JVC Amp or Other Recommendations?

[Honda]

Has anyone has experience with this amp? JVC KS-AX5102
http://www.jvc.com.au/car-av/amplifiers/ks-ax5102

I've also been looking at jaycar response 150RMS- but it seems there are mixed reviews going around :confused:

I'm planning to get a 2ch amp.
- 4ohm @ 100-150 RMS at each channel (set to 80RMS)

It will be used to run Morel Maximo Coaxials, their specs are:
- 4ohm @ 80RMS
- Peak 160W
- 55-22,000Hz

I'll be open to any recommendations ;)

[blabla]

Has anyone has experience with this amp? JVC KS-AX5102
http://www.jvc.com.au/car-av/amplifiers/ks-ax5102

I've also been looking at jaycar response 150RMS- but it seems there are mixed reviews going around :confused:

I'm planning to get a 2ch amp.
- 4ohm @ 100-150 RMS at each channel (set to 80RMS)

It will be used to run Morel Maximo Coaxials, their specs are:
- 4ohm @ 80RMS
- Peak 160W
- 55-22,000Hz

I'll be open to any recommendations ;)

look at hertz, audison, focal, infinity, Jl audio, polk even alpine brands like that to run ur morels you want a good quality amp. low as possible distortion rate
http://www.dsire4sound.com.au/index.php/shop-online-now?page=shop.product_details&product_id=363&flypage=flypage.tpl&pop=0

Im actually considering the solid 4 for the misses car only running 6.5 splits and 6.5 2 ways AND because of the hi/low feature with an automatic signal detection

[Honda]

http://www.dsire4sound.com.au/index.php/shop-online-now?page=shop.product_details&product_id=363&flypage=flypage.tpl&pop=0


The Focal 2 Amp is 75W @ 4ohms however, the morels are good at 80rms and I think its potentially can go higher

Running the Focal 2 at full 75W, wouldn't that strain the amp?

[blabla]

The Focal 2 Amp is 75W @ 4ohms however, the morels are good at 80rms and I think its potentially can go higher

Running the Focal 2 at full 75W, wouldn't that strain the amp?

Technically. This is just an example of a better quality amp. The lower the distortion rate is the cleaner the signal is. Remember a lot of the rating are at 14.4 volts the car runs approx at 13.xx volts. Just look into better amps are u after sq or SPL?

[Honda]

Technically. This is just an example of a better quality amp. The lower the distortion rate is the cleaner the signal is. Remember a lot of the rating are at 14.4 volts the car runs approx at 13.xx volts. Just look into better amps are u after sq or SPL?

14.4 volts the car runs approx at 13.xx volts- Would that mean the battery isn't capable to run that amp?

I think SQ. I want strong bass while maintaining its quality.

Sorry if they are noob questions, I'm just new with the terms and all

[TbM]

whats your budget?

[NightKids]

Great choice of components, seems like you've done your research.

JVC amps on the other hand... not so good. Audison gets my vote

[Honda]

whats your budget?

For the amp, I would like to spend around the 200 mark because I'll have to spend another 50-100 on a wiring kit for installation.

But I'm willing to stretch the 200 budget for the amp if there are noticeable benefits from it.

[blabla]

Ur going to need to stretch ur budget. I suggest you buy a 4 channel n bridge it. Min 50-75wrms x4.

[Honda]

Yeah I guess I'm thinking of sourcing products from USA or something.

If the amp was to have a RRP I would say around the 200-350 AUD mark but you know you can always get it cheaper elsewhere, if research is done.

Just some noob questios-
How does an amp work? for example, is it similar to the way the HU works? set the bass boost, voltage etc?
When the amp is installed, I'll have to do those settings manually on the amp right or is it still done on the HU as normal?
I ask because I really like the settings on the HU at the moment with the lame stock speakers lol

I don't want the best of the best. Just want something decent to power the Maximo without overheating as I don't want them to run on the HU.
Amps are so expensive!!

Maybe it will be good if you can give me decent examples of a 200 and 300 amp if you were to choose. Then I could understand the way you guys think and it gives me some understanding of the pros and cons of each.

[EKVTIR-T]

Jaycar

[Honda]

I have considered jaycar response 4ohms @150rms x 2ch for $150~. After doing some research, it seems it is commonly used to power subwoofers as they provide strong power but lack quality (subs don't need much quality as its just doofdoof lol).

I'm not an expert but putting one thing with another, I don't think it is BEST suited towards front speakers at the price range. I could probably add another 50-100 or so to sacrifice watts with quality but with my limited knowledge, its hard to find the right one.

But I'm putting jaycar response in high regard as a very good budget amp.

[blabla]

http://www.soundmaster.com.au/Pioneer-GM-D9500F-800Watt-Class-FD-4-Channel-Amplifier/GMD9500F/

if you want a bigger amp
http://www.soundmaster.com.au/Soundstream-STL4500-4-Channel-Amplifier/STL4500/

but remembering that rms will drop as the rating are set at 14.4volts
this will be great for those speakers

[blabla]

14.4 volts the car runs approx at 13.xx volts- Would that mean the battery isn't capable to run that amp?

I think SQ. I want strong bass while maintaining its quality.

Sorry if they are noob questions, I'm just new with the terms and all

Not that it cant handle it if you are wanting for it to run at the 14.4 you will need a cap as well unnecessary money being spent.

[Drifter995]

I don't see why the rms will drop? The alternator will put out 14.4 volts... or should. so, when the car is going, you should be able to tap into all the power quoted.
Also, you don't need a cap to keep it at 14.4 volts... Caps are band-aids. Good wiring should get you 14.4volt.

[Honda]

The Pioneer GM-D9500F and Soundstream STL4500 can go for around the 200 shipped from the usa (quite decent). But not sure about those brands and the way they produce amps..

The soundstream amp provides:
- 4 ohms: 80 watts x 4 channel

In this situation, it would be "ideal" to bridge the channels together otherwise the other 2 channels will be made redundant. However, bridging the two channels together is quite strong 90Watts over what my speakers can handle.

I read somewhere that is is not recommended to get an amp that produces more watts than max powering watts on the speaker because IF something goes wrong, it can damage everything. What are your thoughts on it?

[blabla]

I'm running this amp bridged

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9226_Panasonic-CY-PA4003U.html

With these splits

http://www.ryda.com.au/Philips-CSP650-6-5-Component-Speakers-p/csp650.htm

One thing to remember is warranty.

