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Temp3st
06-12-2011, 09:06 AM
Mods please close.

dougie_504
06-12-2011, 09:59 AM
Maybe a dizzy (tacho) or plug (accelerating) problem?

Temp3st
06-12-2011, 12:11 PM
Yeah ill check that when I get home. Just another problem to add to the mix, should never have bought the,swap off the douchebag in Sydney, so much shit has,gone wrong/been broken/not fit/missing

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u mad?
06-12-2011, 01:30 PM
That sucks man, who did you buy it off?

Temp3st
06-12-2011, 01:38 PM
Member of here under the name of <edited>, wish I had kept a copy of his ad too so I had proof his "110% complete swap" was more like 65% with a whole bunch of broken shit

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IV73CI
06-12-2011, 01:41 PM
Are you using an aftermarket ECU or any Fuel/Ignition Controllers?? I.E Apexi PFC, Hondata, VAFC, AEM, Piggy Backs etc?

What you are experiencing is what they call idle/rpm "Hunting".

"Hunting" is caused by one or several factors as below;

- faulty/dirty TPS/MAP sensors
- incorrect fuel/ignition mapping/settings
- faulty spark plugs / leads
- loose/damaged/missing vacume hoses
- incorrect fuel pressure (if you have a fuel pressure reg fitted).
- faulty/dirty injectors.
- faulty dizzy/contact rotor
- car could be running in limbo/safe mode.

You will need to check first if your using an OEM or aftermarket ECU, if your using OEM, then only some of the above may apply to u.

do you get any CEL codes?

Temp3st
06-12-2011, 02:08 PM
I don't think its hunting as such, it feels more like it's not igniting properly cause its fine at certain rev ranges and fine at idle. It's calmed down a lot more so it couldve just been moisture somewhere as it's been raining here, its a lot better now
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IV73CI
06-12-2011, 02:13 PM
I don't think its hunting as such, it feels more like it's not igniting properly cause its fine at certain rev ranges and fine at idle. It's calmed down a lot more so it couldve just been moisture somewhere as it's been raining here, its a lot better now
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could just be crappy fuel ... or some rubbish in the fuel.

change your fuel filter ...that would help.

Temp3st
06-12-2011, 02:29 PM
Yeah ill be putting fuel in this week from a different servo cause it's been on going for a few weeks getting better and worse somedays. I don't think its fuel though cause that wouldn't cause the tacho to be retarded

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dc2r-0636
06-12-2011, 03:31 PM
ICM in the dizzy 100%

Or buy a dizzy off eBay, distributor king are good, or buy off aip electronics website, around $150 tops

dougie_504
06-12-2011, 04:19 PM
Dizzy King are under a new distributor name now. I can't remember exactly what it is but will post up if I do.

dc2r-0636
06-12-2011, 04:23 PM
Havnt looked them up in ages, thanks for the correction.
Get your dizzy code and type it in google for identification then eBay to find it.

If its obd2 then it should be either td81u, td84u, td86u, td87u, all will work with b series vtec engines that are obd2

charliebrown
06-12-2011, 05:47 PM
Sorry for intruding on Temp3st's thread, but is it worth just buying a new dizzy (you said $150ish). OEM dizzy cap and rotor is $140 already. No need to open it up etc

mooshie
06-12-2011, 08:34 PM
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?157350-EG-tacho-bouncing-and-shuddering-launch&highlight=Tachometer+jumping

Temp3st
06-12-2011, 09:09 PM
Yeah see mine isn't just a retarded tacho, it will accelerate erratically when the tacho does that, so it could very well be the TPS. New distributor hmmmm that could make sense too I guess, I'll have to check those people mentioned above out, the car is going back to the mechanic's next week for check up so I'll just go through it all with him then

Benson
06-12-2011, 09:56 PM
If the tacho is spastic, could be the dizzy

If the speedo is spastic, VSS might need replacing

Temp3st
06-12-2011, 10:56 PM
Speedo is fine, only the tacho. Any way of testing the dizzy?

dougie_504
07-12-2011, 09:22 AM
Speedo is fine, only the tacho. Any way of testing the dizzy?


Get a friend to come over and just test-swap

Temp3st
07-12-2011, 12:40 PM
Mmmm now all I have to do is find someone with a b series on the sunshine coast :P I'll give my mate a call cheers

dc2r-0636
07-12-2011, 05:22 PM
Make sure u have ignition timing correct After u swap em ova

Temp3st
07-12-2011, 05:25 PM
Yeah I had a mechanic do it, everything was checked and double checked before everything was put in and started up and whatnot

mooshie
07-12-2011, 09:10 PM
Just do the dielectric grease on the ICM connections costs about $3 and a bit of your time and if it doesn't work you can go from there. I had the exact same issue you are describing on my b16a and this fixed it. Car was accelerating badly to 2000rpm then would go ok then hit VTEC and be sluggish, just shit in general! Tachometer was bouncing all over the place as well.

Btw, you can get the grease from any computer or electronics shop such as Jaycar. Dunno about auto shops

Temp3st
07-12-2011, 10:41 PM
Dad is assistant manager at Jaycar rofl I'll try that asap thanks mooshie!

Temp3st
23-01-2012, 10:42 PM
okay so even though I deleted the original post lol >< Its still causing the exact same problem D: gonna change the plugs n stuff this week as well as injector cleaner and see how that goes

dougie_504
25-01-2012, 05:50 PM
Fingers crossed mate! I had some idle/stalling issues when I switched to ITR fuel rail/injectors and some injector cleaner fixed it up. Not sure about erratic acceleration though.