Bad to have different types/brands of tyres??

[eren]

hey guys ,
i was checking tread on the car and just wanted to know if my tyres arent all the same brand etc. is that bad ?
one of them looks stretched .
well i know nothing about tyres but heres what i gathered .
i got 2 sets of : Kuhmo Ecstra Spt
1x : Radial F106 205/40/217 (this one looks stretched )
1x : Focus3000 Suntrac .

wheel's Lenso Samurai Super Light RT 7x17
ps: What PSI should i use ? thanks! :)

[Monique]

Are they all the same size?

[eren]

Are they all the same size?
from what i can see yee they are. but the tread patterns are different.

[eren]

rear tyres flat , need to go pump em up any recommended psi?? . on the Tyre it says not to go over 40psi .

[fillit]

If they are the same size and it's for daily driving then it's fine (put the matching pair on the front), the problems only come in if they are different compounds and you are driving it hard, you will find one side will grip better than the other or the fronts more than the rears.

Had that issue when i ran Toyo T1Rs on the front and Goodyear Grid 2s on the rear, was very tail happy on the track and touge, daily wise no problems.

As you're running lower profile tyres, try pumping it to 36psi (hot) and see you go. as it's summer once you get a bit of heat into them the psi will rise anyway.

[eren]

If they are the same size and it's for daily driving then it's fine (put the matching pair on the front), the problems only come in if they are different compounds and you are driving it hard, you will find one side will grip better than the other or the fronts more than the rears.

Had that issue when i ran Toyo T1Rs on the front and Goodyear Grid 2s on the rear, was very tail happy on the track and touge, daily wise no problems.

As you're running lower profile tyres, try pumping it to 36psi (hot) and see you go. as it's summer once you get a bit of heat into them the psi will rise anyway.

Thanks For the help +1 :) , i noticed when taking a turn hard my rear slides out , For example took a round about and felt like i was drifting lmao.

[.Dave]

i run mine at 35 psi, it shouldnt matter aslong as same dimension tyres (eg 195/50/15 on all corners) or whatever

[connorling]

The thinner the tyres, the higher psi u want. I have 205/40/17 tyres and I was told to pump it up to 40psi cold.
The higher psi, the better fuel economic. Less rolling resistance. But harsher ride

[eren]

switched the 2x kuhmo's to the front and pumped them all to 36psi car really handles corners better , bad thing tho i notice i feel every single thing i drive over feels like im getting raped bahaha .

[fillit]

The thinner the tyres, the higher psi u want. I have 205/40/17 tyres and I was told to pump it up to 40psi cold.
The higher psi, the better fuel economic. Less rolling resistance. But harsher ride

Don't you find 40psi a little too high? It would def give better fuel economy but sacrifice cornering, especially when it heats up you're going to be on 45 or even 50 (driving and weather dependent).

[eren]

Don't you find 40psi a little too high? It would def give better fuel economy but sacrifice cornering, especially when it heats up you're going to be on 45 or even 50 (driving and weather dependent).
i did 36 do you reckon thats good?

[fillit]

i did 36 do you reckon thats good?

It depends on alot of factors, I think 36 is a good PSI to start off with as it's quite neutral for a low profile tyre. As connorling bumped his up to 40psi for economy and I would drop it to 30psi for the track.

Just have a play around with it and see what you feel the most comfortable with.

[connorling]

It depends on alot of factors, I think 36 is a good PSI to start off with as it's quite neutral for a low profile tyre. As connorling bumped his up to 40psi for economy and I would drop it to 30psi for the track.

Just have a play around with it and see what you feel the most comfortable with.

Would it be better to hVe higher psi on the track so the side wall won't flex?
The instructor on the track tell me to pump the tyre pressure up on the track.

What is right?

[fillit]

Would it be better to hVe higher psi on the track so the side wall won't flex?
The instructor on the track tell me to pump the tyre pressure up on the track.

What is right?

It's a bit of a mixed bag as there are lots of variables, because ideally you want the most amount of rubber touching the track. I see lots of people use heat sensor guns to determine whether they lower or raise the tyre pressure.

If you are running high PSI essentially the tyres are buldging in the middle and it's a "U" shape, when you corner it's the side of the tyres which are gripping onto the tarmac.

Here is an interesting read from Yoko --> http://www.yokohama.com.au/trackdays/

Seems like they recommend a different approach depending on the type of tyres. The last few times I was on the track I ran AD07s on about 30PSI and kept dropping it through the day and RSRs which were about 30 - 32PSI, when I had high PSI I found it to be less grippy around the corners.

[stndrd]

You need to take into consideration what type of tyre you are dealing with. Sports tyres (ku31, potenza, t1 sport etc) req a higher cold pressure so that you are not rolling around on your sidewalls under hard cornering.

With R1R, RS-R, ad08, a050 etc you can run a lower cold pressure as the sidewalls are re-enforced and do not flex anything like a sports tyre.

A good point for sports tyres (whether it be street or track) would be 36psi cold and go up and down from there.

