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ECU-MAN
12-02-2005, 10:25 PM
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!


Aim: To Adjust Valve clearances on Honda Engines
Required:
10mm ring spanner
flat blade screw driver
3\8 ratchet
3\8 bar
10mm 3\8 socket
17mm 1\2" socket
1\2" braker bar
1\2" bar
spark plug socket ( optional )
Ultra Grey
feeler gauge
touque wrench
some mechanical knowledge

just some advice before we get started

if you dont understand what I have written below. DONT TRY THIS
if you dont have the correct tools DONT TRY THIS
if you dont have the correct specs for your valve clearences DONT TRY THIS
if you dont read the entire post, and dont know how to adjust tappets DONT TRY THIS
if your not confident DONT TRY THIS
if your engine is not stone cold DONT TRY THIS

Make sure you have the correct valve clearences specs for your engine. pay special not to the difference in the inlet and exhaust clearances, dont mix them up.

your engine MUST be Cold




STEP 1

http://ecu-man.com/automotive/honda/diy/tappets/042.jpg

remove the rocca cover by undoing the 5 bolts shown above in red. unplug the leads and PVC tube, shown in green. (optional) undo the spark plugs, help when you turn the engine round


STEP 2

http://ecu-man.com/automotive/honda/diy/tappets/043.jpg


remove the cambelt cover, undo the two 10mm bolts shown in red, remove cambelt top cover


STEP 3



http://ecu-man.com/automotive/honda/diy/tappets/070.jpg



put a 17mm socket on a long 1\2" bar and connect it to a breaker bar and place it on the harmonic balancer bolt. ( you can go through the cover, you dont need to remove it like I did ) you can jack up the front of the car if you want and remove the wheel, make sure you use jack stands. But you can do this with the car on the ground and turn the wheel full lock to the left.

Step 4

http://ecu-man.com/automotive/honda/diy/tappets/064.jpg

turn the engine over from the breaker bar counter clockwise till you see the UP on the cam sprocket pointing up and use the markings on the harmonic balancer and cover to line up #1 cyl TDC. Note the position of the cam sprocket, you will see the markings on the sprocket will line up with the flat surface of the head. see yellow boxes above.

STEP 5

http://ecu-man.com/automotive/honda/diy/tappets/071.jpg


CYL # 1 is TDC ( top dead center ) red section, you can grab the top of the tappet and lift up/down to confirm, it should move up/down slightly.

place the correct feeler gauge for your engine specs between the valve and tappet.

- push/pull a few times to get the feal of the clearance.
- it should feal snug, not to tight and not to loose.
- if its tight back it off, if its loose, tighten it up to do so

- place a 10mm ring spanner, feeler gauge, and flat blade screw driver on the exhaust tappet. see below picture

http://ecu-man.com/automotive/honda/diy/tappets/067.jpg

crack the 10mm nut to loosen it, only enough to be able to tuen the screw. turn your screwdriver counter clockwise to loosen the valve clearance, turn it clock wise to tighten the valve clearance.

Make an adjustment and hold your screw driver firm so it wont move, and nip up (not tight but tight enough to stop everything from moving ) the 10mm nut.check your clearance, do this repetivly until you have reached the desierd clearance. you may go to tight or not enough, may take 10 attempts, but as you get better at it you get it in 3 or less. When you got your final clearance put your spanner on the nut and screw driver on the screw. hold the screw driver firm and tighten the nut. do not over tighten as you will snap it. to not leave it loose as you will cause all sorts of problems. then check 1 last time the valve clearance then move to the next exhaust valve. do the same as above.

see this example video (http://tech.ozhonda.com/diy/tappets/Tappets.wmv)

then do the inlet tappets ( note they will have different clearances )

I always check the 4 tappet nuts and for that cylinder to ensure there tight then 1 final check of the valve clearance then move on to the next cylinder.

turn the crank shaft 180 degrees counter clockwise
the cam sprocket should line up like this ( look for the markings on the sprocket )

http://ecu-man.com/automotive/honda/diy/tappets/068.jpg


- you must now adjust cylinder # 3 ( green box ) inlet and exhaust
- turn the crank shaft 180 degrees counter clockwise hamonic balancer should be on TDC mark, this makes Cylinder 4 TDC
- you must now adjust cylinder # 4 ( blue box ) inlet and exhaust
- turn the crank shaft 180 degrees counter clockwise
the cam sprocket should line up like it did for Cyl # 3 in photo above ( look for the markings on the sprocket )
- you must now adjust cylinder # 2 ( yellow box ) inlet and exhaust

thats if for the tappets. now put it all back together.

