Frankenstien Conversion

[Surrufus]

what do i need to know about making the frankenstein conversion on my lil ek1 civic?

[panda[cRx]]

taken from: http://www.phatwhippincrx.20m.com/custom4.html

"Frankenstein Hybrid Honda Power
VTEC Head Meets LS Block

Text & photos by Gary Castillo

In the world of boxing, the bout between Mike Tyson and Evander Holyfield brought two well-trained fighters with opposing styles into the ring.

Tyson, known as "The Knockout Artist" had the power to drop his opponent in less than two rounds, maybe two seconds, but often does not have the stamina to last 12 rounds.

In the world of Honda performance, this situation is paralleled with the DOHC non-VTEC Integra motor, assuming the role of Tyson and the DOHC VTEC engine portraying Holyfield. The non-VTEC 1.8-liter has brute Tyson-like torque, but lacks the ability to venture forth into the higher reaches of the power band, due to it's unstable valvetrain. The 1.8- and 1.6-liter DOHC VTEC motors have the stamina of Holyfield, climbing long and deep to stratospheric engine speeds, but lacking the torque necessary to fire down the 1320 effectively. If we could apply our hybrid "Tyson-Holyfield" theory to our motor, we would have the best of both worlds--brute torque force and extended high-rev stamina. It exists and it's called the Frankenstein engine.

Frankenstein Facts
The Integra B18A1 and B18B1 engines displace 1834cc and have an 81mm x 89mm bore and stroke configuration. In the case of the two B-series DOHC VTEC engines, the Integra B18C1 (GSR) moves 1797cc with an 81mm x 87.2mm bore and stroke combo and the Del Sol B16A1 combusts 1595cc with an 81mm x 77.4mm bore and stroke. Basically, this shows that the B18A1 in stock trim has 35cc more displacement than the B18C1 and 239cc more than the B16A1! This is the primary reason why the non-VTEC motor exhibits more of the bottom and mid-range torque than each of the VTEC models. Since none of the Honda engines have the sheer volume of V8 iron, the need to extract as many ccs as possible is necessary to create the low-end power needed to propel a vehicle down the quarter-mile effectively.

The Transformation
We happened to stop by Pann Auto Performance in San Diego and visited Carl Batac, the company's resident auto surgeon who was about to perform this miracle surgery by putting a B16A1 head on a B18A1 block. Although our pictures show the transplant taking place off the car, this procedure can be done without removing the motor in cars that are motivated by the B18A powerplant since most of the modifications will be done to the head rather than the block. Naturally, this comes in handy if you ever have the urge to return to "blandness" and reinstall a non-VTEC head.

Since this particular transplant is going the all-motor route, Carl decided to replace the 9.2:1 pistons with the 10.0:1 compression GS-R factory slugs. One point that should be taken into consideration is that the VTEC piston will fit in the non-VTEC block and this will create more torque to get you down the 1320. The 10.0:1 GS-R piston is a great street replacement piston however for a race application we would suggest either trying the B16A 10.5:1, B16B 10.6:1 or B18C5 10.8:1 piston to increase the torque for a race motor.

The tools required for the modification are: 1/8-inch tap and driver, 9/16-inch drill bit, 10mm hex wrench, 24mm socket with ratchet and wrenches for AN fittings. The parts you will need to scrounge up include: 1/8-inch NPT T (two female sides and one male side), 1/8-inch brass plug, 1/8-inch male NPT to 4AN male, 3/8 NPT male to 4AN male, no less than 18 inches of four steel-braided hoses with 4AN female sides and the necessary electrical wire for activating VTEC (this depends on the year of the vehicle and your application.)

Conclusion
Horsepower, torque and rpm are the keys to molding our Frankenstein motor. We extracted our torque from the LS, pulled out the rpm from the VTEC and horsepower came from the combination of the two. People say, "You can talk the talk, but can you walk the walk." so with the Dynojet as our referee the proof is now on paper. Frankenstein lives.


The Honda factory parts that you need include the head gasket, LS timing belt, VTEC head bolts (most preferably the B18C bolts), the correct VTEC intake manifold for your head, and of course the VTEC head of your choice (B16, B17, B18C).
To bolt the head onto the block the dowel pin holes on the opposite aide of the head have to be widened so the dowels can be moved (see arrow). This makes it possible to line up on the LS block. Send the to a machine shop to have the head drilled for the dowel pins or use a 9/16-inch drill bit if downtime is a concern.

