What else should you replace when changing the timing belt?

[rhys.l]

Hey guys,

As above, what do you recommend should be done during a timing belt replacement service?

Reason I ask is I'm being told all sorts of things should be done, like cam seals, water pump, head gasket, but the car has only done 35 000km since the last timing belt job and I don't want to be replacing good parts. I don't plan on keeping the car for the next 5 years either.

[Adrian @ SAS]

Hey guys,

As above, what do you recommend should be done during a timing belt replacement service?

Reason I ask is I'm being told all sorts of things should be done, like cam seals, water pump, head gasket, but the car has only done 35 000km since the last timing belt job and I don't want to be replacing good parts. I don't plan on keeping the car for the next 5 years either.

If you use the "Dayco" kit, it comes with cam belt, tesioner, cam seals, front main seal & correct seal lubricant for installation.
If water pump is leaking, or feels "iffy" replace this too...
Rocker cover gaskets are also a good idea.
Belt cover rubber seals can be re-attached with contact adhesive if dislodged.

[rhys.l]

Great, thanks. I was planning on using OEM parts...is there any reason not to?

[Adrian @ SAS]

Appart from cost, OEM would be a very good choice. :thumbsup:

[u mad?]

brand new timing belt kit including water pump can be had for 300ish bucks, thats the dayco one, includes all seals ect.

would like to see how much genuine honda kit would cost lol

[rhys.l]

So do most people just use the Dayco gear? Or some other aftermarket brand? If it's got a good rep and no one else has had any probs, I suppose it could be a good option. Everything else I've done on the car I've used OEM parts that's all, was thinking it would be a good idea to continue this especially for something important like a timing belt and water pump.

[Adrian @ SAS]

Dayco belts are good... There would be hundreds if not thousands used everyday across the country by mechanics everywhere.

OEM parts are excellent, they just cost more, that's all...
& TBO it's hard to say if they're any better as both have no drama meeting the service interval.

[u mad?]

when i was at burson thats what we sold exclusively to all the workshops/ mechanics, never had one come back from failures.
I'd personally run OEM but dayco is certainly not a 'bad' choice, just a cost effective one.

[Daveho1]

hyundai for example have there timing belts supplied by dayco, this is the case for alot of oem items.
there is nothing wrong with aftermarket as long as it meets or exceeds oem spec

[rhys.l]

Thanks for the replies guys. Had a chat to a mate who used Dayco and it didn't go so well. I think I'll stick with OEM just to be safe.

[Daveho1]

as i said before oem probably is dayco, gates or smiler car manufacturers dont make make consumables generally speaking like peugeot, honda citroen hyundai etc etc all use ngk or bosch plugs.
what happend with your mate? in my experiance belt issues are gennerally a user issue but im happy to be proven wrong as the truth on matters like this is valuable

[Jasemas]

For Honda
Their timing belts are supplied by Gates and Mitsuboshi and some others - Not MitsUbishi
While you're down there doing the timing belt
replace all the tensioners, springs, bearings, seals and thermostat (if doing water pump)
And make sure you do the water pump - as having one fail after the timing belt job WILL be a bitch

[rhys.l]

Apparently the Dayco belt was a bit longer than it should have been. I don't know the full details, but tbh it's enough to put me off them. I don't want any dramas and I'm prepared to pay the extra (like I have with all other parts) so I don't have any.

Thanks Jasemas, I'm planning on doing the belt, tensioner, springs, cam seals and front main seal. I think I'll risk the water pump as the car hasn't done that many kms. Thermo was done recently too. Shouldn't be much more $150-200 for the above depending on where I go, that's for OEM Honda.

Edit - you can get an OEM belt, tensioner, cam seals, front main seal and water pump for ~$320 in Australia if you know who to ask. Dayco can get stuffed haha

[Daveho1]

inb4mate got wrong belt

[rhys.l]

I dunno, he's a member here and will probably see this at some stage, he can explain if he wants.

[Adrian @ SAS]

Apparently the Dayco belt was a bit longer than it should have been. I don't know the full details, but tbh it's enough to put me off them. I don't want any dramas and I'm prepared to pay the extra (like I have with all other parts) so I don't have any.

