'07 Civic Sport ICE Upgrade

[kaden]

I have started researching the ICE upgrade of my Civic and I am looking for advice and feedback on my evolving plan. I am looking at doing it in 4 Stages:

Stage 1: Replace Head Unit
Stage 2: Replace Speakers
Stage 3: Add Amplifier
Stage 4: Add Subwoofer

Stage 1
Facia: AERPRO HONDA CIVIC DOUBLE DIN DASH FACIA KIT (http://www.ryda.com.au/Aerpro-Honda-Civic-Double-Din-Dash-Facia-Kit-p/fp7800.htm) is this the best option to go for?

Head Unit: I am looking for unit that supports DAB+, bluetooth phone audio and streaming (for my Nokia Lumia 920) and keeping the steering wheel controls. The PIONEER AVH-X3500DAB (http://www.ryda.com.au/Pioneer-AVH-X3500DAB-In-Dash-Media-Player-with-DAB-p/avhx3500dab.htm) seems to fit the bill nicely, but again is this the best option to go for?

Wiring Harness: HONDA STEERING WHEEL CONTROL HARNESS (A) (http://www.ryda.com.au/Honda-Steering-Wheel-Control-Harness-A-p/chho2a.htm) This will hopefully be a simple matter of plugging the new HU and turning it on.

Is there anything I have missed in this stage?

Stage 2
This early in the planning I am considering
Front: Polk Audio db6501 (http://www.soundmaster.com.au/Polk-Audio-db6501-6.5inch-Component-System-with-6.75inch-Cone/db6501/)
Rear:Polk Audo db651 (http://www.soundmaster.com.au/Polk-Audio-db651-6.5inch-Coaxial-Speakers/db651/)
Speaker Adapters Brackets: HONDA Civic, Accord 2006-UP Speaker Adapters Brackets (http://www.spiralinstallations.com/BKHSB524)
Speaker Harness: Honda, Acura, Speaker Harness SH-0004 (http://www.spiralinstallations.com/SH-0004)

I am open to other suggestions.

Stage 3
I may decide to add an amp at the same time as the speakers, but for now I will leave it separate. What sort of amp should I be looking for? I haven't set a budget yet, but I don't wont to go too crazy, just provide the power the speakers need.

Stage 4
I am not even sure I want a sub, but at this point I am planning the system to have it. I have no budget or ideas where to start.

That's all I have for now, I would be very appreciative if you can provide feedback and suggestions to help me on my way.

EDIT: Change my mind on speakers and speaker adapters

[Drifter995]

Not sure about the headunit, cause I don't really follow them much...
As for speakers, ignore the rears, and chuck that extra towards getting some decent splits for the fronts.
Other things to do with the front splits, for best results: Dynamat
Also, you shouldn't need adaptors for the speakers, you should either be able to crimp on a thing to plug them onto your speaker, solder them on, or have banana plugs that are ezpz
And for rears; If you really want them, leave them powered by the headunit.

As for amp, depending on how insane you want to go, a 4channel should do you nicely. Just have your front speakers running off the front left and right channel, and when you get a sub, just bridge it off the rear two channels. That should do you nicely.
Otherwise, a 2channel for your fronts, and a mono for the sub.

For sub, if you get a 4channel, you'll be wanting something single 4ohm voice coil, preferably. Maybe dual 2ohm (and wired in series for 4ohm load) Cause usually bridged channels only like 4ohms.
And for an enclosure, a box generally will dictate how the sub plays and sounds, so if you run a pre-fab box, it may sound a bit crap. Whereas, if you make a nice large sealed box, it'll sound tonnes better. Then if you make a ported box to specifically suit it, it'll hit lows nicely, but maybe not be as punchy.

Just remember, install is key. Mount the splits up front (If you're doing it yourself) solidly, and chuck dynamat in there, and it'll sound a million bucks. Or at least a tonne better than the stock system/ what the coax could ever sound

[curtis265]

why does this sound like an ad :S

[kaden]

Maybe I should swap the fronts to the db6501 splits as I had originally planned


why does this sound like an ad :S

probably because I have spent too much time thinking about it before asking questions :)

[kaden]

I have updated the first post with my changes (speakers and adapters)

[liquid23]

If you add speakers and no sub you will have too much treble and no bass so you will need a sub in my opinion. Can get a cheap type r 12" sub or 2 small 10" sub.
I love focal splits so I am pretty bias on speakers. I got a quote for subs, splits and 2 amps all focal for about 2.5k installed from Alberts car stereo.
Marty from FHRX is really helpful so maybe can give him a call/email.

