Wheels are negative cambered? :/

[Evok]

Hey guys, i have a question as i'm not sure what or how my wheels resulted in negative camber.

I got new suspension installed, DIY done and double checked. Rear and front.
I swapped from stock suspension 1.5inch drop to coilovers, 2.5 inch-3inch drop.

I went to get a wheel alignment and it shows that my wheel has -3.2 camber?
I don't have a camber kit and my wheels spec are
15x7 38 offset with tires 195/50/15 on honda integra DC2

How can i fix this to being the right camber ? Requires camber kit or did i install it wrong.
And also, is it dangerous in handling wise?


More info
- Yellow racing suspension
- Rear camber is fine , only the front has a massive camber change :/?

Thanks

[anzai]

drop car heaps = natural camber

its normal

fix? get a camber kit

[Evok]

Hm ok, thought so. Wanted to double check though cause was told my car should be -1.2 Camber max. :/

[charliebrown]

Looool keep it -3.2, looks mad. Seems like you don't really care about performance if you dropped your car 3 inches. I wouldn't fork out for camber kits and waste my time adjusting over and over just to reduce the camber a tiny bit.

And yeah front will naturally have more camber than the rear

In terms of handling, you'd want a little bit of camber which is why lot of people recommend 1-2" drops. Too much camber and you have not enough tread contacting the ground. It can affect traction and also braking distance. I wouldn't say dangerous though...

[Evok]

Ahhh haha. Yeah the 15's on a dc2 requires like 2.5 inch drop to look decent, 1.5 had 2 finger gap at front and rear.
Wouldnt say i don't care about performance. Love it but having coils, it was a must.

Thanks for info though. Please Keep posting if theres more info i need to know!

[vtecing]

It's easy to fix the rear camber. Frind the two bolts that connect your rear upper control arm to the chassis and put some shims in between the control arm and the chassis, you may need slightly longer bolts

[charliebrown]

You have a huge fender gap cos your tyres are too small... 205/50/15 is the right rolling diameter

[mugen_ctr]

Only get camber kit if u intend on tracking it and making the most of a full adjustable suspension...

Unless u want corrective camber, and even tire wear, than dont bother to much about it...

Camber plays a vital role in vehicle handling, so unless u plan on making a stance vehicle, than id suggest getting a camber kit to correct ur camber, as pointed out, the more camber, the less tire contact and thus reducing ur braking and grip.... I know because ive played around with camber settings. Optimum camber in most cases is around -0.5 to -1.0 from what ive been told, any more its useless on dd..

Never try to adjust camber by eye, always get a shop to set it up, because they have the correct laser tech to get accurate reading and correct settings....

[mugen_ctr]

It's easy to fix the rear camber. Frind the two bolts that connect your rear upper control arm to the chassis and put some shims in between the control arm and the chassis, you may need slightly longer bolts

ive always wonder, How do u know what shim thickness to equate to the correct camber ur after?

[charliebrown]

Only get camber kit if u intend on tracking it and making the most of a full adjustable suspension...

Unless u want corrective camber, and even tire wear, than dont bother to much about it...




Camber plays a vital role in vehicle handling, so unless u plan on making a stance vehicle, than id suggest getting a camber kit to correct ur camber, as pointed out, the more camber, the less tire contact and thus reducing ur braking and grip.... I know because ive played around with camber settings. Optimum camber in most cases is around -0.5 to -1.0 from what ive been told, any more its useless on dd..


lolwut?

[mugen_ctr]

lolwut?

lol, jus noticed it than....

Ok let me rephrase, IMO Jus get the camber kit, u pay what, 1 - 1.5k for coilovers, u mite as well go the extra length an get camber kit to correct the camber for even tire wear since its a dd, imma assume....

ppl who think camber kits is useless, it aint... unless u like having uneven tire wear, id strongly suggest getting camber kit, its not that much, and u can always adjust the camber if u decide to track it later on... correct camber setting for the track is vital to get the best times and handling..... as well as for a dd....

Before u say its toe that kills tires on a honda, its not, its a combination of both! i know because ive had my toe corrected twice! and not touch the camber, till i got the camber kit, an thus allowing me for better tire wear...

But thats just from what ive experience, others may differ......

[Evok]

Thanks for info guys. The shop showed me details and they said rear camber is fine ( i have sheet lying around with data somewhere ).

I'm think of considering getting front camber kit later on in the future just to increase handling ( safety ).
My toe was adjusted to 0.4 and caster was fine as well. Only the camber was off

[charliebrown]

Either get a quality camber kit or stay with your stock arms. Cheap camber kits break and shit... so much for safety. A hardrace front camber kit is something like $200 and rear is $150ish. Assuming you can DIY, that's still not cheap. Bloody expensive if you pay a shop to install.

'Excessive' uneven tyre wear, indeed subjective, isn't a big deal unless you're running over 4 degrees of neg camber. In that case it's probably cheaper just to flip your tyres to get more life out of them

[mugen_ctr]

Either get a quality camber kit or stay with your stock arms. Cheap camber kits break and shit... so much for safety. A hardrace front camber kit is something like $200 and rear is $150ish. Assuming you can DIY, that's still not cheap. Bloody expensive if you pay a shop to install.

