Removal of Intake resonator from 5th gen

[viperx]

I finally got around to removing that fat white resonator from underneath the filter box in my F22B1 (vtec) 97 accord to augment my HKS panel filter.

Stupidly though instead of filling up the same petrol to compare the before and after performance, I filled up with vortex and now the car seems a bit less responsive at low revs (below 4000)- did anyone else find this? Or is the car just less surgey and I'm just feeling it to be less responsive?

What does other ppl who've done this before think...

[viperx]

And to add, strangely enough, this loss in response only seems most obvious at full throttle, it actually seems MORE responsive at partial throttle acceleration

[filoaccord]

where is the intake resonator?? and why need to take it off??

[viperx]

its underneath the box where your panel filter sits, inside the bumper. to get to it you need to take off the cover of your right front wheel arch

if you open ur bonnet, you will see that the engine actually draws air in from inside the engine bay, directly against the battery. removing the stock intake resonator would allow it to draw air from inside the bumper, away from engine heat, and also removing the need for air to take a big detour before getting to the air filter.

makes the vtec phase a lot louder, seems to make the top end more responsive (works out in theory at least), but at the moment i think it seems to make the bottom end a bit weaker.

[filoaccord]

i got a cold air intake and filter but not the pipe so is it worth taking the intake resonator out??

[viperx]

where is ur cold air intake feeding from??

usually people take out the white intake resonator and put the new conical filter for the CAI where the resi used to be.

otherwise where is ur filter sitting? if it is still inside the engine compartment, then the air isn't 'cold'

[_JENZA_]

*DUNDAS* i got CAI on my car f22b1 accord cd5. took out my resinoator thingy .. much louder... seems mor repsonsive0--- i also run a cold air feed to it so it has sum airto the pod.. also custom heat shielded it. without intake res out... how is cold air suppose to get to it easy?

[mikes94]

You will find that this modification is for use with stock intake and airbox (albeit with an aftermarket drop in filter).

With the stock system, air is taken from the side of the engine bay, feeds it through a complex series of resonators (ie. big white box) in the fenderwell and back up into the bottom of the airbox (at least this how it was on my DC2).

I believe there are two schools of thought on this one:

1. The resonators serve no other purpose to suppress the glorious Honda intake roar - and make it suitably quiet for a pasenger vehicle. The re-use of 'warm' air from the engine bay I believe has something to do with emissions or perhaps operation on cold days (I am not 100% on this one - perhaps someone can enlighten me).
Thus removing the resonator allows cooler air to be drawn from within the fenderwell and hence generates more power ... along with the added benefit of a raunchier scream coming from under the bonnet.

2. The resonators are a complicated tuned interface designed by Honda engineers that provide an additive intake resonace that aids air/fuel mixing and delivery to the combusition chamber. (I believe this is indicated also by Spoon who only provide a drop in filter for the DC2 rather than a whole intake system or CAI; or Mugen who have invested a lot of R&D into their tuned airbox).
Thus removing the resonator will actually harm the performance of your Honda (and goes for generic CAI and intakes).

Personally I have removed mine and can honestly say I didnt notice a shred of difference - although that doesnt mean that there wasnt any.
I've often thought of putting it back ... but there are some weight savings to be had from removing it :thumbsup:

Perhaps others can share their experiences.

Mike

[incoming]

i did the same mod
mostly for the louder vtec roar (pretty pathetic in the SOHC vtecs) and to save weight

i read somewhere (some US forum) to reset the ECU as well, by discon the power from the battery and reconnecting it again - but now i cant rem why... something to do with air/fuel mixture? - correct me if im wrong though..

this mod was done years ago so i dont rem if there was any difference apart from noise

[dundas]

it roars wickedly in my accord ^_^ i like it and das all dat matters LOL- its like 50% louder than my stock exhaust and 30% louder than my aftermarket exhaust-- ROAR.

[viperx]

ok it seems the obd has compensated... it is better now.

Cheers :D

[NeRV]

Any pictures of how to remove the resonator for the 5th gen Accords? and what do you do after you remove everything? get a K&N Panel Filter? and is it easy to make a custom pipe to lead air into the stock air box??

[viperx]

yeah u can get a panel filter to replace the oem filter. it does make a difference. I dont think there is a point to make a custom pipe, it is already drawing air from the bumper in front of the wheel arch. i was thinking of making a bellmouth for that pipe from the stock airbox though, it may make air flow into the pipe better.

