MingZai
11-03-2012, 06:53 PM
Hey guy's I currently have a lot of people asking me about the Weapon R Headers, Injen and information in general about getting more power to the car...
So I have decided to start up a wiki which I will edit and add more information as it grows.
It will be split into a few parts.
INTAKE
HEADERS
EXHAUST
ECU
Please bear with me as I have lots of information on the thing's I'm about to post on and I will just do a quick summary as I'm currently preparing my Euro for Winton tomorrow but I PROMISE I will explain in GREAT detail into each part.
The point of this thread is so all this information can be accessed through ONE thread and to reduce the echo echo echo echo.... / number of threads that ask the same question.
BACKGROUND INFORMATION ON THE CAR ITSELF :
There CL9 was made from 2003-2008 and is known as the Honda Accord Euro in Australia.
It came in Manual and Auto (With a sequential shifter), Basic and Luxury models. The basic model has a kerb weight of 1430KG (MANUAL) / 1440 (AUTOMATIC) and the luxury model with the leather seats + sunroof weighs approx 1460KG (MANUAL) / 1470kg (AUTOMATIC). The CL9 is powered by a 2.4L 4 cylinder DOHC i-VTEC Engine known as the K24A3, here are the specs:
Displacement: 2,354 cc (143.6 cu in)
Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43 x 3.90 inches)
Compression: 10.5:1
Power: 189 hp (140 kW) @ 6800 rpm
Torque: 164.5 lb·ft (223;N·m) @ 4500 rpm
Redline: 7200 rpm
VTEC Engagement: 6000 rpm
In regards to bolt ons if you want to get the best power out of your car it would be done in the following order:
HEADER
CAT (Catalytic Converter)
INTAKE
EXHAUST
ECU Management Tuning
In the order from most restrictive to the least restrictive.
HERE WE GO:
INTAKE
Injen CAI Intake (Interchangeable to SRI) :
Description:The Injen CAI Intake is classified as a cold air intake and replaces the OEM intake completely. So all the stock pipes, boxes and filter is removed and replaced with a sexy piece of stainless steel pipe and a massive mushroom that sits behind the front left mudguard.
Power: The power difference is only felt approx after 3-4k RPM due to the fact that after installing this intake, the power is shifted to the top end thus reducing the power slightly in the low end. Expect a gain of approx +10HP and 8.1 Torque (Dyno proven but probably a bit less in real life figures). Also the chances of hydrolocking is minimal
Sound: Sound wise you really can't hear any difference compared to the OEM unless you WOT it or surpass ~3k RPM.
AEM Performance SRI System: Coming Soon
Comptech Icebox:
Description: The Comptech Icebox is quite similar to the OEM Intake but just has a lot lot lot less tubing. I would personally classify it as a Cold Air Intake (a few vendors do so as well) because it takes in air from the front bumper (similar to the Injen CAI) but the filter is located next to the battery and not prone to hydrolocking whereas the Injen CAI is.
Power: There will certainly be a power increase but probably not as much as the Injen CAI (but the difference is really really minimal) and of course a much much better improvement compared to OEM. The power increase is going to be more found in the low to mid RPM due to the tubing being shorter (from the filter to the engine) in comparison to the CAI's that has the mushroom located at the front bumper. It also has a "box" which just reduces heatstroke to give it better performance.
Sound: Not much difference when just driving casually but once your WOTing you will certainly hear a sound difference (meaner sound).
HEADER
Weapon R Header:
Description: The Weapon R Header is probably one of the best bang for the buck headers you can get. It is a massive massive improvement over the OEM one as it just allows so much more air flow due to the sizing of the pipes. If you want more power for your CL9 the one thing you MUST change is the headers. The headers of the stock CL9 is one of the most restrictive parts of the car and once you change it you will feel a much much more better throttle response. Some have said "Fredoops" :p that it is quite similar to the J's Racing Header but because the J's Racing Header is designed for the K20, to have it in our CL9 you will have to modify the subframe.
Power: Like I said in the description you are going to get so much more power out of your car with a new header and with the Weapon R Header even more power. But keep in mind to install this you will need to use the test pipe that comes along with the header and what you have to do is to purchase an aftermarket CAT and cut the test pipe into pieces and weld the aftermarket CAT onto the test pipe so it will fit the Weapon R Header. So what it would look like is...
WEAPON R HEADER > WEAPON R TEST PIPE + CAT WELDED ON > CATBACK EXHAUST.
Sound: You really won't hear any difference in sound if your running stock exhaust apart from a slight hissing (sort of sounds like a gas leak).
TO BE CONTINUED... :UPDATING MY BUILD THREAD ATM and going to sleep soon due to having to drive to Winton at like 5 in the morning tomorrow :(
NOTE: If you want to add in reviews for parts that I haven't listed ect ect just pm me so I can "review" the content before placing it into the wiki to keep it more clean.
