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View Full Version : Oil level very low, how to use engine oil flush + warm up before change



charliebrown
21-11-2011, 04:51 PM
So the car i recently bought has barely any oil in it, and it's black. I've always warmed up the car, let it cool for 30 minutes before i change oil cos apparently it drains out better quicker and leaves less shit in the sump. Engine oil flush says to put in a bottle, let car idle for 15 minutes.

But running a car on almost no oil will snap some shit up. So what do i do?! If i don't flush it there's gonna be a whole lot of gunk stuck in there.

dc2r-0636
21-11-2011, 05:38 PM
If u can afford, put in a half decent oil in, (4 litres worth) run the car on that go for a drive, then drop that oil and put ur favourite oil in. I wouldn't use engine oil flush, coz it can do more harm then good

Fredoops
21-11-2011, 06:01 PM
Problem if that you might now know what grade of oil is in there at the moment... You don't want to mix different grades in there AND then run the engine.

What you might wanna do is do:
1. Get your fav engine oil
2 get a cheapest bottle of engine oil (get a large bottle)
3 do a cold oil change, use the cheap oil to wash down the old oil.
4. Fill oil using cheap oil.
5. do normal/warm oil change with ur fav oil

I use oil flush and it turned out okay.

dc2r-0636
21-11-2011, 06:10 PM
I agree with above, but using a cheap oil ur bak to where u started.. With shit oil still in there

Fredoops
21-11-2011, 06:13 PM
I agree with above, but using a cheap oil ur bak to where u started.. With shit oil still in there

True, but it's gonna be flushed out in like 15 min anyway, at least it's new/fresh oil. :-)

dougie_504
21-11-2011, 06:43 PM
Just drive it home. Even on the 'low' point of the dip stick your engine still has a large majority of it's total oil capacity. It'll be fine to drive it home. Then change the oil. Personally I don't recommend flushing out with cheap oil, I think it's a WOTAM, but do it if you're really worried. Otherwise just service every 5,000KMs from now on.

TheSaint
21-11-2011, 09:04 PM
i just did a flush on an SI yesterday
i used Sonax engine oil flush

following the instructions i did the following...
warmed car for 10mins
put in Sonax engine oil flush (with the old oil still in)
ran car for 10mins
turned off car and jacked up front using jack stands
opened oil cap and put an old cut out oil bucket under the sump
cracked the sump bolt and let drain for 15mins
removed the old oil filter by hand and let drain for another 5mins
put car into 4th gear and turned the wheel to crank over the engine a few times
put a smear of oil on the seal of a new OEM Honda Blue oil filter and hand tightened it onto the engine
removed the annhilated washer from the sump plug (looked like it hadnt been changed in 10 years sigh)
replaced sump plug washer with new one and re-installed sump plug
let car back down off jack stands and jack
put in 3ltrs of OEM Honda FEO 10w30 (D16a8 takes about 3.3-3.5)
started car - let run for 10mins
turned off car and checked levels (oil filter needs to fill)
topped up to right level and winnah

we also put in a batch of Nulon Total fuel cleaner and a tank of Caltex 98
and i gave the throttlebody and intake manifold a good blast with TB cleaner

hope this helps

charliebrown
21-11-2011, 09:24 PM
Andy, it is at home. I just roll the car back and forth whenever i need to do anything so i dont have to start it. Whenever i turn the key to ON position, the oil light comes on. Dip stick is below the 'low' dot. I guess i'll just have to do a cold oil change. I've only got about 6L of oil so that's not enough for 2 fills, and probably not worth it.

Saint, i don't understand this. Clarify please?
"put car into 4th gear and turned the wheel to crank over the engine a few times"

TheSaint
21-11-2011, 10:13 PM
move the cylinders up and down and turn over the oil pump which is connected to the crank
every time i did it - more oil came out =)

charliebrown
21-11-2011, 10:16 PM
In normal persons english? looool

EKVTIR-T
21-11-2011, 10:23 PM
He means with the car on jackstands put the gearbox in 4th and rotate the raised wheels which makes the engine and oil pump crank/rotate,thereby pumping out remaining oil

charliebrown
21-11-2011, 10:33 PM
Oh i understand now. Cheers boiz.

