Euro - replacement for OEM 16" Dunlop 2050E's ?

[exISeuro]

Hi guys

This questions applies to those who have 2003/2004 euros with the 16"s.

Have you replaced the OEM dunlops 205/55/16"s ? mine are currently 2mm from the indicators (i.e soon to be defect). I've done 20.5K on them and now looking into replacements.

Im interested in ...

1) Dunlop Direzza DZ101
2) Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3

any thoughts ?

If yous are wondering how i've worn out my tyres in 20,000km
i average 1000km a week and 300 of those kms on a friday or saturday night up and down twisties with my mates.

I dont really yearn to nor can i afford to upgrade to 17/18"s, besides i kind of like the gutter buffer of the fat 16's.

Mano ;)

[REV888]

I would highly highly recommend a set of Yokohamas C Drive :D:D Awesome tyre :D :D Heeps of grip in all situations when I change my tyres that's what Im going to get.

[EuroAccord13]

Any tyres except GoodYear Eagle F1

[gelo]

dz101

[jolt]

I'm in a similar position to you, I'll be replacing the Euro tyres soon with something in 16". I have Yokohama ES100's in 17" on my MX5 and I'm pretty happy with them but would like to try something different on the Euro. They provide much better grip than the following tyres:
- standard MX5
- standard Euro
- standard 200SX S15
- Dunlop FM901 (on 200SX S15)
- Dunlop SP Sport 9000 (on 200SX S15)

Don't be put off by the Goodyear Eagle F1 part of the name on the GS-D3's, apparently they are MUCH better than previous/other Goodyear Eagle F1's. I have heard some good reviews about them from people who have actually owned them.

I highly recommend the Yoko ES100, but I will most likely get the GS-D3's for my Euro as they appear to be a fair bit cheaper than the equivalent in Yoko ES100 if my memory serves me correctly.

Rod

[SSML]

I'm in a similar position to you, I'll be replacing the Euro tyres soon with something in 16". I have Yokohama ES100's in 17" on my MX5 and I'm pretty happy with them but would like to try something different on the Euro.

Rod

yeah, Yoko definately provide u good grip.
my mate's S15 (205-55-16) had a set of Yoko AVS sport V102 (top of range), great handling esp in wet, but wear out fast. he than "downgraded" to C-drive (see REV888's post) as suggested by the tyre shop.
C-drive is cheaper, much quieter esp. on 2nd grade surface.more comfy. but he can feel not as grippy on wet surface..... but that's on a 6MT turbo FR without any kind of traction control on board.

[jolt]

I really wanted to get V102's for my MX5 but unfortunately they didn't come in the size I needed to maintain similar rolling diameter to stock 16's (215/40 17).

Rod

[viperx]

if you're going for c drive type price in the yoko range, keep in mind it has a softer sidewall than the a539 (same price)... it doesnt point quite as well. I compared and got some advice from numerous people, and chose the a539 over the c drive. no regrets whatsoever

[SSML]

if you're going for c drive type price in the yoko range, keep in mind it has a softer sidewall than the a539 (same price)... it doesnt point quite as well. I compared and got some advice from numerous people, and chose the a539 over the c drive. no regrets whatsoever

yes, totally agree with u. I got A539 on my other car 225-60-15. it's noiser thou.so really depend on what u r looking for

[PNR888]

Hi guys

Im interested in ...

1) Dunlop Direzza DZ101
2) Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3

any thoughts ?

Mano ;)

Hi:
My SP2050 probably got another 5000km to go. 10000km if lucky.

I've been talking to Beaurepair tyre shop. They carry both Goodyear and Dunlop. Dunlop Direzza is relatively new tyre. still quite expansive. I have seen any review from magazine yet? But GY F1 GS-D3 has a lot of good review and good socres in many car magazine comparasion both here and in europe. Not so sure about the retail price though. :confused:

Maybe members who have changed their 16's can post up their tyre model, and comparasion with original tyre and costs.

[industrie]

wouldnt waste my time with the tyres you suggested...if you want a good performance tyre get the Dunlop SP Sport 9000 ..there a good bang for your buck...any jap tyre is shit..remember it depends how you drive

[exISeuro]

wouldnt waste my time with the tyres you suggested...if you want a good performance tyre get the Dunlop SP Sport 9000 ..there a good bang for your buck...any jap tyre is shit..remember it depends how you drive
The Dunlop SP Sport 9000's were the OEM tyre on my IS200 (215/45/17).
I agree with you these tyres were great ( dry grip / wet grip / comfort / low noise ) but when the time came to replace those, every shop was asking $375-$400.
I dont know whether it was because they were talking to a kid driving a Lexus or whatever else, but other reasons for the cost where "oh these are made in japan" or
"these are now discontinued."