With the head off the vehicle, tap the VTEC oil supply hole located near the corner of the number four cylinder intake side (arrow). An 1/8-inch brass plug will fit firm to assure that no oil can squeeze between it. Once the plug is in place, it may be necessary to resurface the head if the plug protrudes out of the head's deck surface. PIN LOCATOR
Year VTEC VTEC Pressure
1988-91 A-8 B-5
1992-95 A-4 D-6
1996-00 A-8 C-15

To wire up the VTEC pressure switch and solenoid to the ECU, you need to know the year of the ECU and apply this info to the chart above to determine the proper pin location.
Dyno (1)
This dyno graph charts the power of a conventional LS engine (blue) and a VTEC Frankenstein engine. The dramatic jump in performance is easy to spot at 5300 rpm where the VTEC effect kicks in. Both engines were outfitted with an intake, exhaust, header and cam, gears.

It is best for the oil fitting for the VTEC oil pressure line to be tapped off of the 3/8-inch plugon the distributor side of the head (arrow). The 1/8-inch plug will work as well; either one will access the main VTEC oil supply system.
With the head off the vehicle, tap the VTEC oil supply hole located near the corner of the number four cylinder intake side (arrow). An 1/8-inch brass plug will fit firmly to ensure that no oil will leak. Once the plug is in place, it may be necessary to resurface the head if the plug protrudes out of the head's deck surface.

It is best for the oil fitting for the VTEC oil pressure line to be tapped off of the 3/8-inch plug on the distributor side of the head (arrow). The 1/8-inch plug will work as well; either one will access the main VTEC oil supply system. The 3/8-inch plug will make it easier to remove the head in the future. Use a 4AN male to 3/8 NPT (arrow) to replace the original factory plug. This will be your new VTEC oil supply into the head.
Dyno (2)
Here we see turbocharged variants of the same combination. At 10 psi of boost the VTEC-headed Integra LS engine generated 58 horsepower more than that the same block running a LS head.

With the new 4AN fitting in place run a steel-braided line (arrow) no shorter than 18-inches from the head to the back of the block.
With the original VTEC oil pressure source tapped and plugged, run the new VTEC oil feed off of the factory oil sending unit on the back of the engine block. This is located on the right hand side of the oil filter and has one wire connected to the oil pressure sensor. An 1/8inch brass T with one male side and two female sides will give access to the oil source. A 4AN male to 1/8inch NPT male fitting is used to transfer the oil from the head to the block. Use the steel braided line from the 4AN fitting off the head to connect the oil to the block.
On the top left corner of Gasket B you will notice an extra hole on the VTEC head gasket that was for the original VTEC oil supply from the block. The head gasket you will use is the LS model.






LS block awaiting a VTEC head... My personal take on LS/VTEC...
Quite frankly, I am both impressed and in awe of this motor set up. A high revving torquey B series motor? Easily capable of all motor 12s?! Sign me the hell up!

I've seen a turbo integra built LS/VTEC setup before...... 18lbs of boost running mid 11s on Slicks and race gas.......

But In all honesty....... the idea of reliability comes into play. I'd rather have a relaible B16 that runs 13s, than a 12second LS/VTEC that threw more fits than a 3 year old kid...

And this quote right here does it...

"this guy nailed it on the head. i was going to write up something discouraging using an ls/vtec motor and post it on sho... but this guy's said more than i ever could. the ls/vtec, in my mind, is a piece of shit. i've had one... and now i want a b16 because i've ridden in a car now with a b16 and a host of skunk 2 parts. believe me... if you do your b16 right and choose your parts correctly you're better off... **** the ls/vtec."
-5gencivic

5gen had a 12sec. LS/VTEC setup himself, and even HE discourages it. That says ALOT coming from someone who pured their blood, sweat, and tears (not to mention alot of money) into their car... only to discourage others from doing the same.

Makes ya think don't it?

[panda[cRx]]

PART 2 from same site
"Why I Dislike LS/VTEC


If it was all that great, Honda would have done it in the first place. Submitted for your approval, my thesis on why LS/VTEC is a bad idea.

What is LS/VTEC?
Why would Honda do that?
What is R/S?
Why a low R/S is bad for reliability
What is power, exactly, and how do Hondas make it?
B Series, by the numbers
How VTEC works, and why it lives at high RPMs
Why it doesn't all fit together


What is LS/VTEC?


A quick tutorial for anyone who doesn't already know.

