first day driving my dc5r !

[RA73DR]

Hey guys,
as you may have seen, i have asked several questions about Dc5s before i purchased one.

I finally purchased it about 2 weeks ago and so far im happy with it.
The initial plan was to wait until 15k is saved up then go ahead and search for a dc5 but i saw one which had alot of potential and with the price i negotiated, i just couldnt say no ! :)

I payed 8300 for it , it is on revs from 2 years ago for hail damage, which still requires attention, the clutch was slipping and rego due early next month.

the plan is to get the hail damage taken out of the whole car except bonnet ( apparently better to change it overall) and then if required in the future will get the car re sprayed same colour with the new non damaged bonnet from wreckers.

i had the clutch and some oils done today, and hopefully next week ill have the guy come to my house to sort the hail damage :)

the car is sitting at 145000km with most of its life log booked but towards the end i relised it had a bit of misplay in the book which i noticed today when i got the book stamped after doing clutch some seals engine oil gearbox oil and coolant flush.

Anyway, obviously today is the first time i got to drive it apart from driving it home after purchasing it because the clutch was completely fried and coming from the charade, i was pretty happy, but to be honest was expecting more from the car.

firstly one question i have is, today i looked at the petrol lid and it said premium unleaded only meaning min 95 RON? i filled up only 30 with bp ultimate for the meantime because i know rego nearly gone wont re register till charade is sold.

would it harm the car if i had to fill up 95 sometimes? because i am a student sometimes not much work around and at times 98 fuel price is absurd !!

another thing is i noticed when i am turning or on a bend at higher speeds like 80km or so, the steering wheel felt a bit light or wobbly i guess? i let go of it and it leans and turns abit to the left so i know it may need a wheel alignment but do you think that is the reason as to why the wheel feels unstable on the bends at higher speeds ? just feels like it was bouncing all over i guess? not sure how to explain it but i know for a fact that the dc5r should handle way better than that.

also, driving it today i had to take it easy for half tank as the mechanic said due to fresh clutch but i gave it here and there just no slamming gears etc.

i noticed that first gear vtec is just horrible or is it just me? it just doesnt move or go anywhere, second was ok but nothing special but third just blew me away ... is it normal to be expecting that for 1st and second ?

ive had my mechanics and performance shop inspect the car thoroughly and all they said was it needs new shocks breaks and machining of the rotors apart from that they said its good.

[Daveho1]

why vtec in 1st? 1st is just to get you moving its a short small gear so of cause theres no power, your driving instructer should have told you that when you where 16

if it says premium, just use premium, the acctual doller difference in a tank of premium and a tank of normal unleaded is what $5-10, several companys premiums are 95 anyway but i personaly use bp ultimate as i get better mileage out of it anyway over shell ,caltex etc

if steering feels loose i would look at tie rod ends and rack ends and inspect for p/s leaks.

[RA73DR]

why vtec in 1st? 1st is just to get you moving its a short small gear so of cause theres no power, your driving instructer should have told you that when you where 16

if it says premium, just use premium, the acctual doller difference in a tank of premium and a tank of normal unleaded is what $5-10, several companys premiums are 95 anyway but i personaly use bp ultimate as i get better mileage out of it anyway over shell ,caltex etc

if steering feels loose i would look at tie rod ends and rack ends and inspect for p/s leaks.

cheers.

[noobcake]

If it's a stock air box you wouldnt be able to feel anything, but with an intake you would feel a tiny surge of power when you hit vtec, the wobbly thing is probably due to wheel alignment issues wheel bearings and multiple causes which i'm not sure of.

[DreadAngel]

I'm guessing a few things need to be readjusted and replaced first then see what happens ;)


why vtec in 1st? 1st is just to get you moving its a short small gear so of cause theres no power, your driving instructer should have told you that when you where 16

No argument there lol All truth!

[Daveho1]

it sounds to me like several things may be a bit out of whack son.
if i where to buy a car now and i was unsure of its history i would;
1st-do a major service, change ALL fluids including fuel (flush the tank) , belts (inspect timing chain stretch), plugs, all filters including in tank pickup and check thermostat function.
2nd-mechanical repairs as needed checking obvious things like brakes clutch etc
3rd-tire balance and check for obvious signs of wear.
4th-wheel alignment.
5th-full clean top to bottom.

[RA73DR]

i had a wheel alignment done today but once again was told my shocks are gone. im not krrn on slammig.my car but i do want to drop it like an inch or so . i hear coilovers arw a better option than a spring and shock combo. i got quoted 1550 for bc coilovers supplied and fitted is that too much
are they any good ? also i got rold there are buddy club n plus or something like that for 1450 unfitted. i saw skunk pro coilovers for 1k on ebay . not sure what to go with its pure street want good handling for the street for when i want to throw it around a bit. what do you recomend l i dont want to pay too much really.

[Daveho1]

i like buddy club myself, i have a mate on BC and they seem good too but cant comment on skunk2 as ive never driven on them but they are a respected brand.
the BC would suit your purpose fine, that being said so would a spring/shock combo or even some pedders coilovers but a good middle ground quality wise is BC or buddyclub

[RA73DR]

i also have the option of having springs made for my car at the height i want which is 1-1.5 inch all round along eith konei shocks which are supposedly really good itll be like 200 cheaper but i dont really need coilovers if i wont be adjusting the height etc right ? i just eant one goof setting for mad street handling and i think the konei shocks n springs will suffice but coilovers are seen as bettee value for resale not sure what to do

[DreadAngel]

i had a wheel alignment done today but once again was told my shocks are gone. im not krrn on slammig.my car but i do want to drop it like an inch or so . i hear coilovers arw a better option than a spring and shock combo. i got quoted 1550 for bc coilovers supplied and fitted is that too much
are they any good ? also i got rold there are buddy club n plus or something like that for 1450 unfitted. i saw skunk pro coilovers for 1k on ebay . not sure what to go with its pure street want good handling for the street for when i want to throw it around a bit. what do you recomend l i dont want to pay too much really.

