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View Full Version : bb/bmc install on eg



kcokla
18-03-2012, 08:14 PM
Hi ozh,

few problems here

Put in a vtir bmc and bb today, and i am wondering how do people put these in and take them out ?

I eventually got it in with great difficulty but cannot imagine taking it out.

secondly, from my experience with this the two brake lines connecting the bmc to the prop valve.

one of the brake lines that connects to the bmc is fine but the other one - the bolt part is too small to connect to the bmc

anyone else have this problem/what do i do ?

after some guesses however - im lead to believe my bmc is not from a dc2vtir and perhaps from a type R cause i would assume the brakeline would be thicker/bigger and hence need to be reflawed with my stock lines.

Can someone perhaps also clarify, if the bmc on a dc2 line up straight and parralell - just like the stock eg one, where as the dc2r lines are not straight and parrallel, and that one is angled upwards

thanks ozh

na-118
18-03-2012, 08:38 PM
to remove it easier,

remove pin adjust the rod all the way in,
remove mounting bolts + brake lines and remove it

it is nearly impossible to remove a brake booster with the rod adjusted to how it was

for the brake line you need to chop and reflare to suit usually 12mm or 10mm can't remember

totti
18-03-2012, 08:44 PM
empty ur PM box KC

kcokla
18-03-2012, 08:57 PM
for the brake line you need to chop and reflare to suit usually 12mm or 10mm can't remember

I understand this, but is it normal? as in, i read lots about doing the conversion and never stumbled on this

any idea hpow much this is going to cost me?
i did nearly all of this today and this came up and i got so frustrated because id idnt want to undo all my hard work!

na-118
18-03-2012, 09:03 PM
ill do it for 50 bucks , it's normal for all egs

kcokla
19-03-2012, 08:10 AM
I'm surprised this is for all eg's.

Is it correct, that i would have to cut around 1mm off the brake line , take out the nut and add the 12mm then reflare it?

can someone 100% this?

Egxris
19-03-2012, 08:34 AM
yes that is correct Kcokla. If you dont have the flaring tool. just pop down to a brake shop and they will be able to flare on the 12mm fitting should only cost $5? this is for the 1" brake master cylinder rear brake line fitting. Also remember to upgrade your Brake Prop valve if youve gone to disks from drum.

I got a brake prop valve from the states for $50 delivered so just look around on ebay usa theres always heaps on there cheap. (im using a 40/40)

dorikin
19-03-2012, 11:09 AM
I'm surprised this is for all eg's.

Is it correct, that i would have to cut around 1mm off the brake line , take out the nut and add the 12mm then reflare it?

can someone 100% this?

Not all EG's.. depends which Brake Master Cylinder (BMC) you get. I upgraded to EK4 BMC & BB and didn't have to re-flare the lines, they both had 10mm fittings.

I believe DC2 Integra VTI-R with ABS has the one 12mm flare nut fitting and one 10mm. Is your VTI-R BMC a 15/16" or 1"?




Can someone perhaps also clarify, if the bmc on a dc2 line up straight and parralell - just like the stock eg one, where as the dc2r lines are not straight and parrallel, and that one is angled upwards



Pre-facelift DC2 has the front brake line port pointed to the side like EG's whereas Facelift DC2 had it angled up 90deg like EK's.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?144563-DC2-4-BMC-outlet-ports-same-as-EG

If you wanted a straight fit into an EG, then Pre-facelift DC4 GSI would be best. It's Non-ABS and has the same brake line ports.


BTW Egxris my Type-R 1" BMC has both 10mm fitting....

kcokla
19-03-2012, 11:20 AM
Thanks for the response,

I do indeed have he facelifted dc2 one i believe. - from a vtir.

Coudlnt tell you if its 15/16 or 1" cause its on the car already and its on the inside of the firewall part - is this right?


I guess i'll have to decide if i should get the prefacelift bmc/bb then ...



I upgraded to Dc2vtir BMC & BB to suit ek4 brakes

Prop valve lines all the same?


