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View Full Version : EM1 broke down, won't start :( Please help.



kraiye
25-12-2012, 02:59 PM
Hi guys,

Firstly, Merry Christmas! :)

Was heading to the beach yesterday doing about 50kmh when the engine just cut out. NRMA had a brief look at the fuses and checked for spark but ended up towing it home.

There's no spark anymore. Everything else has power - the fuel pump primes, the engine cranks but it just won't fire. Any ideas where to start looking? I had a bad earth a few months ago which caused sort of similar problems but the earths seem ok.

FYI I have an S300 and stune 2.2.3.

Cheers.

Boznian
25-12-2012, 03:43 PM
Have you looked at the main relay? i had some similar problems as you, but i could clutch start the car tho..

Boznian
25-12-2012, 03:44 PM
heres a detailed video on it


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viIZ8k60awY

cbauto
25-12-2012, 05:07 PM
step by step elimination process from battery to spark plugs.

battery, fuse, ecu, wires, dizzy, leads, spark plugs.


most likely dizzy

stndrd
25-12-2012, 05:22 PM
Sounds like crank angle sensor. Time to get a multi meter and fsm and follow the diagnostic procedure

cbauto
25-12-2012, 05:26 PM
Sounds like crank angle sensor. Time to get a multi meter and fsm and follow the diagnostic procedure

can tell by the pixels right?

DC2-PWR
25-12-2012, 07:42 PM
I had the same issue and it turned out to be a dead coil pack in the dizzy. I replaced that and the car fired back up. Costed me under $35 from Repco

Good luck,

VTec1987
25-12-2012, 09:14 PM
High chance it will be the dizzy ( Change coil) if it dies out while driving.

B series weakest link is the dizzy

mocchi
25-12-2012, 09:33 PM
Hi guys,

Firstly, Merry Christmas! :)

Was heading to the beach yesterday doing about 50kmh when the engine just cut out. NRMA had a brief look at the fuses and checked for spark but ended up towing it home.

There's no spark anymore. Everything else has power - the fuel pump primes, the engine cranks but it just won't fire. Any ideas where to start looking? I had a bad earth a few months ago which caused sort of similar problems but the earths seem ok.

FYI I have an S300 and stune 2.2.3.

Cheers.

so nrma checked fuses and checked for spark?
was there any spark?

dorikin
25-12-2012, 09:40 PM
Dizzy wizzy

ECU-MAN
25-12-2012, 10:15 PM
If the ECU still POST's then it could be the ICM, Coil or Rotor button

chow_tofu
26-12-2012, 12:18 AM
Most likely this coil pack aswell

I had the same issue just two weeks ago, ripped a turn and suddenly engine cut out and i was like ????

It would crank on and on as if there wasnt any petrol, but I sniffed the exhaust and there was sign of gas therefore fuel pump working.

New distrubutor is like $250, but Ijust changed the coil pack and bob was my uncle.

Hope this is the same case for you. Merry Christmas !!

kraiye
26-12-2012, 10:35 AM
you guys are legends.

boz - did all that last time i had electrical probs but thanks :)
mocchi - no spark mate. everything else seems good.

will replace the dizzy coil and see how that goes. thanks for the feedback.

one more question... how do you get the rotor button off? i thought they just popped on and off but mine seems stuck.
is there a trick to getting to the dizzy coil? i'm an 8 hour drive away from my civic service manual.

mocchi
26-12-2012, 12:08 PM
i think theres a screw on the side

kraiye
26-12-2012, 05:56 PM
there is a screw but i couldnt get to it so i cranked the engine to rotate the dizzy... it didn't move! ?????

took the timing belt cover off and got someone to crank the engine for me while i watched... timing belt is stripped. it's done about 65,000k's

so... what's a good brand timing belt for a built B16? Gates maybe? or just go with OEM?

stndrd
26-12-2012, 06:22 PM
Toda racing belt. You need to becareful that you havent had valve to valve or valve to piston issues.