- put the top cam cover back on and tighten the 2 bolts.
- clean the head surface where the rocca cover gasket will sit
- clean the rocca cover gasket on the rocca cover
- apply ultra grey to the gasket as shown below in the yellow boxes

http://ecu-man.com/automotive/honda/diy/tappets/074.jpg


- refit your rocca cover, torque it down to manufactuters specs. tighten bolts in a criss cross pattern.

tighten up spark plugs if you loosend them.

DO NOT forget to remove your socket/breaker bar from the harmonic balancer, I have seen mechanics forget this there and start the engine. the bar goes round and round and rips the fron gaurd open like a can of sardines :)

I welcome any questions positive or negative feedback any pointers of anything I may have left out. ( this makes sense to me, but yall may not understand it )

also you may note I removed a few extra parts than nessesary as I also did a timing belt on tis thing


Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own

ProECU
13-02-2005, 07:57 AM
nice work master!

here's the workshop manual version for those interested

http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/CivicManual/pdf/6-14.pdf

Enjoy

wynode
13-02-2005, 05:23 PM
Nice write up John!

Just a Question about bringing the next cylinder to TDC. In the post that ProECU made, it says turn the crank pulley 180 degrees (or cam pulley 90 degrees) ?

ECU-MAN
13-02-2005, 08:30 PM
yep your right I messed up

EDITED :)

wynode
13-02-2005, 09:42 PM
yep your right I messed up

EDITED :)
hehe sorry to be a pain john.......but it says crank 90 degrees where as it should mean crank 180 degrees or cam pulley 90 degrees ?

ECU-MAN
13-02-2005, 09:46 PM
yes your right cam 90 crank 180

I ll fix again

ps I failed Maths.

disclaimers are my freind :)

wynode
13-02-2005, 10:04 PM
yes your right cam 90 crank 180

I ll fix again

ps I failed Maths.

disclaimers are my freind :)

hehe all good......just as long as we are keeping each other in check! :thumbsup:

wynode
15-02-2005, 10:02 PM
Just uploaded that Tappet Vid to the Ozhonda server and updated your link John :)

michael_antoi
14-09-2005, 11:30 PM
noob here; can i ask wat the purpose of this DIY is?

ECU-MAN
14-09-2005, 11:36 PM
tappet adjustment

should be done every 20 000kms on hondas

**Ghost**
15-09-2005, 01:38 AM
how much does cam timing go off without tappets adjustment

h22a accord
15-09-2005, 07:37 AM
Nice write up! i used to to my own tappet adjustment on my old mini but I think i'll pass on my honda..i dont want to break it lol.

Who wants to adjust my tappets for me?

egSi
15-09-2005, 08:44 AM
now thats ****, this is something i need to do, thanks so much man, ill do my own now, ur the king!! :D

ECU-MAN
15-09-2005, 07:57 PM
how much does cam timing go off without tappets adjustment

shouldnt make any difference,

the question is

how much does cam timing go off without valves bending

**Ghost**
15-09-2005, 08:24 PM
shouldnt make any difference,

the question is

how much does cam timing go off without valves bending

i get ur point

* goes to get tappets adjusted**

Eclipsor
27-09-2005, 05:22 PM
Quick question. I have a workshop manual for the 92-96 usdm prelude with a h22a1. Just wondering if anyone knows if the valve clearances will be the same for my jdm h22a?

Also, just got home from repco where I got some liquid gasket. Got some Loctite blue maxx silicone. I couldn't really tell the difference between this and the grey stuff of the same brand. I see you used Ultra Grey. Will the stuff I got do the trick?

ECU-MAN
27-09-2005, 10:43 PM
hmm not sure man,

my AUDM specs say

H22A1

I .15 - .19mm
E .17 - .21 mm


stone cold. I say you will be fine as I have notice most jdm tappets specs are the same as audm

loctite is good stuff, as long as it is sensor safe you will be ok.

Eclipsor
27-09-2005, 11:08 PM
Ok thanks. I will give it a go

Limbo
24-12-2005, 08:04 AM
**** i've never done mine. Is it the same for B series engine?

ECU-MAN
24-12-2005, 10:33 PM
sure is dude

this method is how all Honda engines with tappets are done. from civic to NSX.

except 2.5l and 2.7l C series legend engines. they have Hydraulic lifters, but on the exhaust valve train they have tappet type set up which is adjusted differntly.

turtleEK1
11-02-2006, 01:39 PM
just did my tappets today... weren't out too much, but stuffed around with them to get the feeling of how to set them. thanks again john! the way you explained it made it easy as!