[Apple]

interesting thread, I might do the same thing as you guys, keep the stock intake box but just remove the resonator. So you've got to take of the cover of the right wheel arch to do it? Timewise, how long did it take for you to do this? It might take me twice the time :)
Could it be, that Honda designed the intake of air to come from the engine bay, because it would reduce the chance of rain water getting into the intake? If we take the resonator (or white box) off, is there a risk of the car sucking in water on a wet rainy day? Or is it quite sealed and dry from within the bumper?

thanks for your help guys,
Alan

[viperx]

it would be pretty hard. if you take the resonator off, the opening of the pipe from the intake box is almost at the same height as the stock intake opening. therefore, if you're gonna get dunked in that much water, you're probably gonna be screwed regardless.

probably about 10-20mins depending on what tools you have.

pull the air intake inside the engine compartment directly upwards, then go look at your wheel arch cover, and take off all the trimmings necessary to get that out of the way (on the later model, the front bumper lip and the engine cover gets in the way so you'd want to unscrew those too), two screws mount the white resi to the inside guard wall, i think they are 12s. undo them, the whole thing drops downward, put the covers back on, you're done.

[filoaccord]

post pic?? on how to do it

[joyride]

invest in a haynes car manual for your accord. its only 30(?) odd bucks at repco.

or u could just look around the wheel arches, under the grille and under the front bumper for bolts. unscrew them, take off the bump and you will see the resonator. unscrew all the bolts thats holding the resonator and put the bumper bar back on. its that easy. :thumbup:

[viperx]

filo there's no point. my accord has a different bumper to yours anyway so there's a chance some things are different. i know the bumper lip is different, the engine covers may also be. look and try. if its not the right bolt or screw just screw it back in and you'll be fine.

[narcoleptic]

Stupidly though instead of filling up the same petrol to compare the before and after performance, I filled up with vortex and now the car seems a bit less responsive at low revs (below 4000)- did anyone else find this? Or is the car just less surgey and I'm just feeling it to be less responsive?


What does other ppl who've done this before think...


Just a thought... could it be your clutch wearing out? That happened to me when my clutch was worn out. Crap low-end, power starting to come back after 3k~4k rpm.

[viperx]

nah its not the clutch, thanx neways :)

[Apple]

Viperx and co.
Thanks for the info in this thread, I have now removed the resonator (white box) from my car. It took me ages, cos I didn't have the right tools. I think I will need help if I ever attempt to put the white box back on!
Have reset the ECU, noticed a difference when accalerating. Perhaps I'll notice more when I put in a k&n , how much does it cost, gotta save up! :)

Also, while I was taking the air filter box out of the engine bay to clean, I just thought of an idea, not sure what you guys think about this? What if you were to drill some holes at the bottom of the air filter box, would that help increase air intake, and make a difference?

thanks again,
Alan

[toE]

Won't make a noticeable difference I reckon.

[ZC_CRX]

so in overall oppions it is a good idea to remove your resonator (white box) or not i dnt want "just the load roar power would b nice 2! lol

And is resettin the ECU as simple as disconecting the battery and reconecting it??

cheers:thumbsup:

[viperx]

yeah pretty much ZC. btw all- i just checked my box the other day and I had a hole half burnt thru my HKS filter. I think it might have been a ciggy butt or ash that I drew up into the airbox. Its certainly something i drew up cuz its at the front of the box, on the underside of the filter (where the intake is). you would have thought it would have been safe drawing air from the inner guard. bloody h_ll.

[accordBOI]

i took the resi out and fed through a ribbed CAI pipe which leads form the pod filter to under the bar, feeds cold air to the engine like hell, and is more allertive !!

[Chuckz]

for a stock car to take the resonator out, do i have to add any pipe??

is there any con's in removing the resonator??

[Jase EK]

is there one on the EK civic ?

[viperx]

No

rip out the white box

the con- yes read my last post- i drew up a ciggy butt + it burnt a hole in my filter


for a stock car to take the resonator out, do i have to add any pipe??

is there any con's in removing the resonator??

