First 1k service

[BigBen]

Does anyone know what is involved with the first 1k service?
I doubt that they drop the oil and filter at 1K or even at 5k.

I might do this at 1k-2k myself as I clock alot of km and can't be without a car for a day.

If you do your own oil and filter change with OEM parts at the proper intervals, will Honda still warrant the warranty? Or is this one of those grey areas.

I'm not a qualified mechanic but I have worked and rebuild engines from v-twins, inline 4, I6,V8 and even a couple of V12 from a SL600 Merc.

[ChaosMaster]

At 1k, usually it's just a check up to see if anything has gone wrong. Some dealers will claim that they change the oil, they won't. If you look at the book, it's just a check up to make sure nothing has come loose.

[trism]

I know a few people that will do a half interval oil change the first time.

As for doing it yourself, no, you will loose your warranty unless you can get the log book stamped.

[hondaEK4]

First Free Inspection. Also ask to get the oil+filter changed or do it yourself i would recommend this, as you are running in the motor pretty much. Don't think it will warrant the warranty.
At Holden its at 3000km, we have had customers asking for an oil change at the inspection.

[EuroGraphite]

Does anyone know what is involved with the first 1k service?
I doubt that they drop the oil and filter at 1K or even at 5k.

I might do this at 1k-2k myself as I clock alot of km and can't be without a car for a day.

If you do your own oil and filter change with OEM parts at the proper intervals, will Honda still warrant the warranty? Or is this one of those grey areas.

I'm not a qualified mechanic but I have worked and rebuild engines from v-twins, inline 4, I6,V8 and even a couple of V12 from a SL600 Merc.
I just did my 1K service the other week. As others have mentioned, its just a free checkup on the car. The items are listed in your service book. I requested for an oil and oil filter change which costs $100 (inc filter but byo oil). From start to finish was less than an hour.

If you diy, you will need to make sure you have ALL the receipts, i.e. oil filter, oil, et al. They will honour the warranty unless you buggered something up or used something you shouldn't. An hour out of my day every 6mths or so isnt too bad. Most of the service items are just oil and oil filter. Compared to other car makers, the costs arent too bad. Another advantage is that if they had new software/firmware updates, you will get it automatically.

hth

[ChaosMaster]

Depends on where you go. Astoria Honda (in Vic) loans free hire car, although you pay 5 bux for fuel and tyre wear. Very reasonable amount. I would do that, then do the oil and filter change myself. No need to pay $100 for labour, such a rip for 1/2 hrs work (half of which is spent waiting for the oil to drain).

[buddah51au]

Personally, i switch to Mobil 1 & change filter at 2000km.

[Fredoops]

Personally, i switch to Mobil 1 & change filter at 2000km.

having full-syn at 2000km would prolong the run-in of the car tho wouldnt it?

[EuroGraphite]

Depends on where you go. Astoria Honda (in Vic) loans free hire car, although you pay 5 bux for fuel and tyre wear. Very reasonable amount. I would do that, then do the oil and filter change myself. No need to pay $100 for labour, such a rip for 1/2 hrs work (half of which is spent waiting for the oil to drain).

Wasnt $100....

To each their own, most ppl wouldnt even ask for an oil change at the 1000km service. I would rather pay someone $80 to do it than stuffing around with jacks, stands, underbody clips, oil filter, washers et al. It would take me a couple of hours minimum, including the stuffing around finding your council oil disposal centre. I'd rather spend my that time with my family. :)

[MR_LATE]

Depends if the receptionist is hot. Nuff said

[outatime]

if u look at your car's manual, it says do not change the oil until the 6 month service..

[buddah51au]

Not at all, just think of the number of high performance vehicles that use Mobile 1 as a factory fill. It is just a myth that Synthetic oil is not suitable for running in a new engine.