BiGANG
13-02-2006, 10:34 AM
I havent done my tappets yet on my integra but have done them a few times on the CRX i used to have. I was told to only do them when they start to get a bit noisy. A if it aint broke dont fix it approach. Is this right or should i still be checking them?

ECU-MAN
13-02-2006, 08:32 PM
no thats wrong for a honda

do them every 20000kms

mj3610
25-09-2006, 09:37 AM
I was told to only do them when they start to get a bit noisy. A if it aint broke dont fix it approach. Is this right or should i still be checking them?
bringing back thread,
the reason some might say this is because if your head gaskets have gone hard then they might need changing as well because u took the cover off.

dudeling7
25-09-2006, 03:57 PM
i did this over the weekend on my teg....was quite easy actually! and the noise has totally gone! car exhaust note sound better too! :)

jsut wondering though, what is the right amound of drag to have on the feeler gauge to gauge that its tight?

when i did it i made sure it was tight enough to grab fairly hard on the feeler gauge so that it needed some force to pull out/.

destrukshn
25-09-2006, 04:25 PM
i think that's a bit too hard.

dudeling7
25-09-2006, 04:28 PM
this was not for the lower setting but the middle

say intake for my car is 0.003-0.005" so i did it to 0.004 tight

and checked so that 0.003 still slid in easily.

ECU-MAN
25-09-2006, 08:55 PM
sounds good,



I aim to make the guage slide out with a bit of resistance, but not to much.

SPEEDCORE
29-09-2006, 11:16 PM
the reason some might say this is because if your head gaskets have gone hard then they might need changing as well because u took the cover off.

Come again now?? :confused:

mj3610
30-09-2006, 02:53 PM
Come again now?? :confused:
im no mechanical engineer but as far as i've been told, when you take the rocker cover off if your gaskets have hardened then its risky to put the cover back on without changing the gaskets cause it might start leaking. heat has bonded it together from before and when its hard and u take it off then it wont bond anymore, someone with abit more knowledge care to elaborate? i've asked 2 diff mechanics and they've both said the same thing.
i only know this cause i asked the mechanic to do a tappet adjustment and he told me dont need to do it if its not noisy, due to the above reason.

SPEEDCORE
01-10-2006, 10:23 AM
You mentioned headgasket before..... your getting confused between a rocker cover gasket and a headgasket. ;)

Headgasket you don't need to change for a tappet/valve lash adjustment as the head does not come off to do this. The rocker cover gasket may need to be replaced dependant on the condition.

n/a
17-10-2006, 02:25 AM
**** i've never done mine. Is it the same for B series engine?

not 100% sure, but ECU-MAN your write up was for a SOHC motor, i believe it's done differently with DOHC motors.

SOHC adjustment – you check lash between bottom of adjusting screw and top of valve.
DOHC adjustment - you check lash between rocker arm and camshaft lobe.

ECU-MAN
17-10-2006, 09:12 PM
yes soem engines you check it at the camshaft and other engines at the valve.

its pretty obvious when you loook at them where you adjust it so I never pay attention to where it is.

also the specs tell you where just in case.

dynosaur
20-10-2006, 04:45 PM
Nice work john ,

all the info's which u r gaven r very clear ,

l just done the tappet adjustment last Saturday........

This DIY article really save my buckz....

Thank you john :)

ECU-MAN
20-10-2006, 09:08 PM
no probs dude,


glad it helped

buneyha
07-11-2006, 02:02 PM
my engine's been loud for so many months! nobody told me I need to do a tappet adjustment until a few days ago I did some research and found out that if I adjust the clearance of my valves it should be more quite. then again if I don't my engine will f*ck up. Anyway I'm preparing all my tools to do this so I'm just checking on the manual 91 crx clearance is:

Intake feeler gauge specs: .006-.007 in
Exhaust feeler gauge specs: .007-.008 in

is this the same for b16?

and what is that thing about the harmonic balancer bolt, is it necessary for DOHC?

ECU-MAN
07-11-2006, 08:21 PM
Inlet 0.15 - 0.19mm Exhaust 0.17 - 0.21mm
at camshaft


I dont know what you mean about the harmonic balancer bolt.

buneyha
07-11-2006, 08:34 PM
connect it to a breaker bar and place it on the harmonic balancer bolt.

so far I think I got an idea of how to do it on a b16,
will try it this weekend

o btw, ultra grey is now called grey max or something like that

ECU-MAN
07-11-2006, 10:11 PM
you do it the same way as in the photo.

makes no difference if its B16A, D16Y, or F20C,

all the same.


