Power expectations from Fully built b18c7

[jdm_typer]

Hey guys i was just wondering about the possible power expectations from a fully built b18c7 motor, im in the process of building mine atm i don't know the exact specs were going with but i am hoping to be pushing around the 160kw atw mark any advice guys and possible budget i'd be having to make? btw im also going to be using a Haltec computer as i have intentions of boosting it later down the track.

Thanks guys :)

[tripleuse]

cant say unless we know what you have done to the engine

[jdm_typer]

cant say unless we know what you have done to the engine

Yeh i was just wondering what power people got from building there motors and what their budgets were likem.

[na-118]

160kws ? going to cost you a fair bit 5-10k depending on labour, diy etc. fully built? meaning sleeves and all?

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk

[jdm_typer]

Im willing to spend 13k its a project i have been planning for a while im getting a custom dart block made also for when the turbo goes in, atm the motor is coming out and being ripped apart we are deciding what size to go for pistons and what not if you would know any setup that has pushed over 160kw atw and what they had done to their motor greatly appreciated. cheers

[dc2r-0636]

Toda built a stoked b18c to 2.0L and it made 175kw atw

Will you be increasing the displacement ?

[jdm_typer]

Toda built a stoked b18c to 2.0L and it made 175kw atw

Will you be increasing the displacement ?

I dont think so were stripping down the motor atm and looking and what we can do in the budget labor costs wise im gettin looked after alrite as the mechanic is my mate also, so well see were we go from there but yeh im hoping for big numbers and quick 1/4 mile pass :D

[yah mum]

with all that money ur spending why not just start from a better platform and get a k?

[jdm_typer]

Yeh alot of people told me K series and i was thinking about it many times but i want to do something different from every other person out there and also wanna see how far i can push the motor lol :D

[DCZ 18C]

tbh bro if you are going all out and you want big power figures like it looks like you do want.
the Best idea would be a K-swap..
its becoming the norm as it is a much better idea and people are realizing that a fully built B will have very similar power figures to a semi built K and as its the oem goodness the reliability comes with it...
but if you do go ahead with the B will still be epic.. :)

[Jomsy]

why dont you just turbo it straight away and save your money, doing it NA will be very peaky power delivery for a street car

[jdm_typer]

Yeh im still gonna go B :D yeh i thought bout K but had 2 stick with the B

[jdm_typer]

why dont you just turbo it straight away and save your money, doing it NA will be very peaky power delivery for a street car

Im still on my P's im hoping maby end of next year or the year after im going to Turbo it but im rebuilding the block aswell so when i do boost it, it can handle big amounts of boost

[fatboyz39]

If you want power go for K-series.

B series you'll end up spending well over 10k and yet won't reach that target goal. What 1/4mile pass are you aiming for? That would be a better indication.

Intake system will need to be address, header and exhaust system will need to be address. Look further into close ratio gear sets.

[Benson]

i have to agree with most of the guys here suggesting K-series

Unless your really bothered and can afford a fully built B-series and account for cost when it does blow up, then go ahead with your build. You'll end up spending 15k - 20k to get your power goals

The K-series has proven to make an easily 160kw's with a set of stage 2 cams. They make a buckleload more torque (due to Variable cam timing) and has a much better transmission (6 speed). There coilpacks can handle 700-800hp. There are other advantages to a K-series, but i've list some of the basic.

Now when off your P's, you can either supercharge or turbocharge the K-series. You can easily make 450-550hp on a stock bottom end!

The thing to your gotta think about when you do your B-series build, what are you going to do if it blow's? Can you afford another rebuild? We all dont want to hear about motor blowing, but its something you gotta plan and discuss about

[jdm_typer]

If you want power go for K-series.

B series you'll end up spending well over 10k and yet won't reach that target goal. What 1/4mile pass are you aiming for? That would be a better indication.

Intake system will need to be address, header and exhaust system will need to be address. Look further into close ratio gear sets.

I want to honestly get a Mid 12 sec pass ive already dropped in 13k so budget wise i think im alright i kno every1 is telling me K series but its not what i wanted now if anything ill do it down the track, i just wanted some info on the b-series thats y i posted the question seems like every1 just says K series lol

[jdm_typer]

i have to agree with most of the guys here suggesting K-series

Unless your really bothered and can afford a fully built B-series and account for cost when it does blow up, then go ahead with your build. You'll end up spending 15k - 20k to get your power goals

The K-series has proven to make an easily 160kw's with a set of stage 2 cams. They make a buckleload more torque (due to Variable cam timing) and has a much better transmission (6 speed). There coilpacks can handle 700-800hp. There are other advantages to a K-series, but i've list some of the basic.

