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charliebrown
19-12-2011, 04:04 PM
Hey guys, just got a few questions.

LHS (not torn)

http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/2857/20111219164733.jpg

RHS (torn)

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/4589/20111219164927.jpg

When the wheel turns, the boot should move along with the rack with it but since it's ripped it doesn't and thus exposes it to water/dust.

I recently had the gearbox opened and clutch replaced. The process requires moving this out of the way correct? Just wondering if that could have led to this. The boot was not torn beforehand. (or if it was the mechanic should have seen it during the gearbox dropping?)

Is it necessary to fix this? I've read that water/dust can get in and damage internal components of the steering rack, resulting in a costly repair bill down the track.

Thanks in advance for any useful information

markismaximus
19-12-2011, 04:12 PM
Not likely they would've cut the boot, it would be of no benefit to them.

Yes you need to fix it to prevent contaminants from entering the rack and causing damage as you mentioned.

here is a DIY on it

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?102708-DIY-Steering-Rack-Boot-Replacement-%28EG-Civic%29

mugen_ctr
19-12-2011, 04:20 PM
You shouldnt need to remove the steering rack nor cut anything to remove the clutch an gb at all....

Sorry to say man, but if it wasnt torn prior to you dropping off the car, than they obvious something happened either they had no idea on removing and installing a gb on a civic or they took short cuts or something else lol....

charliebrown
19-12-2011, 04:48 PM
When i was reading up on DIY clutch install, i came across an article that required unbolting and moving LCA, cv joints etc to remove the axle from the transmission, all in the same region.

http://www.honda-acura.net/diys/civic_clutch_n_flywheel/11.jpg

But i guess i'll just replace the boot to be safe. Reckon head down to honda and get OEM? Any idea how much it is? Bit late now to ring them up, if anyone knows off the top of their head let me know.

mugen_ctr
19-12-2011, 05:33 PM
jus get it from repco, jus easier an much cheaper than goin oem

senna
19-12-2011, 07:50 PM
Rack boots tear very commonly, its just wear and tear mate :thumbsup:

migoreng
19-12-2011, 09:20 PM
Just to let you know, over the last year I've replaced most of my boots..

Passenger outer cv...then one steering boot.. then the other ripped...

Then the passenger inner cv boot...Lol


Car is a 97 prelude with 250k+ km...
Next time ill change both driver side cv boots...

OMG.JAI xD
19-12-2011, 09:29 PM
Honda steering rack boots arent the best designed boots.

Common issue. Just replace. 2 minute job.

migoreng
19-12-2011, 09:38 PM
2 mins? Lol...anyways..Hannys do their repairs quick..whenever I had a torn boot, I was in and out in about 25mins..

egb16b
20-12-2011, 06:01 AM
Steering rack boot easy to replace..but def get it replaced. No doubt about it.

Let me know if you need a hand.

charliebrown
22-12-2011, 08:48 PM
Had a crack at this today thinking it was easy... everything is frickin stuck.

The tie rod end nut is fused with the outer tie rod so i can't loosen the nut

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/2293/photo0053ix.jpg

And the ball joint is stuck on the hub carrier. Tried going at it with a hammer but still stuck.

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/1732/photo0055y.jpg

Any ideas?

senna
22-12-2011, 08:56 PM
Tie rod ends can be a bitch, persist with the hammer and it will eventually come out of the hub.

Try soaking the tie rod end nut with a penetrating lubricant and leave it a little while then try again with a longer spanner if you have access to them.

charliebrown
22-12-2011, 09:08 PM
I'll give WD-40 a go on the nut. Using an adjustable spanner as i don't have a 22mm open ended. And another smaller open ended on the outer tie rod to push opposite way.

Is the nut supposed to turn left or right to move towards the inner tie rod

dorikin
22-12-2011, 09:22 PM
Glad to see my pics are of some good use :)

senna
23-12-2011, 07:30 AM
Generally the nut will undo anti-clockwise or towards the front of the car on the drivers side and to the rear on the passenger side.

If the nut still won't budge you can try heating it a little too, but make sure you soak the crap out of it for a good hour or so.

Edit - maybe look at getting a new pair of tie rod ends and nuts to suit - sounds like these ones are going to be stuffed by the time you are finished...

charliebrown
23-12-2011, 07:51 PM
Ok i got the nut loose. But can't get the ball joint out. Went at it with a rubber mallet for damn near an hour. Is there any other way to get this out?! driving me insane

Also what is this black shit? Looks like the ball joint is leaking or something?

http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/7955/20111223191906.jpg

senna
23-12-2011, 09:57 PM
Don't use a rubber mallet, wasting your time, a good solid mallet us what you need.

That looks like excess grease. Just buy new tie rod ends so you have no doubts