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ALPS
01-08-2011, 02:21 PM
Hey Guys!

I did settle on getting an Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch, but i saw some posts on s2ki with people saying the 'Competition Clutch' is good. I'm still very confused on what clutch to get. i want to make sure i get the best suited for me. I do drive harsh and clutch dump here and there. But i do want to have something that's not going to be a B*tch to use in peak hour start-stop traffic. Also, see people replacing fly wheels too. Really confused on this topic and not really happy to buy a clutch/flywheel yet as i'm not comfortable that i'm choosing the right one.

http://www.competitionclutch.com/products/s2000/

Any Help would be appreciated.

trism
01-08-2011, 02:25 PM
you say you do hard clutch dumping, if you have a competition clutch, and you drop it at high revs, theres a chance you could destroy the gearbox. The heavy duty will be fine, and better for daily driving, especially forpeak hour traffic.

ALPS
01-08-2011, 02:34 PM
you say you do hard clutch dumping, if you have a competition clutch, and you drop it at high revs, theres a chance you could destroy the gearbox. The heavy duty will be fine, and better for daily driving, especially forpeak hour traffic.

Makes sense, ok then what about flywheel? also my main concern is my clutch at the moment has a lot of friction in the sense of pushing in and releasing squeeks and growls like metal sound. I've already replaced replaced master cylider and slave cylinder with new OEM and still does it. So i'm assuming it's the clutch itself? the release bearing or thrust bearing i think it's called? i also need someone to trust with the labour work. i dont want to pay Essendon Honda $880 for labour.

trism
01-08-2011, 02:37 PM
could be the release bearing. dunno if s2000 run a spigot bearing or bush, but it could be that, however, shoulda been changed when the clutch was.

AusS2000
01-08-2011, 02:51 PM
You're over thinking this. Just buy the Exedy HD and have it replaced. The kit will come with a new bearing and you can ask the mechanic to grease the fork when he does the job. Also there is a procedure for making sure the push rod on the slave cylinder is not worn or grinding but I'd assume this was replaced when you replaced the slave.

As to flywheels, if your current clutch is not slipping badly chances are that your flywheel is fine. Traditionally you would resurface/machine a flywheel but with the S2000 it is recommended to inspect it and if it's ok, reuse it. If it is cracked or shows hot spots you should replace. As I said, I doubt this is the case with yours.

ALPS
01-08-2011, 03:08 PM
Ok, i just called up these guys: http://www.australianbrakesandclutch.com.au/?page_id=15

Got a quote for 750 on parts and 600 labour. 1350 all up which includes flywheel machine. decent?

ALPS
01-08-2011, 04:50 PM
Got a quote from these guys as well: http://zedzclutchandbrake.com.au/contact

740 for the part and 700 for the labour includes machine of flywheel. i then told him about the quote from the post above and he dropped price for parts to 710 and said to take it to the above to install because it's a bastard to install. and he wont drop the price on labour. hrmm.. 600 is still soo much money to get a clutch installed :(

ludecrs
01-08-2011, 04:55 PM
I have Comp Stage 4 Clutch.
If you're putting around town, its fine, but if you want to shift extremely quick, its not the best option out there. Have a search on s2ki, particularly the FI section to find similarly comments regarding the CC Stage 4 / 5 clutches.

ALPS
01-08-2011, 05:11 PM
I have Comp Stage 4 Clutch.
If you're putting around town, its fine, but if you want to shift extremely quick, its not the best option out there. Have a search on s2ki, particularly the FI section to find similarly comments regarding the CC Stage 4 / 5 clutches.

i just read a thread with the plates snapping on the CC. lol. Exedy HD it is. i think 710 is reasonable considering the lowest i found online is 800, not including shipping. i was thinking upgrade flywheel while i'm at it, which is supposed to help with quickshifting? don't know if it's that much of a difference though, and which flywheel would be good. i want to make sure i do it once and proper. invest money into the cars mechanics before cosmetics

JN7
01-08-2011, 05:41 PM
dude, you're from the northern suburbs right?
call JAK motorworks, Edge motorworks or All Sparks performance.. I got quoted 350-500.

ALPS
01-08-2011, 11:09 PM
dude, you're from the northern suburbs right?
call JAK motorworks, Edge motorworks or All Sparks performance.. I got quoted 350-500.

yeh i am dude. sweet thanks for that. I'll give em a call tomorrow. have you had anywork done from them though?