[kaden]

If you add speakers and no sub you will have too much treble and no bass so you will need a sub in my opinion.
I would like to think the EQ in the HU would flatten out the highs (if the splits are too bright). I agree that without a sub I will be missing the lows (I am allowing for them in the future), however I am not getting the lows at the moment so I won't be missing them :)


get a cheap type r 12" sub or 2 small 10" sub.
I love focal splits so I am pretty bias on speakers. I got a quote for subs, splits and 2 amps all focal for about 2.5k installed from Alberts car stereo.
Marty from FHRX is really helpful so maybe can give him a call/email.
I hope i don't have to spend that much, while I do want an upgrade, i don't want to go crazy, just a descent sound :)

[kaden]

Well here is an update, in case anyone is reading this.

I have purchased the above equipment as well as: Polk PA660 4 Channel (http://www.polkaudio.com.au/products/amplifiers/pa-660.4-4-channel-amplifier) and PA880 Mono (http://www.polkaudio.com.au/products/amplifiers/pa-880-mono-amplifier) Amplifiers.

I have bridged the PA660 into two channels running the front splits and the rears are just connected to the head unit.

I found an old Jamo Sub 300 (http://www.jamo.com/speaker-types/subwoofers/?sku=SUB300) in my garage which had it's built-in amp fail (old HT sub) and I wired the driver directly to the PA880. I am still thinking about a new sub, but this one will do for now.

The whole setup is rather loud and sounds much better than I expected. Also there is no unwanted noise coming from the speakers (like the "hiss" sound or the whine of the alternator).

[doosra]

Since you have a 4 channel amp, why don't you run the rear speakers to the amp as well. Will make big difference.

I'd personally run your splits and rears on separate channels on your 4 channel amp rather than bridging them though. It will give clearer sound and sufficient power.

The sub you have is for home, not car. If you don't want to spend much on a sub, just find one second hand, but your amp is capable of 300W at 4ohms, so I'd try to find something a sub that's no more than 300W @ 4ohms. This kicker is fairly cheap and will save you boot space. http://www.soundmaster.com.au/Kicker-10inch-Ported-Enclosure-with-4-ohm-CompS-Subwoofer/TCWS104/

I have the above sub and I made the mistake of buying the wrong amp. The amp I bought was 500W total output but it was 175W at 4ohms, so it was only sending 175W to the sub and it sounded shithouse.. Have since changed the amp and it's great.

[kaden]

Since you have a 4 channel amp, why don't you run the rear speakers to the amp as well. Will make big difference.

My understanding is the rear speakers in car audio are practically irrelevant. In my car they are just running quietly off the head unit so they make noise for the rear passengers listening at low volumes. Once the volume is turned up the splits drown them out.



I'd personally run your splits and rears on separate channels on your 4 channel amp rather than bridging them though. It will give clearer sound and sufficient power.


I tried powering the rear speakers on the amp initially, but I had to turn the gain down really really low (ie a fraction of a turn from 0) so they didn't distort, while the gain was up really high on the splits to get them to match volume.

I put them on the head unit and they are now just audible enough, but now I have full control over the splits.

The amp is configured as a two channel amp now and the splits are so much clearer and louder at the same time, the overall clarity and volume was increased by pushing the splits harder.



The sub you have is for home, not car. If you don't want to spend much on a sub, just find one second hand, but your amp is capable of 300W at 4ohms, so I'd try to find something a sub that's no more than 300W @ 4ohms. This kicker is fairly cheap and will save you boot space. http://www.soundmaster.com.au/Kicker-10inch-Ported-Enclosure-with-4-ohm-CompS-Subwoofer/TCWS104/

I have the above sub and I made the mistake of buying the wrong amp. The amp I bought was 500W total output but it was 175W at 4ohms, so it was only sending 175W to the sub and it sounded shithouse.. Have since changed the amp and it's great.

I am aware the sub is dodgy and not ideal but is suitable for now and very powerful (given it is a 300watt sub anyway). It will allow me more time to budget for a quality sub purchase in the future, I am thinking of getting a Honda Civic Sedan 10 Inch Perfect Fit Enclosure (http://www.audiointegrations.net/catalog/item/4451254/4452929.htm) (or similar) and a decent sub for a nice clean look.

[Shimian]

Where did you install your tweeters? In the stock location? Review?

[kaden]

I put them in the stock location, but I had to "modify" the plastic to get the tweeter in. I have pictures and opinions/observations which I will post in a couple of days.

[Shimian]

that would be great.
I was told stock location is the best from the installers as they wont have to adjust the speaker crossovers and the sound is not in your face. If it was installed on the A pillar or thereabouts, I would have to drop the crossover settings as it will sound too harsh.
But in the forums, reviews say stock location is rubbish.