Genuine Honda Parts, Necessary?

[Tonkatsu]

Hi all

Just picked up a 09 GE GLI, I have started collecting some genuine items for my upcoming 40k service. So far I've got genuine oil, oil filter and ATF-DW1 and a air filter.

Question that I want to know is, is it really necessary to use genuine? The only things honda warns against is the ATF and brake fluids. They seem to recommend that over anything else.

Thoughts?

[bennjamin]

Please use genuine fluids and filters.

But
You can differ in engine oil - there are a few options out there such as castrol edge 5-30

[Tonkatsu]

Yeah I was thinking the same.

In my case genuine works out slightly cheaper than aftermarket as well so thats a bonus.

Any idea where to source genuine honda brake fluid (dot4)? I can't find this anywhere readily available in Aus.

[Tonkatsu]

Besides dealers ( which I'm not fond of)

[fundies]

No. Genuine stuff is a rip off. I use Ryco oil filters, and Wesfil air filters ( identical ) that cost $15 ( as opposed to $60 plus for oem ) Never had a problem. I use Valvoline Durablend Semi synth 10/40 and change at 10K intervals.

[bennjamin]

No. Genuine stuff is a rip off. I use Ryco oil filters, and Wesfil air filters ( identical ) that cost $15 ( as opposed to $60 plus for oem ) Never had a problem. I use Valvoline Durablend Semi synth 10/40 and change at 10K intervals.

Appreciate your input - and in general I agree. If you change oil and filter every 5,000kms and drive at a normal pace in normal conditions go for it.

But the fact is OEM parts and fluids will generally out last/ live and perform any aftermarket equivalent there is.

[Jasemas]

What if your Honda came out before it was recommended to use Genuine OEM fluid? Weren't the engines designed with certain tolerances in mind/viscosity labels in relations to oil?
Say the manual recommends SAE certified oil as long as its the correct weight i,e 5w-30?.
I'm being a bit vague here.

[trism]

Appreciate your input - and in general I agree. If you change oil and filter every 5,000kms and drive at a normal pace in normal conditions go for it.

But the fact is OEM parts and fluids will generally out last/ live and perform any aftermarket equivalent there is.


Do you think honda has their own manufacturing plant, where they do it all in house?

The oil filters are manufactured by 4 different companies, yes, fair enough they have to meet hondas quality standards, but why do you assume that other aftermarket filters dont also meet these standards? For example, Ryco filters are designed to meet OEM standards, and you dont void your warranty by using them.

As for the oil, its a different brand, and a different blend depending on what part of the world youre in, so again, id rather get the cheaper aftermarket alternative.

in terms of other fluids, brake fluid is the same no matter where you go, but as you know, the PS, MTF and ATF fluid are all honda specific. However quite a few aftermarket companies make these fluids, and i would have no qualms using them over the OEM stuff.


As for the very last part of your post, id love to see some definitive, real world results that can prove that OEM parts and fluids will outlast and outperform aftermarket gear.

[trism]

What if your Honda came out before it was recommended to use Genuine OEM fluid? Weren't the engines designed with certain tolerances in mind/viscosity labels in relations to oil?
Say the manual recommends SAE certified oil as long as its the correct weight i,e 5w-30?.
I'm being a bit vague here.

its a bit of a wank.

Fluids are a different issue because they are HOnda specific. Most cars just use ATF for the power steering, but Honda has a specific formula, but most aftermarket companies make it. So when buying PS/ATF/MTF, gotta always make sure it says suitable for hondas.

As for the engine oil, if its a stock motor, id just be using a good quality mineral, in the minimum weight you can, to reduce friction. (so if the car burns oil at 10w30, but not with 15w40, obviously dont go thinner than the 15w40)

[Tonkatsu]

Actually should have made it a bit more clear in the original post.

Normally I'm not a fan of OEM service parts simply due to availability and silly pricing, BUT in this case there is exceptions.

