rebuilding engine for boost. noob!!

[cihanvtec]

hey guys, just after some help. i did abit of research but couldnt really find what i was after..

i recently got payed out for my EH after it was written off.. im planning on buying an ek and boosting the d16y4.. im not after massive gains, but i want a quick daily which can handle abit of spirited driving. from what ive read on here, it is possible to make around 110kw - 120kw on stock internals? however the engine life tends to be a few years only, and i wouldnt mind a little more power :P

i want to build something where im not scared to put my foot down and worry about throwing a rod. having said that i dont want to be spending bucket loads..

also, noob as, but when we say 'internals', what exactly are they? what will i need to replace or change for the engine to be able to handle say 130kw? i always hear ppl say, pistons rods etc. but what else? what are some good brands and how much should i be paying for a rebuild which can handle 120-130kw easily and reliably? but as i said, im on a budget here and am not looking for a massive power figure. just something reliable but fun!

appreciate all the help fellas :)

thanks,
G

[dougie_504]

You can probably put down 120kw ATW but not more. Once you start pushing more than 150kw at the engine (or roughly 120+ kw ATW) your engine might throw a rod (conrod pretty much snaps and flings right out through the block). History has shown the SOHC D blocks are only good for about that much power.

The reliability is all in the tune and quality of parts. Of course a healthy engine helps but then you wouldn't turbo a sick motor, that's just common sense.


For the engine to handle 130kw I would recommend either replacing the OEM conrods with forged items or at least shot-peening the OEM ones so they can handle more stress (cheaper than going forged).
At this time piston inspection would be a good idea to make sure they are still holding their shape properly.
The cam setup and valvetrain should be fine as long as you're not rev'ing the car much more than the OEM limit.
However if you're going to modify the block at all I'd recommend spending good coin and getting forged items so you can chase more power in future if you wish to.


At the end of the day the SOHC D-series is a cheap engine and that's why people use it - not because of it's potential. You can pick one up for $500-1,000. Therefore I wouldn't bother with shot-peening etc. Either use OEM internals and stick to about 115kw ATW to be safe/cheap, or go full-forged internals and push for double that power. If your OEM block throws a rod just get another one.


And before you go any further you NEED to state your budget.

[DakDak]

Whats your budget?
This is what I would be looking at if I was in your position
Turbo kit
ECU + TUNE
Labour for all the work
Heavy duty clutch
Possibly new engine mounts.
GOOD TIRES don't cheap out on this. Pretty sure your car doesn't have ABS either.
I can already envision this going above the 3K mark easy. That's if you just want mild power. With 6 PSI to be safe.

You rebuild the engine because you are pushing the engine beyond what it was designed to do. If you want more power than a basic turbo kit, you need built internals which is the insides of an engine. You need forged low compression pistons. Forged is the strongest way to make metal in comparison to cast etc. NA cars have high compression ratios for example a JDM S2K has a 11.6 compression ratio. This is because it doesnt have forced induction. If you force induct a vehicle you need lower compression to compensate for the turbo. High compression + turbo = bang. Now connected to the piston is the conrod. This needs to be swapped out aswell, as this connects the piston to the crankshaft, which turns to make your car move. Valve train. Which is the intake and exhaust valves, springs and retainers. These parts for the system which lets air in for combustion then lets exhaust out. Might aswell do the camshafts aswell if your gonna go this far. Camshaft controls lift, duration, timing etc.


Petrol will be another cost. Might not be as bad in comparison to a Skyline or something.
Gonna cost an arm and a leg to insure, how old are you?
Then you will need to maintain the engine etc. Turbocharging is a pain in term of maintenance.
You'll need an engineers certificate too and he may make you upgrade your little brakes to pass it.
I saw this guy cruising around in a B series turbo dc2. He recently got done by the cops and had to return everything to stock. Alot of money..

There is this Red eg i saw at GPC. HKTIIK? I think its called. Sponsored by JEM aswell I believe. pushes out crazy amounts of power from what I saw to be a B16 or 18. Didnt have a close up look. It allegedly pushed out 300kw on a dyno.

If you got anymore Q's just pm me ill explain in 'dumbed down terms' not putting you down or anything thats how i learn stuff too lol.

[Riviera]

Bro that red eg from JEM is 370kw atw lol. B18btm end b16 head....

My EK ive had mine turbo now for 7 months and i thrash it, stock internals B16A 12psi - 251HP atw 186kw atw.
Still going strong and its my daily and i cant help myself but thrash it all the time lol... Running 205/45 R16 federal 595RS-R 140 treadwear rating mmmmm tastey still wheelspins... Upsizing to advan AD08 Neovas 225/50 R16 hope it can help.... So honda motors are very strong... Maybe just go bseries B16A's are cheap cheap

[Lukezen27]

Bro that red eg from JEM is 370kw atw lol. B18btm end b16 head....

My EK ive had mine turbo now for 7 months and i thrash it, stock internals B16A 12psi - 251HP atw 186kw atw.
Still going strong and its my daily and i cant help myself but thrash it all the time lol... Running 205/45 R16 federal 595RS-R 140 treadwear rating mmmmm tastey still wheelspins... Upsizing to advan AD08 Neovas 225/50 R16 hope it can help.... So honda motors are very strong... Maybe just go bseries B16A's are cheap cheap

Riviera got it in one

you can have more power than your after and safer to boot = B16/18 + boost

Had a EG5 turbo D16Y1 135kw 11 PSI stock motor, blew up on the dyno due to overboost as I didn't know e-management needs its own MAP sensor for boost cut to actually work~~~~ hard lesson..
Crap power brand anyway as you can't get the power to the ground evenly not to mention crazy torque stear that'll put ya in the wall at the drop of a hat
PB 14.5....... slower than a EG with a B18C7 lol
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?79182-GReddy-Kit-D16Y1-SOHC-VTec-E-manage-Untuned-97.5WKW-Not-Bad!!&highlight=d16y1+boost (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?79182-GReddy-Kit-D16Y1-SOHC-VTec-E-manage-Untuned-97.5WKW-Not-Bad%21%21&highlight=d16y1+boost)


Moved up to a B16 160kw 10psi
PB: 13.2
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?108143-New-Project-EG5-JDM-B16A2-Boost-%2856k-Modem-Warning%29&highlight=b16+turbo

Sold her but she's still going strong and soon to be running in the Honda Nationals I believe

[connorling]

Bro that red eg from JEM is 370kw atw lol. B18btm end b16 head....

My EK ive had mine turbo now for 7 months and i thrash it, stock internals B16A 12psi - 251HP atw 186kw atw.
Still going strong and its my daily and i cant help myself but thrash it all the time lol... Running 205/45 R16 federal 595RS-R 140 treadwear rating mmmmm tastey still wheelspins... Upsizing to advan AD08 Neovas 225/50 R16 hope it can help.... So honda motors are very strong... Maybe just go bseries B16A's are cheap cheap

And yet i am scare blowing my engine off with only 8.5psi with the b18c2.