I use Permatex untra grey

only $10 a tube. good stuff

mocchi
03-03-2007, 07:54 AM
would i need a new valve cover gasket or i can just use ultra grey on it? surrounding all the lining?

also the valve clearance of USDM cars would it be the same like AUDM?
its for eg4 hb, d15b7

it says on the USDM manual
In : 0.18mm-0.22mm (0.007"-0.009")
Ex : 0.23mm-0.27mm (0.009"-0.011")

thanks

SLPJCooL
03-03-2007, 10:22 AM
would i need a new valve cover gasket or i can just use ultra grey on it? surrounding all the lining?


As long as the Gasket is not cracked for f**ked up, then Ultra Grey is your best friend.
lost count on the number of times I've taken on valve cover out, yet still using the same gasket. But if you're overly cautious, then buy a new one, it's not expensive.

ECU-MAN
03-03-2007, 03:59 PM
yeah as above,

http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/automotive/honda/techguide/honda_technical_guide.htm

you can get your specs from there for AUDM cars

D15B7

Inlet 0.18 - 0.22mm
Exhaust 0.23 - 0.27mm
at valve

dudeling7
13-03-2007, 07:36 PM
on a B18b do you measure between the cam lobe and lifter? or is like different?

i have tightened mine to spec. the tighter side too. but the ticking comes back after a week or so? does that mean the nuts are ot tight enough because itighten them well tight.

ECU-MAN
13-03-2007, 09:32 PM
yes you measure at the camshaft,

if the tappet locknut was then the tappet would go out of spec, tightning it will not fix the prob. you would have to set the tappets again if you didnt kill the valve train.

what specs did you set yours to ???

was the engine stone cold.

did you turn the crank 4 times, 1 for each cylinder ?

dudeling7
13-03-2007, 11:54 PM
yes i measured at the camshaft. and tightened all the locknuts on the tappet fairly tight. i dont have a torque wrench so jsut tightened them hard. the car runs great but still makes occasional taps - alot less then before though.

specs are as follows for B18B engines.

B18B
INTAKE: 0.003" - 0.005" (0.08mm - 0.12mm)
EXHAUST: 0.006" - 0.008" (0.16mm - 0.20mm)

so i aimed in between. maybe i am unsure about the amount of drag that is sufficient on the feeler guage?

also, after the adjustment there was no noise for abut a week before it came back? Does that mean that they were not tight enough?

Yes engine was stone cold left overnight and was crancked to tdc for each cylinder.

dudeling7
16-04-2007, 02:42 AM
bump, just wondering if ecu man could confirm with me the above. thanks.

ECU-MAN
17-04-2007, 12:01 AM
hi dude

yes for a B18C2 DC4 your specs are correct

imashy14u
14-05-2007, 10:26 AM
For a B16 engine i notice there wasn't much room for a fillr guage and a spanner.

The filler guage souldn't be a problem as i can use the ones with a bend in it, but with the spanner, it's a different story. how do you guys go about using a spanner and screw driver at the same time with the limited space?

ECU-MAN
14-05-2007, 04:26 PM
for the VTIR's you can get a special tool to set the clearances along with fealer gauges.

you can also use a 10mm socket and extentiopn bar on a 3/8 breaker bar, but its more of a pain, but it works.

kyle
14-05-2007, 04:36 PM
for me I had a spare 10mm spanner lieing around, so i heated it up red hot, then bashed it over a brick to get it to curve up. Then i re bashed it over on the other side to turn the originally strait 10mm into one the resembles an

.....|--C instead of originally a O------C
.....|
O--|

imashy14u
14-05-2007, 04:46 PM
for the VTIR's you can get a special tool to set the clearances along with fealer gauges.

you can also use a 10mm socket and extentiopn bar on a 3/8 breaker bar, but its more of a pain, but it works.

How does the special tool look like? where can i buy it and how much?

