Choosing Coilovers for my daily car

[impresv]

Hello Ozhonda forumers,

I would like to grab some opinions on which coilovers to get for a street daily car. I have a Dc2r and also my mate has a Delsol b18 we're both looking for coilovers. We need some opinions on which brand to get . Choices are buddyclub, bc, tein, gabz if any other ones name them thanks !
Budget of $1.4k !

Thanks Peter.

[Cr0wbar]

I've got Tein on my DC2 daily. Being coilovers, they're obviously going to be pretty hard but I wouldn't exchange them for anything else. I won't be exchanging them for anything else!

[DCZ 18C]

I've got Tein on my DC2 daily. Being coilovers, they're obviously going to be pretty hard but I wouldn't exchange them for anything else. I won't be exchanging them for anything else!

what ones..??

[Lukey]

i got bc racing br type and im happy with them (being my first set of coilovers)

[stndrd]

For your price range of $1400, BC coilovers are a very hard option to go past bang for buck wise. If you are wanting to spend around $2k+, then start thinking of Tein, KW Sport, Koni etc etc. Spring rate wise, if the car is only ever going to see street, don't go overkill. for your EK1, something like 10kg2/mm front & 6kg2/mm & for the DC2 something like 10kg2/mm front & 8kg2/mm rear would be ideal. If you are going to be doing serious track work and don't mind your car being rock hard on the street, obviously go higher spring rates, but I would start with the above mentioned rates & go from there. I am running Tein Monoflex 10kg2/mm front & 6kg2/mm rear in my EG with front & rear swaybars and since I fitted the swaybars this combo holds up fairly well on the track (before I fitted the swaybars it did lean a little bit too much)

[Oxer]

+1 BC coilovers

[marquee]

+1 BC coilovers

Yup me too

[EKVTIR-T]

Why would you spend that much on taiwanese junk when JdmConcept has Tanabe GF for $1420...really boggles my mind

http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/jdm-image/product574.png

http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/index.php?option=com_jdm&p=vehicle&mid=2&cid=34

[aozora]

Why would you spend that much on taiwanese junk when JdmConcept has Tanabe GF for $1420...really boggles my mind

http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/jdm-image/product574.png

http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/index.php?option=com_jdm&p=vehicle&mid=2&cid=34

You'd be surprised where certain "Japanese" manufacturers outsource their production lines...
But anyway the only difference I can see is that BC have damper adjustability where the Tanabe's do not. However how damper adjustability is implemented into low end coil-overs is fairly gimicky. That said, quite a few friends have run BC coilovers without any complaints...

Ultimately if you're only going to be running the coilovers on the street, there's no point getting rock hard spring rates. You'll probably handle worse as your suspension isn't absorbing the bumps very well - instead transfering it into the chassis and unsettling the car. So it depends on whether you see yourself doing any track time in the future?

[hazza78]

i got bc racing br type and im happy with them (being my first set of coilovers)

Where did you buy them from, how much, and for what car?

I have a sport FD2 and want the same set. They have soft 7kg springs, other have 10-12kg. Thanks for the info.

[Lukey]

i got them from felixd off these forums in melb for $1250. for my dc4 integra

[exquisit]

to the people using bc's... have they tried any other suspension??
i found the bc's way too bouncy... where as even bc rsd with higher spring rates are more driveable...

[Tegzieboi_BAR]

^^^ agree, BC's r pretty stiff n bouncy.. I've been running Tein SS for 3-4 years and am very happy with them... I even track it with em n I can't complain with their performance. Good spring rates for street use :thumbsup:

[midnightdood]

I wouldnt want to be running more than a 6kg rear spring for a daily driven car.

[hazza78]

I called up 3 places in Sydney today to get a quote for the BC Racing BR coilovers for my FD2 sport. I was all set and ready to buy them, when all 3 of them told me the exact same thing. "We no longer sell them as they were bad quality and had too many problems with them". 1 guy said he had them in his own car for 8 months and ended up ripping them out.

Now, this is not my opinion, so don't get angry. As I said, I was about to order my set.

