Castrol edge 5w 30 or 5w 40

[blackdc2r]

hi there, just wondering which oil would be recommended. Im on 5w 30 at this moment and i drove 3-4k and the oil dropped down to 1/4 above the lower dot. Would you consider this as burning heaps and should I move on to 5w 40?

[SuperJDM.]

it depends on how many KMs your engine has traveled mate, how many KMs has it done?

[trism]

Yeah may as well, give it a try and see how much you burn.

[SuperJDM.]

keep vtec on the low too

[blackdc2r]

it depends on how many KMs your engine has traveled mate, how many KMs has it done?

my car has done 155k km soo far

[anzai]

5W40 or 10w40 should do the trick



source: personal experience

[stndrd]

I would run a Nulon 10W60 or 15W50 full synthetic for the mileage on your engine

[m3ntAL_l2]

Nulon any good? Seems very cheap fo 6L compare to castrol

[stndrd]

The 6L bottles are either a high quality mineral or semi synthetic, where as Full Synthetic only comes in 5L bottles. Still a very good oil compared to other oils of similar grading.

Penrite HPR or 10/10ths series of oils are also very good value. 15W60 is very good

[dougie_504]

I use the Nulon 10W-40 fully synthetic in my b16a. Love it, good oil.

[dc2r-0636]

Currently using nulon 10w-40 in my dc2r, IMO worst oil I've tried

[dc2r-0636]

I would run a Nulon 10W60 or 15W50 full synthetic for the mileage on your engine

Thats too thick for a b18c?

[EKVTIR-T]

Yeah 50-60 seems high for a dc2r. Pretty tight tolerances and not like its an old buick with 400k kms

[dougie_504]

Currently using nulon 10w-40 in my dc2r, IMO worst oil I've tried

Why? Please elaborate. Srs.

[senna]

Nulon 5W-30 Sunthetic in my EK, doesn't burn or use any with 162,000k's on the original motor - not tracked though...

[dc2r-0636]

Why? Please elaborate. Srs.

It's been 5000kms since my last service and during that time Ive had to top up around 200ml every 1000kms.

Where as when i was using honda mineral oil 10w30, I only added a total of 200ml during th 5000km interval.

My motor burns it, sitting on 107k

[trism]

Still don't understand people who do 5k oil changes.

Get a good quality group 4 base oil that meets BMW/Mercedes long life specifications and do 10 or 15k intervals.

[dougie_504]

It's been 5000kms since my last service and during that time Ive had to top up around 200ml every 1000kms.

Where as when i was using honda mineral oil 10w30, I only added a total of 200ml during th 5000km interval.

My motor burns it, sitting on 107k

This could just be because synthetic oils are more lubricating/slippery and likely to leak through gaps and burn. From my experience mineral oils tend to burn less.

Need to try another 10W-40 fully synth before you attribute the oil loss exclusively to Nulon.

[dc2r-0636]

This could just be because synthetic oils are more lubricating/slippery and likely to leak through gaps and burn. From my experience mineral oils tend to burn less.

Need to try another 10W-40 fully synth before you attribute the oil loss exclusively to Nulon.

I have used 5w30 Castrol edge sport and it burnt a tinge quicker then honda mineral oil. Nothing like the nulon

[stndrd]

Explain to me how a 10W60 or 15W50 are to thick of an oil? The 10 or 15 is the base viscosity of the oil and the 50 or 60 shows the maximum heat range before it breaks downs and stops lubricating. I ran Nulon 15W50 on my B18C for multiple track days and approx 15,000km on the street after running edge sport 5W30 & 10W60 found that the Nulon is a very good street oil, tho it does burn off a bit more compared to Motul or Royal Purple group 5 oils.

Also I have spoken to Nulon on numerous occasions when I was doing oil testing and they recommend anything up to a 20W in a Honda is good for a higher mileage motor

[trism]

I'm going to disagree with you on what the numbers mean.

The second number is not when it breaks down, but how it flows at a temperature of 100 degrees Celsius, thru a set sized orifice

The W temperature is how the oil performance when at a set cold temperature.

[EKVTIR-T]

The numbers are the viscosity/thickness or speed of flow through viscometer.The 2nd number being at 100° C or general operating temp.

Nothing to do with breaking down

So 10W60 at operating temp. will be twice as thick as 10w30...not what I would want in a dc2r or any b series engine

[oopoc]

Seriously bad info here. Would never consider anything thicker than a 0w something. 90%of engine wear is at startup and NO engine oil to date is thin enough for startup. Google search 'bob the oil guy' (I posted it in the technical area too) before you start giving recommendations you NEED to know what those numbers mean and how oil works within internal combustion engines.

[EKVTIR-T]

Magnatec salesman

[senna]

So when Honda recommend 5W-30 for their motors they are just messing around?

[SuperJDM.]

i use olive oil.

[oopoc]

So when Honda recommend 5W-30 for their motors they are just messing around?