If you use the socket how do you keep the screw from turning when you tighten the nut?


for me I had a spare 10mm spanner lieing around, so i heated it up red hot, then bashed it over a brick to get it to curve up. Then i re bashed it over on the other side to turn the originally strait 10mm into one the resembles an

.....|--C instead of originally a O------C
.....|
O--|
Can I borrow it :D

ECU-MAN
14-05-2007, 09:24 PM
this is what it looks like

http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/tech/tappet-tool.jpg


they are not cheap.

you use the socket to undo the nut, it should only be loose enough to be able to just move the screw inside. set the tappet clearance and nip up the nut. check the clearance, if its ok, move on, if its to tight you have to loosen the nut then back the screw off abit then do up the nut then recheck. just keep doing this until you get it right.

takes a bit longer but defantly doable

Dxs
25-05-2007, 03:12 PM
TUBE SOCKET/SPANNER FTW!
http://i7.tinypic.com/63inq1l.jpg

cost me $12 from total tools.. put the screwdriver through it and use a spanner on the other end to turn the nut

ECU-MAN
25-05-2007, 08:11 PM
TUBE SOCKET/SPANNER FTW!
http://i7.tinypic.com/63inq1l.jpg

cost me $12 from total tools.. put the screwdriver through it and use a spanner on the other end to turn the nut

absolutley awsome idea. probably the best way to ghetto this tool on the cheap. Im on my way to get a 10mm and 12mm tube socket

many thanks

supersamEK
29-05-2007, 10:30 AM
This DIY is reccomended. Very easy to follow, thanks ECU-MAN. Gave it a go on the weekend and worked a treat, Shut up my tappets and motor feels 'tighter'. yay.

One question though, Can u clarify the TDC mark on the harmonic balancer? Is it the single little hole on the circumference of the smallest ring of the balancer?

ECU-MAN
29-05-2007, 08:55 PM
no its the single mark on the circumference of the larer ring of the balancer.

usually a white mark, the timing mark is a red mark between two marks.

Ill see if I can dig up a picture

supersamEK
29-05-2007, 09:10 PM
oh no... could i have screwed it all up then? i didnt use what u described. car seems to run fine though..

ECU-MAN
29-05-2007, 10:02 PM
did you line up the cam on TDC of Cyl #1 and #4 like in th bellow pic

http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/automotive/honda/diy/tappets/064.jpg

supersamEK
29-05-2007, 11:07 PM
yeah i could match up all the markings on the cam gear no problems..
but there was no markings on the balancer..a few holes here and there on it, thats it.
as i followed the intructions, each set of tappets that were next to adjust were loose like u mentioned. like i mean the #1cyl set were loose, adjusted them, turned crank and #3cyl were loose.. then 4 then 2. hope u get what i mean.
car run better though it seems... cant have gone too wrong i guess..

ECU-MAN
29-05-2007, 11:21 PM
sounds like you will be fine

good work

Bludger
30-05-2007, 06:35 PM
TUBE SOCKET/SPANNER FTW!
http://i7.tinypic.com/63inq1l.jpg

cost me $12 from total tools.. put the screwdriver through it and use a spanner on the other end to turn the nut


Exellent idea:idea:

BluEG
30-05-2007, 09:22 PM
http://www.powerbuilttools.co.nz/Images/640422w.jpg

i bought this at work the other week for $75

powerbuilt part no 640422

not too bad, pretty much a rachet set with a hole in the middle
to fit bolts or a screwdriver to do tappets

:D

Iwishiwasa Type R
04-06-2007, 01:05 PM
same specs for all b18 series...ie specs for ausdm R engine c7?


yes i measured at the camshaft. and tightened all the locknuts on the tappet fairly tight. i dont have a torque wrench so jsut tightened them hard. the car runs great but still makes occasional taps - alot less then before though.

specs are as follows for B18B engines.

B18B
INTAKE: 0.003" - 0.005" (0.08mm - 0.12mm)
EXHAUST: 0.006" - 0.008" (0.16mm - 0.20mm)

so i aimed in between. maybe i am unsure about the amount of drag that is sufficient on the feeler guage?

also, after the adjustment there was no noise for abut a week before it came back? Does that mean that they were not tight enough?

Yes engine was stone cold left overnight and was crancked to tdc for each cylinder.

BluEG
04-06-2007, 10:25 PM
no, b18c7 should be same as b16a (all dohc b series vtec)

intake : 0.15-0.19mm (0.006-0.007")inch

exhaust : 0.17-0.21mm (0.007-0.008")inch

someone confirm?

ECU-MAN
06-06-2007, 07:47 PM
same specs for all b18 series...ie specs for ausdm R engine c7?


yes same spec for all VTEC B18C

slidetaker
05-07-2007, 09:17 AM
this is what it looks like

http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/tech/tappet-tool.jpg


ble

Need some help here please....:confused:

I need to comfirm where to slide the feeler gauge to measure for DOHC engine. For SOHC, the attached video is clear enough....:thumbsup:
Can somebody draw on the above picture to show me??? Apparently somewhere between the cam lobe and rocker arm surface....

thanks....

