brake recomendations

[Daveho1]

hey guys,
basicly i have fount that the combination of my poor tyres as well as the stock 4 wheel disc brakes on my b18 EG isnt enough to withstand harder mountain driving. so im getting the 262 brakes from a vtir (master, booster prop valve as well) but i think i may be over thinking my brake setup long story short have you guys used;
rda rotors
ebc greenstuff pads
goodridge lines.
i know its basicly the most standard setup there is but i would like your opinion on this set up or something elce if you know whats the goods.

also the tyre issue will be resolved soon aswell.
edit: after more reading i think ill try the ebc yellowstuff over the greenstuff

[babybashjnr]

In my track eg in nz I ran DBA 282mm rotors, hawk hp plus (best pads I've used by a long shot), prelude calipers and the booster and prop valve from a 96spec ITR
Brakes and tyres are very important

What size tyres are u running?

[JDM DC2R]

RDA arnt good, DBA all the way
For brake pads id run ferodo DS2500
Brake fluid MOTUL RBF 600
And lines im using goodridge

[Daveho1]

RDA arnt good, DBA all the way
For brake pads id run ferodo DS2500
Brake fluid MOTUL RBF 600
And lines im using goodridge

jdmyard run rda rotors on there track k powered civics and dba are double the price i doubt they would last twice as long as long as you have a cool lap if tracking rdas are fine.
yer the ferodos are good but price em up...
fluid year fine, ill stick with castrol though.
and yep goodridge lines are my prefrence too but hel lines are good too.
im not looking for a list of popular products

im really looking for info on the products i have listed. if you have experiance with them please chime in

[Daveho1]

In my track eg in nz I ran DBA 282mm rotors, hawk hp plus (best pads I've used by a long shot), prelude calipers and the booster and prop valve from a 96spec ITR
Brakes and tyres are very important

What size tyres are u running?
my tyres will be 205/50r15 on a set of 15x7 . those brakes sound like they would pull up well. i just wanna remind yall that this isnt a track car it gets run on roughish mountain roads.

[Super-DA9]

I recommend the disc brakes from your bicycle. ;)

[Daveho1]

i only have horse shoe brakes on bmx. oh do you have DIY for conversion?

[Super-DA9]

i only have horse shoe brakes on bmx. oh do you have DIY for conversion?

Even better! Less weight!

You can use the Spoogen Power conversion adaptor plate which you can buy from TypeNone racing in japan for $7,800 + postage. Direct bolt on for DC/EG with BMX brakes.

[Daveho1]

id be a fool not to become the australian distributer.

[DreadAngel]

262mm VTi-R setup meaning Calipers + Rotors yeah?

EBC Greenstuff 2000 is rated at:
Temp - 600°C [Doesn't say if it works from 0°C]
Nominal Friction Coefficient - 0.55μ

I'd be fairly careful cause that Coefficient means its VERY aggressive... Its more aggressive than my MX72s which I needed to get Dixcel HS/FS [Heat-Treated + Slotted [HS], Sper Taikyu spec material, Heat-Treated + Slotted] rotors to withstand the MX72s.

I had custom Goodridge lines made up at Race Brakes Sydney (http://www.racebrakessydney.com.au/), I can attest to the quality of Goodridge, pushed them hard in my 111, good constant feel.

Personally with your setup, I'd go something similar to babybashjnr's setup, ITR 98' Calipers and Rotor size if possible as it will allow for your setup to be more durable/withstand more heat =)

EDIT: Just read your edit, I can't find specs for the Yellowstuff so can't comment man :(

[connorling]

I used Dba 262 slotted rotor, ebc green n later on red, good ridge lines.

It was good for what u intended to do, street/mountain.

Stay away from RDA, it cracks and need machining after few months use.

[Jasemas]

Msg Baby Face
He has a b16 in an eg5 and has recently done a full brake swap and booster and prop lines from an ITR
I know i helped him :P
There's a few mods you'll need to do

[connorling]

Msg Baby Face
He has a b16 in an eg5 and has recently done a full brake swap and booster and prop lines from an ITR
I know i helped him :P
There's a few mods you'll need to do


Adam, it wasnt a full ITR upgrade.
his was a vtir which is 262mm, itr is 282mm.

[DC2-PWR]

RDA arnt good, DBA all the way
For brake pads id run ferodo DS2500
Brake fluid MOTUL RBF 600
And lines im using goodridge

Nothing wrong with RDA. The importance is the pad. I found my DS2500 having a "spongy" feel after 3 laps on a 2km race circuit..

