[CL9] Accord Euro Ozhonda Noob Intro + Qs

[MR2QIK]

Hey everyone,

My Euro's been in my family since 04 (bought it new). Thought I'd finally introduce myself. Here's my faithful daily CL9 Luxury.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e395/fudgieness/Accord%20Euro%20CL9/DSC_0207.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e395/fudgieness/Accord%20Euro%20CL9/DSC_0210.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e395/fudgieness/Accord%20Euro%20CL9/DSC_0241.jpg

Mods:

Eibach springs (stock shocks)
19x8.5 Starcorp rims (225/35/19 runflats)
Xcarlink Interface
PS2 + 3 screen (headrests, front lower console)

Have a few questions...

I have a slight front camber issue (slightly positive on one side), so am planning to get camber adjustable front ball-joints to even them out (also changing/swapping wheels). Anyone had experience with the ebay units? Looks good value.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-07-Honda-Accord-FRONT-REAR-Camber-Kit-Set-04-05-06-/310352489538?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ATSX&vxp=mtr&hash=item4842732c42

Understand most get SPC, Ingalls or Wicked, but unsure of where they get them from & for how much.

Secondly, being an auto & 5speed, I find the car to be quite gutless (factory exhaust). Are there any common choke points like the factory cat?

The reason I ask, is the low end torque is quite poor (to the point using AC is annoyingly slower). Yes, I know it's a Honda motor (not exactly a torque boat), but I'm sure it's capable of more & I get the impression it's restricted @ the moment. Just after a more pleasurable Mon-Fri commute (my weekender is a 330rwkw MR2 turbo). Currently has 155k km & otherwise running like new.

Cheers,
Jay

[marquee]

Have you had a wheel alignment because i could get my alignment within manufacture specs and mine was real low shouldnt need a front camber kit

[d_evilz]

agree with above post, unless you have hit the kerb going sideways whilst turning with no traction :D

[Fredoops]

Secondly, being an auto & 5speed, I find the car to be quite gutless (factory exhaust). Are there any common choke points like the factory cat?

The reason I ask, is the low end torque is quite poor (to the point using AC is annoyingly slower). Yes, I know it's a Honda motor (not exactly a torque boat), but I'm sure it's capable of more & I get the impression it's restricted @ the moment. Just after a more pleasurable Mon-Fri commute (my weekender is a 330rwkw MR2 turbo). Currently has 155k km & otherwise running like new.

Cheers,
Jay

1st thing to start is engine oil lol....
the factory catback is actually very free flowing, the choke points are intake/header/cat.

Your heavy 19inch wheel probably don't help either, since 1kg of rotating mass = 6-10kg static mass... 19 inch wheels are usually 10kg each or more, thats 2kg per wheel more than the stock 16x6 rims x 6-10kg rotating to static mass conversion....
it's like an extra 70-100 odd kgs the car has to pull...

OEM cat pre facelift has 900 cells... go figure

[antony]

Nice looking older Euro,how much mileage has it done ???

[MR2QIK]

marquee, yes I've had many alignments over the years by Road & Race in Rydalmere (does my MR2 & previous track cars). I'm very fussy with my alignments, but as d_evilz suspected, it had a brush with a gutter @ one point (my Dad parking carelessly). Replaced the control arm etc, but it's still got very slight positive camber (FR) which I'd like to address with adjustable front ball joints. Castor etc is all perfect though. My research on the TSX forum & google shows the ebay units (Jpower) are the same as SPC, so will probably be good enough for me. Skunk2 units also seem well priced at the moment.

Fredoops, thanks a lot for that! I had suspected a restriction with the cat/intake. Didn't really want to change exhaust given it's an auto. Are there any common cat upgrades? Or is it more a case of simply going to an Exhaust centre & swapping with another unit? Sounds like helping the car breathe & fart better is the way to go :)

Correct about the rims, but given it's my family car (Wife drives it too) I prefer how it looks with them. I'm actually replacing them with the below (but in black) shortly along with fixing the front camber (buying off a friend @ a bargain price).

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e395/fudgieness/Accord%20Euro%20CL9/TSXAxisMilano3.jpg

antony, 155k km (complete Honda service history). Been a very reliable car (still drives like when it were new), so good I can't bare to get rid of it. Besides, I'm sure these cars have done a lot more mileage than that (esp in the States) reliably. Truth is, the lack in low-rpm torque is the only reason I ever really thought to replace this car, but I think I'll stick with it.

[Fredoops]

I got random tech (r/t) 250 cel cat.

But any exhaust shop can probably do one for you.

