Opinions on purchasing high mileage s2000

[onehan]

Hello ozhonda members,
I got quite interested in s2000 and found one that I could afford.
I did some research on s2000 every night but I am no expert and want you pros' opinion. :)


The car I am looking is 1999 model with 170k km.
The car comes with adjustable coilovers and swaybars, which makes me think that this car was used mainly as a daily car and some occassional tracking.

I am about to do the same, but I am planning to stay on this car for 5~10 years before I would have to change to a new car.
Will the car last long enough with maintaining good performance?
The owner claims to have log books.. are there any parts that I should change soon that's not part of the regular services?
(I heard TCT and valve change... but I don't know too much about cars :()


I want to know as much as I can before I pay a mechanic to check the car.
(And I cannot check the car before mechanic does since its a interstate car)

Cheers! :D

[Mikecivic78]

Welcome abourd my noob friend!

170,000 is nothing, but make sure the car is priced accordingly.

If it has been well maintained and hasn't been raped day in and out, the engine should go strong until at least 300,000kms. At this age, I would recommend oil changes every 5K.

Log book can be fudged, so don't trust them. If the guy has actual service receipts, you are on the right track.

And lastly, IMO buying interstate isn't worth the hassle, unless it's an ultra rare car.

[aozora]

Basically what Mikecivic78 said, if the car (engine wise) has remained standard it's whole life, then 170k is not much to worry about. I would be more concerned about the chassis regarding accidents as you can't exactly swap out a chassis easily as opposed to an engine or other components :)
Engine wise, retainers are the common item to go. If you do send it to a mechanic, run a compression test, take the valve cover off and look around.

And yeah, if it's interstate - too much risk and time involved to buy it.

[JamieP]

170 is nothing for an s2k providing it's been well maintained. It all depends on how well it's been taken care of. I know a guy who purchased one with 180 on the clock and it's in A1 nick and I know another guy who purchased one that only had 90 and it ended up needing a full engine rebuild. So it really depends on the cars individual history. But I personally wouldn't be worried about those k's

[garett]

If you are concerned I would have it checked by someone who knows what they are talking about.

I bought mine with 100000 and have put 45000 on it.
I change the oil every 5000 and check it every time I wash the car (weekly) car runs a treat.

I wouldn't be concerned with the km's but more with how it runs.

[Ferrari]

Id also be concerned with resale and maintenance, if you plan on keeping at car 5-10 years with an average of 15k kms a year (min) it will have well over 300k kms on it when it comes time to sell. Why not save- delayed gratification until you can buy a low k/m example if you have long ownership aspirations?

I bought my first S at 22k kms and sold it at 107 k kms 6 years later. Now on the second one at 8k kms so I can see myself easily keeping it 10 years if I wanted too.

Unless the car is very cheap I wouldnt bother, again just my opinion.

[Mikecivic78]

Where r u OP?

I disagree Ferrari, too many people care about low mileage over condition.

A car with higher ks (as well as it's been maintained) is much better value than a car with less than 100,000 on it. As long as they are priced accordingly, they will depreciate slower than a low mileage/newer one. General rule is the older/more ks, the slower it depreciates.

If you have long ownership aspirations, I think that mileage is irrelevant, unelss it has more than 240,000km on it.

[catacaustic]

I was in the same boat as you, and my 1999 S had even higher k's on it. When I bought it it was around 185,000km's. It was, and still is, stock standard as far as any mechanicals go. It has the full service history, and I bought it from interstate. I did make sure to have a reputable mechanic give it a very good once over. i got back a 9-10 page report on the car that listed every little detail that was wrong with it, but in reality all it needed was a new clutch. When I got that changed (at around 210,000k's) the shop said that it was the original factory clutch that they pulled out.

KM's on these cars don't mean a big deal. Sure, it looks better for resale value if it's lower k's, but are you buying the car for you, or for the next owner? As MikeCivic78 said, if you are going to own it for a while, the mileage is really irrelevant. Although I'm not to sure his figure is right... Mine is coming up to 220,000 now and it's still very good and I'm sure that it's going to go for a lot longer then another 20,000k's. For my driving that's only another year. I also get the people at Honda telling me how good it is every time it's serviced, so it can't be to bad.

