Uni-chip

[philipminge]

sup guys,

anyone used UNI-CHIP q box to tune their Euro's?

if so let me know how it was....

[philipminge]

So the uni chip has been installed. Tune to be done Monday as they were busy to do it all in a day.
Anyone interested in tuning their euro's

[08r3308]

where did you get it done? so plug and play?

manual or auto

[axispower]

yes details please.

[philipminge]

Its a 2006 accord euro Luxury.

MANUAL... (people on here who are into hondas and driving hard buy autos???)

i believe it is somewhat plug and play. i never got the full details, i kind of just said do it... i will find out tomorrow exactly what was done.

i got it done by ART - Auto racing teknic in West heidelberg. He is an absolute brain! good at what he does i believe. Well i should get the car back tomorrow ad will post up the results. im not aiming for a million kw, but an extra 15-20 would be idea. lol

let you know tomorrow if its worth doing!!!

[Fredoops]

Qbox? Isn't that a piggyback?

In that case wouldn't it be more cost efficient to get a Greddy eManage Ultimate or Haltech Platinum? Something that can be easily resold and tuned at other shops if you decide to upgrade?

Speaking of eManage, I remembered someone here is selling one for $700 odd with a tune in it.

[philipminge]

so after getting my car back last night, i have been doing some thrashing.

i gained 9 front wheel kw in the high End range. vtec is where you feel this power. it kicks in hard and pulls hard. its fun as!

issue is im missing approx 7kw out of the car. my tuner was not happy.

he predicts its from my cat and headers. i reckon its from my cat and exhaust.

the car pulled 133.2kw ATW. the issue is at about 6800 rpm, the car spikes several times - it does not build any more power but just goes up and down up and down like 6 times.
so something is wrong somewhere. im going to start slowly by changing a few things.also possibly going to a single exhaust system... J's 60rs.

i believe a stock standard euro on his dyno pulls about 117 ATW.

now he believes it should be up near the 140 mark. maybe 138ish

i will first change my cat to a high flow cat. (dont ask me why previous owner didnt put one but whatever. was not my doing) i always buy stock cars and do it myself but this car was too clean to give up. lol

lets see how this goes.

has anyone used JTune products????
if so let me know!!!

[axispower]

how much did this cost all up?

[Fredoops]

so after getting my car back last night, i have been doing some thrashing.

i gained 9 front wheel kw in the high End range. vtec is where you feel this power. it kicks in hard and pulls hard. its fun as!

issue is im missing approx 7kw out of the car. my tuner was not happy.

What mods have you got?
At what RPM did the tuner set the VTEC engagement?



he predicts its from my cat and headers. i reckon its from my cat and exhaust.

Your tuner is right (if your header is stock), it's unlikely the exhaust, accord euro catback is very free flowing. the choke point is header and cat.


the car pulled 133.2kw ATW. the issue is at about 6800 rpm, the car spikes several times - it does not build any more power but just goes up and down up and down like 6 times.
Sounds like the redline


so something is wrong somewhere. im going to start slowly by changing a few things.also possibly going to a single exhaust system... J's 60rs.
Do exhaust last, it's not gonna make much difference.


i believe a stock standard euro on his dyno pulls about 117 ATW.

now he believes it should be up near the 140 mark. maybe 138ish


That depends on the dyno *shrugs*


i will first change my cat to a high flow cat. (dont ask me why previous owner didnt put one but whatever. was not my doing) i always buy stock cars and do it myself but this car was too clean to give up. lol

Intake Header Cat is the order people here usually do, then it's exhaust/IM/TB and VTC


has anyone used JTune products????
Few people here have it, really expansive for what you get.

As a guide:

Intake: K&N typhoon makes most HP (Icebox 2nd, Injen 3rd)
Header: Weapon R header or PLM headers are the 2 most popular here.

Both race headers means you'll need at least 25' VTC, which happens to be the highest angle the stock VTC can go.

Also give this a read, should help
http://www.hondata.com/tuning_k24a2_tsx_engine.html

[philipminge]

cost was 1300 and was most deff not worth that for 10kw.

Fredoops: thanks for your awesome feedback.

the 140kw mark i was talking about was on his dyno.

it spiked before redline. it was strange.

what is better: the weapon R or the PLM... and can you provide a link to the better one where i can purchase from???

also what high flow cat do people run??? and where can we buy from???

also please provide a link to the typhoon intake???

i just want to check this stuff out.

i dont know what header, cat, exhaust the car has.

some dooch bag put it all on. lol

[Fredoops]

cost was 1300 and was most deff not worth that for 10kw.

Fredoops: thanks for your awesome feedback.

the 140kw mark i was talking about was on his dyno.

it spiked before redline. it was strange.

what is better: the weapon R or the PLM... and can you provide a link to the better one where i can purchase from???

also what high flow cat do people run??? and where can we buy from???

also please provide a link to the typhoon intake???

i just want to check this stuff out.

i dont know what header, cat, exhaust the car has.

some dooch bag put it all on. lol

Dude post the dyno readout and the graph, I reckon I know what they've done (or haven't done)

I reckon my $250 piggyback can produce similar power... lol

And take a photo of behind the engine, I can probably tell which header it is.

PLM and Weapon R headers come with a test pipe, so you just have to cut and weld a metal cat on (most exhaust shops have metal cats).
- They are both avail on eBay.
- I personally prefer Weapon R, because you dont have to modify the catback (with PLM you have to cut the catback to make a Cat fit)

K&N intake is avail on Amazon.com
- http://www.amazon.com/69-0025TP-Typhoon-Intake-Complete-Polished/dp/B000COC2B4/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Acura|58&Model=TSX|2414&Year=2004|2004&carId=001&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive

[philipminge]

Lol not happy I must say.
I will post some pics soon. I also have to get the dyno graph.
So with the weapon r you must cut n weld flanges on....? I was just gonna buy a cat. Pm me ur email n I'll send u some pics

[Steve D]

you really cant expect much when still on the 25 degree VTC gear. when i first installed my flashpro i used a hondata base map, it kept the VTC at 25 degrees, when i dyno'd the car it made 132kw and that was a pretty shitty tune, we adjusted the VTC to 45 degrees and the power bumped another 9kw to 141kw, then when the tune was complete it made 146kw.

[u mad?]

you really cant expect much when still on the 25 degree VTC gear. when i first installed my flashpro i used a hondata base map, it kept the VTC at 25 degrees, when i dyno'd the car it made 132kw and that was a pretty shitty tune, we adjusted the VTC to 45 degrees and the power bumped another 9kw to 141kw, then when the tune was complete it made 146kw.

who tuned

[Steve D]

BYP did the tuning, i had also run the car on 2 other dyno's at the time after speculation of BYP being a little smart with the peak numbers, and it made 149kw on one and 144 on the other.

[philipminge]

OK can someone explain this vtc shit to me for a cl9 euro.

What Im after ideally would be 145 kW. I'd be happy with that.

I believe the uni chip is capable to my understanding but how do I get there. I also don't want to damage the engine. Heard of some tuners running the car lean and squeezing results and the engines last 12months. Don't want that.

Anyway so who knows cl9's back the front? Who can run the car on a dyno and retune or alter the vtc gear etc.

P.s. I'm not asking for 160kw... Would be amazing but just want a bit more.

[philipminge]

Byp.. Why r all the good companies in Sydney. Ats some bulls*** right there.
Melbourne has nothing.
Anyone know anyone in Melb that knows Hondas?

[Fredoops]

No, with plm you have to modify the stock catback, with weapon r you don't, since both produce very similar powers and weapon r is somewhat better made, I'd go with weapon r.

In relation to tuning. There's actually a few good places in melbourne that do Hondas
MSC and Revzone comes to mind, both fully registered and insured workshops.