ECU-MAN
06-07-2007, 03:05 PM
http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/tech/tappets-h22.jpg




between the yellow arrows

slidetaker
16-07-2007, 10:37 AM
[QUOTE=ECU-MAN;1245216

between the yellow arrows[/QUOTE]

Thanks for that. Just did that in the weekend.
Only the Exhaust valve of the 1st Cylinder is tightened around 0.002 out of spec...

Also, is it normal to hear gas escaping noise as you turn the crankshaft?

ECU-MAN
16-07-2007, 05:51 PM
yeah its normal

AsH_
19-09-2007, 10:12 PM
what are the effects of not adjusting the tappet over time ???

fuel efficiency?
noise yeh...

etc???

ECU-MAN
22-09-2007, 12:50 PM
the lash get out of spec, so a side effect is noise, but what happens to the valve train is much wors. you can damage a rocker arm, valve head posibly the cam as well ( depending on engine manufacture ).

it would take a while to do damage, but it all depends on how out they are

Dxs
22-09-2007, 01:29 PM
the work shop manuals indicate that the feeler should come in from the center, not the outside (if you get what you i mean)

do you recommend doing it from the outside so it goes between the cam and rocker?

ECU-MAN
22-09-2007, 02:24 PM
depends on the engine

SOHC you have no choice and it gets done at the valve.
DOCH I do it from the outside and check it from the inside to make sure its not to tight. DOHC get doen at the camshaft

omgzilla
04-10-2007, 05:35 PM
Sorry if this has been asked before, but I couldn't find anywhere:

Anyone know the exact clearance specs for EK4 B16A2 tappets?

Thanks in advance.

ECU-MAN
04-10-2007, 08:27 PM
http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/automotive/honda/techguide/civic/96-97-98CXi-GLi+VTi-R_tech_guide.htm


you mean B16A2

omgzilla
04-10-2007, 09:46 PM
OOPS! (fixed)

Thanks for that ECU-MAN ;)

Klayemore
18-12-2007, 02:12 PM
Looks like a good writeup, I need to get this done on my holidays my tappets are getting louder.

Any chance of getting the pics back up?

Cheers.

ECU-MAN
18-12-2007, 10:58 PM
pics are back up

Klayemore
19-12-2007, 09:10 AM
Legend! Thanks mate.

markoJEK1
09-02-2008, 02:35 PM
no, b18c7 should be same as b16a (all dohc b series vtec)

intake : 0.15-0.19mm (0.006-0.007")inch

exhaust : 0.17-0.21mm (0.007-0.008")inch

someone confirm?

Sorry to bring thread back from dead, but these clearances are for cold or hot motor? And they should be the same clearance required on a b18c from what ive read, Ive noticed it isnt as easy adjusting the tappets on a DOHC as it is on the SOHC, if someone could confirm this that would be great, thanks

teh_mechanic
09-02-2008, 03:16 PM
the measurements are for a stone cold engine.make sure it has been left not running for at least a couple of hours. its more difficult on DOHC,but its definitely doable. you measure between the cam lobe and the rocker.those measurements that you have are correct,correct for all b series vtec.i didnt have a the special tool and i didnt make one,just used socket to undo the nut,turn a lil with screwdriver to the right feel with the feeler guage then do up the nut,check and redo it until the feeler gauge feels good after the nut has been tightened,you get the hang of it after 10 or so goes

markoJEK1
09-02-2008, 09:29 PM
^ good stuff thanks champ

Klayemore
17-02-2008, 10:49 AM
I did this not long ago on my B20, the DIY helped heaps.

In regards to the 'special tool', I couldn't find one anywhere and so I tried to find a 10mm 90' spanner that would fit in the limited space - with no luck. The last shop I went to I ended up finding a 10mm 'brake bleed' spaner which fits perfectly!

beeza
18-02-2008, 11:31 AM
Thanks John! It's so easy to understand by your write up.Especially cause I got a SOH Banger :)
When my tappets are adjusted my car runs so much better.So I'm gonna be doing this every 10,000km now I know how to do it.I spent a week at my mechanics over the last month and learnt heaps.But I didn't do this.Now I gotta try by myself.I really gotta invest in some tools.I want an air gun.
Oh Thanks again John!!!

ECU-MAN
18-02-2008, 04:54 PM
glad you found it usefull

markoJEK1
19-04-2008, 01:34 PM
"CYL # 1 is TDC ( top dead center ) red section, you can grab the top of the tappet and lift up/down to confirm, it should move up/down slightly. "

I was under the impression that the adjustments need to be done on the compression stroke not the exhaust stroke ( where the lifters are rocking)

markoJEK1
19-04-2008, 01:51 PM
someone confirm this?