I am using Hawk dtc 60. Not cheap, but I am so satisfied with it. The DS2500 I'd leave for a street car and maybe a beginner track car. (to get the feel on where to brake). Then when you move on in experience and find the limits of the pads, you can think about upgrading.


jdmyard run rda rotors on there track k powered civics and dba are double the price i doubt they would last twice as long as long as you have a cool lap if tracking rdas are fine.
yer the ferodos are good but price em up...
fluid year fine, ill stick with castrol though.
and yep goodridge lines are my prefrence too but hel lines are good too.
im not looking for a list of popular products

im really looking for info on the products i have listed. if you have experiance with them please chime in

Yup Yonas ran his RDA on the EG civic last year. I bought the rotors off him 2nd hand, and I still have it, and I still have enough meat on it for more track days. He keeps telling me "still have the RDAs?" and has a big "LOL" when I say yes. Really impressive for something cheap. Been nearly through 6 track days near 200+ laps + whatever Yonas did.

Nice healthy fluid, caliper and good compound pads is a good start. I'd swear that the braided lines did good, it definitely made the feel better. Worth the dollar :thumbsup:


262mm VTi-R setup meaning Calipers + Rotors yeah?

EBC Greenstuff 2000 is rated at:
Temp - 600°C [Doesn't say if it works from 0°C]
Nominal Friction Coefficient - 0.55μ

I'd be fairly careful cause that Coefficient means its VERY aggressive... Its more aggressive than my MX72s which I needed to get Dixcel HS/FS [Heat-Treated + Slotted [HS], Sper Taikyu spec material, Heat-Treated + Slotted] rotors to withstand the MX72s.

I had custom Goodridge lines made up at Race Brakes Sydney (http://www.racebrakessydney.com.au/), I can attest to the quality of Goodridge, pushed them hard in my 111, good constant feel.

Personally with your setup, I'd go something similar to babybashjnr's setup, ITR 98' Calipers and Rotor size if possible as it will allow for your setup to be more durable/withstand more heat =)

EDIT: Just read your edit, I can't find specs for the Yellowstuff so can't comment man :(

+1

Dave I'd suggest talking to the guys who sell the products. I bought my brake parts from BYP and JDMyard. They can squeeze in the time helping to find out what you need best. BYP have real good pad options that I couldnt find anywhere in QLD and JDMyard can get me rotors to suit my custom setup.

Good luck

[Daveho1]

thanks dc2-pwr, ill never use byp for anything though ive had a bad experiance with them that resulted in me having to pay alot of money for something they should have fixed but im not really one for the name n shame on a public forum if u wanna know about that pm me.
im pritty set on the following;
262mm swap with vtir master, booster and 4040 prop.
rda sloted and dimpled rotor (i can get a full set for 320 shipped, cmon worth a shot)
goodridge lines.
but as when i started im still at a loss for the pads. i may just have a chat to the brake shop that dose my macheining and see what they recomend hmmm or i may just give the greenstuf a go as ive heard they are dusty but other then that awsome and given the state of my current brakes im sure it wil be sufficiant

[Daveho1]

basicly what im really asking is in your guys experiance what pads pair well with the rda rotors for spirited driving? honestly the only track work im even looking ad doing in the future may be the canberra hill climb which runs about 1 min so the hardest work the set up will get is the mountan passes

Edit: if you havent used rda rotors then i dont need your input atm, im looking for experiance with the products listed, not random unfounded opinions.
Edit: the acre superfighters look pritty good by the stats., anyone use em?

[Jasemas]

Adam, it wasnt a full ITR upgrade.
his was a vtir which is 262mm, itr is 282mm.

Yes, yes thanks man :P
You know what i mean haha

[DreadAngel]

Nothing wrong with RDA. The importance is the pad. I found my DS2500 having a "spongy" feel after 3 laps on a 2km race circuit..

I am using Hawk dtc 60. Not cheap, but I am so satisfied with it. The DS2500 I'd leave for a street car and maybe a beginner track car. (to get the feel on where to brake). Then when you move on in experience and find the limits of the pads, you can think about upgrading.

The DS2500 off my head only has a temperature rating of ~550°C but has quite a high Coefficent [~0.55μ] which means that while it will generate great braking power, it won't last long and starts fading as it goes past its heat range. For the average track car, try to get at least pads that will last up to ~650°C and 0.45μ+ [@ maximum] [Heavier cars need higher temps and co-efficient], ensure your brake fluid can also handle higher temps, braided lines to eliminate the rubber hose expansion issue and you'll find that you can get more laps out there ;)

[.Dave]

i had rda slotted and greenstuff with standard 242mm brakes on my eg and have done 3 trackdays with them and they are still fine, pads are getting low, but they worked pretty well, after a lot of hard braking it started to sponge up and fade, but i guess it depends what you want the car for...