Now when off your P's, you can either supercharge or turbocharge the K-series. You can easily make 450-550hp on a stock bottom end!

The thing to your gotta think about when you do your B-series build, what are you going to do if it blow's? Can you afford another rebuild? We all dont want to hear about motor blowing, but its something you gotta plan and discuss about

Hey thank you soo much for your opinion and i really appreciate it and i kno K series would have been more smarter but i really wanted to build the B series as i mentioned b4 if anything i will go K series down the track and ive budget 13k atm willing to push it abit more but well see how it goes.

[TODA AU]

Im still on my P's im hoping maby end of next year or the year after im going to Turbo it but im rebuilding the block aswell so when i do boost it, it can handle big amounts of boost

So leave it alone until then, keep saving & do it once & do it right.
It'll be better, cheaper, faster, & more reliable in the long run.
All you need is patience.
Also, an N/A 1.8L b-series that makes 160kw @ the wheels won't really be ideal to boost.

[Touge Tom]

So leave it alone until then, keep saving & do it once & do it right.
It'll be better, cheaper, faster, & more reliable in the long run.
All you need is patience.
Also, an N/A 1.8L b-series that makes 160kw @ the wheels won't really be ideal to boost.

is that because the sleves are too thin? or the composite of steel used is too weak? what 'bout a set of 8:1 comp forged pistons? and going from all motor to boost he'd have to swap out to smaller boost spec cam's & piston to suit anyway.

to jdm_typer, why not just build for boost in the first place? i went the N/A path with a B20vtec, in my DA9. and then 5 years later i bought a DC2 with a B20vtec-JRSC for $12,500 from GPC. and i know for sure i spent more on motor,internals and g-box, for my DA9.

[89lude]

Pretty sure adrian simply means if you build a 1.8 n/a monster to make 160kw the specs of the rebuild won't suit boost down the track. He'll have to build a new motor to suit the boost to be reliable.

[mocchi]

is that because the sleves are too thin? or the composite of steel used is too weak? what 'bout a set of 8:1 comp forged pistons? and going from all motor to boost he'd have to swap out to smaller boost spec cam's & piston to suit anyway.

to jdm_typer, why not just build for boost in the first place? i went the N/A path with a B20vtec, in my DA9. and then 5 years later i bought a DC2 with a B20vtec-JRSC for $12,500 from GPC. and i know for sure i spent more on motor,internals and g-box, for my DA9.

i think because to get that sort of kw from NA, you need high compression.
high compression motor is not good for boost.

[Touge Tom]

i think because to get that sort of kw from NA, you need high compression.
high compression motor is not good for boost.

i thought my post was suggestive enough? ie;8:1 comp pistons?

[cotties]

it all depends on what you want out of it.
personally i think its great u want to stick to b series and they have been proven time and time again to be built proof if done right.
but you really have to plan well, you can price up the internals to your hearts content, but any good builder knows thats only half of it, for a high power b series motor you need lots of mods to all the systems and lot of them has to be custom.

personally i would do a build like this.
get a erl superdeck block (erl can supply the core) its much cheaper than a dart block and requires far less work.
due to wanting to run NA i would go for 9.5/10:1 comp forged pistons, 10:1 is still low enough to run moderate boost levels and still keeps the motor very responsive.
have the block bored out to 84 or 85mm to bring the cc up to the 2000 mark.
some nice strong I beam rods and arp head and rod bolts
go for a milder cam like a stage 1 or 2
get your head ported and flowed.
oversize your valves by .5mm
upgrade all the valve train
get a new intake manifold like skunk2 or edlebrock victor x and a 68mm throttle body
get a cheap exhaust manifold for NA and a custom 3 inch cat back for when you go turbo

now all this will get you a nice NA setup and it would pretty much be ready to install the turbo.
the most important part is what your going to do with turbo size and your mods to fuel and ignition system.

you will need to get 2 different sizes of injectors for the different setups so thats a waisted cost, you will also have to have it tuned twice.
if you want to go past 280-300kw your going to need to change the whole ignition system to individual coils, which is one of the benefits of k series, this is a major cost.
the pcv system will need to be looked at with the turbo motor.
turbo size will be a big factor, i would preferably go for a large turbo like a gt38 or a gt4088r, mainly cause you want to run the lowest boost you can but have the most flow you can.
with the 10:1 you should be able to run 12-14 psi before you start pinging. that should put you up in the 250kw plus range, which is more than enough for any street car.

but to be honest you are going to struggle to do it for 13k, even to boost the factory engine properly will cost you upwards of 7-8k by the time your done.