[blabla]

I don't see why the rms will drop? The alternator will put out 14.4 volts... or should. so, when the car is going, you should be able to tap into all the power quoted.
Also, you don't need a cap to keep it at 14.4 volts... Caps are band-aids. Good wiring should get you 14.4volt.

I have asked about it and that is what I was told I was also told to run a higher voltage u start changing alternators.

[TbM]

Great choice of components, seems like you've done your research.

JVC amps on the other hand... not so good. Audison gets my vote
audison doesnt do amps that cheap with 2 x 80 rms do they?



Just some noob questios-
How does an amp work? for example, is it similar to the way the HU works? set the bass boost, voltage etc?
When the amp is installed, I'll have to do those settings manually on the amp right or is it still done on the HU as normal?
I ask because I really like the settings on the HU at the moment with the lame stock speakers lol

with no subwoofer the only thing you will need to set on the amp is the gain, the headunit will control the tuning.



I don't see why the rms will drop? The alternator will put out 14.4 volts... or should. so, when the car is going, you should be able to tap into all the power quoted.
Also, you don't need a cap to keep it at 14.4 volts... Caps are band-aids. Good wiring should get you 14.4volt.
you are correct sir, although in my experience alternators will put out between 13.8v - 14.4v depending on alternator condition and you will have a vdroop, iirc mines >0.1V. even if your running at 13.8V the difference in watts is sweet fuk all.



Not that it cant handle it if you are wanting for it to run at the 14.4 you will need a cap as well unnecessary money being spent.

I have asked about it and that is what I was told I was also told to run a higher voltage u start changing alternators.
Da fuk did i just read? you either listened to an "audio expert" from one of the main retailers or an ill informed mate. FYI you better off getting audio advice from a brick wall then a salesman at those major retailers.





In this situation, it would be "ideal" to bridge the channels together otherwise the other 2 channels will be made redundant. However, bridging the two channels together is quite strong 90Watts over what my speakers can handle.

I read somewhere that is is not recommended to get an amp that produces more watts than max powering watts on the speaker because IF something goes wrong, it can damage everything. What are your thoughts on it?

Overpowering a speaker is better than underpowering it, just make sure to keep the gain down or you risk burning out the speaker. for example my front home theatre speakers are rated at 175 rms but they are fed 350 rms and have been going strong for 4+ years.

[blabla]

Ok how old is the car?

I've seen the lancer before the new shape only produce 13.3-13.8 volts. Advice is hard to come buy sometimes and most of the time its the main retailers is who is willing to give some sort of info weather correct or incorrect.

[TbM]

Ok how old is the car?

I've seen the lancer before the new shape only produce 13.3-13.8 volts. Advice is hard to come buy sometimes and most of the time its the main retailers is who is willing to give some sort of info weather correct or incorrect.

pretty sure hes got a 98 ek1.

if my car was reading in the low 13's id look at the alternator and grounding points, even my old commadore that i got as my first car read 13.8v at idle.

the advise salesmen give you is often to make more sales rather than teach you more about what they are selling, specialty stores often have better salesmen than the main retailers. If you would like to know more about car audio the MEA forums are a good place to learn.

[blabla]

Alternator reading can change depending on condition and age which you are right, but a new car will more then likely produce the correct voltage eg my misses Mazda 3 diesel should instantly produce the 14.4 votls due to the size of the alternator.

[Honda]

Conclusion? Do i need to worry about changing battery or anything?

I have a 98 civic gli ek1 as TbM said-

It is nice to know that I only need to set the gain on the amp and that's it! I was worried about tuning it correctly

[blabla]

just check health of alternator (local auto electrician can do it) and make sure your battery is in good condition.

[TbM]

Conclusion? Do i need to worry about changing battery or anything?

I have a 98 civic gli ek1 as TbM said-

It is nice to know that I only need to set the gain on the amp and that's it! I was worried about tuning it correctly
I wouldn't bother, the ammount of power will be using is very low so shouldn't bother the electrical system at all. if you get headlights dimming on strong bass then I might look at it. if you have a multimeter its easy to do some basic checks.

just check health of alternator (local auto electrician can do it) and make sure your battery is in good condition.

how much would an auto electrician charge to check the alt?

[blabla]

I wouldn't bother, the ammount of power will be using is very low so shouldn't bother the electrical system at all. if you get headlights dimming on strong bass then I might look at it. if you have a multimeter its easy to do some basic checks.


how much would an auto electrician charge to check the alt?

I have no idea but it shouldnt be heaps i agree with you only do it if the above is happens. It might be as simple as using multimeter.

[happymatch]

I am using jvc amp for front and rear highs. Similar amp you mentioned. I found that the sq is not very impressive compared to other brands I had. Sort of regretting. Invest few more bucks.
With the alternator checking, it should be free. Just ask them you wanna check the battery and should only take ten seconds for them.

[Honda]

I am using jvc amp for front and rear highs. Similar amp you mentioned. I found that the sq is not very impressive compared to other brands I had. Sort of regretting. Invest few more bucks.
With the alternator checking, it should be free. Just ask them you wanna check the battery and should only take ten seconds for them.

What do you think of the GM-5500T? http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Series/GM-5500T

Similar price to the JVC

[blabla]

What do you think of the GM-5500T? http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Series/GM-5500T

Similar price to the JVC

Dont rush into buying an amp. What area are you from champ?

if you can go and see these guys

http://www.fhrxstudios.com/

[Honda]

Not rushing at all. Just asking questions for research. (OK maybe i am in a rush as I'm not too busy for the next week) :P

It seems like choosing the right amp is quite hard. Everyone is different, has their own preference, and different suggestions.

I think when people recommend an amp, they recommend it from their own past experiences with a particular amp or model. Which is what I'm looking for.
Some people may suggest the JVC amp, but from happymatch experience- it doesn't seem it is a good choice. From other people's experience we can learn.

Some people suggest amps by looking at the specs of the speakers then recommend a amp that matches the speakers. Which is quite risky (it will do the job but probably not the best job) unless the brand is well known such as Focal or Arc Audio.

I think I'll consider running the speakers of the HU when it arrives and decide on the amp later in the future. Been busy with alot of things. In the meantime, I could save up too :D

Hmmm......

[blabla]

go and see the guys at the place i mentioned you will be able to listen to a few amps they have there. they also supply the speakers u bought so they would be able to recommend and amp for you at ur budget whilst trying to achieve ur goals.