The Dunlop SP Sport 9000's last 43,000km while these Dunlop 2050M's wont go past 25,000km.

For those who are worried about the tyres only lasting 25,000km remember that i drive maybe 700km city/freeway driving and 300km of twisty thrashing
almost on a weekly basis.

Still havent saved any money, so i'll post which tyres i end up going with in a few weeks.

Mano.

[jolt]

Just remember tyre costs are usually a reverse economy, the more they cost, the less km's you'll get out of them because they're most likely going to be grippier.

The SP Sport 9000's are a bit of an exception because they have such a high silicon content (which gives high grip without the high wear). I managed to pick up a set for my S15 for $1,000 in 235/45-17 through Tempe Tyres or Australia's Best, can't remember which one, because they're parallel imports.


any jap tyre is shit
I must be missing something, or perhaps you are ... your brain ... :rolleyes:

Rod

[baboo]

wouldnt waste my time with the tyres you suggested...if you want a good performance tyre get the Dunlop SP Sport 9000 ..there a good bang for your buck...any jap tyre is shit..remember it depends how you drive

Most Dunlops are made in Japan. They are Japanese tyres too.


any jap tyre is shit


I would rephrase that if I were you, you obviously haven't try anything that's performance oriented.

[SSML]

Just remember tyre costs are usually a reverse economy, the more they cost, the less km's you'll get out of them because they're most likely going to be grippier.

The SP Sport 9000's are a bit of an exception because they have such a high silicon content (which gives high grip without the high wear). I managed to pick up a set for my S15 for $1,000 in 235/45-17 through Tempe Tyres or Australia's Best, can't remember which one, because they're parallel imports.


I must be missing something, or perhaps you are ... your brain ... :rolleyes:

Rod

Totally agree, SP9000 on my IS200 still got about 30%, and it's done nearly 50,000KM. great grip, and it's MADE IS JAPAN. still Dunlop's internatinal flagship UHP tyre.
hey Jolt, $1000 for a set of 17"sp9000, I think that's a bargain. maybe b/c it's 235-45-17 popular size? I got quoted over $320 /tyre for 215-45-17

[jolt]

Yeah it was much cheaper than another friend paid for his tyres in exactly the same size.

SP Sport 9000's became standard fitment to XR6/8 and SS later on in that size, so I'd imagine they're more easily available at that price in that size.

Rod

[MiSloVic]

i will take GY F1 gsd3 anytime. they are one of the best tires. good dry and wet grip and it is comfortable and quiet for its size.

DZ101's dry grip will be better than F1, but the F1 beats any tires in the wet.

[REV888]

Needing a tyre for my new Full Size Rim which will replace the space saver :D:D

Anyone know how much the Dunlop SP 9000's are in a 16" 205/55 Size ?

[euro77]

what about bridgestone s03? they seems alright :)
I just found out that the OEM dunlop is not so grippy on the wet. last night was a bit wet, and I am driving through twisties, and boy it scares me a lot, the tyre just don't have much grip at all. that's with VSA off.

[SSML]

Needing a tyre for my new Full Size Rim which will replace the space saver :D:D

Anyone know how much the Dunlop SP 9000's are in a 16" 205/55 Size ?
Hi Rev:
If u still got OEM 2050, why dont u just get a used 2050 from another owner for the time being. (e.g. if another owner is replacing all 4 2050s, then u get the least worn tyre).

If u want to put a new tyre on ur spare (e.g. SP9000), I would suggest that its going to be the same tyre u going to use for ur other 4 when it's time for replacing them. so that u can rotate all 5 tyres to maximise life of ur tyres...

One other point: if u r putting an "uni-directial" tyre (e.g. SP9000)for the spare. it's better to ask the tyre shop to fit the tyre for LEFT SIDE, as LEFT side wear faster in general

[REV888]

Hi Rev:
If u still got OEM 2050, why dont u just get a used 2050 from another owner for the time being. (e.g. if another owner is replacing all 4 2050s, then u get the least worn tyre).