Thanks Jasemas, I'm planning on doing the belt, tensioner, springs, cam seals and front main seal. I think I'll risk the water pump as the car hasn't done that many kms. Thermo was done recently too. Shouldn't be much more $150-200 for the above depending on where I go, that's for OEM Honda.

Edit - you can get an OEM belt, tensioner, cam seals, front main seal and water pump for ~$320 in Australia if you know who to ask. Dayco can get stuffed haha

B16A belt = 124 teeth
B18C belt = 126 teeth
Early gates racing belts were 125, but that issue has been resolved now.
My guess is you mate got the wrong belt...

Anyhoo...
$320 is not bad...
OEM belt is usually $85
OEM water pump around $210
OEM timing belt tensioner around $135
So to get them & the three OEM seals for $310 you're doing well :thumbsup:

& tell everyone where you got it so we all know where to buy :p

[u mad?]

Edit - you can get an OEM belt, tensioner, cam seals, front main seal and water pump for ~$320 in Australia if you know who to ask. Dayco can get stuffed haha

damn, who this from?

[Daveho1]

in my experience most dealers will give you trade if your a decent person to them and not profiteering, that dose help out alot.

[Jasemas]

I plane to tackle my timing belt myself in the future... /wrist

[rhys.l]

I'm a bit scared doing it myself but the local Honda dealership want $138/hour to do the work lol

[Jasemas]

Easily a 3 1/2 hour job
The biggest problem you WILL have is breaking open the crankshaft pulley bolt
You need a special tool and they're honda dealerships speciality

[Daveho1]

you can quite easily make one, IIRC the harmonic balancer accepts a 36mm nut to which u weld a pole to.. the hole in the middle of the nut is large enough for the 19mm socket to go through
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDE5WDgwMA==/$(KGrHqJ,!lQE65J)(c5CBPQ4B1rT8g~~60_35.JPG

[rhys.l]

Thanks for the tips. Sounds pretty wild, might just cough up and pay someone else to have fun with it. I'll get the valve clearances checked as well

[Daveho1]

honestly its a very straight forward procedure but it is nerve racking for the first few..

[cbauto]

Thanks for the tips. Sounds pretty wild, might just cough up and pay someone else to have fun with it. I'll get the valve clearances checked as well

Doing mine right now.

Stay tuned for DIY.

[Vvvtec]

I have a crank pulley tool rhys :)

[Jasemas]

Doing mine right now.

Stay tuned for DIY.

Goodluck!

[cbauto]

The biggest problem you WILL have is breaking open the crankshaft pulley bolt
for me, this is the easiest process.

takes 2 seconds.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/127024375/forum%20links/2013-10-14%2016.56.53.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/127024375/forum%20links/2013-10-14%2016.58.41.jpg



B16A belt = 124 teeth
B18C belt = 126 teeth
Early gates racing belts were 125, but that issue has been resolved now.
My guess is you mate got the wrong belt...
I counted the number of teeth on my gates belt. 126 like you say for b18c

part number for gates b18c timing belt is:-

T247RB

for anyone searching up belts.


I plane to tackle my timing belt myself in the future... /wrist

Should be no problem if you're handy with tools.

only thing you should triple check is everything lines up when putting the belt back on.
that's it really.

to break it down for you....

- line up TDC
- undo all drive belts. Alternator, A/C, P/S, engine mount
- take off cam cover, belt covers.
- undo crank bolt, tensioner.
- change tensioner, water pump, seals as you so wish.
- put the belt back on and make sure everything lines up. tension the belt

and then put everything back on.

I know it takes pro's half a day to complete but I'm a DIY'er, taking my time and cleaning as i go.

Halfway done. everything out.

I'm not changing main seal or cam seals. looks spotless. water pump was pretty good too but changing anyway.

tomorrow will re-assemble everything.



This is all step 2 above out of the way.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/127024375/forum%20links/2013-10-14%2016.52.19.jpg



Much to my surprise, the internals were filthy.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/127024375/forum%20links/2013-10-14%2017.24.28.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/127024375/forum%20links/2013-10-14%2017.25.54.jpg

12yo belt

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/127024375/forum%20links/2013-10-14%2017.25.04.jpg

[rhys.l]

Nice work. Doesn't sound that involved. If you were to change the cam seals and main seal, are they easy to do? Can you just sort of pry them off and then carefully knock the replacements back in?