ive got a 262mm vtir caliper and hub/rotor etc set up again with braided lines to go in too so im in the same boat.. using rda slotteds again (never had a problem so i think youll be fine) and greenstuff again, it works fine from cold and they hold up fairly well

the guy at the brake shop said qfm a1rm are good, similar to redstuff, so need a heat up, but very cheap
a few other guys i know with mirages have used them and said they were shit
and a couple with silvias think they work great...

so very mixed opinions, but the greenstuff is good, and not really harsh for daily driving

[DC2-PWR]

262mm swap with vtir master, booster and 4040 prop.
rda sloted and dimpled rotor (i can get a full set for 320 shipped, cmon worth a shot)
goodridge lines.
but as when i started im still at a loss for the pads. i may just have a chat to the brake shop that dose my macheining and see what they recomend hmmm or i may just give the greenstuf a go as ive heard they are dusty but other then that awsome and given the state of my current brakes im sure it wil be sufficiant


basicly what im really asking is in your guys experiance what pads pair well with the rda rotors for spirited driving? honestly the only track work im even looking ad doing in the future may be the canberra hill climb which runs about 1 min so the hardest work the set up will get is the mountan passes

Edit: if you havent used rda rotors then i dont need your input atm, im looking for experiance with the products listed, not random unfounded opinions.
Edit: the acre superfighters look pritty good by the stats., anyone use em?

Great that you have figured what you want. :thumbsup: I have no problems helping/sharing when I did my search and experience on this same matter.

I wouldn't sink in asking for advice because there is already so much information out there already. If you believe in a certain pad then go for it, experience it first go and address how you want to go from there. That's my opinion so you can disregard it /not relevant.


The DS2500 off my head only has a temperature rating of ~550°C but has quite a high Coefficent [~0.55μ] which means that while it will generate great braking power, it won't last long and starts fading as it goes past its heat range. For the average track car, try to get at least pads that will last up to ~650°C and 0.45μ+ [@ maximum] [Heavier cars need higher temps and co-efficient], ensure your brake fluid can also handle higher temps, braided lines to eliminate the rubber hose expansion issue and you'll find that you can get more laps out there ;)

Thanks for the further info. I should've stated the car already had braided lines, 310degree fluid, brake duct, and other reinforcement. But when you start 'racing' the parts will effectively tell you a different story than it's facts/figures. Thus feeling and telling the difference by comparing with other brake pads with realistic comments/evidence. It's a completely different story when you're comparing with online notes and doing real circuit racing (been there done that). ***different cars, different parts, different way of testing and comparing facts/figures vs realistic results***

I'd suggest the DS2500 as a street and beginner level track pad (great to get the feel of braking when first time circuit racing). When you gather experience you will then find the limits of the certain pad and would want to upgrade (which I did).



i had rda slotted and greenstuff with standard 242mm brakes on my eg and have done 3 trackdays with them and they are still fine, pads are getting low, but they worked pretty well, after a lot of hard braking it started to sponge up and fade, but i guess it depends what you want the car for...

ive got a 262mm vtir caliper and hub/rotor etc set up again with braided lines to go in too so im in the same boat.. using rda slotteds again (never had a problem so i think youll be fine) and greenstuff again, it works fine from cold and they hold up fairly well

the guy at the brake shop said qfm a1rm are good, similar to redstuff, so need a heat up, but very cheap
a few other guys i know with mirages have used them and said they were shit
and a couple with silvias think they work great...

so very mixed opinions, but the greenstuff is good, and not really harsh for daily driving

+1

Like mentioned, rotor + good pad + braided lines + fresh high temp brake oil is a great start for beginners to get the feel.

[DreadAngel]

Thanks for the further info. I should've stated the car already had braided lines, 310degree fluid, brake duct, and other reinforcement. But when you start 'racing' the parts will effectively tell you a different story than it's facts/figures. Thus feeling and telling the difference by comparing with other brake pads with realistic comments/evidence. It's a completely different story when you're comparing with online notes and doing real circuit racing (been there done that). ***different cars, different parts, different way of testing and comparing facts/figures vs realistic results***

Yup, this is from me comparing my experience with the DS2500 against the Endless MX72s =) So I can use both experience and spec to compare the two hehe =)

All good man :)

[Daveho1]

thanks for all your input guys, i have a pritty clear idea of what im lookign for now, i loke most i suspect had gone lookingto deep into fiction coefficiancy or effective heat ranges so massive thanks.

[Daveho1]

ill let you know what i end up with and let you know how it all goes

[DC2-PWR]

Yup, this is from me comparing my experience with the DS2500 against the Endless MX72s =) So I can use both experience and spec to compare the two hehe =)

All good man :)

Great stuff I've only heard the best results from endless parts. :thumbsup:


thanks for all your input guys, i have a pritty clear idea of what im lookign for now, i loke most i suspect had gone lookingto deep into fiction coefficiancy or effective heat ranges so massive thanks.


ill let you know what i end up with and let you know how it all goes

No worries Dave I'm really keen to see how you go, we all have to start somewhere hey!