All 3 of them recommended the Yellow-speed coiover kit. They said it's better than the BC, and better has a better pillow ball mount which does not turn/twist the spring, so they are very quiet.

Now I am confused and spewsing that I have had to delay buyin a coilover kit. The Yellow speed are around $1150.

Can anyone give me advise on a coilover kit less than the $1500 mark? I am not willing to spend $2000+ for coiovers. They will be street only, I want at least a 1.5" drop over standard (tyres flush with guard).

Thanks.

[jezza30]

The gold series of BC are exellent. I have been running a set in my dc2r for the past year and still going hard. They have the 32 way dampening and when all the way down low. they are quite soft and are not as bouncey. I have mine on hardest setting all the time, as i have gotten used to them and still dont find them uncomfortable people in the back seat might get annoyed. But who has people in the back haha. I believe they are $1299 now. The spring rates on mine are 12kg fronts and 8kg rears im pretty sure. The height adjustment is easy as well. The one i was told with problems was the first series of BC the red ones. Alot of people posted problems about them.
I have done some really hard driving in them and not yet had a problem. But would suggest to change alot of the ctrl arm bushings as mine are on their way out because standard bushings are set to the standard suspension and overtime they will take some punishment with the coilovers.

[SlobberGoat]

Koni yellows + GC combo.

[blabla]

Hello Ozhonda forumers,

I would like to grab some opinions on which coilovers to get for a street daily car. I have a Dc2r and also my mate has a Delsol b18 we're both looking for coilovers. We need some opinions on which brand to get . Choices are buddyclub, bc, tein, gabz if any other ones name them thanks !
Budget of $1.4k !

Thanks Peter.

Hey mate pm me ur number and ill take you for a spin in my car i have Gabs SS 20 clicks in the front and 10 and rear and i have ek coupe.

[blabla]

I wouldnt want to be running more than a 6kg rear spring for a daily driven car.

8kg front and 5kg rear

[hazza78]

Thought I would update you guys.

After doing more research and speaking to other suspension retailers. Here is the story.

The earlier BC BR coilovers were co-developed in AU and were quite good, no retailers had problems. Then BC switched factories and suppliers, this is when it all went bad. Quality and warranty issues, so everyone has stopped selling them.

They now sell Yellow-speed which are the best of the cheaper brands. They are better than King Springs, XYZ, KYB, and BC. They are the exact same unit sold by Pedders which they sell as Pedders Extreme XA for significantly more money.

Anyways, I have ordered myself a set. For street use, can't beat them. If I was to race I would have to spend a lot more, andwould prob opt for the Tein SS.

I got the Yellow-speed for $1000 suply only from Wholesale Suspension at Penrith. MX5Mania has them for the same price for the FD2 sedan.

[exquisit]

keep us updated

[GSi_PSi]

+ BC BR coilovers doing the job on my EG2

[Oxer]

Why would you spend that much on taiwanese junk when JdmConcept has Tanabe GF for $1420...really boggles my mind

http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/jdm-image/product574.png

http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/index.php?option=com_jdm&p=vehicle&mid=2&cid=34

To lower those coilovers it would appear you would have to wind down your spring perch, therefore loosing your preload. BC have adjustable lower perches to change the height whilst keeping the spring preloaded. $1420 for coilovers that lose shock stroke to lower? May aswell cut the springs on stock struts, does the same thing. you can stick to your fancy names ;)

Anyone having dramas with BC's being too bouncy is most likely due to higher then standard preload rates, matched with a high dampening rate. you can fine tune BC's to ride amazingly, you just need to know what you are doing in order to adjust them.

[chargeR]

To lower those coilovers it would appear you would have to wind down your spring perch, therefore loosing your preload. BC have adjustable lower perches to change the height whilst keeping the spring preloaded. $1420 for coilovers that lose shock stroke to lower? May aswell cut the springs on stock struts, does the same thing. you can stick to your fancy names ;)

Anyone having dramas with BC's being too bouncy is most likely due to higher then standard preload rates, matched with a high dampening rate. you can fine tune BC's to ride amazingly, you just need to know what you are doing in order to adjust them.

