Which Brake Pad to use

[pooface]

Hi Guys, i need help in which brake pad i would use for my EG at honda Nationals.

its a EG running VTIR (262mm) brakes.

ATM i am running standard pads and calipers and its probably not enough.

Could you please inform me brands and where?


I need to get them by 10th.


THANKS!

[trism]

get slotted rotors from DBA or RDA

and EBC brake pads.

greenstuff or yellowstuff.

buy from JDMYard

[pooface]

Spoke to Yonas today they are out of stock.

im scared if it wont arrive in AUS on time.

[na-118]

standard rotars with upgraded pads acre

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk

[pooface]

Sammy, is there another place to get it other than JDMyard?

they are out of stock... :(

[na-118]

even for the acre?

[pooface]

out of stock 262mm ones.

[DCZ 18C]

Call racing brakes Australia, it's in wetherill park, and get your self some ferodo ds2500 brake pads and mate with DBA 4000 series, these are awesome on the track and do very well on the road also.. Used ap racing dot 5.1 also... Good shit :)

[EG5]

We got RDA slotted rotors in stock as always
I will check EBC green or yellow pads 1st thing on Monday
ACRE pads sold out for now

[e240]

I wouldn't touch that shop in wetherill park. Got so badly ripped once, never again.

Now its either yonas or overseas online...See what yonas said..wait for him, he usually comes through with the goods. I just bought rotors from him on sat. Good price.

Stock.rotors are fine (as long as they have the minimum thickness) for now unless you're planning on going in group 1...:p

[Mr.Brightside]

V-Sport have very competitive prices on DBA 4000's and ferodo ds2500, this is the same setup i use in my Integra and works great with ~287kw.

[joe.teg]

im running RDA Slotted and EBC Redstuff on my teg and i love it. Im gonna try Yellowstuff when its time for a pad change. IMO DBA4000 are overpriced but the quality is there, it all comes down to how modified your car is and how quick you wonna run and how much $$$ you have i guess

[pooface]

Yonas, ill come around monday morning :)

[Fraser]

We use PMU from Racer Industries just brilliant.
EBC are rubbish in my humble opinion.

[pooface]

im getting Green Stuff... Thanks Yonas!

[EG30]

I wont use EBC green for anything more than autokhanas type of event dude.

At the track dont be surprised they turn into goo after a few hard laps.

Had a set of EBC yellows ( which is much more track orientated than the greens, and to a lesser extent the reds ) on 262mm setup on my eg when I started to track it a few years back and even that wilted badly after only 3 hard laps so they were marginal. I later upgraded to 282mm brakes not so much for the braking power but for the longevity of the pads and rotors due to more surface area.
http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/1425/img4987w.jpg (http://img843.imageshack.us/i/img4987w.jpg/)
http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/6868/img4986hy.jpg (http://img843.imageshack.us/i/img4986hy.jpg/)

Pics above taken after the track day I had, as you can see as it got hot the pad material started to crumble and filled up the slots and very high wear on rotor surface. Rotors only got up to 450C or so, way below the max temp rating of EBC's 700C. Pad material became very brittle after that also.

Yonas sells EBC yellows and Ferodo DS2500 pads right? If they can be sourced in time they would be much more suitable for your track assault than the EBC greens.

There are others performance pads that you could source from brake shops that doesnt break the bank, such as the Ferodo Formula ( old name TS2000 ) which isnt that far off DS2500 performance and lot cheaper as it's made in thailand and marketed as a road pad instead of Ferodo racing pad. I had the TS2000 in my eg with 282mm brakes setup initially and was suprised how good they were at the track despite the temp ratings being only up to 500C instead of the DS2500's 650-700C. The ds2500 did have more feel esp at light braking apps and from cold however; but price wise the ts2000 was only just over $100 when I bought mine, compared to $250+ for the ds2500 at the time.

[Tom eg5]

I rate Endless MX72

[markismaximus]

I wont use EBC green for anything more than autokhanas type of event dude.

At the track dont be surprised they turn into goo after a few hard laps.

Had a set of EBC yellows ( which is much more track orientated than the greens, and to a lesser extent the reds ) on 262mm setup on my eg when I started to track it a few years back and even that wilted badly after only 3 hard laps so they were marginal. I later upgraded to 282mm brakes not so much for the braking power but for the longevity of the pads and rotors due to more surface area.

