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View Full Version : Way to increase bass in eg hatch stock rear speaker location



crobaa
04-03-2012, 08:15 AM
Hi guys, looking for a way to increase the bass from my 6.5" speakers in the rear side panels of my eg hatch. I have recently been made aware of crx bass tubes. Is there a similar oem item to suit eg? Or any aftermarket products that can improve it? The crx ones look like they fit so I may just try those if there's no better options. Anybody have any feedback if they work well?

trism
04-03-2012, 08:45 AM
There's literally nothing you can do. The position they are mounted in, all the pressure behind the speakers gets vented into the entire space from the doors to the boot.

Plus, 6.5s don't produce much bass anyway.

If you want a bit of punch without going overboard, find yourself a decent quality 8" sub and run it off a dedicated amp.

It'll give you that bottom end you're looking for, without taking up so much space

crobaa
04-03-2012, 09:14 AM
Any idea about the bass tubes? I know enclosing speakers properly makes a huge difference. But yeah rear eg speakers just have a huge hollow void behind

charliebrown
04-03-2012, 09:19 AM
Dunno if true, never tested this myself but change rears to 6x9? Bass in exchange for sound quality.

IMO just chuck in a 12" sub with built in amp in the boot.

http://www.baysideautostyling.com.au/images/Products/Subs/99PACK.png

Atm i'm running 4x 6.5"s off HU and am getting plenty bass. Once i wire up my sub should be off its ti.ts

trism
04-03-2012, 09:19 AM
A bass tube is just a round enclosure. Its no different to a normal sub box except for its a cylinder lol. The ones that come with inbuilt amps can be handy.

CRXDEL501
04-03-2012, 10:28 AM
I think it's fusion that makes sub and amp combine into a small box that will fit under a seat....
Could be an idea if you want bass

crobaa
04-03-2012, 10:37 AM
I'm talking about bass tube that suits normal size speakers. A great amount of bass can be produced from small speakers with the right enclosure. You can make $10 speakers sound like $200 dollar speakers and vice versa. I drive a stock 2004 hi ace van with stock speakers and the bass it has is awesome. I don't want an amp or a sub. Sealed enclosure makes a world of difference. Just need the right size enclosure to suit a speaker. Doesn't matter so much in doors as they are a lot more sealed and a smaller area than the rear speaker area. Anyway back to my original question. People who have used crx tubes, are they good?

Drifter995
04-03-2012, 02:06 PM
From what i've heard and seen, a bass tube will never sound as good as a proper sub and box.. If you're desperatly after a decent doof to go under your seat, get something like the focal bus20 or bus25... either or those will do the job much better. much better drivers than the fusion ones, will most likely get lower, and sound nicer.

or the alternative is just buy a sub, an amp, and build a box for your boot. you've got the room. would sound much better.

crobaa
04-03-2012, 03:03 PM
Read my last post! Don't want a sub. Don't want crazy bass. Just an improvement over standard bass

Drifter995
04-03-2012, 03:13 PM
oop, sorry.
Just getting some better speakers will do the job then.. they won't get as low as a sub, but they'll give that extra punch you're after... either that, or replace the rears with 6 inch subs.. then you can have the lower speakers in the back.

But, upgrade your fronts if you haven't already, get some splits, a decent pair, with a good mount and dynamat will sound very good :D and adding an amp to that'll make it even better. then a sub and such..

crobaa
04-03-2012, 03:28 PM
I already got pretty pimp jl audio 6.5 rears. Dynamat makes a world of differnce but I'm trying to keep the cars weight down which is why I like the idea of these fibreglass/plastic tubes

trism
04-03-2012, 03:41 PM
Here's something to try if you like doing a bit of DIY. Go to a plumbing store and get say 2m of 8" PVC tube and 4 end caps. Figure out how much space you've got and cut the pipe to length accordingly.