If u want to put a new tyre on ur spare (e.g. SP9000), I would suggest that its going to be the same tyre u going to use for ur other 4 when it's time for replacing them. so that u can rotate all 5 tyres to maximise life of ur tyres...

One other point: if u r putting an "uni-directial" tyre (e.g. SP9000)for the spare. it's better to ask the tyre shop to fit the tyre for LEFT SIDE, as LEFT side wear faster in general


My exact intentions :D:D Next set of tyres are to be Dunlop SP9000 or a set of Yoko V550 or C Drive.

Thanks for the info/advice

Cheers

REV888 ;)

[qmjona]

How about these new 'airless' tyres from Michelin?
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/508/238155-med.jpg
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/508/2381111111-med.jpg
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=508

[PNR888]

How about these new 'airless' tyres from Michelin?
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/508/238155-med.jpg
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/508/2381111111-med.jpg
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=508

How do they compare with conventional tyres? Are they in production line yet? Are they or will they be legal in Australia? or any other country? :confused:

[qmjona]

Sounds like some time off, if they get up at all, but would get some looks.

From a michelin website:
Michelin Tweel is the fusion of the tyre and the wheel with the potential to transform mobility. Available now for lower-speed, lower-weight carrying vehicles, Tweel is in the prototype stage for passenger car applications. Tweel delivers the benefits of pneumatic radial tyre performance while dramatically increasing lateral stiffness, which affects handling, cornering and responsiveness. Additionally, Tweel has suspension-like characteristics that can simplify and in some applications eliminate the need for a separate vehicle suspension.

"The Tweel automotive application, as demonstrated on the Audi, is definitely a concept, a stretch application with strong future potential," said Gettys. "Our concentration is to enter the market with lower-speed, lower-weight Tweel applications. What we learn from our early successes will be applied to Tweel fitments for passenger cars and beyond."

http://www.michelinman.com/difference/releases/pressrelease01102005a.html

[PNR888]

qmjona: thanks for the reply. very interesting read. maybe it will be the trand for the next generation car.

[albii]

i had kelly tyres on my previous car (forester gt) in 235/45/17 size and they were brilliant.no noise and heaps of grip and they take ages to wear....$190 ea too

[PNR888]

That's bloody cheap for 17". Albii, what model of Kelly's you had? can you remember?

[yfin]

That's bloody cheap for 17". Albii, what model of Kelly's you had? can you remember?

That is not really a bargain - when I was buying 17" you can get Goodyear F1 for $180 as well as the Falken's I have.

Believe it or not a 235 wide tyre in 17" is cheaper than a 225 wide 17" tyre.

[albii]

That's bloody cheap for 17". Albii, what model of Kelly's you had? can you remember?
kelly charger 2 and they were really quiet.

[exISeuro]

Ok guys after 28000km on my original Dunlop 2050M's i have replaced them with Toyo Proxes T1-R's.

Toyo's flagship ultra high performance tire which has replaced the Proxes T1-S.

205/55/16 priced between $192.50 to $250.00 per tire (It pays to shop around).

Driving Impression:
Normal driving: Very comfortable, just as good as the OEM dunlops. Quiet ride.
Wet driving: TBA
Spirited driving: TBA

[PNR888]

Ok guys after 28000km on my original Dunlop 2050M's i have replaced them with Toyo Proxes T1-R's.

Toyo's flagship ultra high performance tire which has replaced the Proxes T1-S.



I had a set of TOYO T1-S for my V6 Camry in the past. 16" as well, they are good all rounders, they have silicate compound incoperated too.

[SSML]

Ok guys after 28000km on my original Dunlop 2050M's i have replaced them with Toyo Proxes T1-R's.

Toyo's flagship ultra high performance tire which has replaced the Proxes T1-S.

205/55/16 priced between $192.50 to $250.00 per tire (It pays to shop around).
[u]


Hi Mano:
the price seems to be good.
As PNR888 said, I loved the T1-S, same size too. we paid $200 when it just relised onto the market.... but it last ~ 20,000KM...but it was on a V6 5MT camry without anykind of Traction control :D .

I must check out what the new design of T1-R looks like

oneof my frined with 03 Euro, he had to replace a flat and damaged OEM 2050M. he paid $240 for 1 tyre (2050M) what a rip off..