Pics above taken after the track day I had, as you can see as it got hot the pad material started to crumble and filled up the slots and very high wear on rotor surface. Rotors only got up to 450C or so, way below the max temp rating of EBC's 700C. Pad material became very brittle after that also.

Yonas sells EBC yellows and Ferodo DS2500 pads right? If they can be sourced in time they would be much more suitable for your track assault than the EBC greens.

There are others performance pads that you could source from brake shops that doesnt break the bank, such as the Ferodo Formula ( old name TS2000 ) which isnt that far off DS2500 performance and lot cheaper as it's made in thailand and marketed as a road pad instead of Ferodo racing pad. I had the TS2000 in my eg with 282mm brakes setup initially and was suprised how good they were at the track despite the temp ratings being only up to 500C instead of the DS2500's 650-700C. The ds2500 did have more feel esp at light braking apps and from cold however; but price wise the ts2000 was only just over $100 when I bought mine, compared to $250+ for the ds2500 at the time.

the above pics don't look good at all.

Is it possible you got a dud set of pads?

did you follow both the pad and rotor bedding-in procedures?

[EKVTIR-T]

No he's not alone.

I've read elsewhere about the same issue with the leading edges of the slots filling.
Apparently its due to the resin in the pad material

[EG30]

Pads were bedded in properly and been great on the street no noise, very gentle to rotors and no issues at less demanding events such as hillclimbs and autokhanas. So for some apps they could still be plenty good, and they dont dust much at all on the street unlike the ebc greens and reds, and being a EE friction pad gives better pedal feel than say the ebc greens which is a softer more "compressible' FF friction pad.

Once higher temps are reached at the track ie 400C+ they really degrade and oxidise and started to scour the rotors bad.

Others with similar cars at my local track have similar findings as well even with larger rotors than what I had ie the pad material gets brittle and actually falls apart as well as high pad wear rate, and extreme wear and grooves forming on rotors making it very $$$ per lap despite the lower purchase price compared to say Ferodo ds2500, Pagid, Endless etc that have done much more thorough R&D than EBC with their superior resources.

When I bought mine in 2008 they were quite cheap, but they since became more famous and greedy and upped their prices a lot across the board and the value simply isnt there anymore.

As Fraser commented they are rubbish, and I dont disagree.

[Fraser]

Thanks EG30 for backing up my comment without having to go on and on . I've been racing cars for a long time and with that comes lots of trial and error experiences with many things and brake pads is certainly one.I've progressed through the lot and am quite happy to pass on my knowledge.Spend the money on quality stuff and get the best value in the long run and listen to others in most cases they have done the hard yards.Brake pads use PMU.

[rc_]

Thread revival.....

I inspected my pads today after a day at Winton recently where I noticed a heap of pad/rotor material on my front wheels which was unusual compared to previous track days i've done. The pads have started to disintegrate and are very crumbly, I noticed the build up on the wheels after my second session which was a bit longer than I usually do, maybe 10 laps or so.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/25/180d1729808b50722924c4bb5d35cd74.jpg

I measured the temps on returning to the pits with an IR thermometer and hottest parts of the front rotor measured was 374deg C. That was probably only 1/2 cooldown lap by the time i reached the turn off to the pits. The rears measured only about 110 degC. The brakes still felt pretty decent, I still have ABS noticed it came on a bit towards the end of the session, I felt the tyres going off a bit by then too.

This brake setup has been used for 4 track days and very minimal street driving, never seen the build up on the wheels before this time.

Car details are:
DC2 approx 1120kg
DC2R 280 mm brake upgrade
RDA slotted rotors
Ebc yellow stuff front/Rear
No ducting
Still had factory dust shields in place.

So, looking for a new set of pads. Think I will stay away from EBC this time seeing as though there are a few reports on various forums of similar things. I can't see the photos posted by eg30 describing EBC's poor durability but I assume they are similar to mine.

Maybe pad recommendations have changed since this thread started so....

Please recommend some pads based on EXPERIENCE not hersay, thinking of either:

Ferodo DS2500 or 3000
Pmu HC800 or RC09


Also if anyone wants to share pics of ducting setups and temps they have measured they have tried that would be good too!