E.g a Ryco oil filter for the Jazz (Z547) is $19 from supercheap. From a little research online I've found genuine oil filters for as low as $12. Same goes with Engine Oil, a quality aftermarket oil like Castrol Edge is normally $50+ when its not on special. I have found genuine honda FEO oil for $40 and less.

So in this specific situation, it doesn't make sense for me to go after market. Normally I don't care about Genuine or not as long as its good quality.

[trism]

Because Castrol edge is a synthetic group 3/4 oil designed for high performance cars, turbos etc etc etc, its SN rated

Honda FEO is a mineral oil, SL rated, so of course its going to be cheaper.

Theres no need to use castrol edge in a jazz, just like you wouldnt use 110octane racing fuel in it.

[stndrd]

Use Penrite Everyday semi synthetic in your jazz, along with Penrite Honda Power Steering Oil & Penrite DOT4 brake fluid. It is far superior to the Caltex based crap OEM fluids.

When it comes to filters, the Repco or Ryco options work well and are alot cheaper.

If your Jazz is CVT you need to use genuine fluid, otherwise use Penrite ATFMHP for automatics or Trans Gear 75W80 for manuals

[Jasemas]

Penrite ATFMHP for automatics or Trans Gear 75W80 for manuals
Penrite MHP Meets ATF Z1 viscosity levels. So if you don't want DW-1. Perfect alternative for you. I'm using it in my accord and there's no problems with it. $40 for 4 litres, can't go wrong

[Box]

can I use 5w-20 oil for the vibe-s will that affect my warranty at all?

[Rage King]

can I use 5w-20 oil for the vibe-s will that affect my warranty at all?

i believe 5w/30 is the recommended oil for this car. No you will not void your warranty for using this blend of oil - unless you DIY the service then yes you void the warranty.

[stndrd]

can I use 5w-20 oil for the vibe-s will that affect my warranty at all?

Dont waste your time going so thin. Use a 5W30 or a 5w40

[Box]

thanks guys....0w-20 is the recommend oil I think for new jazz

[Daveho1]

on oil recommendations like that if you go aftermarket make SURE it meets specifications.

as a side note most honda oil filters are the same, go and compare a genuine honda oil filter to the ryco z79a that is recommended by ryco, although it probably makes no difference they arnt the same size or shape. just saying

[amant02]

I just moved away from OEM Oils and Filters this service on the Jazz. Finally made the switch to Royal Purple 10-50w with Hamp Filter. The motor sounds much better, that annoying lifter sound has gone.

I would only use OEM for CVT (every 15-20k) and Power steering fluids (My jazz don't even require this), apparently they are belt driven or something like that.

Rest aftermarket has worked much better in my case.

[Daveho1]

10-50 seems a bit thick to me, why that weight? and dont the jazz also have a solid valve train? so "that annoying lifter sound" could be taken care of by performing a valve adjustment (or have honda moved to hydrolic on the jazz?)

[amant02]

I moved to 10-50 as motor just hit 94xxxKM and the brakes went out. Took me a week to source Bendix Ultimates. Since the car was up on jackstands i saved my self time and did the 5k service home service. That lifter sound was annoying, lifter free from repco required new oil. At 10000KM i will get the major from Honda quoted $1600, valve adjustment head gasket new filters pumps seals and what not.

Oh wait u asked why this weight, tbh i felt like the FEO was too light, even though it wasn't burning any oil. Idunno impluse buy maybe? But the lifter sound has gone away now.

[Jasemas]

Lifer sound - valve adjustment
At 1600 for the 100k km service? You can do most of it yourself

[amant02]

1600 includes more things thats required. Ill post a copy of the final bill from honda on my build thread later. I rather get a dealer to do it for the log book. We have maintained the log book properly.

[fundies]

I just moved away from OEM Oils and Filters this service on the Jazz. Finally made the switch to Royal Purple 10-50w with Hamp Filter. The motor sounds much better, that annoying lifter sound has gone.