[jamchen]

http://www.tirerack.com/
this is a brilliant website! but just be careful this website is US-based so check whether the local shops have those tyres or not.... but it provides you with reviews and ratings tyre to tyre... very helpful :wave:

[Ronin]

Bridgestone S-03 - one of the best tyres i've driven on. The response and handling was second to none. I'm not too sure about the GY F1... Was good on first feel, but when pushed hard, did not respond wella s the S-03. They're bit expensive, and may not last as long, but heck, they were one hell of a tyre!!

It was amazing the feedback through to the steering wheel!

[Ronin]

Well - I've decided to try out the C drives from Yokohama. I got them for $225 each - and chose the size 225 by 50 by 16. Would there be any issues with the wider tyres?? BTW - i just replaced the front pair.

I'm letting them wear in before i comment, but so far they feel softish - maybe due to the soft sidewall and extra width. And YES - they don't point as well as someone mentioned above. Donnellans were selling the S03 for $250.. hmm we'll see how these go and if ineed to change the other two, i'll look at my options again.

I have a pair of at about 85% 2050m's ups for grab if anyone wants. $75 each. or best offer. you can still see the original colored lines in the grooves.

[V205]

Anyone gone from Yokohama A509 to Yokohama A539 on the same size/profile on the same car? My understanding that A539 has softer sidewalls than the A509. I loved the A509 on my prelude!

Now I'm hearing that the Yokohama C-Drive has softer sidewalls than the A539... why are sidewalls getting softer and softer?? Lemme guess.. cheaper to make!?

Squishy sidewalls sux!

[euro77]

softer sidewalls means softer ride, so I guess it's more towards increasing ride comfort.

[Ronin]

Anyone know how the 225 will compare with the 205 interms of effects?

[euro77]

providing it's same model, 225 should provide more grip as there are more contact area between the tyre and the road.

[Ronin]

In that case, the sidewalls of the C.Drives are very soft... you can actually feel them flex as you take a corner.

[SSML]

[QUOTE=Ronin]Anyone know how the 225 will compare with the 205 interms of effects?[/QUOTE
225 has more surface contact to the road than 205, so better grip, but at the smae time, noiser, and increase in fuel consumption. and slower top speed (in theory)

[V205]

So which tyre brand/model has stiffer sidewalls than Yokohama A539?

[Ronin]

Supprise - C.Drives not as good as the Dunlop 2050m. This morning I drove to work and nearly hit a corner post after sliding 2m!!! Sh*t... I was like where's the grip. Hopefully it improves as i wear it down a bit more.

[albii]

Supprise - C.Drives not as good as the Dunlop 2050m. This morning I drove to work and nearly hit a corner post after sliding 2m!!! Sh*t... I was like where's the grip. Hopefully it improves as i wear it down a bit more.
fark scary shit. :thumbdwn:

[euro77]

Supprise - C.Drives not as good as the Dunlop 2050m. This morning I drove to work and nearly hit a corner post after sliding 2m!!! Sh*t... I was like where's the grip. Hopefully it improves as i wear it down a bit more.

All new tyres need to be scrubbed in first, as they all are covered in a thin layer of 'something' (sorry, don't know what this something is), and it's quite slippery. at least 100km for the layer to be properly scrubbed, but some reported up to 500km

[Ronin]

Well i've covered about 150km and this morning.. i was spinning in 2nd gear taking a corner to 90km/hr!! It was a bit moist on the road but still - i hope that the performance improves.

[yfin]

I just changed my tyres today from Falken Ziex 512.

I have fitted Dunlop SP Sport 3000A tyres in 235 / 45 / 17. They cost me around $185 each fitted and balanced which was a pretty good as most places wanted over $240 per corner.

http://www.dunloptyres.com.au/sp3000a/sp3000a.htm

Anyway - those who know me will agree when I say it is hard to impress me. With that in mind all I can say is that these tyres are FANTASTIC. Woo hoo! I have struck gold. :D

I was a little hesitant at first as these tyres are standard fitment on the new XR6 and XR8. They are also made in AUSTRALIA (using a Japanese mould). Made me worry.

Anyway - I opened up the yellow pages and asked tyre dealers about this model. They all said "yeah - good tyre". One chap knew a lot more about them and said they were developed with V8 Supercar drivers in Australia, blah blah.

I was then about to stretch my money to Goodyear GSD3s for an extra $50 per corner then thought - bugger it - I wear tyres too easily. Lets get the Dunlops.

