The Spaniards EP3 Build

[JDM EP3]

Hey guys time to start putting up parts of my build thread for my new EP3.
Got the car here in my possession a little after a week ago now, bought it back in Jan this year and since then I have been waiting for import approvals, compliance etc.

But thats all practicably over now, will be getting the car registered on Tuesday.

First few mods to begin with will be a set of PLM headers that I have sitting at work atm (pics will come soon of those)


Here are some pics as she sits now.

http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120421_142917.jpg
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120421_142843.jpg
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120421_142859.jpg

I bought a set a fake mugen pedals for $30 so pretty cheap for some foot grip.

http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/20120417_190208.jpg

More pics and updates to come soon.

[ericl33]

fake = lose.

[JDM EP3]

fake = lose.
Yeah, Im not really bothered about those to tell u the truth, their pedals the provide grip like I care to pay $250 for some pedals that will do the same thing as those.

[ericl33]

Yeah, Im not really bothered about those to tell u the truth, their pedals the provide grip like I care to pay $250 for some pedals that will do the same thing as those.
I find stock pedals awesome.

[JDM EP3]

Yeah I find the stocks ones good too and have had no issues with them, although when it rains Im sure the rubber will slip.

[ericl33]

http://ocobiega.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Poker_FaceCzyste.png

[ericl33]

other than the fake pedals, looks awesome.



who or where did you buy it from?

[Symphorced]

Looks good man!

Foot pedals dont slip unless they're completely worn down. Fake pedals are just for bling.

[EG52NV]

Rubber pedals or genuine metal pedals with rubber grips are garbage when soles of shoes are wet! Mugen pedals whether genuine or reps are the best pedals you can get the pedal that grips back wet or dry!!, those who've used them will know.

[ericl33]

Rubber pedals or genuine metal pedals with rubber grips are garbage when soles of shoes are wet! Mugen pedals whether genuine or reps are the best pedals you can get the pedal that grips back wet or dry!!, those who've used them will know.
N

double O bee

[Azz86]

Cleeaaannnn. is it stock?

Keen to see what mods your going to put into it. Are PLM headers the same as Kidd racing headers or am I confused with something else?

[JDM EP3]

Looks good man!

Foot pedals dont slip unless they're completely worn down. Fake pedals are just for bling.

Thanks man its very very clean, really happy with what I got. Pedals for me arent for the bling factor at all, those are really quite abrasive that they grip to your shoe.


Rubber pedals or genuine metal pedals with rubber grips are garbage when soles of shoes are wet! Mugen pedals whether genuine or reps are the best pedals you can get the pedal that grips back wet or dry!!, those who've used them will know. :thumbsup: the exact reason I got them.



Cleeaaannnn. is it stock?

Keen to see what mods your going to put into it. Are PLM headers the same as Kidd racing headers or am I confused with something else?

Yeah stock as a rock.... for now. :D
I think the kid racing headers are a different brand all together, I think alot of confusion comes from kidd racing and club rsx headers and all those in between brands etc.
I'll have pics for those some time on Tuesday. Dont know when I will install those. Would I be needing a flex pipe or something to bolt those up to the stock exhaust?

[TonyxTony]

also bought those fake pedals off ebay and installed them on the weekend. Feels great! because the accelerate is bigger and longer, making it much easier to press.

My clutch one is abit loose. Same as yours?

[JDM EP3]

also bought those fake pedals off ebay and installed them on the weekend. Feels great! because the accelerate is bigger and longer, making it much easier to press.

My clutch one is abit loose. Same as yours?
I haven't had a chance to install mine yet will do them hopefully this weekend along with the header

[JDM EP3]

Update: So I finally got around to bring these home from work tonight, was hoping the weather was going to be good tomorrow to install these.
PLM headers.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120424_203125.jpg
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120424_203154.jpg
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120424_203235.jpg
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120424_203634.jpg
Seen a dyno graph of these and they make more power than the J's Racing headers.
My only issue is that they dont seem to slide into each pipe without having to push and pull the ends to line up properly.
Spoon goodness :thumbsup:
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120424_203300.jpg

[curtis265]

dat fired up pedal debate..

[RPS.13]

Update: So I finally got around to bring these home from work tonight, was hoping the weather was going to be good tomorrow to install these.
PLM headers.
Seen a dyno graph of these and they make more power than the J's Racing headers.
My only issue is that they dont seem to slide into each pipe without having to push and pull the ends to line up properly.

Nice! They look pretty much identical to the kiddracing ones.

You can use a flat head screw driver to help separate the primary sections, then slot in the secondary sections. Again you can do the same thing to get the end section on. Its a bit of trial and error to get them to sit right. Use a mallet to help tap each section into place. I think i put mine together and pulled them apart approximately 3 times before i was completely happy with the way they sat. You can be quite firm with the mallet when tapping them together, use a block of wood on the end if your worried about bending them. This should help minimise any leaking.

[Azz86]

How'd you go dude? Get those headers in or struggling?

[JDM EP3]

Nice! They look pretty much identical to the kiddracing ones.

You can use a flat head screw driver to help separate the primary sections, then slot in the secondary sections. Again you can do the same thing to get the end section on. Its a bit of trial and error to get them to sit right. Use a mallet to help tap each section into place. I think i put mine together and pulled them apart approximately 3 times before i was completely happy with the way they sat. You can be quite firm with the mallet when tapping them together, use a block of wood on the end if your worried about bending them. This should help minimise any leaking.

Thanks man will keep that in mind for when I do them.


How'd you go dude? Get those headers in or struggling?

Haven't actually had a chance to install them yet spent all day washing and clay baring the car today looks minty fresh and so smooth. Will try to have them in next week or the week after if I get a chance.

[Azz86]

Haven't actually had a chance to install them yet spent all day washing and clay baring the car today looks minty fresh and so smooth. Will try to have them in next week or the week after if I get a chance.

Cool man. Keep us posted. I'll be in the market for some headers soon :D

[Mikeyy168]

Hope that steering rack quits chuckin a hissy fit!


Cool man. Keep us posted. I'll be in the market for some headers soon :D

Which headers you goin for mate?

[Azz86]

Which headers you goin for mate?

Not sure yet. The PLMs look the part. Looking for a bit of bang for buck. Not going to spring for Toda headers or similar.

Are you running headers?

[Mikeyy168]

Im lookin at either t1r headers or Kidd racing ones... Not sure yet!

How much did those PLM ones cost you spaniard?

[JDM EP3]

Im lookin at either t1r headers or Kidd racing ones... Not sure yet!

How much did those PLM ones cost you spaniard?

They cost $650 from BYP from what RPS13 said they are identical to the kidd racing ones.

[Azz86]

Im lookin at either t1r headers or Kidd racing ones... Not sure yet!

How much did those PLM ones cost you spaniard?

Check it out here - http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?161360-BYP-Racing-and-Developments-PLM-Headers-K-B-H-and-X-bar!

[JDM EP3]

Just a small update, got the car back today after correcting the steering issue feels much better and smpoother after having everything greased up. Steering is much better and now is self centering. I still think that with the EPS the steering rack the slider wears out over time as I have read these are plastic and this is where the self centering issue comes from.

[JDM EP3]

Tiny little update today.
Changed out the spark plugs on the car, old ones were white. I have been noticing an issue of high fuel consumption so hoping that will help with that.

Also was set to do the headers today but my brothers jack that I was using was not able to lift the car high enough to fit the jack stands under it so we abandoned that thought until I can source a proper jack.
While looking under the car at the headers I did notice that the cat has been welded onto the pipe on both ends??? Is this actually normal? I was under the assumption that they could just be unbolted and I could fit it to the headers without welding.
Looks like I will be needing to source a high flow cat then. Anyone have any suggestions as to what I should look at?
Did any of you guys that changed your own headers use any type of exhaust sealant when doing your install?

Was going to change the oil as well but we found that our oil removal tool was too big to fit around the oil filter and we decided to air on the side of caution instead of using the screw driver method to get it off, sigh.

Here's some more pics of the headers assembled.

http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120504_171745.jpg
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120504_171735-1.jpg
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120504_171720.jpg

[geeang]

Ummm.... is it just me or have those headers been assembled upside down? LOL

[JDM EP3]

Hmm I think you could possibly be right about that we were mainly test fitting the pipes to see how hard they were to get in I wouldn't have realised if you hadn't mentioned that lol....

[RPS.13]

The oem cat comes off in one big section, which is joined to the secondary pipes of the headers. I think that's what your referring to when you say welded to the pipes.

They should look something like this googled image when they`re out: (note the o2 sensors are a bit easier to access once u take off the heat shield on the cat).
http://www.speedstar-racing.com/store/catalog/images/dc5_ex_manifold.jpg

I think i used some permatex gasket sealant on the very end 2 hole gasket connecting to the cat back section.

Not too sure if the plm headers come with a test pipe, if they do. Try find a cat which is shorter than that, as you can get it welded up where the tset pipe sits. Alternatively you could just run it with the test pipe and no cat (not recommended, as its illegal). Yes if the test pipe is supplied then it should be a straight bolt on job, no welding required. But again doing that, you'll have no cat.

[JDM EP3]

Yeah thats what I mean about the cat. I didnt realise these are welded on to begin with. Mine doesnt actually have the heat shield on it.
The PLM's do come with a test pipe but as you mentioned I would not want to take the risk of running without the cat. When you say get a cat smaller than where the test pipe sits what exactly are you referring to? I have two sections of test pipe, one is straight through from the end of the headers which is longer for running without a cat and the other is the one fitted on the pics above where I would assume I could just buy a hi flow cat and bolt it straight up.

[JDM EP3]

On another note I notice that all the ep3's Ive seen have white recaro lettering for the stitching, mine is gold. Anyone else seen this before?
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120505_124806.jpg

[[daan]]

hmm.. never noticed that...mine are black

[RPS.13]

The only pic i took of my install:
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt212/KAIZENRPS_13/DSC01242.jpg?t=1317641415

The cat is on the left, the test pipe (the test pipe is the end pipe, with the 3 hole flange on one end and a sliding 2 hole flange, with a flared end for the doughnut gasket) is the straight pipe on the right. We cut up the straight bit of pipe i.e. the test pipe, then replace that section with the cat. From memory my cat was 12 inches. Which was cut down slightly. We then welded the flanges and o2 bung at the front left of the pic to the cat. You'll need a small hole saw bit to drill out a hole for the bung. Make sure you check the clearances for the secondary o2 sensor, making sure it doesn't touch the body/exhaust tunnel.

