PDA

View Full Version : B18C7 conversion little help



EM1187
26-03-2013, 09:36 PM
Hey guys just need a little bit of help.

Recently done a conversion. Got a few lil bumps I've come into.
Just needed more input from the more experienced guys out there.

So just received the car earlier today. SAS from silverwater done the conversion. Idle issues appearing now but not when I checked it out at the shop. Cold start idles about 600rpm feels like its about to die. This also happens when warm. (Sometimes died)

Keep in mind car was sitting for about a week after conversion was done at the shop I'm guessing they only started it when moving in and out of the workshop.

When I had the car I let it sit for about 40 mins just to burn old fuel off (the mechanics also threw in 20l of 98 BP). Idle issue appears to have improved now but still a bit fluctuating sits at 800rpm or so on warm. I'm hearing little popping sounds and see a little bit of watery oil or carbon mixed with water stuff when I rev it from the exhaust, now its got toda headers on it mated to a dc2r oem exhaust I had this put on and removed the old exhaust while it was at the shop. Can only hear the popping sound from the exhaust when im crouching at the back.

Other information to consider is the motor came from a dc2r that hadn't been driven around for about 2.5 years.

I can also smell a weird gas/fuel smell if I stand at the drivers door.
When the conversion was performed it had gone through a major service, timing belt, oil change, fuel pump upgraded to walbro, spark plugs etc.

I haven't taken the car out for a spin since it has no rego was thinking this may clear out the issues.
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks guys and sorry for the wall of text that hit you for 9999 dmg.

Baby Face
26-03-2013, 09:48 PM
maybe the cat has gone bad?
but best thing to do might be to take it for a spin. in a legal way. with a permit or something to take it down to the local "CB auto"

drive it easy, then when the gearbox and that has warmed up then drive it more spiritedly maybe hit the higher revs?

then we can determine other odd behaviours the engine might be having.

dougie_504
26-03-2013, 10:31 PM
Check in your spark plug housing for water/oil. Check the plugs themselves just in case. Otherwise give it a good drive, some hard throttle/reving out, run the tank empty and make sure you put good petrol in in case the mech didn't use BP98.

Idle, you can always try loosening the idle screw on top of the TB but it should probably be 700-800 anyway.

JDM DC2R
26-03-2013, 10:49 PM
Check in your spark plug housing for water/oil. Check the plugs themselves just in case. Otherwise give it a good drive, some hard throttle/reving out, run the tank empty and make sure you put good petrol in in case the mech didn't use BP98.

Idle, you can always try loosening the idle screw on top of the TB but it should probably be 700-800 anyway.

fluctuating idle, can be due to air in the coolent.

As for adjusting the idle, Your meant to follow the procedure not just loosen the idle screw

Jasemas
26-03-2013, 11:07 PM
Shouldn't cold start idle be at 15000rpm?
*Edit 1500rpm LOL

EM1187
26-03-2013, 11:15 PM
I'm going to bleed the coolant tomorrow after work just incase the mechanic didnt bother.
I did forget to add that it did get a mishimoto replacment since the oem radiator was leaking.
I'll move over to vacuum leaks and see if I can take it for a test drive inbetween.
Ill check the sparkies too.

Will update you guys tomorrow.
Thanks guys.

EM1187
26-03-2013, 11:17 PM
Shouldn't cold start idle be at 15000rpm?
*Edit 1500rpm LOL

Yeah it should be close to that but no where near it unfortunately.

Saint Luke
26-03-2013, 11:43 PM
Typically the popping is associated with an ignition misfire. This is pretty common if the engine sat around for a bit, as starting it and getting a bit of heat into it can loosen some deposits or carbon which have built up and foul the plugs. Double check all your fluids, make sure you have clean oil and a new filter, replace your plugs as you should anyway, check your base timing, then take it for a decent drive on the highway - so long as its relatively reliable. Try open it up a few times and see how you go, i'd also be keeping an ear out for any signs of excessive pinging just in case you have some sort of fuel starvation issue.

If its still a problem i'd start with the basic stuff - plug leads. If not, work back from there and try to isolate the problem.

Daveho1
27-03-2013, 04:30 AM
try cleaning out the iacv

dougie_504
27-03-2013, 05:22 AM
And check for vacuum leaks too. Basically any hose attached to your intake manifold. But the misfiring should be ignition like mentioned earlier.

EM1187
27-03-2013, 06:17 PM
Okay so decided to take it for a test drive up and down my street vtec is working at least. Notice abit of white smoke 1st and 2nd gear. When I gave it on the way back, no smoke at all. Changing my spark plugs now and will bleed coolent when It's cooled down. Tried spraying some throttle body cleaner while car was idleing cold no difference.

EM1187
27-03-2013, 06:20 PM
Theres no mis firing when engine braking from high rpm down too low as well.

Baby Face
27-03-2013, 07:28 PM
how were the piston rings? was this checked before installing? i reckon its just got dirt somewhere like the aforementioned IACV.
or deposits through the exhaust. the just needed blowing out or need to be cleaned.

dougie_504
27-03-2013, 09:33 PM
Where did you spray the carby cleaner?

Rage King
02-04-2013, 08:44 PM
try like what everyone has stated - spark plugs, IACV, TB idle adjuster, carby cleaners etc.

Are you getting any CEL codes?

Also ..the fuel smell your getting could be that the fuel EVAP canister is not connected properly or not even connected at all. This may cause erratic idles if this is not connected and youll get that fuel smell incabin. If its disconnected. be sure to block off any open valves or cracked/open vacuum hoses etc.

Saint Luke
04-04-2013, 01:53 PM
How did you get on with this, did you get it sorted?

connorling
04-04-2013, 04:08 PM
restart the ECU.

might be the ECU is learning.

Rage King
05-04-2013, 11:11 AM
^^my ODC did this after being offline for 3+ months. when i first turned it on - the rev was hunting and ran like crap. then after a few cold and warm starts and drove for 1hr the ECU eventually self learned.

patience is a virtue!

babybashjnr
05-04-2013, 12:13 PM
try cleaning out the iacv

This fixed my problem, there's a video of how to do it youtube

EM1187
06-04-2013, 09:09 AM
Fixed guys, I decided to replace my Leads, Dizzy Cap + Rotor as well as spark plugs, cleaned the IACV now she runs so beautiful. As for the idle issue it's gone, but it's still running rich though would I need a FPR?

bennjamin
06-04-2013, 01:58 PM
Fixed guys, I decided to replace my Leads, Dizzy Cap + Rotor as well as spark plugs, cleaned the IACV now she runs so beautiful. As for the idle issue it's gone, but it's still running rich though would I need a FPR?

you have a FPR on the fuel rail.

Do you mean an aftermarket or adjustable FPR ?

How do you know its running rich ?