Now - the size. 235 is the perfect size if you have 7.5 inch wide rims. It really is perfect. The ride is softer and the tyres fill the wheel arches better. The car LOOKS better and the rims are protected more as the 235 bulges the rim (if you know what i mean). The speedo is only marginally effected - 1.8%. Far less wheel hop too!

These are NOT directional tyres (compared to the Falkens and lots of other performance tyres out there). They are therefore quieter and it is easier to get more consistent tread wear as you can rotate the tyres left to right.

Overall - there is no comparison to my Falken 512 tyres (which cost around the same and are Japanese and silica). The Dunlops GRIP like crazy. Sure I have gone up from 225 size tyres but this is soooo much better than my Falken tyres and the stock 16".

The tyres are noticeably stiffer in the sidewalls too - less roll and flex.

Wet performance? To be advised. I am hopeful and things can only get better compared to my 512s!

These tyres get my thumbs up :thumbsup: Highly recommended.

P.s. There is one downside. With the upsize to 235 - I have added unsprung weight to the equation. These Dunlops are heavy compared to the 512s (more rubber, bigger size, different manufacturing techniques etc). I guess it is a small price to pay.

[aaronng]

Anyone can suggest a place to shop for Dunlops in Sydney? Tempe Tyres or Bob Jane T-Mart?

[yfin]

Anyone can suggest a place to shop for Dunlops in Sydney? Tempe Tyres or Bob Jane T-Mart?

Most tyre dealers can get you Dunlops. I happened to get mine from Bob-Jane. You do need to shop around as the prices vary heaps.

For those of you with 18" rims - the SP SPORT 3000A will be available in that size very soon.


****Update - these are good in the wet too!!! My Falkens would trigger traction control with 100% throttle in 2nd gear. With these - just grip - traction control stays off. You can still spin in 1st gear if heavy on throttle - but I would expect that with any tyre in the wet.

[Slugoid]

Bumpy!

Just see what newer members think cos I need to replace my tyres soon.

So far I looking at:

1. Yokohama C-drive/A539
2. Dunlop Sport 3000A

[PNR888]

Bumpy!

Just see what newer members think cos I need to replace my tyres soon.

So far I looking at:

1. Yokohama C-drive/A539
2. Dunlop Sport 3000A


Hi Slugoid:
these two models are the ones I am interested in too... They are not Ultrahigh Performance tyres but good all rounders for Euro OEM replacement.

Both have asymmetrical pattern (inside/outside) and can do cross rotation, so probably can squeeze more milage out of them if rotated correctly..

Yoko C-Drive is Jap made and reasonable new to the market compare to Aussie made high quality Dunlop S 3000A. Falcon XR series has 3000A as OEM.


For 16", Honda dealer (Austral) Quoted me $225 each for Dunlop S3000A.
K-mart Sunnybank $195 each

For Yoko C-drive, $225 each at Bob-Jane Mt.Ommaney.. (In Brisbane)

[Slugoid]

I can get C-drives for $205 each, but I heard the sidewalls are softer than the A538's. Since price difference is so little, I think I'll try the Yoko's first and next time I'll try the dunlops. The stock dunlops i've got atm didn't leave me with a great impression so I think I'll try something new this time.

[kenbo]

Hi guys,

Newbie here. Love the forum. Apologies if this question has been asked before ;

With the OEM tyres from The MY05 Euro, are the the Dunlop 2050M 205/55/R16 good,bad or average. How many km's should it last ? I have heard from some dealers that they start peeling after 10,000k! I thought the trye should last an average of 50-70,000kms.

[aaronng]

Hi kenbo, welcome to the forums! The Dunlop 2050M, being a tyre made for OEM is meant to work under acceptable conditions. If you like to corner hard or spin your tyres in the dry or wet, I find that the 2050M is prone to pitting or losing chunks of its rubber. I'm at 14000km now and I haven't seen any peeling yet. I don't take my car to the track nor participate in drags (both legal and illegal), so I expect a lot more wear from my tyres. At the rate I am going, I am confident to exceed 50,000km. All it depends on is if the tyre starts to lose chunks of rubber before I even reach that mileage.