I would only use OEM for CVT (every 15-20k) and Power steering fluids (My jazz don't even require this), apparently they are belt driven or something like that.

Rest aftermarket has worked much better in my case.


Power steering in the Jazz is electric pump, not old style belt driven hydraulic. It's a sealed unit requiring no fluid top up.

PS, there are no lifters in the Jazz. You may have some tappet noise if the clearances have gone out, but remember that the Jazz can also get tight clearances, which are more damaging to an engine than loose valves. Checking clearances in the GD Jazz is a pain in the arse, with a very fiddly removal of the entire intake plenum. The GE is a little easier, as the intake plenum is two piece, which makes the job much easier.

Are you sure that the "ticking" noise you are hearing isn't just the fuel injectors ? They make a loud ticking noise in the Jazz, and most fuel injected cars.

[amant02]

I had the dealership(Tom Kerr Mazda) re adjust the tappets at 90k which i highly doubt they did and charged me for, but I cannot prove this, sound was still there. They blamed it on a loose fan belt. So i took it to a 3rd Party Mech he advised me that it was normal injector sound as you mentioned and its not hurting the motor. With my missus nagging me to get the sound fixed, desperately searched the net, and the nulon lifter free product came up and some videos on youtube with the same sound form the same motor. So tired the solution offered and it worked!

I agree with that intake setup of the stock jazz, it was a pain in the ass to replace a air filter. Very tight fit under the bonnet.

[Daveho1]

but lifter free is for hydrolic lifters which your car dosnt have. you just puting random crap in your oil now.. the fact of that matter is that eather the sound is just normal injector noise, in which case you can tell the wife that or your car needs a valve adjustment.
its not a solution is just disguising a problem

[Jasemas]

but lifter free is for hydrolic lifters which your car dosnt have. you just puting random crap in your oil now.. the fact of that matter is that eather the sound is just normal injector noise, in which case you can tell the wife that or your car needs a valve adjustment.
its not a solution is just disguising a problem

This x100000000000000000000000

[stndrd]

Lifter free is simply a viscosity modifier that thins your oil. Why put a 10W50 in it if you are adding lifter free that will thin it to a 10W40?

[amant02]

Point noted, thanks guys. I will book in the service at Honda, once we can organise a day where the car can be off the road.

[10KRPM]

Anyone else had the starter clutch on the cvt redone? and what price? mine is (i think) and am thinking of biting the bullet and having it redone. Hate babying the car on hills and traffic lights to avoid the shuddering. Once it gets moving though its fine, changing to manual mode also helps quite abit but meh would rather it work in D mode. Anywhere from 1000-1300 is what ive been seeing on google search. This about right?

[stndrd]

just convert it to manual

[fundies]

You've already replaced the CVT fluid with genuine Honda CVT stuff ?

[amant02]

^^

Do what he says, Flush it a few times. 2-3. I know CVT Oil is expensive - $100 per bottle at my Local Dealer. But i rather spend that 200-300 bucks over $1600. It will fix the problem for about another 15-20000KM, then repeat.

[10KRPM]

Yeah have replaced it 2 years in a row now. Just lately it has become significantly worse. 2nd flush didnt do much at all to be honest.

[fundies]

Yeah have replaced it 2 years in a row now. Just lately it has become significantly worse. 2nd flush didnt do much at all to be honest.

Bloody gearboxes !!!!!!!

Bought an 04 Toyota Corolla 5 speed for the sons first car, looks immaculate, only 75K km's. We noticed a slight bearing noise in the front after we bought it, been getting worse of late ( really bad ). Just dropped it in to the mechanics this morning and waiting on the bad news. Apparently 04 Corolla's have a problem with gearbox bearings going bad, even after low mileage. We bought a Corolla for their "bulletproof" reputation, but looks like it may be a big dollar gearbox fix. Fingers crossed it's just a wheel bearing, but I doubt it.