LS/VTEC is using a B18A or B18B block (referred to as an LS block, even though it was found in the RS, LS, and GS) and mating it with any of the DOHC VTEC heads- the B16A, B17A, or B18C. The principle is to use the larger displacement of the LS block (READ: higher torque) and mate it with the high end power of VTEC. I'm also sure you've heard of CR-VTEC, which is a very similar idea. It uses the B20Z block of the CR-V (NOT the B20A of the Prelude Si, for reasons that will become obvious later) to achieve the same effect, only on a grander scale. What you end up with is an engine commonly referred to as a "Frankenstein" setup, and it's all the rage these days.


Why would Honda do that?


So why in the world would Honda put us in such a situation- having to build these incredible motors all by ourselves? Why would they knowingly decrease displacement and torque in a car being manufactured to be faster than its lower-trimmed breathen?

Look at it, too, from a manufacturing standpoint- Honda is already making the higher displacement B18A and B blocks (blocks are identical, only difference was in the head), so why go to the extra time and expense of developing and manufacturing a separate block, especially if it will decrease output?

The answer is easy: R/S.


What is R/S?


R/S is the abbreviation for rod to stroke ratio. It is the ratio of the length of the connecting rod to the length of the piston stroke, or the distance the piston travels from the top to the bottom of its stroke. As the ratio gets lower, the amount of stress on engine internals increases exponentially, killing long-term reliability. The higher the number is, the slower the piston is traveling, killing power output.

The ideal R/S is 1.75:1 (Three cheers for the B16A, at a near-perfect 1.74:1!).


Why a low R/S is bad for reliability


A low R/S means the rod will be closer to a horizontal angle on its upstroke. This means that more of its force will be pushing the piston horizontally, rather than vertically. What does this mean for your engine? Two things.

1. There will be more stress on the sides and in the center of the rod, rather than on its ends, leaving the rod more vulnerable to breaking. Picture a straw. This is no special straw, just an ordinary drinking straw. Is it going to be easier to bend this straw by applying pressure onto its ends, or at its center? Now think of your poor connecting rods.

2. There will be more stress on your cylinder walls. Once again, the rod is pushing the piston at a more horizontal angle- right into your cylinder walls, rather than up and through them. The risk here is double: A. Putting that piston right through the cylinder wall. B. The cylinder wall will actually flex under the pressure, causing the shape to turn from a circle to an oval or oblong shape. This causes the loss of the seal created by the piston rings. What happens? A small amount of oil could slip past into the combustion chamber. Bad things happen from here: The oil gets combusted, leaving nasty carbon deposits in your combustion chamber and exhaust ports- not a good thing for flow or valve sealing.

It's also important to note that as the RPMs increase, so does the amount of stress on your engine's internals.


What is power, exactly, and how do Hondas make it?

Warning: Once you see this, you will never look at horsepower and torque readings the same again, especially after you think about it.

P= (TR)/5252

P= power, in horsepower
T= torque, measured in lb/ft
R= Engine speed, in RPMs

Therefore:

Horsepower= (torque x RPMs) / 5252

Try it- pull out a dyno and see what you get.

So from this, we can conclude that if we increase torque or engine speed, we will get more power, right?

Remember that, it's important...

Now how do Hondas make power? Our tiny little 1.6-1.8L engines aren't exactly oozing spare displacement and creating gobs of torque, are they? Hondas make power through revving, and revving high. So why does everyone place so much emphasis on creating torque? It's because all these bolt-ons you see advertised won't raise your redline, but they will increase torque. There's nothing wrong with squeezing every last ounce of torque out of your engine- you should. But trying to get torque from more displacement in a Honda is like trying to fill a swimming pool using a squirt gun. You'll never get enough for it to be useful.


B Series, by the numbers


Let's take a closer look at the B series engine blocks.

In the B18 blocks, Honda increases displacement by using a larger crank and increasing stroke (the B20Z also has a slightly larger bore, which is bad for reasons I won't go into here). This, of course, lowers the R/S, since the rod length remains (almost) the same.