They look to be a twin tube design so they probably have plenty enough stroke to tolerate plenty of ride height change. Losing shock bump stroke at lower ride heights doesn't seem to bother Moton, Penske, JRZ, AST, Bilstein, Ohlins, Koni, KW etc. and you will rarely find height adjustment independent of shock stroke on shocks like that except when the engineers are getting creative with droop limiting or other advanced tuning techniques that are rarely applicable to FWD Hondas. Topping out a shock is just as bad as bottoming it out.

Also preload is a stupid term and should be struck from the vocabulary of automotive enthusiasts. You imply some "preload" is desirable, why is this? What's wrong with having the spring loose at full droop?

[lil_foy]

They look to be a twin tube design so they probably have plenty enough stroke to tolerate plenty of ride height change. Losing shock bump stroke at lower ride heights doesn't seem to bother Moton, Penske, JRZ, AST, Bilstein, Ohlins, Koni, KW etc. and you will rarely find height adjustment independent of shock stroke on shocks like that except when the engineers are getting creative with droop limiting or other advanced tuning techniques that are rarely applicable to FWD Hondas. Topping out a shock is just as bad as bottoming it out.

Also preload is a stupid term and should be struck from the vocabulary of automotive enthusiasts. You imply some "preload" is desirable, why is this? What's wrong with having the spring loose at full droop?

Wouldnt having it uncaptured at full extention mean on the chance that when you're at full extention (for example on the inside tyres of a high G corner) you have "x" amount of unloaded compression when the weight gets shifted back. Which wouldn't be ideal, yes?

[senna]

The biggest issue you will have when a coil becomes untrapped is that it can move from the locating seat and potentially damage the shock rod or body when the coil is compressed again in this position.

Pre-load is a stupid term when it comes to coilovers, think of it this way - wind the spring seat up, wind the spring seat down what have you changed? The position of the spring, that is all. The weight on the coil is still exactly the same! If you wind up the "pre-load" on the coil you are simply bringing the spring closer to the installed or loaded height, the closer you are to loaded height, the less droop or down travel the shock has then negating the rebound effort of the shock. Once you have little or no rebound stroke you will also experience less tyre contact with the road making the car skittish and handle worse.

The only reason the spring seat is adjustable on those coilovers is to allow different length coils to be used on a one size fits all shock body and also you can try and set the coilovers up so that once at ride height the shock has the ideal amount of stroke in bump and rebound.

[exquisit]

The biggest issue you will have when a coil becomes untrapped is that it can move from the locating seat and potentially damage the shock rod or body when the coil is compressed again in this position.

Pre-load is a stupid term when it comes to coilovers, think of it this way - wind the spring seat up, wind the spring seat down what have you changed? The position of the spring, that is all. The weight on the coil is still exactly the same! If you wind up the "pre-load" on the coil you are simply bringing the spring closer to the installed or loaded height, the closer you are to loaded height, the less droop or down travel the shock has then negating the rebound effort of the shock. Once you have little or no rebound stroke you will also experience less tyre contact with the road making the car skittish and handle worse.

The only reason the spring seat is adjustable on those coilovers is to allow different length coils to be used on a one size fits all shock body and also you can try and set the coilovers up so that once at ride height the shock has the ideal amount of stroke in bump and rebound.

how do you go about doin this??

[exquisit]

To lower those coilovers it would appear you would have to wind down your spring perch, therefore loosing your preload. BC have adjustable lower perches to change the height whilst keeping the spring preloaded. $1420 for coilovers that lose shock stroke to lower? May aswell cut the springs on stock struts, does the same thing. you can stick to your fancy names ;)

Anyone having dramas with BC's being too bouncy is most likely due to higher then standard preload rates, matched with a high dampening rate. you can fine tune BC's to ride amazingly, you just need to know what you are doing in order to adjust them.
how did you tune out the bouncyness??

[senna]

You need to measure the total stroke of the inserts, then make sure that the installed height allows enough travel each way. You keep adjusting the spring seat until the shock has around (for example) 65% bump stroke to 35% rebound stroke.