Good luck :thumbsup:

[Daveho1]

yeah i cant wait to have this all done and just enjoy the civic for a while. i have had it up on stands almost every weekend for the past 8 months so it will be good to just drive for a while.

[MassiEk4]

hopefully I am not repeating what another member has mentioned.

Why not do a ITR caliper with 282 mini rotor swap?
All you need is 262 knuckles, ITR (crv, 5-stud prelude, accord etc) calipers and 2007 mini cooper base rotors (4x100 282mm). I have done this before with great results, I am doing it on my current build and on every future build.

I am also working on a bigger brake upgrade for the rears to match the 282mm fronts using oem honda parts, it is bigger than the dc2 VTIR rear setup and cheaper than and ITR 5-stud conversion. Will make a How-to in the DIY section, soon.

[Daveho1]

Because i dont want to, honestly im gonna be using a 1" master anyway, so i have left that option open for later on down the track but in my situation i doubt the extra 20mm will be needed and it would just be added rotational mass that dosnt need to be there. I understand where ur coming from though.

[MassiEk4]

Because i dont want to, honestly im gonna be using a 1" master anyway, so i have left that option open for later on down the track but in my situation i doubt the extra 20mm will be needed and it would just be added rotational mass that dosnt need to be there. I understand where ur coming from though.

From my understanding, 1inch master cylinder requires less effort/force by your foot and produces the same amount of clamping force onto the rotor as a smaller master cylinder (which requires greater peddle force).
Actually that extra 20mm x the circumference of the rotor has more surface area to help with brake-fade as well as bigger calipers and rotational of mass further away from the center also aids in stopping power. Sure you there is a little more rotational mass but it is offset 20mm and almost negligible/you will not notice it.

Please don't take what I have said the wrong way; all I am do is express my opinion and understanding to help you. At the end of the day it is your choice.

[VTURBO]

^^ easy diy and cheap .. been there done that and works great currently looking for nsx or legend 2pot

[Daveho1]

Dont get me wrong i uderstand how breaks but for my build its not needed. I find it frustrating when i say " guys i need your experiance with te following parts" and most just say "just get type r". If i was going for ultimate stopping force i would but the set up i have listed is set in stone what i dont have is experiance with various pads and rotors. Im still keen to hear your experiances so keep em coming.

[DC2-PWR]

Nothing wrong with 262 setup boys. I know a fair few people that use the 262 setup and get great results with good rotor and pad combo. I use the the ITR setup also, so definitely I'm not being biased.

[Daveho1]

^^^^ my point exactly, anyway have any of you guys used any QFM pads? I can get a set locally so i may give em a go based on what i have heard about em

[MassiEk4]

Dont get me wrong i uderstand how breaks but for my build its not needed. I find it frustrating when i say " guys i need your experiance with te following parts" and most just say "just get type r". If i was going for ultimate stopping force i would but the set up i have listed is set in stone what i dont have is experiance with various pads and rotors. Im still keen to hear your experiances so keep em coming.

Fair enough, just helping you get the best performance for the least amount of money.

Here are my experiences with the parts you mentioned:

-I used EBC yellows. They are nice, for a race pad they have virtually no noise; but the dust really got on my nerves (no need for' em on a street car).
-I used EBC reds. They surprisingly had good bite cold-hot, no noise and very low dust, and it holds up occasional track days. (I am using these on my current build)
-Brake lines, Goodridge, HEL they are all good. I personally prefer the cheapest well known brand that I can find.
-As for rotors, I just run plain OE replacement (282mm) and they worked great with the both kinds of EBC pads. Not sure how the 262mm plain rotors compare in terms of brake-fade, might have to invest in the more expensive 262mm rotors (that is why I was saying to go 282mm, good performance for low cost/oe rotors).

Hope that helps :D

[Daveho1]

See its not the least amount of money cause i have 262 rotors calipers etc i dont have 282.
Buying more stuff dosnt save me money.
Im know the type r are bigger and beter and blah blah but im taking good deals where i can get them,
If it turns out this setup isnt suitable well ill sell off what i can and try somethong elce but untill then lets keep on topic. I know where your coming from though if i used the itr setup i would also have a better choice of pads and there would be abit more margin for error as far as pad selection goes as a larger rotor is just a bigger heat sink but im trying to go as light as possable so adding aditional rotating mass regardless if its only abit is something id rather avoid if i can make my smaller set up work. Know what i mean?