Just gotta decide if i should try to take out the bmc/bb again and put in another one or if i should just reflare the line.

suggestions?

ps - rep point added.

Egxris
19-03-2012, 11:20 AM
Yeh not sure what 1" one i have probably is off a VTIR. but only needs that flared fitting putting on and its sorted. paid $20 for the brake master and booster.

Egxris
19-03-2012, 11:22 AM
Since youve already got it in there and all you need is a 12mm fitting flared on may as well go get it done. and your finished no point in pulling it out and replacing/buying a new one if you can get the job finished for $5.

Btw it should say on the side of the master cylinder what size it is. or on the end. its fully visible when installed.

kcokla
19-03-2012, 11:40 AM
I'l get it checked,

I want to get the 12mm flared - but the car is not driveable now because of the brake line so ill have to get someone out there

i thought about buying the ttool and see its around 50 bucks, but i dont have another tool to cut off the existing flare to reflare it!

My guess is id have to take the brake line off completely or get someone to come over.

Egxris
19-03-2012, 11:43 AM
Just remove the line from the prop valve and take it down to a shop to have it either "copied" or cut and reflared. go home and put it back on. Rebleed. Job done!

kcokla
19-03-2012, 11:46 AM
Thanks for that!

i remember havnig a great deal fo trouble getting the brake line off the prop valve too...
im going to get that done

Bludger
19-03-2012, 11:57 AM
interesting, good info here guise.

Egxris
19-03-2012, 11:59 AM
Thanks for that!

i remember havnig a great deal fo trouble getting the brake line off the prop valve too...
im going to get that done



always a pain in the arse to remove helps having the right tool for them (ring spanner with a slit to clear the line) so it doesnt round.

dorikin
19-03-2012, 12:26 PM
I do indeed have he facelifted dc2 one i believe. - from a vtir.

Coudlnt tell you if its 15/16 or 1" cause its on the car already and its on the inside of the firewall part - is this right?

No, it's stamped on the right side of the Master Cylinder.

Example:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2531/4117067930_d2dd0ca72d_b.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2502/4116296917_02b99a3a2e_b.jpg




Prop valve lines all the same?


They will vary depending on ABS/Non-ABS, DC2/EK prop valve shape

Closest match to an EG is from a Pre-facelift Non-ABS DC2/4


Agreed with Egxris, just finish it..

Egxris
19-03-2012, 02:41 PM
Grab one of these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Acura-40-40-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-40-40-Prop-rear-disc-4040-/150773600691?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231ace91b3&vxp=mtr

kcokla
19-03-2012, 03:14 PM
Thanks for the info!

ive got the right prop valve and i guess ive got everything good to go - minus the ability to flare the damn thing!

na-118
19-03-2012, 05:10 PM
buy the tools and ill buy it off you once its done for 25

kcokla
19-03-2012, 06:01 PM
I've decided to take the brake lines out and take it to a shop to cut it and reflare it for me!

thanks for the info guys,

Egxris
20-03-2012, 11:56 AM
Btw, this is the Brake master im going to use on mine with the 12mm brake line at the rear. Has a 1 on the circle bit below the reservoir

21401

dorikin
20-03-2012, 12:47 PM
most likely aftermarket but still a score for $20

Egxris
20-03-2012, 01:41 PM
Guy who sold it to me said it came off an integra doesnt look aftermarket, its original oem. ive got the brake booster that goes with it as well. Just needs a rear main O ring.

But it does look LHD from the way the brake lines are bent.

Bludger
20-03-2012, 01:43 PM
I don't trust used master cylinders.

Egxris
20-03-2012, 01:45 PM
Hence why its getting a new seal put in. Not much to them internally

dorikin
20-03-2012, 02:22 PM
Easy to tell, most OEM are made by Nissin

http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/9416/integragsmc2ra1.jpg

Egxris
20-03-2012, 02:29 PM
Yep sure is NISSIN

kcokla
21-03-2012, 12:34 PM
OK. I've got a 1 inch bmc and Bb and 4040 prop valve.

