f7 lca inner bolts too short

[rubixcube]

hey all,
noob question here I guess - installing my f7 lcas on my EK and the inner bolts that go from LCA to subframe don't want to tighten anywhere near the recommended torque. It's like this on both sides. When I look at the nut on the back of the subframe only a tiny part of the bolt is showing through. Does this mean the bolts are simply too short and I've run out of thread to tighten with? Anyone else had this problem? The RTA->LCA and shock->LCA bolts bolted in completely fine.

[trism]

Did you buy them new or 2nd hand.

If new, talk to the company you bought it from.

[kcokla]

I had a similar problem -

have you played with the sub frame area before?

check the bolts for the lca and maybe switch them - perhaps in the past someone has taken them out and put them back in in the incorrect place.

check the subframe / lower control arm bolts.
the lower control arm ones that connect to suspension should be longer than the subframe one.

[stndrd]

When fitting my F7 lca's, I just used the OE bolts that were fitted to the car instead of using the supplied bolts

[rubixcube]

Did you buy them new or 2nd hand.

If new, talk to the company you bought it from.

Yes they're new, was I supposed to get some bolts?


I had a similar problem -

have you played with the sub frame area before?

check the bolts for the lca and maybe switch them - perhaps in the past someone has taken them out and put them back in in the incorrect place.

check the subframe / lower control arm bolts.
the lower control arm ones that connect to suspension should be longer than the subframe one.

Yes I have changed things in the past. But all 6 bolts I removed from the car, and also 4 bolts that I bought from a member here, are all exactly the same length.


When fitting my F7 lca's, I just used the OE bolts that were fitted to the car instead of using the supplied bolts

I didn't get any supplied bolts... should I have?

[stndrd]

Actually, forget I said that, as I fitted my lca's with my ASR brace and that's where the bolts were supplied. My apologies for wrong info

[rubixcube]

Actually, forget I said that, as I fitted my lca's with my ASR brace and that's where the bolts were supplied. My apologies for wrong info

Ahh yes I remember reading the ASR brace comes with longer bolts. I went and checked the laser etching on the LCAs to be 100% sure - they definitely say "EK" so they are the correct part.

[egb16b]

did you guys run the F7 endlinks with the LCA or using stock endlinks??? I'm told you have to run spherical F7 endlink when you use F7 LCA.

[rubixcube]

did you guys run the F7 endlinks with the LCA or using stock endlinks??? I'm told you have to run spherical F7 endlink when you use F7 LCA.

I don't have a subframe brace or swaybar, just LCAs at the moment

[stndrd]

I'm using Whiteline endlinks at the moment, tho currently waiting on some F7 spherical endlinks to land

[aaronng]

Bring the bolt to a bolt supplier or bolt & fastener shop and ask for slightly longer versions in high tensile stainless steel.

[rubixcube]

Bring the bolt to a bolt supplier or bolt & fastener shop and ask for slightly longer versions in high tensile stainless steel.

Went down to one of the local bolt shops this morning, he only had m10x1.5x100 in grade 10.9 bolts, the highest tensile 10x1.25x100 bolt he had was grade 8.8...there is another shop that reopens tomorrow morning so I'll check there...but is grade 8.8 ok to use for a little while if I can't find grade 10 right now?

[rubixcube]

So I went and got some bolts..they are threaded all the way down the bolt so I can't run out of thread..still can't tighten them all the way up they just spin, even after I have retapped the subframe nuts with an m10x1.25 hand tap. Wtf? For the moment I have secured the bolt with a second nut on the back of the subframe nut - its tight and definitely not going to come off. Still got nfi why the bolts won't tighten from the front though, both left and right side are the same. Could the subframe nuts just be totally ruined, even though I retapped them?

[dorikin]

Only way to be certain is to take out the bolt, inspect the nut and see if the threads have been stripped.

[rubixcube]

Well I had a look in there after retapping it and it didn't look too bad... :/

[aaronng]

Went down to one of the local bolt shops this morning, he only had m10x1.5x100 in grade 10.9 bolts, the highest tensile 10x1.25x100 bolt he had was grade 8.8...there is another shop that reopens tomorrow morning so I'll check there...but is grade 8.8 ok to use for a little while if I can't find grade 10 right now?
I'd prefer 10.9 of course. No point risking a snapped bolt using the 8.8.


So I went and got some bolts..they are threaded all the way down the bolt so I can't run out of thread..still can't tighten them all the way up they just spin, even after I have retapped the subframe nuts with an m10x1.25 hand tap. Wtf? For the moment I have secured the bolt with a second nut on the back of the subframe nut - its tight and definitely not going to come off. Still got nfi why the bolts won't tighten from the front though, both left and right side are the same. Could the subframe nuts just be totally ruined, even though I retapped them?
If the bolt was just spinning before and not tightening, that means that the thread could be stripped. Once stripped, retapping using the same M10x1.25 as original may give insufficient groove depth to allow the bolt to tighten against. Either re-tap to the next size up or knock out that nut and weld a new one in (you can use JB weld adhesive if you don't want to pay a mech to weld the nut in).

[Lukey]

could he helicoil the nut?

[rubixcube]

I'd prefer 10.9 of course. No point risking a snapped bolt using the 8.8.


If the bolt was just spinning before and not tightening, that means that the thread could be stripped. Once stripped, retapping using the same M10x1.25 as original may give insufficient groove depth to allow the bolt to tighten against. Either re-tap to the next size up or knock out that nut and weld a new one in (you can use JB weld adhesive if you don't want to pay a mech to weld the nut in).

Is welding the nut even necessary? There's plenty of room on the back to use a ring spanner for access to hold the nut for tightening/loosening? If I use two nuts - nylock on top of a normal nut - should be OK? And last question..how do I knock it out lol. Cheers!