Be VERY careful what you put under your DC5R...

Unlike the older Hondas, it uses Macpherson at the front, this means its more unforgiving and harsh so coilovers will just make that worse...

If you're after more comfort than performance, better check around first... The Tein Street Basic? Or Advance [I've not kept up with Tein's latest product lineup] might be a better choice...


i also have the option of having springs made for my car at the height i want which is 1-1.5 inch all round along eith konei shocks which are supposedly really good itll be like 200 cheaper but i dont really need coilovers if i wont be adjusting the height etc right ? i just eant one goof setting for mad street handling and i think the konei shocks n springs will suffice but coilovers are seen as bettee value for resale not sure what to do

Shocks + Springs better option especially if you're going to keep the car for a few years... They might possibly be better for your application too ;) Coilovers after a few years, value drops to nothing...

[charliebrown]

Koni yellow sport and eibach prokit springs comfy for street and slightly lower, handles better than cheap coilovers

[Daveho1]

ahh of cause i forgot about that. yeah id prolly still go coilovers but it may be worth really reserching

[fh93]

I run BC racing BR series coil overs in my dc5r, absolutely love them. They have 32 way damper adjustable which makes them heaps comfortable :)

[DreadAngel]

I run BC racing BR series coil overs in my dc5r, absolutely love them. They have 32 way damper adjustable which makes them heaps comfortable :)

Ummm... 32 Damper Adjustment [They're not really 32 cause there isn't a distinguishable difference between 1-2 for example] doesn't make them comfortable, the damper piston and damper valving matched adjust spring rate.

[fh93]

Ummm... 32 Damper Adjustment [They're not really 32 cause there isn't a distinguishable difference between 1-2 for example] doesn't make them comfortable, the damper piston and damper valving matched adjust spring rate.

Yeh true point, like 5 clicks makes a difference, having said that they are bang for buck if that's what you are after

[androo]

If you can get BC coilovers fitted for $5xx then I would go with that. Is it second hand? If so check the condition etc because $5xx fitted is heaps cheap. If it's a store PM me their details lol

[RA73DR]

mate where did i say 500 i said 1500

[androo]

mate where did i say 500 i said 1500
Calm down buddy - misread while on my phone. Well if that's the case I wouldn't even consider them. I would go Buddy Clubs for that price! Sorry if the person who quoted you is on here, but you can get the BC BR's for $1199 shipped on Ebay (in Australia)!

Linky:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BC-Racing-BR-Coilovers-Coilover-to-suit-HONDA-INTEGRA-DC5-00-04-/151088845060?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232d98d104

Or the V1's are 1k shipped:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BC-Racing-V1-Series-Coilovers-Kit-Coilover-Suspension-ACURA-RSX-INTEGRA-DC5-/321061440925?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac0c0cd9d

PM bennjamin and ask him to fit them for you. He's got a great reputation and he's very reasonably priced.

[DreadAngel]

If you can get BC coilovers fitted for $5xx then I would go with that. Is it second hand? If so check the condition etc because $5xx fitted is heaps cheap. If it's a store PM me their details lol


mate where did i say 500 i said 1500

Lol hahaha

[Daveho1]

or spend the 45min and DIY

[RenzokukenJ]

If you can get BC coilovers fitted for $5xx then I would go with that. Is it second hand? If so check the condition etc because $5xx fitted is heaps cheap. If it's a store PM me their details lol


mate where did i say 500 i said 1500

Lmzo androo pls

[EKVTIR-T]

mate where did i say 500 i said 15001500 for borchuann

http://i.imgur.com/UmpOi.gif

[mocchi]

32 clicks is better than 5 clicks

[ctx]

i had a wheel alignment done today but once again was told my shocks are gone. im not krrn on slammig.my car but i do want to drop it like an inch or so . i hear coilovers arw a better option than a spring and shock combo. i got quoted 1550 for bc coilovers supplied and fitted is that too much
are they any good ? also i got rold there are buddy club n plus or something like that for 1450 unfitted. i saw skunk pro coilovers for 1k on ebay . not sure what to go with its pure street want good handling for the street for when i want to throw it around a bit. what do you recomend l i dont want to pay too much really.

Dreadangel is suspension expert, he is the answer to all your questions

[RA73DR]

Dreadangel is suspension expert, he is the answer to all your questions


in that case, Dreadangel, as mentioned i am leaning towards spring and shock combo. for the shock i plan on getting koni. now for the springs i have 3 options.
1- the spring shop makes the springs for me since they are a manufacturer. cost is 350 all round
2- i use eibach pro kit or the other eibach sport line roighly 450 dollars.
3- just came across the ground control coilover with eibach springs approx 480.

whay would you recomend out of the three alongside the koni shocks

[Daveho1]

eibach are good springs and ground control are well respected in the states (but so are roof racks so i donno it that means anything).
i would avoid having the springs "made" cause that sounds shifty as shit.

value for money id go with the BC coilovers they are cheap but i havent been able to fault em yet..

if you dont belive me
<---------- check my green blocks, "i have an exceptional understanding"

[RA73DR]

only thing is all together itll cost approx 1300 unfitted for the sping n shock combo

[RA73DR]

eibach are good springs and ground control are well respected in the states (but so are roof racks so i donno it that means anything).
i would avoid having the springs "made" cause that sounds shifty as shit.

value for money id go with the BC coilovers they are cheap but i havent been able to fault em yet..

seems like the best solution period. what do you think dread angel ? if i was to go coilovers do you think it would be worth it to wait extra and pay 1800 for tein super street coilovers ?

[Daveho1]

the aus market tein super streets have a bit of a bad rep. some people have reported failures early on and it seems although it was only happening with the ones for the aussie market and those seemed softer all round then the jap equivalent.
dont get me wrong tein coils are good and have a lot going for them, it was just the ones associated with fulcrum that seemed problematic
BC or buddyclub in that price range n8

[RA73DR]

if you dont mind me asking, what suspension are you running yourself

[Daveho1]

im running buddyclub n+ coilovers

[RA73DR]

any benefit of them over bc ? for the price difference ?

