***HELP*** Driver Door Ajar Sensor (open/close) not working

[wammies]

Need help here. My driver's side door ajar sensor isn't working.

I've tried troubleshooting the problem, all the power windows, central locking and speakers are all working, I get a power reading of 12V and 9V for my courtesy light.

For all the other doors, the interior lights turn on when open and the door ajars are working when I press them.

The driver's door ajar, however, isn't registered by the car that it's open. I don't see the red line/light for the drivers door on the dashboard when it's open. Light's won't turn on either.

I've checked the connection from the inside, and it's secure, not sure what/where the problem is. I have a feeling it may be the Body Control Module (BCM). But I am not sure where it is and which wires/pins to look at.

Could also possibly be the wiring, I am not sure how to take out the drivers door panel, so any tips or advance on how to would be much welcomed as I don't want to pull too hard and break something or wrap the plastic.

Any help or advise would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!!

23390

23391

[Jasemas]

Maybe that black rubber housing from the first pic isn't working?
Im sure you can peel back the rubber and test the voltage/ground/connection to it?

[wammies]

The black rubber housing you're referring to is the door ajar.

I've tested it, no reading. Bolt's really firmly secured too.

[Jasemas]

Maybe the light in the dash is out?

[wammies]

narh, it's probably 2 things:
1) the connection to the BCM or
2) the wiring is disconnected somewhere (i.e. in the driver door panel)


If someone can link me to how I can remove the driver door panel and the fuse panel, that would be awesome!!

I can almost get it out, but there's just something that's keeping it stuck in, I don't wanna just yank it out with brute force as I might snap/break it.

[wammies]

@ Moderators, would you be able to move this to a general discussion forum rather than model specific?

[aaronng]

The black door switch has probably failed. Could be corrosion in there.

[wammies]

The black door switch has probably failed. Could be corrosion in there.

No, no signs of corrosion. Though I wish it were that simple. I've taken it rubber cover off and it's perfectly fine, no current/voltage reading though..

Would you happen to know how to take the driver's door panel off by any chance Aaron?

[GU357]

test all the wires going into it for power.

removing the drivers door? dont see why that would help but im not sure of the model.

should be removable by searching for screws in all the common places.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?58057-Removing-Door-Trim

sometimes the light is actually controlling that circuit so to speak. so if the LED is broken in the cluster then the current wont go through and tell the switch to turn on the light.
dont know if thats your case or not.

but in your fuse box, you could find some more clues, i remember my door open sensors on the jazz went to the fuse box for some reason.

[wammies]

I'm referring to the door panel (the plastic bit where the boot/petrol cap lever is. not the door trim. I've removed the door trim countless times, so have no problems with that.) As I've said, the power windows, central locking are all functional. I've checked the socket inside the door that's covered in sealant, just to be sure.
The car just won't register that the door's open.

I've tried switching it with other bulbs, and used the original OSRAMs which were in perfect working order. However, not one bulb was lit. I've tested the power readings of the socket and has a 12V and 9V reading. So there is power to it. It won't turn on because the car doesn't see that the door's open.

I've checked the interior fuse panel and under-bonnet one too. There are no broken fuses.


I checked the bolt again, and found there was a resistance reading (same thing went for other doors too). I'll try to get a reading for the wires, but it's kind of hard with the middle door panel in the way (the plastic bit on the side where the seat belt is). I can't remove it without first removing the driver's door panel.

Has anyone been able to remove these 2 pieces?

[aaronng]

No, no signs of corrosion. Though I wish it were that simple. I've taken it rubber cover off and it's perfectly fine, no current/voltage reading though..

Would you happen to know how to take the driver's door panel off by any chance Aaron?

The door panel on the bottom next to the boot lever? Yeah, it's just one of those "pull carefully" type of trim. There are no clips or screws. I can get more detailed info for you once I get home. With that off, you should be able to trace the wire back to the fusebox, hopefully it is just a loose connection since you are not getting 12V to the switch in the first place.

[aaronng]

Has anyone been able to remove these 2 pieces?
Yes I have, you start with the plastic trim that is just next to the boot lever (no clips, just remove carefully by seeing the order of the pieces), once that is out, you work backwards to the B-pillar trim, which should have a christmas tree clip holding it down. I remember pulling the whole thing out to install the power wires for Air runners on a mate's CL9.

Will get you the info tonight anyway. I've got the service manual.

[GU357]

No, no signs of corrosion. Though I wish it were that simple. I've taken it rubber cover off and it's perfectly fine, no current/voltage reading though..

Would you happen to know how to take the driver's door panel off by any chance Aaron?

u mean the KICK panel!

[wammies]

u mean the KICK panel!

Isn't the kick panel the bit underneath the steering wheel.... it's where the coin box and VSA switches are...

[wammies]

@Aaron, thanks for the info, just seems like a bitch to take off. I just shoved the speaker cables from underneath since I couldn't take it out when I wired the front driver's. If you can just pull it out carefully then I might, coz it felt like there was something holding it down.

[aaronng]

Sorry, fell asleep early last night on the sofa. Will try again tonight.

Edit: Here you go. This is for a LHD model, but it actually shows the driver's side. So just follow this in a mirrored fashion. Take note of clips A and B, these are christmas tree style clips designed to go in and not come out. You can remove them, but there is a chance that they can break. No problem though since there is usually enough remaining to secure the trim back on, but you can buy replacements from Repco anyway.

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/521/clipboard01dfl.jpg

[wammies]

Thanks Aaron!!

[wammies]

Kinda didn't quite know what you meant when I first read it, but kinda just figured out there was something keeping the boot lever held down. So I just pried that piece out. I'll upload a picture for easier reference if anyone has trouble with it in the future.

Anyways, there were readings from the female socket in the centre pillar without the socket in and readings to the socket as well. Though I should cross-check it another door.

In regards to tracing the wire back to see where it goes, I can't really see where the wire goes as all the wires get bundled together.

If anyone can show me where the Body Control Module (BCM) is, and would be even more helpful if they know which pin the driver's door ajar is, that would be great. Just want to see if there's any signal going to the BCM.

Though I'm starting to get the feeling I should leave this matter to the hands of a specialist.

[wammies]

Did some research and found this:

http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/655319-post5.html

Can someone clarify that this is the same with our Euro's

[aaronng]

Should be similar. BCU should be behind the panel where the bonnet release lever is (just to the right of the accelerator pedal.