[Oxer]

They look to be a twin tube design so they probably have plenty enough stroke to tolerate plenty of ride height change. Losing shock bump stroke at lower ride heights doesn't seem to bother Moton, Penske, JRZ, AST, Bilstein, Ohlins, Koni, KW etc. and you will rarely find height adjustment independent of shock stroke on shocks like that except when the engineers are getting creative with droop limiting or other advanced tuning techniques that are rarely applicable to FWD Hondas. Topping out a shock is just as bad as bottoming it out.

Also preload is a stupid term and should be struck from the vocabulary of automotive enthusiasts. You imply some "preload" is desirable, why is this? What's wrong with having the spring loose at full droop?

http://s3.amazonaws.com/kym-assets/photos/images/newsfeed/000/184/961/tumblr_lnvvueuSsj1qcj56b.png?1318394475


The biggest issue you will have when a coil becomes untrapped is that it can move from the locating seat and potentially damage the shock rod or body when the coil is compressed again in this position.

Pre-load is a stupid term when it comes to coilovers, think of it this way - wind the spring seat up, wind the spring seat down what have you changed? The position of the spring, that is all. The weight on the coil is still exactly the same! If you wind up the "pre-load" on the coil you are simply bringing the spring closer to the installed or loaded height, the closer you are to loaded height, the less droop or down travel the shock has then negating the rebound effort of the shock. Once you have little or no rebound stroke you will also experience less tyre contact with the road making the car skittish and handle worse.

The only reason the spring seat is adjustable on those coilovers is to allow different length coils to be used on a one size fits all shock body and also you can try and set the coilovers up so that once at ride height the shock has the ideal amount of stroke in bump and rebound.

Actually, If you wind a spring up, beyond the point of where contact to the top plate it, and continue to wind it up, you are "Loading" the spring. A spring doesnt just compress and the rate stays the same, the rate will change as it is under a lot more force then it it was not "Loaded" therefore the ride would become quite a bit stiffer and more bouncy.

The term "Pre-Load" is only stupid to people who think they know how suspension components work.


Everyone is an expert in here though. Thank god for E-mechanics/E-engineers.

[senna]

How does a liner rate spring increase in spring rate if you compress it more? It's linear...

So if a 500lb/in spring takes 500 pounds to compress one inch, it requires an additional 500 pounds to compress it another inch. What you aren't thinking about is that the weight you are about to put on the car hasn't changed.

Soooo....if you install a coil spring in to a car already at the loaded height, why would it change in strength or position once you put the car back down on the ground? All you have done is remove all of the rebound stroke from the shock. You might change the ride height, but not the coil installed height/length.

Your theory only works if the coils are a progressive design, like stacked or tapered wire, but then it will only work at a particular spring rate until the weight of the car is no longer adequate to compress the spring further than its current loaded height.

[Oxer]

How does a liner rate spring increase in spring rate if you compress it more? It's linear...

So if a 500lb/in spring takes 500 pounds to compress one inch, it requires an additional 500 pounds to compress it another inch. What you aren't thinking about is that the weight you are about to put on the car hasn't changed.

Soooo....if you install a coil spring in to a car already at the loaded height, why would it change in strength or position once you put the car back down on the ground? All you have done is remove all of the rebound stroke from the shock. You might change the ride height, but not the coil installed height/length.

Your theory only works if the coils are a progressive design, like stacked or tapered wire, but then it will only work at a particular spring rate until the weight of the car is no longer adequate to compress the spring further than its current loaded height.

But if you are winding the spring up on the strut, beyond the point of contact, you are compressing the spring, therefore changing the rate in which it will rebound at.

I think you are trying to argue a point without understanding what I am explaining. Maybe I just have terrible descriptive skills on the internet therefore what I say isnt worth shit.

My bad.

[Oxer]

In saying that, you should never wind the spring up beyond the point of contact, But I have seen "Suspension Specialists" do that exact thing. Hence why I bring that subject up.

[senna]

I see what you are saying, but i don't see how you can get a linear rate coil to do anything different from a loaded height. Apart from topping out the shock on rebound or droop.