[Daveho1]

well i paid 600 so i wouldnt know but buddyclub is jdm so extra internet points..
honestly i havent tried buddy clubs and BC on a dc5r but as an over all quality they both seem comparable. i know people run both and the rides in there cars are similar ( as far as you can compare the ride of s14, s15 preludes and mr2s)
in saying that i feel like the Buddyclubs are just a bit firmer which i like but i can understand many wouldnt

anyway off to work with dem peugeots...FML

[RA73DR]

hmmm madd 600 where did you manage to find them ? obv used right but wouldnt mind buying used myself. lol working with peugots you must be spewing.

[Daveho1]

yeah my buddy had en on his teg but hardly used really..
belive me after peugeot honda is easy cause they use logic instead of stupid

[charliebrown]

in that case, Dreadangel, as mentioned i am leaning towards spring and shock combo. for the shock i plan on getting koni. now for the springs i have 3 options.
1- the spring shop makes the springs for me since they are a manufacturer. cost is 350 all round
2- i use eibach pro kit or the other eibach sport line roighly 450 dollars.
3- just came across the ground control coilover with eibach springs approx 480.

whay would you recomend out of the three alongside the koni shocks


Koni yellow sport and eibach prokit springs comfy for street and slightly lower, handles better than cheap coilovers

need i say again

[RA73DR]

need i say again

by cheap coilovers are you refering to bc and buddyclub n+ as well ?

[aspirin_ash7]

+1 eibach pro kit + koni yellow shocks.

Had the pro kit on my dc5 base and currently in the process of getting some Koni Yellows + Eibach Prokit fitted on dc5s
They handle great and here is a useful thread from a few months ago where DreadAngel helped me alot too.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?173063-DC5-Base-Model-Springs

Goodluck :)

[RA73DR]

ebay has yellow konis for 880 together same as quote from spring shop but does any one know anyone or a place that sells eibach pro kit springs ? because ebay is too high because od that postage price from america

[Vvvtec]

heard so many bad things about the pro kit, do your research first :)

[Daveho1]

i still recon coilovers.. if nothing elce the adjustability is worth it

[RA73DR]

heard so many bad things about the pro kit, do your research first :)


really ? i been up reading for hours and havnt came over anything. mind telling me what you have heard ?

[RA73DR]

i still recon coilovers.. if nothing elce the adjustability is worth it


adjustability is nice even though i only want lkke a 1inch drop. main concern is performance without having to pay too much for coilovers. meaning, would bc perform well on what you throw at it on the street

[Daveho1]

yes for your purposes at street speeds the BC coilovers will perform well, they have been around for ages now and there are plenty of reviews on em.
although a shock spring combo is fine aswell the price tags arnt that different and you can rebuild, re valve or change springs later if need be.
so basicly;

shocks/spring pros;
pritty good on the street
cheaper in the us

bc coilover pros;
pritty good on the street
competitive price
rebuildable
options of spring rates
very adjustable (not just height son)

[curtis265]

would suggest staying away from BC

they won't outlast the konis and can be just as stiff if u want (i think)

If you insiste on height adjustability get the ground control sleeves.

instant height adjustable coilovers


yes for your purposes at street speeds the BC coilovers will perform well, they have been around for ages now and there are plenty of reviews on em.
although a shock spring combo is fine aswell the price tags arnt that different and you can rebuild, re valve or change springs later if need be.
so basicly;

shocks/spring pros;
pritty good on the street better on street as they have better bump control
cheaper in the us
rebuildable
option son spring rates
can be cheaper than a set of BCs, even with GC's
will easily outlast the BC

bc coilover pros;
pritty good on the street
competitive price
rebuildable
options of spring rates
very adjustable (not just height son)




a lack of information here.

[Daveho1]

known people with both and have tried both. still recon the coils are the goods

[ctx]

yes for your purposes at street speeds the BC coilovers will perform well, they have been around for ages now and there are plenty of reviews on em.
although a shock spring combo is fine aswell the price tags arnt that different and you can rebuild, re valve or change springs later if need be.
so basicly;

shocks/spring pros;
pritty good on the street
cheaper in the us

bc coilover pros;
pritty good on the street
competitive price
rebuildable
options of spring rates
very adjustable (not just height son)

You're comparing every single spring/shock combo out there to BC Racing Coilovers.

[RA73DR]

i dont really want to drop the car alot. im not gojng for slammed heaps of my past cars were slammed and just got iver it. i havr the stock 16inch wheels but the plan is 17inch light wheels. if i get eibach which wwill cause a one jnch drop, then later upgrade to 17inch wheels should i expect the guard to be a bit above the tire still or ?

[fh93]

How did you "slam" your past cars? Cut springs, coils, airbags?

[Daveho1]

no we are talking about koni with eibach springs...

[curtis265]

known people with both and have tried both. still recon the coils are the goods

because harder = more sportier which automatically means better feedback and faster cornering right??

[Daveho1]

yep that exactly what im saying...
no, based on what i have seen from these setups the bc offered a better feel imo as i said..

[curtis265]

yep that exactly what im saying...
no, based on what i have seen from these setups the bc offered a better feel imo as i said..


yes for your purposes at street speeds the BC coilovers will perform well, they have been around for ages now and there are plenty of reviews on em.
although a shock spring combo is fine aswell the price tags arnt that different and you can rebuild, re valve or change springs later if need be.
so basicly;

shocks/spring pros;
pritty good on the street
cheaper in the us

bc coilover pros;
pritty good on the street
competitive price
rebuildable
options of spring rates
very adjustable (not just height son)

1. you're contradicting yourself. one minnit saying you were talking about feels where i can quote you talking about performance

2. you said I put words in your mouth/keyboard, when you've ether: missed out details in a deliberate attempt to mislead, or are an empty bucket attempting to make the most noise... you sound like a salesman!