ECU-MAN
19-04-2008, 02:14 PM
adjustment cannot be done when the valves are rocking

markoJEK1
19-04-2008, 05:27 PM
.. fair enough, you yourself said that you should be able to grab the tappets and they will lift a little bit - meaning they are rocking?

ECU-MAN
21-04-2008, 09:02 AM
that does not mean its rocking

if you can lift the tappets a little bit on cylinder #1 then cyl #4 is rocking

rocking means the inlet and exhaust valves are rocking between the exhaust / intake stroke.

it has nothing to do with the slack in the tappet

markoJEK1
21-04-2008, 01:09 PM
yep fair enough, thats what I was asking , because the only stroke on where the valves should be rocking would be the exhaust stroke, none the less, all you need to look out for is for the rocker arm to be at the bottom of the lobe before adjustment, cant go wrong

PS : making the adjustment should be done on the compression stroke which you have indicated in the diy :thumbsup:

beeza
10-08-2008, 06:58 PM
I done this a couple of days ago.It was real easy and the car is running AWESOME!

sid
07-03-2009, 11:28 AM
Thanks for the write up matey. Did it this morning. Just giving it some time to cure. I didn't exactly follow your guide as there was the CRX Workshop Manual from CRXUK, which I followed. Compared yours to the manual and it's literally identical. Started the car for <1min and it did sound a LOT more quiet. Not sure if the adjustments have been done on my car before lol. Appreciate your effort.

ECU-MAN
07-03-2009, 01:38 PM
good work

no need to let it cure,

put the rocker cover back on ( with honda bond on the corners of the seal ) and fire her up.

beeza
25-04-2009, 07:21 PM
Bump! 4 a Great DIY that everyone should learn to do,it makes a big difference to the performance of your car.And it really is easy to do.
I will be tracking in a few days so I will be doing this again.

riruiz_88
27-09-2009, 05:02 PM
is it necessary to replace the gaskets for the cam cover and spark plugs? my car is at 222,000km and these gaskets were last changed at 199,000kms.

ECU-MAN
28-09-2009, 09:05 AM
not after 22000kms,, they will last over 80000 KM easy

riruiz_88
28-09-2009, 10:30 AM
so i just gotta be careful when prying off the valve cover, as to not damage/cut the gasket?
also the mechanic that replaced the valve cover gasket, used liquid gasket all the way around the gasket. is this need?

Sir_vtec
28-09-2009, 12:19 PM
You will need to apply gasket goo around the corners especially where the cam seal is and around the dizzy area as those tend to leak easy.

Gasket goo from supercheap or any auto shop.

riruiz_88
28-09-2009, 01:38 PM
sweet thanks mate. i got Permatex Ultra Grey. i got a new cam plug aswell, seeing as its leaking again from when i tried to fix last time.

beeza
28-09-2009, 05:00 PM
The old gasket sealant will just pull off easily.Wipe it/clean it up with a rag and apply the new gasket sealant.Then tighten the valve cover bolts in the correct order.Just google an image search.

riruiz_88
28-09-2009, 06:03 PM
i have the workshop manual for the EG, all good. nice to help other but, cheers for that.

beeza
29-09-2009, 11:59 AM
Good good :)

CIV-18C
28-11-2009, 05:17 PM
http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/automotive/honda/techguide/civic/96-97-98CXi-GLi+VTi-R_tech_guide.htm


you mean B16A2


link doesn't work anymore =(

Anybody got the specs for it, to post up?

Also, what are the HOT and COLD specs?

thanks

ECU-MAN
30-11-2009, 08:22 AM
there are no hot specs, if you read the first page you will see it stats they must be done cold.

Ill see if I can fix the links

CIV-18C
30-11-2009, 10:05 AM
there are no hot specs, if you read the first page you will see it stats they must be done cold.

Ill see if I can fix the links

Thanks for that.

I've used the cold specs stated for DOHC B Series engines throughout the thread.

beeza
30-11-2009, 10:21 AM
That`s it then mate,cause there are no hot OR cold specs,just specs.And you do it when the engine is cold.

CIV-18C
30-11-2009, 07:29 PM
That`s it then mate,cause there are no hot OR cold specs,just specs.And you do it when the engine is cold.


Thanks matey

Done and done.
Engine was left overnight. lol

beeza
30-11-2009, 07:33 PM
Good one!