Limbo
21-11-2011, 11:19 PM
seriously if you can't afford to our oil to flush it just remove the current oil pour oil in and drive it. I sounds like its an old car anyway, and if its that low its been burning oil like crazy.

either way its better to have any oil in it than no oil.
Also its not a problem mixing oils, it won't do any more damage to your car than wat its seems like it has anyway. Worse that happens is your running abit thick and it consumes abit more fuel.
Oil = better than no oil

charliebrown
21-11-2011, 11:21 PM
Yeah i don't know why the oil is low and disappearing. There is no oil leaks, and no smoke coming from exhaust. Any ideas on where the oil could be running off to?

GSi_PSi
21-11-2011, 11:27 PM
How do you know the car doesnt smoke?. My bet is it smokes on vtec, get someone to drive it hard and watch it from behind

Limbo
21-11-2011, 11:32 PM
most likely blowby thru o rings.
Its common on most old cars

charliebrown
21-11-2011, 11:35 PM
Tachos ****ed, so i don't even know if the car's bashing the limiter let alone when it's in vtec hahah

Limbo
21-11-2011, 11:41 PM
if it has vtec you'll hear it its pretty obvious when you hit it.

charliebrown
21-11-2011, 11:43 PM
Pretty sure the d16y1 has no obvious vtec roar

TheSaint
21-11-2011, 11:50 PM
it doesnt matter if you have a tacho or not - the car will still valve bounce when you hit the limiter
and if theres an intake kit on the D16y1 (pod filter) you will still be able to hear the difference with vtec - just not as pronounced as a B16 or B18
its more of a smooth change over like the K20

if the engine has had a thinner oil in it like hondas FEO Ultra 5w30 it may start to seep a little and evaporate off
i put a batch of Ultra through my D15 at 305k kms and it cleaned out all the gunk but started seeping out everywhere lol
changed back to FEO 10w30 at 310k kms and its been fine ever since

just keep an eye on it =)

charliebrown
21-11-2011, 11:55 PM
Ill do a cold oil change first. Then ill take it for a drive and get someone to follow behind. And just keep an eye on it for a few weeks, see if im losing oil anywhere. Will be using 10w-40

GSi_PSi
21-11-2011, 11:58 PM
k20 doesnt have a vtec crossover like a d16y mate lol why do people make this assumption ? the crossover has a deeper tone if not louder vs b series
you can barely hear the crossover in the d16y1, especially if hes got an louder than stock exhaust. If hes only got intake then yeah you would hear it.

EKVTIR-T
22-11-2011, 12:06 AM
with a short ram the k20 crossover isnt mild at all..
a d16 is nowhere near that


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nqvand1_ux8

TheSaint
22-11-2011, 12:31 AM
k20 doesnt have a vtec crossover like a d16y mate lol why do people make this assumption ? the crossover has a deeper tone if not louder vs b series
you can barely hear the crossover in the d16y1, especially if hes got an louder than stock exhaust. If hes only got intake then yeah you would hear it.

what i mean is that its a smoother than B series sound change - the actual crossover is not the same
not milder - smoother

the sohc vtec is still the hardest to hear because the vtec lobes only effect the intake side of the engine
if the car only has a pod filter / intake kit on it - you should be able to hear it

Bludger
22-11-2011, 06:13 AM
I wouldn't use oil flush.

Do like post #2

doesn't matter viscosity. just run it 15 mins.

empty and then fill with your preferred oil.

Don't let it cool too much, feel the sump, empty as hot as you can stand the temperature.

subie
22-11-2011, 09:00 AM
He means with the car on jackstands put the gearbox in 4th and rotate the raised wheels which makes the engine and oil pump crank/rotate,thereby pumping out remaining oil
Sorry for a noob , when you said rotate the fronts wheels , by hands ? or start the engine ?


I wouldn't use oil flush.
why most people don't recommended using oil flush ? any reason ?

Cheers

trism
22-11-2011, 09:10 AM
By hand. Why the shit would you crank over a motor that has no oil at all in it? Best way to destroy it.


