hardrace camber kit

[baethos]

Hi All,

I'm planning on getting the hardrace camber kit front and rear for my EK civic. I currently have Buddy Club N+ coilovers installed. Anyone know if I'll have any issues? Read a post where the hardrace front camber kit looks quite long and might reduce the clearance near my coils. Will I have issues? Anyone run this set up?

Thanks!

[mugen_ctr]

No issues man, heaps ppl use em, even me, only down side like all camber kits is how low u plan on going... With hard race u cant go too low, or else u cant access the top bolts for the camber plate in which than u either go higher ride height or take em off to adjust it

but worse....

The problem is if ur part of the stance wank crew...due to excessive and stupid amounts of low, the upper front camber kit will be hitting the shock tower which can cause denting or worse cracking of the shock tower, in which case calls for higher ride height OR modding / re welding the cracks

But all this can be avoided if u run sensible ride height

Hardrace bushes are top, ran em for 1.5 yrs no problems so far, top product!

[baethos]

Thanks for the response. How low is too low? I'm max low on the buddy clubs. But it's not that low. Fender sits on top of the tyre, not tucking tyre. Is that ok? How low is yours? Thanks.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7403/8840289486_d8d6ea25a5_c.jpg

[mugen_ctr]

Thanks for the response. How low is too low? I'm max low on the buddy clubs. But it's not that low. Fender sits on top of the tyre, not tucking tyre. Is that ok? How low is yours? Thanks.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7403/8840289486_d8d6ea25a5_c.jpg

hey dude im running same height as u, no defect notice for me lol...

should be fine, but again jus depends how much droop ur suspension will allow for them to access the top camber bolts to move it in place for correct camber settings, last time i done mine, they struggled hard getting to the camber and than needing loosen the bolts for an align properly, but bit of muscle u can still access the bolts ontop.

From what i heard, hardrace is the only proper camber kit, all other are either knocks or too weak, aka Buddy club

[Killa From Manila]

hardrace have a new design which instead of bolts on the top, there are 6 allen key bolts on the bottom. similar to skunk2 design

[EG5]

hardrace have a new design which instead of bolts on the top, there are 6 allen key bolts on the bottom. similar to skunk2 design

That design is for S2000

[Killa From Manila]

Ah damn. They should do it for all models!

[Type FN]

my arms hit the top when going down a bump or something and my car is not even that low (dc2r), only thing i could think of was grid down the sides so it doesnt hit or have to raise the car. With the car lowered its hard to get to the adjusment bolts and can be done with a flex head 17mm spanner. Atm tyre is 1/2 finger gap from guard, looks good but i will raise it to avoid until i grind down the arms a bit or get js racing or nagisa auto arms instead.

[mugen_ctr]

i believe skunk2 have the adjustment bolts facing downwards making adjustments easier

http://www.boombopracing.com/ebay/pictures/skunk2/SKN2-516-05-5685.jpg

The only problem i have with any camber kit using hex bolts is how strong are they? comparing the hardrace to skunk2 is like comparing a muscular guy to a skinny dude, not much bulk in the skunk2.

If hardrace come up with a new front camber design that allows for adjustments on the front from the bottom that would be a winner in my book using the same bolts and design.

[baethos]

my arms hit the top when going down a bump or something and my car is not even that low (dc2r), only thing i could think of was grid down the sides so it doesnt hit or have to raise the car. With the car lowered its hard to get to the adjusment bolts and can be done with a flex head 17mm spanner. Atm tyre is 1/2 finger gap from guard, looks good but i will raise it to avoid until i grind down the arms a bit or get js racing or nagisa auto arms instead.

Yeah I heard that when installing some camber kits, you need to bang the inside fender bit to make space for the camber kit. Do people usually do this? I will if it means the camber arms won't hit anything.

[baethos]

So...I received my front and rear camber kits this week, going to install it this weekend. Can anyone link to a guide on how to set/adjust camber? Are there any markings on the hardrace camber kit that roughly marks about -1, -2 and -3 degrees? Just so that I have a gauge of how much camber I'm dialing in. Thanks!

[stndrd]

There are no markings on the camber arms to say you are @ -1.5degree or -2 etc as camber is affected by your ride height (the lower you go, the more natural negative camber you get) and your wheel specs/guard work may affect as well (again depending on how low you are).