B16A:
Rod length: 134 mm
Stroke: 77 mm
R/S: 1.74:1
Displacement: 1587.12 cc

B17A:
rod length: 131.87 mm
Stroke: 81.4 mm
R/S: 1.62:1
Displacement: 1677.81 cc

B18A-B:
Rod length: 137mm
Stroke: 89mm
R/S: 1.54:1
Displacement: 1834.47 cc

B18C:
Rod length: 137.9 mm
Stroke: 87.2 mm
R/S: 1.58:1
Displacement: 1797.36 cc

B20A (Older Prelude Si)
Rod length: 141.7-142.75 mm
Stroke: 95 mm
R/S: 1.49-1.50:1
Displacement: 1958.14-2056.03 cc

Now you see two things: Why Honda decreased the displacement from the B18A-B to the B18C, and why the B20A is widely regarded as a not-so-great engine. Honda decreased the displacement in the B18C by decreasing the stroke, improving the R/S. This allows the B18C to rev higher, and (Hey!) increase output.

Making sense? I bet you can see where this is going. But wait, there's plenty more...


How VTEC works, and why it lives at high RPMs


A quick crash course for anyone unfamiliar with VTEC:

VTEC stands for Variable Valve Timing and Electronic Lift Control. The premise is that at low RPMs and at idle, a less aggressive cam grind is necessary to prevent "loping." Ever hear a pro drag car staging up at the gates? Sounds like it's about to stall. It's because he's running aggressive camshafts, and since the cam is spinning more slowly at idle, the intake valve is still open after combustion has completed. That's what causes loping. At higher RPMs, a more aggressive grind is desirable. The idea is that you want to cram as much air and fuel mixture (A/F) into that combustion chamber as possible, so that when it's ignited you get as grandiose an explosion as possible. So what is good at low RPMs is bad for high RPMs. So what do you do?

If you're Honda, you invent VTEC. What VTEC does is simply to employ different cam grinds at different RPMs. A less aggressive grind at low RPMs for a smooth idle and low to mid range power, and a more aggressive grind up high to produce that high end pop. At a strategically placed "VTEC crossover point," the camshaft switches grind from the less aggressive to the more aggressive.

What determines this point? Hours and hours dyno testing and tuning. If it is set too low, the more aggressive grind will kick in early, bogging down the engine (think "loping" at 3500 RPM). Too high, and the engine is missing out on valuable time it could be spending with the VTEC engaged. So all those fools who spent on a VTEC timer running stock camshafts just so they could get their VTEC to kick in earlier- they're idiots. They just cost themselves a ton of midrange power. The stock crossover point is optimized for stock camshafts.

So when is a VTEC timer necessary? Easy- when you're no longer running stock camshafts.

If you want big power all motor, you go with one of the big players in the cam game- Toda Spec B and C, or Jun Stage 2 and 3, and you accept no substitutes. All (or at least 95%) of the 225+ all motor whp B18s are running these camshafts.

How does this relate to VTEC crossover point? Well, the VTEC grinds on these cams are so aggressive, that the VTEC point needs to be moved up- way up- usually to 6500-7000 RPM. These cams will also make power to 9500+ RPM (READ: Built motor). Run these in conjunction with high compression pistons (at least 10.5:1), and you'll have yourself an all motor wonder. And this, friends, is where torque in Hondas comes from.

Why it doesn't all fit together
So here's what we've learned:


The LS/VTEC suffers from a bad R/S, due to the fact that it utilizes an LS block with a R/S of 1.54:1.
A bad R/S is bad for the engine, especially at high RPMs
Hondas make power through revving, and high power through revving higher, high compression, and aggressive camshafts

Because of its R/S ratio, it is not recommended that you rev an LS/VTEC past 6750 RPM on stock internals- the redline of a stock B18A-B. With a fairly built bottom end, it is still not recommended that you rev an LS/VTEC past 7800 RPM.

As we just discussed, in order to get any considerable power out of an engine, aggressive camshafts are a must. In order to get any benefit from aggressive camshafts, the ability to rev the engine high is a necessity. What good is VTEC if you can only use it for the top 1000 RPM of your powerband?

LS/VTEC is a fad, and I predict that it will be all but a pleasant memory in a few short years. As soon as kids start snapping rods and putting pistons through cylider walls, they'll realize how important good engine geometry is. Add that to the fact that they're running stock cams (because it's all their engine can safely handle) and getting burned by kids running Todas, or Juns, and they'll wish they had just stuck with their trusty B18C. Like I said, if it was all that great, Honda would have done it in the first place."

[EK9]

damn, that was one very interesting read... very informative!!!

these kinda articles should be put in the tech section!

actually, i'm moving this to tech... it's not specific to civic. if u want it moved back, pm me or another mod

*moved*

[Surrufus]

so a cr-v (b20z) block and a b16a head will fit together and work rite?
any1 know?
and does any1 know how i fit that kinda setup into my civic?