I find that in the dry, the 2050M is adequate, while in the wet, it is quite prone to losing grip. In 1st gear 1/2 throttle, I get wheel spin at 4000rpm, and taking a corner at 30km/h means losing front end grip, both in the wet. As above, I too am looking forward to switching to the 3000A or Yoko's C. or A.drives. The prices I got for 205/55 R16 are $189 for 3000A and $205 for the C.drive.

[yfin]

At the rate I am going, I am confident to exceed 50,000km.

If you get 50k out of those Dunlops you have done really well.

I only had my Dunlops on for 3000-4000kms (changed to 17"). In that time they were showing obvious wear. IMO if you get 30-35k out of the stockies you have done well.

My new tyres Dunlop 3000As appear to be wearing better than the 2050M - but I still don't expect more than 30k out of them. By the way if you are changing the stock 16" - see if you can go any wider on the stock rim without drastically impacting rolling diametre (eg 215). I haven't done the calculations but thought I would raise this anyway.

[aaronng]

I think it depends on the driving style. As I am an advocate of driving like a granny (and I have mudflaps to match too :D ), I think I can get 50,000km out of it. On the Astra with Dunlop 2020e, I'm already at 49,800km on the original tyres! The only downside is that chunks of rubber are being torn off and the sidewall has suffered tearing in the rubber layer. There is about 1.5mm of thread left, still above the tyre wear indicator, but because the rubber has hardened, I get very very little grip! Going to get them changed to C.drives next month.

[mcb]

By the way if you are changing the stock 16" - see if you can go any wider on the stock rim without drastically impacting rolling diametre (eg 215). I haven't done the calculations but thought I would raise this anyway.

I recalled seeing a good website somewhere for doing these calcs and have just found it again at http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/tyre_bible.html

In summary 205/55/16 = rolling radius of 315.95 and 215/55/16 = 321.45, or a 1.74% difference.

[Eurotony]

I got 53k out of my OEM tyres. I managed to buy a set of brand new OEM wheels & tyres for $500
I have just put the new set on last week end. I have kept 2 of the origional wheels & tyres as spares & had 2 stripped down to the rims. I would say that there is at least 10k more left in the ones that i kept mounted. I got fed up with the dealer ringing me at service time & telling me that I needed new tyres because they were a little rounded on the edges.

[aaronng]

Does anyone know how the Euro's VSA copes with a larger rolling diameter? Also, if you are going for wider tyres, it is good to get your suspension realigned.

[yfin]

I got 53k out of my OEM tyres. I managed to buy a set of brand new OEM wheels & tyres for $500
I have just put the new set on last week end. I have kept 2 of the origional wheels & tyres as spares & had 2 stripped down to the rims. I would say that there is at least 10k more left in the ones that i kept mounted. I got fed up with the dealer ringing me at service time & telling me that I needed new tyres because they were a little rounded on the edges.

If your dealer was saying you needed new tyres - you probably did. The tread needs to be roadworthy across the tyre - bald edges is not ok.

[yfin]

Does anyone know how the Euro's VSA copes with a larger rolling diameter? Also, if you are going for wider tyres, it is good to get your suspension realigned.

Seems to work fine - I have tried 225/45/17 and 235/45/17 - slightly larger diameter - both traction and oversteer / understeer correction work fine. When you say suspension realigned what do you mean - wheel alignment?

[aaronng]

Seems to work fine - I have tried 225/45/17 and 235/45/17 - slightly larger diameter - both traction and oversteer / understeer correction work fine. When you say suspension realigned what do you mean - wheel alignment?
Not wheel alignment... but suspension geometry. I know that each suspension setup is tailored to a particular width of the tyre. The suspension can cope with increasing the rolling diameter, but when you increase the width, the camber which is stock at -1.0 I think, will exert added force on the edge of the wider tyres.

But I think 215 should be ok as Whiteline's site says it's usually when extremely wide tyres are used the handling becomes worse because of inappropriate camber.

[yfin]

Not wheel alignment... but suspension geometry. I know that each suspension setup is tailored to a particular width of the tyre. The suspension can cope with increasing the rolling diameter, but when you increase the width, the camber which is stock at -1.0 I think, will exert added force on the edge of the wider tyres.


Whenever I have changed tyres (ie to 225/45 and 235/45) I always get a laser alignment. Going wider has not pushed camber, toe, etc outside the OEM spec range. It was well within the ranges.