Pretty sure you'll be hard pressed to find an aftermarket cat that bolts up to that section.

Hope that makes sense. All the best with the install :thumbsup:

[JDM EP3]

OK Cool I get what you mean. What size diameter cat is that? Looks 3 inch to me

[RPS.13]

It was listed as a 2.5 inch.

[JDM EP3]

Not a real update but took some pics of the car after I gave it a wash with a high pressure hose at the car wash. Unfortunately I noticed that I cant spray the edges of any plastic bits like the bumpers as the paint just peels right off. Dont want to scrub her with those filthy brushes and scratch it all up. :(

http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120508_141541.jpg

I will be having a new look very soon ;)

[Symphorced]

On another note I notice that all the ep3's Ive seen have white recaro lettering for the stitching, mine is gold. Anyone else seen this before?

Writing on my seats are black too. Looks like the text is just dirty/faded? Is it like this on both seats?

[JDM EP3]

Yeah both seats are exactly the same

[JDM EP3]

Got these wheels over the weekend, really liking the look. Needs more low though.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120513_133703.jpg
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120513_133522.jpg

Didnt get more shots cause it was starting to rain, sh!t melbourne weather.

[geeang]

I like the look too, needs more pics to show off the fitment though.

Can I ask what specs they are?

[[daan]]

beautiful wheels!

[JDM EP3]

Thanks guys, geeang the specs are 17x9 +35 and 17x8 +35.
I have set this up in reverse staggered.
Yeah I will get some more pics from the back and sides just that the weather sucks here right now so I just snapped some quick shots on coming home and ran inside before I got soaked.

[Symphorced]

Nice choice on wheels haha! And it's not reverse staggered because it's FWD. It's correctly staggered! :p

[geeang]

Sweet! I just got some 17x9 +35 (haven't mounted them yet) as well so it'd be great to see some more fitment shots when you get a chance :D

[RPS.13]

Nice wheels.

I ordered your scuttle panel block off kit last week, i`ll let you know when it arrives.

[JDM EP3]

Nice wheels.

I ordered your scuttle panel block off kit last week, i`ll let you know when it arrives.

Cool no worries :thumbsup:

[JDM EP3]

Nice choice on wheels haha! And it's not reverse staggered because it's FWD. It's correctly staggered! :p

Hehe yeah nice, they are different to yours though right?

Also quick question for guys that have upgraded their suspension setups.

Im looking at getting some buddy club race coilovers but also wanted to enquire what other parts people upgraded and why? Ie: tie rods, bushings etc.

[JDM EP3]

Pics for those guys asking about fitment have been taken now.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120517_183433.jpg
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120517_183426.jpg

[Symphorced]

Hehe yeah nice, they are different to yours though right?

Also quick question for guys that have upgraded their suspension setups.

Im looking at getting some buddy club race coilovers but also wanted to enquire what other parts people upgraded and why? Ie: tie rods, bushings etc.

Same wheels, different specs and colour. Looking good! Just needs more low now.

You'll need rear camber arms if you lower the car. Everything else is optional. :p

[JDM EP3]

Same wheels, different specs and colour. Looking good! Just needs more low now.

You'll need rear camber arms if you lower the car. Everything else is optional. :p

Thanks man, your ones look alot more "wire-y" in your avatar.
Low will be coming very soon now along with the camber arms for sure, have some other goodies on the way as well.

[dyvios]

is that a dent above the rear wheel?

[aRze]

looks awesome mate!

are you still on stock suspension?
and what tyre size you running up front?

any inner clearance issues?



Hehe yeah nice, they are different to yours though right?

Also quick question for guys that have upgraded their suspension setups.

Im looking at getting some buddy club race coilovers but also wanted to enquire what other parts people upgraded and why? Ie: tie rods, bushings etc.

basic things you need for low and desired geometry is coilovers and rear camber arms because most coils have pillow ball upper mount which allows you to adjust front camber without the use of camber bolts.

For the EP3/DC5 suspension design, this causes toe adjustment problems as the pillow ball mounts angle the whole strut assembly which leaves insufficient adjustment for tie rod, so basically you're looking at undesirable toe in whilst getting camber using the pillow ball mounts. (Someone correct me if this is incorrect, this is what i was told by the guys at heasmans). This can be fixed with inverted tie rods or [shorter?] tie rods?
There are a number of decent brands for camber adjustment out there.. SPC, hardrace, buddyclub etc.

Also because of the design of the front struts, lowering too much will badly affect handling due to the angle of the front lower control arms. If you want to keep low while maintaining optimal handling roll centre adjusters are worth looking into. Hardrace and J's racing make these.

Bushings will tighten everything back up as they get subject to wear and tear.

[JDM EP3]

is that a dent above the rear wheel?
Yes



looks awesome mate!

are you still on stock suspension?
and what tyre size you running up front?

any inner clearance issues?




basic things you need for low and desired geometry is coilovers and rear camber arms because most coils have pillow ball upper mount which allows you to adjust front camber without the use of camber bolts.

For the EP3/DC5 suspension design, this causes toe adjustment problems as the pillow ball mounts angle the whole strut assembly which leaves insufficient adjustment for tie rod, so basically you're looking at undesirable toe in whilst getting camber using the pillow ball mounts. (Someone correct me if this is incorrect, this is what i was told by the guys at heasmans). This can be fixed with inverted tie rods or [shorter?] tie rods?
There are a number of decent brands for camber adjustment out there.. SPC, hardrace, buddyclub etc.

Also because of the design of the front struts, lowering too much will badly affect handling due to the angle of the front lower control arms. If you want to keep low while maintaining optimal handling roll centre adjusters are worth looking into. Hardrace and J's racing make these.

Bushings will tighten everything back up as they get subject to wear and tear.

Thanks man, yeah I am still on stock suspension atm, fronts are running a 235 40 17.
I havent got any clearance issues at all right now but assume I will have those when I lower it.

Will def get some rear camber arms and will also be looking at getting some j's tie rods and adding to that a tegiwa steering bracket at the same I will possibly look at replacing all bushings all round with possibly some energy suspension ones but still undecided on what brad of bushings I will look at. I also recently purchased some j's roll centre adjusters too.

[aRze]

baller!!

looking forward to reading more :D

[JDM EP3]

These babies came in today :D
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120531_2256101.jpg
Will hopefully be getting these put in the next few weeks when some other parts arrive to complete the suspension setup.

[aRze]

bought new?

[JDM EP3]

Yeah brand new

[CivicTypeR]

Yeah brand new

Man you must be ballin' it.

[JDM EP3]

Man you must be ballin' it.
Lol I wish man

[kenny07]

Just a small update, got the car back today after correcting the steering issue feels much better and smpoother after having everything greased up. Steering is much better and now is self centering. I still think that with the EPS the steering rack the slider wears out over time as I have read these are plastic and this is where the self centering issue comes from.

hey what did you do with the correcting the steering issue?

because i had that steering issue where you hear it creaks every time i take off with the car and while changing gears and/or accelerating. you hear the creaking.

i think ive gotten it fixed, because i dont hear the creaking sound no more while changing/accelerating..

but i do hear something sometimes when i take off..

[JDM EP3]

hey what did you do with the correcting the steering issue?

because i had that steering issue where you hear it creaks every time i take off with the car and while changing gears and/or accelerating. you hear the creaking.

i think ive gotten it fixed, because i dont hear the creaking sound no more while changing/accelerating..

but i do hear something sometimes when i take off..

If you haven't done so pull off the boot that covers the steering rack and grease it up real good with lithium grease make sure you turn the steering wheel side to side to get the grease penetrating the whole area. This should fix the creaking from the rack. I had the same creak on take off too and this solved it. I don't know how long these racks last for but apparently the rack slider is a plastic piece that wears down over time.

[kenny07]

If you haven't done so pull off the boot that covers the steering rack and grease it up real good with lithium grease make sure you turn the steering wheel side to side to get the grease penetrating the whole area. This should fix the creaking from the rack. I had the same creak on take off too and this solved it. I don't know how long these racks last for but apparently the rack slider is a plastic piece that wears down over time.

are you a DIY person? because im not and i have no idea! :(

[kenny07]

can u help?

[JDM EP3]

are you a DIY person? because im not and i have no idea! :(

I'm a self taught diy if I don't know something I'll look it up or ask. If I can't do it I will pay someone to do it. If its to hard to do for you, your best best is take it to someone who does. Otherwise here it the DIY you can look at.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?131492-greasing-ep3-steering-rack

[kenny07]

LOL i was gonna ask.. mind if i pay you to help me out... but then i saw your location was in melbourne!
fail! :/

[JDM EP3]

Just organised a set of RE55S tyres for the EP3 will be going to get them fitted tonight, got a great price on them.

[[daan]]

Excellent track tyres. going on your stockies?

[JDM EP3]

;3435904']Excellent track tyres. going on your stockies?

Nah the stockies have some brand new Kumos on them so I'll use those for daily, plus I will run 235 45 17 on the front and those will be too wide for the stockies. These will go on the BBS rims.

[[daan]]

nice one - I daily on Kumhos (KU31) as well, such good bang for buck (take pics of the RE's with the BBS on the car, should be quite aggressive)

[butterfingers]

basic things you need for low and desired geometry is coilovers and rear camber arms because most coils have pillow ball upper mount which allows you to adjust front camber without the use of camber bolts.

For the EP3/DC5 suspension design, this causes toe adjustment problems as the pillow ball mounts angle the whole strut assembly which leaves insufficient adjustment for tie rod, so basically you're looking at undesirable toe in whilst getting camber using the pillow ball mounts. (Someone correct me if this is incorrect, this is what i was told by the guys at heasmans). This can be fixed with inverted tie rods or [shorter?] tie rods?
There are a number of decent brands for camber adjustment out there.. SPC, hardrace, buddyclub etc.

Also because of the design of the front struts, lowering too much will badly affect handling due to the angle of the front lower control arms. If you want to keep low while maintaining optimal handling roll centre adjusters are worth looking into. Hardrace and J's racing make these.