What's with the gunk around the base of the block? My car had something similar, thought it might have been a bit of weeping from the main seal. Or out the sump gasket I suppose.

[cbauto]

Nice work. Doesn't sound that involved. If you were to change the cam seals and main seal, are they easy to do? Can you just sort of pry them off and then carefully knock the replacements back in?

What's with the gunk around the base of the block? My car had something similar, thought it might have been a bit of weeping from the main seal. Or out the sump gasket I suppose.
Gunk is caused by a loose dipstick tube.
See this thread for correct fix -
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?145561-Loose-Dip-Stick-Tube/page2

The only way to work out for sure where the seeping is coming from is to degrease and inspect where it's coming from.

Yeah. Seals are not hard. Just pry out, clean and press back in carefully.

[u mad?]

what u mean filthy, looks clean as fuk

or u avvin a giggle

[rhys.l]

Gunk is caused by a loose dipstick tube.
See this thread for correct fix -
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?145561-Loose-Dip-Stick-Tube/page2

The only way to work out for sure where the seeping is coming from is to degrease and inspect where it's coming from.

Yeah. Seals are not hard. Just pry out, clean and press back in carefully.

Awesome, thanks for the info. I'd say that's what my problem is too, dipstick wobbles around a bit when the car is hot

[Jasemas]

Nahh man that head looks minty as
No oil staining whatsoever
The only problem i'm facing is breaking open the crackshaft bolt with hand tools... 3/4' tools look hard/expensive to get
i don't own any air tools
And i know you need one that has at least 500nm of torque
As the thread is counter clockwise and the car rotates counter clockwise - its like an oxymoron LOL

[cbauto]

what u mean filthy, looks clean as fuk

or u avvin a giggle

U mud?

[cbauto]

this is what i mean by taking my time.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/127024375/forum%20links/2013-10-15%2015.37.19.jpg


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/127024375/forum%20links/2013-10-15%2015.38.25.jpg


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/127024375/forum%20links/2013-10-15%2015.39.23.jpg


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/127024375/forum%20links/2013-10-15%2016.30.12.jpg


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/127024375/forum%20links/2013-10-15%2016.31.36.jpg

[Daveho1]

dis guy dose some good work.
hes worthy of your rep, make it rain!

[Vvvtec]

nice barry, got it cleaned up real nice!

[Adrian @ SAS]

One step forgotten in the quick DIY instructions is to fit the alignment pins (4mm) into the cams so they don't move.

There are 2 holes in each cam spray bar above each camshaft...
One hole in each bar lines up with a pin hole in OEM camshaft at correct TDC
(RH hole - intake / LH hole exhaust)

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/127024375/forum%20links/2013-10-14%2017.24.28.jpg

Not critical, but it's a big help for those a little green or unsure when working on engines
Hope that helps

[mocchi]

cbauto best mechanic :thumbsup:

[EKVTIR-T]

or use gear lock

http://s24.postimg.org/4zhqsjvol/T2e_C16d_HJHg_FFlq3mm_FBRgs_PFYleg_60_12.jpg
http://s24.postimg.org/gd4a3r679/T2e_C16_JHJHUFFfy_Rz_Ew_BRgs_PH_l_PQ_60_12.jpg

[cbauto]

Someone pm'ed me on how to tension the belt correctly.

I don't know if I do it the correct way or not but my way works for me.


After the belt is on correctly and you've triple checked camshaft amd crankshaft position.
Turn the engine a few turns so that the belt settles.
Do up the crank bolt etc.
Have the tensioner done up tight enough so that it's not too loose but loose enough so that when you turn the crank anti-clockwise, you can see the spring move when the piston compresses.
When there is no compression, you can actually see the spring doing its job pulling on the tensioner.

I actually give an extra pull on the tensioner with my hands to help it along before I do up the tensioner bolt.

[Daveho1]

i found that when at TDC (with tension off the belt) and rotating the engine 3 teeth past TDC there isnt quite enough tension for my liking so i help the tesioner up there with my hand aswell

[cbauto]

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/127024375/forum%20links/2013-10-16%2011.36.29.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/127024375/forum%20links/2013-10-16%2012.56.39.jpg

[rhys.l]

Nice. PM'ed

[cbauto]

Pm received.