When all else fails you can always get an etune, send your dump data overseas and get them to send you a tuning file to load.

And I'll be trying to do some hacking of the cl9's ecu soon myself, goig for a direct reflash of the memory chip on the ecu board, none of those piggyback or tricking the ecu (ala flashpro) nonsense.

As to VTC, it regulates the cam phasing, in turn it regulates how the engine breathe.

Post photos onto photobucket and link it here, I'll be interested to see he dyno graph

[philipminge]

im getting the dyno graph hopefully this morning so i will post it up asap!. wont be long.

[philipminge]

well?? why does this look so s***. lol

[Fredoops]

well?? why does this look so s***. lol

Well first of all, the tuner didnt move the VTC engagement point.

Most tuners would've lowered the VTEC engagement down to between 4500-5500 rpm depending on set up.

Did they tune anything other than AFR? whats the torque output look like?

[philipminge]

he said if he lowers the vtec, there is a huge dip in power before the vtec kicks in.....
i just asked for the torque curve then! shouldnt be long

[Fredoops]

he said if he lowers the vtec, there is a huge dip in power before the vtec kicks in.....


that doesnt sound right, at all

looky here;
http://www.hondata.com/reflash_tsx.html

http://www.hondata.com/images/dynotsx-stock-vs-reflash.gif

this VTEC is lowered to 5000rpm, I dont see any dips, do you?

Oh and give this guide a read, it's for a Civic SI, which is also a K with the same Ivtec setup
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/hondata/185138-hondata-guide-tuning.html

[Fredoops]

Oh and give this a read ( i know it's for a Civic with 50 degree VTC but the general principle applies non the less):



http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/hondata/185138-hondata-guide-tuning.html

General procedure for from-scratch tuning of the K-Series engines
- Set ignition timing to stock
- Set VTEC high (6500-7000 rpm) to tune low speed cam
1. Set both cam angle tables all to zero degrees and dyno tune ignition and fuel tables
2. Repeat dyno tuning of ignition and fuel tables with both cam tables all set to 15, 20, 30, 40, 50 degrees
3. Analyze dyno curves, then set cam angle table at each rpm to angle with best power
4. Dyno again with new composite curve (you may want to “bracket” by a few degrees up and down to see if optimal)
- Set VTEC low (2000-3000 rpm) to tune high speed cam, and repeat above procedure
- Set the VTEC crossover RPM
- Part throttle also needs to be tuned (part throttle = columns 7 and lower)
1. At part throttle/cruising (columns 2-7, 1500-4500 rpm) cam angle should be around 30 degrees. This will use EGR effect to reduce emissions and improve fuel economy
2. At higher rpms in part throttle, set angle to same as full load so that cam angle won’t go down during shifts.
3. 500-8100 rpm’s and columns 1-2 are the deceleration sections of the map and prefer lower cam angles (cam lobe centers are separated, valve overlap is minimal and there is little contamination of intake fuel going into the exhaust system).


^^ this is precisely why it takes all day to tune a K-powered Honda properly

[philipminge]

mate im a wog right.... all that is like me trying to read chinese....
this is how a normal person looks at it.....
- take car to tuning shop
- get car back and it sucks
- ask people why and find someone to fix it.

lol all the info is mad... and im trying to understand it.... but my knowledge on tuning is VERY limited. ask me to fit coilovers or change engine mounts or any hardware... all good...

get me to tune a car.... no idea.

im trying to learn as much as i can.

i asked him to drop vtec and he said there is a major dip in power if he drops vtec.
going by your dyno charts... first of all mine look nothing like that! second, i dont understand why he did not adjust vtc timing and or why he didnt just drop vtec.
is he finding an easy way out and cant be f***** or is he just trying to keep it simple and stick to what he knows.

im assuming changing the VCT does not harm the engine.... so how does he not do it.

look at this stage my car is running I/H/E and a uni chip.... i thought i would get a tad more power.

what do you think can be done? and or who can i take it too that wont rip me another 1300. lol

[u mad?]

pm evaqu8

he seems to know all the right people in melb

doubt hed check the accord forums out.


edit-- this guy http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/member.php?7774-IEVAQ8

[Fredoops]

mate im a wog right.... all that is like me trying to read chinese....
You'll learn trust me.


is he finding an easy way out and cant be f***** or is he just trying to keep it simple and stick to what he knows.

Or option 3, he's limited by his hardware. Theres a reason unichip is not popular among Honda's, chances are his hands are tied over what engine functions he can touch.



im assuming changing the VCT does not harm the engine.... so how does he not do it.
See above, he might not able to change Cam advance, who knows.

Oh if you are taking abotu the VTC mechanism, thats a hardware you need to change.


look at this stage my car is running I/H/E and a uni chip.... i thought i would get a tad more power.
Depends on IHE, but not lowering the Vtec engagement is a disappointment


what do you think can be done? and or who can i take it too that wont rip me another 1300. lol
First of all, decide on turning hardware, whether it be Unichip or Greddy or Haltech or Hondata, need to research and understand which engine functions each can control, because that impacts on what you can tune.

Sadly with Uni-chip you are pretty much locked in, since only selected places can tune uni-chips, it's not like Greddy or Haltech where a load of places can do them.

[philipminge]

i just spent 1300 im not gonna throw the uni chip out. lol

well if i want to keep the uni chip - i dont have much of a choice but to deal with it really...?

fk. lucky with my s2k i did my own research and didnt rely on tuners to tell me.

do you know why the dyno chart jumps at vtec engagement?
and what do i buy to be able to change the vtc. and who can change it?

if i have to change the computer again its not worth it i think. rather spend the money on my s2k. lol

just sucks balls really. i mean the euro goes alright, but it does need more. just that bit more. (so shattered)

[Fredoops]

do you know why the dyno chart jumps at vtec engagement?


VTEC KICKED IN YO.

lol, it's the high cam been switched so engine breathe differently


and what do i buy to be able to change the vtc. and who can change it?
you need to get the stock VTC actuator (25 degree( and take it to a machinist and machine it to 45 degree by grinding parts off.

[philipminge]

so your saying its normal for that to happen?

why dont i see that on other graphs?

[Fredoops]

so your saying its normal for that to happen?

why dont i see that on other graphs?

It's normal for that to happen on a factory tune for the cl9

the other graph doesn't have it because it's tuned to maximise gains all across the rev range, hence the much smoother curve.

once again, it's down to the tune, which can be night and day in terms of differences.

[philipminge]

Just found out my exhaust is a tanabe medallion exhaust. Thought these were quite good?

[DreadAngel]

Tanabe Medallion depends which spec man... But in general they're good ;)

[Fredoops]

Just found out my exhaust is a tanabe medallion exhaust. Thought these were quite good?

Yes, very well made

As I said, catback don't make much difference.

[philipminge]

I already had to weld a broken exhaust hanger. Lol. I'm trying to find a cl7 intake manifold. Lol need more power!!!!

[DreadAngel]

It's probably getting on in age...

[Fredoops]

I already had to weld a broken exhaust hanger. Lol. I'm trying to find a cl7 intake manifold. Lol need more power!!!!

You mean a RBC manifold for the K20 (ala DC5 Integra type r)

you do realise you're gonna lose torque with that right?

[philipminge]

So I spoke with a Honda tuner today. He says: type r intake manifold (because they flow the best) heavier valve springs, good air intake and a hondata... Says potentially push 160kw... That's what I'm after!!!!
Lol

Input welcome!!!

[stndrd]

Type R intake manifold. Does he mean DC5, FD2 or FN2?

The DC5 manifold (PRB) is not the best. The RBC (found on Euro R) is a cheap upgrade that will net decent gains. Next step up would be the RRC (found on FD2R) that will loose a bit more torque but gain a bit more up top, but cost more again. Then you have the RSP (found on FN2R) that is a combination of both (but harder to come by).

