DIY: Regular Vehicle Maintenance

[IDV8]

Trying to learn more about maintaining my cars engine. I'm hoping to find some time next week to go over everything I can, had a quick look last time and had trouble actually seeing the levels of my coolant and brake/power steering fluid I think it was.

Anyone able to share some basics or personal tips/tricks you do?

Going to get it serviced locally soon at a spot recommend by alot of people with Honda's but want to do what I can myself and be prepared with all Honda fluids - just want to get the most out of my DC5 but also give it the care she deserves.. lulz :cool: Cheers fellas!

[Bulbasaur]

having trouble seeing you coolant and PS fluid levels? coolant should go all the way to the top and PS should have raised markings on the bottle

[son of eevil]

Not too sure how to answer the question.

Butttttttt.... I'll give it a whirl.

There aren't too many tricks or tips to servicing cars.... They're sort of a "you can only do it one way" sort of thing.

When changing oil take the car for a 5 minute spin, let it cool for half an hour then drain the oil, when the oil is warm it ruins out and you'll find you can drain a little more a bit faster.

Get yourself some car stands and a hydraulic, lowprofile jack, a nice socket set, screwdrivers and spanners and you'll have everything you need.

[ks_87]

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?110146-Noob-Guide-to-monthly-checks-for-EK-Civic-s-and-the-D16Y4-7-8-engine

everything might not be relevant to your model, but i found this very helpful to get me started

[IV73CI]

its pretty simple my friend.

Brake/Clutch Levels = should be on the full "F" line capacity.

Power Steering Levels = When cold it should sit in the 1/2 line or higher. When its HOT it will sit around the 3/4 --> Full line. (always make sure the fluids are at the top line capacity.

Coolant Levels = The reserve should be always in the FULL line capacity in COLD environments. in HOT environment, this can fluctuate from 3/4 to above Full line - depends on how much coolant you have.

It is also recommended that you use a 50/50 mixture - best for this is the Nulon pre-mix 50/50 long life coolant.

Rather than buying the full concentrate which can cause damage to your engine if the mixture is not accurate.

Radiator Fluid Check = When cold, remove the Rad cap off and inspect the fluid, if its not at the top then top up, if its full then your ok - but this does not neccessarily mean that your coolant fluids are full.

Way to check - turn on the car and switch on the heater at full speed. - keep the rad cap off and watch the fluid come out. Once the engine is at optimal operating temperature, the pressure within the cooling system will settle, which then you will see how much coolant u have - TOP UP whilst engine is on, and close the lid once the coolant starts to overflow.

**If you dont know how to do this, DONT DO IT!*** as you can get seriously burnt!!!

Engine Oil = Oil capacity should always be in the Full "F" or top of the line on the dipstick indicator. - Always check this at least once or twice a fortnight (depends on how much you hit VTEC vs Distance travelled).

Transmission Oil = This will be hard to check as some manual gbox do not have a dipstick for checking. I would recommend that on every 30-50thou klms service to have it changed. This way you know that your safe.

Unless you find it difficult to change gears and or your box seems noisy that usual - then i would recommend a quick inspection / top up / change at the service station.

AC GAS= AC fluid is something that you cannot change/top up yourself as this requires a professional service by the Auto AC service stations.

This is because the AC Gas R134a or higher is toxic and requires special vacume containment which cannot be released to the atmospehere. This is a compliance requirement. Old type R12 gas is now illegal and cannot be used (even though it provide a much cooling feel).

though you can tell if your AC is not functioning at the required capacity by;

1) turn on AC and have the fan to max - let it cool for at least 5-10mins, then feel the coldness.
If its not as cold as it use to be - then you require a regas.
If the output air is not as strong - then you require a new AC Blower filter replacement.

2) If you can locate the AC Drier/Accumulator this will generally have a small glass view which u can see the AC Dye (generally fluro green).

If you can see alot of this, then there is still GAS in your AC system
If you dont see any or minimal only - then you may have a leak in the system and will require inspection / regassing.

3) Have your car inspected for leaks/regas /service requirements - a free inspection is offered at some service locations.

Brake Pads = This is easy, if you hear high squeeky noises when you apply the brakes or the brake pedal is almost to the floor means you need to replace your brake pads.

Washer Bottle = This is for your wipers washer - top up with water and 1 bottle cap of car wash detergent.

Air filter = If OEM, open up your airbox and inspect your filter element. if really dirty then replace it. otherwise you can just tap the filter on a surface to get rid of any dirt, rocks etc.

After market filters = just give it a wash with a filter cleaning solution. otherwise a good spray of degreaser and soak the entire filter in a bucket of warm water for 30mins, then wash off and let it dry completely. Then spray some oil onto the filter (minimal) then re-fit.

The above steps are the common stuff you look out for, some on a regular or infrequent basis.