[Honda]

I've contacted them however being a high end store, they only have high end products on display.

[blabla]

Fairfield car audio, soundmaster granville, powersound mt druitt, deszir4sound Liverpool, lifestyle store north parra, kims car audio, ryda superstore petersham there's heap try these places lifestyle and fairfield car audio are little more to higher end but they can get in amps also.

[Honda]

I don't see why the rms will drop? The alternator will put out 14.4 volts... or should. so, when the car is going, you should be able to tap into all the power quoted.
Also, you don't need a cap to keep it at 14.4 volts... Caps are band-aids. Good wiring should get you 14.4volt.

Just back on to the discussion of alternators. Well, my one is the stock one that came with the car 98 ek1 gli.

I'm starting to be concerned about if my car is able to run the amp or not with amps needing 14.4V..

I don't want to spend extra hundreds for a new alternator to run an amp..... So I think I should do some research.

Do people usually replace their alternators when they run an amp?

How do I check with the voltmeter? What should I look for?

[Honda]

OK big noob here! I found a voltmeter around the house but not sure how to use it. Lost the manual aswell.

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg191/scaled.php?server=191&filename=imag0686u.jpg&res=landing

Questions on set up:
1. There a 3 holes, 1 black and 1 red wire. Which colour wire goes to which hole?

2. Where should the spinning thing be set to?

[Drifter995]

As a guess, where it is (voltage 20) and the wires would go black on bottom, and red in middle as a guess, judging by the top one saying '10a max' which the alternator puts out more of.
As for replacing alternator, not usually, unless they have lots of power in their system (like 2000wrms~)
I was checking my car the other day, and my power into the amp was 13.3volts. Which I know the car has trouble charging (it's a 35 year old car, it's expected)
And no, the amp doesn't NEED 14.4v to run, but that helps unlock it's full potential as far as I know.

As said earlier, Stock one will be fine for under 1800wrm~
I had an eg8 with stock everything, and that ran 1300wrms~ perfectly. No headlight dimming at all. I loved it. Just make sure you have the right sized power wire to the amps, and adequate earthing, and you'll be fine :D

[Honda]

I've tried:
Set to 20V, like the picture-
Top: Nothing
Middle hole: Red wire
Bottom hole: Black wire

I've placed the black to negative on the battery and red to positive on the battery. No reading was recorded on the volt meter. Tested on two cars.

Faulty voltmeter perhaps?

[TbM]

Multimeter is probably out of battery.

Dont get so hung up on the multimeter reading, your only running a 2 ch amp your not going to be stressing the charging system at all. I run stock alternator and 2 amps(800 rms) and have no problems, you will be running 150-250rms which is nothing to the charging system.


As drifter said amps dont need 14.4v to run, for example when my car is off and battery is at about 12.5V both my amps still play just fine.

[TbM]

Some people suggest amps by looking at the specs of the speakers then recommend a amp that matches the speakers. Which is quite risky (it will do the job but probably not the best job) unless the brand is well known such as Focal or Arc Audio.


What do you mean by this? recommending an amp without knowing the speakers is more risky imo.

you need to know what the speakers are to properly recommend an amp. Ie there is no point getting a 50rms amp for speakers rated at 125rms, you also need to know what ohm the speakers are to see if the amp is capable of driving the power at the ohms you need. Also knowing the price of the speakers helps as there is not a whole lot of point spending top $ for the best of the best when you have entry range speakers.

[Honda]

I meant something like matching a speaker with the amp- for example, the JVC is suited for the speakers but may not be the best choice (within price range)

But if someone had experience with a specific amp with a similar set of speakers (I assumed that the specs were known)- then I think the results will be better.
Example: People changed amps because the first one wasn't good then recommend the second one. I had the JVC X but changed to pioneer Y as it sounded better so I recommend Pioneer Y.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that reviews come from experience.
Good review usually means good product and bad reviews usually means bad product O_O

Edit:
Oh by the way, some store suggested the JVC amp. So I think they matched the speakers with amp. Maybe that woulda made more sense lol.. Sorry for the confusion!
So, that's why this thread was made by me. I wanted someone who had experience to give me a review on it :)

[Honda]

On another note!

How did you feed the speaker cable between the door? Did you remove the fender or/and door?

[TbM]

On another note!

How did you feed the speaker cable between the door? Did you remove the fender or/and door?

i pulled the pins out of the door hinges then removed the doors.i drilled a hole through the plug then fed the wiring through, i think ive got some pics somewhere ill see if i can find them tonight.

[Honda]

Awesome! How many screws are there to take out the door? I had a look this afternoon and there is quite a fair few.

[TbM]

Awesome! How many screws are there to take out the door? I had a look this afternoon and there is quite a fair few.

2 pins per door and it comes off

Edit: forgot there is one bolt to remove too.

Ive pm'ed you some pics but you may just find it easier to remove the fender or try and drill with the door inplace.

[Honda]

Thanks! I saw the PM.

There is a youtube video that removed the fender: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=teGKfcDPwik

Is this the basic drilling idea that you accomplished? It seems care should be taken when drilling the hole on the door side as there as you might hit a wire or something (according to the video desc).

[TbM]

yeh thats pretty much it but i pulled the door off by the pins so i didnt have to align anything, i also drilled my holes cleanly.

You can unhook that plug from the door side then if you have your door trim off you can pull it back into the door and out through a service hole to give you better acesss to it, that way you can see the back of the plug and aviod drilling any wires.

the plugs are covered in what i assume is dielectric grease which is really annoying to deal with, either wear gloves or prepare for it to get messy lol.

[Honda]

Such a tough task of installing a system! Running down on the things I need to do.
- Take down both doors trims, cut the plastic basket out
- Take out both fenders and possibly front bumper to access the plugs + cut it correctly and carefully
- Strip out the interior to run the cables on both sides
- Take out back seats to run the cables
- Take the whole front dash thing out and hook up the cables ( BY THE WAY, how do you hook up the remote cable)
- Crawl around to find a grommet? To feed power cable-
- OMG it just keeps adding on...

[Honda]

or try and drill with the door inplace.

Is it possible to remove the plug with the door in place?