You still haven't answered what headers you have tho, so it would help if you let us know what is fitted.

If you want an RBC/RRC & J35 throttle body I can do them for good prices either supply only or supply & fitted

Edit: valve springs will not be needed unless you are upgrading camshafts. Also I would look into a 50 degree VTC for better camshaft tuning

[philipminge]

OK I have never been happier. I put my camera phone down the back where the headers are and I snapped a photo. Had a look at the photo and what to I see: TODA POWER - FOR OFFROAD USE ONLY.

hahaha score!!!!!!!!!
So my tuner was blaming the headers. They r toda.

[philipminge]

Maybe rbc manifold. Can u do a price on that with new throttle body?? Installed?

[Fredoops]

OK I have never been happier. I put my camera phone down the back where the headers are and I snapped a photo. Had a look at the photo and what to I see: TODA POWER - FOR OFFROAD USE ONLY.

hahaha score!!!!!!!!!
So my tuner was blaming the headers. They r toda.

You probably have to get rid of the piggypack, looks like the piggy is limited in it's functions (or your tuner really suck)

[stndrd]

PM sent

[philipminge]

I'm told my tuner today I want it removed. So it will be out next week and goodbye. I want 160kw now.
Lol I'm trying to build my s2k but for every day driver I want more power. This is the reason for my questions. Thanks to all the boys helpin me out. Champions!

All input welcome.

[Fredoops]

I'm told my tuner today I want it removed. So it will be out next week and goodbye. I want 160kw now.
Lol I'm trying to build my s2k but for every day driver I want more power. This is the reason for my questions. Thanks to all the boys helpin me out. Champions!

All input welcome.


If you're an everyday then i'd say mid range is more important than top end power.

And whom ever tunes the car will need to tune part throttle.

[philipminge]

Is the RBC intake manifold from a cl7?

Also what is the difference between stock and j35 throttle body strndrd???

[Fredoops]

Is the RBC intake manifold from a cl7?

Here this should help you
http://www.superstreetonline.com/techarticles/sstp_1002_k_series_intake_manifold_shootout/viewall.html


Also what is the difference between stock and j35 throttle body strndrd???
J35 Throttlebody is out of a honda V6 (J35 = J-series 3.5 liter V6), it's bigger in diameter (ie: more air goes in)

[stndrd]

Yes the RBC is from CL7 Euro R. The J35 throttle body has a bigger internal diameter than the factory K24 throttle body and still retains drive by wire

[philipminge]

And if I tune with hondata is it worth going heavier valve springs.... And also what do I do with this vtc valve gear?

[DreadAngel]

OK I have never been happier. I put my camera phone down the back where the headers are and I snapped a photo. Had a look at the photo and what to I see: TODA POWER - FOR OFFROAD USE ONLY.

hahaha score!!!!!!!!!
So my tuner was blaming the headers. They r toda.


So I spoke with a Honda tuner today. He says: type r intake manifold (because they flow the best) heavier valve springs, good air intake and a hondata... Says potentially push 160kw... That's what I'm after!!!!
Lol

Input welcome!!!

Your tuner isn't very bright by the sounds of it... What tuner doesn't check out fully a car first before starts working on it?


I'm told my tuner today I want it removed. So it will be out next week and goodbye. I want 160kw now.
Lol I'm trying to build my s2k but for every day driver I want more power. This is the reason for my questions. Thanks to all the boys helpin me out. Champions!

All input welcome.

You want 160kW out of the K24A you mean?

For daily you're focusing far too much on peak performance... If you want to get a hustle on in the daily grind ie Mojo <5000rpm, like Fredoops said, Mid-Range is what you're focusing on. You want better mid range? Work with a Tuner that isn't an idiot for one and that understands how to get even more torque. My personal tuner was able to add a whole ton of 'balls' to my 1.6L while peak power did increase a little.

[DreadAngel]

And if I tune with hondata is it worth going heavier valve springs.... And also what do I do with this vtc valve gear?

Stop for a moment and plan out what you're really after first then start talking mods man.

You've already been stung hard...

[philipminge]

OK well I spoke to the tuner. I'm Getting my money back.
I'm just talkin s*** lol not looking for only peak power. ...
I want drivability and torque. Just want a good all rounder.
Has cold air intake. I H E.

Been doing some research and I'm looking at RBC intake and throttle body. Them have the car tuned with a Hondata. I'll do a bit more research and see.

All input welcome.

[axispower]

@OP: Flashpro, kpro or reflash?

Btw, Fredoops, have you decided on getting a choone? I just remembered some of your posts on older threads about Hondata tuning. What route would you take if you had to get a choone right now?

[Fredoops]

@OP: Flashpro, kpro or reflash?

Btw, Fredoops, have you decided on getting a choone? I just remembered some of your posts on older threads about Hondata tuning. What route would you take if you had to get a choone right now?


I'm going the DIY route.

[axispower]

I'm going the DIY route.

What is the DIY route?

[Fredoops]

What is the DIY route?

Hacking.

[u mad?]

fredoops ganna tune himself

if you do enough reading its more then possible to the average car savvy bloke i reckon.

if you have the patients to learn

[philipminge]

axispower: i dont know what hondata yet. what do people recommend?

tomorrow im having the uni chip removed. was a major disappointment. everyone talking about lowering their vtec and cars drastically improving in the torque range... mine did not at all.

so the car currently has:

Header: toda
Cat: Unknown
Exhaust: Tanabe medallion duel
Intake: k&n intake... (its short and sits behind the battery)

Parts to come soon
rbc intake manifold
J35 throttle body

also does anyone thing i should put heavier valve springs before i tune??

is it worth putting a set of BC cams??? lol

and what hondata?

[Fredoops]

Cat: get a jack and find what cat you are running.
Intake: get a cold air intake, not short ram.

Valve spring: No
Bc cams: No.

Hondata: Flashpro with acura tsx ecu, allow $2 grand including tuning and immo reset.



fredoops ganna tune himself

if you do enough reading its more then possible to the average car savvy bloke i reckon.

if you have the patients to learn

I work in IT so I'm not gonna let a ****ing computer chip stop me.

[axispower]

Cat: get a jack and find what cat you are running.
Intake: get a cold air intake, not short ram.

Valve spring: No
Bc cams: No.

Hondata: Flashpro with acura tsx ecu, allow $2 grand including tuning and immo reset.




I work in IT so I'm not gonna let a ****ing computer chip stop me.

Why not do cams and valve springs with a tune?

[stndrd]

Why not do cams and valve springs with a tune?

Cams and valve springs will add another $2.2k +

[u mad?]

Cams and valve springs will add another $2.2k +

dont see why u wouldnt do it before tune, easy 10+kw atw

dpends how hectic he want his accord to be.

[philipminge]

OK car has toda headers... Don't think I'll be changing them.
BC cams allow 700 and springs about 300. Where did the 2k come from. I would install myself.
Changing pulleys... Please expand on that.
Yeah I will do cold air.. But do I have to relocate my battery? OK well the works are going to start.

Any input is welcome. Appreciate all ur comments. Its awesome.

Just tempting to do cams... Just a stage 1 or maybee 2.

[Fredoops]

Changing pulleys... Please expand on that.
light weight pulleys works like light weight flywheel, adds to response


Yeah I will do cold air.. But do I have to relocate my battery? OK well the works are going to start.
dont have to relocate battery for CAI

[vaikis]

This Uni-chip is big crap, no options to manage VTC. Best option today is Honda FlashPro - can tune even remotely on the road, no need for real Dyno. Support Accord CL9 (need to change ECU from TSX 07-08, same as for TSX 04-06 owners http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?162164-Hondata-FlashPro-tested-in-CL9-Euro-it-works-!!!-TSX-07-08-ECU-required.) and some CU2 (for CU2 no need to change ECU http://www.hondata.com/flashpro_intaccord.html)

[Chernoby1]

Hondata is "good" but far far from the best. The best thing about the pro is that its plug and play, everything ekse is average as phunk.

