B18c7 warm start issues - temp sensors??

[Dyln.bxtr]

I'm posting in ere because its an integra engine and there's no hybrid section.
But I am trying to finish an ek b swap with the 2000 integra type r engine - b18c7.
But, it will only start in the cold. Not hot. As in early mornings and late nights.
Once it's been running and shut off it won't start back up again.
I've been trying to fix it and told time and again that its wiring. But I'm thinking its temperature related due to it being the factor.
Has anyone had this before??
Once started in runs rich and kinda different. I've never driven a b series so I'm not 100% sure if its correct or wrong...
Seriously please help. I want to drive my civic again :(

[Dyln.bxtr]

Okay. So I took out the iat sensor and it appears to have short out. Great.
But could it be causing it to run so rich??

[Dyln.bxtr]

So replaced the iat with one from wreckers. Returned all wiring to factory. Still the same issue. Cool nights and mornings fine. Not during the day.
Other ideas?? Map sensor? Coolant temp sensor??

[kraftycuts]

Warm start issues could be related to the CTS. Try replacing it, not too expensive.
Also look at the injectors, warm start issues may be related to the fuel delivery.
When the car has warmed up, the heat from the engine could boil the fuel in the injectors which will need fuel pump priming to get the fuel pressure back to normal.
Just a guess though, please correct me if I am wrong.

[Dyln.bxtr]

but its not even when the car has warmed up. its the simple temp of the air and sun that is causing the issues :/
but i'll check the injectors tomorrow.
however, what is the cts?

[Dyln.bxtr]

sorry. coolant temp sensor?
i have checked both sensors, coolant pissed out everywhere. there doesnt seem to be any damage to the inside of them, ill google ways to test each of the temp sensors and run through them all tomorrow.
could it be due to anything else? could it be timing related or distributor related??
also could i lose spark if the engine is flooded? is this a feature in the ecu to prevent damage to the block??

[raidbaws]

ECU could be causing this.. I had an issue with this a while back when cold the car would start fine but when warm, not sure WHY but when warm, you wouldn't get a signal back from ECU after key was turned and no lights would be on the dash at all.

[Dyln.bxtr]

nah im getting fuel pump priming, all lights on dash work fine except for the battery light which is staying lit.
no cel. nothing...

[dougie_504]

Main Relay - likely needs re-soldering.

Search it here on OzHonda.

[Dyln.bxtr]

I've got three that I've been trying through. None of the solders have any cracks either

[dougie_504]

Try re-soldering them anyway. Looks can be deceiving with those main relays.

[Adrian @ SAS]

Okay. So I took out the iat sensor and it appears to have short out. Great.
But could it be causing it to run so rich??

These usually only short put if you muck up the plugs for IACV, IAT & or charcoal canister VSV
Did you or do you have a MIL ? (engine check light)

Re coolant temp sensor, you check it with a multimeter (resistance at temp) not visually.

[Dyln.bxtr]

I thought I posted last night but apparently not.
I plan to go through and resistance check each temp sensor as well as the injectors to see whether they're causing issues.
But no. Not getting any cel codes

[Dyln.bxtr]

I've spoken to some other guys and they're saying possible crank angle sensor? Has anyone had this before??

[Daveho1]

to be honest i think that really the outside temp has nothing to do with this and its leading you up the wrong path.
go back to the start.
what is going on? do you lights? do you have fuel pump priming? do you have fuel pressure? are the injectors delivering? when it cranks are u getting sufficient voltage from the battery (test it with a multimeter please, not just say that you have lights)? are you getting spark? dose the ecu have necessary power? etc etc.
start with basic checks and work your way though, and eliminate each essential system methodically.

[Dyln.bxtr]

Fuel pump primes. There is pressure. Battery dips to approx 11.2 from 12.4 when turning over. Main relay is bran new and the internals of distributor are brand new.
Spark is there until it floods, it cuts spark and fuel to dry out the block.
No cels. Iat sensor was burnt and has been replaced.
When starts it runs off - unsure if lean or rich, but spits out dirty black water when it starts cold
About to resistance check all sensors.
If someone has information on what resistance should pair with temp I would love you. Otherwise it's a trip to wreckers during the week the to compare

[Dyln.bxtr]

Alternator tested fine
New main relay
New coil
New ignitor
New dis cap
New iat sensor

12.45 24c

6- ect no resistance (flicks down before resting back on 1.)
Ect on thermostat - no resistance ( as stated above)
Map sensor - 1+2 - 3.5
1+3 - 3.7
2+3 - 2.7
Iat (intake arm) 10 - 2.0
Tps - 1+2 - 0.9
1+3 - 5
2+3 - 4.9
Iacv - 0.02
Inj1 - 0.02
Inj2 - 0.03
Inj3 - 0.02
Inj4 - 0.03

[Dyln.bxtr]

I'm going to check early tomorrow morning what resistance they are at a lower temp and see if runs.
I'm wondering if I could be related to a damaged fuel line?

[Dyln.bxtr]

Just went and checked.
No fuel and no spark.
What the ****!!! Why has that suddenly disappeared??

[raidbaws]

Check ECU for input and output voltages and report. Or more easier, check power to fuel pump and check power to ignitor.

[Dyln.bxtr]

My knock sensor appears to have busted. The plastic can do a full 360 degrees....

[Dyln.bxtr]

I'll replace the knock sensor tomorrow and report back with more info.
I'm also planning to replace the ect sensor on the thermostat.
Is there anymore info you want while I'm playing tomorrow??

[Dyln.bxtr]

There were no knock sensors at wreckers, Honda or any part stores....
But. Ect is still showing infinite resistance.
Re loss of both fuel and spark, what could it be??
When cranking it drops to 10.8
Fuel pump is priming

[Daveho1]

the ect or knock sensor shouldnt stop the car from running so put those issues aside for a moment.
firstly has the car run with this swap in it befor? have you undertaken any repairs recently?
if you have the pump priming then it works so check for injector operation.
spark wise check for power to the dizzy then igniter then coil then plugs.

edit: keep your battery charged aswell

[Dyln.bxtr]

Yes it has run before. Early morning late nights in low temps.
No injector action. Spark plugs were bone dry when I checked. This was at mid day 30o temp. No spark at this temp either.
Coil is new. Cap is new. Igniter new. Rotar is new.
Main relay is new.
Getting a new fuel filter and high pressure pump as I have been told that lack of pressure can cause issues

[Daveho1]

so its never run properly then?
if the injectors arnt firing then try to work out why. the pumps priming fine so that rules out the pump so why buy another? dont just throw parts at it, do some actual diagnosis.

[Dyinghearts]

so its never run properly then?
if the injectors arnt firing then try to work out why. the pumps priming fine so that rules out the pump so why buy another? dont just throw parts at it, do some actual diagnosis.

^^^^^^^^^^ plus 1. well dylan is new to swapping, a first timer. i'd say take it to hpr or 999 or some motorsport shop to have it actually check. youre just forking out more money for these and playing guessing games.

[Daveho1]

if you can take it somewhere it would defiantly be easier but that being said they will have to go over EVERYTHING. so it wont be cheap.
like i said befor start at the start. why is there no spark, why is there no fuel, is there an immobilizer etc etc just saying things are new dosnt do anything for you if they dont work.

[Dyln.bxtr]

The problem was immobiliser.
Someone had ripped the PCB chip off the ecu board rather than bypassing correctly.
Has now been fixed and is waiting on a knock sensor before tracking it.