[TbM]

Such a tough task of installing a system! Running down on the things I need to do.
- Take down both doors trims, cut the plastic basket out
- Take out both fenders and possibly front bumper to access the plugs + cut it correctly and carefully
- Strip out the interior to run the cables on both sides
- Take out back seats to run the cables
- Take the whole front dash thing out and hook up the cables ( BY THE WAY, how do you hook up the remote cable)
- Crawl around to find a grommet? To feed power cable-
- OMG it just keeps adding on...

yeh man theres a bit to do but after you done a few stereos its gets alot easier, id offer to give you a hand but your a bit far away iirc. you dont need to completely remove the dash, you only need to remove the centre console bit, if you follow my led conversion DIY up to the headunit removing part and ignoreing the cluster removing parts it will show you how to remove the parts you need to.

the remote cable connects from the back of the headunits harness to a small gauge wire that runs to the remote terminal on your amp, i usualy run this wire next to my power cable.

if you have trouble finding a grommet i can take a pic of where i ran mine.

[TbM]

Is it possible to remove the plug with the door in place?

I couldnt but if you have small hands you might be able to, i had to pull the door off then unclip the plug, if you undo that door stopper you can open the door more and see if you can get in there and unclip it.

[Honda]

yeh man theres a bit to do but after you done a few stereos its gets alot easier, id offer to give you a hand but your a bit far away iirc. you dont need to completely remove the dash, you only need to remove the centre console bit, if you follow my led conversion DIY up to the headunit removing part and ignoreing the cluster removing parts it will show you how to remove the parts you need to.

the remote cable connects from the back of the headunits harness to a small gauge wire that runs to the remote terminal on your amp, i usualy run this wire next to my power cable.

if you have trouble finding a grommet i can take a pic of where i ran mine.

Yes! I'm from NSW aha. ROAD TRIP!!

Do you have a link to it? I've tried searching but no match.
Could you explain more about the remote cable on the headunit side? Do I have to cut a cable + solder (which colour if so)? Or should there be a remote terminal on the HU that I can plug into?
I saw some youtube video where some guy connected it to the fuse of the radio lol

I think there is a grommet behind the battery but don't want to disassemble everything yet until my amp kit comes. Did you use a grommet with existing cables?

[TbM]

Yes! I'm from NSW aha. ROAD TRIP!!

Do you have a link to it? I've tried searching but no match.
Could you explain more about the remote cable on the headunit side? Do I have to cut a cable + solder (which colour if so)? Or should there be a remote terminal on the HU that I can plug into?
I saw some youtube video where some guy connected it to the fuse of the radio lol

I think there is a grommet behind the battery but don't want to disassemble everything yet until my amp kit comes. Did you use a grommet with existing cables?

ill pm you a link when I finish work.

Yeh you have to solder the remote wire, should be blue wire on most aftermarket headunits.

I used that grommet near the battery, I couldn't use a grommet with cables as I'm using 0 gauge so it wouldn't fit with other wires. ill add a pic when I'm home so you can see.


Edit: pic added, its the grommet just below the battery(black thing in pic)

http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j480/tbmindustrys2/IMAG0209.jpg

[Honda]

Awesome! I think I've spotted that one before :)

I was cutting out the plastic door trim yesterday and realised that I need to cut out the screw holes in order to fit in the speakers. I remember you quoting IIRC that you shouldn't cut out the screw holes because that is what mounts the door trim to the metal door (so it doesn't rattle) and then suggested to use the factory screw holes to mount the spacers but I think I ran into a issue there.

http://imageshack.us/a/img809/254/imag0703e.jpg"]http://imageshack.us/a/img809/254/imag0703e.jpg

I need to cut the green area in order to fit the speakers in but didn't want to go ahead as it will mean that the 3 screw holes will be gone (black circle).

I think this will be OK as the spacer will hold the speaker and not the (black circle) anymore.

But I don't think its possible to do:
door trim (bigger uncoloured hole) --> spacer --> factory holes.

I think I would have to do:
spacer --> drill into metal door
AND
door trim --> factory hole as normal

By the way, the spacers I purchased were:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-1-2-6-5-165mm-MDF-Speaker-Spacers-16mm-Depth-6-5-inch-/150835867939?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231e84b123

I hope I'm making sense!

EDIT/UPDATE:
I couldn't find a way around not removing the green side, so byebye green circle + screw things! I got a feeling my spacer that I bought won't be able to fit due to the big driver thing.

My temporary installment! I'll be cutting it off again if my spacer are the right size + enough depth and mount it on the metal. (currently temporarily mounted to the door, AT LAST! WOOOOOOO)

http://imageshack.us/a/img825/5451/imag0705a.jpg

Amp kit + spacer should be received early this week.

Amp is probably going to come either late this week or early next week.

So excited!

Issue for the day:
- Unable to undo one of the screw behind the door handle, so unable to take the door trim out on the other side. Had to go with extraction kit as last resort-
- I've tried to drill a hole and use an extacror kit but only good results were broken drill bits lol (i think i need the strong drill bits made for metal). I'll be bringing it to a place tomorrow as they have the right tools to do it. Otherwise, if they cant remove it- I'll be drilling the whole head off.
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg94/scaled.php?server=94&filename=afafs.jpg&res=landing

[blabla]

which amp?

[Honda]

which amp?

Eclipse XA2000 :)

[Honda]

tbM !!!! is there a way to remove the side interior doors without removing the WHOLE interior?

This is where I am up to:
http://imageshack.us/a/img441/9053/imag0712q.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img41/6356/imag0714l.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img685/6882/imag0719k.jpg
I removed the grommet (behind the battery like yours) and there is white fluff, seems like carpet. How should I go about this? Is it safe to drill a hole directly? should I stab it with a knife or something? lol

http://imageshack.us/a/img405/2408/imag0720r.jpg

[TbM]

fuk just a few questions lol

-I cut heaps out of my door panel and used the factory screw points to mount the spacer. http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j480/tbmindustrys2/IMAG0479.jpg

-that ebay spacer is 16mm i used a 25mm one, you may have clearence issues depending on how deep your coaxial speaker is.

-Im not sure about that side trim sorry i just pulled out the whole interior, its easier to run the cables with nothing in the car, doesnt take long to completely strip out an ek

- the grommet is above the one you have an arrow pointing to, its behind the hvac blower but once you have a bit of cable pushed through you will be able to pull it through

-i just jammed my finger in there a bit and pulled out a bit of fluff and jammed the cable through, you have to push it down not straight through if you know what i mean.