Quote :- My general recommendations are to run the factory installed petroleum oil for about the
about the first 500-1000 miles, or your first scheduled oil change; whichever you choose.
Then drain the oil, remove the factory installed oil filter and then install a premium
quality synthetic motor oil and a premium quality oil filter and your ready to go. Again, I
want to make it clear that synthetic oil will not prevent your engine from properly
wearing in and you most certainly can convert to synthetic oil sooner than 500 miles if
you desire.

By changing the factory installed oil and filter around the first 500-1000 miles, or the first
scheduled oil change, you will also be removing the initial wear-in particulates present in
the oil and filter. The reason for this is that during initial wear-in there is very high
particulate contamination in the oil. These particulates consist mainly of microscopic
particles of aluminum, chromium, copper, tin, bronze, lead and iron, plus soot particles
and other by-products of combustion in your oil.
The oil filter cannot filter out all these small particulates since many are sub-micron size
and too small for the filter to trap, but they are also small enough to fit between bearings
and other internal clearances and potentially cause wear. That is why I recommend to that
in order to properly wear-in a new engine perform the first oil and filter change at about
500-1000 miles, or the first scheduled oil change, whichever you prefer and feel
comfortable with. Personally, I convert my new vehicles and equipment to synthetic as
soon as possible, within the first 500-1000 miles,

Fredoops - Even you posted this link - http://www.motor-oil-engineers.com/Motor%20Oil%20Engineers%20PDF.pdf
Obviously you haven't taken the time to read it, although the writer is obviously very 1 sided towards Amsoil.

[antony]

I always negotiate a free car from Astoria Honda...

[curtis265]

erm.. i thought ur not supposed to use synthetic oil possible so that the rings can wear in properly... (synthetic being too slippery)

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[ChaosMaster]

Wasnt $100....

To each their own, most ppl wouldnt even ask for an oil change at the 1000km service. I would rather pay someone $80 to do it than stuffing around with jacks, stands, underbody clips, oil filter, washers et al. It would take me a couple of hours minimum, including the stuffing around finding your council oil disposal centre. I'd rather spend my that time with my family. :)

I agree to the each to their own part. $80 is half a days work for me vs half an hr job, not to mention, while waiting for the oil to drain, I'm still with the family. Since your not familiar with it, I guess it would take about as long for you to do it as it takes to earn that $80 so it balances out. $20 for an oil filter is.......

[EuroGraphite]

Yups, thats pretty much it, though i am familiar with it (worked for a few months as a mechanic in my friends workshop). If you have the facilities, then it will take 30mins or so. Its something i had done myself for many years. For something that needs to be done only a couple of times a year, storing the stands, jack et al is pita. I much prefer using that space to store my gerni, porter cable RO, foams, etc. :)

$20 for an oil filter is expensive imho. Have you bought the oem honda oil filter before? If not, what are you using?

[ChaosMaster]

Lolz, I'm saying you paid $20 for the oil filter. I mean you said:

I just did my 1K service the other week. As others have mentioned, its just a free checkup on the car. The items are listed in your service book. I requested for an oil and oil filter change which costs $100 (inc filter but byo oil). From start to finish was less than an hour.

Then:

Wasnt $100.... I would rather pay someone $80 to do it
So I assumed the $20 difference was for the oil filter. Even a K&N Pro Gold filter isn't that expensive.

[buddah51au]

erm.. i thought ur not supposed to use synthetic oil possible so that the rings can wear in properly... (synthetic being too slippery)

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


If you read http://www.motor-oil-engineers.com/Motor%20Oil%20Engineers%20PDF.pdf it states that Synthetic oil is no more slippery than mineral oil. It is a detailed, although 1 sided report from Amsoil. If you couldn't run an engine in on Synthetic oil, why is that many manufacturers are now using Synthetic Oil from the initial factory fill?

[Fredoops]

If you read http://www.motor-oil-engineers.com/Motor%20Oil%20Engineers%20PDF.pdf it states that Synthetic oil is no more slippery than mineral oil. It is a detailed, although 1 sided report from Amsoil. If you couldn't run an engine in on Synthetic oil, why is that many manufacturers are now using Synthetic Oil from the initial factory fill?