So I have decided to start up a wiki which I will edit and add more information as it grows.
It will be split into a few parts.
INTAKE
HEADERS
EXHAUST
ECU
Please bear with me as I have lots of information on the thing's I'm about to post on and I will just do a quick summary as I'm currently preparing my Euro for Winton tomorrow but I PROMISE I will explain in GREAT detail into each part.
The point of this thread is so all this information can be accessed through ONE thread and to reduce the echo echo echo echo.... / number of threads that ask the same question.
BACKGROUND INFORMATION ON THE CAR ITSELF :
There CL9 was made from 2003-2008 and is known as the Honda Accord Euro in Australia.
It came in Manual and Auto (With a sequential shifter), Basic and Luxury models. The basic model has a kerb weight of 1430KG (MANUAL) / 1440 (AUTOMATIC) and the luxury model with the leather seats + sunroof weighs approx 1460KG (MANUAL) / 1470kg (AUTOMATIC). The CL9 is powered by a 2.4L 4 cylinder DOHC i-VTEC Engine known as the K24A3, here are the specs:
Displacement: 2,354 cc (143.6 cu in)
Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43 x 3.90 inches)
Compression: 10.5:1
Power: 189 hp (140 kW) @ 6800 rpm
Torque: 164.5 lb·ft (223;N·m) @ 4500 rpm
Redline: 7200 rpm
VTEC Engagement: 6000 rpm
In regards to bolt ons if you want to get the best power out of your car it would be done in the following order:
HEADER
CAT (Catalytic Converter)
INTAKE
EXHAUST
ECU Management Tuning
In the order from most restrictive to the least restrictive.
HERE WE GO:
INTAKE
Injen CAI Intake (Interchangeable to SRI) :
Description:The Injen CAI Intake is classified as a cold air intake and replaces the OEM intake completely. So all the stock pipes, boxes and filter is removed and replaced with a sexy piece of stainless steel pipe and a massive mushroom that sits behind the front left mudguard.
Power: The power difference is only felt approx after 3-4k RPM due to the fact that after installing this intake, the power is shifted to the top end thus reducing the power slightly in the low end. Expect a gain of approx +10HP and 8.1 Torque (Dyno proven but probably a bit less in real life figures). Also the chances of hydrolocking is minimal
Sound: Sound wise you really can't hear any difference compared to the OEM unless you WOT it or surpass ~3k RPM.
AEM Performance SRI System: Coming Soon
Comptech Icebox:
Description: The Comptech Icebox is quite similar to the OEM Intake but just has a lot lot lot less tubing. I would personally classify it as a Cold Air Intake (a few vendors do so as well) because it takes in air from the front bumper (similar to the Injen CAI) but the filter is located next to the battery and not prone to hydrolocking whereas the Injen CAI is.
Power: There will certainly be a power increase but probably not as much as the Injen CAI (but the difference is really really minimal) and of course a much much better improvement compared to OEM. The power increase is going to be more found in the low to mid RPM due to the tubing being shorter (from the filter to the engine) in comparison to the CAI's that has the mushroom located at the front bumper. It also has a "box" which just reduces heatstroke to give it better performance.
Sound: Not much difference when just driving casually but once your WOTing you will certainly hear a sound difference (meaner sound).
HEADER
Weapon R Header:
Description: The Weapon R Header is probably one of the best bang for the buck headers you can get. It is a massive massive improvement over the OEM one as it just allows so much more air flow due to the sizing of the pipes. If you want more power for your CL9 the one thing you MUST change is the headers. The headers of the stock CL9 is one of the most restrictive parts of the car and once you change it you will feel a much much more better throttle response. Some have said "Fredoops" :p that it is quite similar to the J's Racing Header but because the J's Racing Header is designed for the K20, to have it in our CL9 you will have to modify the subframe.
Power: Like I said in the description you are going to get so much more power out of your car with a new header and with the Weapon R Header even more power. But keep in mind to install this you will need to use the test pipe that comes along with the header and what you have to do is to purchase an aftermarket CAT and cut the test pipe into pieces and weld the aftermarket CAT onto the test pipe so it will fit the Weapon R Header. So what it would look like is...
WEAPON R HEADER > WEAPON R TEST PIPE + CAT WELDED ON > CATBACK EXHAUST.
Sound: You really won't hear any difference in sound if your running stock exhaust apart from a slight hissing (sort of sounds like a gas leak).
TO BE CONTINUED... :UPDATING MY BUILD THREAD ATM and going to sleep soon due to having to drive to Winton at like 5 in the morning tomorrow :(
NOTE: If you want to add in reviews for parts that I haven't listed ect ect just pm me so I can "review" the content before placing it into the wiki to keep it more clean.