No that's very possibly what their calculations and tests came up with in the 90s engine oils have come along way since then. Same with the capabilities of engines. Seriously give 'bob the oil guy' a read if you disagree then that's your opinion.

And also, adding thicker oil to stop a engine burning oil is one of the worst things you can do. The thicker oil dose not lubricate as well. Its much better to fix the problem and continue using the correct oil.

Also magnetic has to be one of the worst oils on the market

[RtN]

Check ur PCV valve, if not check your piston rings, fix. Using 5w-30 RP, doesnt move at all between 5,000 Km oil changes.

[Bludger]

The numbers are the viscosity/thickness or speed of flow through viscometer.The 2nd number being at 100° C or general operating temp.

Nothing to do with breaking down

So 10W60 at operating temp. will be twice as thick as 10w30...not what I would want in a dc2r or any b series engine
I run 10w60

problem?

[EKVTIR-T]

Actually yes

An engine with thick oil produces significantly less power, uses more fuel, produces more emissions and runs hotter, all contributing to shorter engine life.
A thinner oil can more easily and quickly be 'pumped-up' to the critical parts of the engine, takes less energy to move it around, helps the engine to produce more power, less emissions, better economy.
And the engine will last longer too!
This has been proven numerous times in test after test, by many different and highly respected testing facilities.

[Bludger]

Actually yes

An engine with thick oil produces significantly less power, uses more fuel, produces more emissions and runs hotter, all contributing to shorter engine life.
A thinner oil can more easily and quickly be 'pumped-up' to the critical parts of the engine, takes less energy to move it around, helps the engine to produce more power, less emissions, better economy.
And the engine will last longer too!
This has been proven numerous times in test after test, by many different and highly respected testing facilities.
Depends on the Motor's application and My motor requires 10w60.

:)

[Fredoops]

So when Honda recommend 5W-30 for their motors they are just messing around?

B/D-series allows Xw-50 as max iirc and K-series can use from Xw-20 to Xw-40 max

I see no reason what so ever for any K-series to use anything more than 40 weight however, due to our tight tolerances.


Honda recommends 5w-30 partly because their OEM oil happens to be 5w-30.

and partly because of our warn climate, theres no need for thicker oil, climate plays a factor too, for example, a Toyota Prius in Spain allows up to 10w-50, while in Sweden the limit is 5w-30.

[ralph_ef9]

This is fun, always good to know,
I'm using HPR 10 10w-40 in my 120,000km ZC. And it's 23 years old,
Don't know how much oil it burns, cuz every oil change is about 6 month by drive 2000kms max.
Any good?

[Stevil]

yeah the claim that 90% of engine wear occurs at start up is the buiggest load of marketing crap. If you jump in ya car and mash the pedal to the floor then this would be possible. I normally let my car idle 10-15sec whilst I belt up and select music, I then use at most 15-1800 revs til the guage is upto its normal spot.

[eli]

what they mean by most of engine wear is on start up is because the oil is cold and its at its thickest so its going to move slower throught the engine take longer time for oil to get up into the head so the parts furthest from the sump are being oil starved a little you could say, just like when you start up your car and try to hit v-tech when its cold it wont work coz the oils to thick to move through the oil galleries in the head

[Fredoops]

yeah the claim that 90% of engine wear occurs at start up is the buiggest load of marketing crap. If you jump in ya car and mash the pedal to the floor then this would be possible. I normally let my car idle 10-15sec whilst I belt up and select music, I then use at most 15-1800 revs til the guage is upto its normal spot.

There is truth to it, but that's only really the case if you are in a cold climate and use thick oil like 15-20w-XX or more.

Else there is really no problem.

... And what the guy above said.

[RtN]

It does wear a lot at the start because there is little to no oil lubricating your engine internals, it has to be picked up from the sump? Metal to Metal no goot. Thats what I logically think. But yes you do let your car sit and idle for about 15-30seconds before u drive and even then you only go to about 2,500 RPM MAX until you warm up.

What pisses me off hard is people who just dont care, I see them jump into the car and just rip the car.. wtf? No matter how shitbox ur car is, still should take care of it because it will reduce problems in the future.

[EKVTIR-T]

It does wear a lot at the start because there is little to no oil lubricating your engine internals, it has to be picked up from the sump? Metal to Metal no goot. Thats what I logically think. But yes you do let your car sit and idle for about 15-30seconds before u drive and even then you only go to about 2,500 RPM MAX until you warm up.

What pisses me off hard is people who just dont care, I see them jump into the car and just rip the car.. wtf? No matter how shitbox ur car is, still should take care of it because it will reduce problems in the future.
My wanker neighbour does this in his late model Magna.
Starts up car from cold,rips out driveway and redlines it down the steet,then he's forever got the bonnet up working on it and its fked auto,swearing his head off...

Those type of bananas dont deserve a car

[ralph_ef9]

What pisses me off hard is people who just dont care, I see them jump into the car and just rip the car.. wtf? No matter how shitbox ur car is, still should take care of it because it will reduce problems in the future.

thats it! like!