ALPS
02-08-2011, 11:46 AM
dude, you're from the northern suburbs right?
call JAK motorworks, Edge motorworks or All Sparks performance.. I got quoted 350-500.

Just called up JAK Motorworks, got quoted 550 for labour. i wish it was 350 :(

The guy did seem very cluey though.

AusS2000
02-08-2011, 11:52 AM
You don't want to be paying a guy $350 to change your clutch. If he quotes that much he hasn't done one before, and he will get half way through it and will no longer have your best interests at heart (to put it lightly).

ALPS
02-08-2011, 11:59 AM
You don't want to be paying a guy $350 to change your clutch. If he quotes that much he hasn't done one before, and he will get half way through it and will no longer have your best interests at heart (to put it lightly).

haha that's what i was thinking as well. so i guess 550 is reasonable. the good part is, the guy was fairly confident that he knew how to repair threads as well. so he could do my gearbox fill plug thread as well. just need to save up 1500 to be safe. 710 for clutch he also asked me to get a 'spigot bearing'? 550 for labour and prob couple hundred for clutch fluid / gearbox thread repair and oil. any suggested clutch fluid / gearbox oil?

AusS2000
02-08-2011, 12:09 PM
I had to look up the spigot bearing but it is what I thought. The end of the input shaft of your gearbox goes slightly into the flywheel. There is a bearing/bush in there to eliminate friction when the clutch is disengaged. Older cars had a brass bush but newer cars and the S2000 have a bearing. It's usually fine but if you're going to all the trouble of removing the gearbox it would be wise to replace it at the time.

There are plenty of discussions on transmission oil and many just recommend Honda MTL (or whatever it's called). Personally I use 50/50 Redline MTL/MT90.

Clutch hydraulic fluid is just brake fluid. Use DOT4 or 5.1.

ALPS
02-08-2011, 02:53 PM
I had to look up the spigot bearing but it is what I thought. The end of the input shaft of your gearbox goes slightly into the flywheel. There is a bearing/bush in there to eliminate friction when the clutch is disengaged. Older cars had a brass bush but newer cars and the S2000 have a bearing. It's usually fine but if you're going to all the trouble of removing the gearbox it would be wise to replace it at the time.

There are plenty of discussions on transmission oil and many just recommend Honda MTL (or whatever it's called). Personally I use 50/50 Redline MTL/MT90.

Clutch hydraulic fluid is just brake fluid. Use DOT4 or 5.1.

I'm assuming this guy definately knows what he's on about then hey? knowing what a spigot bearing and all is. Thanks for finding that out and explaining it to me.

All the posts i looked up mentioned that they use GM Synchromesh Friction Modified or Pennzoil Synchromesh. I don't know where i would be able to find it in melb, seems like american only stuff. They also said that the Redline loses it's clarity or whatever within 500 miles. Have you ever tried the Pennzoil or GM stuff if it is available in AUS?

AusS2000
02-08-2011, 02:54 PM
Nope, never used either. Just stick with the Honda stuff.

ALPS
02-08-2011, 02:59 PM
LOL! yer, i think i'll just stick to honda stuff :p unless the mechanic knows about some good stuff.

DLO01
02-08-2011, 05:25 PM
Hey Guys!

I did settle on getting an Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch, but i saw some posts on s2ki with people saying the 'Competition Clutch' is good. I'm still very confused on what clutch to get. i want to make sure i get the best suited for me. I do drive harsh and clutch dump here and there. But i do want to have something that's not going to be a B*tch to use in peak hour start-stop traffic. Also, see people replacing fly wheels too. Really confused on this topic and not really happy to buy a clutch/flywheel yet as i'm not comfortable that i'm choosing the right one.

http://www.competitionclutch.com/products/s2000/

Any Help would be appreciated.

If you want comfort, stick with a full face plate. Don't go to a puck plate. I am sure an Exedy HD will do the job even with the occasional dump of the clutch. Regarding the flywheel. Its common to replace/upgrade to a lighter flywheel at the same time as the clutch as you knock 2 bird off with one stone, you have it all out anyway. Regarding alloy and steel flywheels. If you get a ceramic clutch plate, make sure you get a steel flywheel as the ceramic plate will be too aggressive for a alloy flywheel and will eat in to it.

JN7
02-08-2011, 05:37 PM
This complete clutch kit includes:
* Exedy Pressure Plate
* Exedy Clutch Disc
* Release Bearing (When Applicable)
* Alignment Tool (When Applicable)
* Throwout Bearing (When Applicable)
* Installation Guide (When Applicable)


Do I need anything else to replace my clutch? I called up Supercheap Auto and they have no idea what a spigot bearing is..

DLO01
02-08-2011, 05:58 PM
Ask to speak to someone more knowledgeable at Supercheap as they are wasting your time. Or forget about them all together.

JN7
02-08-2011, 06:08 PM
is there another name for a spigot bearing?

do i need a thrust bearing? i just wanna have everything ready and no dramas when i go for the fitting.

AusS2000
02-08-2011, 07:38 PM
"thrust", "throwout" and "release" bearing is the same thing.

In the service manual the spigot bearing is just referred to as a bearing in the centre of the flywheel. You'll probably have to source from Honda.

JN7
02-08-2011, 07:45 PM
I'm assuming that the ebay joint doesn't know what they're on about if they list this..
"This complete clutch kit includes:
* Exedy Pressure Plate
* Exedy Clutch Disc
* Release Bearing (When Applicable)*
Alignment Tool (When Applicable)
* Throwout Bearing (When Applicable)*
Installation Guide (When Applicable)"

since both of them are the same..


http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/9964/ccdunvgegkkgrhqrlgez58b.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/705/ccdunvgegkkgrhqrlgez58b.jpg/)

that's the picture provided on ebay.. anyone know the parts?

AusS2000
02-08-2011, 07:58 PM
I'm guessing when one is applicable the other ain't.

That said, the O beside the tool looks like a spigot bearing.

JN7
02-08-2011, 08:22 PM
so you reckon.. if i get everything in that picture.. i'm good to for a smooth installation with no dramas?

AusS2000
02-08-2011, 08:26 PM
Yeah, pretty much.

JN7
02-08-2011, 11:06 PM
thanks guru. :P
gonna wait for it and look for labour joints now!

AusS2000
03-08-2011, 12:11 AM
Hmmm, another thought. You have to remove the drive shaft. The bolts that connect it to the diff are soft and easily round out. I had to replace a few of them.

vyets
03-08-2011, 09:10 AM
Hmmm, another thought. You have to remove the drive shaft. The bolts that connect it to the diff are soft and easily round out. I had to replace a few of them.

those allen bolts are the fkn worst! had to dremel half of one of and punch it out, but he won't be doing the install so it's not his problem :)

AusS2000
03-08-2011, 11:31 AM
It is his problem is the install gets held up waiting for new bolts. I always keep spares on hand.

ALPS
03-08-2011, 02:53 PM
Hmmm, another thought. You have to remove the drive shaft. The bolts that connect it to the diff are soft and easily round out. I had to replace a few of them.

this sounds important, any idea what they're actually called and where i can get them?

AusS2000
03-08-2011, 02:57 PM
You can get them from Honda and they are the tailshaft to diff bolts.

vyets
03-08-2011, 03:31 PM
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/6126/p9140534.jpg

Pretty sure this is the ap1 part number, I'll confirm when I get home but this is what it looks like. Got the picture from the net, not my chubby fingers LOL

JN7
03-08-2011, 07:20 PM
Hmmm, another thought. You have to remove the drive shaft. The bolts that connect it to the diff are soft and easily round out. I had to replace a few of them.

How many should I be buying? and do you have any ideas no the cost?
Thanks man. I just wanna be all prepared for the mechanic so there's no wait for parts and what not.

AusS2000
03-08-2011, 07:49 PM
Well there are 6 but I doubt he'd stuff them all. They're about $3-4 each.

ncmx5
03-08-2011, 07:55 PM
you can always get a refund.

JN7
03-08-2011, 08:08 PM
trueeee! but it's $3-4 so all good.. i thought they'd be like overpriced honda prices

JN7
04-08-2011, 12:47 AM
the kit includes: the disc, pressure plate, release bearing and pilot bushings. is that all that's required?
also a suggestion to anyone that gets their clutch changed to replace the rear main seal

ALPS
04-08-2011, 11:53 AM
the kit includes: the disc, pressure plate, release bearing and pilot bushings. is that all that's required?
also a suggestion to anyone that gets their clutch changed to replace the rear main seal

John! i just found out that i actually know the guy at Edge and he told me that you're booked in there for tomorrow. haha. small world