Also with the infra red thermometer, you can check inner, middle & outter sections of the contact patch to see if the tyre is getting full contact thru the corners by looking for an even temperature accross the three sections of contact patch, and if one side is hotter than the other, you can dial in more or less camber accordingly

[bos1234]

I need to change one of my tyres as it is past its tread markers. Any recommendations where I can go to replace the tyre? Im in Blacktown (sydney area)

[stndrd]

On the tyre sidewall it will have all the info you need in regards to brand, size, load rating etc

[fillit]

You need to take into consideration what type of tyre you are dealing with. Sports tyres (ku31, potenza, t1 sport etc) req a higher cold pressure so that you are not rolling around on your sidewalls under hard cornering.

With R1R, RS-R, ad08, a050 etc you can run a lower cold pressure as the sidewalls are re-enforced and do not flex anything like a sports tyre.

A good point for sports tyres (whether it be street or track) would be 36psi cold and go up and down from there.

Also with the infra red thermometer, you can check inner, middle & outter sections of the contact patch to see if the tyre is getting full contact thru the corners by looking for an even temperature accross the three sections of contact patch, and if one side is hotter than the other, you can dial in more or less camber accordingly

Great post Josh + 1


I need to change one of my tyres as well. How do I find out the dimensions and the brand etc of the tyre?

Also, where can I go to replace the tyre? Any recommendations? I'm at Blacktown

You can find the the information on the sidewall of the tyre

They all vary but this is just an example of one of them. Providing you are going stock for stock, ensure the size/profile and load rating are the same.

http://www.classictyres.com/graphics/cms/tyre-markings-lg.jpg

[T-Bone]

I need to change one of my tyres as it is past its tread markers. Any recommendations where I can go to replace the tyre? Im in Blacktown (sydney area)

Either ring up Tempe tyres for a quote and contact your local tyre shop for a price match or just get it all done through Tempe. Another pretty cheap place is st george tyres, just give them a call and tell them what brand and size tyre you are looking at to get a price. Good luck :)

[bos1234]

I need only one tyre replaced. The front right. Do most local tyre shops do that? Remove the tyre, rim, change the tyre and put back the rim. Sorry for the newb questions, just very new to cars.

[fillit]

I need only one tyre replaced. The front right. Do most local tyre shops do that? Remove the tyre, rim, change the tyre and put back the rim. Sorry for the newb questions, just very new to cars.

Yes all tyre shops do that, general pricing is $20 for strip fit and balance with maybe a $3 disposal fee of the old tyre.

If you are purchasing tires from them though, I've personally never been charged in those instances as they make a margin on it. One tyre though, I'm not too sure..

If I could make a recommendation, if you have a full sized spare and it's the same as the other 3 good tires you are running atm, run that on the car and replace the spare with an el cheapo. Tires go hard and start cracking after a few years anyway, so you might as well use it while you can, you wouldn't expect to use the spare much other than emergencies.

[connorling]

I need only one tyre replaced. The front right. Do most local tyre shops do that? Remove the tyre, rim, change the tyre and put back the rim. Sorry for the newb questions, just very new to cars.

Are u able to take the wheel off urself and take it to the shop?
Get them change the tyre on that wheel u take to the shop

[fillit]

Are u able to take the wheel off urself and take it to the shop?
Get them change the tyre on that wheel u take to the shop

Probably best to take the car to the tyre shop (if possible) so they can torque it up properly

[Setanta]

You will find that some inspection stations state that you must have the same brand/type on the driving wheels and likewise the rear.

What I've found over the years is that F/R 1x4 (same tire x4) is spot on for rego, 2x2 (2 same front, 2 same rear) is fine, 2x1 (FWD or RWD) + 1 +1 is dodgy and may fail and 1 + 1 + 1 + 1 will fail. The third option is more likely to fail on a RWD as the argument is that both rear wheels need the same tyre as they are driving wheels and both front should be the same as they are steering. on a FWD you may get away with option 3 because your drive and steering is through the same wheels. All tyres on a common axle must have the exact same rolling diameter/width/profile/tread pattern. For the purpose of a Honda this includes the two rear (which run on stubs unless you drive an AT series Civic).

Having said that, I've got away with all 4 combos on different cars at different times but now I just play safe and go 4x1 for peace of mind.

Re the deflating tyres. Check for cracking on the sidewall, de-lamination (if retreads), sharp objects embedded in the tread etc. Check the valves - the rubber should look new, if old and dry then it's possibly not sealing. Valve stems are cheap to replace. Spend a little money and get a specialist to check it out to find out why. Tyre pressure should be about 32-34 for normal driving and 34-36 for long highway driving (unless towing). The more air you cram in the more likely you will affect the wear on the tyres (38+). I run 34 in my Federal RS-Rs on my DC2R when on the road, even for interstate runs. My E30 runs 34 in its Bridgestone Potenzas and 36 for interstate runs.

HTH

[Monique]

36 on RS-R's here, and they're perfect.