[philipminge]

wow this is too much for my little brain.

ok so ill stick with the rbc intake manifold and throttle body.

then hopefully sell everything else i own to go tsx 07-08 ecu with flash pro.

what vtc gear should be used?

so my car will remain reliable and wont blow itself to the shit when i do long trips. as this baby is a daily... its healthy as and i try keep it that way. its got 165xxx kms... im hoping it wont die. :(

so after all that maybe i should feel the torque i am after.
might leave cams out. cbf

[axispower]

dont see why u wouldnt do it before tune, easy 10+kw atw

dpends how hectic he want his accord to be.

yeah but for another 2 grand? no thanks jeff. To think getting a choone for approx 2 grand which gives how many kw approx? isnt enough...

[philipminge]

hey guys is this the typhoon intake people recommend?
this will fit right?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-N-KN-69-SERIES-TYPHOON-INTAKE-2004-2008-ACURA-TSX-CL9-K24A2-POLISH-69-0025TP-/310701170175?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item48573b9dff

[philipminge]

also anyone with a K&N typhoon CAI can they take a quick pic and post it. just want to see how it sits.
thanks in advance.

[axispower]

thats it. bit expensive though

[philipminge]

Oh... Where else can I buy it from cheaper. Anyone know?

Just finding it hard to find a pic of one installed... Where does all that pipe go? Lol

[axispower]

Heeltoe.com does it cheaper I'm pretty sure. Thats where I got mine from but have a look at their site I cant remember the price off the top of my head.

Thats what it looks and sounds like. Disregard the retarded American phaggot filming it.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HDsylgQDRE

[philipminge]

oh wow. thanks for that... lol a bloody video. champion.
looks pretty good.

[Andy]

Oh... Where else can I buy it from cheaper. Anyone know?

Just finding it hard to find a pic of one installed... Where does all that pipe go? Lol

If your planning on getting the RBC I'm not sure if the K&N typoon will bolt up to the RBC manifold.

As you can see here in this picture below the K&N Typhoon CAI outlet is angled downwards to be a straight bolt-on with the stock RBB manifold. If you compare the inlet positioning of the two manifolds it looks like the K&N CAI wont be a straight bolt-on to the RBC.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a37/weavef/IMGP0559.jpg

http://i989.photobucket.com/albums/af13/hawaiitromboneguy/66a7a8c8.jpg

[philipminge]

hmmmm interesting. cheers for that. another thing to work out.
thanks

[Fredoops]

Heeltoe.com does it cheaper I'm pretty sure. Thats where I got mine from but have a look at their site I cant remember the price off the top of my head.

Thats what it looks and sounds like. Disregard the retarded American phaggot filming it.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HDsylgQDRE


Amazon is the cheapest if you consider shipping.

Heeltoe shipping charges are a joke most of the time

[axispower]

^yeah ive noticed that.

[DreadAngel]

axispower: i dont know what hondata yet. what do people recommend?

tomorrow im having the uni chip removed. was a major disappointment. everyone talking about lowering their vtec and cars drastically improving in the torque range... mine did not at all.

so the car currently has:

Header: toda
Cat: Unknown
Exhaust: Tanabe medallion duel
Intake: k&n intake... (its short and sits behind the battery)

Parts to come soon
rbc intake manifold
J35 throttle body

also does anyone thing i should put heavier valve springs before i tune??

is it worth putting a set of BC cams??? lol

and what hondata?

Valve springs unnecessary unless you're going to raise you're redline [Necessary to bring out the full potential of cams beyond the least aggressive ones] or operating @ high rpm majority of the time [Racing conditions].

So which cams? Are you ready to sacrifice and shift your power/torque band some/lots? NA tuning peak power and torque increases usually comes at a price [Much larger than Force Induction]. If you keep the same displacement, dropping in aggressive cams will yield you better peak performance but you sacrifice low-mid range, you usually have to raise the redline for cams beyond the mild ones thus more stress on your engine and that's when parts need to start changing eg valvetrain and depending on your bottom end design, conrods usually have to change too. Idle becomes a factor too as the idle needs to be raised to compensate, lumpy idle isn't all its cracked up to be if you've not experienced a full worked engine especially with ITBs [Honda orientation usually away from driver... My Toyota was aimed square at me... Loud is an understatement]...

The argument then is are mild cams worth it? For the majority of people [The ones that are power hungry and aren't satisfied easily] the answer is no, after all the work you put in, the gains [Usually they read off only peak which isn't the best way to read the improvement of mild cams] aren't substantial enough to feel therefore disappointed they didn't go "bigger". Mild cams in general are there to improve the overall car restricting the engine from the factory cam's limitations. Peak gains aren't its focus.

[philipminge]

dreadangel thanks for that. makes sense perfectly.

well the rbc intake manifold has a different angle output that the stock cl9 one. so im not going to have to wait untill the intake manifold and throttle body go on. after that ill have to look at purchasing an intake to suit.
once all this is done the flash pro with the tsx ecu sounds good.

the only thing im questioning is it was stated earlier, the ecu needs to be suited to the cars immobilizer.

on so say i purchase the ecu and hondata (and the adapter cable) once i unplug the stock ecu and the plug in the new one, am i able to start the car and drive to a honda dealer? lol this is a dumb question, but as i said i have no experience with ecu's etc.

If the car does not start, what am i meant to do?

and imo - honda are absolute clown shoes - what do i say to make them understand what i need them to do...

thanks again guys.

[axispower]

and imo - honda are absolute clown shoes - what do i say to make them understand what i need them to do...


Ditto that. Walked in to ask them about the modulo/OEM lip kit for the CL9. Received a bertface.jpg followed by a perplexed question; "so yu wonn body kit?"

[u mad?]

go do some research on k20a.org.

[Andy]

dreadangel thanks for that. makes sense perfectly.

the only thing im questioning is it was stated earlier, the ecu needs to be suited to the cars immobilizer.

on so say i purchase the ecu and hondata (and the adapter cable) once i unplug the stock ecu and the plug in the new one, am i able to start the car and drive to a honda dealer? lol this is a dumb question, but as i said i have no experience with ecu's etc.

If the car does not start, what am i meant to do?

and imo - honda are absolute clown shoes - what do i say to make them understand what i need them to do...

thanks again guys.


Cuzz, I'll tell you what I did:
-Install the CAN adapter(MUST DO PRIOR GOING TO HONDA OR THE 06 TSX ECU WONT PROGRAM TO YOUR CAR!!)
-Call honda to book an ECU swap, just tell them you want to swap to a TSX ECU, maybe they'll understand, guy I spoke to did as he had done aftermarket ecu swaps with an EK4.
-Bring laptop and flashpro(had to wait 2 hours for my ecu swap, so having your laptop is advantageous, 2 hours wait... so bs -.-')
-after you get car back load up a flashpro calibration and enjoy :D

**Dont DIY swap the ECU because it the car wont start, trust bro. Just give the ECU to the mechanic at Honda**

**I got my ecu swap at narrewarren Honda charged me $160, essendon honda qouted $250 lmao**

**Note: the CAN adapter installation guide that comes with the Flashpro and the one that is listed on the Hondata website is incorrect for our Aus spec Euro's, a member on ozhonda called Jhim show me how to do it, his a top bloke. If you have Facebook, join AUSEURO, as Jhim is actively on there.