[RA73DR]

i didnt slam my card pretty.much all had cut springs.
and well, that escalated quikly.....

[DreadAngel]

Hi RA73DR,

Everything below is in context to Macpherson equipped cars like your DC5R, its slightly different to cars equipped with different suspension layout, usually they can run stiffer suspension without as harsh of a trade off in comparison.

From what I've found with previous cars and DC5R/EP3R project cars I've worked on. They were extremely sensitive to suspension alterations. A lot of people that recommend the cheaper coilovers are correct, they are quite good for that price HOWEVER they're usually used on the older Honda chassis [EG/EK/DC2/etc] which use double wishbone. They're more forgiving and compliant with suspension alterations ie, you can run stiffer suspension and the comfort + compliance/sensitivity isn't affected as much as they are with Macpherson. It is much harder to improve suspension performance in the newer Honda's compared to the older ones without going towards a racing setup which isn't ideal for daily.

So for you, you're after daily and spirited driving with only slightly lowering [1"?]. For the street, you want the your suspension to maintain contact with the road at all times [Meaning it absorb imperfections rather than bounce off them], be comfortable for a relaxing drive but firm can communicative when you want to push. This does not generally favourite the cheaper coilovers [There are exceptions but not many] as they're generally overly sprung and undervalved thus giving harsh ride and are very sensitive to imperfections.

Durability wise, considering the cheaper coilovers, some people get good life out of them, others kill them within 2 years. This is dependent on road condition, quality of the unit and user preference [Height + Damper Settings]. Shocks on the otherhand tend to be more robust. Koni Yellow can be rebuild and they can be revalved too! They're generally cheaper to rebuild too ;)

Thus I recommend shocks + springs along with swaybars + PU suspension bushing to improve your car's performance. Coilovers in general for DC5R/EP3R [Unless you're willing to spend big dollars like Bilstein B12/PSS9/PSS10 which are beautiful coilovers] tend to be quite stiff and doesn't inspire confidence or control when you go have fun on those mountain roads. Shock n Springs generally provide better dampening for your price bracket and when you add the Swaybars + PU Bushing, it will eliminate the body roll while making the car tighter without too much compromise.

Check out my other post in the Suspension sub-forum if you want to see more Suspension tech ;)

NB: If possible, go try out other people rides if you can so you can see for yourself :)


in that case, Dreadangel, as mentioned i am leaning towards spring and shock combo. for the shock i plan on getting koni. now for the springs i have 3 options.
1- the spring shop makes the springs for me since they are a manufacturer. cost is 350 all round
2- i use eibach pro kit or the other eibach sport line roighly 450 dollars.
3- just came across the ground control coilover with eibach springs approx 480.

whay would you recomend out of the three alongside the koni shocks

#1 - I'd be careful with custom springs, you will need to check how they make your springs as some places use inferior material and techniques which can see springs crack under abuse.

#2 - Eibach in generally have a good reputation, I think Pro Kit better for you because the Sportline are stiffer and lower...

#3 - Koni Yellow + Eibach Springs + Ground Control Sleeves basically gives you a Koni Yellow/Eibach Spring Coilovers. You probably don't need to use this unless you want to go lower ;)

[Daveho1]

good ass info here^^^ OP allow me to clarify a few of my opinions;

i didnt mention adjustablilty on shocks as for one koni yellows arnt adjustable in the way coilovers are

when i refer to performance im talking about street performance not track use i.e how stable they are on corners at street speed/how they absorb small pot holes, as that what u said thats what the car would be used for instead of track times as i haven't tracked these setups

i recomended BC specifically over the buddyclubs as they tend to have a softer ride which should help with the McPherson type suspension you have, i have been in and driven several cars with mcpherson type suspension configurations and the BC seem to be more forgiving then most.

as ive said several times this is just my opinion obviously i couldnt care what you choose especially since its fukn wif my rep, now i gotta spam heeeeeps of fools to get dat rep back

[RA73DR]

thanx guys much alpreciated.

last i did a 50km trip home from work and then stopped on the side of the road to make a phone call and as the car was idling i heard a ticking noise thought it was from interior so i started hitting everything no luck,
i relised when i break it was theee but when i release the break it would go away and somrtimes same with clutch, this was only at idle, any ideas ?

also i had my car serviced for first time 3 days ago with penrite full synthetic oil. itd so hard for me to read the oil on the dipstick because its my first time dealing with this type of thin oil. anywho first day i got it back i checked it several times till i relised it was covering the dimple on the full line so it was fine. i have done approx 500km since then lot of vtec mainly just the occassional 2nd and third pull but regularly . i checked oil now and i dont know if my eyes are decieving me or the oil is half way on the dip stick. this surely cant be normal, i know they are notorious for burnong oil but come on this is ridiculous . any ideas ?

[Daveho1]

well there are several possibilities the ticking may just be injectors, the valve train or it could be an interior rattle as you said. as for the oil you can only get an accurate reading after the car has been sitting a while give the car a little while to sit and then recheck. if it has burnt that oil then move up to a slightly thicker oil. what viscosity was used at service? lemme guess 5w-30

[RA73DR]

nah mate 5w40. if it did need bumping up do you think i should go 10w40 or 15w40 . also im at work so car will be parked till 7 will check it at like 4pm or so and report back. thanx mate and everyone else for all the help

[Daveho1]

hmmm close well IF it is burning oil then it would be worth moving to something a tad thicker, i usually use the thinnest oil the engine alows on my b18c2 thats a 15w-40 cause old but deff confirm that it is burning oil.

[RA73DR]

are you saying for.me to confirm if its burning oil or are you confirming your crx burns lol

[Daveho1]

well my civic burns but im saying you should confirm too before to much stress

[RA73DR]

hate that feeling of buying a used car then feeling like your waiting for things to unravel lol.
will update how it gos later on during the day

[Daveho1]

did u do a compression test prior to buying the car? although this only give a limited view of the engine overall health it is worth doing.