[89lude]

i thought my post was suggestive enough? ie;8:1 comp pistons?

I think he responded because you asked about the sleeves etc. Obviously compression is one factor but also cam profiles to make high n/a power generally wont suit boost. Generally, n/a cams have alot of overlap, but too much overlap doesn't suit boost applications due to the backpressure when using a turbo setup. But in saying this alot of the time entry level n/a cams are used on turbo motors to make big power, this is why people invest in quality manifolds that dont create too much backpressure to use n/a cams safely.


it all depends on what you want out of it.
personally i think its great u want to stick to b series and they have been proven time and time again to be built proof if done right.
but you really have to plan well, you can price up the internals to your hearts content, but any good builder knows thats only half of it, for a high power b series motor you need lots of mods to all the systems and lot of them has to be custom.

personally i would do a build like this.
get a erl superdeck block (erl can supply the core) its much cheaper than a dart block and requires far less work.
due to wanting to run NA i would go for 9.5/10:1 comp forged pistons, 10:1 is still low enough to run moderate boost levels and still keeps the motor very responsive.
have the block bored out to 84 or 85mm to bring the cc up to the 2000 mark.
some nice strong I beam rods and arp head and rod bolts
go for a milder cam like a stage 1 or 2
get your head ported and flowed.
oversize your valves by .5mm
upgrade all the valve train
get a new intake manifold like skunk2 or edlebrock victor x and a 68mm throttle body
get a cheap exhaust manifold for NA and a custom 3 inch cat back for when you go turbo

now all this will get you a nice NA setup and it would pretty much be ready to install the turbo.
the most important part is what your going to do with turbo size and your mods to fuel and ignition system.

you will need to get 2 different sizes of injectors for the different setups so thats a waisted cost, you will also have to have it tuned twice.
if you want to go past 280-300kw your going to need to change the whole ignition system to individual coils, which is one of the benefits of k series, this is a major cost.
the pcv system will need to be looked at with the turbo motor.
turbo size will be a big factor, i would preferably go for a large turbo like a gt38 or a gt4088r, mainly cause you want to run the lowest boost you can but have the most flow you can.
with the 10:1 you should be able to run 12-14 psi before you start pinging. that should put you up in the 250kw plus range, which is more than enough for any street car.

but to be honest you are going to struggle to do it for 13k, even to boost the factory engine properly will cost you upwards of 7-8k by the time your done.

Imo, there is still alot of compromise here which means you wont make the n/a power figure then you have a mediocre turbo setup too...best to stick to one route. Thats just my opinion though.

[mocchi]

i thought my post was suggestive enough? ie;8:1 comp pistons?

i thought you wanted 160kw na, and then boost it.
would you be able to push past 140 with 8:1?

nice post re: valve overlap 89lude. something to think about.

[jdm_typer]

it all depends on what you want out of it.
personally i think its great u want to stick to b series and they have been proven time and time again to be built proof if done right.
but you really have to plan well, you can price up the internals to your hearts content, but any good builder knows thats only half of it, for a high power b series motor you need lots of mods to all the systems and lot of them has to be custom.

personally i would do a build like this.
get a erl superdeck block (erl can supply the core) its much cheaper than a dart block and requires far less work.
due to wanting to run NA i would go for 9.5/10:1 comp forged pistons, 10:1 is still low enough to run moderate boost levels and still keeps the motor very responsive.
have the block bored out to 84 or 85mm to bring the cc up to the 2000 mark.
some nice strong I beam rods and arp head and rod bolts
go for a milder cam like a stage 1 or 2
get your head ported and flowed.
oversize your valves by .5mm
upgrade all the valve train
get a new intake manifold like skunk2 or edlebrock victor x and a 68mm throttle body
get a cheap exhaust manifold for NA and a custom 3 inch cat back for when you go turbo

now all this will get you a nice NA setup and it would pretty much be ready to install the turbo.
the most important part is what your going to do with turbo size and your mods to fuel and ignition system.

you will need to get 2 different sizes of injectors for the different setups so thats a waisted cost, you will also have to have it tuned twice.
if you want to go past 280-300kw your going to need to change the whole ignition system to individual coils, which is one of the benefits of k series, this is a major cost.
the pcv system will need to be looked at with the turbo motor.
turbo size will be a big factor, i would preferably go for a large turbo like a gt38 or a gt4088r, mainly cause you want to run the lowest boost you can but have the most flow you can.
with the 10:1 you should be able to run 12-14 psi before you start pinging. that should put you up in the 250kw plus range, which is more than enough for any street car.

but to be honest you are going to struggle to do it for 13k, even to boost the factory engine properly will cost you upwards of 7-8k by the time your done.