Pm sent.

[Vvvtec]

Looks great Barry, top job mate. Polish up them acorn nuts while your at it

[cbauto]

Don't sabotage rhys's engine.

[Vvvtec]

Don't sabotage rhys's engine.

inb4 replace with K24

:)

[gambate]

guys, what is the best thing to use to clean up rocker cover without hurting the wrinkled paint?

[cbauto]

Tub or baby bath, petrol, paint brush, clean, rinse with water, dry in the sun.

Make sure you rinse out degreaser properly and dry it properly.

Else your engine will go bang.

[mocchi]

Tub or baby bath, petrol, paint brush, clean, rinse with water, dry in the sun.

Make sure you rinse out degreaser properly and dry it properly.

Else your engine will go bang.

http://imgur.com/HLden.png

[rhys.l]

Yo CB, now you have that o ring under the dipstick holder, are you finding the oil level shown by the dipstick incorrect (because it now sits higher out of the sump)? I tried the o ring method but wasn't happy with how the holder seated itself, so I ended up using some permatex sealant around it instead, and got it to seat a bit lower

[cbauto]

Itslike 2mm higher.

Its fine.

[rhys.l]

Got stuck into this DIY yesterday, with the help of Vvvtec and TbM.

Looked pretty mint under here. Old belt looking pretty much new haha

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k53/rocky_mtn50/Openedup_zps9239b2f5.jpg (http://s85.photobucket.com/user/rocky_mtn50/media/Openedup_zps9239b2f5.jpg.html)

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k53/rocky_mtn50/Openedup_2_zps575295de.jpg (http://s85.photobucket.com/user/rocky_mtn50/media/Openedup_2_zps575295de.jpg.html)

Sparkies out, getting ready to pull the belt and the rest of it off

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k53/rocky_mtn50/Sparkplugsout_zps2de6078c.jpg (http://s85.photobucket.com/user/rocky_mtn50/media/Sparkplugsout_zps2de6078c.jpg.html)

Saucepans came in pretty handy

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k53/rocky_mtn50/Saucepans_zps8595ae5d.jpg (http://s85.photobucket.com/user/rocky_mtn50/media/Saucepans_zps8595ae5d.jpg.html)

Crankshaft, all the belts off

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k53/rocky_mtn50/Crankshaftpulley_zps2151c31f.jpg (http://s85.photobucket.com/user/rocky_mtn50/media/Crankshaftpulley_zps2151c31f.jpg.html)

Then we decided to Kswap it

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k53/rocky_mtn50/Kswap_zps53b5ccd7.jpg (http://s85.photobucket.com/user/rocky_mtn50/media/Kswap_zps53b5ccd7.jpg.html)

Gearbox broke, so we had to put the B back in. New belt on and tensioned, Adam doing the valve clearances. He loved doing this so much, I think he has decided to become a B18c valve clearance specialist

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k53/rocky_mtn50/Valves_zps82d22357.jpg (http://s85.photobucket.com/user/rocky_mtn50/media/Valves_zps82d22357.jpg.html)

A few hours later

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k53/rocky_mtn50/Valves2_zpsa4219442.jpg (http://s85.photobucket.com/user/rocky_mtn50/media/Valves2_zpsa4219442.jpg.html)


Car seems to be running great. Big thanks to Adam and Alex for helping (doing) this for me, and for all the help in this thread from you guys :thumbsup:

[u mad?]

P&P performance at it again

nice

[Jasemas]

Howd you break the crank pulley open

[rhys.l]

Wedged the pulley tool against the ground with some blocks of wood, then used a ratchet with about 1.5m of extension on the end to crack the bolt. It was still tight haha.

[cbauto]

Nice.

Adam & Alex are gentlemen for helping out.

[Daveho1]

cashed up dollers where saved

[rhys.l]

Yeah they are champions. Getting a few random idle problems, so the fun isn't over yet.

[Daveho1]

call the wreckers

[rhys.l]

Might call up my local Dayco specialist :p

[cbauto]

Yeah they are champions. Getting a few random idle problems, so the fun isn't over yet.

Mine idles funny now after I did all the service stuff.