The only thing it comes down to is one question... Are you happy to pay whatever the price is for that particular car? If you are then go for it. If you are unsure, then wait. I had to go through 6 S2000's before I found mine, and all of them had lower k's but were all in not-quite-as-good condition, so I know that patience pays off.

[JDM-Panda]

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/honda-s2000-1999-11003681?cr=2&distance=25&vertical=Car&eapi=2&page=1&sort=~Price&__N=1216%201246%201247%201252%201282%204294965322% 204294964924%20898&silo=Stock&Range=Price:Min,Max~1

Is that the one you're after? Well think it might have had a respray on the front bar seeing as the fog light inserts are sprayed red as well

[onehan]

Thank you everyone, it was really helpful.
I live in Adelaide so it has to be interstate purchase.. Can't do much here.
And the link jdm posted, yes that's correct.
You see things so much better than me haha.
Totally didn't see the respray thing

[Nismo3oi]

That car is missing the front oem lip and the front bumper has been resprayed, so it has had damage to the front end.

[lilthug]

I want to know as much as I can before I pay a mechanic to check the car.
(And I cannot check the car before mechanic does since its a interstate car)

Cheers! :D


you could get stateroads or similar independant car inspection services to check over the car for you

[Mikecivic78]

Did they come with front lips or as an option?

[catacaustic]

In Sydney, this is the guy that I had look at mine. He is good. Very good.

http://www.carinspections.com.au/

He looked at it, and sent a 8-page report through as well as pictures... It covered everything that could be done without pulling the mechanicals to bits. The people that I bought the car from were so impressed with him that they got him to look at the next car that they wanted to buy.

And Mike, I believe that the rear spoiler and front lip were options. I know that they weren't standard - if they were there'd be a LOT more of them on the road today. From what I've seen it's a majority that have the front lip if they have the rear spoiler, but if they don't have a rear spoiler then they won't have the front lip because people normally bought both as a set when they got the car new

[Bruunz]

Hey,

I bought mine a year ago with with 160K on it (2001 Model). When i bought it was fine but be prepared to spend a little. The list of things i have done are as follows and i've only put 7K kms on it since:

New Clutch (honda OEM kit with flywheel (flywheel is balanced so i wouldnt go machining your existing one) $1200 parts only)
Every oil and filter replaced and an overall check of the car ($800)
New softtop coz the original with plastic looked horrible ($900 canvas with glass - no defogger inc shipping parts only)

One of my diff mounts is broken and since my car is quite low CV's / Axles are on the way out. So i'm organising my diff to to be pulled apart and checked before i get parts for it.
Customs axles will be $1600ish and depends how the internals of my diff are i might have to spend more. Then you start thinking... since the diff is out.. do i buy that new final gear or that 2 way LSD???

Just remember that even though it is in good condition, you will need to spend money to keep it that way. After all it is over 10 years old stuff will break / wear out.

Almost thought my power window motor was on the way out too... luckily a good clean of the windows fixed that.

[aozora]

Hey,

I bought mine a year ago with with 160K on it (2001 Model). When i bought it was fine but be prepared to spend a little. The list of things i have done are as follows and i've only put 7K kms on it since:

New Clutch (honda OEM kit with flywheel (flywheel is balanced so i wouldnt go machining your existing one) $1200 parts only)
Every oil and filter replaced and an overall check of the car ($800)
New softtop coz the original with plastic looked horrible ($900 canvas with glass - no defogger inc shipping parts only)

One of my diff mounts is broken and since my car is quite low CV's / Axles are on the way out. So i'm organising my diff to to be pulled apart and checked before i get parts for it.
Customs axles will be $1600ish and depends how the internals of my diff are i might have to spend more. Then you start thinking... since the diff is out.. do i buy that new final gear or that 2 way LSD???

Just remember that even though it is in good condition, you will need to spend money to keep it that way. After all it is over 10 years old stuff will break / wear out.

