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View Full Version : DC5R blowing smoke, making wierd noise.



DC2ahh
25-11-2011, 03:46 PM
hey guys,
Was driving mates DC5R before, all of a sudden a burst of white smoke starting coming out of the exhaust.

The smoke eventually stopped after about 30 seconds, and then every time i accelerated the car would make a weird noise, kind of like a weird ticking noise.

Any ideas on what the problem could be ? im thinking maybe Head Gasket ?

stndrd
25-11-2011, 04:37 PM
It could be a number of different things. A bit hard to say without inspecting first. If you are able to get it to Glen Waverly tomorrow morning I would be happy to have a look at it for you. PM if you would like to make arrangements

trism
25-11-2011, 04:50 PM
Ticking noise is normally either big end bearings, or something in the valve train.

When did the smoke happen? At rev limiter?

DakDak
25-11-2011, 04:55 PM
Just a basic run down, is it 100% white or whitish blue? Blue smoke is bad. Means possibly your piston rings are gone and need replacing. Expensive. If its just white could be a number of things, its usually is the head gasket. Coolant runs around through your engine and the head gasket keeps it out of the combustion chamber, if smoke is white then it may be cause coolant is getting inside the a/f mix and making that white smoke.

Check your oil for discoloration. If it is a brownish color it could mean your oil and coolant are mixing which is bad stuffing your bearings, could explain that ticking noise?

If you have an air compressor, remove one of the spark plugs and the radiator cap. Fill the radiator and then push some air into the sparkplug hole (get a good seal in case a valve is open). Repeat with all the cylinders and watch for air bubbles coming up into the radiator. If bubbles come up or fluid is pumped out, the head gasket is blown and must be replaced.

DC2ahh
25-11-2011, 05:30 PM
Also after this happened i got home. I check the oil level on the dip and showed there was no oil :(
My last service was about 2 months ago, and i had been having a leak somewhere but didnt think much of it...

DakDak
25-11-2011, 07:38 PM
Thats a big naughty no no. You can really damage your engine or worse blow it up with no oil to lubricate working parts.

stndrd
25-11-2011, 07:39 PM
If you have no oil it means the oil being used is too thin and burning off very quickly. The ticking noise could be from the cylinder head not getting lubricated properly due to lack of oil

dc2r-0636
25-11-2011, 08:02 PM
What grade oil was put in ? Drain wateva oil is left in the sump and put in a 10w-40 see how u go, keep checking it every morning to see if it's burning. Also where is this oil leak coming from ?

OMG.JAI xD
28-11-2011, 09:07 PM
1. Your head gasket popped. Semi-hydrolocked the engine. Possible bore scuffed.
2. Too much oil was put in (top up), entered the cylinder and spun a bearing.
3. Went over a puddle and picked up water. Hydrolocked engine. Spun bearing. F4cked. (if fitted with CAI)
Edit: read the post about oil leak.
4. Something has let go (sump plug was loose and eventually came off. Oil filter wasnt on tight etc) Engine has lost nearly all its oil. Bye bye engine.

Minimal damage is at least cylinder head off IMO. Doesnt sound good.


What grade oil was put in ? Drain wateva oil is left in the sump and put in a 10w-40 see how u go, keep checking it every morning to see if it's burning. Also where is this oil leak coming from ?

K20's dont do too well with 10w-40. Sh!t quality oil. Too thick for start up and not a very big range.
5w-30 is best for k20.
0w-40 or 5w-40 for a regularly thrashed k20.
5w-50 for a f4cked/tired/worn k20 or fitted with a turbo/supercharger.
20w-50 for a k20 that is near at the end of its life cycle.
Manual gearbox oil, For the desperate moment of going home, knowing your engine is f4cked. (not enough money for tow truck).

tripleuse
28-11-2011, 09:14 PM
i wouldnt think of it as a bad thing, k24 time ! :D!

dc2r-0636
28-11-2011, 09:50 PM
First number doesn't matter in australia, how often do you start your car in -18 degrees ?

OMG.JAI xD
05-12-2011, 09:23 PM
First number doesn't matter in australia, how often do you start your car in -18 degrees ?

First number does matter in some sense.

The wider the range of oil the more it is resistant to wear.

Its not 2 seperate number when looking for oil. Its both put together and it will formulate certain qualities, each suited to a certain condition.

WATAJK
08-12-2011, 05:09 AM
1. Your head gasket popped. Semi-hydrolocked the engine. Possible bore scuffed.
2. Too much oil was put in (top up), entered the cylinder and spun a bearing.
3. Went over a puddle and picked up water. Hydrolocked engine. Spun bearing. F4cked. (if fitted with CAI)
Edit: read the post about oil leak.
4. Something has let go (sump plug was loose and eventually came off. Oil filter wasnt on tight etc) Engine has lost nearly all its oil. Bye bye engine.

Minimal damage is at least cylinder head off IMO. Doesnt sound good.



K20's dont do too well with 10w-40. Sh!t quality oil. Too thick for start up and not a very big range.
5w-30 is best for k20.
0w-40 or 5w-40 for a regularly thrashed k20.
5w-50 for a f4cked/tired/worn k20 or fitted with a turbo/supercharger.
20w-50 for a k20 that is near at the end of its life cycle.
Manual gearbox oil, For the desperate moment of going home, knowing your engine is f4cked. (not enough money for tow truck).

Don't use 10w-40 in a K20A?
For one, this is what all DC5 owners recommend and two even Honda use 10w-40 for there services so i think your comment doesn't work.
Honda wouldn't recommend 10w-40 unless it wasn't appropriate.

5w-30 is way to thin as IMO i think it burns up to quick.