time to change brake pads?

[euro1603]

Checking the brake pads yesterday, the rear had about 50mm and the front about 80mm, i thought the fronts would have worn down quicker. My honda friend mechanic did worn me about the cl9 being notorious on the rear pads ? anyone agree ? also is it time to change the rear ? i generally go with the sound test, the brakes will tell you when to change.. what is the general thickness of new brake pads..

[aaronng]

New pads have roughly 10mm of material.

[Fredoops]

Checking the brake pads yesterday, the rear had about 50mm and the front about 80mm, i thought the fronts would have worn down quicker. My honda friend mechanic did worn me about the cl9 being notorious on the rear pads ? anyone agree ? also is it time to change the rear ? i generally go with the sound test, the brakes will tell you when to change.. what is the general thickness of new brake pads..

Both Euro's AND accords have issues with rear pads wearing at a very fast rate.

it's a known issue and there were recalls (and lawsuits) in the USA regarding this problem.

my suggestion is to replace the rear pads with ceramic pads for longevity.

[aaronng]

Both Euro's AND accords have issues with rear pads wearing at a very fast rate.

it's a known issue and there were recalls (and lawsuits) in the USA regarding this problem.

my suggestion is to replace the rear pads with ceramic pads for longevity.
From what I've seen, it comes from the hand brake cable being adjusted to be too tight. The Euro (CL9) is supposed to have 5-7 clicks, with 5 clicks actually being a bit too tight (I had 5 clicks and my rears were smoking after a drive on the freeway!). Best is to have 6 clicks.

When you service your car at the dealership, they always adjust the cable to be tighter, and you can notice it after a drive where you have not used the brakes much but the rear rotors are too hot to touch because the pads are actually still in contact with the rotor eventhough the hand brake lever is all the way down.

Same thing applies when one replaces the rear brake pads. They have to readjust the hand brake cable so that the additional pad thickness is compensated for.

[power_of_dreams]

I changed my rears to hawks, they are too abrasive and have eaten my rotors.

Will go back to OEM next time.

[Fredoops]

I changed my rears to hawks, they are too abrasive and have eaten my rotors.

Will go back to OEM next time.

Get bendix or supercheap posiquiet then.

You really have no need to pay $100+ for oems

[power_of_dreams]

Get bendix or supercheap posiquiet then.

You really have no need to pay $100+ for oems

I guess it depends what rotors I get as well.

[aaronng]

I changed my rears to hawks, they are too abrasive and have eaten my rotors.

Will go back to OEM next time.

Hawk HPS or the next one up is too aggressive. I used Hawk Ceramics, and they were more gentle than stock. The downside was that initial bite was weaker than stock. However total braking force felt much stronger than stock.

[Fredoops]

Hawk HPS or the next one up is too aggressive. I used Hawk Ceramics, and they were more gentle than stock. The downside was that initial bite was weaker than stock. However total braking force felt much stronger than stock.
it needs to warm up like all ceramics i think

[aaronng]

it needs to warm up like all ceramics i think

It's not a true ceramic. It just has ceramic particles in it. Even when warmed up, the initial bite is not as good as OEM. I even tried overheating it and it never improved.

[kristrifo]

i think my rear brake pads got replaced around 50k km

i got 88k km on the car now and still using the original front pads, quite surprised tbh, considering i have a lead foot

...read somewhere here that the oem pads are very good and its not recommended to go for cheap aftermarkets?

also curious what are good aftermarket pads for the cl9?

i gotta change my discs though, i get violent steering wheel shaking about 1/4 way into the brake peddle

[aaronng]

Stock Euro pads are shit...... When pressed against a hot rotor, they leave deposits on the rotor, giving you a feeling of brake shudder.

[rambohung]

Just like u said it give a shudder on the rotor, have to machine it & change pad to get rid of it. Aaronng, which pad do u suggest that will be good not just for "blist" drive even works well on daily drive but not too harsh on the rotor?

[aaronng]

Just like u said it give a shudder on the rotor, have to machine it & change pad to get rid of it. Aaronng, which pad do u suggest that will be good not just for "blist" drive even works well on daily drive but not too harsh on the rotor?
You don't have to machine it if the shudder comes from the brake deposits. I just used 80-120 grit sandpaper and give both sides of the rotor a good sanding. Then the aftermarket brake pads will do the rest of the work wearing down any remaining deposits on the rotors after a few weeks.

Most of the popular branded street pads are good. I've used Hawk Ceramic which is a pure street pad. Initial bite was slightly weaker but total braking power is still better than stock. They were gentle on the rotors and the brake dust is brown/gray in colour so it looks a little less obvious compared to black dust.

Now I'm using Project Mu NR (sporty street pads). Heaps of dust which is black in colour, but has good initial bite, very good braking force and high temperature resistance. Haven't driven enough kms to tell if they are harsh on the rotors, but I was told that NR was much gentler compared to NS.

[euro1603]

replace the rear brake pads yesterday, install was straight forward. Afterwards attempted to readjust the handbrake to compensate for the thicker new pads.. followed the service manual to adjust the handbrake, but even adjusting the adjustment nut to max in terms of losening the real pad are still scrapping the rotors. It should only touch after one click... is this a known problem, or have i miss something..