[milkman]

in regards to resnonator removal ive done it to my car it isn't honda though but i have found that low end is better - i figured it's because air can be sucked instantly instead of goin through a huge series of chambers.. just my 2cents

[milkman]

No

rip out the white box

the con- yes read my last post- i drew up a ciggy butt + it burnt a hole in my filter

also it's there to reduce some noise like a exhaust resonator.. but i foudn it barely noticable

[Feverpitched]

Zoom did a test on intake resonators a few (read: lot of) years back. Their conclusion was that having one DID assist in smoothing out the power curve and giving slightly more power than without. They ran the test with stock res., no res., smaller res., larger res., and an even larger res. Guess which had the best result?

[JohnL]

Viperx and co.
Also, while I was taking the air filter box out of the engine bay to clean, I just thought of an idea, not sure what you guys think about this? What if you were to drill some holes at the bottom of the air filter box, would that help increase air intake, and make a difference?
Alan

Alan,
Are you talking about drilling holes the stock filter box inside the engine bay, and have you fitted a CAI? If yes to both these questions then drilling holes in the filter box will negate some of the affect of the CAI, i.e you'll now be sucking at least some of the induction air through the new holes in the box which is still sitting in a bath of hot air, so less cool air from the CAI will be getting into the engine.

[JohnL]

I finally got around to removing that fat white resonator from underneath the filter box in my F22B1 (vtec) 97 accord to augment my HKS panel filter.

Stupidly though instead of filling up the same petrol to compare the before and after performance, I filled up with vortex and now the car seems a bit less responsive at low revs (below 4000)- did anyone else find this? Or is the car just less surgey and I'm just feeling it to be less responsive?

What does other ppl who've done this before think...

Most resonators that I'm aware of don't actually flow induction air through the resonator, rather the opening to the resonator is merely in the wall of the induction tubing. This allows the sonic waves in the induction tube to be intercepted and dissipated as thay pass by the opening into the resonator void, without induction air having to actually pass through it (the resonator probably can't actually flow air since it probably has no 'inlet'). This is how my CB7's stock resonator was set up, but it may not hold true for all set ups(?).

Did you only take the resonator off leaving the resonator opening in the induction pipe open, or did you take it off and block the resonator opening in the induction pipe?

In theory, if you shorten the induction tract you will tend to lose bottom end power, but pick up some at higher rpm (it's a harmonic resonance thing). In reality I can't imagine it's really that simple and that the actual result will probably vary from app to app, even if the theory may generally hold true more often than not. If you left the opening in the induction pipe open then I'll bet you've effectively shortened the induction pipe, thus may have lost some bottom end. If you're lucky you might have picked up some top end...

On my CB7 I've ditched the resonator and fitted a home made CAI that feeds through the standard filter box from high up just inside the fender cavity (Honda thoughtfully provided an aperture leading into this space that only required a little enlargement by the delicate means of a hammer!). I used a short length of 3" PVC plumbing tube (flared at both ends) for the new piping, and cut a new hole in the filter box to suit, blanking off the old holes.

If nothing else this definitely results in a significant increase in the size of the most restrictive parts of the induction system, which on the CB7 is the two smaller diameter tubes leading into the filter, the single 3" pipe being substantially bigger in cross section / area than the two smaller stock tubes added together.

My unreliable seat of the pants impression after fitting this was a slight improvement in response, and a weeny bit more power in the mid range and top end. It didn't seem to actually hurt anywhere, but a dyno may or may not disagree. The induction definitely sounds better though! Not noticably much louder on light throttle, but a 'healthy' roar when you floor it and rev it out.

[Riviera]

when i first got my CD5 vti-s i removed the air intake consisting of

airbox
resonator
snail thingo at the front (see picture) thats right, it feeds right back into the engine lol in front of the battery... warm air anyone?
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/Riviera001/Picture027-1.jpg

i removed all this and used a podfilter all dodged up using PVC Pipe angle and shizz king dodge sounded awesome but i now notice after the refitment of the stock airbox that the pod wasnt really helping at all lol spose it performed alright for what it was...

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/Riviera001/Picture073.jpg

i have the stock airbox back in and resonator left out, because i love the sound. performs alot better than the dodgepod aswell.

lookin at getting a full CAI, theres some wierd things on the CD5 intake tubing though...

[JohnL]

Is all that housed inside the fender, or is the black box the filter box? Looks like it, but it's not obvious from the pic just how the two boxes can be separated, one in the fender cavity and the other in the engine bay with a panel between them?

The filter box is so large it looks like effectively two resonator boxes in series, and it's obvious that in this application the induction air is being drawn through the resonator(s).