[RA73DR]

nah man i didnt. i want to get it done though wheee can i do it ?
its just rhat ticking noise drives me nuts really want to know what it is searxhed the net and a few people said may be timing belt tensioner . what do you guys recomend for break pads ? the ppl eho did my clutch recomended ebc red stuff didnt hear about it till they told me. also planning on just changing the fronts as i dont see a need for the back period ? its not like im doind hand brakies or something lol

[curtis265]

Any mechanic could do the compression/leakdown check.

[RA73DR]

i jus checked the enginr oil several times. the main oil is like half way and then you have like a trail of oil on the edge leading to the full.

surely the oil must be covering the dipstick to the full not only half eay with the edges having a trail ?

[RA73DR]

its only been driven approx 550km since service of oil filter and 5w40 full synthetic oil

[Daveho1]

are u 100% its was at full after the service??

[RA73DR]

are u 100% its was at full after the service??

yes i checked it several times and saw it was covering that hole at the full line

[Daveho1]

and the engine was cool when u where checking?

[DreadAngel]

good ass info here^^^ OP allow me to clarify a few of my opinions;

i didnt mention adjustablilty on shocks as for one koni yellows arnt adjustable in the way coilovers are

Yup, Koni Yellow only 4 step adjustment unlike BC's 30 step adjustment however the 30 steps in most of the cheaper coilovers don't have a profound effect [ie There isn't much different between step 1-3] and can be grouped by 4-5 steps so effectively it can be treated as 6-7 step with perhaps some .5's in there.


nah mate 5w40. if it did need bumping up do you think i should go 10w40 or 15w40 . also im at work so car will be parked till 7 will check it at like 4pm or so and report back. thanx mate and everyone else for all the help

RA73DR, drive the car from cold for a little around the block to warm up the oil for a bit. Check the dipstick by measuring from where the majority of the oil is resting not from the little dribble. Fill it up to the full line then keep checking it every 2-3 drives and keep us informed. This way we will know for sure how much its burning and see if its within tolerance.

[Daveho1]

id be interested to see leak down and comp test results if it is burning oil

[DreadAngel]

id be interested to see leak down and comp test results if it is burning oil

Sounds fudged huh? lolz

[Vvvtec]

http://flowchainsensei.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/lemon.jpg (http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=lemon&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&docid=XMpt9DjfzNnEOM&tbnid=4tCFprDOl85BdM:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fflowchainsensei.wordpress.com%2F2 012%2F03%2F31%2Fhow-to-spot-a-lemon-consultant%2F&ei=0vv0UejoEMHQkgXr2oCgAQ&bvm=bv.49784469,d.dGI&psig=AFQjCNGJA0aRn2TGyNDVozVYXpyYF125Pw&ust=1375096142244559)

[Daveho1]

maby but also maby something as simple as a 10w40 would sort it

[charliebrown]

shouldnt have cheaped out brah. that headache

[Daveho1]

i bet cha its not that bad...

[kingjumbo]

Its all good mate your probably worrying too much. You got the car dirt cheap so just drive and enjoy and as time passes and you put in some TLC you'll learn every nick and cranny of the car. The thing looks pretty schmick in the pics. All the best;)

[Daveho1]

yeah exactly, besides when did we consider hondas to be lemons when they burn oil....but 100ml per 100km is a bit excessisve

[RA73DR]

shouldnt have cheaped out brah. that headache

i didnt cheap out. its what i got recomended by a few places obv id like to run the thinnest oil possible rhat doesnt burn.

anyway guys, last night after a 50km drive home i let the car settle for couple min then checked the stick in the light to see rhe shimmering of the oil and it was just under the full marl which is good. today ill check it again while cold then warm it up and wait couple min and check again fingers crossed.

[RA73DR]

Sounds fudged huh? lolz

hey, i am going to call eibach today the one in warrie wood sydney because i cant seem to find any other shops selling it. i want to buy their pro kit springs and anti roll kit they seem to have it together in a bundle called pro kit plus.

do you think the anti roll kit which includes sway bars and sway bar bushes is a waste of money ?

also i been reading up on the bushings that are interelated with the shocks not exactly sure how yet lol still learnong, but do you think i need to get them replaced when i change my springs and and shocks ?

[DreadAngel]

hey, i am going to call eibach today the one in warrie wood sydney because i cant seem to find any other shops selling it. i want to buy their pro kit springs and anti roll kit they seem to have it together in a bundle called pro kit plus.

do you think the anti roll kit which includes sway bars and sway bar bushes is a waste of money ?

also i been reading up on the bushings that are interelated with the shocks not exactly sure how yet lol still learnong, but do you think i need to get them replaced when i change my springs and and shocks ?

Hi hi =)

Eibach Pro-Kit Plus is as you said, a kit that combines both the Pro-Kit Springs + Anti-Roll Kit Swaybars. If it's possible, find out the diameter of the swaybar and whether they're hollow or solid. You can then compare this to what is available and what is recommended by the DC5R/S community ;)

Regarding the bushes, are you referring to suspension bushes like Rear Trailing Arm, LCA, etc? If so I believe they're worth their weight it gold as they really do enhance your connection with the car. You just have to decide how 'hard' you want to go because the harder the material, the less 'comfy' they are and the more sensitive your car will become.

[RA73DR]

Hi hi =)

Eibach Pro-Kit Plus is as you said, a kit that combines both the Pro-Kit Springs + Anti-Roll Kit Swaybars. If it's possible, find out the diameter of the swaybar and whether they're hollow or solid. You can then compare this to what is available and what is recommended by the DC5R/S community ;)

Regarding the bushes, are you referring to suspension bushes like Rear Trailing Arm, LCA, etc? If so I believe they're worth their weight it gold as they really do enhance your connection with the car. You just have to decide how 'hard' you want to go because the harder the material, the less 'comfy' they are and the more sensitive your car will become.

yes, your right it does. i contacted them and they said there isnt any in stock and that itll take 6 weeks to arrive. they did not give me a price but i told them to contact me at 1.30 so i will make sure to ask about the sway bar. im actually going on your recomendation of the spring and ahock combo thats why i thought id ask you about the bushes. i dont want to rwplace them unless thwy are work really. should i expect them to be worn ?

what about the sway bars what do you recomend hollow or solid ? ill start researching it now so i can tell.them to put an order through or not when they call.


also koni shocks , i am.hoping to purchase them in a week or two, not sure where to get tjem from sydney for 900 (online 880 but rather buy then get it delivered).

since they have life warranty, if something happens to them do i usually contact koni directly or the shop i bought them of ?

