Rebuilding a Power Steering Pump. (With Pics)

[JPR28610]

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!


Aim:
My power steering pump on my B18c was leaking so I thought it would be a good opportunity to show others out there how to rebuild their leaking P/S pumps. Im sure this can be used on most P/S pumps.

Required:
P/S Rebuild Kit
12mm Spanner
10mm Socket
Rachet with 6inch Extension
Long Nose Pliers/ Multi Grips
Honda P/S Fluid

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Steps:

1- With the 12mm Spanner, crack open the two 12 bolts on the bracket (Blue). Don't undo it the whole way, just undo it a few rotations.
2- Then undo the the tensioner the whole way (Green). If its too hard to undo, use an adjustable wrench or multi grips.
3- Now use your set of long nose pliers or multigrips to undo the clamp on the hose (Purple). Remove the hose from the pump and drain all the fluid out.
4- Use your 10mm rachet with your extension to take off the two 10mm bolts holding your high pressure hose to the pump and remove from pump (Red).

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5- Now use your 12mm Spanner and crack open the 4 12mm bolts on the back cover of the P/S pump (Black). It's easier to crack open now than when the pumps out. Don't undo it all the way, just 'crack' it.
6- Now remove the P/S belt.
7- Remove the 2 12mm bolts on the bracket (Black) while holding the pump from falling. Remove Pump

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8- Remove the 4 12mm bolts from the back cover.

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9- Remove cover. Now remove all the inner pieces, remembering how they were placed.

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10- Place your spring and long dowel back in.

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11- Lubricate and put the 2 o-rings on the bottom plate.

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12- Now install the bottom plate. The side with the 2 dowel holes facing up (White).

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13- Install the top plate. Make sure the make on the pump is in between the 2 dots on the top plate. (Yellow)
14- Put the shorter dowel in the other hole.

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15- Install the rotor. The Rotor has two marks. Each mark should be facing a dowel.
16- Put the slines in. Make sure the rounded edges are facing out.

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17- Now install the large o-ring to the cover, place it back on and tighten the 4 12mm bolts. If everything is lined up properly inside, the cover should slip straight onto the gear on the shaft.

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18- Place the pump back on the bracket, do the 12mm bracket bolts by hand and put the belt back on. Now put the tensioner back in and tighten untill the belt is tight. When the belt is tensioned right, tighten the 2 12mm bracket bolts. Make sure the belt is placed right on the harmonica balancer aswell.

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19 - Now replace the o-ring on the high pressure hose. Connect it back to the pump and tighten the 2 10mm bolts. Also connect the other hose up and place the clamp into place.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7027/6658464811_dfb2670aea.jpg

20- Make sure everything is back into place. Top your P/S resevoir with Honda P/S fluid. Replace your resevoir cap and clean.
21- After everything is clean, lock the steering wheel from right to left several times. This will bleed the P/S. Top up P/S fluid if needed.
22- Get a mate to hold the steering wheel in a full lock position and go inspect if there is still leaks on the P/S pump.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7150/6658464947_afb2475806.jpg

easy as that !!!

Other comments
If you want to change the bearing aswell, you need a 14mm inpact gun to remove the pulley. Then get curclip pliers to remove the clip, remove bearing and washer. Replace with new washer and bearing and put back together.
If I done anything wrong, let me know so I can fix it up. Enjoy.

[dc2r-0636]

Well done, how much did u pay for the rebuild kit ? $30ish ?

[JPR28610]

just under 50 bucks. abit of rort, after all its a few rubber o-rings. my mate used those universal orings for a buck each and hasnt stopped since.

[dorikin]

Nice work, just what I was planning to do soon too.

Is that a B18C7 motor and P/S pump? Just curious because mine also says P72 on the sticker and I always associated P72 parts with VTi-R's but I'm probably just over thinking it.



just under 50 bucks. abit of rort, after all its a few rubber o-rings. my mate used those universal orings for a buck each and hasnt stopped since.

Do you mean it hasn't stopped running well since or it hasn't stopped leaking? I might just go and match up the O-rings with universal ones if it isn't going to be a problem!

[dorikin]

Sorry one more question, did you buy an OEM kit? If so could you list the part no. and does it come with an O-ring for the inlet port because I think mine is leaking from there.

[JPR28610]

oh i meant its going strong lol. hasnt leaked since.

its a 98 jdm b18c. mine says p72 aswell so should be the same.

[JPR28610]

yeah i did get oem, but i threw everything away already. ill try find out for you and let you know

[hondapop]

Honda has used quite a variety of pumps over the years. This pump is of the sliding vane type so may not apply to others. I replaced the end seals on a CB Accord that was leaking from the shaft and it had a double tubular sleeve internal system, wasn't necessary to dismantle it so I left well alone. Good tip on loosening the cover bolts before removing the pump from it's bracket.

The advise I have had on bleeding the system is to wind the steering from lock to lock while running the engine and topping up. The other important info you gave is to ONLY use genuine Honda fluid. The colour of your fluid is a bit brown (Honda fluid is clear when new). This could indicate old fluid or worse that someone has topped up with ATF or some other pink fluid. Would pay you to drain and flush with all new fluid. The seals will thank you for it.

[JPR28610]

thanks mate. yeah i had to reuse the fluid i had because it was sunday and everything was pretty much closed.