[Honda]

THE WHOLE INTERIOR NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! It goes all the way to the boot + have to remove 6x9 speaker holders etc. Maybe I can chuck a shortcut by lifting it and sliding the cables in-

I had to take a break due to rain :(

Ohh okay, so you just slide the cable in with the fluff and it should pop up above the arrow I was pointing at :)

You know when you connect the guage wire to the fuse or even amp terminals. Did you just screw it onto the ends? Or did you solder it THEN put it on the ends?

ALSO where did you ground the cable? I was thinking to ground it on the one screw that holds the back seat in place

[TbM]

Yeh you can do the dodgy and just tuck the wires under the trim.


yeh you feed the wire in then you should feel a lump under the black stuff under your carpet, you know that underlay stuff in your pic

http://imageshack.us/a/img685/6882/imag0719k.jpg

reach your hand up under the black stuff then pull the wire through


depends on how the terminals are, if they are like these i would put a ring terminal on the end

http://carwirefire.com/images/amplifier%20installation/amplifier-terminals.jpg

or if like these just strip the end of the wire and put it in

http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/3183/771779.jpg

yeh i used that back seat bolt when i had 1 amp, bolt wasnt long enough for 2 ring terminals + seat bracket so i drilled a new ground point in the boot after i upgraded. remember to sand off the paint where your ground is on the chassis.

[Honda]

I tried running the power cable but it gets jammed (it keeps going to the right and not directly down arrrgh!). I lift the black thing and reach as fast as I could, and unable to find the power cable. Where about it is? I cant point point the position.

The fender was annoying, had to take out bumper, MUD GUARDS, headlights just to get a good access to that plug! Even then, I was unable to completely take off the fender as it was stuck somewhere at the bottom of the side skirt. No idea where.

Now the drilling part is what I'm afraid of. What if i drill a wire.. is your ek gli or cxi?
I perfer to have power windows + central locking than a sound system so yeah.. I don't want to tamper into something that is working perfectly fine.

I just feel like running it through the door and under the door trim (its bad i know :() or even use the factory wire. Will there be any difference if I use factory wire? Considering my system is quite low end anyways.

I'm getting frustrated lol

[TbM]

I tried running the power cable but it gets jammed (it keeps going to the right and not directly down arrrgh!). I lift the black thing and reach as fast as I could, and unable to find the power cable. Where about it is? I cant point point the position.
zip tie wire onto a straightened coat hanger then jam that down

The fender was annoying, had to take out bumper, MUD GUARDS, headlights just to get a good access to that plug! Even then, I was unable to completely take off the fender as it was stuck somewhere at the bottom of the side skirt. No idea where.

thats why i pulled the door pins, easier imo

Now the drilling part is what I'm afraid of. What if i drill a wire.. is your ek gli or cxi?
I perfer to have power windows + central locking than a sound system so yeah.. I don't want to tamper into something that is working perfectly fine.

gli. as i explained before if you pull the plug out you can see where the wires are then drill where there are no wires, easy as.

I just feel like running it through the door and under the door trim (its bad i know :() or even use the factory wire. Will there be any difference if I use factory wire? Considering my system is quite low end anyways.

I'm getting frustrated lol

I always run new higher gauge cables on every install but if you want to take the easy path then reusing the stock wiring will work.

[Honda]

reusing the stock wiring will work.

Do you know how much volatge the stock wire can handle?

[TbM]

Do you know how much volatge the stock wire can handle? speaker cable isnt rated in voltage, You need to look at the ohm load and length of wire to determine the minimum gauge that can be used.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speaker_wire
http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm
http://www.audioholics.com/education/cables/speaker-cable-gauge

[Honda]

That is alot of writing! I hope the Maximo's will run ok with the stock wires.. It's only 4ohms @ 80W and I don't think it will be on 80W all the time.

[Honda]

OMG TBM!! I AM NEARLY DONE!!

The left speaker had 4 wires? Do I twist them a solder it on to the corresponding + and - on the speaker?
There are TWO blue
There are TWO grey/black
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg24/scaled.php?server=24&filename=imag0740p.jpg&res=landing

preout or line in? to connect the rca from headunit to amp?

[TbM]

That is alot of writing! I hope the Maximo's will run ok with the stock wires.. It's only 4ohms @ 80W and I don't think it will be on 80W all the time.
obviously didnt read what i posted or the links, its nothing to do with watts, voltage or current.

its the ohm load and distance that dictates speaker cable size.

OMG TBM!! I AM NEARLY DONE!!

The left speaker had 4 wires? Do I twist them a solder it on to the corresponding + and - on the speaker?
There are TWO blue
There are TWO grey/black
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg24/scaled.php?server=24&filename=imag0740p.jpg&res=landing
do you have a multi meter or test light? cut off plug then use MM or test light to verify which 2 wires are running to the head unit, discard the other 2 and crimp female spade connectors on the ones running to the head unit.

preout or line in? to connect the rca from headunit to amp?
wat? pre out goes to amp, line in is your auxillary input ie if you hook up an external source of sound like a dvd player or ipod ect

[Honda]

I need to get a muti meter (had one that is years old, doesn't work anymore).

I have a test light but it is only a pen? I thought it needed like a pen + wire or something.. No idea how to use that either.

I might get a MM tomorrow. What is the process of testing the wire to see if it runs through the headunit? Very new to this... :(

Sorry was in a rush when I was typing that preout thing.
My amp has two output that can be plugged with the RCA.
- PreAmp Out
- Line In

http://imageshack.us/a/img805/3630/imag0744u.jpg
Ahhh.. I still need to figure out the amp settings.

I think Hi pass, freq and input level needs adjusting? Can I just set it to 1/4 of the way for testing and running it short term until I do some more research? desperately just want it running so I can continue with my overly loaded assigments due soon..

[TbM]

I need to get a muti meter (had one that is years old, doesn't work anymore).

I have a test light but it is only a pen? I thought it needed like a pen + wire or something.. No idea how to use that either.

I might get a MM tomorrow. What is the process of testing the wire to see if it runs through the headunit? Very new to this... :(
with mm you just attach one probe to the + wire where the headunit is then touch the other probe onto the wires in your door untill you find a circut, you have found your +, repeat with negative. http://electrical.about.com/od/electricaltools/a/testcontinuity.htm

Sorry was in a rush when I was typing that preout thing.
My amp has two output that can be plugged with the RCA.
- PreAmp Out
- Line In

http://imageshack.us/a/img805/3630/imag0744u.jpg

the rca's go
headunits preout > Rca > amps line in
your sending the signal from the headunit to the amp

Ahhh.. I still need to figure out the amp settings.

