How much fuel does your car drink?

[lilaznboi52]

Hey i just want to know how much fuel your car drinks..

[DakDak]

Hi little boy of asian appearance,

I get about 450km out of a 55L tank. 500km if I restrain myself.

[joeyybruh]

515 - 520 km off a 40 litre tank , B18C7 in an EG .. mainly highway driving with decent city driving .

[sensei_]

bro... this thread is for accords no?

[aaronng]

Moved.

Please post in the correct section in the future.

Mine drinks as much as I tell it to.

[ryaan]

500 a tank, all city .. trip computer says 11L/100

[afgmoh]

500-550 per tank depending how I drive. This is through city and highway driving with BP Ultimate

[MR_LATE]

850-960

[ChaosMaster]

650 from a tank, with mainly fwy driving (about 70%)

[aaronng]

8.6 L/100km when driving to and from work in Sydney.
10.5 L/100km when driving in the city
7.1 L/100km when driving on the Hume Highway, 100km/h all the way.

[sensei_]

850-960

thats really good. how are you driving it, and what do you use? (fuel wise)

[MR_LATE]

v-power or bp ultimate. 70 percent hwy/fwy 15 suburban 15 city. ill get 800 ish if i thrash, 900+ if i change at 2000 revs (oppa grandma style driving). Bhudda51au is really good at getting 1000 kms outta one tank. one day :P

[HunterZero]

9.3 around the city typically, or around 700km. Usually get to over 650km before refilling. 7.0 on the highway is the best I've done (which would be over 900km), haven't cracked under 7 yet.

- HZ

[ChaosMaster]

v-power or bp ultimate. 70 percent hwy/fwy 15 suburban 15 city. ill get 800 ish if i thrash, 900+ if i change at 2000 revs (oppa grandma style driving). Bhudda51au is really good at getting 1000 kms outta one tank. one day :P

Damn, the best I did was from Dandenong (S.E Melb) all the way to Adelaide on a single tank. Was about 60 litres to ~800km I guess, to get 1000 km is crazy. Do it!

[roony]

100% ciry I get around 600 a tank.

Once managed to get 940km coming from syd to melb with around 5 liters to go. Havnt been able.to repeat that on the trip after.

[MR_LATE]

k/n filter and manual, 34 psi on stock michelin. not sure what u guys have. the better it breathes the more fuel eco, the right psi for your tyres too. but ya know its hard to not drop it sometimes. gotta live up to my name either way LOL

[Ryan_1]

about 550 to a tank in my ek

[spring]

500-550km, BP ultimate/V-power.

[hanzzi]

500km city driving on BP Ultimate.

[siir]

Short driving (4-6km) Suburb/City driving (driving to-from work) > Trip Computer says: 13.3L/100km on Shell V Power.
On a Hot day 30-34C deg = 21-23L/100km. Full tank 500km. This is when I used Nulon Total Fuel Cleaner - Half tank used so far...

Before it was even worse : Suburb/City driving 18.5L/100km on Shell V Power.

Mods: K&N Panel Filter - Manual > normal driving - no revving, etc.
Can anybody help, why my car drink so much? thanks

[-[NoS]-]

air con always on?

[siir]

-;3598321']air con always on?

no air cond... and if air cond was on - the diff was not much tho.
thanks

[sensei_]

no air cond... and if air cond was on - the diff was not much tho.

really? on the legend, having aircon on kills the fuel consumption by about 10%. it makes a huge difference if going for country drives.

[siir]

really? on the legend, having aircon on kills the fuel consumption by about 10%. it makes a huge difference if going for country drives.

Its not a huge difference when driving short distance :)
I am more concern about the consumption without a/c on..

[sensei_]

yeah, im not too concerned about fuel consumption, and when the missus is in the car, her comfort is more important than anything.

and for those who are interested, i do about 12.6-13l/100km. this is 50:50 highway:city driving.

[cheapdouchebag]

i get High 8.XL's regardless of how i drive to be honest will always keep revs going above 4 but i shift very quick. CT icebox & K&N filter on a MT. 40PSI fronts 38 rear (iknow, i just wanna go through these bloody kuhmo solus i got with the car so i can buy new ones)

Thing is people gotta realise when it comes to our cars. CL9 n CU2 have different petrol tank sizes. thats why them CU2's are gettin the 900's where im just nickin close to 800

[ExpressCoffee]

How do I know what PSI to have my tires at? Right now they're at 38 and the max is 40..

