View Full Version : engine mounts
sammutn90
28-07-2012, 04:27 PM
hi
I was just checking my engine mounts and i have seen that the rear mount is moving side to side which moves the motor back not sure if this is normal even when i drive u can hear the mount rubbing on the subframe making a crappy noise.
so should i just replace the rear mount or replace all three? and what advice for taking out the rear mount
thanks
DLO01
28-07-2012, 04:34 PM
Best case, I'd replace all of them, get it all out of the way. You've also got 2 torque mounts up front, so total of 5 mounts.
Worse case. If its just the rear that is screwed, just replace it. But 'make sure' all the other mounts are ok. Not sagging, no cracks, looking sound.
IV73CI
28-07-2012, 04:35 PM
Inspect the other mounts and see if they need replacing.
Its cheap nowadays to buy a set of billet mounts and this way u have peace of mind knowing all mounts are new.
sammutn90
28-07-2012, 05:30 PM
do i have to replace the torque mounts if i change all three mounts?
ceekay101
28-07-2012, 06:54 PM
May aswell do all 3. The side mounts are the easiest, the rear mounts the worst to get to.
IV73CI
28-07-2012, 07:32 PM
do i have to replace the torque mounts if i change all three mounts?
Its wise and peace of mind if u do, otherwise if its still good just sikaflex it so its firm just like your new ones.
sammutn90
29-07-2012, 05:10 PM
yeah i was looking at my rear mount thinking of how the hell do i get to that mount haha?
dougie_504
29-07-2012, 08:03 PM
Massive PITA to get to mate. I'd just consider the sikaflex option mentioned or the polyurethane. Have seen both used effectively in EF8's. I think the sikaflex would be easier and less likely to give you nasty vibrations.
sammutn90
30-07-2012, 08:38 PM
the vibrations doesnt worry me i only getting street use only not racing haha then my whole dashboard would fall apart :/
and is there any tips on that rear mount how to remove it
thanks
dougie_504
31-07-2012, 12:03 PM
Vibrations will piss you off on the street more mate, makes daily driving uncomfortable. Track isn't really a big deal, don't notice it.
soisyamum
06-08-2012, 02:22 PM
Have you done your mounts Sammutn90 ? I just put Hasport 88a mounts in, the rear one was a bitch, You need to remove 2 19mm bolts from the undernearth of the car which hold an L shaped bracket onto the rear mount, then there is 2 17mm bolts one against the engine and the other thru the rear mount. then there are 3 bolts on the rear mount which hold it against the chassis, 2 against the fire wall, and 1 on the engine side. all these bolts are hard to get to. I suggest using a spanner for the 19mm ones and sockets with long extensions for the others. because my model has ABS it made it a little harder to get to that rear mount from the top. but what I did to help create some space was remove the side mounts and the small mount on the front underneath which holds onto the gear box so I could move the engine up and "rotate" it slightly to get in there. hardest part was aligning all the mounts again.
Its such a PITA but driving is so much better now, changing gears makes me wanna jizz now, and holding power around corners is smother.
sammutn90
07-08-2012, 04:15 PM
nah not yet man thanks for that addvice cannot wait untill i feel the differents in gear changing and power
soisyamum
07-08-2012, 04:20 PM
One thing i've noticed alot better is handling believe it or not. but my old mounts were completely gone.
sammutn90
07-08-2012, 04:22 PM
haha so u can feel the differents straight away what mounts did u get?
soisyamum
07-08-2012, 04:29 PM
I put hasport 88A's in. Before with the worn mounts when reversing you could feel the engine "lift up and forward" and when "tapping" the accelerator when driving I could feel the engine move and you could feel it in the gear stick to, Also when concerning hard from left to right ect you could feel a weight shift at the front or when going fast over a bumpy road things just didnt feel solid.
Now its simply just awesome, I've always done the mounts on all my cars, FWD need to have strong mounts if your gonna drive hard. only downside is my entire car rattles and shakes like crazy, but hey its worth it.
sammutn90
07-08-2012, 07:19 PM
yeh my car does the same thing when u hit the acelerator on and off u can hear the motor moving badly and some time its gets stuck trying to put it in gear also?
but yeh im gunna get good one i buying hasport street 60a mounts cause its a daily and i sometimes go to the track or drags
aurnob88
08-08-2012, 01:04 AM
replace rear and torques
soisyamum
08-08-2012, 10:02 AM
Sorry to slightly high-jack your thread but does anyone know where to buy more solid torque mounts ? I want to replace them also, but the Hasport intructions say the torque mounts can be removed for a "cleaner" look.
DLO01
09-08-2012, 12:50 PM
They remove them for exactly that (good excuse by Hasport cause they don't make them): They clean up the engine bay looks a little by deleting them. The engine just depends on the 3x engine mounts then. A lot of people remove the torque mounts after they do a engine conversion as well, for the same reason. Removing them just puts extra pressure on the other mounts, especially the rear mount when accelerating and under load as the engine wants to rotate.
The torque mounts do exactly that, they are right out front of the engine and they limit the amount of engine rotation/torque.
Avid do solid rubber torque mounts for your DC2. So look them up.
aurnob88
18-08-2012, 08:29 PM
End up doing it op?
Vtechies
27-08-2012, 03:16 PM
just wondering if you cant do this all by yourself, how much would it cost to get a mechanic to do it? this is including the mechanic buying the mounts, labor etc. would this be a days job or longer? thanks
dougie_504
27-08-2012, 03:37 PM
Probably $600-1000
dougie_504
27-08-2012, 03:38 PM
^
For all mounts
ceekay101
27-08-2012, 05:48 PM
My mate said he was quoted max 10 hours labour for his dc5. I did it for him on the ground in less that includes wasted tIme due to receiving the wrong rear mount.
aurnob88
27-08-2012, 06:17 PM
10hrs? Really wtf
ceekay101
27-08-2012, 07:35 PM
Yeh apparently... because in k series case the headers face backwards and are in the way. Luckily I could just push them to the side and didn't have to fully remove them. I did say max though. They gave him a max labor time and would adjust accordingly, was a random mechanic shop don't think they do many Hondas.
Lepperfish
04-09-2012, 03:50 AM
My DC2R mounts were ****ed. Well it was the rear one that holds onto the gearbox and engine. The mount was totally floating around in the casing. My car would crunch going into 5th gear, stall and clunk like a mofo between gear changes.. I went for the five piece hard race kit. Sourced them from JDM yard and got my mechanics to install them and yeah the labour was $500.
Replacing my engine mounts with stiffer ones has been the best money I have ever spent on my car. I wish I went stiffer like a hasport full urethane kit. Maybe next time..
The car feels so much better, the vibrations are cool and not bothersome at all.. Plus they settle down to be almost like OEM after the car has warmed up..
aurnob88
04-09-2012, 11:36 PM
Fuark u guys got hook up with ozhonda mechanics. They typically charge 200 for a dc2 job
ceekay101
05-09-2012, 11:19 PM
Cash jobs are cheaper as your only really paying for the persons time it doesn't included business expenses like insurance brand name etc. So if a business charges 100 per hour the actual mechanic only takes like 20/30 an hour himself. So he just charges abit more and everyone's happy. Just using a real example: Bmw Sydney (rushcutters bay) charge 240 an hour. That doesn't mean the mechanics are on 240 an hour...
aurnob88
06-09-2012, 12:32 AM
For sure
But if u got the time and want some experience as well backyard jobs are pretty sick.
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