[Fredoops]

Cuzz, I'll tell you what I did:
-Install the CAN adapter(MUST DO PRIOR GOING TO HONDA OR THE 06 TSX ECU WONT PROGRAM TO YOUR CAR!!)
-Call honda to book an ECU swap, just tell them you want to swap to a TSX ECU, maybe they'll understand, guy I spoke to did as he had done aftermarket ecu swaps with an EK4.
-Bring laptop and flashpro(had to wait 2 hours for my ecu swap, so having your laptop is advantageous, 2 hours wait... so bs -.-')
-after you get car back load up a flashpro calibration and enjoy :D

**Dont DIY swap the ECU because it the car wont start, trust bro. Just give the ECU to the mechanic at Honda**

**I got my ecu swap at narrewarren Honda charged me $160, essendon honda qouted $250 lmao**

**Note: the CAN adapter installation guide that comes with the Flashpro and the one that is listed on the Hondata website is incorrect for our Aus spec Euro's, a member on ozhonda called Jhim show me how to do it, his a top bloke. If you have Facebook, join AUSEURO, as Jhim is actively on there.

that reminded me to get a Honda immobilizer recoder.

cheers

[philipminge]

Andy install the what... CAN... English please bro.

Also 06 tsx ecu... Thought it was 07-08.

OK buy all the shit. Book Honda appointment for ecu swap. They will put the new ecu in and program my key. Whatever.
Then u saif upload hondata calibration. Well that ****s me coz I have a Mac book. Won't be uploading anything. Once I get tsx ecu in I'll just find someone to tune it for me.

Also this vTC gear.... I heard its a pretty big job to change the gear.... Is this true?

[stndrd]

To replace vtc it is timing chain off

[philipminge]

Has jhim got a white euro. If so I saw a YouTube clip. Was amazing. That's exactly what I want my car to do. Haha

[philipminge]

And how much for u to do this bro? Lol

[philipminge]

Andy, does jhim exist on ozhonda. Tried sending him a pm but no luck. Says name don't exist.
Cheers

[Fredoops]

Andy install the what... CAN... English please bro.

You need to swap and splice some wires that's linked to your ecu.


Also this vTC gear.... I heard its a pretty big job to change the gear.... Is this true?
Yes, but worth it.

[vaikis]

Hondata is "good" but far far from the best. The best thing about the pro is that its plug and play, everything ekse is average as phunk.

ok get more power with this Uni-chip and I send you a box of beer. I tried this "crap" long time ago and won't use anymore.

[Fredoops]

The best are MoTeC and AEM units, but they cost $$$$

MoTeC and AEM EMS systems can support extra sensors and has inbuilt processing power waayyyyyy beyond what hondata can throw at it. But they aren't the most user friendly systems.

Face it, people use hondaa because they are easy to work with. hondata is the dummy camera compared to AEM and MoTeC which are professional DSLRs. To 99% of the people the dummy camera is sufficient.

I personally prefer EPROM reflashing, instead of the "roundabout" way hondata do them to trick the ecu into the new codes.

Bunch of folks in Russia had been flashing cl9s for a while now.

[vaikis]

The best are MoTeC and AEM units, but they cost $$$$

I personally prefer EPROM reflashing, instead of the "roundabout" way hondata do them to trick the ecu into the new codes.

Bunch of folks in Russia had been flashing cl9s for a while now.

I agree that MoTeC and AEM is nice, but it's not so friendly when connecting all stuff. So for simple people there is less options.
I know all these russian guys, a lot of them allready swapped TSX 07-08 ECU + FlashPro and made even more power. Some of them are tuned by me remotly. I even know 2 guys who are offerinf this EPROM reflashing. I saw how it's done and won't used that crap in my car !!!

[Fredoops]

I know all these russian guys, a lot of them allready swapped TSX 07-08 ECU + FlashPro and made even more power. Some of them are tuned by me remotly. I even know 2 guys who are offerinf this EPROM reflashing. I saw how it's done and won't used that crap in my car !!!

You mean opening up the ecu and connect wires? That's how hondata reflash work too.

Ktuner wound be different tho, that's like a "chipping" of the factory ecu

[vaikis]

You mean opening up the ecu and connect wires? That's how hondata reflash work too.

Ktuner wound be different tho, that's like a "chipping" of the factory ecu

there is two options how create EPROM, only 1 option of them is better from other. There is no need to open ECU if you want to reflash, it's much easier if you have right equipment.
Ktuner is nice option, but still not available for us :(

[Chernoby1]

Andy install the what... CAN... English please bro.


Pretty sure hed be talking about the Controller Area Network (CAN) adapter. As i have no expirience with flashpro setup, id guess you need a way to communicate with the ECU so you can re-program it.. the CAN adapter would let you do this.


ok get more power with this Uni-chip and I send you a box of beer. I tried this "crap" long time ago and won't use anymore.

I refuse to use piggy back systems. I was talking about complete stand alone systems. Getting more power isnt the important part, getting reliable power is and from my experience realllllly hard with piggy back style setup.

While i might be biased, the adaptronic range of ECU's provide a good value point. The E420d is $990, but is NOT plug and play. 99% sure you could use all of the stock sensors but you would still need to wire the thing up yourself.


The best are MoTeC and AEM units, but they cost $$$$

MoTeC and AEM EMS systems can support extra sensors and has inbuilt processing power waayyyyyy beyond what hondata can throw at it. But they aren't the most user friendly systems.


Not too keen to agree on the AEM ecus. Their older stuff was a bit shonky (imo), cant comment on new stuff as. The processing power of the ecu is not really relevant anymore. A new 'smartphone' has a faster processor. Its the software that matters most nowadays...

And i find motec stuff way easier to use than my s300 btw.



Face it, people use hondaa because they are easy to work with. hondata is the dummy camera compared to AEM and MoTeC which are professional DSLRs. To 99% of the people the dummy camera is sufficient.


I dislike the idea that people wont do something better because its 'harder'. Sure i can understand cost/time/ect... but cmon... youre modifying your car to be what you want, effort is implied isnt it? (unless youre only after the e-reps)


I agree that MoTeC and AEM is nice, but it's not so friendly when connecting all stuff. So for simple people there is less options.
Most of the sensory stuff is pretty straight forward to learn... cant believe people wouldnt want to know how the hell their cars worked if they were keen to modify them



I know all these russian guys, a lot of them allready swapped TSX 07-08 ECU + FlashPro and made even more power. Some of them are tuned by me remotly. I even know 2 guys who are offerinf this EPROM reflashing. I saw how it's done and won't used that crap in my car !!!
I dont see how different ecus would make / more less power really... come down to the tune, no?

And i passionately HATEEEEEE remote tuning. If youre talking about loading a premade map, thats not so bad (dont see why you'd not tune the thing properly though), but ive seen someone actually attempt to tune remotely and jeebus it failed.


You mean opening up the ecu and connect wires? That's how hondata reflash work too.

Ktuner wound be different tho, that's like a "chipping" of the factory ecu

Connecting wires would probably do the exact same thng as the CAN adapter....

Chipping is wayyy more risky (assuming they are desoldering a chip and putting something in its place)

[vaikis]

And i passionately HATEEEEEE remote tuning. If youre talking about loading a premade map, thats not so bad (dont see why you'd not tune the thing properly though), but ive seen someone actually attempt to tune remotely and jeebus it failed.




Seems you don't know how remote tuning is done with FlashPro or other system which has logging. User makes logs (finds nice road without traffic and makes run in 3rd gear), tuner changes values and sends new calibration - after ~ 20-25 changes user gets full tune. I would always say proper remote tune on the street is better then Dyno because it's real life conditions. Also not everywhere real Dyno is available, not everywhere you will find proper people who can do good tune! You can always go here and discuss with people which are doing street and Dyno tuning: http://flashprotuning.com/

[Andy]

Andy install the what... CAN... English please bro.

Also 06 tsx ecu... Thought it was 07-08.

