ED VTEC Conversion - Keepin the Carby

[Blaeven]

Hi Guys,

I've had a search around, not only here, but other forums, but haven't been able to find much help.

My poor old ED6's D15B4 is leaking a shitload of oil and blows a whole bucketload of smoke. I'm thinking it's time to get that old motor out and slot in a nice D16Y1 VTEC motor. The thing is, I'm quite keen on the idea of keeping it carby. I've found a weber manifold in the US and will most likely be running some Twin 40s on it before too long, but first things first, I need to get the motor in.

The first thing that I'm wondering is, do I need to get a loom with the motor if I'm not worried about the ECU being able to run the motor. The loom is only to connect the engine to the ECU correct? And if my car runs fine without the ECU (which i've tested by pulling the ECU fuse and driving the car for a week) then theoretically I don't even need the loom correct? (I'll sort out something for VTEC engagement later, most likely a VTEC controller or a re-engineered shift light kit from Jaycar)

My second question is, can I just re-use my D15B4 dizzy (vacuum advance) on the D16Y1?

Thirdly, I can't think of anything else I'd need to change other than sorting out a fuel pump (I'm probably going to go with an electronic one in the engine bay) and some sort of VTEC engagement. The D15 Carby manifold should bolt on fine for now, and so should the exhaust manifold I have. Any one else who can think of something that I'm not thinking of would be a massive help to me here.

I really appreciate any help anyone is willing to offer me on this, and once it's done I'm happy to take people for a ride in my carby VTEC... :P

Thanks guys

[trism]

Yes its possible.

You didnt search hard enough, theres a 20 page thread already on this.

[Lukezen27]

Why not EFI and B16 convert Tristan...!!

Get the JDM B16A 125kw power in a wicked light car

[Webby_roller]

EFI will allow you to do alot more motors.... I had an ED and it had the d15b EFI vtec engine.... was well done is is practically the same motor in terms of size and whatnot.... can always run a mini-me swap.... single cam vtec engines and you take the wiring out, swap on the carby stuff and go from there... lots of stuff on it so have a search around... good luck

[ECU-MAN]

dont bother with the carbs


PGMFI all the way. You will maximise the engines performance as well.

[Blaeven]

I can't find anything regarding whether a loom is required when doing the carby conversion, nor do can I find if the D16Y1 and D15B4 are 100% interchangeable without swapping anything over...

[Blaeven]

Hey Luke... you gonna bank roll a B series swap for me? hehe... Hows the EP going?

I literally want to do the cheapest thing possible, while still getting some kind of upgrade... I have 3/5 of bugger all money to spend and I don't see myself coming into any money any time soon... my only saving grace is that I now work for a performance workshop that allows me to get trade price on stuff :/

D16Y1 seems like a cheap upgrade given I can get a long motor for not too much, keeping it carby keeps costs down so long as I don't need to re-wire the car for the stupid ECU controlled carb system... (hence my question about the loom)

besides, in the long run i'll be more likely to fit a weber manifold to it and run some dual side-drafts on it, there is just something about the carby induction noise that EFI can't beat... :P

[Lukezen27]

Hey Luke... you gonna bank roll a B series swap for me? hehe... Hows the EP going?

I literally want to do the cheapest thing possible, while still getting some kind of upgrade... I have 3/5 of bugger all money to spend and I don't see myself coming into any money any time soon... my only saving grace is that I now work for a performance workshop that allows me to get trade price on stuff :/

D16Y1 seems like a cheap upgrade given I can get a long motor for not too much, keeping it carby keeps costs down so long as I don't need to re-wire the car for the stupid ECU controlled carb system... (hence my question about the loom)

besides, in the long run i'll be more likely to fit a weber manifold to it and run some dual side-drafts on it, there is just something about the carby induction noise that EFI can't beat... :P

if I bank roll anythng it will be for a SC for my TYPE-R :)

Yeah she's going great, about 10k away for 90,000km

You can have so some much more if you go the EFI route!!

D16Y1 are a good little motor but you should consider D16Y1 + EFI conversion.... would leave the door open for future mods while not costing heaps more IMO.

[Blaeven]

D16y1 is in and running on the carbs... run lean on idle because the carby manifold doesn't mate up to the Y1 head completely due to having gaps in between the runners for vacuum equalisation which, on the Y1, are just pulling fresh air on idle.

When it revs out it goes great though, clean, smooth all the way from 2500 to redline at between 11.5:1 and 12:1 AFR on my wideband.

only problem I have is that VTEC isn't hooked up yet (power tends to die out past about 5500), and my fuel pump is flowing a little too much fuel and floods the carbs sometimes...

I have a VTEC controller and a Fuel pressure regulator to fix both those issues, problem is that I don't know where the hell to wire in the RPM signal for the VTEC controller... I've searched and searched, and even though I have an ECU pinout diagram now, I still don't know where to wire it in... my friend suggested wiring it into the dash, but I don't know where the RPM signal wire for the dash is either...

ECU Pinout:
http://i51.tinypic.com/2efro2g.jpg

[chargeR]

Great work guy, good to see someone keeping the carbies. Best out luck sorting out output your VTEC.

[Lukezen27]

D16y1 is in and running on the carbs... run lean on idle because the carby manifold doesn't mate up to the Y1 head completely due to having gaps in between the runners for vacuum equalisation which, on the Y1, are just pulling fresh air on idle.

When it revs out it goes great though, clean, smooth all the way from 2500 to redline at between 11.5:1 and 12:1 AFR on my wideband.

only problem I have is that VTEC isn't hooked up yet (power tends to die out past about 5500), and my fuel pump is flowing a little too much fuel and floods the carbs sometimes...

I have a VTEC controller and a Fuel pressure regulator to fix both those issues, problem is that I don't know where the hell to wire in the RPM signal for the VTEC controller... I've searched and searched, and even though I have an ECU pinout diagram now, I still don't know where to wire it in... my friend suggested wiring it into the dash, but I don't know where the RPM signal wire for the dash is either...

ECU Pinout:


odb0 yeah?

Speed sensor B16 Yellow?

http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/2992/sweetkw9.png

[Lukezen27]

OK Tristan

I've been researching up on this little issue and it seems the 1989-91 Civics don't actually have a RPM wire...
They're cable driven all the way from Transmission to cluster
Gauge Assembly (http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9356/speedometerdrivengearastt0.gif)
Speed Sensor (VSS) location on the trany (http://img390.imageshack.us/img390/284/speedpulsertestingzm4.jpg)
Speed Sensor (VSS) cable (http://img348.imageshack.us/img348/6075/speedocable0028ha.jpg)

Is your Speedo working after the conversion?
Now you've got the D16Y1 your Transmissions now got a electronic VSS on the box?

cable To electronic Vehicle Speed Sensor convert (http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=60163) might help

Enjoy

[A-man]

go buy those cheap shift lights and wire the vtec solenoid to the light.

this will engage vtec. this should be plug and play. i was going to do this until my friend decided to sell the car.

i thought the AFR's on a eg sohc vtec would have been ok.

[Webby_roller]

go buy those cheap shift lights and wire the vtec solenoid to the light.

this will engage vtec. this should be plug and play. i was going to do this until my friend decided to sell the car.

i thought the AFR's on a eg sohc vtec would have been ok.

I did this... It worked on my car... although it was too eratic... if first or second it would take too long to activate the solenoid because the revs were rising too quickly... I searched around for ages and ended up finding a cluster out of a vtec crx... they are cable driven but have an electronic VSS in the cluster which is then wired to the ECU... did this and never had problems with it again.