[SHWCARCIVIC]

Has anybody got any more info on this "Frankenstein" set up, any more threads, links, photos and so forth. If you could please post them up.

Surrufus- Have you completed this conversion or have any further information regarding the "Frankenstein" conversion???

[Surrufus]

nah sorry mate i have not completed the conversion
im still in the research stage and looking for other conversions to go with it such as a brake upgrade
with increased power u need increased stopping
im also looking at alternatives such as a turbo setup

[raff]

a bloke i know down here slammedEKcivic had an EK with frankenstein conversion turboed! b20/b16ahead turboed! it was a rocket! but i think in the latter stages of its life reliability did come into play.

[BLKCRX]

B20 Vtec Conversions are great ways to make more power from you b16 if you have one.

Swap in a B20 bottom end, weld the head, modifications were required and say hello to Torque, the only down side the b20 bottom end has over the b18 bottom end is you can’t rev them high, unless you fully build the bottom end to rev. ie rods pistons sleeves and special bearings, iv built and tuned along with Adrian from RazzTech hand fulls of b20 vtec conversion now, both in stock and highly modified form, there a great option if you want to stay NA, or even turbo the conversion down the track.



Regards James

[SHWCARCIVIC]

Im actually in the process of rebuilding my engine, I have a B20A block and a B16A head arriving this week, im replacing the rods and pistons and it will be turbocharged. Everything else has been upgraded. The only thing I need more info on is the mod required for the oil galleries that run to the head, it only minor/simple mod but I havent come acroos alot of info on it.

[DynoDave]

Im actually in the process of rebuilding my engine, I have a B20A block and a B16A head arriving this week, im replacing the rods and pistons and it will be turbocharged. Everything else has been upgraded. The only thing I need more info on is the mod required for the oil galleries that run to the head, it only minor/simple mod but I havent come acroos alot of info on it.
Check that you can use that block first before you go to far as I have never heard of anyone using a B20A bottom end before to do a conversion like this.
Regards Dyno Dave

[sivic]

a guy here in WA is using as B20A block. not sure if anything extra was required over the B20Z though

[tinkerbell]

Has anybody got any more info on this "Frankenstein" set up, any more threads, links, photos and so forth. If you could please post them up.


www.google.com

[tinkerbell]

a guy here in WA is using as B20A block. not sure if anything extra was required over the B20Z though

i hope you are thinking of the B20B - not the B20A out of the 88 Prelude.

there is no way to fit the VTEC head to a B20A...

[ProECU]

B20A is not compatible. Its the B-series Blacksheep. B-series parts are not interchangeable with this motor.

I dont even think the Bores of this block line up to the head, and the bolt pattern is different also

[Chi]

Interesting, B18A has a bigger stroke size than teh B18C.

I woulda thought the LS VTEC would be a better choice compared to GSR/VTiR block.

hmmm

Good info there.

[ProECU]

yes, definately

the B18A/B and B20 share the same crank & block/deck height.

Only difference is cylinder bore size 81mm vs 84mm

[sivic]

i hope you are thinking of the B20B - not the B20A out of the 88 Prelude.

there is no way to fit the VTEC head to a B20A...

yep, my bad:o

[SHWCARCIVIC]

Check that you can use that block first before you go to far as I have never heard of anyone using a B20A bottom end before to do a conversion like this.
Regards Dyno Dave

All the people I've spoken to have said the B20A has been used alot and is fine but not as strong as the B18. The only mod that is required is the oil gallery for the head. The 1.8l gear box, B16A head bolt straight onto the B20A block and nothing else is required. We'll soon find out.

[tinkerbell]

All the people I've spoken to have said the B20A has been used alot and is fine but not as strong as the B18. The only mod that is required is the oil gallery for the head. The 1.8l gear box, B16A head bolt straight onto the B20A block and nothing else is required. We'll soon find out.

maybe you need to do some severe reality checks with "the people you have been speaking to"....

[DynoDave]

maybe you need to do some severe reality checks with "the people you have been speaking to"....
Dave I have given up trying to help some of these people as they just read BULLSHIT and listen to people that have no idea.
Regards Dyno Dave

[tinkerbell]

*sigh*

yeah, i know...