I can't see a good reason why Honda is then drawing air from the engine bay, though just behind the headlight (in front of the battery) is probably the coolest air you'll find in the engine bay.

It may be that they are taking pains to ensure that air is being drawn from as high up as possible, but if they were drawing from high up inside the fender (rather than engine bay) the flow might not be good because of the white resonator blocking up flow into the fender cavity??

[Riviera]

black box is the filter box itself

white box is the resonator housed in the fender

feed pipe sits right in front of the filter box and the little tab sits across the battery but, the feed is so much smaller

[Feverpitched]

Hmmm, so the CD5 actually has 2 resonators? The most common resonator, and the one discussed by the Zoom article, is the small black one that comes off the rubber intake elbow (in the engine bay pic above, it comes out opposite the 45degree left bend in the rubber elbow).

[Feverpitched]

Update, the CD5 has THREE resonators. Will post a detailed pic up tomorrow when I finalise my pod filter install. Bloody hell, what was Honda thinking?

[Riviera]

i'll post it up

first picture top view of stock system
from this view u can see 2 resonators i have labelled them in teh second picture and taken a page from the shop manual
and down sized it, roger dodge but u get it

in neither of the first two pictures can u see the 1st of 3 resonators but its the large white box in the third and fourth picture.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/Riviera001/AirSystem.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/Riviera001/31122007500copy.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/Riviera001/Picture017-1.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/Riviera001/Picture028.jpg

[Feverpitched]

Thanks Riviera, saves me uploading pics :)

I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw the IAR system lurking under the elbow, complete with butterfly and solenoid. The question I have now is whether these resonators are meant to reduce noise, or to improve performance? The question begs because my car with the pod intake is a LOT noisier than the stock setup, to the point when every man and his shitbox thinks i'm racing them :eek:

[Riviera]

i think theyre for noise as it is usually loudest around 2900 to 3700

post some pics up of ur setup

[Feverpitched]

Nothing special, just an intake I bought off another forum member.

http://users.tpg.com.au/adslv2tm/Accord/engine_bay.jpg

... re-used one of the bolts from the airbox to secure the mounting piece, which I bent to suit.

http://users.tpg.com.au/adslv2tm/Accord/pod_mount.jpg

Well worth it IMHO :thumbsup:

[Riviera]

looks like the one off ebay, and same colour car as mine and u got same screwdrivers lol

[Feverpitched]

Don't know the origin of the pipe, but it sure is light and does the job fine.

And magnetic tip screwdrivers are cool, they've saved my skin many a time, literally.

[Spoon-Accord]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/spoon-accord/DSC00318.jpg

this is my first accord engine bay, the stock intake system is hideous!!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/spoon-accord/ken4olinda-0040.jpg

then for the new engine, i just made up a custom stainless pipe. ;)

[Riviera]

vnice vnice, nice stainless intake.
also cant seem to find might need to search more but might aswell ask you first hand, how was it doing the conversion when needed to be changed, was it just a clean drop in or do mounts have to be moved???

[sugz]

just use rear prelude and everything else you can use accord mounts
and its jst drop in with few wiring headaches...

[Feverpitched]

I love the racing spec zip ties :)

[mekros]

Good to see you cleaned up the dodgy install we did Feverpitched :)

How come your avatar isn't moving? ;)

[Feverpitched]

Dodgy? I reckon our first 5 minute install job was very well done given the circumstances... :p

And I don't know why she's not moving either :(

[Riviera]

Bought and Installed my intake - got it off Ebay...

Stock intake Cleared out

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/Riviera001/12012008552.jpg

New Intake Mounted

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/Riviera001/12012008555.jpg

Bracket Placement Underneath where it is barely noticeable

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/Riviera001/12012008556.jpg




now what do i do with this lol,

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/Riviera001/12012008557.jpg

[JohnL]

now what do i do with this lol,

Drill / file a suitable hole in the new intake tube, fit a rubber grommet and insert the breather tube (into the grommet that is...).

While you're at it, you can open up the end of the breather tube (where it tapers down) for an increase in breather flow (shove the closed jaws of a needle nose plier into the end, push and twist, the taper will spread).

Here's why you might want to do this:
In normal operation with an engine in very good nick the PCV will control breather flow through this tube (attached to the induction pipe), i.e. the plenum vacuum 'sucks' blow by gasses from the crankcase through the PVC, but in order for this to occur without the possibility of creating a negative pressure in the crankcase filtered air is 'sucked' through this tube from the induction pipe into the crankcase (to ensure that an airflow always exists through the crankcase).