I think Hi pass, freq and input level needs adjusting? Can I just set it to 1/4 of the way for testing and running it short term until I do some more research? desperately just want it running so I can continue with my overly loaded assigments due soon..
Hi pass should be off but snce you cant set it off on that amp just turn it to the lowest frequency, ive explained how to set the gain(input level) to you before.



The amp is simple, your not running a sub atm so hpf filter is off then set head unit to 75% of max volume and start withe the gain at the highest voltage and turn it up till you hear clipping/distortion then bring it back just before you heard it.

[Honda]

MM seems easy enough.

Oh right- I'll make the amp go line in instead of preamp out. ooops!

lowest frequency as in what it is now? For low, high, freq, bass boost?

I just need to adjust gain only? really! thats so easy! (hopefully lol). yeah i remember the post but this amp had more settings to play around (got confused)

[TbM]

yeh what its set at now. your speaker will have a crossover and/or a roll off point that will limit the low end frequencys anyway. that way your getting the maximum ammount of frequencys to the speaker as you have no sub to reproduce low end sounds.

[Drifter995]

Agreed with everything tbm has said.

Also, with the pen light thingo, it's easy to use for finding power wires and what not. You attach the clip to a ground point, such as a bolt attached to the body (or the body itself) and then poke wires with the pen. If it lights up, there is a circuit, so that wire is live. It's good for finding main power, acc power, illumination wire. Just find the one with power when the car is off, then find the one when the car is on acc, but turns off when acc is turned off, then find the one that turns on and off with lights.
But not helpful for speakers. A double a battery and tape and wires is though. attach some wire to each end of a bettery, tape it together, and you can find out which wires go to which speaker. The battery will make the speakers emit a popping noise. Not 100% sure if it's bad for them, so don't do it for long. Very handy for finding which cables go to fronts and which go to backs and what not.

But yeah, tbm is on the money for everything :D

[EKVTIR-T]

TbM for ICE moderator

http://real-deal-blog.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/vote-now.jpg

[TbM]

Agreed with everything tbm has said.

Also, with the pen light thingo, it's easy to use for finding power wires and what not. You attach the clip to a ground point, such as a bolt attached to the body (or the body itself) and then poke wires with the pen. If it lights up, there is a circuit, so that wire is live. It's good for finding main power, acc power, illumination wire. Just find the one with power when the car is off, then find the one when the car is on acc, but turns off when acc is turned off, then find the one that turns on and off with lights.
But not helpful for speakers. A double a battery and tape and wires is though. attach some wire to each end of a bettery, tape it together, and you can find out which wires go to which speaker. The battery will make the speakers emit a popping noise. Not 100% sure if it's bad for them, so don't do it for long. Very handy for finding which cables go to fronts and which go to backs and what not.

But yeah, tbm is on the money for everything :D
Nice one drifter i forgot about the battery test, that doesnt tell you which is pos and which is neg tho does it? also id probably do it with the stock speakers if i was to do it, just to be safe.

with the test light he could still use it to determine which wire was which but he said his was missing the cable on the pen so i didnt go into it further. If you ground the test light and wrap the pos then neg wire onto the 12V constant then you can test which of the 4 cables are running to the headunit. that requires him to undo some of his harness tho so multi meter is better as you dont have to unhook wires to test.

TbM for ICE moderator

http://real-deal-blog.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/vote-now.jpg

Lol wut

[Honda]

I've purchased a volt meter today. I did what tbM has told me (it produced something like 0.02 volts set on 20V for the MM)
The others produced 0
So I got the two wires that produced 0.02 and solder it onto the speakers

I've pretty much wired everything and the amp is mounted on the back seat.

ISSUE:
- When the engine is running, I hear funny sounds like a subwoofer when nothing is playing (volume set to 0).
- When the engine is off. It works perfectly with the car (volume set to 0 and no funny sounds).
- The sound adjusted to the accelerator

Edit: Provided a better description

[Drifter995]

Yeah, battery test doesn't really help tell which is pos and which is neg, but usually they are marked (usually...).

That's weird... I don't think I've ever encountered LOW frequency interference/ noise... Could be a grounding issue, perhaps?

[Honda]

I also notice that when I press the accelerator, the sound adjusts to the amount of accelerator I put in. This is very strange~

[Honda]

Could be a grounding issue, perhaps?

My ground is very solid to the body of the car. It had a metal bolt touching it on the top (seat screws) but I think that's ok

this is so frustrating...

[TbM]

did you remove the paint under the ground? is your amp chassis isolated from the car chassis? which side did you run the rca's and power wire?

[Honda]

Helloooo everyone! I'm so happy at the moment. 5 days of hard work 7am to 5pm all day everyday to install this system. Just came from a pumping cruise (oh yeaaah)

I want to say a very special thanks to tbM for putting up with me and all the work he had done in order to help me. I can't thank you enough.

The source of the sound was comming from the left speaker. Probably one of the wires got caught on the speaker terminal or door (even though I duct tapped it) causing that WEIRD DDDDEERRRZZZZZWOOFDERWOOF sound. It seemed like the small shake from the engine running caused movement which made the sound enhanced.

Turning the amp was quite interesting. It was distorting at 1/4 way on the gain at 80%ish volume (with a very bass doof doof song that I had)

AND OH. MY .GOD. the quality is amazing, clear, and just wow! I think the speakers needs more pumping to be loosen up to it's new home :D Only negative thing I can say is that the treble is abit harsh at times but I don't mind it too much. My ears can adjust :)

I disconnected the back speakers because they were TOO loud compared to the front (because the gain for the front is set to not distort at ~80% level). I couldn't find rear adjustment on the HU.

[Drifter995]

you can fade the sound to the front... pretty easy to do.
but still, glad you're enjoying it. I can't wait to get my fronts done, but I need a new sub first... blew my type S today apparently >.>

[TbM]

Helloooo everyone! I'm so happy at the moment. 5 days of hard work 7am to 5pm all day everyday to install this system. Just came from a pumping cruise (oh yeaaah)

I want to say a very special thanks to tbM for putting up with me and all the work he had done in order to help me. I can't thank you enough.

The source of the sound was comming from the left speaker. Probably one of the wires got caught on the speaker terminal or door (even though I duct tapped it) causing that WEIRD DDDDEERRRZZZZZWOOFDERWOOF sound. It seemed like the small shake from the engine running caused movement which made the sound enhanced.