Did you do it yourself or watch how it was done,what engine is it on?

Do you notice the difference in performance?

yiannixanthos
12-05-2010, 09:44 PM
great write up! i really wan't to attempt this myself as these valves are pretty loud on my 95 accord vti-s but i am afraid im gonna stuff something up =(
is there anyone out there that can help me out?

riruiz_88
13-05-2010, 05:21 AM
just make sure you dont tighten them too hard other wise you may break the nut/bolt. i was lucky nothing broke up me, cause i did it up just slightly to much which made the tappet come of it perch hahha. all good fixed in the end, just had to double check all the clearances again.

beeza
14-05-2010, 04:43 PM
great write up! i really wan't to attempt this myself as these valves are pretty loud on my 95 accord vti-s but i am afraid im gonna stuff something up =(
is there anyone out there that can help me out?

Where ya at?

yiannixanthos
14-05-2010, 05:01 PM
Where ya at?

melbourne (stkilda), vic

beeza
14-05-2010, 05:04 PM
O,nice,I was just there! I'm in QLD..

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?131971-Beeza-does-Melbourne-the-Yarra-Valley-dandenong-ranges-and-Phillip-Island!

Can anyone help out?

yiannixanthos
14-05-2010, 05:06 PM
O,nice,I was just there! I'm in QLD..

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?131971-Beeza-does-Melbourne-the-Yarra-Valley-dandenong-ranges-and-Phillip-Island!

Can anyone help out?

damn, if only u were here now! =(

yes can anyone lend a hand?

big tone
02-08-2010, 11:29 PM
I've been told for bout 2months now my car is very noisy and yes ive noticed an anoying note change.. the engine sound like it has a slight rattle at idle and the note in vtec now sounds like shit... my boss suggested i get the valve lash adjusted..

Now i found this DIY, things are gunna look up..
Day off wednesday so looks like i just made plans :)
ill let ya know on wed night how i go.... good write up ecu man....

PGB
03-08-2010, 12:31 PM
Thanks bud. This is the next thing on my list. Awesome to log in and see this at the top of the DIY list.
Thanks :D

ewendc2r
03-08-2010, 06:30 PM
I am in Brissie can help with tappet adjustment if you want. .. pm me

Red_EG4
03-08-2010, 06:58 PM
my car pings when it's cold but runs smoothly when warmed up, is this a tappet issue?

mugen_ctr
03-08-2010, 09:31 PM
how much would Honda dealership charge to adjust them? lol..... more than an arm and leg id imagine
An also, since im always busy, how much would the average mechanic charge to adjust them?

ECU-MAN
06-08-2010, 09:24 AM
Thanks Guys

Red_EG4 I dont think adjusting your tappets will resolve pinging issues, that would be more of a timming issue

Mugen_CTR you would have to call and ask, every place has different hourly rates. should not take more than an hour for civic integra ect

mocchi
06-08-2010, 09:26 AM
Thanks Guys

Red_EG4 I dont think adjusting your tappets will resolve pinging issues, that would be more of a timming issue

Mugen_CTR you would have to call and ask, every place has different hourly rates. should not take more than an hour for civic integra ect

one thing i notice is that the tdc for every cylinder is in the power stroke. is this right ecu-man?

ECU-MAN
06-08-2010, 10:16 AM
yes, it is

that means the valve train is rocking

Red_EG4
06-08-2010, 10:24 PM
what would cause my timing to be out?

also, I say pinging as that's what it sounds like to me. Once the car is warmed up the noise goes away.

beeza
09-08-2010, 10:27 AM
Mine was at 2 deg BTDC for a year!! It should be at 12 deg BTDC,I have no idea how it got there but the car ran a lot better after it was fixed.So weird.

vinnY
20-10-2010, 04:21 PM
do the specs change if you have aftermarket cams?

ECU-MAN
21-10-2010, 10:52 AM
use the stock clearnces unless the privider of you cams have given you different specs

vinnY
21-10-2010, 12:13 PM
running some buddyclub spec3+ cams, just checked out the website (http://www.buddyclub.com.au/2007/cams/cams_1.html) and it appears to be different specs

they say on a b18c1(same as our b18c2? should be the same for b series vtec though right?)
inlet is 0.008"
outlet is 0.009"
so about 0.001" looser than factory?

grifty
21-10-2010, 10:28 PM
i should do this soon, my car is starting to sound like a diesel lol

beeza
22-10-2010, 09:09 AM
Yes U should,it's not hard at all and makes your engine feel strong again!