Higher idle when a/c is turned on is a little slow.

I think need to clean iacv and adjust fitv.

After resetting ecu, its pretty good



Probably all due to flush and change of coolant.

Shit clogged in there

[Daveho1]

Might call up my local Dayco specialist :p
you cheeky kun7 lol.
+1 for cleaninng the iacv and the fitv then resetting the ecu

[rhys.l]

Thanks fellas. I cleaned the IACV. B18c7 doesn't have a FITV. ECU has been reset, coolant bleed about a million times. Still having dramas.

My problem - If you are driving around with the car cold and put the clutch in (like stopping at the lights) the revs drop past the proper idle point and the car almost cuts out. When warm, this prob is gone. Instead, when you jab the throttle quickly from idle (like for a quick take off), the revs initially drop (to like 500rpm or less) before going up as they should. The actual idle rpms are fine (~830 rpm warm).

[Jasemas]

Have you tried adjusting base ide?

[cbauto]

Sounds normal, how many k's on the car?
Adjust throttle cable, clean throttle body, clean everything, that's all you can do.

Clean injectors. Fuel filter. Etc.

After resetting ecu, should normalize after time.



With revs dropping when you stab the throttle quickly, you will always get idle drop before rpm rise.

Reason for this is delay from mechanical throttle cable.
If drive by wire, no delay, is better.

Cable puts more air in, takes a fraction of time for sensors and ecu to adjust fuel.
Thanks fellas. I cleaned the IACV. B18c7 doesn't have a FITV. ECU has been reset, coolant bleed about a million times. Still having dramas.

My problem - If you are driving around with the car cold and put the clutch in (like stopping at the lights) the revs drop past the proper idle point and the car almost cuts out. When warm, this prob is gone. Instead, when you jab the throttle quickly from idle (like for a quick take off), the revs initially drop (to like 500rpm or less) before going up as they should. The actual idle rpms are fine (~830 rpm warm).

[rhys.l]

No haven't mucked with that screw. I haven't see any reason to when it's idling where it should (800-850rpm)


Sounds normal, how many k's on the car?
Adjust throttle cable, clean throttle body, clean everything, that's all you can do.

Clean injectors. Fuel filter. Etc.

After resetting ecu, should normalize after time.



With revs dropping when you stab the throttle quickly, you will always get idle drop before rpm rise.

Reason for this is delay from mechanical throttle cable.
If drive by wire, no delay, is better.

Cable puts more air in, takes a fraction of time for sensors and ecu to adjust fuel.

I can live with the rev drop after the throttle stab, but there's no way the cold idle cut out is normal. Hopefully you're right and things sort themselves out over time. Car has 114k, I've cleaned the throttle body, and I suppose I try some of that other stuff. It's all been done over the last 18 months though. Is there any point looking at the TPS? It's way too big a coincidence this has all happened after the timing belt change..

[cbauto]

Sorry it sounds like jibber jabber. Typing on the phone.

[rhys.l]

Adam and I did the following this afternoon. Problem is still there

- IACV cleaned
- Throttle body cleaned
- New spark plugs
- TPS tested (voltages are normal)
- Coolant bleed multiple times
- ECU reset multiple times
- 02 sensor unplugged, no difference
- Accessory belts loosened
- Vacuum leaks checked (nothing)
- IACV unplugged (car doesn't idle, throws code)

All I think of that's left is to loosen the timing belt somewhat. Does anyone think having the timing belt too tight could be the cause? Clutching at strings I know.
Only other option is to get a new IACV, and see if that helps.

[EKVTIR-T]

drive by wire has no lag....?


you learn something new everyday on OH...

[cbauto]

drive by wire has no lag....?


you learn something new everyday on OH...

In theory.

Do you have Anything positive to input?.

[Daveho1]

honestly it sounds like most b series i know, unless the car acctually stalls i wouldnt worry especially since its fine after its at temp.. in addition i wouldnt recommend loosening your timing belt

[cbauto]

Sorry, missed that.

Don't losen your timing chain......









I mean belt.......

[rhys.l]

I might post a vid so you guys can see what it does. If it is normal for a B series I want a new engine lol.