Turning the amp was quite interesting. It was distorting at 1/4 way on the gain at 80%ish volume (with a very bass doof doof song that I had)

AND OH. MY .GOD. the quality is amazing, clear, and just wow! I think the speakers needs more pumping to be loosen up to it's new home :D Only negative thing I can say is that the treble is abit harsh at times but I don't mind it too much. My ears can adjust :)

I disconnected the back speakers because they were TOO loud compared to the front (because the gain for the front is set to not distort at ~80% level). I couldn't find rear adjustment on the HU.
No worries, happy to help, good to see people diy'ing. Glad you got it all working :) now for the fun part that makes the work worthwhile, listening to beats knowing that you did the work yourself, Wynnyng.

whats ur headunit model number? might be able to tell you how to fix the treble.

I removed my back speakers, they are useless imo when you have a decently amp'ed front speakers

you can fade the sound to the front... pretty easy to do.
but still, glad you're enjoying it. I can't wait to get my fronts done, but I need a new sub first... blew my type S today apparently >.>
Thats no good mun, how did you manage that?

[Drifter995]

No worries, happy to help, good to see people diy'ing. Glad you got it all working :) now for the fun part that makes the work worthwhile, listening to beats knowing that you did the work yourself, Wynnyng.

whats ur headunit model number? might be able to tell you how to fix the treble.

I removed my back speakers, they are useless imo when you have a decently amp'ed front speakers

Was going to come back and mention back speakers aren't really needed, haha. beat me to it ;D


Thats no good mun, how did you manage that?

Had my type s on 1ohm, and pumping at a decent level... on non-bassy songs :> then put on bassy songs. Didn't like it very much xD Will probably use my sony xplod for now till I have money for another sub

[Honda]

No worries, happy to help, good to see people diy'ing. Glad you got it all working :) now for the fun part that makes the work worthwhile, listening to beats knowing that you did the work yourself, Wynnyng.

whats ur headunit model number? might be able to tell you how to fix the treble.


My head unit is: Kenwood KDC-U449 :) Yeah I think I'll leave the back disconnected (but it will be good if they can be run on very very low treble and just have bass, if that's possible)

[Honda]

Look what I found! Haha

http://imageshack.us/a/img507/3835/tumblrltne9ux2pv1qb9vva.gif

[TbM]

Had my type s on 1ohm, and pumping at a decent level... on non-bassy songs :> then put on bassy songs. Didn't like it very much xD Will probably use my sony xplod for now till I have money for another sub
Balls, they dvc subs arnt they? could try running it on one vc if you are lucky enough to have only damaged one of them.

My head unit is: Kenwood KDC-U449 :) Yeah I think I'll leave the back disconnected (but it will be good if they can be run on very very low treble and just have bass, if that's possible)
http://manual.kenwood.com/files/4edc6b41646d2.pdf

page 13/14 you have tre adjustment(treble), change the centre frequency to the to the frequency that your having trouble with and then turn the tre level down. if you dont know what freq is the problem put a track on that shows the harshness then play around with the centre freq and tre level untill you find a setting you like.

Look what I found! Haha

http://imageshack.us/a/img507/3835/tumblrltne9ux2pv1qb9vva.gif
This is what i feel like after i listen to my focals


http://weknowmemes.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/true-story-new.png

[Honda]

Some more reviews on the Morel

I've been playing it for 2hrs and I noticed a few things that is very different from my stock speakers (or it might be because the back is disconnected)

1. With the stock speakers, everything sounds good with and without the window open. But for the Morels, the sound depreciate really fast that it doesn't sound good anymore (unless you roll up the window back)
2. The morels at around 20 volume (out of 30 at distort). Plays VERY clear music that is just WOW but the bass doesn't kick in until around 27 of the volume (at nearly distort level)
3. Playing it at 25 makes my ears fuzzy but they weren't loud!! compared to what I was pumping to the stock speakers. (stocks were louder but my ears didn't become fuzzy)
I think this is due to the Morels playing some low frequencies that the stocks wasn't able to produce? Or maybe the speakers are producing sounds that the human ear can't hear?

So to get my "ideal" sound I have to roll the windows up, set it to around 27 out of 30(distort level) and fuzzy sound when I'm back home (you know what the sound is right? when you listen to too loud music and it makes your ears fuzzy? lol)

But with my stock speakers roll up or roll in, it doesn't matter. Still sounds ok either way etc without fuzz

[TbM]

Its hard to say without hearing it myself but im guessing that fuzz your talking about is harsh treble, try doing my above post and see if it helps.

How are the speakers installed, did you just mount them to the door trim or did you mount it to the door with an mdf spacer and seal the service holes?

[Honda]

Its hard to say without hearing it myself but im guessing that fuzz your talking about is harsh treble, try doing my above post and see if it helps.

How are the speakers installed, did you just mount them to the door trim or did you mount it to the door with an mdf spacer and seal the service holes?

Its like you go drive on a open road for a long time and your ears jam. That's the "fuzz" or whatever you call it, I don't know how to describe it. So your suggesting that it might be caused by the harsh treble?
Yeah Ive played around with the treble, it helps abit but I think it sounds better with the treble abit up on +1 rather than in the - levels. But I haven't fully played around with the frequency yet- it kinda sounds the same to me with volts up and down.

Should I touch the mid and mid bass?

I didn't notice anything when I adjusted the fade settings.

However, I noticed the sound is best when your head is on the handbrake so I +2 on the balance and it's somewhat better.

My speakers are currently mounted on the door trim due to time constraints.

My next project will definitely be mounting it on the door + mdf spacer + dynamat. Just don't have time right now~ :(

[TbM]

Its like you go drive on a open road for a long time and your ears jam. That's the "fuzz" or whatever you call it, I don't know how to describe it. So your suggesting that it might be caused by the harsh treble?
my ears dont jam when i drive for a long time. when my ears fatigue its usualy from excess treble.

Yeah Ive played around with the treble, it helps abit but I think it sounds better with the treble abit up on +1 rather than in the - levels. But I haven't fully played around with the frequency yet- it kinda sounds the same to me with volts up and down.
You said the treble was harsh, if you would like to get rid of some of that try what i described.


Should I touch the mid and mid bass?
If you like but installing the driver properly will make a bigger difference than tuning.

I didn't notice anything when I adjusted the fade settings.
If you fade to F (front) it will reduce the signal sent to the rear speakers, so would make them quieter if they were connected.

My speakers are currently mounted on the door trim due to time constraints.