Here's what I'd do.
Just do a cold change. New filter, and put appropriate grade diesel oil in it. Diesel oil contains more detergents and scrubbing agents then petrol oil. Run that for about 1000kms. Then do your proper warm change with whatever oil you normally use.

vtecing
22-11-2011, 12:50 PM
When I buy a new car, and sometimes these new cars have had BLACK oil, I just do a regular oil change with my preferred oil, dump it after 500kms then put fresh oil in and change every 5k

aaronng
22-11-2011, 01:49 PM
Seriously, just go and buy some 10w-40 or 10w-30 oil. Mineral is fine, something like Mobil Super 2000. Put the car on jackstands, drain the oil and replace the oil filter. Don't need to crank or warm the engine up. Fill it back up to the proper oil level with that cheap oil and drive around for a week. So the next weekend, you can then replace the oil with proper stuff that you would normally use (I recommend changing the oil filter as well if you suspect the engine is filthy as it is now).

aaronng
22-11-2011, 01:51 PM
why most people don't recommended using oil flush ? any reason ?


It is a very thin oily liquid, almost like diesel. While it gets the crap off, it is able to get the smaller particles into the bearing surfaces, causing long term damage. So don't use it. You are better off driving for a week on cheap 5w-30 or 10w-40 engine oil.

Bludger
22-11-2011, 03:00 PM
why most people don't recommended using oil flush ? any reason ?

CheersI found out the hard way....

motor became chunder.

subie
22-11-2011, 07:08 PM
It is a very thin oily liquid, almost like diesel. While it gets the crap off, it is able to get the smaller particles into the bearing surfaces, causing long term damage. So don't use it. You are better off driving for a week on cheap 5w-30 or 10w-40 engine oil.

Sorry for the noob again but should the smaller particles get filtered by the oil filter before they get into the bearing surfaces ?

aaronng
22-11-2011, 10:00 PM
Sorry for the noob again but should the smaller particles get filtered by the oil filter before they get into the bearing surfaces ?
No, the engine flush will go through the oil filter first, then into your engine where it dislodges all the crap and that is when it gets into the bearings. Then only does the engine flush fall back into the sump to be sucked up by the oil pump and through the filter. Repeat.

EKVTIR-T
22-11-2011, 10:02 PM
Yes Mr Spoon even advises to avoid engine oil flush so we must follow his word


To OP you're overthinking it. If you can,drop the sump and let the remaining oil drop over night or a few hours at least.Put it all back together and use a cheap oil for a week then dump it and put a better replacement in. Job done

dougie_504
23-11-2011, 03:26 PM
Y1 VTEC is quite noticeable, especially with a pod. I know this because I have one for my DD with a CAI and I VTEC it all the time. Nothing on a cam'd B16 but it's not like you need a hearing aid...

TheSaint
23-11-2011, 06:17 PM
Y1 VTEC is quite noticeable, especially with a pod. I know this because I have one for my DD with a CAI and I VTEC it all the time. Nothing on a cam'd B16 but it's not like you need a hearing aid...

same story for the D16z6, D15b and D16y8

charliebrown
23-11-2011, 07:59 PM
Anyway i changed the oil, all good. Some wanker screwed the filter on so tight but managed to get it off after ages with the help of some sand paper. Awkward as position.

Still have the tacho issue to fix. Goes spastic when i gas a bit harder. Been told it's to do with the ICM or dizzy cap but not too good with electric stuff in there.

dc2r-0636
23-11-2011, 10:26 PM
If its too tight just get hammer a screw driver thru the end oil filter then just turn it using the screwdriver.
And ur tacho jumping is most likely ur ICM

Bludger
24-11-2011, 05:54 AM
Anyway i changed the oil, all good. Some wanker screwed the filter on so tight but managed to get it off after ages with the help of some sand paper. Awkward as position.

Still have the tacho issue to fix. Goes spastic when i gas a bit harder. Been told it's to do with the ICM or dizzy cap but not too good with electric stuff in there.
soon, you will enjoy working on your vehicles.