With an older engine with significant blowby pressure the crankcase can become too pressurised for the PCV to adeqately vent the crankcase, and blow by gas will now not only flow through PCV, but also 'backwards' through the tube attached to the induction pipe then into the induction pipe (this is why the throttle body and the throttle body end of the induction pipe can get oiled up, i.e. from gasses coming from the crankcase). Opening the end of that tube fitting will increase flow, so crankcase pressure won't get quite so high, which is a good thing.

[Riviera]

thanks for the info man, but i was only wondering what to do about the coolant line side of things the breather is sorted

i was thinking just get some brass, fittings and make something up or one full piece hose

[BUN-135]

Heres how mine look like


http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w156/BUN-135/9.jpg


http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w156/BUN-135/8.jpg

[JohnL]

thanks for the info man, but i was only wondering what to do about the coolant line side of things the breather is sorted

i was thinking just get some brass, fittings and make something up or one full piece hose

Sorry, I now see what you've done with the new yellow breather hose in the photo above. It's just that all I could see amiss in the last shot was the open end of the stock breather tube.

I'd just ditch the metal section and use a longer section of new rubber hose to connect the coolant ports. Path of least resistance and will look fine.

[Riviera]

yea thought that too lol cheers mete :thumbsup:

[Riviera]

Heres how mine look like

nice reuse of the breather pipe, sigh didnt even think of that lol might actually do it



i think i might buy an extra curve piece and make it CAI aswell

[Spoon-Accord]

do what johnL recomends, thats what i did on both my accords at the time, :)

[Riviera]

Dodgy? I reckon our first 5 minute install job was very well done given the circumstances... :p

And I don't know why she's not moving either :(

how dodgey??? got any pics lol


i got pics of a very dodgey install in mine

[ktvin09]

Anyone know if its worth to take out the resi on the 06 civic fd?

[Riviera]

i would say performance wise only at high revs... sound yes...

performance wise only at high revs because that the stock intake system has a balanced designed to have optimal performance over the full rev range, dependant on where it is located im assuming the wheel well behind the bumper if it is removed it will then lead to the eninge getting some form of cold air so at higher rpm it may help

sound... well, might be noticable mainly between 3500 to 6krpm i know mine was till i got a SRI now its ten times louder than before

might wana put that post up in the civic 2001+ section??? i would like to know also cause my misses has a FD1
start a new thread perhaps with the title

(Civic FD Resonator Removal - Worth it "yes or no"...)

[ktvin09]

Thx Riviera I'll start a new thread :)

[liman]

Is there any EXI user trying to install CAI? All I can see in the pictures are VTEC :(

I'm still a bit confused on how to fit it in, is it the same with VTEC version?

Injen's manual's a bit hard to understand for a newbie like me :o

Oh and do we actually have to remove the resonator in order to fit a CAI?

[Vinnie]

sri, no. cai, yes. but in any case the reason people remove is to allow a flow of cold air so you would prob want to remove it anyway :)

[Riviera]

u can install it in an EXI yea, i think the only difference is the head on the engines F22b1 and F22b2 or f22b

[Element12]

No

rip out the white box

the con- yes read my last post- i drew up a ciggy butt + it burnt a hole in my filter

Ouch !

That can be fixed, just get some mesh and cover the hole, no more cigarettes getting up there ! :P

My resonator was black :/ How come everyone else's was white lol ?

[FAT VTI]

Mine was black too.

[Element12]

Maybe it was just a later batch :P

[Riviera]

you got one from the test pile lol

[xenonkuraz]

I just removed my resonator box. I was surprised to see that it was black (no, not from being dirty).

It took 15 mins and now the car feels more responsive at low-end, have yet to try high-end.

[Riviera]

it feels nice lol

[xenonkuraz]

As for sound, I don't hear any difference. Not sure if I should put a cai on

[Riviera]

lol if u want a demo of sound theres plenty on you tube if u want me to make one
just let me know, id be more than happy to make a sick intake noise video lol

[xenonkuraz]

please :)

[xenonkuraz]

I just did this mod to my new CD5. Made a hell of a difference.

Took all three resonators off, leaving the stock intake pipe and air box and replacing the OEM filter with a K&N panel filter.

Took it for a long drive, and the induction noise is sweet! Noticeably louder, especially when VTEC kicks in.