Bushings will tighten everything back up as they get subject to wear and tear.

what noticeable effect is there with toe adjustment in daily driving?

[senna]

Toe in, dull steering response - Toe out, twitchy steering, increased torque steer and increased tramlining on rutted roads.

On a FWD the toe setting should generally be kept within +/- 0.5 mm, toe in being the safest bet for street set-up

[butterfingers]

i might have slight toe out
must grab wheel tightly with two hands in 2nd gear/in the wet and over rough roads.
fix the roads gillard

[senna]

That or your lower control arm bushes are stuffed allowing the wheels to move forward and back/in and out

Sorry for the thread hi-jack Spaniard!

[JDM EP3]

That or your lower control arm bushes are stuffed allowing the wheels to move forward and back/in and out

Sorry for the thread hi-jack Spaniard!

Lol no problems man

[butterfingers]

That or your lower control arm bushes are stuffed allowing the wheels to move forward and back/in and out

Sorry for the thread hi-jack Spaniard!

could be
how can i isolate which problem it is?

[senna]

Get your wheel alignment checked, and while its on a hoist have them inspect your LCA bushes

If you haven't had a wheel alignment done in the last 6 months it would be a good idea anyway

[butterfingers]

was just planning to do that
cheer mate

[JDM EP3]

Got the new RE55 S tyres fitted tonight didnt get to push it as it was more of a straight commute across town. But could easily feel the grip in the wet compared to the old RE 001's
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120605_1940511.jpg
Its raining here in Melb so the car looks filthy...

[Symphorced]

Running semis on the street... in the wet?!

[senna]

They aren't that bad - i drove around on Mickey Thompson E/T Streets for 3 months in a big hp rwd, they still have quite a lot of grip. When they go - they go though...

Worst thing with semis is the pick up - throws shit all over your car...

[JDM EP3]

Running semis on the street... in the wet?!
Not really I went to have them fitted and drove back on them, they actually grip in the wet. Didnt test it out though.



They aren't that bad - i drove around on Mickey Thompson E/T Streets for 3 months in a big hp rwd, they still have quite a lot of grip. When they go - they go though...

Worst thing with semis is the pick up - throws shit all over your car...

Hmm didnt know that, one thing I noticed is the whine and how it just gets louder the faster you go.

[senna]

Yeah, noise is louder because of the giant contact patch on the road.

They are for race use, not comfy street touring remember!

[JDM EP3]

Yeah, noise is louder because of the giant contact patch on the road.

They are for race use, not comfy street touring remember!

Yeah, I discovered that going over some bumps and stuff and feeling the massive jolts compared to any street tyre.

[butterfingers]

i thought mine was bad.
keen to see how semis feels.
might snap a vertebrae

[JDM EP3]

i thought mine was bad.
keen to see how semis feels.
might snap a vertebrae

Yeah I went over a bump that should have been nothing with normal tyres and I felt I slammed into some massive pothole or something really freaked me out

[senna]

If the tyres are the only thing you've changed i'd say the RE55s has a really stiff sidewall which is common to race spec tyres - stops them folding over while under load

[JDM EP3]

If the tyres are the only thing you've changed i'd say the RE55s has a really stiff sidewall which is common to race spec tyres - stops them folding over while under load

Makes sense, as I havent done anything apart from fitting the tyres to the wheels

[mocchi]

i googled spaniards and it says that it means spanish people.
are you spanish? need more pics!

[JDM EP3]

i googled spaniards and it says that it means spanish people.
are you spanish? need more pics!

Yeah I have a spanish background. This is my first build thread so its not so good but I will try to post up more pictures once more work starts getting done to the car and more parts roll in

[egSi]

cool work man.

re: toe adjustment. You may be able to get away with retaining OEM tie rod ends if you dont go super low.

Super low EPs are death! lol lots of work and broken shit. Lower it moderately and ull be sweet :)

[butterfingers]

cool work man.

re: toe adjustment. You may be able to get away with retaining OEM tie rod ends if you dont go super low.

Super low EPs are death! lol lots of work and broken shit. Lower it moderately and ull be sweet :)

whats considered super low?
i can jsut shove the tip of my finger in the front gap and between 1-2 finger gap at the back

[JDM EP3]

cool work man.

re: toe adjustment. You may be able to get away with retaining OEM tie rod ends if you dont go super low.

Super low EPs are death! lol lots of work and broken shit. Lower it moderately and ull be sweet :)

Thanks man, I dont think I will go super low possibly occasionally for street and looks but I will be getting some goods to correct toe and keep the tie rods closer to stock angles.

[aRze]

Running semis on the street... in the wet?!

Because race car.

[JDM EP3]

Because race car.

Ahhhhaaa!!! Gold!

[egSi]

dude, not sure if u know but the N+ was designed specifically to keep the arms at closer to stock angles.

no need to really go and get anything extra until at least u have fitted them and am happy with the height.

I have N+ moderately lowered and the arms are almost level :)

other coilovers dont account for this do affect the arm angle.

N+ = the shit

[JDM EP3]

dude, not sure if u know but the N+ was designed specifically to keep the arms at closer to stock angles.

no need to really go and get anything extra until at least u have fitted them and am happy with the height.

I have N+ moderately lowered and the arms are almost level :)

other coilovers dont account for this do affect the arm angle.

N+ = the shit

When you say N+ do you mean the Race spec coils?

[egSi]

no i mean N+ spec but Race Spec Damber ALSO has the lower mount for the tie rod ends :)

[JDM EP3]

no i mean N+ spec but Race Spec Damber ALSO has the lower mount for the tie rod ends :)

Ah this is something I did not know, although as I am having all this done I feel better doing it right first time. I actually have already ordered a custom steering bracket for this to avoid any of these issues regardless.

[egSi]

Ah this is something I did not know, although as I am having all this done I feel better doing it right first time. I actually have already ordered a custom steering bracket for this to avoid any of these issues regardless.

lol sell it man, unless ur running nut scraper spec low, you wont need it. :)

[JDM EP3]

lol sell it man, unless ur running nut scraper spec low, you wont need it. :)

lol I like low but not that low. I was thinking that if I dont need it I will of course sell it. I'll see how the angles are and go from there.
I actually am frothing to get the coils in but I am still waiting on the tie rods to arrive along with bushings and camber arms before I can go ahead, hopefully done within the next week or two.

[egSi]

sick man :)

[JDM EP3]

Got some more parts in today and yesterday.

Whiteline rear swaybar
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120613_194912.jpg

Custom steering bracket.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120613_194953.jpg
Wether that will be used or not is yet to be determined

J's racing spl tie rods.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120613_195345.jpg

Also got those replica Mugen pedals fitted on Monday. The grip on the pedal face is awesome, quite happy with them @$30. Issue was that without putting some sort of padding in behind the pedal it can jiggle a little. Fixed that with a bit of foam behind it and its is quite snug and doesnt move at all.

http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120612_191608.jpg

[spookz]

I have N+ moderately lowered and the arms are almost level :)


Hmm.. correct me if I'm wrong, but for minimal/zero bump steer, you want the tie rod perpendicular to the strut angle.

I also run the BC N+ coil overs and use to run them with inverted tie rod ends because I wanted them as "flat" as possible. With the inverted ends they were flat, really flat. However bump steer was terrible. You can see the toe change as you jack up the car - the wheels start toeing out.

Keeping with the same height, I now run them with OEM tie rod ends. As the N+ coil overs do not have adjustable camber tops, the strut angle remains static. The tie rod is pretty much perpendicular to the strut angle. There is no noticeable bump steer and the toe remains pretty static when jacking up the car.

[Mikeyy168]

Hey the whiteline sway bar is thicker then the oem one isnt it?

[aRze]

Hey the whiteline sway bar is thicker then the oem one isnt it?

Yep, 24mm :)

Worthwhile upgrade if you prefer less understeer/more oversteer.

[butterfingers]

almost did a hectic spin out the other day
thought it was because racecar
turned out there was a screwdirver tip in my rear wheel

[JDM EP3]

Some new parts arrived yesterday and today! :D

GruppeM Intake
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120620_205736.jpg

Some Tegiwa parts
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120620_205824.jpg

Energy suspension bushing kit, thanks to RPS13 for info on where to purchase!
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120620_205722.jpg

From left to right, Front sway bar bushing, Rear swaybar bushing (only 15mm???) and the difference between that and the whiteline swaybar bushing.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120620_210412.jpg
The Energy stuff is really firm compared to the whiteline bushing, I just wish the energy bushings included one big enough for the whiteline swaybaras the energy rear is way too small to fit.

Also got my hardrace rear camber arms the other day. Just waiting on Buddyclub to swap over my front strut bottoms as they came with the paint all flaking off and surface rust WTF!!!. Pretty dissapointed that they let it leave like that.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120613_192900.jpg

[aRze]

true baller!
awesome gear man.
you'll like the brake stopper, put mine in recently, brake pedal feels much firmer :D

[JDM EP3]

true baller!
awesome gear man.
you'll like the brake stopper, put mine in recently, brake pedal feels much firmer :D

Thanks man :D Yeah I'm looking forward to get the GruppeM and the brake stopper in this weekend and then the following parts in over the next week or two

[Mikeyy168]

the first time you turn on your car after the gruppe m is installed is jizz. :) your first drive will be even more jizz. :) make sure u hit at least 4000rpm in first. hehe.

[JDM EP3]

the first time you turn on your car after the gruppe m is installed is jizz. :) your first drive will be even more jizz. :) make sure u hit at least 4000rpm in first. hehe.

I sure will man, I think I will slide a sock on before I take it for a drive :p

[aRze]

Im guessing you're installing the bushings once you get the Buddy Clubs back.
I'm not sure what how the front LCA bushings were designed, but I would recommend using PCI spherical bushings for your front LCA.
They are a bit offset from stock so you actually gain a bit more castor (which our cars lack) with them.
A few guys over on clubitr I know run them.
More castor = better self-centering and more camber under cornering conditions :)

Though they will set you back around $265 without delivery.

Just in case you hadn't heard of it =D

[egSi]

nice shit, get it on man :)

[JDM EP3]

Cheers man. Anyone know of where I can find english installation instructions, or more precisely assembly instructions?

[RPS.13]

Yeah nice assortment of gear :thumbsup:

I think there might be some in here: http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?26070-Guide-to-the-Gruppe-M-please-read-before-posting!

