Honda launching new oils

[Sambo73]

Book My CU2 Euro in for its 40K service and was told that Honda is launching new oils and the FEO Ultra 5-30 has been discontinued and the replacement is Ultra Leo 0-20 SM. I was given a leaflet was I scan for you info.

Sorry if this already been mentioned
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a6st2tlu5sv0uzb/Oil.pdf

[ChaosMaster]

0w20 is a bit too thin for my liking, even if the car's low KM.

[Sambo73]

0w20 is a bit too thin for my liking, even if the car's low KM.

My dealer said that is all about saving fuel and the US has been using the oil for a year or so now.

[dougie_504]

Too thin IMO. Supply your own oil if you don't want to use it.

[junoki]

that means honda will be discounting the old sticker/pakaging FEO Ultra tubs of oil to change over to the new.... should be able to get good prices on previous FEO Ultra

[ChaosMaster]

My dealer said that is all about saving fuel and the US has been using the oil for a year or so now.

US and Aus conditions are different though. In hotter climates, you want a thicker oil. In colder climates, you'll want a thinner oil. 0w20... I'm not even sure if it's written as being recommened in the book or not (I CBF checking), although personally, I would only use it during the US winter, where it snows. Sure, it saves fuel, being thinner means less resistance, but also means more wear.

I guess it's because Honda needs to improve the fuel econ of their cars to meet new regulations, and because they don't have money to invest in improving their engines (most of their current line up is a decade + old), they decided to cheat and use thinner oil. I can only see this hurting them in the long run.

[dougie_504]

Actually a thinner oil will reduce wear, especially at cold starts. If you're engine is new and has no oil issues I'd recommend a 0W or 5W to keep it as lubricated as possible when cold starting. For operating temperatures though I reckon 30-40 is a good weight. 20 at operating just seems so thin, especially if your engine isn't very new/healthy you'll probably burn a lot of oil.

I was running 10W-40 semi-synth on my Y1 (yes, 18 years old and original motor I know) and lost about 1.3L over 4,800KMs. Now running a 10W-50 fully synth and will be interested to see how much I get back after my next service. Synth seems to burn out faster than mineral but the synth cold-start protection is allegedly superior to that of a mineral oil with the same viscosity rating.

[stndrd]

The main thing you need to look at other than viscosity is the SAE rating. It is only rated at SM. The latest oils are now rated at SN. Would still recommend the Penrite HPR5 to all Euro owners as it is a higher rated oil and better viscosity for Australian conditions

[BigBen]

Running Amsoil 0w-20 stops my CU2 from constantly pinging compared to the factory filled oil.

BTW : the outside temperature does not make a difference to ANY oil once the oil is at operating temperature. It only matters when you are starting the engine when its dead cold.

It does not matter if your car is driven in subzero or +50DegC outside temperature. Your radiator, fans and thermostat will maintain the engine temperature at about 90Deg C no matter what the outside ambient temperature is.

The thinner oil will reduce component drag due to better oil flow and reduces heat build up compared to a thicker oil. Therefore if everything else is equal, a thinner oil reduces engine wear.

Unless your engine is kept at redline all the time and is ready for a rebuild then a thicker oil might help. A thicker oil reduces oil flow where it is needed most, which will increase component wear.

A thinner oil at cold start gives better protection than a thicker oil, as most engine wear occur within the first 30-60 seconds when the car is started. The oil is at the bottom of the oil pand and you want the oil to flow to the top of the engine, ie CAMs, bearings etc as quickly as possible to reduce engine wear. Unless your engine is running a dry sump with a separate electric oil pump and has a built-in oil heater, thin is in.

So my experiment a year ago (when I took delivery of my CU2) was proven correct, so Honda Australia must be reading this forum or the Aussie Honda mechanics is just plain lazy. HAHAHA



Here are some facts, The Toyots GT86 is factory filled with Toyota 0w-20, our Prius is filled with 0w-20. Honda is pushing for a 0w-10 for the next generation hybrid.

I use the Amsoil 0w-20 full synthetic as its easier for me to get (no shops Repco, Supercheap, Auto-one carry 0w-20 yet). Some Toyota places carry 0w-20.

[redseven]

I've been filling up my CU2 with a Honda full synth 5w-40 as recommended by the dealer. I would love to try a 0w-20 if it meant a smoother response to the redline :)

[Fredoops]

Honda/Acura been using 5w20 and 0w20 for almost 4 years now in the US

It's also Mazda's OEM fill. It's there to reduce fuel consumption, if you dont vtec all day it should be sufficient for the pumping friction reduced CU2 and earth dream engines

I read somewhere it's attributed to a 3-5% fuel consumption reduction.

[redseven]

Does the engine feel smoother on the OEM Honda 5w-20 or 0w-20 oils? Might give these a try at the next service.

Damn, maybe not:
HONDA ULTRA LEO SN 0W-20: "Warning: Use this oil only in the models where such is recommended by Honda. Do NOT use this oil in the engines where 5W-20, 5W-30, 5W-40 or 10W-30-rated motor oils are recommended."

http://jaytec-lubricants.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7_148&products_id=272

[TheSaint]

i ran my D15b7 on the original FEO 10w30 for years, when the FEO-Ultra 5w30 came out i started using that instead
the engine went all the way out to 340000 odd kms without having any oil issues at all
swapped that out for a JDM D15b with kms around the 150k mark (was an auto) - mated that to all the stuff that was bolted on to the D15b7
first run oil was castrol magnatec 10w30 - then after about 2000kms i swapped to FEO-Ultra 5w30 - and again ... no problems at all and engine runs very well
neither engines have ever been opened or had any major surgery

i just bought a 2004 euro that has been spoon fed on redline oil its whole life - i was going to use FEO-Ultra at the next service but now i dont know what to do lol
what is the HEO oil? - never heard of that one before

could it be that it actually has similar specs to the old FEO-Ultra - because it is rated on a newer grading scale than the old FEO
the old FEO is SL graded - but the new one is API SN graded

[Sambo73]

You would think that Honda would have done some testing with Ultra Leo 0W20 Sn oil with the euro to recommended it! I will be giving it a go when I get my euro serviced next week.

