Oil cooler help! Urgent!

[lil_foy]

Hey guys!

Im a bit stuck at the moment, i've got a b16a2 with an oem oil cooler but im looking to replace it with an aftermarket oil cooler as I track the car regularly. Only problem im running into is I dont know what to do regarding the fitting for the block, what do I replace the large oem fitting with since I wont be running the oem cooler with anymore?
Cars off the road till I sort this!

Thanks guys,
Andrew

[e240]

You have 3 options.

1) Remove the OEM unit, and plug up the water holes
2) Leave the OEM as it is and fix the Cooler adaptor on the OEM cooler
3) Leave the OEM as it is, but plug up the water holes and fix the cooler adaptor on the oem cooler

[lil_foy]

I realize that but I've had troubles finding out what I use to mount the oil filter too if I remove the oem cooler, I've found a b20 male to male block fitting should fit my block and let me delete the oem cooler. Anyone want to confirm though?

[DLO01]

Why do you want to remove the Oem cooler?

[lil_foy]

I don't feel the need to stack an oem cooler, sensor sandwich plate, oil cooler plate and a filter as well. Plus I also had a split occur in one of my oem lines, which is why I'm tackling the problem now.

[e240]

With working OEM cooler
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/e240_a/IMAG0527-1.jpg


De-activated OEM cooler...
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/e240_a/P180311_2259.jpg

[lil_foy]

Interesting.
Id rather delete the whole thing though, as i dont really like the idea of stacking so many plates. Does anyone know if the solid water line off a b20 will fit a b16 as well? Would be an option eather then plugging the oem cooler holes on it.

[Jccck]

Interesting.
Id rather delete the whole thing though, as i dont really like the idea of stacking so many plates. Does anyone know if the solid water line off a b20 will fit a b16 as well? Would be an option eather then plugging the oem cooler holes on it.

The OEM Heat Exchanger is a VERY useful item.. Keep it at all costs.

[Limbo]

Its there for a reason, unless your gonna build a track car i'd keep it on there and jsut add a sandwich plate.
Even on my previously boosted ek4 i did this and it was fine.

[lil_foy]

Its there for a reason, unless your gonna build a track car i'd keep it on there and jsut add a sandwich plate.
Even on my previously boosted ek4 i did this and it was fine.


Thats the thing, 90% of the cars driving is at the track (It also gets driven out there and to alignments) . I've got a new oem fitting from honda so I can run a plate straight off the block now.
Oil cooler has a thermostat so it'll get up to temp fine. The other problem is, if I ran a sandwich plate on top of the oem cooler, wouldn't be temp readindgs be false since they've already passed through a cooler?

[DLO01]

I think the Oem water/oil cooler only cools with oil going back in to the engine ie outside part. So putting your temp sensor in your sandwich plate will not have that affect as its before the oil goes back in to engine. The oil comes up through the center part from the sump and returns back to the engine through the outside part.

Just depends where you put the temp sensor. Make sure you put it pre oil cooler and not after.

Better place is to have your temp sensor plumbed in to your sump where the oil is hottest.

[lil_foy]

I think the Oem water/oil cooler only cools with oil going back in to the engine ie outside part. So putting your temp sensor in your sandwich plate will not have that affect as its before the oil goes back in to engine. The oil comes up through the center part from the sump and returns back to the engine through the outside part.

Just depends where you put the temp sensor. Make sure you put it pre oil cooler and not after.

Better place is to have your temp sensor plumbed in to your sump where the oil is hottest.

Sounds logical as then the oil would be filtered pre-oem cooler, regardless im not really keen to stack various plates if not needed so it's going. Oil sensor will be in a plate, pre-cooler, so it's accurate.

Just for anyone else that ever wants to do this;

Oem part number for the block fitting is 90015-PH1-013, I used the part number off a b20 since they dont use an oem cooler, it was $7.50~ from honda aus.
You will also need to plug the coolant hole in the block either with a m16x1.5 bolt or rubber plug
Also you will need to change the coolant hardline to a non oil cooler variant or plug it.

[Scholzey]

i dont like having the oil take 15min to get up to temp while the water gets up to temp in 5 or less. thermostat or not, the oil wont heat up at the same speed as the water unless you have the oem honda part on there.

i have this situation at the moment, and i dont like it, i also need an oil cooler to get the temps down, and without a thermo for the oil cooler, its gunna take forever to get oil temps up..

[Apu]

So correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that the whole point of multi-grade oils? If cold, it still circulates as it should. Of course, common sense dictates that you don't thrash the car till the oil warms up properly.

Another thought - location is also important. On my MX5, I've mounted my oil cooler between the firewall and the windscreen. That's a pressure area so there's a lot of air movement there at speed. I haven't fitted a temp guage yet but my guess is that if I keep the speeds reasonable till the car warms up, there's not going to be a whole lot of air movement there. However when I belt it, there'll be enough air movement to help cool the oil.

The setup I have on the MX5 is a blanking plate with 2 connections for sensors so you can get temp before cooler and temp after cooler. I've also got a filter relocator in between the cooler which makes changing the filter a cinch.

Not so familiar with the Integra setup yet - but from glancing through this thread...it's water/heat exchanger?! Anyway, I'll be under there soon to check out what I can/need to do.

If you do want a thermostat, Revolution Racegear sell an inline unit for about $150.