So no timing belt loosening hey? We did do it up pretty tight, gave the tensioner that extra pull across before torqueing up. It was tight but didn't seem too tight - there was still deflection between the exhaust and crank. It makes a bit of a whirry noise now when I rev it, but I've heard that on a friend's Honda so it could be normal.

[rhys.l]

Put another IACV on, still got the same issues... :(

I think the next step is to check the valve clearances again. Did a bit of googling and you get these problems if they are too tight..

How does everyone think we should do the valve clearances? We measured valve-rocker, as recommended by a few people, but when doing this the correct feeler didn't fit cam lobe-rocker. The manual for the car I have (Haynes I think) says do it cam lobe-rocker so I might try that this time. Too loose is better than too tight, for now.

[cbauto]

Yes, of couse different.

But I did valve rocker if that helps.

[rhys.l]

That's what Adrian reckoned as well. I'm going to go cam lobe- rocker, and the looser side of the range this time around. Will report back

[mocchi]

how is it different?

b18 manual says lobe-rocker
k20 manual says valve-rocker

both same tappet design

wat

[rhys.l]

Just compared for B18C. When exhaust valve-rocker = 0.007-0.008", lobe-rocker = 0.005-0.006".
Will be redoing tomorrow so lobe-rocker are in spec.
Double checked timing this afternoon, it's perfect.

[cbauto]

how is it different?

b18 manual says lobe-rocker
k20 manual says valve-rocker

both same tappet design

wat

Its different because WAT fits in one won't fit in the other.

Lyke BBC in fresh cherry.

[rhys.l]

Guys. Looks like the car is fixed. It was the valve adjustment. With it adjusted to spec measuring rocker-cam lobe, the idle problems are gone. The engine is a little noiser now, but at least it idles properly. I'd be looking at doing the same cb if you are still having idle issues and poor fuel consumption

[cbauto]

Nah

Mine is fine thanks.

Filled up 33 liters on 440kms

Works out to be 7.5ltr/100km

So my consumption is fine too.

Adjusting got a bit to do with how much drag you give the feeler.

Maybe we just do it diffeent

[cbauto]

So which has greater clearance?

From cam or from valve?


I would prefer tighter clearance.....

[cbauto]

how is it different?

b18 manual says lobe-rocker
k20 manual says valve-rocker

both same tappet design

wat
same design maybe, never seen kdwap setup. might blind me.

but different lengths and shape of pivot will make difference.

just like big potato is big and small potato is big too.

get me?

[rhys.l]

Righto. The distance valve-rocker is smaller than the distance lobe-rocker.
We may have done it differently. It's much harder to get the feeler on the valve, and it probably isn't a nice flat straight surface under there.
Every case is different - I'm happy to stick with what the manual says and have my engine work properly :thumbsup:

Edit: there's a chance something happened and one or more of the valve-rocker clearances were too tight. Seems unlikely because Adam checked them quite a few times, but I didn't check them all before re adjusting it lobe-rocker. Either way I'm happy because my engine is okay now :)

[cbauto]

I bet pope stuffed it up on purpose so you would kdwap.


Warned you about it, didn't I.

[rhys.l]

Hahah, you did

[Adrian @ SAS]

Good to hear you got it sorted... Strange that was the issue, but I guess it comes down to feel, tools etc...
The method that went wrong for you works for me, but then again, I'm old & have done it plenty of times before.
Ah well... guess that was bad advice then lol :p

[lolmclol]

I bet pope stuffed it up on purpose so you would kdwap.


Warned you about it, didn't I.

inb4 ~


knife.jpg

[rhys.l]

Good to hear you got it sorted... Strange that was the issue, but I guess it comes down to feel, tools etc...
The method that went wrong for you works for me, but then again, I'm old & have done it plenty of times before.
Ah well... guess that was bad advice then lol :p

All good Adrian. I might give it another go your way at some stage, triple check everything and stay the looser side of the tolerance ranges. There's no doubt the engine was quieter like that, and it felt like it had a little more mid range too. Not worth the possible idle dramas for me at the moment though.

[cbauto]

bump.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-Genuine-Acura-1994-1995-Integra-GSR-B18-B18C1-Water-Pump-and-Timing-Belt-/400343594155?hash=item5d365674ab:m:m2VfosC63a6urmr HGM1_p4A

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260670349665?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT