jdm b18cr input shaft bearing

[rubixcube]

So I've got this squeaking noise in my engine. It happens in neutral and definitely in 1st, 2nd and 3rd, any faster and there's too much wind noise to tell. It sounds kinda like belt noise, only it's definitely the gearbox because if I rest my foot on the clutch even the tiniest amount, it goes away. After much google/ozhonda searching, it seems to me like this might be a bad input shaft bearing - apparently a common problem. So I'm looking for the right part number... but the naming scheme makes it difficult for me to figure out what part I want.. Assuming mainshaft and inputshaft are interchangeable terms, here is the list I've got:
one ('http://www.autodynamics-honda.com/hops1mababe.html')
two ('http://www.autodynamics-honda.com/hop21maanbab.html')
three ('http://www.autodynamics-honda.com/hop21manebe.html')
Is it one of these? Or should I be looking at changing a few things?

Also, the appropriate oil seal is this one??
one ('http://www.autodynamics-honda.com/hoph8maoilse.html')

If I can drop the gearbox out myself (shouldn't be too hard, right?) how much do you think the average mechanic would charge to crack the box open and swap them out?

Cheers folks!!

[mocchi]

i really wonder why its called input shaft bearing when its actually bearing for main shaft.
taking out mainshaft bearing is easy, just punch it out from clutch housing side little bit per side.

if the oil seal is not ripped, i wouldnt bother replacing.
but then again, if youre gonna own the car for another 10 years. not bad idea to replace.

you only need #1.

if you want to replace #2, thats mindfcuk.
gotta have proper inner bearing removal tool which is costly.
i replaced with with modest tool but def. not recommended.

http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/K%20Swap/P1020349.jpg
(mainshaft bearing/isb is the left one, bearing #2 is middle but on transmission casing side not clutch housing.)

#3 most likely will be fine and dont need replacing, i see it as least prone to wear.
it just sits on distance collar.

is that ek your daily? if it is, how long can you afford the downtime.
expect 1 week at least if you never taken out a gbox before.

expect labour only to be $400 and above for a workshop mechanic.
pm benjammin if you want good rates, backyard mechanic with good rep although im in different state than him.

also factor in the cost of new gbox fluid $30+, and liquid sealant $20+?, and plenty of degreaser $10-20.

i can see you put effort in searching, so i put effort in replying you.

[rubixcube]

thanks so much for the reply! so youre saying the part im after is the PS1-003 mainshaft bearing and the others aren't important? yea it's my daily, but I'm intending to be on holidays at the parents house so it doesn't matter. How difficult would it be for me with a haynes manual to disassemble the box myself and do it? Or just drop the box out and take it to a local mech (cost for that??) I've seen a pictorial DIY of someone doing the replacement on a d-series, and I was fine with everything up until the part where he cracks the box open and starts removing things...I don't really know if I want to do that in case I can't get it back together...
Furthermore, is it also worth getting a new thrust bearing while I'm at it? (I think thrust bearing is the one I'm thinking of..)
Thanks!!

[mocchi]

wat da cac is thrust bearing now? lolol idk man.
dont use haynes, download dc2r service manual from here

http://www.spoonertuner.com/manuals

read it till your eyes bleed on transmission disassembly.

[Bludger]

i really wonder why its called input shaft bearing when its actually bearing for main shaft.
taking out mainshaft bearing is easy, just punch it out from clutch housing side little bit per side.

if the oil seal is not ripped, i wouldnt bother replacing.
but then again, if youre gonna own the car for another 10 years. not bad idea to replace.

you only need #1.

if you want to replace #2, thats mindfcuk.
gotta have proper inner bearing removal tool which is costly.
i replaced with with modest tool but def. not recommended.

http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/K%20Swap/P1020349.jpg
(mainshaft bearing/isb is the left one, bearing #2 is middle but on transmission casing side not clutch housing.)

#3 most likely will be fine and dont need replacing, i see it as least prone to wear.
it just sits on distance collar.

is that ek your daily? if it is, how long can you afford the downtime.
expect 1 week at least if you never taken out a gbox before.

expect labour only to be $400 and above for a workshop mechanic.
pm benjammin if you want good rates, backyard mechanic with good rep although im in different state than him.

also factor in the cost of new gbox fluid $30+, and liquid sealant $20+?, and plenty of degreaser $10-20.

i can see you put effort in searching, so i put effort in replying you.if only all help was as helpful as this....

[mocchi]

^ tank brauh, free bcn&egg roll? lolol

rubs, i thought about thrust bearing when i was driving to work. i think isb/mainshaftbearing/thrustbearing is the same thing.
maybe the reason some ppl call it thrust bearing is because there is a shim that sits in between that many name bearing and oil seal.
this shims has various thickness.

service manual will tell you to use a special tool that grabs mainshaft and lift it up.
then you use another special tool(dial indicator) to measure this amount of lift/thrust.
using calculation provided in the manual, you then buy a certain thickness shim to make sure
that you have proper thrust clearance. maybe that's why its called thrust bearing. idk, just an assumption.