Honestly, i don't want a keyboard war happening here, It's only going to mess this thread up further and i only came here to get some info as i'm buying a civic by the end of next week - just trying to give back where i can.

Suspension is my profession by the way. :thumbsup:

[Oxer]

lol...


Maybe one day when Im back in sydney we can discuss it in person and I could explain the way it works a lot easier.

[senna]

Happy to hear it :thumbsup:

[chargeR]

Wouldnt having it uncaptured at full extention mean on the chance that when you're at full extention (for example on the inside tyres of a high G corner) you have "x" amount of unloaded compression when the weight gets shifted back. Which wouldn't be ideal, yes?

Yep you're right, there would be shock travel and body roll before the spring contacted the perch where the spring would have no influence and that corner of the car would effectively be in free fall (except obviously the compression damping of the shock and bushing stiffness would be acting as spring rate). Alternatively though if the shock is droop limited, as in the situation where you have a heavily "preloaded" spring, then you will have the same problem except instead of continuing in droop travel the shock will just stop and lift the tyre of the ground abruptly and contact the ground just as abruptly as the cornering load is removed. Neither situation is desirable in my opinion.

However this will very rarely happen on tarmac with swaybars, as it is very difficult for a shock to reach full drop under cornering loads on a smooth surface assuming the single wheel rate of the sway bar is sufficient to overcome the unsprung mass trying to pull the wheel down toward the ground. If you are rallying or in dukes of hazzard style situations where you are hitting full droop constantly, then keeping the spring captive with a helper spring or similar is definitely advisable.

Sorry if my explanation is a bit poor, I prefer to draw things on paper :p.


The biggest issue you will have when a coil becomes untrapped is that it can move from the locating seat and potentially damage the shock rod or body when the coil is compressed again in this position.

Pre-load is a stupid term when it comes to coilovers, think of it this way - wind the spring seat up, wind the spring seat down what have you changed? The position of the spring, that is all. The weight on the coil is still exactly the same! If you wind up the "pre-load" on the coil you are simply bringing the spring closer to the installed or loaded height, the closer you are to loaded height, the less droop or down travel the shock has then negating the rebound effort of the shock. Once you have little or no rebound stroke you will also experience less tyre contact with the road making the car skittish and handle worse.

The only reason the spring seat is adjustable on those coilovers is to allow different length coils to be used on a one size fits all shock body and also you can try and set the coilovers up so that once at ride height the shock has the ideal amount of stroke in bump and rebound.

Great post. Succinctly sums up the main concepts on why preloading is just tuning the amount of bump and droop travel.


http://s3.amazonaws.com/kym-assets/photos/images/newsfeed/000/184/961/tumblr_lnvvueuSsj1qcj56b.png?1318394475



Actually, If you wind a spring up, beyond the point of where contact to the top plate it, and continue to wind it up, you are "Loading" the spring. A spring doesnt just compress and the rate stays the same, the rate will change as it is under a lot more force then it it was not "Loaded" therefore the ride would become quite a bit stiffer and more bouncy.

The term "Pre-Load" is only stupid to people who think they know how suspension components work.


Everyone is an expert in here though. Thank god for E-mechanics/E-engineers.

No I am not kidding. Plenty of shocks do not limit droop travel, which is what you are doing when you "pre-load" your spring, the world doesn't end and they don't have springs lifting off spring seats during use or shock shafts getting bent because of it.

I don't know how else to state this: senna and I are correct, you are wrong. A linear spring is linear (sorta, the geometry of the ends and a few other effects make them somewhat non-linear) and by compressing (preloading) the spring further when the shock is at full droop you are only limiting the amount of droop travel. The spring's rate doesn't change. I am not trying to be a dick but from reading your posts I don't think your understanding of suspension components is as good as you think it is. I can draw some diagrams to illustrate, or maybe we can just meet up at the next Ozhonda meet to discuss or something :thumbsup:.

[exquisit]

what do you work as mate?
=)


I see what you are saying, but i don't see how you can get a linear rate coil to do anything different from a loaded height. Apart from topping out the shock on rebound or droop.

