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neut
21-02-2013, 08:00 AM
Hi guys. So i just finished my swap, for the first time i drove it properly. All seems well until i started to take afew corners. I noticed the car jerky/stuttering..while in that moment when i apply throttle the engine doesnt respond until the car exits the corner and goes straight again. I thought it might be low fuel causing the walbro fuel pump unable to pick up fuel so i went to fuel up petrol. Again i drove it around and noticed stuttering again..this time it tottally shut my engine off. I tried starting it again my engine wouldnt start. I put the keys in and i dont hear the fuel pump prime.

I pushed the car home and plugged the Hondata into the ECU, loaded it up and showed no error codes... I uploaded the basemap again on Hondata and it Primed my Fuel pump..
Im lost.. maybe theres not enough grounding in the engine bay? Theres 2 atm but im planning to put more grounding although i havent had the chance to.. any help would be greatful. Cheer guys.

Benson
21-02-2013, 08:30 AM
Sounds like a fueling issue. Check fuel pressure

Snoop_gee
21-02-2013, 08:35 AM
how do you know the initial fuel pump was playing up? apply 12V direct source to test it?

check main relay. there is a DIY on here on how to re-solder dry joints in the main relay

When you apply the 12v, make sure the fuel pump is submerged in fuel. Otherwise you will run it dry and it will be F'cked. Check your fuel pressure, if you don't have fuel pressure, then look if you have power at the pump(should pick up battery voltage). If you dont have either, its definatly a wiring issue. If you dont have fuel pressure, but voltage is ok then it's most likely the pump OR it could be a faulty relay somewhere. I'm not sure how the main relays work on these things yet, only had the civic for 2 weeks so haven't torn it apart yet, maybe someone can fill me in.

the main relay contains two individual relays.

One relay is energized whenever the ignition is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECU, power to injectors, and power for the second relay.

The 2nd relay is energised for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on, and when the engine is running which supplies power to the fuel pump.

EKVTIR-T
21-02-2013, 08:43 AM
how do you know the initial fuel pump was playing up? apply 12V direct source to test it?

check main relay. there is a DIY on here on how to re-solder dry joints in the main relay

When you apply the 12v, make sure the fuel pump is submerged in fuel. Otherwise you will run it dry and it will be F'cked. Check your fuel pressure, if you don't have fuel pressure, then look if you have power at the pump(should pick up battery voltage). If you dont have either, its definatly a wiring issue. If you dont have fuel pressure, but voltage is ok then it's most likely the pump OR it could be a faulty relay somewhere. I'm not sure how the main relays work on these things yet, only had the civic for 2 weeks so haven't torn it apart yet, maybe someone can fill me in.

the main relay contains two individual relays.

One relay is energized whenever the ignition is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECU, power to injectors, and power for the second relay.

The 2nd relay is energised for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on, and when the engine is running which supplies power to the fuel pump.
should quote the people who said that ;)



how do you know the initial fuel pump was playing up? apply 12V direct source to test it?

check main relay. there is a DIY on here on how to re-solder dry joints in the main relay


When you apply the 12v, make sure the fuel pump is submerged in fuel. Otherwise you will run it dry and it will be F'cked. Check your fuel pressure, if you don't have fuel pressure, then look if you have power at the pump(should pick up battery voltage). If you dont have either, its definatly a wiring issue. If you dont have fuel pressure, but voltage is ok then it's most likely the pump OR it could be a faulty relay somewhere. I'm not sure how the main relays work on these things yet, only had the civic for 2 weeks so haven't torn it apart yet, maybe someone can fill me in.


the main relay contains two individual relays.

One relay is energized whenever the ignition is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECU, power to injectors, and power for the second relay.

The 2nd relay is energised for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on, and when the engine is running which supplies power to the fuel pump.

mocchi
21-02-2013, 09:41 AM
lololol no bbc for u snoop

mocchi
21-02-2013, 09:42 AM
specify grounding locations?

neut
21-02-2013, 10:01 AM
To be honest this is my first engine swap, im no electrician. i dont know if its the Initial fuel pump playing up, but i suspected it was a fueling problem. One, i didnt hear it prime after i tried starting it again after my car shut off. Fuel Pressure is set at 50psi and idles really smooth. Car hasnt been tuned and running a basemap. Also as for the relay.. ill buy a Fuel Pump Relay and ill check the fuse. Car can idle for ages and wont shut off.. Ill drive around again tonight around the block to see if it happens again after i put afew more grounding wires in. If anything Snoop gee u can come over and sus it out? I heard from afew friends about your car :) might as well bring it over too lol. i live near you. Cheers for the help so far guys.

dougie_504
21-02-2013, 10:11 AM
Doesn't sound like main relay to me. My experience with a stuffed MR wasn't effected by cornering.

neut
21-02-2013, 10:13 AM
So far my grounding..Valve cover(near spark plugs) to chassis, INjectors to valve Cover, Near alternator to chassis, Harness to chassis and Negative terminal from battery to chassis. My next grounding location i plan on placing are.. gearbox to chassis and afew more from the engine to chassis.

mocchi
21-02-2013, 10:18 AM
So far my grounding..Valve cover(near spark plugs) to chassis, INjectors to valve Cover, Near alternator to chassis, Harness to chassis and Negative terminal from battery to chassis. My next grounding location i plan on placing are.. gearbox to chassis and afew more from the engine to chassis.


You need exactly the same grounds as the RSX. These grounds are not optional; they are all mandatory.

There should be a large ground strap between the transmission and the car body. The purpose of this ground is to take care of the large current drawn by the starter motor. Keep the ground fairly short and go to the chassis. The stock transmission has a bracket which has an attachment point, otherwise you can use one of the 8mm case bolts. Do not use the bolt that holds in the reverse idler shaft (as I have seen people do). It should be a fairly short cable. Don't go to the battery with this cable.

The next ground is on the right hand engine mount. Without stock RSX mounts, you can go from the chassis to a bolt on the timing cover. On an EG, DC or EK I prefer to go straight to the battery negative strap attachment point (see below). This does not need to be a very thick wire.

The last ground is from the wiring harness to the engine. Normally it bolts to the manifold - but almost everyone is aware that it needs to be moved. The valve cover stud works. I prefer using an unused 6mm bolt on the end of the cylinder head (doesn't work on the K20Z3 and K24 heads). If you want you can make a wire which runs from the battery to the timing cover and then to this ground point - it doesn't need to be very thick. This is as many grounds as you need - any more is a waste of time and money.

With all grounds you need to remove the paint from under the wire - grounds will not work if the current has to flow through a bolt.

you checked all bolts/wiring tight?
maybe loose wiring when cornering

neut
21-02-2013, 10:28 AM
All my grounds i have sanded down the paint area to have good contact and bolts are tight, I shall rip off the rear seat tonight and shall check fuel pump again anyways to see if anything looks wong.. shall update this tonight asap. Anymore help would be great! Thanks guys!!

neut
22-02-2013, 10:53 PM
Fixed! Took out the fuel pump to check if anythings wrong
Everything seemed to be in order, i then soldered the conversion harness instead of using the clips
Provided. I then put a 4 gauge size ground wire from chassis to engine. Took it for a 20 min drive taking corners hard and all
and bam all sorted!! Thanks for the input guys :) much appreciated!

lil_foy
23-02-2013, 06:24 AM
should quote the people who said that ;)


LOL hahahahahhahaha