I can't view any pics at work, so can't confirm if there is, sorry.

[JDM EP3]

Yeah nice assortment of gear :thumbsup:

I think there might be some in here: http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?26070-Guide-to-the-Gruppe-M-please-read-before-posting!

I can't view any pics at work, so can't confirm if there is, sorry.

Yeah I did check that out but the GruppeM instructions a pretty cryptic. It was more to double check stuff or see if there is a guide to follow for any type of things to look out for, like where to put extra double sided tape etc.

[RPS.13]

Ahh I see. I don't think there is any DIY's in that sense. Not that I've come across.

It's pretty simply anyway. Just dummy fit the whole kit. Line it all up to where it sits the best. Then put double sided tape on all the areas you feel it touches, or might touch. Also check the clearence between the edge of the scoop and the edge of the bonnet, and also the area to the right and left of the intake, near where the Gruppe M tab is stuck on. The corner on the right touched the underside of my bonnet and I had to massage the bonnet a little with a mallet. Check the clearence to the throttle cable and strut brace (if you decide to run one). Mine came with a bit of padded foam stuck on the underside, to minimise rubbing of the cable.

The scuttle panel 'cowl' supplied, i just stuck double sided tape all round. On any edges that touched the window and body of the car.

[JDM EP3]

Ahh I see. I don't think there is any DIY's in that sense. Not that I've come across.

It's pretty simply anyway. Just dummy fit the whole kit. Line it all up to where it sits the best. Then put double sided tape on all the areas you feel it touches, or might touch. Also check the clearence between the edge of the scoop and the edge of the bonnet, and also the area to the right and left of the intake, near where the Gruppe M tab is stuck on. The corner on the right touched the underside of my bonnet and I had to massage the bonnet a little with a mallet. Check the clearence to the throttle cable and strut brace (if you decide to run one). Mine came with a bit of padded foam stuck on the underside, to minimise rubbing of the cable.

The scuttle panel 'cowl' supplied, i just stuck double sided tape all round. On any edges that touched the window and body of the car.

Yeah it was all pretty simple and straight forward to do but it never hurts to check it out first. What did people do with the weather strip? I fed mine behind the intake and left the last 20cm or so just flopped off in the bay. I guess Ill tape it down, or is that what I am supposed to do? Run some double sided tape behind it and stick it to the scuttle? :)

I ended up doing it today in about an hour as I was taking my time in trying to adjust it all. Is it supposed to hang in the air basically?
I am disappointed though in the scuttle quality, would have felt much better if it had a perfect fit. I have to press down on the cowling to open the hood with no issues. I still need to have a drive in it though, was too beat after doing it that I went inside and passed out on the couch.

[bluey45]

Hey mate. Been reading up on your thread. How's the gruppe m? I'm thinking of getting the same intake. Does the car feel more responsive?

[kenny07]

I have to press down on the cowling to open the hood with no issues.


yeah i have to do that too when i open up my hood! and i have to tell the mechanics to do the same thing too when i get my car service. kinda annoying!!
but the Gruppe M is worth it. well imo

[kenny07]

Hey mate. Been reading up on your thread. How's the gruppe m? I'm thinking of getting the same intake. Does the car feel more responsive?

i find that the car is a bit more responsive.... i find it better in response if your driving in a like 4/5th gear between 3-4k rpm and you just decide to give it a little...

sounds awesome too!! :D

[butterfingers]

You won't feel too much difference until you tune it

[kenny07]

You won't feel too much difference until you tune it

ill start doing that one day... when i have money! :(

so right now... i can only dream about tuning my car :/

[bluey45]

What's a good place for a tune?
You would need to purchase a hondata kpro first right?

[Perry]

What's a good place for a tune?
You would need to purchase a hondata kpro first right?

any tuneable ecu will be ok, I can recommend someone but he does road tunes rather than on the dyno.

[butterfingers]

Doesn't BYP do dyno tunes
Power tune is another one

[kenny07]

so whats the difference between dyno/power/ and road tune?

??

[JDM EP3]

Hey mate. Been reading up on your thread. How's the gruppe m? I'm thinking of getting the same intake. Does the car feel more responsive?

I did notice a tiny little increase in response but its not really much at all and as someone said without a tune it wont make much difference. Although when vtec kicks in its way more pronounced and you do feel a difference there as well.

[bluey45]

any tuneable ecu will be ok, I can recommend someone but he does road tunes rather than on the dyno.

Yeah prob road tune would what I be looking at as more of a street/weekend car. Probably looking at about $3k all up for tune and ecu? Or am I over estimating?

[JDM EP3]

Yeah prob road tune would what I be looking at as more of a street/weekend car. Probably looking at about $3k all up for tune and ecu? Or am I over estimating?

You would look at about $1400 for a kpro and $800-$1000 for a dyno tune. I would say dyno tuning is the way to go.

[bluey45]

You would look at about $1400 for a kpro and $800-$1000 for a dyno tune. I would say dyno tuning is the way to go.

Cheers mate. Cost quite a lot of $$

[Mikeyy168]

jdm yard is offering kpro with tune now. ask yonas for quote if you're keen

[JDM EP3]

Just took some pics of some of the installed goods today.
GruppeM Intake with Tegiwa silicone hose.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120627_154728.jpg
Tegiwa BMC stopper.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120627_154739.jpg

[butterfingers]

Just took some pics of some of the installed goods today.
GruppeM Intake with Tegiwa silicone hose.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120627_154728.jpg
Tegiwa BMC stopper.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120627_154739.jpg

Hectic, judging from your pics the gruppem should clear my strut brace

[JDM EP3]

What strut brace will you be running?

[butterfingers]

Js racing. It's on already, since the day I bought the ep3. Just heard here and there that gruppeM don't clear certain struts bars so I was leaning toward a Mugen intake. But your photos give me hope lol.

[JDM EP3]

J's racing bar clears the gruppeM with ease

[bluey45]

Just took some pics of some of the installed goods today.
GruppeM Intake with Tegiwa silicone hose.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120627_154728.jpg
Tegiwa BMC stopper.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120627_154739.jpg

That gruppe m looks awesome. I can't wait to get mine. :D

[kenny07]

Js racing. It's on already, since the day I bought the ep3. Just heard here and there that gruppeM don't clear certain struts bars so I was leaning toward a Mugen intake. But your photos give me hope lol.

yeah the J's racing strut brace clears the gruppe M with ease!

[kenny07]

and also, im still using the OEM induction hose with the gruppe M.

is it best to change to a silicon one?
coz friend is telling me that the OEM one will eventually crack?

[iQQ]

and also, im still using the OEM induction hose with the gruppe M.

is it best to change to a silicon one?
coz friend is telling me that the OEM one will eventually crack?

your friend is correct sir

[egSi]

Looks nice man, what with the strip of rubber on the right, behind the strut tower. That needs to go somewhere?


your friend is correct sir

lol^ are you ****ing serious?

[iQQ]

Looks nice man, what with the strip of rubber on the right, behind the strut tower. That needs to go somewhere?



lol^ are you ****ing serious?

yes..? itll eventually split. what seems to be the problem? and the replacement scuttle panel gruppe M provides you doesnt have anywhere to attach the weather rubber strip to. Hence the picture.

[JDM EP3]

Looks nice man, what with the strip of rubber on the right, behind the strut tower. That needs to go somewhere?

Yeah thats the weather strip under the bonnet. With the oem panel it has a lip to fit it to the plastic. The gruppeM replacement scuttle panel doesnt have that grove to hold it in place. I need to double sided tape it down

[-JC-]

yes..? itll eventually split. what seems to be the problem? and the replacement scuttle panel gruppe M provides you doesnt have anywhere to attach the weather rubber strip to. Hence the picture.

Pics of an OEM intake hose with a split in it or GTFO.

[JDM EP3]

Pics of an OEM intake hose with a split in it or GTFO.

I'm also certain the OEM one will split too with the GruppeM thats why I changed it straight up.

[-JC-]

I'm keen to know what makes it split? Obviously the Gruppe M is a different size on the pipe to the stock intake, or it moves around alot?

Still bewildered that an intake that costs up to $1k and sometimes more requires so many other mods and replacement pipes etc. No doubt it looks great and performs well, but thats some expensive shit.

[JDM EP3]

Its probably that it moves around alot. Im not sure about the intake sizes if they are different. But yeah for the money it does have its drawbacks and could be alot better for the price, although the performance gains are well worth it.

[Mikeyy168]

not all the gruppe m intakes are the same. they're hand made so sometimes you may or may not have fitment issues. on top of that, the reason why it splits is cause of restriction of movement. you have your box being held down by your bonnet and when you change gears your whole engine moves - it makes sense for it to crack if anyone can picture what im trying to explain lol

[butterfingers]

not all the gruppe m intakes are the same. they're hand made so sometimes you may or may not have fitment issues. on top of that, the reason why it splits is cause of restriction of movement. you have your box being held down by your bonnet and when you change gears your whole engine moves - it makes sense for it to crack if anyone can picture what im trying to explain lol

would solid engine mounts help this problem?

[Mikeyy168]

your engine moves regardless when you change gears. you can get solid engine mounts and an engine torque damper but itll still move. specially when u hit vtec!

[butterfingers]

my engine only shakes when i give it a good telling off for having no torque. otherwise it doesnt dare move a muscle for fear of me showing it what real muscle is.

[egSi]

I'm keen to know what makes it split? Obviously the Gruppe M is a different size on the pipe to the stock intake, or it moves around alot?

Still bewildered that an intake that costs up to $1k and sometimes more requires so many other mods and replacement pipes etc. No doubt it looks great and performs well, but thats some expensive shit.

lol i agree wih JC.

[Mikeyy168]

lol i agree wih JC.

you get what you pay for :)

[kenny07]

you get what you pay for :)

very true... because i had 1k for gruppe M, not a silicon hose!

[butterfingers]

Injen CAI better bang for buck IMO

[CivicTypeR]

Pics of an OEM intake hose with a split in it or GTFO.

Yeah, OEM intake hose eventually splits. Mine even split back with my OEM airbox, don't know how that happened?

Judging from where the crack was and fracture pattern, it may have been due to engine movement and vibrations because there was a point in time where I had to drive with broken engine mounts while I waited for my order to arrive. :(

Didn't know it was broken until a few months after so that's just a theory.