Put the end caps on, with some sikaflex around the inside to stick and seal. Then if you want, wrap some dynamat around the outside the deaden it a little, then trim in carpet. In one end cap, cut out a hole big enough to mount your speaker, and drill a hole in the side for speaker wire.

crobaa
04-03-2012, 04:00 PM
I don't think there would be enough room to mount one of those in the factory location. Unless I made an L shape one which is actually not a bad idea. What's PVC worth these days? Considering I'd need an elbow too it might be pricey

trism
04-03-2012, 04:18 PM
have you got speakers in the front doors?

if so, you dont really need the rears.

think about when you go see live music. the speakers are either side of the stage, and you face the band playing, you dont look backwards, and there is no speakers behind you, it all comes from infront of you.

So get the good speakers up front, and concentrate on deadening and sealing the doors, and even get an amp onto them.

Back a few years ago i was only running fronts, and had that much bass people thought i had a sub in the back.

crobaa
04-03-2012, 04:27 PM
Thanks for that trism but really trying to keep the weight down. I spent all last week removing the factory sound deadening from the car so won't be adding any now lol.

I agree fronts are the main ones but they sound crap without a lot of deadening in the doors on civics. These pods seem to be a good way of getting some good sound without adding a lot of weight/cost

trism
04-03-2012, 05:02 PM
lol fair call.

Drifter995
04-03-2012, 10:04 PM
incorrect. they don't sound like arse in front doors without sound deadening... i had/ have an eg9 sedan (probably changed stuff since then, but point still stands) ran eclipse sc6500's, diy'd, and they sounded great.. went to a car audio shop, and asked them to fix a few things, and make the mount a bit more solid, and then it sounded really great (the few things were move crossover to a better spot, give the woofer a weather shield thing in the door cavity)
Morel of the story, get some decent splits, mount them well, and you'll have some decent bass. Get some dynamat and an amp, and they'll be great.
You really don't need rears.. I was all about having full surround, but after my rear left died, I went full forwards, and it sounds much better. Kinda sad I had to go back to my first gen with only rear speakers :(

Hit up a car audio place, check out some splits, get some you like the sound of, and install them in the door with a solid mount, and voilla, more bass

crobaa
04-03-2012, 11:34 PM
I had good splits in the doors and they had good bass but whole door rattled. All the locking rods were going crazy in there without deadener. Only entry level splits run without an amp and don't sound that great. Doors by nature are not a good spot for large bass. Maybe sedan doors are different? Mine is a breeze too which may differ again as it has less factory deadener than any model.

Drifter995
04-03-2012, 11:52 PM
I had good splits in the doors and they had good bass but whole door rattled. All the locking rods were going crazy in there without deadener. Only entry level splits run without an amp and don't sound that great. Doors by nature are not a good spot for large bass. Maybe sedan doors are different? Mine is a breeze too which may differ again as it has less factory deadener than any model.

that may explain a lot.. guess maybe look for some good 6 inch subs? they're a little hard to come by, but it'd do alright I fink :D
Could get some home audio ones if you wanted, they'd be a lower independance, but made to run off less power, so they'd probably work well

IV73CI
05-03-2012, 12:12 AM
IMO..

Block off those 6.5inch holes with dynamat and put a pair of 6x9s on the rear parcel shelf..(if u dont have one, make one from an 16mm MDF board frm bunnings)

Def sounds as good as an 8inch sub bass effect.. 80Htz is suffice enuf..

Compared to the 6inchs 120Htz.. Which should be only at the fronts.

My setup..

6.5inch MB Quartz splits front
6x9 Rockford punch 3ways
12inch Fusion Powerplant dvc sub

When pumpin the bass... Def panty droppin!! Lol

Drifter995
05-03-2012, 12:19 AM
if you want to go 6x9's, spare the extra space and get some kenwood 7x10s, a dude from mea has hit a mid 140db running 4 of them. they get down to like 40hz.

EKVTIR-T
05-03-2012, 12:21 AM
IMO..

Block off those 6.5inch holes with dynamat and put a pair of 6x9s on the rear parcel shelf..(if u dont have one, make one from an 16mm MDF board frm bunnings)

Def sounds as good as an 8inch sub bass effect.. 80Htz is suffice enuf..

Compared to the 6inchs 120Htz.. Which should be only at the fronts.

My setup..