I don't think all engines have the same tolerance levels tho, some are designed running synthetics from The get go.

I cant compare a Honda K24 with a VQ35DETT (off a R35 GTR) which came with M1 0w-40 as OEM fill for example.

I know Acura TSX came wih full syn fill recently (0w-20 from Kendall), but it's not that great of an oil for protection, so it works for the TSX.

There's this article from the internets, I appears to depend on the synethetic oil as well.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/Running-in-on-synthetics.doc

[curtis265]

If you read http://www.motor-oil-engineers.com/Motor%20Oil%20Engineers%20PDF.pdf it states that Synthetic oil is no more slippery than mineral oil. It is a detailed, although 1 sided report from Amsoil. If you couldn't run an engine in on Synthetic oil, why is that many manufacturers are now using Synthetic Oil from the initial factory fill?

cue the conspiracy theorists.

edit: I KNOW



honda rings have very tight clearances, so they wear in faster and can run synthetic faster



u reckon?

[EuroGraphite]

Lolz, I'm saying you paid $20 for the oil filter. I mean you said:

Then:

So I assumed the $20 difference was for the oil filter. Even a K&N Pro Gold filter isn't that expensive.

yups, you are spot on with the $20 being the oil filter. I was just saying that it is expensive for an oil filter. By your reaction, i am guessing you are not using the honda oem filter...?

[ChaosMaster]

Nah, not Honda OEM. Currently using a Repco one, next time will be using a K&N one.

[Fredoops]

I paid $20 for an oil filter.

Not OEM, Mobil 1 EP filter, 2x capacity (so they claim)

[ChaosMaster]

Yeah, well I figured anything from Honda themselves is going to be 2x RRP anyway, so I don't bother.

[BigBen]

BTW - Mobil 1 in Aust is a group 3 oil which is a mineral oil highly refine to a point where it MEETS a fully synthetic oil and call it a fully synthetic oil. The real full synthetic Mobil 1 oil can be purchase from Porsche but its not the same price as the one you purchase from Supercheap etc.

Look for Group 4 or 5 oils such as Motul, Amsoil, Redline etc - they are PAO or ester base oils.

[BigBen]

If you read http://www.motor-oil-engineers.com/Motor%20Oil%20Engineers%20PDF.pdf it states that Synthetic oil is no more slippery than mineral oil. It is a detailed, although 1 sided report from Amsoil. If you couldn't run an engine in on Synthetic oil, why is that many manufacturers are now using Synthetic Oil from the initial factory fill?

Synthetic oil does not break down as quickly as mineral oil, therefore you can have a longer oil change interval.

When mineral oil breaks down it tends to build up sludge which will eventually kill the motor. If you change cars every 4-5 years then you don't need to worry about sludge unless you do very short trips.

[Fredoops]

BTW - Mobil 1 is Aust is a group 3 oil which is a mineral oil highly refine to a point where it MEETS a fully synthetic oil and call it a fully synthetic oil. The real full synthetic Mobil 1 oil can be purchase from Porsche but its not the same price as the one you purchase from Supercheap etc.

Look for Group 4 or 5 oils such as Motul, Amsoil, Redline etc - they are PAO or ester base oils.

Not really true. It's not that simple. This topics discussed to the death already on another thread

M1 gold (0w-40) is group 4.

You'd be very hard pressed to find any 0w-40 or heavier (and indeed 0w-30) synthetic oil that is nOt a group 4 or 5, simply because the group3 base oil find it very difficult to reach that grade.

Hence why the price jump between 5w-30 and 0w-40 Mobil 1 (and castrol edge etc etc)

[tron07]

This Penrit HRT you mention before, its group III as well, right?

[Fredoops]

This Penrit HRT you mention before, its group III as well, right?
at that price? yeah.