[type_AHH]

yes, your right it does. i contacted them and they said there isnt any in stock and that itll take 6 weeks to arrive. they did not give me a price but i told them to contact me at 1.30 so i will make sure to ask about the sway bar. im actually going on your recomendation of the spring and ahock combo thats why i thought id ask you about the bushes. i dont want to rwplace them unless thwy are work really. should i expect them to be worn ?

what about the sway bars what do you recomend hollow or solid ? ill start researching it now so i can tell.them to put an order through or not when they call.


also koni shocks , i am.hoping to purchase them in a week or two, not sure where to get tjem from sydney for 900 (online 880 but rather buy then get it delivered).

since they have life warranty, if something happens to them do i usually contact koni directly or the shop i bought them of ?

I believe solid is always better.

Personally I have an adjustable Whiteline rear sway bar 24mm that I'm very happy with ^_^

[RenzokukenJ]

i didnt cheap out. its what i got recomended by a few places obv id like to run the thinnest oil possible rhat doesnt burn.

anyway guys, last night after a 50km drive home i let the car settle for couple min then checked the stick in the light to see rhe shimmering of the oil and it was just under the full marl which is good. today ill check it again while cold then warm it up and wait couple min and check again fingers crossed.

He mean you cheap out with cheap car can make headache alot.

I suggestion tiger balm for head if headache continue.

Or buy hyundai, never fail, good korean brand.

[RA73DR]

I believe solid is always better.

Personally I have an adjustable Whiteline rear sway bar 24mm that I'm very happy with ^_^

2 questions:
1: when you put the sway bar on, what difference did you notice on overall and handling performance, and
2: arent you going to put a front sway bar as well ?

[Daveho1]

i also am running a 22mm rear swaybar on my EG and have to say its one of the best handling mods imho

also i have no intention of adding a thicker front bar as i like that when pushed the car will over steer as i find it more manageable

[curtis265]

2 questions:
1: when you put the sway bar on, what difference did you notice on overall and handling performance, and
2: arent you going to put a front sway bar as well ?

1:makes the car handle a lot flatter, it's night and day if you put one on with soft springs

2: sway bars reduce the grip at that end of the car, so if you put a rear and not a front the rear end will lose grip first. Putting a rear and not a front is a good way of reducing turn-in understeer

[RA73DR]

what would happen if i was to put a front and back one ? the eibach kit front one is like 23mm and the back is 25

[RenzokukenJ]

what would happen if i was to put a front and back one ? the eibach kit front one is like 23mm and the back is 25

It will be more of a neutral feel, especially if you have nice springs/coilovers

[Daveho1]

dose the dc5 have the same rear subframe weakness as dc/eg

[RA73DR]

dose the dc5 have the same rear subframe weakness as dc/eg

not sure man

[RA73DR]

It will be more of a neutral feel, especially if you have nice springs/coilovers


im getting koni yellows and springs made for it in like 2 weeks or so.

this neutral feeling, would it be like the way its driving now with a bit of understeer but will require higher speeds to understeer?

hmm not sure to go with the eibach front and back sway bar or just a whiteline back sway bar .

always thought two is best till now wow..

[RA73DR]

not sure if i have to get bushings changed along with the shocks and springs guys

[type_AHH]

2 questions:
1: when you put the sway bar on, what difference did you notice on overall and handling performance, and
2: arent you going to put a front sway bar as well ?

1. It feels quite good, it definitely reduces understeer during spirited driving though I'll never feel its full effect because I have no intention of ever tracking my car =P

2. I think that putting a thicker/solid front sway bar would pretty much cancel the effects of the rear sway thus make making the rear sway redundant, so no front sway (only front sway I'm using is EP3R to clear Toda header)

[RA73DR]

do you know how big your front and rear sway are ?

[type_AHH]

do you know how big your front and rear sway are ?

The Whiteline rear sway bar (solid) is 24mm

EP3R front sway bar (hollow) is 25.4mm

=]

[DreadAngel]

im actually going on your recomendation of the spring and ahock combo thats why i thought id ask you about the bushes. i dont want to rwplace them unless thwy are work really. should i expect them to be worn ?

what about the sway bars what do you recomend hollow or solid ? ill start researching it now so i can tell.them to put an order through or not when they call.

also koni shocks , i am.hoping to purchase them in a week or two, not sure where to get tjem from sydney for 900 (online 880 but rather buy then get it delivered).

since they have life warranty, if something happens to them do i usually contact koni directly or the shop i bought them of ?

Re: Bushes - Bushes are optional however as your car is getting on near 10 yrs, most likely the suspension bushes have never been changed and by now will be squashed/worn so it will revitalise your car's handling and behaviour. If you're unsure, go underneath the car and check the condition of various suspension bushes for fraying/cracks/etc.

Re: Swaybars - Hollow or Solid it doesn't matter too much for you however hollow are lighter but less effective ie to match the rigidity of the solid, you have to go larger in diameter of a hollow. It's just something to know about ;)

Re: Koni - You have to be careful, usually with most companies there is Geo-Blocking ie Within country of purchase so if you bought from say Koni USA then your warranty might be valid only to them. This might not be the case with Koni but best to check ;)


2 questions:
1: when you put the sway bar on, what difference did you notice on overall and handling performance, and
2: arent you going to put a front sway bar as well ?