Hey thanks for the feedback yeh im budgeting 13k on the n/a side when its time to boost i know i will be looking at more money

[1900-hustler]

i would understand if you were building a B because your on a budget and wanted to use what you already got.
but since you keep saying you got 13k to spend - a K series would be better use of your money.

i just find it absurd you would spend all that money because you want to be 'different' - how many K swaps are there compared to built B series engines?
there are alot more worked B series beacuse alot more people can afford to build them..

anyway its your cash and you ultimately decide on what you want - but i know what i would be doing!

[dc2r-0636]

imo forget about staying n/a. go straight to forced induction and u will be more then happy with 200+ kw atw safetune 13k can get u best of everything.

and as sed in a previous post, n/a needs high compression, turbo needs lower compression. so having an engine built for n/a wont be too reliable with boost.

[Vvvtec]

Yup. Never thought I'd say this, but K all the way, especially with a $13k budget.

Your probably getting sick of hearing it, but it really is the best option for your money. Step into the 21st century :thumbsup:

[GSi_PSi]

VTC really is great, power delivery and the 6-speed just feel so much better. So much more reliability with k series.
You would be really quite stupid to go and spend 13k on Bseries engine when you can have a stock K that will wipe the floor with it.

[Jccck]

i just find it absurd you would spend all that money because you want to be 'different' - how many K swaps are there compared to built B series engines?
there are alot more worked B series beacuse alot more people can afford to build them..

anyway its your cash and you ultimately decide on what you want - but i know what i would be doing!
&

VTC really is great, power delivery and the 6-speed just feel so much better. So much more reliability with k series.
You would be really quite stupid to go and spend 13k on Bseries engine when you can have a stock K that will wipe the floor with it.

He is not stupid to want to spend that amount (Or more) money on a B-Series, or anything else Non-K-Series for that matter.
If you're going to be that blunt with your insults, i think you're an idiot because you drive a Civic/Integra.
Where's your NSX or S2000? You modified your Civic/Integra.. And a stock NSX will wipe the floor with it - Lol.

See how pathetic that is?
It's his money.. He will use it not to be different, but to be 'Himself'
If he sees himself driving a worked B-Series, all the more power to him.
Why are you all so bloody generic? God damn. Live a little.

And on topic;
13k is about what you'd be looking at to have this Motor done up quite nicely.. My longmotor alone cost me around $12000 and it's tipped to be unbreakable to 550kw/10,000rpm

[khanguskhan]

^^^ +1

[Vvvtec]

What's stupid about advising someone to spend the same/less amount of money on something that is better in every way?

I love the B series to death, trust me I do. But the day that I experienced the K series for myself, I realized that times have changed, technology has advanced, and K series is hands down and undoubtedly the way to go now. There's nothing 'generic' about choosing wisely with your money.

Anyway I'll leave it at that. No need to turn this into a K vs B debate.

160kw N/A b series would be a hell of a lot of fun that's for sure! :thumbsup:

[dc2r-0636]

ofcourse the K is a better engine then the B, firstly it has newer technology and has a bigger displacement. but the B still holds its own,
no point having a lot of power when u cant put it to the ground. eg that dc2r k24/20 head build, engine was built by drhonda but only ripped a mid 13 pass.
traction was an issue ofcourse.

ive said it before in this post and ill say it again, just turbo it.

[1900-hustler]

He is not stupid to want to spend that amount (Or more) money on a B-Series, or anything else Non-K-Series for that matter.
If you're going to be that blunt with your insults, i think you're an idiot because you drive a Civic/Integra.
Where's your NSX or S2000? You modified your Civic/Integra.. And a stock NSX will wipe the floor with it - Lol.

See how pathetic that is?
It's his money.. He will use it not to be different, but to be 'Himself'
If he sees himself driving a worked B-Series, all the more power to him.
Why are you all so bloody generic? God damn. Live a little.

And on topic;
13k is about what you'd be looking at to have this Motor done up quite nicely.. My longmotor alone cost me around $12000 and it's tipped to be unbreakable to 550kw/10,000rpm

why so defensive mate?
why so easily insulted on a forum? you aint even the OP and the post aint even directed @ you..

where everyone's logic is sound i.e. K series will be a better 'bang for buck' in comparision to a B series - your's is completely ridiculous comparing a stock NSX to a modified Integra or Civic..

people are just giving their advice based on their experience and knowledge - OP can do whatever he/she wants and can choose to ignore everyone's posts/opinions - no one is going to loose any sleep over it..

if there was a more effective and efficient way of doing something im sure most people would want to know..
but if the OP is set on a B series then go ahead and do it.. im sure there is plenty of information he can use..