Nice cool passage of air from the fender well now as opposed to the maze the air had to travel through before (which was already hot to begin with).

Btw, previously I had a short ram intake AND a cold air intake on my old CD5. I must admit that although not as pretty, my modified stock air box seems to work much better.

[Deanmachine]

I got a K&N Panel Filter after i removed everything and it goes great. Sounds much throatier. Gets a bit dirty though if u drive it on dirt roads and crap. But cos its a K and N its easy to clean

[DownunderSiR]

qGreat thread,

does anybody consider that at least 4kg of weight is removed from the right side of the car as a gain in itself?

its also worth noting that you may want to reduce the cleaning intervals to 3-5000klm for the air filter, now that your air is coming from the inner guard & no resonator to act as a pre-filter. The fitment of a stainless steel mesh (i use HD SS Fly screen) should be mandatory, can attach to the air box inlet or screw / rivet into underside of the chassis. The latter then allows you can then incorporate a bell-mouth to incease velocity in the air box.

Note: dc2 ITR moved the air intake into the guard & ? removed the resonator (my memory is failing), it was one of the features at its JDM Launch........ so this may be a good mod after all.

[ash_dhs]

xenon, do u rkn u can get some pics up??

im interested...

[xenonkuraz]

good job glazewolf.

if anyone wants pics or needs help doing it in melb pm me

[mitch-10-02]

Bit of an old thread, but I thought I'd share

Today I had to take my front bar off and so I figured whilst its off I'd rip out my lower intake resonator. I left my stock intake box as is, it's getting all the air from where the res was so that's sweet.
After it was taken out I re-setted my ecu by just taking battery terminals off and took it for a drive. There's defiantly a difference in low end response. Engine felt so relieved and happy :)

Note: You definitely have to re-set ecu, otherwise it revs all funny

[ash_dhs]

I did this shortly after getting my car. Didnt really notice at the time, but I now find the car is really unresponsive at low revs (below approx 2300k). Cant really remember if it was like this with the resonator still attached...

Has anyone else experienced this?

[mitch-10-02]

I did this shortly after getting my car. Didnt really notice at the time, but I now find the car is really unresponsive at low revs (below approx 2300k). Cant really remember if it was like this with the resonator still attached...

Has anyone else experienced this?

Reset ur ecu. Shud fix it

[ash_dhs]

Resetting the ecu is just disconnecting then reconnecting the battery isnt it? Because I have done that heaps of times, so it would have to be reset by now...

For example I find that if I shift into say 3rd gear at 3000rpm, it is really slow/unresponsive until it gets to around 2300rpm in 3rd...Like even if I floor it there is a loud noise coming from the intake but its not throaty and I cant feel the power until around 2300ish rpm

[mitch-10-02]

Hmm yeah duno hey :|

[Holy Frog]

I am no expert, but I'd replace the resonator. If the problem persists, then the problem exists elsewhere.

[ash_dhs]

when u remove the 2 smaller resonators (one on top and and below the intake piping) it will leave 2 big circle holes in the intake piping wont it...?

did you guys cover it up otherwise dust will go straight through the intake, especially on gravel roads...

[xenonkuraz]

Yes you have to cover them up. Also, the car is MORE responsive with the 3 resonators out. When you disconnect the negative terminal to the battery pump the brake pedal for 10secs.

[ash_dhs]

thanks!

what do you use to cover the holes?

[xenonkuraz]

I've done the same thing a few times to different cords...just cut off the top of spray can bottle lids a bit larger in diameter than the hole...tape over it and around the hole with electrical tape and used a clamp to hold in place.

[xenonkuraz]

Also I recommend ditching the stock air box and putting in place a cold air intake.

[ash_dhs]

thanks xenon! awesome idea!

[xenonkuraz]

If you look at my recent posts I did a write up on how to make one.

[ash_dhs]

hmm i had a dig through your posts but couldnt find anything??

[xenonkuraz]

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?145214-f22b-mods-where-to-get

[Holy Frog]

OK, have looked at all posts and decided to finally go ahead and remove the main resonator. I am a noob and all thumbs, so was a little worried.

1994 CD5 2.2 Manual - came with black large resonator, instead of white.
F22B3 SOHC non-vtec.

1: Removed the front right wheel
2: Unscrewed the Philips head clips holding the rubber wheel arch covering.
3: Removed one size 10 small bolt holding together the bumper, lip and wheel arch cover
4: Removed the size 10 bolt holding the lip to the wheel arch guard.
5: Did not need to leverage the wheel arch guard or peel it back to far.