Here it is:
http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w515/dcordova2806/IMG_0575.jpg

[kenny07]

Yeah, OEM intake hose eventually splits. Mine even split back with my OEM airbox, don't know how that happened?

Judging from where the crack was and fracture pattern, it may have been due to engine movement and vibrations because there was a point in time where I had to drive with broken engine mounts while I waited for my order to arrive. :(

Didn't know it was broken until a few months after so that's just a theory.

Here it is:
http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w515/dcordova2806/IMG_0575.jpg


oh wow!!

what happens if it cracks??

car is still drivable right?

[JDM EP3]

oh wow!!

what happens if it cracks??

car is still drivable right?

It will suck unfiltered air.

Also today noticed that the clunk from the steering rack has returned same as everyone else's . I had my rack regreased about 3 months ago and 2000km seems way too soon to need another regreasing.

[CivicTypeR]

It will suck unfiltered air.

Also today noticed that the clunk from the steering rack has returned same as everyone else's . I had my rack regreased about 3 months ago and 2000km seems way too soon to need another regreasing.

Yeah still driveable, but not recommended..

I found the clunking noise disappeared when I changed my rotors and pads.

[JDM EP3]

Nah the clunking noise is coming from the steering rack I'm pretty certain about that cause when I turn the steering wheel I hear it and feel it through the column

[bluey45]

Nah the clunking noise is coming from the steering rack I'm pretty certain about that cause when I turn the steering wheel I hear it and feel it through the column

Regrease time?

[JDM EP3]

Regrease time?

I did it like 2000km ago.... Im guessing its the slider that has worn out, if Im correct my understanding is that the slider is made out of some plastic. If thats the case it was an unwise material to choose by Honda engineers.
Does anyone else feel that even though the ep3 is well built it just doesnt have that proper JDM built feel to it?

[butterfingers]

I did it like 2000km ago.... Im guessing its the slider that has worn out, if Im correct my understanding is that the slider is made out of some plastic. If thats the case it was an unwise material to choose by Honda engineers.
Does anyone else feel that even though the ep3 is well built it just doesnt have that proper JDM built feel to it?

I reckon it does.

[geeang]

I did it like 2000km ago.... Im guessing its the slider that has worn out, if Im correct my understanding is that the slider is made out of some plastic. If thats the case it was an unwise material to choose by Honda engineers.
Does anyone else feel that even though the ep3 is well built it just doesnt have that proper JDM built feel to it?

Most likely because EP3's aren't actually properly JDM, they're EDM (built in the UK).
The JDM Facelift models have JDM engines but they were still assembled in the UK.

[r3ckless]

Better change ur username lol

[butterfingers]

Most likely because EP3's aren't actually properly JDM, they're EDM (built in the UK).
The JDM Facelift models have JDM engines but they were still assembled in the UK.

JDM facelift? Pre-fl have jdm k20a as well...

[-JC-]

Yeah, OEM intake hose eventually splits. Mine even split back with my OEM airbox, don't know how that happened?

Judging from where the crack was and fracture pattern, it may have been due to engine movement and vibrations because there was a point in time where I had to drive with broken engine mounts while I waited for my order to arrive. :(

Didn't know it was broken until a few months after so that's just a theory.

Thats not cool at all. Thankfully I'm headed in a direction that doesn't require an intake pipe.

[CivicTypeR]

Thats not cool at all. Thankfully I'm headed in a direction that doesn't require an intake pipe.

itb's?

[kenny07]

It will suck unfiltered air.

Also today noticed that the clunk from the steering rack has returned same as everyone else's . I had my rack regreased about 3 months ago and 2000km seems way too soon to need another regreasing.

when i got my steering rack regreased.. there was still a little bit of creaking when i take off... only like 1 or 2 small creaks.. which is alot better than previous

but i do notice sometimes it comes back and it creaks back to previously but after a while it just goes away...

[brody]

Most likely because EP3's aren't actually properly JDM, they're EDM (built in the UK).
The JDM Facelift models have JDM engines but they were still assembled in the UK.

Chassis was made in the UK. Everything else was jap. That's in the jdm model that is.
But yes.. all assembled back in Swindon UK.

[Giiberish]

Yeah, OEM intake hose eventually splits. Mine even split back with my OEM airbox, don't know how that happened?

Judging from where the crack was and fracture pattern, it may have been due to engine movement and vibrations because there was a point in time where I had to drive with broken engine mounts while I waited for my order to arrive. :(

Didn't know it was broken until a few months after so that's just a theory.

Here it is:
http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w515/dcordova2806/IMG_0575.jpg[/QUOTE]

Sorry dont mean to hijack thread but what did you replace it with. Mine is starting to crack as well. Did you replace with the same hose or a plastic one?

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/405/imag0056hy.jpg/

[CivicTypeR]

http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w515/dcordova2806/IMG_0575.jpg

Sorry dont mean to hijack thread but what did you replace it with. Mine is starting to crack as well. Did you replace with the same hose or a plastic one?

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/405/imag0056hy.jpg/[/QUOTE]

Replaced it with another OEM hose. They eventually crack though, so better off getting a silicon one such as Tegiwa.

[JDM EP3]

Yeah I just went with the Tegiwa one.
Btw I have now seem to have sorted out the high fuel consumption. I replaced the spark plugs with ones that are actually rated for the K20A. The ones I had previously were denso ones and were for the civic si got them off amazon thinking they would also suit the JDM k20 down to 10ltr/100 and that was halfway through a tank so hoping that with the new O2 sensor that goes lower.

Another update, have installed the rear coilovers and whiteline swaybar. Will be getting the fronts put in next week along with the j's racing tie rods, j's roll cecntre adjusters and if I have time the whole energy suspension bushing kit as well.

Rear on the car feels nice and planted now.
Will have some pics sometime next week.

[Mikeyy168]

which sparkies did you get mate?

[JDM EP3]

Same as Rps got in his thread the NGK BKR6EIX ones

[butterfingers]

Yeah I just went with the Tegiwa one.
Btw I have now seem to have sorted out the high fuel consumption. I replaced the spark plugs with ones that are actually rated for the K20A. The ones I had previously were denso ones and were for the civic si got them off amazon thinking they would also suit the JDM k20 down to 10ltr/100 and that was halfway through a tank so hoping that with the new O2 sensor that goes lower.

Another update, have installed the rear coilovers and whiteline swaybar. Will be getting the fronts put in next week along with the j's racing tie rods, j's roll cecntre adjusters and if I have time the whole energy suspension bushing kit as well.

Rear on the car feels nice and planted now.
Will have some pics sometime next week.

Do the roll centre adjuster only go on the front? On jdm concept they don't seem to have the rears

[Giiberish]

Is there a big difference between Tegiwa and ebay ones. Shipping to Aus is 50 pounds.

[JDM EP3]

Do the roll centre adjuster only go on the front? On jdm concept they don't seem to have the rears
Yeah they are just for the front.


Is there a big difference between Tegiwa and ebay ones. Shipping to Aus is 50 pounds.
I dont know in terms of quality or anything although shipping shouldnt be £50 i had more stuff than just tue intake pipe sent and it cost less than that to ship

[Giiberish]

are you buying from official tegiwa site?

[JDM EP3]

Yep....

[egSi]

Cracked Intake pipe looks ****ing nasty!

Roughly How many Ks before they crack?

What options are there for a replacement? Tegiwa and Js Racing only?

[Symphorced]

Cracked Intake pipe looks ****ing nasty!

Roughly How many Ks before they crack?

What options are there for a replacement? Tegiwa and Js Racing only?

SFS make a silicone one too. Been using mine for ages now and still going strong.

[JDM EP3]

Ok finally some updates!

Got my Buddy Club coils in on all corners at last.
Will let the fronts settle a bit for a week and see if they drop anymore. Currently have a little less than a two finger gap, or two tight fingers basically, might look at another 1cm drop all round.

Before
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120513_133522.jpg

After
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120724_213427.jpg

Yep, needs more low I think.

Before when I put the rears in I had some huge camber angle.

http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120724_122947.jpg
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120724_123014.jpg

J's racing tie rods and custom steering bracket installed also.

http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120724_164926.jpg
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120724_164842.jpg

Also go the front lower control arm bushings installed at the same time.

One of the apprentices there was changing my wiper blades, got home an hour later from clayton to northern suburbs only to realise my left windscreen wiper blade is missing.

Now I need a new alignment. I am getting some scrub when I turn left none on the right assume its due to camber etc being all out of wack.
Anyone know where I can get one for cheap? I'm assuming I will be making another 65km round trip to Clayton again to pick up my wiper blade....

[RPS.13]

Nice :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: Good to see you got all your stuff in.

Did you end up going to the place that I referred you too? How was the price??? Coz I'm looking at going there to get my clutch installed.

For wheel alignments, if you want cheap ones. Try Jax Quickfit in Caulfield, from memory it is $44 or $48 for a full alignment. Tell them you're a member of nissansilvia.com for that price or tell them Michael referred you. Just don't let them touch your brake fluids :p

[JDM EP3]

Nice :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: Good to see you got all your stuff in.

Did you end up going to the place that I referred you too? How was the price??? Coz I'm looking at going there to get my clutch installed.

For wheel alignments, if you want cheap ones. Try Jax Quickfit in Caulfield, from memory it is $44 or $48 for a full alignment. Tell them you're a member of nissansilvia.com for that price or tell them Michael referred you. Just don't let them touch your brake fluids :p

Yeah I ended up going to aj. The price was good considering that I got quoted that price elsewhere just for the tie rods and I got alot of stuff done with him yesterday.
I would say go there to get your clutch done, he doesnt charge by the hour just by the job which is great.

I'll go and give Jax a visit for a wheel alignment today or tomorrow.

Btw does anyone know where to get EP3 wipers? Or is it a particular type?

[dyvios]

Btw does anyone know where to get EP3 wipers? Or is it a particular type?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HONDA-CIVIC-TYPE-R-S-01-05-Aero-FLAT-Wiper-Blades-24-16-/180705934940?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a12e9be5c

cheap!

[RPS.13]

Yeah I ended up going to aj. The price was good considering that I got quoted that price elsewhere just for the tie rods and I got alot of stuff done with him yesterday.
I would say go there to get your clutch done, he doesnt charge by the hour just by the job which is great.