OP, if your long term goal is to use force induction on your engine than just wait - otherwise you will be doing things twice..
save your cash and use it for other parts - i.e. suspension, tyres, brakes, braces etc etc

[Slaz]

If you got 13k to spend and want 160kw from a B and serious about the build and what you want, PM me as I can put one together for you, no problem. :cool:

[joe.teg]

Dont listen to all the K-series guys, sure k-series is an awsome conversions for all the obvious reasons (easier power productions, better power delivery, better gearbox, more modern) but everyone is forgetting how raw the B-series is. I drive a mildly built B-series (Head work only) and its a dream to drive, ill be upgrading to much higher compression bottom end soon. IMO, to produce that kind of power from a B-series you must get the turbo option out of your head and concentrate on building the motor up N/A. If youve got 13k to spend go for ITBs, E85 fuel, good cams (TODA, SKUNK etc), do your research on headers, full 2.5in mandrel bent exhaust, a good aftermarket ecu and for god sakes a good tune, GET A GOOD TUNE!!!! As for the bottom end, id run 11.5-12:1 forgies, a nice set of strong and light conrods (do your research) and for the crank, im sure the stock one will be fine, and at the end of it all, get the whole rotatting assembly balanced :)

Hope that helps

[GSi_PSi]

Jccck - LOL Not this clown again your comparisons are such a joke im not even going to bother.. Your engine build seems to keep increasing power output day by day, good luck
in your e-wang stat goals of 2011.


his goal is a mid 12 second pass, ive yet to see a n/a itr b series in australia reach that goal, however there are plenty k swaps out doing this
with much ease........
for example

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2Sc5O-vhBg&feature=channel_video_title

but at the end of the day no one is holding a gun to his head saying go k series. All advice coming from experienced guys like the byp brothers, who have been there
and done pretty much everything

[Vvvtec]

No, Jccck, the guy who posted a couple posts back

[fatboyz39]

Dont listen to all the K-series guys, sure k-series is an awsome conversions for all the obvious reasons (easier power productions, better power delivery, better gearbox, more modern) but everyone is forgetting how raw the B-series is. I drive a mildly built B-series (Head work only) and its a dream to drive, ill be upgrading to much higher compression bottom end soon. IMO, to produce that kind of power from a B-series you must get the turbo option out of your head and concentrate on building the motor up N/A. If youve got 13k to spend go for ITBs, E85 fuel, good cams (TODA, SKUNK etc), do your research on headers, full 2.5in mandrel bent exhaust, a good aftermarket ecu and for god sakes a good tune, GET A GOOD TUNE!!!! As for the bottom end, id run 11.5-12:1 forgies, a nice set of strong and light conrods (do your research) and for the crank, im sure the stock one will be fine, and at the end of it all, get the whole rotatting assembly balanced :)

Hope that helps


All that work and effort yet won't perform as well as a family motor k24 :).

Nothing against B series, go ahead and do it. But once its completed the money/power ratio wont be worth it then you'll end up K series.

K24 swaps can be had for as little as 10k.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?148797-Complete-K24-Conversion-for-EG-DC2-DC2R-WHY-BOTHER-WITH-B-SERIES-AT-THIS-PRICE!&p=3101152#post3101152

8.5k for everything minus labour! Has proven to make 135kw atw :)

[joe.teg]

All that work and effort yet won't perform as well as a family motor k24 :).

Nothing against B series, go ahead and do it. But once its completed the money/power ratio wont be worth it then you'll end up K series.

K24 swaps can be had for as little as 10k.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?148797-Complete-K24-Conversion-for-EG-DC2-DC2R-WHY-BOTHER-WITH-B-SERIES-AT-THIS-PRICE!&p=3101152#post3101152

8.5k for everything minus labour! Has proven to make 135kw atw :)

I completely agree with you, once i have the funds to do it properly ill be going K series myself. Im just trying to help this guy out as he wants a built B series not a K series

[khanguskhan]

There has been an N/A B series in Oz with a 12.3sec pass. Not as easy as working up a K, but that's where the fun is!

[nigs]

Fack thinking power. Focus on gearing, weight and setup. A 134kw K series could run a 12 with factory 6spd. 134kw B series with a 5spd probably won't.
Are your goals power or times? While they are related, they aren't the same.