#01 - Like the others have mentioned, in general, you'll notice the body roll is minimised or eliminated. Get your combination wrong though and your car can become oversteer/understeer prone.

#02 - Only a RSB or both FSB and RSB is highly dependent on your car's factory setup and your driver preference. In general, FWD cars tend to be understeer bias from factory. Adding just a RSB, if the sizing is done correctly against the factory FSB, the car can be neutral or bias towards oversteer. IF you go too big with RSB and makes your FWD car a little too tail nervous, you can counter with a thicker front sway =)

[RA73DR]

The Whiteline rear sway bar (solid) is 24mm

EP3R front sway bar (hollow) is 25.4mm

=]

since you put them on have you noticed it ubdersteering of oversteering more or less since it was stock

[EKVTIR-T]

I found after front swaybar upgrade I need better tyres as it begin to plough understeer and lose traction on turn

for fwd I think keep the front oem and only upgrade rear

this is for doubru wishbone btw

[DreadAngel]

since you put them on have you noticed it ubdersteering of oversteering more or less since it was stock

Answer is...


1. It feels quite good, it definitely reduces understeer during spirited driving though I'll never feel its full effect because I have no intention of ever tracking my car =P



I found after front swaybar upgrade I need better tyres as it begin to plough understeer and lose traction on turn

for fwd I think keep the front oem and only upgrade rear

this is for doubru wishbone btw

^

This, very important, match your suspension against your tyres + application ;)

[RA73DR]

Answer is...






^

This, very important, match your suspension against your tyres + application ;)

i was just asking for his personal impression of upgrading front and rear sway bar.
would you recomend me to just go whiteline rear sway bar or also add ep3 front (plan is headers in future).

also for tires, hen buying tires is there a certain tire you ask for, or you just ask for grippy road tires or? (again, coming from the charade i just use to get cheap tires for it as long as they were good tread i wasnt worried lol).

thanks guys

[HauLe_]

If you are planning on buying headers from japan or a japanese brand like toda, you will need at least the ep3r front sway bar to fit. The audm front sway bar is too small for the headers to clear it. I'm not sure if you need the front sway for plm headers.

[DreadAngel]

i was just asking for his personal impression of upgrading front and rear sway bar.
would you recomend me to just go whiteline rear sway bar or also add ep3 front (plan is headers in future).

also for tires, hen buying tires is there a certain tire you ask for, or you just ask for grippy road tires or? (again, coming from the charade i just use to get cheap tires for it as long as they were good tread i wasnt worried lol).

thanks guys

All good man, was just pointing out he mentioned his experience ;)

Go for which ever RSB you feel comfy with, if it feels excessively nervous then you balance with FSB

See where your budget and applications are ;)

DC5R came with I think Bridgestone RE040? So best to at least get tyres of that grade otherwise you'll find the Type-R won't live up to your expectations. Minimum I recommend are Tyres similar to Bridgestone Potenza RE002 level of performance. If you can get something like Yoko Advan AD08/AD08R, BS Potenza RE11, Dunlop Direzza Starspec Z2 then you're on the money =)

[RA73DR]

I have also been recomended hankooks not sure the actual spec but.

I also need to change my breaks and machine my rotors.
I got recomended a brand called ebc red stuff ?

Do you think they are good or overboard or too little ?

Also i may be incorrect with my train of thought but i was planning on only changine the front since when im braking im only using the front lol or do you reckon i should go all round

[DreadAngel]

I have also been recomended hankooks not sure the actual spec but.

I also need to change my breaks and machine my rotors.
I got recomended a brand called ebc red stuff ?

Do you think they are good or overboard or too little ?

Also i may be incorrect with my train of thought but i was planning on only changine the front since when im braking im only using the front lol or do you reckon i should go all round

Hankooks usually the RS3 [Equivalent to AD08/RE11/Z2] that shines in their lineup =) If working on a budget then the RS3s are a good one, also Kumho KU36s are ok too BUT the KU36 wet weather performance is dismal...

So the brakes did have issues before hand?

EBC Red Stuff are okay, I personally don't like them [I prefer Endless/Dixcel] but others have found EBC's range to be good. QFM and Project Mu are another brand to check out too.

You're train of thought is "OK" if:
Rear is still in really good condition
&
The parts you use for the front aren't too aggressive otherwise your braking bias and balance will be out of whack

[type_AHH]

since you put them on have you noticed it understeering of oversteering more or less since it was stock

The rear bar definitely makes the most difference.
Overall driving on the street, even on the stiffer setting (Whiteline is 2 point adjustable) the car behaves as normal as you can expect. During more spirited driving, understeer is reduced and if pushed hard enough (on the very few occasions I have), the car can oversteer but it's quite manageable.

With the front, to be honest I don't feel a noticeable difference at all.

Most other DC5R owners I know/talk to tend to just use EP3R front sway also, mainly to clear after market header.
I feel that it's adequate for a majority of people.

[HauLe_]

The rear bar definitely makes the most difference.
Overall driving on the street, even on the stiffer setting (Whiteline is 2 point adjustable) the car behaves as normal as you can expect. During more spirited driving, understeer is reduced and if pushed hard enough (on the very few occasions I have), the car can oversteer but it's quite manageable.

With the front, to be honest I don't feel a noticeable difference at all.

Most other DC5R owners I know/talk to tend to just use EP3R front sway also, mainly to clear after market header.
I feel that it's adequate for a majority of people.

Yep most dc5s go for the ep3 front sway bar to clear the jdm branded headers. Ive also got the ep3 front sway. Plan on going for a 24mm rearsway bar. I am.planning on getting the progress rear sway bar but its hard to source for in australia and is quite expensive compared to whiteline. The good thing with whiteline is thats got a adjustable setting so you can change it if you feel its too tail happy.

[type_AHH]

Yep most dc5s go for the ep3 front sway bar to clear the jdm branded headers. Ive also got the ep3 front sway. Plan on going for a 24mm rearsway bar. I am.planning on getting the progress rear sway bar but its hard to source for in australia and is quite expensive compared to whiteline. The good thing with whiteline is thats got a adjustable setting so you can change it if you feel its too tail happy.