[Daveho1]

genuine honda parts fix dat carrolla fella

[fundies]

genuine honda parts fix dat carrolla fella

Haha. Just a pair of wheel bearings ( and a few other bits, new discs, pads ) thank Budha. But, mechanic said previous owners mechanic put in very nasty front brake pads, which lead to overheating of the front discs and bearings, causing them to fail early. So whatever parts you use, use the best quality !!!!!!

[jazcivic]

Hi All. Haven't posted here for a long2 while.

Re spare parts and oil filter costs,
when holidaying in Thailand I bought 10 genuine filters for $5.50 each and a drive shaft outer joint ('96 EK Civic) for $30 (not China made).
My last holiday in Bali, I bought another 10 Honda genuine oil filters at $6 each.
I've also bought Daikin/Greddy clutches and bearings at half price.

Just have to be cautious that you're getting the genuine stuff !
Alot of bad/poor quality parts suppliers/manufacturers out there and difficult to return once money has changed hands.
I look after the family fleet of 3 Civics, GE Vibe-S and a 206 GTi (a no no car for a novice).
My family gets a good laugh out of it when I go spare parts hunting while on holiday.

[Daveho1]

i personally dont think its worthwhile going genuine parts for filters but if you get em at a good price why not, id take ryco any plus they are under $8 of a local shelf.

why do you think a 206 gti is a no no car for novices? i think its a no no car generally as they tend to be alot of trouble..

[sensei_]

Hi All. Haven't posted here for a long2 while.

Re spare parts and oil filter costs,
when holidaying in Thailand I bought 10 genuine filters for $5.50 each and a drive shaft outer joint ('96 EK Civic) for $30 (not China made).
My last holiday in Bali, I bought another 10 Honda genuine oil filters at $6 each
...
My family gets a good laugh out of it when I go spare parts hunting while on holiday.

are you sure these are genuine filters? i have seen factories pumping out fake filters complete with the manufacturer's packaging.

[jazcivic]

are you sure these are genuine filters? i have seen factories pumping out fake filters complete with the manufacturer's packaging.

You're right that there are many imitation filters with manufacturer's packaging.
So far, I've been lucky. I've used 8 out of the 10 from Thailand and no problems
has surfaced, except our 2005 GD3 was written off last February.
Now our 2012 GE will carry on sharing the remainder of the filters with
the other 3 Civics.

[jazcivic]

i personally dont think its worthwhile going genuine parts for filters but if you get em at a good price why not, id take ryco any plus they are under $8 of a local shelf.

why do you think a 206 gti is a no no car for novices? i think its a no no car generally as they tend to be alot of trouble..

The 206 GTi (2001 model) can be alot of trouble for novices wrt maintenance and trouble shooting.
I spent about $1000 on spare parts and alot of my time in sorting out suspension, steering and all engine mounts repairs.
It doesn't dive to the left under brakes ! The engine doesn't rattle2 jiggle2 anymore.
The jarring thud on take off has disappeared.
While I was at it, I replaced the rear disk and pads.

The driver's door rattles. The boot rattles.
The previous owner said the Dealer had tried to fix it but to no avail.
Really, it's just patience and adjustment to get it right !
All the above is now sorted.
The engine, suspension, steering feels tight and good to drive now.
I haven't had time to tune and tweak it like CAI etc..

The gear linkage is my next job on my 'to do' list.
Then next is the bearing noise on the gear box. The engine's done only 86,000 km !
They are troublesome compared to the Hondas.

Do you want to buy a car Dave ? LOL

[Daveho1]

lol nope i do Peugeot parts daily mate, i was actually helping a customer diagnose a fly by wire (very sluggish response) issue but with no CEL, this was a common issue on the 206 gti one fix was a cable tie around the connections on the throttle body as it shakes loose, another was a fuel quality issue but the cleaner is extremely expensive.. and very time consuming to follow the procedure, the other fix is either a new throttle body or a new accelerator pedal... as you can imagine both are super cheap lol but when they work properly they are fun cars haha