I get around 650-750 from my 65L tank with V Power. (CU2) It's usually around 9.5L/100km

All suburb driving and little freeway. What's the best point to change gears at?

[dirlok]

I get about 570km on average from my tank. Using V Power. I use the car to drive to the bus stop. 50kms a day on average. I dont usually rev past 5k, changing at 4k....cruising :)

[d_evilz]

^ same as above. i've been driving like a granny lately lol!

[HunterZero]

Thing is people gotta realise when it comes to our cars. CL9 n CU2 have different petrol tank sizes. thats why them CU2's are gettin the 900's where im just nickin close to 800

Really? Specs say they are both 65L?

CU2 updated engine tune and physical revisions probably allow for more 'conservative' fuel use and better economy.

It's been said before that a faulty O2 sensor could mean the engine is falsely reading the mix as lean, and adding more fuel to protect the engine so it's running rich. To those with bad economy, are your exhausts really dirty?

- HZ

[MR_LATE]

I get about 570km on average from my tank. Using V Power. I use the car to drive to the bus stop. 50kms a day on average. I dont usually rev past 5k, changing at 4k....cruising :)

daaam bro i change at 2 lol

[joeyybruh]

hard , I change at 3.5 .. feels just right lol 3 sometimes too

[dougie_504]

EH9 with D16Y1

CAI + header

Getting 8-8.5/100 these days. Mostly outer suburban driving with a few 80 zones which has dropped it from 8.5-9+/100 when I was in mostly 50-70 zones previously.

Mostly changing 3,000-4,000 unless I'm in a chill mood and shifting 2,500-3,000.

[Jasemas]

Last fill results were
10.3/100km
1/3 FWY Driving
Rest - City Driving

[cend0l]

I feel that caltex vortex 98 gives more power to my CU2 compared to the BP Ultimate. I get about 700km on a full tank. City driving mostly with the occasional long drive from GC to Brisbane.

[natnat]

daaam bro i change at 2 lol

I see why you were crawling slowly off the lights on Gympie Rd behind me a few weeks ago :)

[natnat]

11-12L/100km... and I always feel heavy on the right foot every now and then.

[aaronng]

Really? Specs say they are both 65L?

CU2 updated engine tune and physical revisions probably allow for more 'conservative' fuel use and better economy.

Yeah, CU2 VTEC is the fuel economy version which is on the intake only. I think it alters between 12V and 16V operation to improve swirling, which boosts fuel economy at low load driving speeds and conditions.

[MR_LATE]

I see why you were crawling slowly off the lights on Gympie Rd behind me a few weeks ago :)

really? phew as long as i werent driving like a dick hehe. gympie road near strathpine?

[natnat]

really? phew as long as i werent driving like a dick hehe. gympie road near strathpine?

it was near Kedron.. driving like a grandpa, yes. :p

i've seen you 4 times now, Gympie Rd 3x and Sunnybank 1x. i'm in either a Golf GTI or blue CU2.

[Xplodin]

Aaron you still have your CL9?

Currently with a few light mods, i'm able to get about 700km out of a full tank (filling up about 57L) Thats with just taking it easy and not really trying.

A few light mods nothing over the top.

[aaronng]

Aaron you still have your CL9?

Currently with a few light mods, i'm able to get about 700km out of a full tank (filling up about 57L) Thats with just taking it easy and not really trying.

A few light mods nothing over the top.
Yup, still have my Euro. You're getting 8.14 L/100km, which is better than my mixed 50-50 highway/suburb driving.

I'm going to clean up the engine using upper cylinder cleaner next week, it should take out the carbon deposits in the cylinder, see how it goes.

[MR_LATE]

it was near Kedron.. driving like a grandpa, yes. :p

i've seen you 4 times now, Gympie Rd 3x and Sunnybank 1x. i'm in either a Golf GTI or blue CU2.
dude i never see people hey soz.. the amount of golfs thats wants to go me sigh :P blue cu2? fuark i love the blueros at night sooooooo nice!