How come you're going Progress if it's expensive, hard to find and non adjustable?

[Daveho1]

i feel like you answered his question

[HauLe_]

How come you're going Progress if it's expensive, hard to find and non adjustable?

I like the quality of it as its well made. I dont like the whiteline adjustable ones. Not a fan. Just for my own reasons

[Daveho1]

its a metal bar...




i dont think ive ever heard of one failing without an impact... in any sway bar for that matter, i know whiteline had an issue with the subframe brace for the eg/dc but nevet heard of a failure of a sway bar

[DreadAngel]

its a metal bar...




i dont think ive ever heard of one failing without an impact... in any sway bar for that matter, i know whiteline had an issue with the subframe brace for the eg/dc but nevet heard of a failure of a sway bar

I have seen swaybars have bent from sub-par quality or over time and hard usage... It very very rare but it 'does' happen...

[Daveho1]

wow i guess that may happen, would make scence if someone used a very "hard" steel with low flexability i suppons on a really shit ebay one but when comparing white-line to progress surly that wouldnt be a consideration.

to me its like going and buying genuine honda indicator bulbs...

[RA73DR]

Re: Bushes - Bushes are optional however as your car is getting on near 10 yrs, most likely the suspension bushes have never been changed and by now will be squashed/worn so it will revitalise your car's handling and behaviour. If you're unsure, go underneath the car and check the condition of various suspension bushes for fraying/cracks/etc.

Re: Swaybars - Hollow or Solid it doesn't matter too much for you however hollow are lighter but less effective ie to match the rigidity of the solid, you have to go larger in diameter of a hollow. It's just something to know about ;)

Re: Koni - You have to be careful, usually with most companies there is Geo-Blocking ie Within country of purchase so if you bought from say Koni USA then your warranty might be valid only to them. This might not be the case with Koni but best to check ;)



#01 - Like the others have mentioned, in general, you'll notice the body roll is minimised or eliminated. Get your combination wrong though and your car can become oversteer/understeer prone.

#02 - Only a RSB or both FSB and RSB is highly dependent on your car's factory setup and your driver preference. In general, FWD cars tend to be understeer bias from factory. Adding just a RSB, if the sizing is done correctly against the factory FSB, the car can be neutral or bias towards oversteer. IF you go too big with RSB and makes your FWD car a little too tail nervous, you can counter with a thicker front sway =)

im not too familiar with suspension bushes for a car.

i just searched them up on ebay and there are so many options like UPPER and LOWER and FRONT and REAR and OUTER bush kits ? do all these need to be changed if i was to change bushes?

so many bushes never thought much of it lol confused me

[u mad?]

1 star thread

will not read again


re bushes, you can buy complete kits

the labor is a lot of $$$$$$ if youre not doing them yourself.

[DreadAngel]

im not too familiar with suspension bushes for a car.

i just searched them up on ebay and there are so many options like UPPER and LOWER and FRONT and REAR and OUTER bush kits ? do all these need to be changed if i was to change bushes?

so many bushes never thought much of it lol confused me

Best to do them all in one shot, as he said, you can get complete kits ;)

[RA73DR]

ok, there is something reall really bugging my about my dc5r. i relise that at 6000rpm the crossover is good you feel increased power etc , but the thing bothering me is that when i stretch the gear , SOMETIMES just before the redline not sure i think 7700 rpm or so? i feel a crazy pull usually best in 3rd, sometimes second as well. like its the top end pull that is known for the vtec basically. but the thing bothering me is that it doesnt always do that top end pull only sometimes. the only thing i have is a short ram intake which i bought with it on the car already.

my mate has a type s with a short ram intake and when his car crosses over, there isnt a feel in increased power but at the top end you feel that extra pull that i get SOMETIMES in my dc5r but his one is consistent he also has a short ram on.

what could it be? i mean come on, it shouldnt be a 3-4 time thing out of 10 that it would pull top end, it should be consistent? what are your opinions on this guys ?

[Vvvtec]

Yeah that doesn't sound right at all? Has the car thrown any CEL's?

Sounds very odd. Does the car run cool? As in, literally does the temp gauge rise to warm when driving? Sounds like a compensation in the stock ecu. Almost like ignition retard when the car is cold. I'm not saying that's what it is at all, just seems like a similar symptom.

Weird/

[RA73DR]

Yeah that doesn't sound right at all? Has the car thrown any CEL's?

Sounds very odd. Does the car run cool? As in, literally does the temp gauge rise to warm when driving? Sounds like a compensation in the stock ecu. Almost like ignition retard when the car is cold. I'm not saying that's what it is at all, just seems like a similar symptom.

Weird/

The temp gauge rises to normal which is like half or just under half not too sure ? But its tripping me out and noe im paranoid of having to spend big bucks on it because i had plans to apend on other aspects of the car

[Vvvtec]

The temp gauge rises to normal which is like half or just under half not too sure ? But its tripping me out and noe im paranoid of having to spend big bucks on it because i had plans to apend on other aspects of the car

Don't worry, I know that feeling.

It's better to get everything sorted though before you start dropping money on it.

Does the car have any CEL's?

[RA73DR]

Don't worry, I know that feeling.

It's better to get everything sorted though before you start dropping money on it.

Does the car have any CEL's?

What is a CEL ?
Im hoping this is something minor and someone can help me out from past experience because the money i was going to spend is for important things like shocks and engine mounts

[Vvvtec]

What is a CEL ?
Im hoping this is something minor and someone can help me out from past experience because the money i was going to spend is for important things like shocks and engine mounts

Check Engine Light

[RA73DR]

Check Engine Light

Nah mate, none of that

[EGG5]

Nah mate, none of that

he answered your question. CEL stands for Check Engine Light.

[DreadAngel]

he answered your question. CEL stands for Check Engine Light.

I think he means that he did not get any CELs ;)