[MR2QIK]

In relation to the intake, do the drop in K&N units increase flow well enough? Trying to keep it compliant. Or do the complete intake setups give significantly better results?

[Fredoops]

In relation to the intake, do the drop in K&N units increase flow well enough? Trying to keep it compliant. Or do the complete intake setups give significantly better results?

Yeah a K&N filter will help. Slightly.

[marquee]

Its all a matter of what you want really. You want better daily driving so technically better acceleration with a better torque curve down low.

Being an auto i have never driven one so not sure about the take off but not to much of a difference.

I would say get a ct icebox as this doesn't loose as much of the down low. Headers will move the curve up higher but then you could get a tune to fix that. But as you want a daily just get a haltech or wait for flashpro up to you so you can tune it a bit better

[Fredoops]

Its all a matter of what you want really. You want better daily driving so technically better acceleration with a better torque curve down low.

Being an auto i have never driven one so not sure about the take off but not to much of a difference.

I would say get a ct icebox as this doesn't loose as much of the down low. Headers will move the curve up higher but then you could get a tune to fix that. But as you want a daily just get a haltech or wait for flashpro up to you so you can tune it a bit better
or get some light weight rims lol!

As header goes 4-1 design is more up top, 4-2-1 should be good for lower and mid range.

[MR2QIK]

marquee, I only really care for slightly better down low acceleration/response. Appears a cat change & intake should give that little bit extra I'm looking for. Not tight with this car (esp with maintenance), but honestly not looking to spend significant amounts on upgrades. I prefer to direct those funds to my MR2.

Drove my friends Euro (05 M/T) & it drives a LOT better than mine. I put it down to 6speed.

As nice as JDM rims headers/ecu etc would be, it's still an auto & no lightweight. Would almost half the market value of the car too....lol

I do have Meisters (S13P) on my SW20, so can always do a temporary swap :)

[Fredoops]

Just take it off hen you wanna sell the car.

I gonna throw this out there....
Lightened pulleys.... Since the k-series are internally balanced. Lightened pulleys will make a massive difference.

So does a good full synthetic oil change to free up the engine.

[MR2QIK]

Pardon my ignorence, but what engine oil would Honda typically be using during their scheduled servicing? Complete Honda service history with this car & I've had some pretty darn long lasting Hondas serviced via them. My preference for oils is what protects the motor best, over what frees it up most.

I lack the motivation to change the pulleys to be honest....lol

[tony1234]

marquee, I only really care for slightly better down low acceleration/response. Appears a cat change & intake should give that little bit extra I'm looking for. Not tight with this car (esp with maintenance), but honestly not looking to spend significant amounts on upgrades. I prefer to direct those funds to my MR2.

Drove my friends Euro (05 M/T) & it drives a LOT better than mine. I put it down to 6speed.

As nice as JDM rims headers/ecu etc would be, it's still an auto & no lightweight. Would almost half the market value of the car too....lol

I do have Meisters (S13P) on my SW20, so can always do a temporary swap :)
Get a set of headers.

[Fredoops]

Pardon my ignorence, but what engine oil would Honda typically be using during their scheduled servicing? Complete Honda service history with this car & I've had some pretty darn long lasting Hondas serviced via them. My preference for oils is what protects the motor best, over what frees it up most.

I lack the motivation to change the pulleys to be honest....lol
Whatever shit the dealer can get in a barrel for cheap.

It ranges fr Honda FEO dino, to castrol GTX to castrol magnetec to Mobil 3000 semi syn.

Get some decent full synthetic and notice the difference in both performance and protection.

[antony]

At 155 000 kilometers,its just run in...

[marquee]

Ok so i kind of understand what you want.

Get some fully synth oil. change your gearbox fluid.

The reason it feels sluggish is the drive by wire cable throttle is better for performance

[MR2QIK]

I like that part about the "just run in". Good ol Hondas :)

Transmission oil has been changed too (no issues there). Maintenance wise, the car is faultless.

Changed rims on the weekend. Quick phone pics:

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e395/fudgieness/Accord%20Euro%20CL9/2012-02-04123251.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e395/fudgieness/Accord%20Euro%20CL9/2012-02-04195212.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e395/fudgieness/Accord%20Euro%20CL9/2012-02-04195140.jpg

Additionally, slapped on a spare K&N filter I had (cleaned it up etc). The difference is actually quite nice. The panel I removed wasn't old (replaced about 20k ago), but the motor's clearly breathing better. About 50% to my goal, I'm pretty certain a cat change will get me where I want it to be. Will look @ extractors etc otherwise.

Is the OEM exhaust 2inch or 2.25?