[sensei_]

I'm going to clean up the engine using upper cylinder cleaner next week, it should take out the carbon deposits in the cylinder, see how it goes.

does this need to be done before an oil change? also what brand do you use. it seems alot of guys like to use the subaru upper cyl cleaner.

[aaronng]

does this need to be done before an oil change? also what brand do you use. it seems alot of guys like to use the subaru upper cyl cleaner.

Can be done anytime. It does not need to be before an oil change. I'm using the Threebond brand, which they supposedly produce for Subaru the upper cyl cleaner. Threebond has upper cylinder cleaners for petrol, LPG and diesel engines!

[sensei_]

wouldnt be surprised. threebond is a japanese company if im not wrong, so very likely they are producing for subaru. will a upper cylinder clean be the same as a carbon clean? each time i bring my car into the dealership they try to sell me the carbon clean package.

it seems that it is a singaporean company distributing this product, makes me wonder if it is any cheaper in singapore.

[MR_LATE]

honda guy said subaru does it in all their service everytime. he said its 'the shit!'

[sensei_]

apparently its because something to do with the orientation of their engines (horizontal). engines that are vertical dont have to do it as often.

[natnat]

carbon deposits.. isn't because of the direct injection design? the 86 / BRZ has both direct and indirect injections to prevent this carbon build up problem.

the subaru turbo engines and many other direct injection turbo engines (Audi / VW) have this carbon deposit problem. Hence why VW / Audi only recommends VW504.00 approved oils (Group 4 base I think and at least $75/5L for Shell Helix Ultra Extra / Penrite Enviro something) to reduce this issue.

I have a catch can to reduce this problem too.

[Fredoops]

carbon deposits.. isn't because of the direct injection design? the 86 / BRZ has both direct and indirect injections to prevent this carbon build up problem.

the subaru turbo engines and many other direct injection turbo engines (Audi / VW) have this carbon deposit problem. Hence why VW / Audi only recommends VW504.00 approved oils (Group 4 base I think and at least $75/5L for Shell Helix Ultra Extra / Penrite Enviro something) to reduce this issue.

I have a catch can to reduce this problem too.

Subaru turbo engines (up until May this year with the introduction of the FA20DIT) are all port injection, and their carbon build up problems are pretty well known due to the flat design or something

It not necessarily about the engine oil, it's about no fuel going pass the intake valves to keep it clean./

Regardless, nothing a can of Upper Engine Cleaner cant fix every 10k's, it's only 20 bucks

[MR_LATE]

Subaru turbo engines (up until May this year with the introduction of the FA20DIT) are all port injection, and their carbon build up problems are pretty well known due to the flat design or something

It not necessarily about the engine oil, it's about no fuel going pass the intake valves to keep it clean./

Regardless, nothing a can of Upper Engine Cleaner cant fix every 10k's, it's only 20 bucks
or 14.95 at bursons auto parts!

[aaronng]

I buy Threebond branded ones, $11 per bottle. It fixed a misfiring problem in my wife's Astra after troubleshooting the fuel, injectors, MAF sensor, throttle body, plugs and ignition.

[MR_LATE]

Where to buy

[sensei_]

see if you can get them from these guys:

http://www.threebond.com.au/distributors.htm

might even be able to get trade price if you dont get them thru a retailer.

[HunterZero]

Yeah, CU2 VTEC is the fuel economy version which is on the intake only. I think it alters between 12V and 16V operation to improve swirling, which boosts fuel economy at low load driving speeds and conditions.

That's interesting... I thought both the iVTEC in the K24A3 in the CL9 and the K24Z3 in the CU2 had VTEC on both intake and exhaust? I though it was the seppo Accord, Odyssey and CRV that all had the same derated K24 engine that missed out on the VTEC on exhaust and as a result were derated by about 20kW?

VTEC crossover is at lower RPM on the CU2 compared to CL9, which may explain some of the power difference.

- HZ

[aaronng]

That's interesting... I thought both the iVTEC in the K24A3 in the CL9 and the K24Z3 in the CU2 had VTEC on both intake and exhaust? I though it was the seppo Accord, Odyssey and CRV that all had the same derated K24 engine that missed out on the VTEC on exhaust and as a result were derated by about 20kW?