Honestly, i don't want a keyboard war happening here, It's only going to mess this thread up further and i only came here to get some info as i'm buying a civic by the end of next week - just trying to give back where i can.

Suspension is my profession by the way. :thumbsup:

[senna]

Sales and development (falcons mostly as its my background) and i gt my hands dirty in the workshop when needed but thats pretty rare cos i'm too fat to work fast...lol

I'm proud of these:
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/senna_T/IMG_1692.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/senna_T/IMG_1694.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/senna_T/IMG_1430-1.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/senna_T/IMG_1434-1.jpg
Koni all alloy 2822 long body 4way adjustable race shocks

They Went into this:
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/senna_T/P7090089.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/senna_T/P7090090.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/senna_T/IMAG0029.jpg

[hazza78]

You guys have some good points. Not going to start a war, but the reasons why I chose the Yellow-speed as are follows:

1. They are made in Taiwan, so are all the others, even the Tanabe. If you think, or are trying to tell me they are made in Japan, your dreaming. They are all made in the same factory. Designed independantly.
2. They come highly recommended, by 4 independant suspensions outlets (best of the cheaper range).
3. They were $400 odd cheaper than the closest competitor.
4. My car will NEVER see a track, I wanted to be lower for looks, and have damper adjustment..
5. The main reason is the lower mounts are height adjustable, meaning regardless of how high/low I go, the shock travel is NEVER affected, and full travel is always maintained.

If I had a budget of 2k or over, obviously I would have chosen differently, but for around the $990, can't beat them.

Anyways, they have gone into my car, 25 clicks from, 20 rear. Found them to be firm but no bouncy at all. I backed them off to 15 click frot, and 10 rear. Now it is virtually like the Civic Sport stock ride. Slightly firm, no bounce. Even on the terrible Sydney streets, the car is sweet.

Waiting for my Camber arms to come in as I will be chewing through tyres on the rear. Camber is huge.

Thanks to Matt and Peter at Wholesale suspension Penrith. Awesome bunch of guys, honest, good price and good advice.

Will post pics of the suspension and car when I get the camber kit in.

[senna]

Good choice for a budget conscious product, good range of adjustment and priced where that type of product should be :thumbsup:

[hazza78]

208412084020839

[dougie_504]

What spring rates are they? Sounds interesting

[hazza78]

8kg on the front, 7kg on the rear. This is the new set they have, with firmer rear rates, and 50mm rear damper. The older set had 8kg front and 6kg rear, with a 46mm damper.

[Oxer]

No I am not kidding. Plenty of shocks do not limit droop travel, which is what you are doing when you "pre-load" your spring, the world doesn't end and they don't have springs lifting off spring seats during use or shock shafts getting bent because of it.

I don't know how else to state this: senna and I are correct, you are wrong. A linear spring is linear (sorta, the geometry of the ends and a few other effects make them somewhat non-linear) and by compressing (preloading) the spring further when the shock is at full droop you are only limiting the amount of droop travel. The spring's rate doesn't change. I am not trying to be a dick but from reading your posts I don't think your understanding of suspension components is as good as you think it is. I can draw some diagrams to illustrate, or maybe we can just meet up at the next Ozhonda meet to discuss or something :thumbsup:.

All good, What I was trying to say turns out to be the same thing the 3 of us are talking about. What I was trying to explain is that if the spring is wound up, it creates force which makes the shock "top out", therefore creating a rough ride... Therefore the rate in which the coilover rebounds at will change. The spring rate itself doesnt change as the material it is made out of doesnt change... Only when the diameter of the material or the number of coils is changed will the actual spring rate will change..