The only time I have seen a change outside OEM range is rear camber when I lowered the car with the Cl9 sports suspension. That was expected - still haven't decided whether to get a camber kit. The rear tyres seem to be holding up fine despite -2 ish camber.

[Eurotony]

If your dealer was saying you needed new tyres - you probably did. The tread needs to be roadworthy across the tyre - bald edges is not ok.

I realise that the dealer was looking after my best interest's & I appreciate that. I have been around cars for many, many years & I know what is legal & what is not as far as tyres go. Yes the edges were worn, probably due to under inflation I think & a very hard run up Mt Tamborine one evening, but the tyres were still very servicable. 50k was not a bad run for the tyres though compared to what some are saying they are obtaining. :D

[aaronng]

Whenever I have changed tyres (ie to 225/45 and 235/45) I always get a laser alignment. Going wider has not pushed camber, toe, etc outside the OEM spec range. It was well within the ranges.

The only time I have seen a change outside OEM range is rear camber when I lowered the car with the Cl9 sports suspension. That was expected - still haven't decided whether to get a camber kit. The rear tyres seem to be holding up fine despite -2 ish camber.
The camber stays the same with wider tyres, but wear on the edges might be higher. BUt since your 235s did not have problems as long as it was aligned, then I'll give wider tyres a go in the future. How long did your 225s last?

[yfin]

The camber stays the same with wider tyres, but wear on the edges might be higher. BUt since your 235s did not have problems as long as it was aligned, then I'll give wider tyres a go in the future. How long did your 225s last?

I didn't keep the 225s very long - around 27,000k. They were still roadworthy Falken 512s (I could have stretched the life to 32-35k if I wanted) but I wanted to get rid of them. They were good tyres in the beginning (up till 20k) but the performance started to dropped off in the wet in a major way. Even very gentle take off in the wet would trigger traction control. The final straw was a trip up north WA - I was doing 100kph in heavy rain in 6th gear. I then downshifted to 4th to overtake. Once in 4th gear I applied the throttle to overtake. The VSA light started flashing as the wheels were obviously spinning.

When you can trigger traction control in 4th you know it is time to change tyres (no matter how much tread appears to be left). :p

[aaronng]

OMG! That's bad. That's one tyre off my to try list. :)

[kenbo]

I got 53k out of my OEM tyres. I managed to buy a set of brand new OEM wheels & tyres for $500
I have just put the new set on last week end. I have kept 2 of the origional wheels & tyres as spares & had 2 stripped down to the rims. I would say that there is at least 10k more left in the ones that i kept mounted. I got fed up with the dealer ringing me at service time & telling me that I needed new tyres because they were a little rounded on the edges.

Hi Eurotoy,

Can you mount the OEM rims of the Accord Euro, say to a 92 Civic Si or any of the newer Civics or even the Jazz. What would you do with 4 spare rims?

[BiLL|z0r]

The accord is 5 stud, so no.

[Omotesando]

Some tyres mentioned on here were tested in MOTOR Dec issue 2005!

Newer Goodyear Eagle F1 - btw agreed old one was crap. Hard high grip initially but loses wet grip majorly only after short time. Didn't want to track straight either was sliding all over the place, even with right alignment/balance. Hope the new one is heaps better as a good as MOTOR saids.

Toyo Prozes T1-R - never tried.

Dunlop Sport Maxx - this Dunlop is Made in Germany! Not Aust or Japan, wow!

Bridgestone S-03s - awesome in the dry but not so flashy in the wet. Lateral grip wasn't there. Need a lot of time to warm up as I have used these before. Better than those Bridgies Potenza G-III these had very little sidewall stiffness for a performance tyre. Grip wasn't that good either! Don't think I will be buying Bridgestones again to be honest!


My next tyre to use would be - KUMHO ECSTA Sport. Never used them, but did alright in MOTOR and relatively cheaper! Don't think they will last that long though from others' opinions of KUMHO tyres. Would like to try it once just to see anyway!

[game_accord]

Just curious what is the tyre size and load rating suppose to be for a 2004 accord Euro luxury?

[corn_flakes]

does anyone still have a spare dunlop sp sport 2050m that is unused in their boot? i want to buy this off you. lol.

[SPQR]

does anyone still have a spare dunlop sp sport 2050m that is unused in their boot? i want to buy this off you. lol.

Last time I looked, it had morphed into one of those space-saver type tyres. But the amazing thing is that the rim morphed into a space saver rim too.