prospective EG K24 brake setup advice

[russell.94]

Hey dudes, so I'm seriously planning on a k24 swap over the next 12 months and am at the stage in my build where the suspension is almost done fully and I need to start thinking about brakes as mine currents are on their way out. I'm looking at seriously tracking this car and getting into the time attack comps here in Brisbane - somehow, haven't really looked into it all yet.

So, I'm upgrading my brakes and want to know what you guys would recommend for a prospective 200wkw eg hatch. I'm looking into a set of Endless 6 pots which should fit under my 15" Konigs from a friend at the moment. He is asking $1600 for the calipers. I'm pretty sold on the DBA 4000 series rotors, so rotors aside, is this front caliper setup good for the money?

Also, with a 6 pot up front would my braking ratio be totally skewed if I stayed with an eg6 disc setup or prelude caliper setup? Will it even matter with 6 pots up front? Is this chronic overkill for my power goals?

All comments welcome but know this is a serious question and I'm not intending to buy anything right now, I still have a bit to do on the sussy before I get to brakes...

[curtis265]

I think they are overkill - try the track with your current setup and see if it fades too much - step it up slowly rather than in big leaps IMO

[russell.94]

my current setup hardly stops my car as is - I've taken it for spirited laps up around mt tamborine and other windy roads in qld and they fade realllll quick. Would you think an eg6 setup with the right pads provide enough stopping power? I know my current eg4 brakes are totally inadequate for track yet I feel with the power I want to push even the eg6 setup may fail - following simple logic and from the research I've done... I'm looking for some hard facts here, more than just opinion, but ofcourse, opinion welcome.

[curtis265]

What pads are you using?

the EG is a light car and doesn't necessarily need giant rotors to store massive amounts of heat

[russell.94]

stock ones - its the only got 240mm front rotors and drums in the rear... I'm going to upgrade anywas

[gambate]

dc2r/ek9 5 stud coversion with good quality rotor is the best bang for the money, unless you are using super sticky tires and chasing every last tenths, you might need more than that.

[Hondarally]

I've never had big brakes on any of my competition cars, and with decent pads, have not yet once even looked like running out of brakes. Admittedly, it's always been gravel rally, so not as demanding as a 600HP time attack car.

I took the EG6 (mildly worked B16a) to Lakeside and there's only really one hard braking area - at the end of the main straight. I never looked like running out of brakes there, no matter how late or hard I braked.

You might find that stock VTiR brakes with decent pads (something like QFM are very good value for money) and good fluid will be adequate for your car on the track - they'll certainly be fine for road driving. Note all of the components have to be in good condition. Old contaminated fluid with cheap pads and half seized calipers will always end in tears, no matter how big the brakes are.

My K24 EK4 currently has the stock EK4 brake setup, but I haven't had a chance to drive it on the track yet. This is going to be a dedicated track car, so I'm sure I'll find the limits of the brakes pretty quickly. I'm expecting to have to upgrade brakes if I start chasing more power but I might get away with them with a stock K24. I have a set of S2k calipers and rotors, but these won't fit under 15"rims (which I believe I'm limited to in IPRA) so those probably won't be an option in the long run.

Can't say I have a lot of experience with Honda brakes, so unfortunately I can't offer a tried and tested solution. You obviously need to do something with the brakes, but beware of throwing big $$ at them for the sake of bling.

Of and whatever you do, don't waste your money on slotted rotors. They're the biggest scam this side of energy polarisers.

[Jasemas]

Weren't you doing a j swap two days ago lol

[bennjamin]

OP

you need to stop the weight of the car , not the power.

In saying that , dc2r 282mm fronts with standard rear discs will be fine, and should be legally passed too.

[MassiEk4]

a little cheaper than converting to Type R 5 stud with similar performance, and keep your 4x100 pattern.

Front - Mini cooper rotors (280 mm) + Crv Calipers.
Rear - EU civic rotors (260 mm) + DC5/EP3 calipers.

you can run a adjustable brake bias to properly setup/tune the brakes.

[Hondarally]

a little cheaper than converting to Type R 5 stud with similar performance, and keep your 4x100 pattern.

Front - Mini cooper rotors (280 mm) + Crv Calipers.
Rear - EU civic rotors (260 mm) + DC5/EP3 calipers.

you can run a adjustable brake bias to properly setup/tune the brakes.

Great info there, Massi. Might look into that one myself. Still fits under 15"rim, yeh? Is there a good range of pads available for the CRV calipers?

[rc_]

Great info there, Massi. Might look into that one myself. Still fits under 15"rim, yeh? Is there a good range of pads available for the CRV calipers?

This setup works pretty well for me, got the front calipers from a CRV for $50 from a wrecker in pretty good condition. Clearance to stock dc2 fat fives and 15inch cp-f's is more than enough.

Also don't dismiss how much difference you can get with just new pads and fluid. When I put the CRV calipers on they had some newish looking bendix pads in them, I tried them out on the street and I was a bit disappointed at the pedal feel and initial bite.

Changed to yellow stuff pads, noticed a dramatic change in feel straight away after bed in on the street and very good on the track. Have done a couple of track days on them at Sandown and haven't had any sign of fade. I just used the Nulon super dot 4 fluid which has held up well and is super cheap.

I don't think you need to spend ridiculous amounts on BBK when you have other much cheaper viable options to try first. If it doesn't work out then you are only out maybe a few hundred for the whole setup and can probably on sell the kit pretty easy.

Edit: and yes the pad range for the crv caliper is fine, they are the same pads as for the dc2 type R so many performance oriented pads out there.