Then remove the resonater
6: Remove one size 10 bolt
7: Remove a really annoying size 10 bolt. This one was a real pain in the arse because it was at just to wrong angle to get any leverage onto it with the spanner. The bumper under the lip is fairly flexible, so don't worry too much about bending it to get better leverage on the pita bolt.
8: Remove the snail (from the engine bay)
9: Push down on the resonator while pulling down.

10: Replace all screws and bolts.
11: Undo negative battery terminal.
12: Replace the wheel (tighten your wheel nuts!)
13: Refit the negative terminal and start and idle until warm.

No special tools required.


Result: - exactly what I hoped for and better than expected sound.
1: Car did not produce any noticeable change to noise at idle - Good!
2: Idle characteristic exactly the same as before. - Good!
3: Partial throttle response - marginally better. - Negligble
4: Noise at partial openings - absolutely no noticeable difference - Good!
5: Full throttle? Awesome. Absolutely what I wanted to hear. There is no noise difference at 80% throttle. However, nail it and you get a beautiful, throaty induction. Induction sound starts at 2000rpm, and plateaus at 3000 - 5500. Note change resonance at roughly 4400 rpm and gets a little deeper. Note at 6500 rpm is as expected.
6: Cruise at 50kmh in second, nail the throttle and enjoy all the way to 90 in second. Sounds like vtec kicking in yo, lol.

I highly recommend this mod for anyone reading this thread looking for an intake sound upgrade, but worried about ruining their "good" car.


Now... time to find a F22B1 head ported polished and loaded with bisimoto stage 1 cam, springs and retainers....

[xenonkuraz]

should just do the cold air induction while you're at it...

the induction noise you hear now is only 10% compared to what can be achieved without the air box

[Holy Frog]

should just do the cold air induction while you're at it...
the induction noise you hear now is only 10% compared to what can be achieved without the air box

CAI - Well Visually, the air now going into the airbox is coming from the bumper - the inlet into the airbox, is far lower than the "snail" inlet. Living in Darwin, a CAI is probably a little too dangerous (see 440mm of rain in one day last week...)

The box for K&N filters suggests 4.x CFM for a panel filter and 8.x CFM for a pod in terms of air flow.

The thing I like about the current sound is the ability to cruise and accelerate incognito, as long as you dont go beyond 80% ish throttle - perfect for transporting older family members.
But, when the urge takes me - (i.e. every single time I drove alone) full throttle sounds rorty, but another decibel or two would be nice.

The K&N panel filter costs $144 new from Repco. Can anyone recommend it for improved response, bang for buck wise?

(I expect negligible or zero actual power increase. )

[xenonkuraz]

Being a k&n it is probably going to be an oiled one...

I recommend if you want an aftermarket panel filter, look into dry type ones like Apexi. They will have higher cfm and cheaper too. And less maintenance.

Btw, just by putting in a better filter you will get an increase in power due to better air flow, although as you say negligible. But still something

[Holy Frog]

Thanks again, Xenonkuraz.

Its curious and I'm entirely convinced, but it seems after a few days of driving the intake resonance is quietening down.
Still feels the same and the idle and mid range are still sweet and clean, but I think intake resonance I experienced in the first day or so is starting to reduce.

Anyone else experience this or should I lay off the booze? :)


I've had a look at APEXi and they look good - but I cant see an Panel for an Accord, and not on ebay either. Did they ever make one for a CD5 airbox?

[xenonkuraz]

Hrmm maybe I was mistaken. I did have apexi panel filters for my other cars...

Stick a cone filter on for fun! :)

[Holy Frog]

Its curious and I'm not entirely convinced, but it seems after a few days of driving the intake resonance is quietening down.
Still feels the same and the idle and mid range are still sweet and clean, but I think intake resonance I experienced in the first day or so is starting to reduce.

Anyone else experience this or should I lay off the booze? :)

Ok a few days later - and Im fairly definitely convinced that something changed gradually, to reduce the resonance. Although its still there and the car sounds great - its definitely quieter than it was on day 1 and 2.

I have investigated a F22B1/2/3 Apexi and the closes they can get is an F23 motor one, which is completely different. I should probably go the cone filter.

[sugz]

You're used to the sound

[xenonkuraz]

what sugz said