[Fredoops]

You would think that Honda would have done some testing with Ultra Leo 0W20 Sn oil with the euro to recommended it! I will be giving it a go when I get my euro serviced next week.

Cu2? go ahead

CL9? not so much

remember CU2 was designed with friction reduction in mind, that includes thinner oil.
CL9 wasnt

[TheSaint]

has anyone tried liqui moli as an alternative - i have been using it in all my non-honda cars recently and its not bad
i dont know if i like it enough to put it in my hondas tho lol

everyone swears by their Mos2 friction modifier but im not sure if vtec would like it too much

[Fredoops]

everyone swears by their Mos2 friction modifier but im not sure if vtec would like it too much

I used it in mine, didnt feel any difference.

[TheSaint]

notice any difference in fuel economy or long term wear on parts etc?

or just nothing at all?

[Fredoops]

nope, nada.

I noticed more difference when I swapped from 5w30 M1EP to 0w40 M1 gold.

[TheSaint]

" You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Fredoops again. "

darn it lol

[BigBen]

Running Amsoil 0w-20 feels like the engine was in neutral and free reving, and the willingness of hitting vtec rev range to redline is a real pleasure. I guest this was expected for a thinner oil.

What I did find was that in the morning (especially in winter) on start up then engine sounds quieter than the factory fill. I dump the factory fill at about 3000km as the pinging drove me nuts.

With 70% Sydney city driving and with climate control set to AUTO 22c. I get 8.7litres/100km as shown on my B mode trip computer which I don't reset until I do a service.

Also at 20k I flush the automatic trans fluid with new DW1 and this made a difference when the engine is shifting when cold. I don't get that slight hesitation that the CU was starting to develop. I suppose the oil has started to break down at this early stage.

[MR_LATE]

thats what spare parts guy said to me too.
also stndrd i just put hpr5 into my euro at 80k kms and daaaam its smoooooth
Does the engine feel smoother on the OEM Honda 5w-20 or 0w-20 oils? Might give these a try at the next service.

Damn, maybe not:
HONDA ULTRA LEO SN 0W-20: "Warning: Use this oil only in the models where such is recommended by Honda. Do NOT use this oil in the engines where 5W-20, 5W-30, 5W-40 or 10W-30-rated motor oils are recommended."

http://jaytec-lubricants.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7_148&products_id=272

[Sambo73]

thats what spare parts guy said to me too.
also stndrd i just put hpr5 into my euro at 80k kms and daaaam its smoooooth

But Honda is recommending 0W20 oil!!! If my dealer is saying that Honda is replacing 5W30 with 0W20 you would think it has been tested for the euro

[MR_LATE]

don't be their guinea pig

[BigBen]

From Honda

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAYkigNbzgs

http://www.honda.com/newsandviews/article.aspx?id=6212-en

[Sambo73]

Had My car service yesterday. I end up getting the FEO Ultra 5W30 oil has it was reduced to clear. This is the oil I had from the start so my have to get the new 0W20 next time.

[Fredoops]

But Honda is recommending 0W20 oil!!! If my dealer is saying that Honda is replacing 5W30 with 0W20 you would think it has been tested for the euro

Remember the days when honda dealer were pouring ATF-Z1 into the jazz CVT's causing them to fail?

Yeah.... Listen to your dealer.

[EKVTIR-T]

Had My car service yesterday. I end up getting the FEO Ultra 5W30 oil has it was reduced to clear. This is the oil I had from the start so my have to get the new 0W20 next time.
How much you got it for?

[Sambo73]

How much you got it for?

It was $52 for 5L. Got $25 off

[cend0l]

Running Amsoil 0w-20 feels like the engine was in neutral and free reving, and the willingness of hitting vtec rev range to redline is a real pleasure. I guest this was expected for a thinner oil.

What I did find was that in the morning (especially in winter) on start up then engine sounds quieter than the factory fill. I dump the factory fill at about 3000km as the pinging drove me nuts.

With 70% Sydney city driving and with climate control set to AUTO 22c. I get 8.7litres/100km as shown on my B mode trip computer which I don't reset until I do a service.

Also at 20k I flush the automatic trans fluid with new DW1 and this made a difference when the engine is shifting when cold. I don't get that slight hesitation that the CU was starting to develop. I suppose the oil has started to break down at this early stage.

Felt the same benefits after changing to 0w-20 (Honda premium). But I was told that the engine will burn the oil and not to track the car (i dont track).

[Fredoops]

Felt the same benefits after changing to 0w-20 (Honda premium). But I was told that the engine will burn the oil and not to track the car (i dont track).

Or any high stress operations really.

[stndrd]

Just a heads up that Penrite now offer a full synthetic 0W20

[Fredoops]

Just a heads up that Penrite now offer a full synthetic 0W20

You can really use that instead of Honda OEM.

[stndrd]

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products-categ.php?id_categ=1&id_viscosity=1