OK buy all the shit. Book Honda appointment for ecu swap. They will put the new ecu in and program my key. Whatever.
Then u saif upload hondata calibration. Well that ****s me coz I have a Mac book. Won't be uploading anything. Once I get tsx ecu in I'll just find someone to tune it for me.

Also this vTC gear.... I heard its a pretty big job to change the gear.... Is this true?

philipminge, sorry yeh I meant 07-08, see you've learnt heaps in just a few days :D But i reckon don't buy all the shit until your completely satisfied and sure of what you need. VTC gear swap will take a couple hours(maybe more) to do if you've never done it before, but there's a few things in the installation you cant get wrong or your farrked!

[Chernoby1]

Seems you don't know how remote tuning is done with FlashPro or other system which has logging. User makes logs (finds nice road without traffic and makes run in 3rd gear), tuner changes values and sends new calibration - after ~ 20-25 changes user gets full tune. I would always say proper remote tune on the street is better then Dyno because it's real life conditions. Also not everywhere real Dyno is available, not everywhere you will find proper people who can do good tune! You can always go here and discuss with people which are doing street and Dyno tuning: http://flashprotuning.com/

I understand the process well (very popular with the Renault Sport guys).

Problems:
1) you are relying on thr factory knock sensor to pick up detention
2) you are relying on the stock oxygen sensor to work out the lambda
3) you are relying on the stock temperature sensors
4) on the street it is impossible to hold a specific amount of throttle at a certain rpm (HUGE DEAL)
5) you have no idea on the actual torque/power made (no real feedback)
6) Other minor things that would piss me off that I won't mention.

I dont care how skilled a person is, if theyre tuning it remotely or not, but a street tune cant compare to a dyno tune (assuming same tuner / time / ect)

Note: 3 of my cars ive tuned on the street myself with stock sensors. Yes you can get something that is pleasant to drive but in terms of tune quality... huge unknown. Only reason I havent gone on a dyno is that ill be undergoing some aubstantual changes to all 3 and spending money on a temporary arrangement doesnt make sense to me.

[Fredoops]

^^^ cant you go to a dyno to get the logs and get someone to do the remap?

[Chernoby1]

Yes, possible. However a log doesnt tell you the whole story. If you were to log EVERYTHING then maybe. But a lot of the time you can hear / feel / use your senses to work out things are not so great nice and quick (IE, less risk).
I would personally not feel comfortable DOING a tune remotely because of that. I can understand a tuner looking over a bunch of logs and making suggestions on how to make it better, but not actually doing the tuning himself...

If a tuner was completely comfortable with tuning remotely, i would nearly certainly walk away. There is a reason good tuners spend a lot of time travelling rather than doing everything remotely.
(Please note, i dont view the tune with the most power/torque to be the best tune... safety, reliability and drivability are what id look for.)

[philipminge]

OK this is wayyyyyy too technical for my brain at this stage. Lol I'm out.

[vaikis]

Yes, possible. However a log doesnt tell you the whole story. If you were to log EVERYTHING then maybe. But a lot of the time you can hear / feel / use your senses to work out things are not so great nice and quick (IE, less risk).
I would personally not feel comfortable DOING a tune remotely because of that. I can understand a tuner looking over a bunch of logs and making suggestions on how to make it better, but not actually doing the tuning himself...

If a tuner was completely comfortable with tuning remotely, i would nearly certainly walk away. There is a reason good tuners spend a lot of time travelling rather than doing everything remotely.
(Please note, i dont view the tune with the most power/torque to be the best tune... safety, reliability and drivability are what id look for.)

I suggest you to talk with real tuners which do real Dyno tuning and remote one. All can be done corretly if you know what are you doing. I have made several remote tunes which work better then there old tunes which were done on real dyno ! Each person have it's own view what is better.

[DreadAngel]

I suggest you to talk with real tuners which do real Dyno tuning and remote one. All can be done corretly if you know what are you doing. I have made several remote tunes which work better then there old tunes which were done on real dyno ! Each person have it's own view what is better.

Best tunes are a combination of Dyno followed up with Road tune.

Road tune by itself isn't that brilliant either...

[vaikis]

Best tunes are a combination of Dyno followed up with Road tune.

Road tune by itself isn't that brilliant either...

I would say all depends on tuner who is doing it. I have seen a lot of guys which can't do proper things even on Dyno.

[DreadAngel]

I would say all depends on tuner who is doing it. I have seen a lot of guys which can't do proper things even on Dyno.

I'm assuming the tuner is competent ;)

Assume you only do a Roadie then, exactly how much of racing conditions can you simulate without getting yourself into deep **** or killed? You maybe able to do the first 2 gears on part/full throttle but that doesn't give the tuner exactly a clear idea even if you repeat it 10x+. You need to take it up there with the higher gears for that total picture. Hence why Dyno + Road = Smarter choice ;)

[vaikis]

I'm assuming the tuner is competent ;)

Assume you only do a Roadie then, exactly how much of racing conditions can you simulate without getting yourself into deep **** or killed? You maybe able to do the first 2 gears on part/full throttle but that doesn't give the tuner exactly a clear idea even if you repeat it 10x+. You need to take it up there with the higher gears for that total picture. Hence why Dyno + Road = Smarter choice ;)

And what to do for guys when there is no any real Dyno around 1000km ? What options you suggest ?

[Chernoby1]

I suggest you to talk with real tuners which do real Dyno tuning and remote one. All can be done corretly if you know what are you doing. I have made several remote tunes which work better then there old tunes which were done on real dyno ! Each person have it's own view what is better.
I spend a reasonable amount of time with people doing engine development and research for manufacturers.... there is no way in hell they would be comfortable doing a tune remotely (but then again these same people spend like 100 dyno hours on a 'tune')


Best tunes are a combination of Dyno followed up with Road tune.

Road tune by itself isn't that brilliant either...

Dyno tuned but verified on the road, yes. Someone actually making changes based on expiriences on the road.... not so much. Notice something wrong, back to the dyno you (should) go.


And what to do for guys when there is no any real Dyno around 1000km ? What options you suggest ?
Tow the car 1000km's. I know a guy whos shipped his engine like 7500km's to get tuned.

[DreadAngel]

Move to city?

Serious Answer - Just to answer your 1/10000000000000000 scenario, book the nearest dyno to hook up and tune or your hook it up nearby and then move it to tuner [Have done so before]. What's better? Spend extra to do it smarter and safer OR try to tune and crash out with a dead ride/fined + loss of licence OR end up dead and not be able to enjoy life? You decide here ;)

[Chernoby1]

I have a feeling this guy might not be in Australia.

[DreadAngel]

I have a feeling this guy might not be in Australia.

Dem feelz...

Cyprus?

[vaikis]

Tow the car 1000km's. I know a guy whos shipped his engine like 7500km's to get tuned.

wow, this is insane.

[vaikis]

Move to city?

Serious Answer - Just to answer your 1/10000000000000000 scenario, book the nearest dyno to hook up and tune or your hook it up nearby and then move it to tuner [Have done so before]. What's better? Spend extra to do it smarter and safer OR try to tune and crash out with a dead ride/fined + loss of licence OR end up dead and not be able to enjoy life? You decide here ;)

I allready said each person has own preferences how all should be done. Ok there is tuner in 1000km, but makes crap tunes. Book and tune the car, you would be happy ?

[vaikis]

I have a feeling this guy might not be in Australia.

I'am from Europe, what it changes ? I do tunes on real dyno and on the street when have enough time. Build engines for friends and racing teams which use K20 or K24 honda engines. It's my hobby. Most of the time I spend working normal work as other people.

[DreadAngel]

I allready said each person has own preferences how all should be done. Ok there is tuner in 1000km, but makes crap tunes. Book and tune the car, you would be happy ?

Could always book your tuner to come out and hire the local dyno?

Check - Your Move :)

P.s - I'm playing...