6.5inch MB Quartz splits front
6x9 Rockford punch 3ways
12inch Fusion Powerplant dvc sub

When pumpin the bass... Def panty droppin!! Lol

He has stated hes trying to keep weight down so adding a mdf parcel shelf reinforcement and moar speakers is out of the question.

And talking about a sub is pointless in regards to this situation :)

http://i52.tinypic.com/2i11k4o.gif


OP if you can get a decent seal on the rears where they are you should get an increased punch out of them

IV73CI
05-03-2012, 12:26 AM
Fair enuf with weight..

So it just really comes down to...

Keep your 6.5inch in the rears and put 6x9s on the door trims using thin spacers to reduce extra weight..

You will definately get bass as long as your door trims are dynamatted from underneath.. ...

And tune it well on the HU.

TbM
05-03-2012, 01:17 AM
If your trying to keep the weight down but want more bass you should consider what drifter995 has recommended and use a focal bus 20 (http://www.focalaustralia.com.au/pdfs/acc_Bus20%20flier.pdf) or 25 (http://www.focalaustralia.com.au/pdfs/acc_Bus25%20flier.pdf)

They are low powered so not going to give you "crazy bass" and only weight about 5 kg so if you remove the rears speakers(2kg or more for a decent set) and just run front speakers only as trism has mentioned you wont be gaining much weight at all, you can also remove the focal quickly when you want to go for a sprited drive or to the track etc if you anal about keeping your weight right down.

crobaa
05-03-2012, 05:36 AM
This is the extent of my weight reduction http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z233/crobaa/0948e290.jpg

So parcel shelf is out of the question lol.

With regards to head unit tuning. I current have it on either 63 or 80hz. On 50hz bass is perfect but sound quality is poor. I just have the eq on flat, bass booster doesn't do anything. I'm gonna look like a wanker if I have interior like that and run a sub. Even if it is under seat. Also can I point out there is barely any room under eg seats, have you guys checked that focal bus fits under there? In the past I have tried to fit slim subs under and haven't even come close. I had 8" pioneer slim and it wouldn't even fit without the box.

IV73CI
05-03-2012, 05:42 AM
Dude as i said, just put 6x9 at the front or get them custom trimmed on the rear quarter panels.

crobaa
05-03-2012, 06:25 AM
How will 6x9's sound in the rear quarters without deadening? It's such a huge void with holes everywhere

Drifter995
05-03-2012, 09:48 AM
horrible.

the focal bus 20 is 76mm high according to the website.
Measure the height under your seat, if it fits, you have your answer, if not, look into getting some door upgrading shit.. if you say the rear is as bad as that, no point putting anything back there, it'll just sound like arse without a good solid mount and stoof...

Having good car audio in a track car is a trade off really.. you either want it to sound good, or you want it to be light weight.. can't have it both ways.. I don't think dynamat on the doors would be that much of an increase in weight, would it? but either way, underseat sub should work.

crobaa
05-03-2012, 10:52 AM
I'm at work now but pretty sure 76mm is too tall. Because the tubes are fully enclosed and I can solidly mount in theory they will work. They don't look to be heavy either

TbM
05-03-2012, 10:53 AM
Yeh drifter if just the front doors were dynamatted then it wouldnt add much weight, small ammount on the outer skin and cover the service holes with mdf cutouts to make an enclousure. Run front speakers only to offset the increased weight.

Still think a bus 20 or 25 is the better option as its removable for track days etc so he only has added weight when he want to listin to doof doof.

Drifter995
05-03-2012, 01:19 PM
Yeh drifter if just the front doors were dynamatted then it wouldnt add much weight, small ammount on the outer skin and cover the service holes with mdf cutouts to make an enclousure. Run front speakers only to offset the increased weight.

Still think a bus 20 or 25 is the better option as its removable for track days etc so he only has added weight when he want to listin to doof doof.

my thoughts exactly

NightKids
05-03-2012, 07:26 PM
Friggin just put in some 6.5" DD drivers. You have all the bass you need in the world. Bridge a ill 2 channel to drive it, lob it under the seat. Hardly takes up any room and wouldn't weigh that much