[Vvvtec]

And the money ^^

[joe.teg]

Also i guess if his aims are to use the car as a street/track car or a street/drag car or only street, if he wants a street/track car then power means nothing without control :)

[GSi_PSi]

Was the 12.3 a dc2 chassis, highly doubt it ... I
Know of one that went high 11 b20 in a highly weight reducted eg

[Alexplicit]

do what i did and superdupercharge it. will be a blast to drive :D

[Touge Tom]

do what i did and superdupercharge it. will be a blast to drive :D
i second that. and with a b20 block.

[khanguskhan]

Yes it was a worked b18 in DC2R chassis.

http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_107982/article.html

Auto Racing Technik worked a few of these as well not just 1.

[jdm_typer]

&


He is not stupid to want to spend that amount (Or more) money on a B-Series, or anything else Non-K-Series for that matter.
If you're going to be that blunt with your insults, i think you're an idiot because you drive a Civic/Integra.
Where's your NSX or S2000? You modified your Civic/Integra.. And a stock NSX will wipe the floor with it - Lol.

See how pathetic that is?
It's his money.. He will use it not to be different, but to be 'Himself'
If he sees himself driving a worked B-Series, all the more power to him.
Why are you all so bloody generic? God damn. Live a little.

And on topic;
13k is about what you'd be looking at to have this Motor done up quite nicely.. My longmotor alone cost me around $12000 and it's tipped to be unbreakable to 550kw/10,000rpm

Top bloke great response cheers mate :)

[jdm_typer]

If you got 13k to spend and want 160kw from a B and serious about the build and what you want, PM me as I can put one together for you, no problem. :cool:

Hey Man thanks for the offer but the build has begun :)

[jdm_typer]

Dont listen to all the K-series guys, sure k-series is an awsome conversions for all the obvious reasons (easier power productions, better power delivery, better gearbox, more modern) but everyone is forgetting how raw the B-series is. I drive a mildly built B-series (Head work only) and its a dream to drive, ill be upgrading to much higher compression bottom end soon. IMO, to produce that kind of power from a B-series you must get the turbo option out of your head and concentrate on building the motor up N/A. If youve got 13k to spend go for ITBs, E85 fuel, good cams (TODA, SKUNK etc), do your research on headers, full 2.5in mandrel bent exhaust, a good aftermarket ecu and for god sakes a good tune, GET A GOOD TUNE!!!! As for the bottom end, id run 11.5-12:1 forgies, a nice set of strong and light conrods (do your research) and for the crank, im sure the stock one will be fine, and at the end of it all, get the whole rotatting assembly balanced :)

Hope that helps

Thanks for the heads up yeh im doing most there but not going ITB im getting a custom dart block made for strength maby a 100shot of nos aswell lol :)

[EKVTIR-T]

http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/7011/article11122080305b40b0.jpg

[GSi_PSi]

Yes it was a worked b18 in DC2R chassis.

http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_107982/article.html

Auto Racing Technik worked a few of these as well not just 1.

Sorry I missed the part where it said he ran a 12 second 1/4 . Article is bullshit , how in the earth you going to be getting 190kw-200kw even at the engine of a 12 compression and spec c camshafts b18, lol if you could get that much power out of a b series why would people go thru the engine swap route?.

[Slaz]

Hey Man thanks for the offer but the build has begun :)

No prob, so can you let us know what you intend on doing to make this power and who is building it?

[u mad?]

Sorry I missed the part where it said he ran a 12 second 1/4 . Article is bullshit , how in the earth you going to be getting 190kw-200kw even at the engine of a 12 compression and spec c camshafts b18, lol if you could get that much power out of a b series why would people go thru the engine swap route?.
they probably mean at the flywheel, since they're comparing it to the standard 141kw at the fly.

[jdm_typer]

No prob, so can you let us know what you intend on doing to make this power and who is building it?

For sure its getting built at Team K Kustoms, specs wise ill have a full list up of everything im doing soon.

[khanguskhan]

Sorry I missed the part where it said he ran a 12 second 1/4 . Article is bullshit , how in the earth you going to be getting 190kw-200kw even at the engine of a 12 compression and spec c camshafts b18, lol if you could get that much power out of a b series why would people go thru the engine swap route?.

That's at the fly, and if you knew the guy personally you get to know the time as well. People take the engine swap route because of the funds they can gather, it doesn't mean that you can't achieve that power with a b18, it takes time and more money, thus becomes impractical.

[Slaz]

For sure its getting built at Team K Kustoms, specs wise ill have a full list up of everything im doing soon.

No worries, who and where are team customs? What is there normal line of work and will they be tuning it?

[jdm_typer]

No worries, who and where are team customs? What is there normal line of work and will they be tuning it?

Their in Granville his a mate of mine, they do nearly everything alot of turbo cars, v8's and his done a few hondas aswell, and yeh their going to tune it

[Alexplicit]

me and tom are gonna be best of buds i can see!