My next project will definitely be mounting it on the door + mdf spacer + dynamat. Just don't have time right now~ :(
mounting them properly and sealing service holes will make a huge difference.

[Honda]

What does mid adjustment do? Is it the instruments? or just the sound in general?

[Honda]

The sound is coming back again, there is some sort of interference with the left speaker :(

Not sure what the cause is but I do have a few theories:
1. The four wires need to be solder onto the speaker. Because the factory harness did connect two onto one speaker terminal of either (+) or (-)
2. The speaker terminal may be touching the metal door but I don't think so.

Is there a way to check if the left speaker is generating unwanted signals? Testing the wire with a MM or something? If so, how would I do this?

The sound is very low frequency and it's hard to notice but after a drive- my left ear is jammed while right is fine.
It was much better than before but the sound generated from the speaker comes and goes? remount always does the trick (did it twice).

I only realised today that the sound was coming because left ear is jammed while right is ok, so then I touched the left speaker and noticed it was vibrating which means the sounds are being created but hardly noticeable and it definitely does do some damage to the ear.

Edit: Tried to explain it better

[Drifter995]

I don't know what you mean by jamming either :/ sorry...
It is curious though, if it is low bass. but yeah, getting them installed/ installing them properly will give you more bass, and make them sound a lot nicer.

As for my S, I don't think that'd work... she's stuck hard. s'all good. Lasted two completely different systems. it served me well :D

[Honda]

I don't know what you mean by jamming either :/ sorry...


Hmm.. It's the feeling you get in your ears when you know that you've been pumping your system too loud

[TbM]

Not sure what the cause is but I do have a few theories:
1. The four wires need to be solder onto the speaker. Because the factory harness did connect two onto one speaker terminal of either (+) or (-)
doubt it, you only need one set of wires to run a speaker


2. The speaker terminal may be touching the metal door but I don't think so.
this is probably your problem


Is there a way to check if the left speaker is generating unwanted signals? Testing the wire with a MM or something? If so, how would I do this?

disconnect speaker cable from amp, set multi meter on lowest resistance setting, put one probe on your ground one on a speaker wire, if you get a reading that's not infinite your gonna have a bad time.

how are the connections made to the speaker? ie did you solder the joins between factory harnes and your speaker wire and properly terminate the end of the wire with spade connectors.

[Drifter995]

disconnect speaker cable from amp, set multi meter on lowest resistance setting, put one probe on your ground one on a speaker wire, if you get a reading that's not infinite your gonna have a bad time.

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to TbM again. Dammit TbM. Am I giving you all my rep? I can't rep you anymore :<
Also, do you mean you hear a high pitched whine? Like after a concert? that's all I can think of

[TbM]

^^ Lol you have to spread your rep around to 15 people before you can rep the same person again.

[Drifter995]

^^ Lol you have to spread your rep around to 15 people before you can rep the same person again.

that's aids.... that won't happen D:

[Honda]

disconnect speaker cable from amp, set multi meter on lowest resistance setting, put one probe on your ground one on a speaker wire, if you get a reading that's not infinite your gonna have a bad time.

how are the connections made to the speaker? ie did you solder the joins between factory harnes and your speaker wire and properly terminate the end of the wire with spade connectors.


When trying to get the resistance should the headunit/engine be on? The sound only occurs when the engine is running- and do I have to disconnect the ground cable from the amp?

I've connected the speakers by:
- cutting the harness out. Leaving 4 stripped wires.
- 2 of the wires were DIRECTLY soldered onto the speaker
- The other two remaining ends has been duct tapped
- Today, I've just overloaded the terminals with duct tape. I even went to the extreme of duct tapping the door metal just incase there is a loose end. I think it made it somewhat better :) Need to play it more to notice-

[Honda]

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to TbM again. Dammit TbM. Am I giving you all my rep? I can't rep you anymore :<
Also, do you mean you hear a high pitched whine? Like after a concert? that's all I can think of

LOL I always get the same message! TbM deserves to be repped more!!

Yeah I guess you could describe it like that. But you will certainly have that "feeling" in your ear after a concert. But this issue here is that my system IS NOT that loud and my ear has that same feeling. SO the sound is kinda invisible if that makes any sense.

[TbM]

that's aids.... that won't happen D:
Lol, yeh its a bit annoying

When trying to get the resistance should the headunit/engine be on?
No, your checking if there is continuity between the speaker cable and chassis

The sound only occurs when the engine is running- and do I have to disconnect the ground cable from the amp?
no, just disconnect the speaker cables from the amp and test them.

I've connected the speakers by:
- cutting the harness out. Leaving 4 stripped wires.
- 2 of the wires were DIRECTLY soldered onto the speaker
- The other two remaining ends has been duct tapped
- Today, I've just overloaded the terminals with duct tape. I even went to the extreme of duct tapping the door metal just incase there is a loose end. I think it made it somewhat better :) Need to play it more to notice-

Ive never herd of using duct tape for wires, i use electrical tape.

[Honda]

Okay I've did a continuity test between the speaker and chassis.

Results:
- On default the reading on 200 ohm (lowest level) is 1
- When black is on chassis and red is on each speaker cable the reading does not change. Still at 1 (This reading is the same with + and - of BOTH speakers)

Is this ok?

Hmm I think I'm using the wrong terms for duct tape/electrical tape. Yeah I think I was using electrical tape (its black and smooth)

[TbM]

Okay I've did a continuity test between the speaker and chassis.

Results:
- On default the reading on 200 ohm (lowest level) is 1
- When black is on chassis and red is on each speaker cable the reading does not change. Still at 1 (This reading is the same with + and - of BOTH speakers)

Is this ok?

Hmm I think I'm using the wrong terms for duct tape/electrical tape. Yeah I think I was using electrical tape (its black and smooth)
by 1 do you mean infinite? if its like this then its infinite and your all good.
http://www.outilsobdfacile.com/software/Diagnostic1_Multimeter-original.jpg

[Honda]

Yep! exactly like that.

This is strange, I'm almost certain that the speakers are producing some sort of sound that is irritating my ear. My left ear only car hear about 70% of sounds now, I hope it gets better tomorrow...

[TbM]

is the interference problem fixed now you have stopped your terminals grounding out?

[Honda]

is the interference problem fixed now you have stopped your terminals grounding out?

I think it has improved. I haven't tested it yet as my ear is still healing :( don't want to listen to any more of the system till my hearing goes back to normal again