[russell.94]

Weren't you doing a j swap two days ago lol

ha yea I was until I talked to stndrd from sydney and was educated as to why the j wasn't for my intended purposes

[russell.94]

OP

you need to stop the weight of the car , not the power.

In saying that , dc2r 282mm fronts with standard rear discs will be fine, and should be legally passed too.

thats what i'm now opting for, I'll most likely be purchasing a dc2 front and rear set which I'll then upgrade the fronts to prelude calipers and 282's from a mate...

[russell.94]

great info guys! this is exactly what I wanted to get back from the initial question.

[MassiEk4]

Great info there, Massi. Might look into that one myself. Still fits under 15"rim, yeh? Is there a good range of pads available for the CRV calipers?

Yea, fits under 15" wheels but watch out for the offset though. I have 16x7 44+ and need a 5 mm spacer up front.
CRV calipers = DC2R = prelude si/vtir = accords etc.... SO you got heaps of choices for pads, I am using Intima pads (yet to use them, my car is still not finished)


Eg civics are somewhat light weight cars, so you can get away with a poor man's big brake seup.
The final performance then comes from proper balance.

OP, If you have your heat set on some big brakes you can always get some Acura TL calipers and use 300mm rotors.
http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a594/MassiissaM/AcuraTLcalipers_zpsab1bf692.jpg

[Tai]

thats what i'm now opting for, I'll most likely be purchasing a dc2 front and rear set which I'll then upgrade the fronts to prelude calipers and 282's from a mate...

You might as well go dc2r 5 lug full swap as it will have better choice of wheels as well.

And when you think about it 5 fingers grips things better than 4 fingers.

[stndrd]

I am based in Melbourne mate :P

For the price of the Endless 6 pot calipers by themselves, I can do a mini 6 pot ATS Brake System kit including rotors, pads & lines for roughly the same price. Also all ATS calipers allow for you to use Project Mu pads if you do not like the ATS pads.

I am using VTi-R front on my EG at the moment with Project Mu RC-09 pads & RDA rotors. It holds up well but I cannot jump on the brakes as late as I would like to. Upgrading to a Type R size all round will make a difference, but if you are serious on the track times, a BBK of some form will be required to help bring down the lap times

[russell.94]

I am based in Melbourne mate :P

For the price of the Endless 6 pot calipers by themselves, I can do a mini 6 pot ATS Brake System kit including rotors, pads & lines for roughly the same price. Also all ATS calipers allow for you to use Project Mu pads if you do not like the ATS pads.

I am using VTi-R front on my EG at the moment with Project Mu RC-09 pads & RDA rotors. It holds up well but I cannot jump on the brakes as late as I would like to. Upgrading to a Type R size all round will make a difference, but if you are serious on the track times, a BBK of some form will be required to help bring down the lap times

****, sorry dude *melbourne*
ok well I'll source myself some hubs and knuckles and go from there. Until work starts paying me correctly however, I wont be able to afford anything

[lil_foy]

282 setup with good rotors and endless pads will be more then enough, I run dba4000 282 rotors with endless mx72 pads and I havent had it fade once yet (58 second QR Sprint, 60 second Lakeside). I just use standard EG rear rotor setup with slotted rotors. Ive even had the brakes smoking coming back into the pits but they were still working fine. Werent you looking for $50 camber arms like 2 days ago though? Suspension is hardy "done" if thats the case. Remember if you're doing 200+kph (i get to 215~kph at lakeside with a b18cr EG) the last thing you want is a cheap part to fail.

My best advise for you right now as you seem keen to learn but a bit ambitious with what you want to do with the car is seat time, I can put money on you'd struggle to drive a K swap honda at full pace. Get some decent coilovers, camber arms, brakes (as advised in this thread) and most importantly good tyres and get out there and drive drive drive. Plenty of guys out there without much power that are doing pretty well!

[mocchi]

lol $50 camber arms

[russell.94]

282 setup with good rotors and endless pads will be more then enough, I run dba4000 282 rotors with endless mx72 pads and I havent had it fade once yet (58 second QR Sprint, 60 second Lakeside). I just use standard EG rear rotor setup with slotted rotors. Ive even had the brakes smoking coming back into the pits but they were still working fine. Werent you looking for $50 camber arms like 2 days ago though? Suspension is hardy "done" if thats the case. Remember if you're doing 200+kph (i get to 215~kph at lakeside with a b18cr EG) the last thing you want is a cheap part to fail.

My best advise for you right now as you seem keen to learn but a bit ambitious with what you want to do with the car is seat time, I can put money on you'd struggle to drive a K swap honda at full pace. Get some decent coilovers, camber arms, brakes (as advised in this thread) and most importantly good tyres and get out there and drive drive drive. Plenty of guys out there without much power that are doing pretty well!

cheers for the advice dude but youve got me totally wrong hey - I've got suspension actually DONE all round with new bushings I just needed that camber kit so i could look a bit more legal for this weekends cruise - I rolled my fenders instead. My suspension consists of hardrace bushings ALL ROUND w/ DGR 10k/6k coilovers, itr front 24mm sway with poly end links, whiteline rear 24mm sway with spherical end links. My car isnt stock. I haven't thrown it on a track but I've put through its paces on the back streets more than enough to get an idea of what i want and need. Oh and its on konig wideopens with 15x8+20 with achilles atr's all round. Its ready for a K swap more than you may think. I've got friends whove experienced my car to back this up - some with K swaps of their own that handle worse than mine.