'Excessive' uneven tyre wear, indeed subjective, isn't a big deal unless you're running over 4 degrees of neg camber. In that case it's probably cheaper just to flip your tyres to get more life out of them

camber kits are pretty easy to install, jus simple 2 bolts an there out really.... :D

But when it comes to aligning them, it can b tricky if ur cars pretty lowered... as access to them under the guard is the trick part

[charliebrown]

So.. .$350 for kits, $100+ to get your car's alignment settings done. That's the price of a new set of average tyres... which for me would be about 5 years worth of rubber.

[mugen_ctr]

So.. .$350 for kits, $100+ to get your car's alignment settings done. That's the price of a new set of average tyres... which for me would be about 5 years worth of rubber.

What kinda rubber are u using LOL, my rubber only lasted me 2 yrs max.... i wished i had tires that lasted that long...

At the end of the day, u jus gotta weigh up if its worth it or not, though not every says its crucial to have camber kits, i for one think its valuable if u want the most out of ur vehicle and rubber

[GSi_PSi]

lol wtf 5 years worth of rubber, weekend car ?

heres my dealings with camber,
dc2 dropped heaps low, did wheel alignment, natural camber wear was eating my tyres would last max 8 months daily driving

installed camber kit with a bit of neg camber, tyres have lasted me 12 months now since and they look evenly worn lol ?

[charliebrown]

You guys all drive like wankers?

[charliebrown]

The tyres i'm using atm, about to take them off but they are almost at full tread after 6 months of use. 9mm left

[GSi_PSi]

You drive on air ?

[anzai]

lol

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[trism]

y'alls toe settings are farked, thats what it is.

shouldnt kill a set of tyres in 8 months even with -5 camber. mine lasted aaaaaaaaaaaaages

just get toe set to 0 all round. toe is what scrubs rubber off the tyre. think about it, the tyre is pointing slightly sideways, and youre moving forwards. Wears faster.

So go to the tyre shop, and say dont worry about camber and caster, just make sure my toe settings are 0 all round. Should cost like 50 or 60 bucks.

then just before the inside of the tyre hits the wear marker, youll notice the outside still has heaps to go.

So take them down to the tyre shop, and get them swapped left to right. Should only cost about 80 bucks tops.

Youll get 12 months on one side, 12 months on the other, and if youre running that much camber you obviously dont give a shit about handling, so theres no point running $250 tyres, just run $130 ones and youll be sweet.

[charliebrown]

^he knows whats up

[dougie_504]

y'alls toe settings are farked, thats what it is.

shouldnt kill a set of tyres in 8 months even with -5 camber. mine lasted aaaaaaaaaaaaages

just get toe set to 0 all round. toe is what scrubs rubber off the tyre. think about it, the tyre is pointing slightly sideways, and youre moving forwards. Wears faster.

So go to the tyre shop, and say dont worry about camber and caster, just make sure my toe settings are 0 all round. Should cost like 50 or 60 bucks.

then just before the inside of the tyre hits the wear marker, youll notice the outside still has heaps to go.

So take them down to the tyre shop, and get them swapped left to right. Should only cost about 80 bucks tops.

Youll get 12 months on one side, 12 months on the other, and if youre running that much camber you obviously dont give a shit about handling, so theres no point running $250 tyres, just run $130 ones and youll be sweet.


Agreed. I'm running quite a bit of camber with a 1/2 finger gap at the front. 195/50/15 on EM1 rims. Have been doing it for ages, tread is fine. All in the toe!

[Evok]

Hmm so i should just leave my camber how it is? Atm its -3.2 camber and toe has been setted to 0.2 as i said before . Tires are still fairly new .but I love both form and function ;) ... Only front is cambered btw, so i only require front camber kit, anyone know prices?

cheers guys

[charliebrown]

Did you not read the previous 2 pages?

Hmm so i should just leave my camber how it is?
Yes

Only front is cambered btw, so i only require front camber kit, anyone know prices?
$200 for hardrace front camber kit

Furthermore, if you just got a brand new alignment, why would you go changing shit again?

[Evok]

Apologize, its a habit to skim through things.
I know i just got a wheel alignment and i wouldn't have if i "was" going to change shit again.

I was only interested in prices because it could be a late future upgrade.

[dougie_504]

0.2 toe is enough, no more IMO. -3.2 camber should be fine.

Always ask for a printed record of your alignments specs before/after and if you have any questions feel free to ask here.

I understand you wanna get it right. It's ya pride and joy and tyres just keep getting more expensive :)

[Evok]

Cheers dougie :)

[stndrd]

I paid $300 for my Hardrace front camber kit & $150ish for the rear.

Personally, -3.2 is overkill for daily driving as you are not going to optimise tyre contact with the road, as you are not doing 140km/h+ around a corner and could have the inner edge wear away quite quickly (depending on tyre choice & compound), even with near neutral toe settings.

I would get a front & rear camber kit, get it set up at around -2/-2.5 front & -2 rear with slight toe out front & equal amount of toe in on the rear and you will find that the car handles really well for dd (and has enough camber in it to get maximum grip for when you go to do mountain runs)

[rhys.l]

I think the above is good advice. I am getting between -2 and -2.5 camber on my dc2r naturally with spoon progressive springs. This setup feels great on the mountain runs and with close to zero toe all round I look to be well on the way to pretty good tyre life too.