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View Full Version : B18C EK1 swap. No fuel, no spark.



FAITHLESS
27-07-2012, 09:32 PM
Hey guys,

Been having a bit of trouble trying to get my JDM B18C running. I have no fuel and no spark.
The confusing thing is that I had fuel and spark for a while. Had a major fuel leak at the fuel pressure regulator, fixed that, checked for spark at cylinder one. Had that. Cranked the engine for a while and ran out of battery. After recharging it I could not hear the fuel priming before cranking and had no spark once again.
I'm quite positive that these two problems relate to one source.
Could it be a fuse? (have visually inspected them all)
Could it be the main relay?
I made up my own transmission ground from subwoofer wiring and haven't yet tested for continuity.
I'm running the P72 OBD2A ECU with a D16Y8 loom with primary O2 sensor, knock sensor, and VTPS wired in. I don't have the IAT, VSS, IAB, PSPS, VTS or oil pressure switch plugged in yet.

Any help would be awesome.

MRJDM
27-07-2012, 11:55 PM
id say its your main Relay

have a listen to it when u turn it to on position (acc)
can you hear a click if not there a problem?
Google what it looks like.

Have you checked you earthpoints
-Rocket cover (passanger side) to body/mount
-harness earth to the thermostat
-your earth to you gearbox to cad body.
-Battery negative to body.

Make sure all these have good conection and dont have rust or anything not letting the have a good ground

Also check your fuses with a test light on either side of the fuse the two little.metail bits in between the fuse numbers make sure you trst light lights up on both sides.

Check your fuses in the engine bay compartment as well the especially the ones with the clear wimdows on the that are held in by screws. again touch either side of the screw with the test light to check for power.


You should be able to diagnose this quickly.

FAITHLESS
28-07-2012, 12:10 AM
No I can't hear the click. Yes all grounds are there.
I'd say it has to be the main relay It's just a bit strange that it was working fine before the swap.
I get no initial CEL when turning ignition on so I'm assuming power isn't getting to the ECU which would most likely be the main relay. I know in EG's, fuse 24 in the dash fuse box would effect both fuel and spark. Wondering what fuse that is in an EK as I can't seem to find it.
Anyway I'll test all fuses.

dorikin
28-07-2012, 12:13 AM
What have you done to the D16Y8 loom so far?

FAITHLESS
28-07-2012, 12:24 AM
What have you done to the D16Y8 loom so far?

I've spliced injectors, alternator (4 wire to 3 wire), IACV (3 wire to 2 wire) to OBD1. I've wired to the ECU plugs primary O2 sensor, knock sensor and VTPS.

dorikin
28-07-2012, 12:28 AM
What about distributor, wasn't that plug different?

FAITHLESS
28-07-2012, 12:28 AM
There's a few reasons why I don't have some wiring connected up. Is any of the wiring I don't have connected essential to running the engine?

FAITHLESS
28-07-2012, 12:29 AM
What about distributor, wasn't that plug different?

Oh yes sorry and distributor spliced to OBD1.

dorikin
28-07-2012, 12:30 AM
Should still turn on without those sensors (in your first post)

FAITHLESS
28-07-2012, 12:39 AM
No worries I'll check fuses and replace the main relay. Thanks.

dorikin
28-07-2012, 12:42 AM
Yeh it sounds like a Main Relay problem, check Fuse 31 under the dash (7.5 A) - ECM/PCM, PGM-FI Main Relay

Failing that remove the main relay and test it

FAITHLESS
28-07-2012, 12:51 AM
Great that's the info I was after. Thanks again!

IV73CI
28-07-2012, 01:40 AM
^^main relay..

Had same symptoms on an old bseries conversion..
Turns out the main relay was fcked and locked up/burnt coil.

DriftKnightX
28-07-2012, 04:17 AM
had the same problem here, main relay problems are common sadly...

FAITHLESS
31-07-2012, 11:21 PM
The problem turn out to be the thermostat ground. It wasn't torqued down tight enough.

I however have a new problem. I only have spark when turning the ignition on and off at the plug that the distributor rotor has stopped on.
I have no spark when turning the engine over.
I intend to do a full check on the coil and ICM but it's very difficult to remove the bolt that holds the rotor due to the splash shield.
Is there anything other than the distributor, coil and ICM that might be causing this problem?

SU-WOOP
31-07-2012, 11:44 PM
check power to the coil whilst cranking even hard wire it to the battery if this solves the issue trace from the ignition switch to the fusebox and poor earth is a common casue

FAITHLESS
01-08-2012, 12:05 AM
check power to the coil whilst cranking even hard wire it to the battery if this solves the issue trace from the ignition switch to the fusebox and poor earth is a common casue

Thanks alot buddy will do.