I'll go and give Jax a visit for a wheel alignment today or tomorrow.

Btw does anyone know where to get EP3 wipers? Or is it a particular type?

Good to hear man! Cool, I'll most likely get it done there. Had my clutch installed there for my 180 ages ago. Pretty cheap labour and he got it done within a day. I couldn't remember exactly how much i paid. Called him just before and got quoted $500 to install the clutch kit on the EP, damn cheap compared to other places wanting 800-900! He doesn't have a loan car unfortunately, which could prove to be a bit tricky.


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HONDA-CIVIC-TYPE-R-S-01-05-Aero-FLAT-Wiper-Blades-24-16-/180705934940?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a12e9be5c

cheap!

Woah! They're dirt cheap!

+1 for the aero style clip on ones. They wipe a lot smoother and cleaner than the OEM metal ones with the normal inserts. Plus they are a breeze to install, no cutting/measuring required.

[JDM EP3]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HONDA-CIVIC-TYPE-R-S-01-05-Aero-FLAT-Wiper-Blades-24-16-/180705934940?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a12e9be5c

cheap!

Damm they are cheap, just one at supercrap is $35. Thanks for that man :thumbsup:


Good to hear man! Cool, I'll most likely get it done there. Had my clutch installed there for my 180 ages ago. Pretty cheap labour and he got it done within a day. I couldn't remember exactly how much i paid. Called him just before and got quoted $500 to install the clutch kit on the EP, damn cheap compared to other places wanting 800-900! He doesn't have a loan car unfortunately, which could prove to be a bit tricky.



Woah! They're dirt cheap!

+1 for the aero style clip on ones. They wipe a lot smoother and cleaner than the OEM metal ones with the normal inserts. Plus they are a breeze to install, no cutting/measuring required.

Yeah thats a good price for the install of a clutch as its a pretty big job, plus you know with him he will just charge you what he quotes. Any other place and they will go by the hour, so any misshaps or phuck ups on their side cost you money.

Also went out today and dropped the front another 10 mill Im thinking the ride height looks sweet now.
Opinions?

http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120725_163721.jpg

[UNA91]

Does the steering bracket and tie rod ends really improve the handling or geometry? I'm dropped a little less than a finger gap up front, similar to your height, and been using stock bracket and tie rod for ages. I keep coming back to wondering if I really need it...

[JDM EP3]

Does the steering bracket and tie rod ends really improve the handling or geometry? I'm dropped a little less than a finger gap up front, similar to your height, and been using stock bracket and tie rod for ages. I keep coming back to wondering if I really need it...

I dont know about handling but I would say that it does improve geometry as it brings the tie rods higher and reduces the v angle you get from lowering it. So by having the angle close to stock it will reduce bump steer so it would play a role in handling.
Open up your hood and take a look at the tie rods, if they are angled up its probably good at looking at getting the bracket or the roll centre adjusters to correct the problem. I think that one or the other will suffice tbh. I didnt take a look at my rod angles today after the drop but I'll see if I can get some pics tomorrow.

[EG52NV]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HONDA-CIVIC-TYPE-R-S-01-05-Aero-FLAT-Wiper-Blades-24-16-/180705934940?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a12e9be5c

cheap!

Good year ones are $10 each at Costco

[Mikeyy168]

buy an intake hose yet? check this one out. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SFS-Silicone-RED-Induction-Hose-Honda-Civic-Type-R-EP3-/160819948622?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item25719dac4e

[JDM EP3]

Good year ones are $10 each at Costco

But you cant just walk in and buy em with out a membership?

[EG52NV]

But you cant just walk in and buy em with out a membership?

I have membership wanna go shopping?

[JDM EP3]

I have membership wanna go shopping?

Thanks for the offer man but im in melbourne. I needed to get the left wiper asap as i didnt have one and melb and rhe rain...

Btw did anyone have any issues with getting their camber settings sorted?
Guy is telling me I had -5 camber on the rear but he is telling me Its hard to get .5 on the rear done wtf?

[Icebox]

Thanks for the offer man but im in melbourne. I needed to get the left wiper asap as i didnt have one and melb and rhe rain...

Btw did anyone have any issues with getting their camber settings sorted?
Guy is telling me I had -5 camber on the rear but he is telling me Its hard to get .5 on the rear done wtf?

wow that -5 camber is pretty insane, when i got my coils put in my rears were only sitting at -2.68 camber with stock control arms etc

i think his just exaggerating a fair bit

[Perry]

Without camber arms your getting -5 no way!!!!

[JDM EP3]

wow that -5 camber is pretty insane, when i got my coils put in my rears were only sitting at -2.68 camber with stock control arms etc

i think his just exaggerating a fair bit

I went and looked at the reading and it was actually true.


Without camber arms your getting -5 no way!!!!

I have hard race camber arms installed when I did the rear coilovers.

[egSi]

looking pretty rad man :)

[JDM EP3]

looking pretty rad man :)

Thanks man.

Anyone have any ideas on how coilover suspension camber is adjusted?
Is it done through the pillowball mounts on the front shocks? Looks like mine havent been touched when they did my alignment.

[RPS.13]

Clear you inbox please :p

[JDM EP3]

Cleared!

[JDM EP3]

Finally got my Titanium exhaust after waiting ages for it, will try to have it installed very soon its very very light.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120807_212612.jpg

Also got these today.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120807_212959.jpg

[-JC-]

That exhaust looks fantastic. Almost a shame that it goes under the car and not on the roof!

Is that a BYP item? Keen to hear your thoughts once its on, I have been eyeing one of those myself.

[JDM EP3]

Yeah looks awesome but we dont need ricers with cannons on their roofs :p

Yeah its the BYP stuff, originally I wanted to get this back in May or so and waited forever when I understood this to be available straight away at a certain price. Then waited another 4 or 5 weeks for it to be modified from DC5 to Ep3. So a word of warning you can get some frustration from this, but its possible now that he has the dimensions, this wont be an issue anymore.

I'll definitely post up some thoughts on the exhaust and try to take some video as well.

[brody]

similar to my j's racing setup. But I have the dolphin fin tip

[JDM EP3]

Ok So some small updates.
Got my headers and Ti exhaust installed over the weekend and the difference is amazing.
The car pulls from down low much better now and then just screams into vtec and the sound is incredible.

Also had my track day at sandown yesterday. I had a couple of offs into the first corner on practice one and then 1st sprint as I came in too hot into that corner, second time I went off I hit the ripple strip pretty badly and unfortunately hit my mid pipe on my exhaust and dinted it :(

After those two offs I had a pretty good day learning the track and the limits of the ep3. I did easily hit the limiter down the back and front straights and that does freak you out as you have no power going to the wheels when going over the crest at the back or going over some bumps.

[JDM EP3]

Here are my times for the day.

Session one:


Alfa Romeo Club of Australia Sandown Sprints
SANDOWN INTERNATIONAL MOTOR RACEWAY

AROCA - Sprint 4

Practice S4 10 Mins
Scheduled Start 00:04

Page 1 Issue 1
Start Sun Aug 19 09:49
Elapsed Time 10:00
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________
Pos Car Competitor/Team Driver Vehicle Cap CL Laps Fastest...Lap Gap

1 231 AROCA Jeremy EDWARDS (4) Alfetta GTV R3 5 3 1:35.9027*
2 699 AROCA Frank MAXWELL (4) Subaru WRX A2 6 6 1:37.1058 0:01.2031
3 32 AROCA Hamish DALTON (4) VW R32 A2 5 4 1:43.6654 0:07.7627
4 130 AROCA Tony RADITSIS (4) Alfa Guilia Super R3 6 6 1:44.4288 0:08.5261
5 268 Jake BEKKERS (4) HQ HOLDEN A2 6 2 1:46.2287 0:10.3260
6 45 SAU-Vic Francesco SGRO (4) Nissan 200 SX A2 5 3 1:46.4884 0:10.5857
7 777 AROCA Paul KLISARIS (4) Alfetta GTV R3 5 5 1:46.5861 0:10.6834
8 22 AROCA James GRAY (4) BMW 318i A1 5 4 1:46.6255 0:10.7228
9 48 Cerberus Stephan GRONDIN (4) Nissan Skyline A2 6 2 1:47.1209 0:11.2182
10 4 AROCA Vince SARTOR (4) Alfa Guilia Super M3 2 2 1:47.7907 0:11.8880
11 19 AROCA Dominique CHALEYER (4) Alfa Giulia Sprint M3 5 4 1:48.1744 0:12.2717
12 139 PCCV Reg POLSON (3) Peugeot 205 GTI A1 6 6 1:48.2509 0:12.3482
13 511 AROCA Phil AARONS (4) Alfetta GTV TS R3 5 5 1:48.7877 0:12.8850
14 16 AROCA Michael SALVATORE (4) Alfa 155 Q4 R5 5 5 1:49.7327 0:13.8300
15 33 AROCA Paul CHALEYER (4) Alfa Giulietta 750 S M3 5 5 1:50.3816 0:14.4789
16 302 MX5 Vic Graham WILSON (4) Mazda 121 A1 5 5 1:50.4003 0:14.4976
17 18 AROCA Richard OUTRAM (4) Alfetta 1.8L M3 4 4 1:50.9853 0:15.0826
18 5 AROCA Gabriel DIGENIS (4) Alfa 105 GTV M3 5 4 1:53.4594 0:17.5567
19 41 VHRR Michael BAN (4) Sunbeam Alpine A1 5 5 1:53.9037 0:18.0010
20 44 AROCA Spaniard EP3 (4) Honda Civic A1 2 2 1:55.6435 0:19.7408
21 117 AROCA Bruce JACOBS (4) Alfa 75 TS M3 5 3 1:57.4673 0:21.5646
22 3 AROCA Neil CHOI (2) Alfetta GTV GpS R3 4 4 2:00.5049 0:24.6022
23 47 AROCA Oriano RIZIO (4) Alfa 105 GTV M3 4 4 2:02.4094 0:26.5067
24 9 AROCA Tim SHANNON (4) Alfetta GTV GpS R3 4 4 2:02.5252 0:26.6225
39 AROCA Matthew FRANCIS (4) Alfa 90 3L M4

Fastest Lap Av.Speed Is 116kph
R=under lap record by greatest margin, r=under lap record, *=fastest lap time
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________