[Chernoby1]

I would say go there and use his dyno, not use him!
You seem to be interested in this stuff (a very good thing :D) so i suggest buying something like this:
http://www.bookdepository.com/book/9780837603001?redirected=true&gclid=CIWg0dyJyrgCFShNpgodEyYApQ

Will give you a good starting point in how to tune and what youre looking at doing.
Learning to use the dyno isnt so easy unless the guy there knows how to use it properly.

Sure it might take you a long time but that is the best way to do it if nobody else can

[Chernoby1]

I'am from Europe, what it changes ?
In australia, if anyone was 1000km form a dyno, they would all be prepared to tow for 1000kms lol :D

[vaikis]

You seem to be interested in this stuff (a very good thing :D) so i suggest buying something like this:
http://www.bookdepository.com/book/9780837603001?redirected=true&gclid=CIWg0dyJyrgCFShNpgodEyYApQ


Theory sometimes are different from real life situations, I have a lot of books about engine managment and other stuff.

[vaikis]

In australia, if anyone was 1000km form a dyno, they would all be prepared to tow for 1000kms lol :D

not all, I know a few guys from Australia (both with Accord CL9 Euro) which prefer remote tuning. They are using this one - http://vittuned.com/

[Chernoby1]

Theory sometimes are different from real life situations, I have a lot of books about engine managment and other stuff.
Im not sure how much expirience youve had with tuning a car without a base tune (so youre starting from scratch)... this book came in handy to me a LOT. If you know the theory, you can usually work out how to things differ and what needs to be done differently.


Theory sometimes are different from real life situations, I have a lot of books about engine managment and other stuff.

I can nearly garuntee they dont live 1000km's from a dyno. Most people would prefer remote tune because it is easy...

[vaikis]

Im not sure how much expirience youve had with tuning a car without a base tune (so youre starting from scratch)... this book came in handy to me a LOT. If you know the theory, you can usually work out how to things differ and what needs to be done differently.


I have base tunes, but can do all from 0 without problems.

[Chernoby1]

Then youd know that tuning for power is the easy part :D
Cold starting usually takes me ages to sort out perfectly unless i live with the car :(

[philipminge]

so i have made up my mind. i will be going to sydney in september. im gonna drive up and drop my car off at BYP racing.

Benny is a top bloke and was happy to explain everything to me.

i will post the results of the dyno once i get them.

will be interesting. cheers for everyones help and yes ill be going with the tsx ecu and the hondata flashpro.

cheers guys... will keep everyone updated..

[Fredoops]

Why do you need to drive all the way up there when you can just get it done locally???

There's 2 very experienced Honda tuners in Melbourne,

One of which is a Hondata official dealer.

[axispower]

so i have made up my mind. i will be going to sydney in september. im gonna drive up and drop my car off at BYP racing.

Benny is a top bloke and was happy to explain everything to me.

i will post the results of the dyno once i get them.

will be interesting. cheers for everyones help and yes ill be going with the tsx ecu and the hondata flashpro.

cheers guys... will keep everyone updated..

http://i.imgur.com/tHw0b.gif

[Chernoby1]

I dont know much about the BYP situation but really?!?!?!

Get it done here man!

[u mad?]

lmao op didnt listen to anyone

enjoy ur tune mate

[lolmclol]

Not sure if whole thread op has been trolling or just strong dum dum

[PHO]

so i have made up my mind. i will be going to sydney in september. im gonna drive up and drop my car off at BYP racing.

Benny is a top bloke and was happy to explain everything to me.

i will post the results of the dyno once i get them.

will be interesting. cheers for everyones help and yes ill be going with the tsx ecu and the hondata flashpro.

cheers guys... will keep everyone updated..

I heard there were some things going on with byp, have you had a read of the thread For those who have dealt with BYP RACING & DEVELOPMENTS (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?176426-For-those-who-have-dealt-with-BYP-RACING-amp-DEVELOPMENTS) ?

Just a heads up, if you're still fine with BYP after reading that, then go ahead :thumbsup:

[vaikis]

so i have made up my mind. i will be going to sydney in september. im gonna drive up and drop my car off at BYP racing.

Benny is a top bloke and was happy to explain everything to me.

i will post the results of the dyno once i get them.

will be interesting. cheers for everyones help and yes ill be going with the tsx ecu and the hondata flashpro.

cheers guys... will keep everyone updated..

depending on your setup I can give you base tune for FlashPro. Have done ~10 different CL9 cars with FlashPro ;)

[philipminge]

WOW- to be continued...

who are the 2 people in melbourne that do hondas again FREDOOPS.

woah everyone chill.... lol

[philipminge]

wow. ok so reason i said byp is coz im goin on a cruise in sep and leaves from syd.
so not making a trip for nothing.

i read that thread about the experiences with byp... i must say - to all the people that got diked - thats real upsetting.
i remember someone saying a dog sat on their race seat too lol

when my sparcos go in my s2k, if someone put a dog on my seat... omg i would blow my head gasket!!!
im really stunned by the comments, photos, replies, and all that stuff. im not going to say anything as i dont wanna be a part of it.... so whatever.

(not naming any names) but i took my car for service one day about 4 years ago and before i went in i scratched my oil filter with a drill bit. took my car in - got it back with an invoice and first thing i did was lift the bonnet and looked at my filter. it was still there. on the invoice clearly said -NEW GENUINE FILTER $23.

i lost my s*** and said if he doesnt do another oil change now i would drive my car through his workshop at about 100 clicks...

i did not take it any further as he vanished and his workshop is no longer there. was a while ago now. but fk...

im not saying i had a terrible experience and was tiny compared to most but you trust someone enough to do the right thing and they just **** you.

i have done a shit load of reserch today as i am off work for once.

i think i will do all the work myself...

it thought benny was a top bloke. nice on the phone etc... but i have a problem with trusting people. im a soft prick. i have nothing against byp as i have never dealt with them. so i am not going to bs about them or anyone else.

i have never taken my car back to a mechanic since that oil filter thing and even convinced my old man to give me some space in the factory to put a car hoist in. thats where my s2k is now and im building the whole thing myself... no1 will touch the car.... issue is when i get to ECU and computer - im stuck....

reason why i wanted to get this done is A) no time B) i know nothing about wiring and tuning and this and that. i can put manifolds on etc etc etc and throttle bodies and now adjust my valve clearances - all the basic stuff... never had any experience with ecus etc. always played with bolt ons.

SO after my off topic post... i am going to take things slower.

can anyone tell me this - if i bolt on RBC intake manifold and J35 throttle body.... and leave stock computer - will that be bad for the car..... meaning the car may run lean or whatever?? or will the factory computer compensate the change until i put the rest in... or is it better to wait and do it all together?

any input welcome.

thanks everyone for the posts... was just getting excited and wanted to speed everything up.
but cheers anyway... think ill just learn and do everything myself.... lol

get more room in the factory and buy my own dyno. lol

alls good. cheers guys for ya help.

and sorry to all the people out there that get dicked with car mods by some mechanics. not referring to any work shops or whatever just speaking generally.

i do know of one mechanic that is the most particular guy i have ever met. He works for someone else but does his own work on the side 25 years experience in the industry (registered business name not just off the street and qualified!!!) but just feel guilty to get him to do my stuff because he is my uncles best mate n dont want him to feel like he had to do my shit. i have sent many people to him and they all are now regular clients. used him to help me do a clutch and flywheel change in my s2k... it took ages because every bolt he pulled out he would clean with a wire brush and wipe it with prepsol and a rag.... lol every bolt. also made me take the new flywheel and clutch to get balanced properly before we put it in... the toda flywheel was perfect but the clutch pressure plate was out by a bit. always good advice.
i haven't really used him for my euro coz he is always busy and to be honest... i didnt want to waste his time with stupid questions but i think i will now. bad luck

cheers blokes. n thanks again!!!!