Should be all good right?

mocchi
21-03-2012, 01:18 PM
OK. I've got a 1 inch bmc and Bb and 4040 prop valve.

Should be all good right?

get ready for leaking prop valve

kcokla
21-03-2012, 02:39 PM
What do you suggest/what needs to be done ?

fyi

262 fronts/ 240 rears + 1inch bmc/bb + 4040 prop valve no good?

mocchi
21-03-2012, 02:52 PM
What do you suggest/what needs to be done ?

fyi

262 fronts/ 240 rears + 1inch bmc/bb + 4040 prop valve no good?

thats what i had, brake fluid would weep from the black rubber fitting in prop valve
then it would drip down on firewall and subframe, stripping all paint on its path
goes back to bare metal, the longer you drive, the more it will rust.

mindblown annoyance

kcokla
21-03-2012, 02:59 PM
smaller bmc/bb you reakon?

mocchi
21-03-2012, 03:01 PM
smaller bmc/bb you reakon?

tbh idk, im gonna be using 1" bmc, new 4040, and 282 fronts.
hopefully it wont leak in the prop valve, i dont even know if that would make any difference

kcokla
21-03-2012, 03:05 PM
My guess is it would for yourse tup

1"bmc/bb is the same in a dc2r is this not correct?
dc2r front is 282 /40/40 from what i know?
there are guys who run non abs prop valves in their dc2r's to delete the abs etc.




------->
did your one leak (same set up as mine) straight away or was it slow and over time or only when you were pushing it etc.

mocchi
21-03-2012, 03:08 PM
My guess is it would for yourse tup

1"bmc/bb is the same in a dc2r is this not correct? yes
dc2r front is 282 /40/40 from what i know? 98+ yes
there are guys who run non abs prop valves in their dc2r's to delete the abs etc.




------->
did your one leak (same set up as mine) straight away or was it slow and over time or only when you were pushing it etc.

started to leak when i brake harder than normal driving.
it weeps a lil bit when you brake but gradually accumulates and will start to drip down

once youre done with your conversion, just keep an eye on the prop valve every 2 days or so
might start to leak.

kcokla
21-03-2012, 03:10 PM
thanks for that,

the problem is now
if i flare my damn brake line ill have to reflare or get a new one when i change the bmc/bb again.

bloody hell.

cnat even drive now because of all this!

i tried to change the bmc/bb back but i couldnt get it back out.

Bludger
21-03-2012, 03:20 PM
you can drive, just cant stop.

egb16b
24-03-2012, 01:13 AM
started to leak when i brake harder than normal driving.
it weeps a lil bit when you brake but gradually accumulates and will start to drip down

once youre done with your conversion, just keep an eye on the prop valve every 2 days or so
might start to leak.

Hmm noo shitt..??

Did you just leave it or what can be done to remedy this??

Do you know why it would do this?? Are the brakelines a couple mm thicker in the dc2r or something?? So it gets overfilled and finds it way out through the prop valve?

I'm about to change my BB/BMC to 1" from a dc2 with 262/240 setup.. But stock 30/40 prop valve.

Interesting read this is..

kcokla
24-03-2012, 01:23 AM
After some research, ive never heard of it leaking other than his experience.

Not sure if its just undocumented or he just unlucky - but i would liek to see more evidence/stories from others.

grifty
24-03-2012, 07:57 AM
I'm surprised this is for all eg's.

Is it correct, that i would have to cut around 1mm off the brake line , take out the nut and add the 12mm then reflare it?

can someone 100% this?

Yes thats correct, pirtek charges under $20 to do this (cant remeber exact quote).

Prop valves do tend to leak overtime, it just depends on its condition.

And i dont think any aftermarket company made a 1inch master cylinder, biggest i have seen is 15/16.

dorikin
24-03-2012, 08:49 AM
they're available http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brake-Master-Cylinder-Honda-Integra-1-8-ABS-8-93-12-94-/160708841977?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256afe51f9