Session 2

Practice S8 15 Mins
Scheduled Start 00:08

Page 1 Issue 1
Start Sun Aug 19 11:24
Elapsed Time 14:59
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________
Pos Car Competitor/Team Driver Vehicle Cap CL Laps Fastest...Lap Gap

1 231 AROCA Jeremy EDWARDS (4) Alfetta GTV R3 9 6 1:33.3500*
2 699 AROCA Frank MAXWELL (4) Subaru WRX A2 9 7 1:33.7778 0:00.4278
3 16 AROCA Michael SALVATORE (4) Alfa 155 Q4 R5 8 8 1:37.9377 0:04.5877
4 7 AROCA Robert VODOPIC (4) Nissan Pulsar A1 9 8 1:38.5961 0:05.2461
5 48 Cerberus Stephan GRONDIN (4) Nissan Skyline A2 8 6 1:38.9541 0:05.6041
6 45 SAU-Vic Francesco SGRO (4) Nissan 200 SX A2 8 7 1:39.2713 0:05.9213
7 130 AROCA Tony RADITSIS (4) Alfa Guilia Super R3 8 7 1:39.9362 0:06.5862
8 19 AROCA Dominique CHALEYER (4) Alfa Giulia Sprint M3 9 7 1:40.9905 0:07.6405
9 777 AROCA Paul KLISARIS (4) Alfetta GTV R3 8 7 1:41.2698 0:07.9198
10 511 AROCA Phil AARONS (4) Alfetta GTV TS R3 8 8 1:44.3603 0:11.0103
11 32 AROCA Hamish DALTON (4) VW R32 A2 8 8 1:45.4384 0:12.0884
12 5 AROCA Gabriel DIGENIS (4) Alfa 105 GTV M3 8 8 1:46.0126 0:12.6626
13 44 AROCA Spaniard EP3 (4) Honda Civic A1 2 2 1:46.0653 0:12.7153
14 268 Jake BEKKERS (4) HQ HOLDEN A2 8 8 1:46.0907 0:12.7407
15 18 AROCA Richard OUTRAM (4) Alfetta 1.8L M3 9 8 1:46.2858 0:12.9358
16 139 PCCV Reg POLSON (3) Peugeot 205 GTI A1 8 6 1:46.5578 0:13.2078
17 302 MX5 Vic Graham WILSON (4) Mazda 121 A1 8 7 1:47.1303 0:13.7803
18 22 AROCA James GRAY (4) BMW 318i A1 8 8 1:47.8515 0:14.5015
19 117 AROCA Bruce JACOBS (4) Alfa 75 TS M3 8 8 1:48.2254 0:14.8754
20 9 AROCA Tim SHANNON (4) Alfetta GTV GpS R3 8 7 1:48.7871 0:15.4371
21 33 AROCA Paul CHALEYER (4) Alfa Giulietta 750 S M3 8 7 1:50.0352 0:16.6852
22 41 VHRR Michael BAN (4) Sunbeam Alpine A1 8 8 1:51.1379 0:17.7879
23 47 AROCA Oriano RIZIO (4) Alfa 105 GTV M3 7 6 1:51.3414 0:17.9914
24 135 AROCA Nicholas GRIGG (3) Mazda MX5 A1 7 7 1:53.3884 0:20.0384
4 AROCA Vince SARTOR (4) Alfa Guilia Super M3

Fastest Lap Av.Speed Is 120kph
R=under lap record by greatest margin, r=under lap record, *=fastest lap time
__________________________________________________ _______________________________

[JDM EP3]

Session 3

Practice S12 15 Mins
Scheduled Start 00:12

Page 1 Issue 1
Start Sun Aug 19 13:12
Elapsed Time 15:00
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________
Pos Car Competitor/Team Driver Vehicle Cap CL Laps Fastest...Lap Gap

1 699 AROCA Frank MAXWELL (4) Subaru WRX A2 9 9 1:31.8047*
2 16 AROCA Michael SALVATORE (4) Alfa 155 Q4 R5 9 8 1:33.2467 0:01.4420
3 45 SAU-Vic Francesco SGRO (4) Nissan 200 SX A2 9 5 1:36.7914 0:04.9867
4 7 AROCA Robert VODOPIC (4) Nissan Pulsar A1 9 9 1:38.4841 0:06.6794
5 32 AROCA Hamish DALTON (4) VW R32 A2 9 8 1:39.5202 0:07.7155
6 19 AROCA Dominique CHALEYER (4) Alfa Giulia Sprint M3 9 6 1:40.4149 0:08.6102
7 130 AROCA Tony RADITSIS (4) Alfa Guilia Super R3 9 9 1:40.4249 0:08.6202
8 777 AROCA Paul KLISARIS (4) Alfetta GTV R3 9 8 1:40.7478 0:08.9431
9 511 AROCA Phil AARONS (4) Alfetta GTV TS R3 8 7 1:41.6898 0:09.8851
10 78 AROCA Andrew HARVEY (4) Toyota Corolla A1 8 7 1:42.0336 0:10.2289
11 44 AROCA Spaniard EP3 (4) Honda Civic A1 8 8 1:42.9142 0:11.1095
12 268 Jake BEKKERS (4) HQ HOLDEN A2 7 5 1:43.0746 0:11.2699
13 5 AROCA Gabriel DIGENIS (4) Alfa 105 GTV M3 6 6 1:43.2322 0:11.4275
14 22 AROCA James GRAY (4) BMW 318i A1 8 7 1:43.8569 0:12.0522
15 139 PCCV Reg POLSON (3) Peugeot 205 GTI A1 9 5 1:44.5787 0:12.7740
16 9 AROCA Tim SHANNON (4) Alfetta GTV GpS R3 9 7 1:45.2346 0:13.4299
17 302 MX5 Vic Graham WILSON (4) Mazda 121 A1 8 8 1:45.4801 0:13.6754
18 18 AROCA Richard OUTRAM (4) Alfetta 1.8L M3 8 8 1:45.6679 0:13.8632
19 117 AROCA Bruce JACOBS (4) Alfa 75 TS M3 8 6 1:48.3741 0:16.5694
20 135 AROCA Nicholas GRIGG (3) Mazda MX5 A1 8 8 1:48.8472 0:17.0425
21 47 AROCA Oriano RIZIO (4) Alfa 105 GTV M3 8 7 1:49.4993 0:17.6946
22 33 AROCA Paul CHALEYER (4) Alfa Giulietta 750 S M3 6 4 1:50.4253 0:18.6206
23 41 VHRR Michael BAN (4) Sunbeam Alpine A1 8 8 1:50.7497 0:18.9450
24 124 HSCCV Daniel van STOKROM (1) Holden LJ Torana A2 1 1 2:09.1682 0:37.3635
39 AROCA Matthew FRANCIS (4) Alfa 90 3L M4
4 AROCA Vince SARTOR (4) Alfa Guilia Super M3

Fastest Lap Av.Speed Is 122kph
R=under lap record by greatest margin, r=under lap record, *=fastest lap time

Session 4


Practice S16 15 Mins
Scheduled Start 00:16

Page 1 Issue 1
Start Sun Aug 19 14:56
Elapsed Time 15:00
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________
Pos Car Competitor/Team Driver Vehicle Cap CL Laps Fastest...Lap Gap

1 699 AROCA Frank MAXWELL (4) Subaru WRX A2 10 8 1:32.8009*
2 45 SAU-Vic Francesco SGRO (4) Nissan 200 SX A2 9 8 1:36.2845 0:03.4836
3 44 AROCA Spaniard EP3 (4) Honda Civic A1 9 6 1:37.1865 0:04.3856 Fastest lap of the day
4 17 AROCA Justin JACOBS (2) Alfa 75 TS M3 9 9 1:37.2205 0:04.4196
5 7 AROCA Robert VODOPIC (4) Nissan Pulsar A1 9 6 1:37.9163 0:05.1154
6 32 AROCA Hamish DALTON (4) VW R32 A2 9 7 1:39.8504 0:07.0495
7 511 AROCA Phil AARONS (4) Alfetta GTV TS R3 8 8 1:40.4854 0:07.6845
8 268 Jake BEKKERS (4) HQ HOLDEN A2 8 7 1:41.2324 0:08.4315
9 19 AROCA Dominique CHALEYER (4) Alfa Giulia Sprint M3 9 5 1:41.7570 0:08.9561
10 777 AROCA Paul KLISARIS (4) Alfetta GTV R3 8 5 1:41.8977 0:09.0968
11 130 AROCA Tony RADITSIS (4) Alfa Guilia Super R3 9 6 1:42.6283 0:09.8274
12 139 PCCV Reg POLSON (3) Peugeot 205 GTI A1 8 8 1:43.3682 0:10.5673
13 78 AROCA Andrew HARVEY (4) Toyota Corolla A1 8 6 1:43.8648 0:11.0639
14 302 MX5 Vic Graham WILSON (4) Mazda 121 A1 8 8 1:45.1039 0:12.3030
15 47 AROCA Oriano RIZIO (4) Alfa 105 GTV M3 8 7 1:45.5740 0:12.7731
16 18 AROCA Richard OUTRAM (4) Alfetta 1.8L M3 9 6 1:46.3008 0:13.4999
17 135 AROCA Nicholas GRIGG (3) Mazda MX5 A1 8 8 1:47.0181 0:14.2172
18 41 VHRR Michael BAN (4) Sunbeam Alpine A1 8 8 1:50.6835 0:17.8826
19 4 AROCA Vince SARTOR (4) Alfa Guilia Super M3 1 1 6:41.5651 5:08.7642

Fastest Lap Av.Speed Is 120kph
R=under lap record by greatest margin, r=under lap record, *=fastest lap time
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________

Session 4

Practice S20 15 Mins
Scheduled Start 00:20

Page 1 Issue 1
Start Sun Aug 19 16:37
Elapsed Time 14:46
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________
Pos Car Competitor/Team Driver Vehicle Cap CL Laps Fastest...Lap Gap