[philipminge]

depending on your setup I can give you base tune for FlashPro. Have done ~10 different CL9 cars with FlashPro ;)

sounds promising, i will let you know once i know which way im heading. have you done your own euro?

[philipminge]

also does anyone know where to buy a power steering pump? tsx pump fit on cl9 i assume?

[vaikis]

sounds promising, i will let you know once i know which way im heading. have you done your own euro?

doing new build at the moment as have spare engine ;) Current N/A build was 250 HP at flywheel(local Dyno), new will be ~300HP.

[Andy]

WOW- to be continued...

who are the 2 people in melbourne that do hondas again FREDOOPS.

woah everyone chill.... lol



In relation to tuning. There's actually a few good places in melbourne that do Hondas
MSC and Revzone comes to mind, both fully registered and insured workshops.


I've dealt with Steve from MSC before, his a top bloke. He also has a boosted S2K which means you guys will be best friends. Also in relation to your RBC and stock ECU question, I found that the car was a little jerky in gear 1 and 2. Good luck!

[vaikis]

I've dealt with Steve from MSC before, his a top bloke. He also has a boosted S2K which means you guys will be best friends. Also in relation to your RBC and stock ECU question, I found that the car was a little jerky in gear 1 and 2. Good luck!

if you put RBC or RRC manifold and don't tune ECU you will looser power - tested long time ago. All tuning must begin from poper Engine managment. Even when you put exhaust header air fuel ratio goes to 13.5 without tune. It's a little bit on lean side for K24 engine.

[philipminge]

Hmmmm. OK.

So could I be doing damage every time I thrash the s*** out of my euro. Because soon it will get a new high flow cat... That will prob change things again. Just wish there was an easier way to tune.
Think I'll buy the hondata and tsx ecu
Before anything else...

Coz I'm guessing I can just run that and when I do more mods just retune....

Few things I have to take care of. The car has 166xxx now. Its super clean but stuff doesn't last forever...
Needs clutch (will do slightly lighter flywheel) and power steering pump is squeezing its head off... Lol so gotta do things slow. Just hope the car doesn't run lean... :S

[stndrd]

Modern ecu's are self learning. Over time the ecu will richen up the mixtures a bit, but obviously not as accurately as tuning will

[Fredoops]

So could I be doing damage every time I thrash the s*** out of my euro. Because soon it will get a new high flow cat... That will prob change things again. Just wish there was an easier way to tune.
Think I'll buy the hondata and tsx ecu
Before anything else...
Highly doubt you'll cause any damage


Coz I'm guessing I can just run that and when I do more mods just retune....
Yep


Few things I have to take care of. The car has 166xxx now. Its super clean but stuff doesn't last forever...
Needs clutch (will do slightly lighter flywheel) and power steering pump is squeezing its head off... Lol so gotta do things slow. Just hope the car doesn't run lean... :S
It's not the end of the world.

[DreadAngel]

Hmmmm. OK.

So could I be doing damage every time I thrash the s*** out of my euro. Because soon it will get a new high flow cat... That will prob change things again. Just wish there was an easier way to tune.
Think I'll buy the hondata and tsx ecu
Before anything else...

Coz I'm guessing I can just run that and when I do more mods just retune....

Few things I have to take care of. The car has 166xxx now. Its super clean but stuff doesn't last forever...
Needs clutch (will do slightly lighter flywheel) and power steering pump is squeezing its head off... Lol so gotta do things slow. Just hope the car doesn't run lean... :S


Modern ecu's are self learning. Over time the ecu will richen up the mixtures a bit, but obviously not as accurately as tuning will

This...

As stndrd has mentioned, modern ECUs are self learning/self adjusting within their factory parameters. Unless you altering the A/F equation by large margin [Ie big cams, turbo, injectors, fuel pump, etc], you don't have to worry. The engine majority of the time won't be damaged, it will adjust itself the best it can to protect the engine. Having said that it means it probably not giving the best performance or economy because it can only do so much ;)

[vaikis]

Modern ecu's are self learning. Over time the ecu will richen up the mixtures a bit, but obviously not as accurately as tuning will

not when you do full throttle - ECU goes to open loop (you hit accelerator pedal to floor), "self learning" is done only when ECU is in closed loop. In such way works Honda ECU and most other ECUs.

[stndrd]

How often are you ever at WOT for more than 5 or 6 seconds on the street? Most of the time you are at partial throttle and the ECU will adjust mixtures accordingly

[PHO]

How often are you ever at WOT for more than 5 or 6 seconds on the street? Most of the time you are at partial throttle and the ECU will adjust mixtures accordingly

WOT all day every day.

[stndrd]

WOT all day every day.

WOT in a D yes, not in a K

[lolmclol]

WOT about in a V

[PHO]

WOT in a D yes, not in a K

WOT in K 6th gear all day every day

Take off in 2nd till 40, then 6th gear the mofo WOT till 80-100. yhnah

[philipminge]

Hey guys, another question.
When the 50vtc gear is fitted - and people set it to 45 what is the extra 25degrees doing. Is it opening the intake valves sooner?? Or is it getting rid of the overlap between intake and exhaust valves?
Or am I completely off course and lost?

Second question, once that gear is in, can the car be driven with the stock computer? Or do I have to have the tsx upgrade right away???

Also people say that they unbolt the intake can shaft off a dc5 type r and put them in... Will this make much difference? I was let to believe that he cams in the 06 euros were a decent spec... anyone have any input?

[Fredoops]

Hey guys, another question.
When the 50vtc gear is fitted - and people set it to 45 what is the extra 25degrees doing. Is it opening the intake valves sooner?? Or is it getting rid of the overlap between intake and exhaust valves?
Or am I completely off course and lost?

Second question, once that gear is in, can the car be driven with the stock computer? Or do I have to have the tsx upgrade right away???

Also people say that they unbolt the intake can shaft off a dc5 type r and put them in... Will this make much difference? I was let to believe that he cams in the 06 euros were a decent spec... anyone have any input?

50 - 45 = 5 degrees left over aint it?

[philipminge]

This is where I'm lost. They say its a 50degree can gear... But only run it at 45 degrees. I don't quite understand how this works. Lol. Well I do but I don't... Haha

[Fredoops]

This is where I'm lost. They say its a 50degree can gear... But only run it at 45 degrees. I don't quite understand how this works. Lol. Well I do but I don't... Haha

With the stock cams, if you have a 50 degree vtc and you use all 50 degrees, there's chance metal bits hit into each other and cause internal damage.

[Andy]

Second question, once that gear is in, can the car be driven with the stock computer? Or do I have to have the tsx upgrade right away???


Car can be driven, computer will only recognize 25* until tuned to run at 45*

[philipminge]

Ahhh sick. So even if I'm thrashing with a 50 gear it won't recognize it. So should operate as normal!
Thanks

[vaikis]

VTC angles are written in ECU, OEM CL9 ECU can operate till 25* only. If you install 50 gear it will be moved till 25 only. DC5 type r cams are decent for CL9 Euro, best cams are intake TSX 06+ cam if you don't what to touch valve springs and install "stage 2 cams": http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?162164-Hondata-FlashPro-tested-in-CL9-Euro-it-works-!!!-TSX-07-08-ECU-required.&p=3689413&viewfull=1#post3689413

I have tuned one Accord CL9 Euro 5AT (Auto) with "stage 2" cams he makes 0-100 km/h in 6.2s with cheap tires ! It can easy do in 6s with better ones.
With OEM camshafts on K24a3 engine you can go to full VTC50 there won't be any P2V (piston to valve contact), when you install aftermarket camshafts clearances must be checked because you can damage engine if over advance VTC !!! If you over rev engine (misshift from 5 to 2 for example) P2V can be even with small OEM cams.