[amant02]

I have ferodo only thing bad I can say so far is the only the dust. Either than that best pads i've owned so far.

[rc_]

I have ferodo only thing bad I can say so far is the only the dust. Either than that best pads i've owned so far.

Cheers.

Is that street use or track?

Ds2500 seem to generally get good reviews, not sure whether I need to go up to the next spec though. It still gets driven to the track so would prefer staying with a semi street able pad if I can get away with it.

Ds2500 are similar price to the pmu hc800 which I also read decent reviews on. Not sure which pmu pads the guys on this thread were using though there are many versions.

[amant02]

The car has not seen the track as of yet.
Have put close to 5000KM of daily use and few hard runs thru the mountains. Very consistent even when abused.
Just makes my shiny black rims look matte black in between washes.

[amant02]

PS im using 2500. I rate em. Probs going to be the pad of choice for the rest of my life lol.

I have heard good things about project Mu ordering a set for my jazz see how that one goes.

[Super-DA9]

PMU HC800 > DS2500

I've tracked on A1RM (which are the same compound as DS2500) and HC800, the HC800 take the cake for bite and withstanding heat imo. Just don't run them on the rear or you'll either lock the tyres or feel a lot of abs working lol.

[RenzokukenJ]

i use oem on dirt track

[Super-DA9]

i use oem on dirt track

I use dirt pads on OEM track

[RenzokukenJ]

I use dirt pads on OEM track

where in da outback u get dat

[rc_]

PMU HC800 > DS2500

I've tracked on A1RM (which are the same compound as DS2500) and HC800, the HC800 take the cake for bite and withstanding heat imo. Just don't run them on the rear or you'll either lock the tyres or feel a lot of abs working lol.

I think I'll keep the EBC yellows in the rears, they really weren't doing much and aren't getting very hot at all.

How many sessions / track days can you get out of the HC800? Do you mind sharing your setup (rotor size/type, dust shields retained, duct work etc)?

Price wise looking around

~$250 for either DS2500/Pmu HC800

or next step up

~$300 for either DS3000/Pmu RC09

I'm really leaning towards the higher heat range spec pads now because I don't want to waste time and money if the others are just going to fail after 4 events but I'm not sure I'll get them hot enough to get the most benefit.

The EBC yellows were only about half worn before they overheated and crumbled, so there was definitely more life in them if they didn't fail so miserably due to heat. If others are getting away with less race oriented pads with similar setup I would prefer that if possible.

[Super-DA9]

How many sessions / track days can you get out of the HC800? Do you mind sharing your setup (rotor size/type, dust shields retained, duct work etc)?

I don't know I haven't worn them out. I haven't experienced any fade yet. 280mm T2 slotted rotors, two-piston USDM legend calipers, braided lines, no dust shields, no ducting


I'm really leaning towards the higher heat range spec pads now because I don't want to waste time and money if the others are just going to fail after 4 events but I'm not sure I'll get them hot enough to get the most benefit.

The EBC yellows were only about half worn before they overheated and crumbled, so there was definitely more life in them if they didn't fail so miserably due to heat. If others are getting away with less race oriented pads with similar setup I would prefer that if possible.

If you only really drive the car on the track then there's no reason not to use proper race pads

[mooshie]

When you say don't run them in the rear, what would you suggest instead combined with the HC800 up front?

[rc_]

I don't know I haven't worn them out. I haven't experienced any fade yet. 280mm T2 slotted rotors, two-piston USDM legend calipers, braided lines, no dust shields, no ducting



If you only really drive the car on the track then there's no reason not to use proper race pads


Yeah, think that's what I'll do.

At the time when I got the yellows they were advertised as track day pads and are supposed to be ok up to 700deg so I read. They did stop well and negligible fade previous to last outing, just didn't hold up to the temps.

[Super-DA9]

When you say don't run them in the rear, what would you suggest instead combined with the HC800 up front?

It will depend on how much weight you have in the rear end and what your brake balance is like. I had HC800 front and rear at the last track day and found that although it pulled up really well, the rear tyres were sometimes locking under hard braking. I will be using QFM HPX street pads on the rear next time. I think the HC800 just bite too good for the rear end which in my case has hardly any weight. On the front tho, they are excellent.

Keep in mind I don't have ABS as well.