VTEC crossover is at lower RPM on the CU2 compared to CL9, which may explain some of the power difference.

- HZ
CU2's exhaust camshaft only has 2 lobes. It is missing the big VTEC lobe in the middle. CU2's engine has higher compression to compensate and also some new friction reducing technologies to still meet the power target without using full on performance VTEC.

[aaronng]

see if you can get them from these guys:

http://www.threebond.com.au/distributors.htm

might even be able to get trade price if you dont get them thru a retailer.
I get mine from Advance Bearings, they are on that list.

[MR_LATE]

omfg ive used this before and its really good. cheaps as too and subaru fella said its as good as subarus

[SPQR]

My CL9 gets around 12l/100km with mostly suburban main road driving at this time of the year in Darwin (hot and humid). Aircon usually set to Auto-Lo so compressor likely to be on most of the time.

I used to have an MY97 WRX and I was always charged for upper engine cleaner. Apparently it was an expensive process because it added about $140 to the bill. I knew I was being ripped-off but there's no choice here. Only one dealer for each car brand and some brands not sold here at all.

I just 'filled' the car's tank today at 174.9 cent per litre for 95 R.O.N.... Have I mentioned the petrol pricing cartel that operates under the ACCC's radar here? I don't think the ACCC even knows where Darwin is.

[DakDak]

Wow. Dodgey as.

[aaronng]

omfg ive used this before and its really good. cheaps as too and subaru fella said its as good as subarus

In certain countries, Subaru is supplied by Threebond (but with Subaru labels of course).

[buddah51au]

v-power or bp ultimate. 70 percent hwy/fwy 15 suburban 15 city. ill get 800 ish if i thrash, 900+ if i change at 2000 revs (oppa grandma style driving). Bhudda51au is really good at getting 1000 kms outta one tank. one day :P

Yes, managed that figure a few times in the past, but not in recent times as the car rarely gets used. I have only done 1454kms since last Christmas at an average of 8.1L/100km. srtrickly driving within Hervey Bay, no trip over 10km. Given the driving conditions I still think it is good economy.

[bart2]

i get about 200km/h on full tank which is 59l per minute

[cend0l]

i get about 200km/h on full tank which is 59l per minute

That doesnt even make sense. I get 9.92km/l

[Fredoops]

i get about 200km/h on full tank which is 59l per minute

marked as spam

[dale_s15]

I get about 450 to a tank. 700 if completely free way driving. CL9 auto.

Why is the CU2 so much better on fuel over the CL9?? unfair!

[cend0l]

I get about 450 to a tank. 700 if completely free way driving. CL9 auto.

Why is the CU2 so much better on fuel over the CL9?? unfair!

Because life is fair? :D

[phat_nam87]

i get 550 with moderate thrashing.

[aldo10]

I changed my own oil recently and used a Shell fully synthetic 5W-40. My fuel economy is not quite as good as it was. Honda was using their mineral 5W-30 previously. I used to be able to get in the 6's/100 for highway stuff now I can't do better than 7.2/100.

[sensei_]

hows the level? if it is too much oil, it might be contribute to your fuel consumption.

[aldo10]

Nah, the oil is spot on the full mark. It's the only thing I can think of. It runs perfectly. Shell also make a 0W-30 fully synthetic. I was going to buy that but didn't think it was needed in our hot climate.

When I took the car in for it's service Honda said they will now be servicing it with 0W-20 which I thought was too thin for 30 plus degree weather.

[sensei_]

i try to have my oil about a couple of mm's before the full line. i find that its the sweet spot there. enough to supply the engine with oil, but not too much that it can push my fuel consumption over.

maybe next time try the 5w-30 in a fully synthetic and see if it makes any difference. i think a 0w-20 will be too thin.

[redseven]

Dude, the flipside of not enough oil is your engine going bust :) How do K24's tolerate low oil situations?

I've been using Honda 5w-40 full synth for a while now and it hasn't made much difference in fuel consumption. I get 7 l/100 km or high 6's on a steady cruise on the highway, especially with the cruise control turned on, on an auto CU2.