[Touge Tom]

Yeah, power per dollar. The jrsc is second to nitrous oxide. And maybe 1/3 the cost of a n/a build. But having both a built n/a b20vtec and a blown one. It sometimes hard to choose which one to drive. The anticipation of that big cam coming on or the sheer torque. Decisions,decisions.

[nerrrus]

so whats the b18c good for? nowadays compared to the k24 build? still contemplating whether to boost or sell my dc2r

[Touge Tom]

Boost it. No regrets.

[hussLEr]

boost. i regret it going NA!

[nerrrus]

you think? but its only a matter of time and something internal will blow, was thinking about boreing out standard dc2r block and keeing standard crank. dont know if the money and time would be worth it in the long run. selling it and buying something bigger and work that like a sr20 or mayb even a rota.. im to indecisive, change my mind every day about that car very rarely drive it, have driven it in 3 weeks and makes me wana sell it but as soon as i spend 5 mins driving it makes not wana sell it haha

[Vvvtec]

F sr20, go K20 and don't look back ;) Trust me

[Touge Tom]

I love that some people are on the B series-suck's band wagon. eventually when something else comes along, bigger and better then K series. i guess everyone will be hater's on that too?. it's only a matter of time.

[Vvvtec]

Im not on that badwagon. I love the B series man. But there's nothing wrong with moving on to new and better technology. No one is 'hating' on the B series. And yes ofcourse, the day a better n/a series of motor comes from Honda, that will be the best option for it's time.

[dc2r-0636]

Honda owners are a bunch of pussys comparing and hating on different engines, K or B its upto the owner to decide

[Jccck]

Honda owners are a bunch of pussys comparing and hating on different engines, K or B its upto the owner to decide

Haha i know right?
Holden vs Ford, Nissan vs Toyota.. And everyone seems to hate on Honda.
Probably because Honda has an internal civil war going on between which Engine is better regardless of the model!
And when somone tries to be different, they're crucified!

And Nerrus, it's not a 'matter of time' until something blows.
Something will blow if you do a half assed job on your Motor.. Don't be afraid to boost!

[nerrrus]

I love that some people are on the B series-suck's band wagon. eventually when something else comes along, bigger and better then K series. i guess everyone will be hater's on that too?. it's only a matter of time.

bandwagon!! nahh buddy theres nothing like the b series, i wouldnt go any other motor thats why i would sell for something completely different k20 dosnt even cross my mind mate. my question was is the money and time worth what you would get out of a proply tuned and built b18c7,

[GSi_PSi]

Most people that have had input in this thread have more experience with all types of motors, not really jumping on any bandwagon, just stating the facts.

[Benson]

You've been through the B-series phase like us. So you know which engine is better to start with. Now if people dont want to take on board the advice and recommendation then these people cant be helped!

[EKVTIR-T]

Its funny how people cant comprehend that he wants to "do something different from every other person out there" by spending a shitload on his b-series like nobody ever does it

[nerrrus]

so i understand the majoriy reccomend for the k20 , its logic the k20 is a better base to work with we all know this. but i dont have a k20 i have a b18c not interested in a k20 as i bought a dc2r and im not going to throw away my b18 just because the k20 is newer and stonger, plus i grew all my knowledge on cars from the bseries. so my origional question still is too all that have been down the road of building a turbo dc2r what where your limitations. specs how was does it handle mass power on turns and what was the max power output achieved.

[nerrrus]

its not about doing something different from every other.. its about what the person wants to do for himself ya get me? personally b18 is still my favourite and always will be

[Benson]

Its funny how people cant comprehend that he wants to "do something different from every other person out there" by spending a shitload on his b-series like nobody ever does it

I've already seen guys put down 10-15k on there Bseries and only make 130-140kw

[Benson]

its not about doing something different from every other.. its about what the person wants to do for himself ya get me? personally b18 is still my favourite and always will be

To another the OP, it will only make 150-160kw peak. It will get owned by a 140kw K24 set-up

[EKVTIR-T]

I've already seen guys put down 10-15k on there Bseries and only make 130-140kw


I know lol

Sarcastic undertone doesnt always translate in text

[nerrrus]

I've already seen guys put down 10-15k on there Bseries and only make 130-140kw

turbo? and only that low output?

[nerrrus]

To another the OP, it will only make 150-160kw peak. It will get owned by a 140kw K24 set-up

regardless if its gets owned by a k20 the k20 can get ownded by a f20c i know the b18 cant produce what the k20. but surely u can get more then 220kw turbo b18, didnt that bloke with the plates IEVAQU8 get 220kw?