1 184 MX5 Vic Robert HART (1) Mazda MX5 A1 9 5 1:32.7697*
2 88 MX5 Vic Randy STAGNO-NAVARRA 1 Mazda MX5 A1 9 8 1:32.9932 0:00.2235
3 27 MX5 Vic Colin DENMAN-JONES (1) Mazda MX5 A1 5 5 1:33.6842 0:00.9145
4 15 MX5 Vic Stephen DOWNES (3) Mazda MX5 A1 7 3 1:35.7676 0:02.9979
5 57 MX5 Vic Peter PHILLIPS (1) Mazda MX5 A1 9 6 1:35.9733 0:03.2036
6 610 MX5 Vic Gary PRESCOTT (1) Mazda MX5 A1 9 5 1:36.9150 0:04.1453
7 141 MX5 Vic Max LLOYD (3) Mazda MX5 A1 8 5 1:37.6866 0:04.9169
8 44 AROCA Spaniard Ep3 (4) Honda Civic A1 9 6 1:37.7040 0:04.9343
9 64 AROCA Joe FALCONE (2) Alfa 75 TS M3 9 6 1:38.1217 0:05.3520
10 62 MX5 Vic Noel HERITAGE (1) Mazda MX5 A1 5 5 1:38.5161 0:05.7464
11 7 AROCA Robert VODOPIC (4) Nissan Pulsar A1 9 5 1:38.7760 0:06.0063
12 83 AROCA John CUMMING (2) Alfasud Ti M3 6 3 1:40.2719 0:07.5022
13 511 AROCA Phil AARONS (4) Alfetta GTV TS R3 7 3 1:42.1427 0:09.3730
14 78 AROCA Andrew HARVEY (4) Toyota Corolla A1 8 8 1:42.3987 0:09.6290
15 271 MX5 Vic John STONE (3) Mazda MX5 A1 6 6 1:42.6204 0:09.8507
16 36 MX5 Vic Paul MURPHY (3) Mazda MX5 A1 7 6 1:43.2089 0:10.4392
17 130 AROCA Tony RADITSIS (4) Alfa Guilia Super R3 8 5 1:43.5482 0:10.7785
18 139 PCCV Reg POLSON (3) Peugeot 205 GTI A1 8 6 1:43.6692 0:10.8995
19 19 AROCA Dominique CHALEYER (4) Alfa Giulia Sprint M3 8 8 1:45.4601 0:12.6904
20 18 AROCA Richard OUTRAM (4) Alfetta 1.8L M3 8 8 1:45.6481 0:12.8784
21 47 AROCA Oriano RIZIO (4) Alfa 105 GTV M3 8 8 1:47.8121 0:15.0424
22 135 AROCA Nicholas GRIGG (3) Mazda MX5 A1 8 7 1:48.0573 0:15.2876
23 41 VHRR Michael BAN (4) Sunbeam Alpine A1 8 7 1:52.0873 0:19.3176
24 4 AROCA Vince SARTOR (4) Alfa Guilia Super M3 1 1 2:12.1397 0:39.3700

Fastest Lap Av.Speed Is 120kph
R=under lap record by greatest margin, r=under lap record, *=fastest lap time

[JDM EP3]

Here are some videos of the day. I couldnt get any in car as my mount broke as I was trying to set it up, so I gave my phone to my brother who used zoom on the phone which works shithouse.




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwxrqRO2c7o&feature=youtu.be

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFboKSE-Y88

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdL5lQyXN5g
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120819_092834.jpg
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120819_092923.jpg
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20120819_092914.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7246/7822140724_3c064e50f3_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rat156/7822140724/)
Sandown120819-1628.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rat156/7822140724/) by ratalfa (http://www.flickr.com/people/rat156/), on Flickr
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8447/7822061968_60c062ff77_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rat156/7822061968/)
Sandown120819-899.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rat156/7822061968/) by ratalfa (http://www.flickr.com/people/rat156/), on Flickr

[egSi]

props for racing your shit bro

[aRze]

Beautiful car man, and great improvement in your times over the day :)

Just wondering man, how do the Buddy Club RSD feel on the street?
Are you running different damper settings for street and track?

[JDM EP3]

Beautiful car man, and great improvement in your times over the day :)

Just wondering man, how do the Buddy Club RSD feel on the street?
Are you running different damper settings for street and track?

Hey thanks man. It was my first track experience in a car and not my usual go kart so it was fun along with learning how to start setting up the car.

The buddy Clubs RSD for street are ok. I find that even on low damper of 5 it can get a tiny bit bumpy, not uncomfortable although when you go over a bump as you have your foot pressed down on the accelerator you do tend to hop as your leg moves from the car going over the bump which gets annoying as hell. Other than that I notice the perches come loose all the time but its a trade off with all coilovers.

With the damper it depends on what you want to run on the street. At Sandown coming off the last corner onto the straight I had to drop some stiffness off the front cause the car would hop over the many bumps and lose traction.

[JDM EP3]

So small update atm.
Getting ready for Sandown track day in a few weeks.

Received my Schroth racing harness today so got to work installing it.
Was a pretty simple install that installs to all the OEM locations so no need for a cage or harness bar.

The rear bolts into the stock OEM seatbelt locations under the seat.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20121003_122142_zps1badcb5b.jpg
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20121003_142525_zps01ee0145.jpg

While under there I discovered a little bit of a surprise....
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20121003_122158_zps8bb649ea.jpg
Im now 200 yen richer! Will be there for a year so got some free spending money :p

With this model harness you can detacth the rear from the front with a buckle and leave it there so you can still take rear seat passengers and take the front belt off for daily if you want or just throw it around the back of the seat.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20121003_142426_zpsc80c9656.jpg
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20121003_142553_zpsfeee65dd.jpg

And finally installed. The side bolts straight into the stock seat.
The only thing I had to do was disassemble the front straps and feed them through the stock holes at the head rest and then re do them up. Was scratching my head for a few mins trying to figure out how to take them out but reassembling was easy.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/SpaniardEP3/IMG_20121003_142409_zps35846934.jpg

They hold really tight so will be much better than using the stock belt for the track.
My only complaint was that I wish they had about 60 or 70cm more belt as Im pretty slim, except for the gut so that limits your seating adjustment just a tad but overall very happy with the belt, features and price.

Few more updates will be coming soon if I get my parts here on time.

[kenny07]

oh nice... i didnt think you could get racing seatbeat things with ur back seats still intact..

awesome!

i've got an question for your BYP Ti exhaust..

is it noticeble louder when you drive normally?

[JDM EP3]

oh nice... i didnt think you could get racing seatbeat things with ur back seats still intact..

awesome!

i've got an question for your BYP Ti exhaust..

is it noticeble louder when you drive normally?

It depends on the type of belt you buy. Some will only have the roll bar or harness bar attachments only. I bough this one for that reason plus its a Schroth.

With the exhaust, its not really loud at all when normal cruising, you will get a bit of noise on take off depending on how hard you push but I drive up to 4k with hardly anything but a low rumble. You get more noise when taking your foot off the accelerator.
But its loud as fk when you wind it out. So compared to stock under normal circumstances it is definitely noticeable.

[kenny07]

It depends on the type of belt you buy. Some will only have the roll bar or harness bar attachments only. I bough this one for that reason plus its a Schroth.

With the exhaust, its not really loud at all when normal cruising, you will get a bit of noise on take off depending on how hard you push but I drive up to 4k with hardly anything but a low rumble. You get more noise when taking your foot off the accelerator.
But its loud as fk when you wind it out. So compared to stock under normal circumstances it is definitely noticeable.

oh okay.. thanks!

looking at the BYP Ti exhaust for my next mod! :D

cant wait!

[JDM EP3]

oh okay.. thanks!

looking at the BYP Ti exhaust for my next mod! :D

cant wait!
hey mate after further use with the exhaust my recomendations is dont get it. It hangs too low gets brittle with heqt and a whole lot of of shit thats wrong with it. Sent byp a email but no response. Spend your money elswhere its not worth two cents after the shit i gone throught with it.

[Perry]

What happen?

[JDM EP3]

As i said before, the exhaust hangs way too low even with my conservative height and 17's. I scrape over all speed humps. The titanium being so thin walled will then get brittle as heat goes through it. It get so brittle that a small scrape over a speed himp turned into a hole, now that hole is the size of a golf ball as the metal just gets brittler and brittler amd weak, to the point now that i have a large crack running up from the hole tote top of the pipe. If i wanted to i could just crustily bend it in half with no force . Not one bit happy at how it that mid pipe was designed. even looked at rps.13's exhaust with smaller 16's and a much much lower height than mine and he still had shitloads more clearamce than me. Sent from my phone so crapload of spelling mistakes but the least of my problems.....fuuu

[Symphorced]

Got a side profile of the car to show how much lower the exhaust sits from the chassis? I know a lot of exhausts designed for EP3/DC5 hang lower because otherwise they hit the chassis. My TODA exhaust b-pipe is easily the lowest part of my car too. Sits about 80mm off the ground whereas my front lip sits about 100mm off the ground.

[JDM EP3]

Got a side profile of the car to show how much lower the exhaust sits from the chassis? I know a lot of exhausts designed for EP3/DC5 hang lower because otherwise they hit the chassis. My TODA exhaust b-pipe is easily the lowest part of my car too. Sits about 80mm off the ground whereas my front lip sits about 100mm off the ground.

Ill see if i can grab a shot tomorrow amd post it sometime this or next week when im in japan but i can pro fit a whole fist and a half inbetween that and the chassis. Ask mike if you need proof even his mates there were like wtf????....

[kenny07]

hey mate after further use with the exhaust my recomendations is dont get it. It hangs too low gets brittle with heqt and a whole lot of of shit thats wrong with it. Sent byp a email but no response. Spend your money elswhere its not worth two cents after the shit i gone throught with it.

yeah i was told by BYP that the exhaust hangs pretty low.. i think they mention coz it something with the diameter...

or something something... i dont really remember...

so is your Ti exhuast all cracked and stuff now?

[JDM EP3]

yeah i was told by BYP that the exhaust hangs pretty low.. i think they mention coz it something with the diameter...

or something something... i dont really remember...

so is your Ti exhuast all cracked and stuff now?
Yeah, but it doesnt have anything to do with the diameter at all just that it wasnt bent to the exhaust tunnel shape like it should have. Yep its all cracked and fckd now if you must have it jist get the muffler and fit a SS mid pipe thats made by a reputable brand or get custom made Ti not worth it IMHO and im completly pissed off and dissapointed at byp amd still no response from them at all yet about it.