Everything goes to hell in city traffic though. I've tried letting the car shift or using the paddle shift, no luck, I see 10 l/100km or more. Creeping traffic and long idles just kill the fuel economy of this engine. Honda should've stuffed a big battery or capacitor like the Mazda6 ELOOP system and start/stop to improve fuel consumption.

[Jaymskulin]

Could'nt give you a number of k's based on a full tank but I consistantly achieve 8.3 to 8.4 average fuel per 100 k's.

[chuboy]

Like others my city economy is on par with a big 6 or even a V8 when I'm getting impatient :(

However, I did a country run the other day, got about ~7L/100km. Drive averaged 120km/h for 500kms and 25kms of shitty roadworks. So not bad at all, plus the back roads are great for exercising the precious. :D

[Fredoops]

Dude, the flipside of not enough oil is your engine going bust :) How do K24's tolerate low oil situations?

I've been using Honda 5w-40 full synth for a while now and it hasn't made much difference in fuel consumption. I get 7 l/100 km or high 6's on a steady cruise on the highway, especially with the cruise control turned on, on an auto CU2.

Everything goes to hell in city traffic though. I've tried letting the car shift or using the paddle shift, no luck, I see 10 l/100km or more. Creeping traffic and long idles just kill the fuel economy of this engine. Honda should've stuffed a big battery or capacitor like the Mazda6 ELOOP system and start/stop to improve fuel consumption.

maybe the Chinese cars are tuned to it?

When I switched over from Castrol GTX 10w-40 to a thinner full synthetic Mobil 1 5w-30 theres was an improvement on consumption, and then I switch to Mobil 1 0w-40 and fuel economy went down a little bit.

Now the difference was enough to be noticed but not enough to be worrying. But I guess the thickness of the oil matters.

[anguschang]

580km for 55L on v power

[dougie_504]

EH9 with D16Y1.

Used a tank of BP98 for a change since I normally use 91.

529.35km from 36.25L = 6.85L/100km.

Normally get 450km+ from high 30's to 40L of 91.

Very happy :)

[Razer]

not sure if this is expected. 65L....450km's pure city driving. Have coils 18" wheels intake pulleys....all of which "technically" help in reducing fuel consumption except the wheels.

[Tehnicar1]

Travelling 70% freeway, 30% local, averaging 7.5 l/100 km on Shell95.
CU2 Auto. Keeping the revs low, I have to admit.

[MR_LATE]

inb4 why shell 95 and not 98, but then some will say its doesnt matter, then some will argue that it is a waste of money for euro. then in return the engine isnt turned for it.. then...

[HunterZero]

inb4 why shell 95 and not 98, but then some will say its doesnt matter, then some will argue that it is a waste of money for euro. then in return the engine isnt turned for it.. then...

Euro definitely benefits from 98 RON due to its slightly higher energy density, and lower chance of pinging. The Euro has knock and O2 sensors that alter the tune of the engine enough to make a small difference. The car will run smoother and should give slightly better economy on 98, but because of the price difference between 95 and 98, 95 will still offer lower cost per km.

- HZ

[Tehnicar1]

Not sure that's entirely correct, Hunter. After quite extensive testing (over 3 months period) I found my car used 7.5 l/100 km of VPower vs 7.4 L of Shell 95. Not sure why, but in both cases displayed consumption was 0.4 l lower than the real one, which is a bit annoying.

[HunterZero]

It's theoretically correct. YMMV. ;)

Try BP Ultimate or Caltex Vortex 98. There are slight differences between the fuels in terms of additives, sulfur content, detergents etc. I used to use Shell Optimax in my old Accord, but when they changed to V-Power, my economy seemed to suffer, so I don't use Shell anymore. I use BP Ultimate exclusively in my CL9, it seems to be a very clean burning fuel if my spotless exhaust tips are anything to go by.

- HZ

[cend0l]

That is because the newer v6 and v8 models run on 4 cyls in city driving (driving slow) and full cyls in motorways (driving fast)

[MR_LATE]

yeah bp ultimate is the best i hate to say it but yeah..