[GSi_PSi]

First up, Thread jacker much? maybe start your own thread discussing your questions so it doesnt seem so confusing.
Benson was obviously talking about a naturally aspirated B series in his post to ekvtir-t... If you cannot read the section you are in
it says ALL MOTOR.
If your after B18C turbo suggest you post your own thread in the forced induction forum
BTW K Series has more potential for power than F20C, thats why this dude did a k24 swap onto his 2000 :)
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/793303-my-k24-s2000-dyno-results-and-more-info-page-9/

http://kevos2k.smugmug.com/Other/swapped/kswap-finish-5/899446956_4Rhzd-L.jpg

[Touge Tom]

how come nobody is suggesting J or C series? COST $$$$$?

[Vvvtec]

Cost and also probably the downsides that J/C series swaps present, and the K series doesn't, such as the poor weight-distribution J and C swapped cars would have, thus killing handling ability. For a drag car, they'd be mad swaps. If the op REALLY wanted to be different there's always that option.

[rhys.l]

Here's a funny thought - maybe it's not ALL about power. If it was, we would all be running turbos and superchargers, right? You guys can argue all you like, but K series will never match the rawness, charisma and sound of the B series in my opinion.

On other forums, people are congratulated for being different with their engine choices. Sure, in the past, fully built b18s were not rare. But these days they certainly seem to be and this not surprising with all the pro K-series discussion doing the rounds. I acknowledge there are advantages to going a K series motor, but this guy did not even ask Ozhonda's opinion on this. Regardless you have gotten all your opinions across so leave him alone now. I say good on you mate and good luck :thumbsup:

[Mr.Brightside]

regardless if its gets owned by a k20 the k20 can get ownded by a f20c i know the b18 cant produce what the k20. but surely u can get more then 220kw turbo b18, didnt that bloke with the plates IEVAQU8 get 220kw?

Why did a F/I K24 beat a F/I f20c and a N/A k24 (damo)/N/A k20 (nick) beat the other n/a f20c's and even a supercharged f20c at honda nationals then? lol

[nerrrus]

First up, Thread jacker much? maybe start your own thread discussing your questions so it doesnt seem so confusing.
Benson was obviously talking about a naturally aspirated B series in his post to ekvtir-t... If you cannot read the section you are in
it says ALL MOTOR.
If your after B18C turbo suggest you post your own thread in the forced induction forum
BTW K Series has more potential for power than F20C, thats why this dude did a k24 swap onto his 2000 :)
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/793303-my-k24-s2000-dyno-results-and-more-info-page-9/

http://kevos2k.smugmug.com/Other/swapped/kswap-finish-5/899446956_4Rhzd-L.jpg

hey mate im just continuing the question asked. i asked the same question the title states, if i did start another thread abot this you would still flame me for not searching and finding this one like they all doo.. some people on this website are like girls will complain about anything.

[nerrrus]

Here's a funny thought - maybe it's not ALL about power. If it was, we would all be running turbos and superchargers, right? You guys can argue all you like, but K series will never match the rawness, charisma and sound of the B series in my opinion.

On other forums, people are congratulated for being different with their engine choices. Sure, in the past, fully built b18s were not rare. But these days they certainly seem to be and this not surprising with all the pro K-series discussion doing the rounds. I acknowledge there are advantages to going a K series motor, but this guy did not even ask Ozhonda's opinion on this. Regardless you have gotten all your opinions across so leave him alone now. I say good on you mate and good luck :thumbsup:

thanks mate, at least one understands.. letsd try make more to

[nigs]

Has anyone factored in built motors aren't always great or reliable?
Just from my own personal experience and those around me. I've seen oem motor out live built motors but not only that. Oem motors see more track time because the built ones are not without their issues. So that fact alone relies heavily on who builds it.
I'd be uneasy if that was the case and had to spend 12-15k on a build.

But judging by some of the comments in this thread. A fool and his money are quickly departed. Some of you have so much money but not enough sense to make change.
Don't mind me, it's just the jelly talking.

[Touge Tom]

Has anyone factored in built motors aren't always great or reliable?
Just from my own personal experience and those around me. I've seen oem motor out live built motors but not only that. Oem motors see more track time because the built ones are not without their issues. So that fact alone relies heavily on who builds it.
I'd be uneasy if that was the case and had to spend 12-15k on a build.

But judging by some of the comments in this thread. A fool and his money are quickly departed. Some of you have so much money but not enough sense to make change.
Don't mind me, it's just the jelly talking.

exactly, and that's why there's those who trailer their car to the track and those who drive it there!