This is how i would tackle it:
- fit new belt
- carry out compression & leak down test before attempting to start the car
- re evaluate and assess once you have found your findings

cbauto
26-12-2012, 09:03 PM
post picture of the belt.

borrow good working coil to try before forking out for an item that may work fine

mocchi
26-12-2012, 09:06 PM
there is a screw but i couldnt get to it so i cranked the engine to rotate the dizzy... it didn't move! ?????

took the timing belt cover off and got someone to crank the engine for me while i watched... timing belt is stripped. it's done about 65,000k's

so... what's a good brand timing belt for a built B16? Gates maybe? or just go with OEM?

gates is oem
ive seen gates brand on oem honda timing belt
gates stamp and honda stamp on the same belt

but most say made in japan honda

x2 pics of timing belt

kraiye
27-12-2012, 09:12 AM
looks like a dayco is the only one i can get in by tomorrow (hopefully not monday)

kraiye
28-12-2012, 08:23 PM
Question: does the crank pulley bolt have a normal thread? ie; lefty loosey?

just making sure.

mocchi
28-12-2012, 08:33 PM
Question: does the crank pulley bolt have a normal thread? ie; lefty loosey?

just making sure.

yea normal thread buddy
good luck on that bolt ay

kraiye
28-12-2012, 08:49 PM
lol yeah thanks

i snapped a spanner on the same bolt on my EK. got it with a rattle gun but i'm hard pressed finding one (or a decent breaker bar) to borrow.
any suggestions on stopping the crank from rotating?

mocchi
28-12-2012, 10:14 PM
stuff nylon rope through spark plug hole on cylinder that is on tdc. in/ex valves closed.
or use this tool, much better investment cos it stop engine from moving if youre doing this while engine is out.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzczWDEyMDA=/$(KGrHqF,!p8F!,SE)fZWBQSCE7,VIw~~60_3.JPG

or some electric rattle gun makita btw450 will do the job.

kraiye
30-12-2012, 06:02 PM
thanks mocchi. was looking into hiring an electric gun but wasnt sure if they'd be enough.
the rope is idea great! wishing i had of checked for replies this morning... spent half the day fabing a crank pulley holder!
anyway, pulley is off - only broke a 1/2" extender bar - but I cant get the lower plastic cover off now. all the bolts are out but its still holdin on tight.

kraiye
01-01-2013, 07:35 PM
timing belt done. took a long time to get the car started and it idles like crap - if at all!

was tired, hungover and pissed off and forgot to check compression/leakdown so can only pray i havent bent something!

it reved good but didn't idle well. it faultered under load when i tried to drive it out of the garage.

triple checked all the marks when i first installed the belt, rechecked belt tension, checked timing with a light and it seemed to be on 0 instead of 16 and rotating the dizzy didnt seem to make a difference either. would my s300 be affecting that?

i'm meant to be back home at work tomorrow and will be missing $200 a day till i can get this bloody thing sorted :(

stndrd
01-01-2013, 07:47 PM
Did you bridge the scc plug before you changed distributor timing?

I would carry out a leak down test before a comp test to see if any valves are bent

ECU-MAN
02-01-2013, 09:52 AM
ake sure you have not got the valve timing incorect

kraiye
02-01-2013, 12:04 PM
i was looking at the wrong spot. thought the timing was at zero but it's right. ie: on the red mark.
i just went and put cylinder 1 at TDC. the marks on the cams all aligned and the white notch on the crank pulley aligned with the timing marker.

i can't for the life of me find the bloody SCC! it's definitely not under the passenger side dash/kick panel!

anyway, gonna do what was suggested at the beginning - a leak down test

kraiye
02-01-2013, 02:07 PM
OUCH!
did a quick comp test... approx 185psi in cyl4, 0psi in 2&3 and about 20psi in cyl1

ECU-MAN
02-01-2013, 02:26 PM
you are ment to set the crank to the white single TDC mark then set the cam markings up.

if you set the crank to the timing mark then set the cams then valve timing is set wrong

sound like you have bent valves

kraiye
02-01-2013, 02:38 PM
cheers mate. i didnt explain the timing thing well... with engine off and set to TDC, the cammarkings and the white notch lines up right. with engine running and using the light the red notch lines up. i assume it's the same for Skunk2 Pro1 cams. i used to have the install notes for these but theyre on my computer at home... 8 hours away :( and google hasnt helped yet!

gonna recheck compression with some help - make sure the tester is sealing properly - but i'm not optimistic

ECU-MAN
02-01-2013, 02:58 PM
what you have written is correct.

if its low on compression you may have bent valves :(

kraiye
02-01-2013, 03:36 PM
cyl 1, 2, 3, 4
90psi, 0psi, 0psi, 220psi

gotta TRY to find the installation instructions for the Pro 1 cams to double check timing. If they're right I'll pull the head off.

stuff it... the head's coming off. don't think there's any chance I escaped a bent valve (or 2 or 4 etc) with high comp pistons and big cams.
now, to find a good head builder around this place?!

ECU-MAN
02-01-2013, 05:03 PM
good luck bud

stndrd
02-01-2013, 07:02 PM
Where are you located at this point in time?

Vvvtec
02-01-2013, 07:13 PM
ouch, sorry to hear that mate :(