I would leave them as they are out of the box, fit them up and send it straight for a wheel alignment

[mugen_ctr]

Yeah I heard that when installing some camber kits, you need to bang the inside fender bit to make space for the camber kit. Do people usually do this? I will if it means the camber arms won't hit anything.

u need to cut shut and weld the new shock tower in order to clear the camber arms as they extend more than the oem, hence why alot of USA guys do it, not sure on the cost but id say not worth the money

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/triumph_013/l_1abddda341d852a07beacf049aeb84ea.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/thedb63/2012-03-27162200.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k289/siblues/car%20pics/3978790585_ae8c3d0dc6_b.jpg

[baethos]

ok, so tried installing the camber kit this weekend. rears went in - done. then went to do the fronts. undid all 3 bolts, 1 on the camber arm and 2 on the shock tower...i could not get the ball joint of the camber kit (oem) off the camber arm! GRRRRRR! I bashed away at it, in an upward direction with a dead blow hammer. damn thing wouldn't budge. even sprayed wd40 on it. still no good. anyone had this problem before? i can't get the camber kit off the camber arm.

[Chr1s]

It's common, tapered fits baby.

Please tell me you didn't bash the bottom of the stud with no nut on it, if so, the balljoint is bonkers for good, it's flared the base so you won't fit a nut on it again. There is a dodgy fix to this, but don't mess around with suspension please...

My trick to "pop" the UCA from the knuckle is get two hammers and hit either side of the knuckle at the same time right near the balljoint, it will release itself, don't be shy with the hit and it might need a couple. Just don't go spastic and end up damaging something, if you have poor aim, get someone else to do it.

[baethos]

I was banging the bottom bolt like instructions say (to pop the ball joint off the camber arm). Anyway, I didn't damage anything...in the end I put back all 2 bolts and nut and it's fine. But I need to get it off so I can replace it with the hardrace one.

[baethos]

Gah! I cannot get the ball joint off the camber arm. Anyone used a ball joint splitter before? Do they work?

Saw this vid. wow the guy makes it look so easy haha! so should i give the camber arm a good few whacks with a hammer? I don't wanna break it...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDsci-izhhc

[Daveho1]

they work but its not needed. try hitting where the ball joint passes through the knuckle as previously stated, or thread a nut onto the ball joint then hit it, this prevents mushrooming.

[Chr1s]

Must be school holidays I think.

[Daveho1]

seems that way lol. I know it sounds what ever but atm im considering a front camber kit for my eg...why? because good quality replacement upper ball joints don't seem to be available at a price that's competitive. so I can buy hard race for 200 for the set or 245 per arm at Honda... hmmm

[baethos]

Anyway, school or not I managed to get the ball joint off the knuckle. Several good whacks with a hammer and it popped right off. So the camber is dialed in, and the fronts no longer rub. One thing I immediately noticed though. That while the car does turn in easier/faster as expected, the steering wheel does not return to center as easily/fast as before. Is that expected? The car feels very different (in a bad way). I was actually testing and I can turn the wheel at full lock, take my hands off the steering wheel and the car will keep doing circles. lol the steering wheel doesn't return to center. WTF???

[Daveho1]

So you obviously took the car for a wheel alighnment, cause you would have to be dumb as fark not to...right?

[baethos]

^ well, not yet. I was gonna get my camber sorted out first, then get an alignment to correct the toe. I've been reading that the castor may have an affect on whether the steering wheel returns to center. Anyone confirm this? Would I have affected my caster by changing the camber plates? I only ask cos when camber plates were installed on my other car, it did not have this effect. So wondering what's up?

[Type FN]

^ well, not yet. I was gonna get my camber sorted out first, then get an alignment to correct the toe. I've been reading that the castor may have an affect on whether the steering wheel returns to center. Anyone confirm this? Would I have affected my caster by changing the camber plates? I only ask cos when camber plates were installed on my other car, it did not have this effect. So wondering what's up?

i would suggest getting an alignment where they can dial your camber correctly as well as fixng your toe in/out, you cant dial in camber yourself and expect it to be exact without a proper camber gauge/alignment machine so i wouldnt recommend diy, i do my own wheel alignments with a camber gauge and a toe measurement tool and even this wont be as exact as a laser machine but its how all the race teams do alignments (string never lie). As for castor both my previous civic R and my dc2r have castor maxed out for best performance and have never noticed what you said above. Hope it helps.

[baethos]

Just thought I'd follow this up. I got an alignment done and it's all good now. The toe in at the front was so bad, the guy said my car would have been undriveable lol! I did the camber myself and they were fine (equal both sides). I didn't want them to touch it anyway as I got it good enough so I wasn't rubbing. Caster was left the same as I believe it's non adjustable anyway?