[Tehnicar1]

I hate to say it, but i tried Vortex98 and found it had exactly the same performance as V-power. I am yet to try the BP Ultimate, though.

[buddah51au]

Not sure that's entirely correct, Hunter. After quite extensive testing (over 3 months period) I found my car used 7.5 l/100 km of VPower vs 7.4 L of Shell 95. Not sure why, but in both cases displayed consumption was 0.4 l lower than the real one, which is a bit annoying.

I agree with that comment although it is 12 months since my last highway test. The results were:-
BP 95 - 983kms / 64.06Lts = 6.52L/100
Vortex 98 - 1002kms / 66.05Lts = 6.6L/100
Same roads / same driving conditions, the only variable being wind direction & rain.

Now for the last 12 months where the car has been a garage queen with very little use, no trip over 7 kms so stop start driving with cold engine, car driven in the same manner & mostly on the same roads.

From 23/12/2011 to 1/6/12 using BP 98 - 664kms / 58.1Lts = 8.75L/100
From 1/6/12 to 29/10/12 using BP 95 - 790kms / 59.97Lts = 7.6L/100

For me the extra expense of 98 over 95 does not make sense, but each to their own.

[HunterZero]

Unless you run the economy tests on exactly the same route, at exactly the same ambient air temperature, with exactly the same stops/starts, exactly the same driving style, air con on/off, windows up and reset the ECU when draining the tank and changing fuel, those numbers are really too close to draw much conclusion from - except for buddah's result where he used almost a litre more of 98 compared to 95, but he only used 98 over a period that included summer months, whereas the 95 fuel usage was over winter months and the first two cooler months of spring. The gap is wide enough to suggest another factor contributed to the difference other than the fuel used, such as air con use, or engine run-in period.

The main benefit of 98RON is the lesser chance of the engine retarding ignition due to pinging, but if you're driving gently, you're not going to get much benefit from that. You might get more benefit from 98 if you give it a bit of grunt off the line to get to cruising speed faster.

But definitely agree, as I said before, on a cost per km basis, 98 isn't worth it. The benefit of using 98RON is the engine cleaning properties of the additives, and lower chance of detonation. I could very well be wrong about the energy density - the additives added to boost the octane to 98 may actually even reduce the energy density a little. But even if the energy densities are the same, the lower chance of detonation for 98 should mean it burns more completely eg if the engine is under load or accelerating from low RPM, and should give a slight improvement in economy.

But I did see an RACV test where the economy improvement over standard 91 was 2% for 95, and 2.5% for 98. Test cars were a Ford Falcon and a Fiesta.

- HZ

[buddah51au]

Unless you run the economy tests on exactly the same route, at exactly the same ambient air temperature, with exactly the same stops/starts, exactly the same driving style, air con on/off, windows up and reset the ECU when draining the tank and changing fuel, those numbers are really too close to draw much conclusion from - except for buddah's result where he used almost a litre more of 98 compared to 95, but he only used 98 over a period that included summer months, whereas the 95 fuel usage was over winter months and the first two cooler months of spring. The gap is wide enough to suggest another factor contributed to the difference other than the fuel used, such as air con use, or engine run-in period.

The main benefit of 98RON is the lesser chance of the engine retarding ignition due to pinging, but if you're driving gently, you're not going to get much benefit from that. You might get more benefit from 98 if you give it a bit of grunt off the line to get to cruising speed faster.

But definitely agree, as I said before, on a cost per km basis, 98 isn't worth it. The benefit of using 98RON is the engine cleaning properties of the additives, and lower chance of detonation. I could very well be wrong about the energy density - the additives added to boost the octane to 98 may actually even reduce the energy density a little. But even if the energy densities are the same, the lower chance of detonation for 98 should mean it burns more completely eg if the engine is under load or accelerating from low RPM, and should give a slight improvement in economy.

But I did see an RACV test where the economy improvement over standard 91 was 2% for 95, and 2.5% for 98. Test cars were a Ford Falcon and a Fiesta.

- HZ

I totally agree with what you say about the last 2 tanks taken over a long period, however the 2 figures stated first were back to back over a 2 week period in December, so Air Con was in use. I could have easily achieved 1000kms a tank on both occasions if a petrol station was located in the right place, obviously that is the problem when finding the distance you can go on 1 tank.