Almost thought my power window motor was on the way out too... luckily a good clean of the windows fixed that.

Just out of curiousity, what leads your mechanic to believe that your driveshafts/joints are going? OR your diff for that matter?
Is it shuddering/vibrating when you accelerate at certain speeds? Is there too much free play up/down, left/right in the driveshaft?

Diff mount bushes would be normal at 160k since they're liquid filled bushes and soft as a teddy bear...! Upgrade to stiffer diff mount bushes, throttle response will improve :)

[Bruunz]

Just out of curiousity, what leads your mechanic to believe that your driveshafts/joints are going? OR your diff for that matter?
Is it shuddering/vibrating when you accelerate at certain speeds? Is there too much free play up/down, left/right in the driveshaft?

Diff mount bushes would be normal at 160k since they're liquid filled bushes and soft as a teddy bear...! Upgrade to stiffer diff mount bushes, throttle response will improve :)

I have a shuddering generally after 60KM/H under load. Also, when i park front end to kerb and i do it fast enough, i get the knocking sound you hear in a FWD.

[aozora]

I have a shuddering generally after 60KM/H under load. Also, when i park front end to kerb and i do it fast enough, i get the knocking sound you hear in a FWD.

I had the same issue. Basically theres a few fixes...
New driveshafts but thats $$$
Driveshaft spacers, cheap and positions the driveshafts properly for a lowered car
Swapping the driveshaft cups left to right, labour intensive but same results

Check it out... Could save you $1600 haha.

The knocking sound could be the differential mounts OR your axle nuts not being at the proper torque setting. Honda release a TSB about it. I'll try to find the link if I get a minute. Otherwise the knocking could also be loose bolts/nuts in your suspension...

I just went through this so let me know if you need a hand :)

[Bruunz]

I had the same issue. Basically theres a few fixes...
New driveshafts but thats $$$
Driveshaft spacers, cheap and positions the driveshafts properly for a lowered car
Swapping the driveshaft cups left to right, labour intensive but same results

Check it out... Could save you $1600 haha.

The knocking sound could be the differential mounts OR your axle nuts not being at the proper torque setting. Honda release a TSB about it. I'll try to find the link if I get a minute. Otherwise the knocking could also be loose bolts/nuts in your suspension...

I just went through this so let me know if you need a hand :)

I was speaking to ALPS about it. For $1600 i can get custom axles with inner and outer CVs. The car is lowered but if i get these axles i wont need spacers (apparantly).
I also intend to start going to the track once i replace the axles / check the diff so the customs axles are looking like the good option as i never want to think about axles ever again lol.

[aozora]

New axles will have the exact same problem in time. I personally don't understand why you'd waste $1600 when there are simpler other options out there... Your call but I personally would advise it :) Check out info on s2ki.

And be careful when getting advice from inexperienced S2000 people, especially mechanics - most likely they're trying to make a sale :p

Good luck!

[Bruunz]

New axles will have the exact same problem in time. I personally don't understand why you'd waste $1600 when there are simpler other options out there... Your call but I personally would advise it :) Check out info on s2ki.

And be careful when getting advice from inexperienced S2000 people, especially mechanics - most likely they're trying to make a sale :p

Good luck!

That's why i'm waiting for my diff to be pulled apart so i can see what needs done and what not. i don't think my brother will try to rip me off :) If my axles need to be reconditioned id rather just buy these newer ones. If i can avoid going somewhere that will incur a labour fee then i will try and avoid if possible.

[aozora]

Didn't mean to offend by any means, I just see alot of mechanics trying to sell rather than genuinely help people.

Have a read through this :)

http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/693173-driveshaft-spacer-necessary-for-lowered-car/

[Bruunz]

Didn't mean to offend by any means, I just see alot of mechanics trying to sell rather than genuinely help people.

Have a read through this :)

http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/693173-driveshaft-spacer-necessary-for-lowered-car/

no offence taken :) takes a lot to offend me lol.

thanks for the link, ill have a read through it.