[DynoDave]

*sigh*

yeah, i know...
Yep you have to love the internet 1% truth and 99% BULLSHIT.
Regards Dyno Dave

[SHWCARCIVIC]

Dave I have given up trying to help some of these people as they just read BULLSHIT and listen to people that have no idea.
Regards Dyno Dave

How do you know these people I've spoken to know nothing about it ????

If you know of anyone that has had experience with this conversion please PM me their contact number and I'll be more than happy to give them a call to gather more info/research.

[tinkerbell]

How do you know these people I've spoken to know nothing about it ????

If you know of anyone that has had experience with this conversion please PM me their contact number and I'll be more than happy to give them a call to gather more info/research.

mate - if you hadnt farkin noticed - I have had experience with this conversion.

we are giving you info, you just aint listening.

so you LOSE.

sorry, life's tough eh?

[SHWCARCIVIC]

Faaark relax maaaaate, count to 10 and breathe...I havnt lost anything and life is cruruuuuzy maybe a different story for you though.

I am listening, like you's said theres alot of people saying alot of different things thats reason im still gathering info on this conversion, they maybe wrong and you maybe right, I dont know that the reason why I'm on hear asking and trying to find out as much hard facts as possible.

[tinkerbell]

OK then, use the search feature to look for you "hard facts" and you will look lots like of a dick than you currently are appearing to be (ie you are disagreeing with 3 of the most experiecend Honda guys i know)

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/search.php?

even www.google.com is good for B20VTEC "hard facts"

once you establish what you are going on about, come back with some specific questions...

this is pretty much standard proceedure. stick to it.

[Kawasaki]

How much would a standard b20vtec swap into an EG civic cost just out of interest?

Cheers

[tinkerbell]

/unsubscribes from thread

[DynoDave]

How much would a standard b20vtec swap into an EG civic cost just out of interest?

Cheers
It just depends on what you want to do I have put some together for $5000 and am doing one soon that will go over $18,000 it just depends on what you want and how much money there is to play with as to how much power you get.Give Tinkerbell a PM he did a great job with his first CRV/Vtec setup and it is still going very strong after 3-4 years of everyday use and makes within 5hp of itself every time it was put on the dyno.
Regards Dyno Dave

[SHWCARCIVIC]

tinkerbell I have used search, google and a few other sites as well and I have found lots of helpfull information-thankyou

Im not disagreeing with anyone I posted up some info regarding the B20A, and if it was possible to be used in this "frankenstein" conversion, everyone seems to want to bite your head off.

My specific question was regarding the oil gallery's, the mod required to supply oil to the head???

[Kawasaki]

It just depends on what you want to do I have put some together for $5000 and am doing one soon that will go over $18,000 it just depends on what you want and how much money there is to play with as to how much power you get.Give Tinkerbell a PM he did a great job with his first CRV/Vtec setup and it is still going very strong after 3-4 years of everyday use and makes within 5hp of itself every time it was put on the dyno.
Regards Dyno Dave

mm true that. Im thinking basically the "stage one" b20vtec, mostly stock parts, but 5000 seems to be a very good price. Time to do some research and i will keep in mind to pm tinkerbell, always good to talk to someone with experience :D.

Cheers:thumbsup:

[DynoDave]

tinkerbell I have used search, google and a few other sites as well and I have found lots of helpfull information-thankyou

Im not disagreeing with anyone I posted up some info regarding the B20A, and if it was possible to be used in this "frankenstein" conversion, everyone seems to want to bite your head off.

My specific question was regarding the oil gallery's, the mod required to supply oil to the head???
If you read my first post I did not bite your head off I just said to do more research as I had never heard of anyone doing the conversion with that bottom end and was sure it could not be done.
Regards Dyno Dave

[SHWCARCIVIC]

If you read my first post I did not bite your head off I just said to do more research as I had never heard of anyone doing the conversion with that bottom end and was sure it could not be done.
Regards Dyno Dave

Believe it or not but I do understand what you said, and I know that you and tinkerbell are the best people to be talking to about this (I have read other threads and posts thats use have posted in).
But up until your replies to Kawasaki I didnt know that you've actually performed and attempted this conversion. I didnt know the extent of your "experience" if I had I would have asked different questions like: Which block is best for this conversion??? Is it worth spending the extra $$$ and having the blocked re-sleeved if this conversion was to be turboed??? Which path would you recommend I take with mods to the whole conversion???

Edit: Just finished speaking to people supplying the block and yes the block that is being sent up to me is a B20B block (CRV) not a B20A block (Prelude) he gave me the wrong block type.