[MR_LATE]

http://weknowmemes.com/wp-content/gallery/x-all-the-things/x-all-the-things-template.jpg
pour all the vortex95!!

[cend0l]

Unless you run the economy tests on exactly the same route, at exactly the same ambient air temperature, with exactly the same stops/starts, exactly the same driving style, air con on/off, windows up and reset the ECU when draining the tank and changing fuel, those numbers are really too close to draw much conclusion from - except for buddah's result where he used almost a litre more of 98 compared to 95, but he only used 98 over a period that included summer months, whereas the 95 fuel usage was over winter months and the first two cooler months of spring. The gap is wide enough to suggest another factor contributed to the difference other than the fuel used, such as air con use, or engine run-in period.

The main benefit of 98RON is the lesser chance of the engine retarding ignition due to pinging, but if you're driving gently, you're not going to get much benefit from that. You might get more benefit from 98 if you give it a bit of grunt off the line to get to cruising speed faster.

But definitely agree, as I said before, on a cost per km basis, 98 isn't worth it. The benefit of using 98RON is the engine cleaning properties of the additives, and lower chance of detonation. I could very well be wrong about the energy density - the additives added to boost the octane to 98 may actually even reduce the energy density a little. But even if the energy densities are the same, the lower chance of detonation for 98 should mean it burns more completely eg if the engine is under load or accelerating from low RPM, and should give a slight improvement in economy.

But I did see an RACV test where the economy improvement over standard 91 was 2% for 95, and 2.5% for 98. Test cars were a Ford Falcon and a Fiesta.

- HZ

On average, its about $4 difference for a full tank of RON 95 and RON 98. You dont save much with RON 95. Anyway been using mostly vortex 98 since caltex dont charge a surcharge for using Amex. BP does :(

[kjs]

It does appear the CU2 has a significant economy advantage over the earlier CL9 Euros ...due to the different vtec design . In anycase i avg about 8.4l/100 in normal Sydney daily driving and usually 6.7-7.1 on highway/long trips ..very impressed with the car . Use 98 ron normally BP,might try 95 to see if it makes any difference . Vortex 98 seemed to give a slightly smoother idle i think.

[Fredoops]

due to the different vtec design

Not really, the key things are friction reduction and electronic steering (instead of hydro pump in the CL9) they're what made the difference.


You'd make more power outta a K24 in the CL9.

[pintara91]

perth city driving. 8.9 - 9.1 L/100km on vortex 98.

[dougie_504]

6.5L/100 90% rural.
7.5L/100 100% urban.

Very happy :)

[josaya]

It does appear the CU2 has a significant economy advantage over the earlier CL9 Euros ...due to the different vtec design . In anycase i avg about 8.4l/100 in normal Sydney daily driving and usually 6.7-7.1 on highway/long trips ..very impressed with the car . Use 98 ron normally BP,might try 95 to see if it makes any difference . Vortex 98 seemed to give a slightly smoother idle i think.

I'm not finding this in Perth.....

CL9 on vortex95 was around 8.5L/100km (sheer work traffic) vs the 9.1L/100km on the cu2 :( then again the extra 200kgs weight may have something to do with it...

[Box]

yeah I feel like my CL9 pretty thirsty

[RenzokukenJ]

I'm not finding this in Perth.....

CL9 on vortex95 was around 8.5L/100km (sheer work traffic) vs the 9.1L/100km on the cu2 :( then again the extra 200kgs weight may have something to do with it...

Depends which one you go to...

How busy are your petrol stations? Maybe the fuel that you are using is old and stale, possibly with water mixed with it

[5amo]

6.7l Highway 7.3l over all Avg 85%Hwy 15%At Vortex 98

[philipminge]

cl9 City driving 500-580 depending on my right foot.

Hwy: i drove to narooma last year.... and drove around there for 4 days all one 1 tank. did 849 kms from 1 tank.

[kjs]

Just filled up my '12 cu2 manual with 62.8 litres of 98 pulp. Last tank travelled 743km showing about 50km to empty in 100% urban Syd at an Avg of 8.2l/100km . happy with that!