Since we are sharing pics...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7164/6556388125_7e6ede052e_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/oxerdan/6556388125/)

Suspension is also what I do, only with a little more adjustment then your standard form of coilover... :thumbsup:

[Move]

hi ozhonda forums,
yes, before you all gang up on me, ill say it, im a newb when it comes to modifying cars. anyway, i didnt want to make a new thread, and this existing one seemed appropriate...

so lately, ive been getting offers from people selling cheap parts for my cd accord 97, i have one offer sitting in my email inbox atm, for a set of shocks/coilovers, Front are Tein HA with cusco camber top and Rear are cusco Vancanza. now before i tell you guys the price, i just would like you guys honest opinion, on whether i should get this set for my car. what im after is to lower my car to a good looking height, but still have a comfortable/practical ride. im under the general consensus that coilovers are "stiffer" than there stock counterparts. im getting the coilovers for $380 shipped. is this price worth it? theyve been used for 6 months. am i even using all the right terms for this? sorry, im new to all of this lol.

if i were to buy them, should i go diy and install? or get them professionally done?

tl:dr, been offered $380 for tein and cusco shocks/coilovers, want to know if it is worth it, and is it what i am looking for? im new to the modifying scene, and want to do it right the first time. im after to lower my car, and have a comfrotable/practical ride.

if you guys need any more info to help me make an informed decision, just tell me :)

heres some piccy's
http://www.flickr.com/photos/73498149@N03/6633609497/in/photostream

thanks guys!

[kcokla]

hi ozhonda forums,
yes, before you all gang up on me, ill say it, im a newb when it comes to modifying cars. anyway, i didnt want to make a new thread, and this existing one seemed appropriate...

what im after is to lower my car to a good looking height, but still have a comfortable/practical ride. im under the general consensus that coilovers are "stiffer" than there stock counterparts. im getting the coilovers for $380 shipped. is this price worth it? theyve been used for 6 months.

\

tl:dr, been offered $380 for tein and cusco shocks/coilovers, want to know if it is worth it, and is it what i am looking for?
im new to the modifying scene, and want to do it right the first time. im after to lower my car, and have a comfrotable/practical ride.

if you guys need any more info to help me make an informed decision, just tell me :)



thanks guys!

$380 is awfully cheap - too cheap imo which makes me think theres something wrong.

secondly DIY is fine if - but since your new, just do some reading and ask questions - as many as you need its an easy job and should take you 45 minutes IF you have all the right tools but im guessing you dont if you have basic tools like a rachet set and a car jack and stands, should take you a couple of hours.
What are you planning to do with your car?
Race?Cruise?

If your just looking to lower, i would suggest some cheaper coilovers that are brand new, something like skunk2 or some koni's with some tein springs.
If your after a stiff ride - then more higher end brands make plenty of good coilovers such as buddyclubs, cusco, teins, etc.


ps the attachments you set up arnt working.

and to answer your overall question,
yes $380 sounds worth it if everything you've told us is legit.

[Move]

well, im looking for something just to cruise around in man, not planning on taking it to the track. ive been told that if anything goes wrong with them, i can get a full refund. the guy is trustworthy enough imho, ive bought off him before. so i think im gonna get them. im not doing anything outrageously stupid am i? lol
anyway, thanks for the input man.

updated previous post with links to pictures btw

[getm_up]

might be abit late, i have a 96 Ek Sedan and i bought a set of K-Sport Kontrol Pro Damper System for $1000 delivered. Some of my friends said they will be a bad coilover for my car, saying that the roughness will be bad for my daughter in the back.
Think they forgot that coilovers are adjustable for stiffness, daughter loves being in the car lol.
I think at 1 stage like yourself i came and posted about coilover and everyone will say pick this pick that. Dont forget they go on your car not theirs. Next honda meet check some peoples coilovers ask for a ride etc,

I myself went out and bought the K Sports and must say they ride bloody awesome, 10x better than my Tein Coilovers.
http://www.ksportusa.com/asp/coilovers_detail.asp?product_id=cd01
My mother has Pedders Coilovers that she bought for $1400 for her lancer and they ride just the same. Depend on the colour u want, features u want/need.

[GSi_PSi]

lol at ur mother buying coilovers........cool mum

[getm_up]

lol :D my whole family is into cars, i got my ek sedan, my older brother has a 94 accord, younger brother has eg hatch, my dad is buying a civic coupe, so only my mum is odd one out ahaha

[blastnpast]

Hit up JDMaccessories.com.au mate they can assist with any brand of coilovers are prices which are so low you couldn't even find elsewhere!!!!!