Anthony : 1987 Accord Aerodeck LXR-S

[YOanthony]

Hey boys :D So this is why the purple Accord hasn't been updated very often. I bought a Japanese import off of someone from this forum. The 1987 Accord Aerodeck LXR-S.

Bought it from QLD for $800, it has 162,500kms (B18A dual carb), no major rust, comes with a few cool rare options (OEM mats, digital climate, power folding mirrors, OEM visors). The paint has seen better days, but the interior is relatively neat. :) The engine runs well, there are too many missing parts. It was previously registered in QLD from 2002 to 2009. It has a QLD modification plate, the old owner plans on sending me the old rego papers (as he forgot to put them in the car when they picked it up). I had it shipped down for $469 and it arrived TODAY (24/12/13). Also, it's thought to be the only one in Australia. ;)

Only one pop-up light works too. But that's okay. :) The power folding mirrors don't work. A/C works, sunroof works, gauges work.

Enough talking, onto the pics. :)

http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/q80/s720x720/1488309_708476389170642_1985045608_n.jpg

http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/q75/s720x720/1528692_708476012504013_1837283184_n.jpg

http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/q74/s720x720/1535645_708476075837340_467066341_n.jpg

http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/q71/s720x720/1508135_708476082504006_570096612_n.jpg

http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/q71/s720x720/1510544_708476159170665_1539582704_n.jpg

http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/q71/s720x720/1493147_708476129170668_1667889500_n.jpg

http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/q71/s720x720/1497604_708476175837330_112537424_n.jpg

http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/q77/s720x720/1524873_708476239170657_205233369_n.jpg

http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/q77/s720x720/1521672_708476232503991_2088086707_n.jpg

http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1538742_708487982502816_571793707_n.jpg

[Renaissance_x]

Such a cool car.

I was hoping this would go to a good home.

[EKVTIR-T]

congrats


this will be great once you tidy it up

sorta like a jdm version of amc pacer

http://s21.postimg.org/umpgeo3qf/waynes_world_pacer.jpg

[YOanthony]

Such a cool car.

I was hoping this would go to a good home.
Yep. I have big plans for it. :)


congrats


this will be great once you tidy it up

sorta like a jdm version of amc pacer

http://s21.postimg.org/umpgeo3qf/waynes_world_pacer.jpg
Hahahah oh dear god. I hope not. Never been a fan of the pacers ever since Pimp My Ride. :P

Also, I should add that I have this waiting;

http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1476052_702967689721512_484333470_n.jpg

Battery Century,
Oil Penrite 10w-50 (might take it back and change over for 15w-40),
Coolant Tectaloy 90+,
Camshaft, Alt., PS and A/C belts,
Radiator Cap,
Oil and Fuel filters (Repco and Ryco respectively), and
Spark Plugs NGK.

http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1003575_707620405922907_449456801_n.jpg

Top Gun Heavy Duty lead set,
Top radiator hose,
Air Filter Ryco.

[Jasemas]

**** yeah
been waiting for this thread for weeks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Jasemas]

Time to buy a repair manual for this baby
Any news on whats happening to Cat?

[YOanthony]

Time to buy a repair manual for this baby
Any news on whats happening to Cat?

Yeah I know hahaha I forgot to buy one a few weeks ago. :P
News? Well, I'll definitely be driving her for a few more months. I need a daily while I get the Aerodeck repaired.
Parents have agreed to let me keep her in the front yard under a tree for $50 a month... I'm still uneasy about it, but it's better than selling her. :P

[YOanthony]

Here are some closer up photos of some details I missed in the excitement.

http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/q84/s720x720/1475849_708571939161087_1935823967_n.jpg

http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/q82/s720x720/1521683_708571945827753_1213510005_n.jpg
^I think this is an old rego sticker from Japan. Not 100% though.

http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/q79/s720x720/1525113_708571952494419_131433974_n.jpg
The interior is fairly mint! A few trim pieces sticking out, or missing, but easily fixed. :)

http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/q84/s720x720/1471374_708572005827747_1262757510_n.jpg

http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/q71/s720x720/1484731_708571979161083_1826492659_n.jpg
^An underhood insulation piece. I'd like to assume these are rare (as are for the CD5s :) )

http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/q81/s720x720/988854_708572035827744_1141376890_n.jpg
^This was on the pocket of the visor. I wonder what it could say...

http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/q81/s720x720/553709_708572029161078_428306091_n.jpg
^Some stickers :) Getting old...

http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/q77/s720x720/1483325_708572045827743_978444470_n.jpg
^Map/Reading light. I assume this is a rare piece too. I don't see any on eBay, and it's in the JDM brochure as an optional extra. :)

http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/q87/s720x720/994997_708572079161073_1890332205_n.jpg
^Another shot of the interior. :) With a good vacuum and clean, it'll come up amazing. :D

http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/q85/s720x720/1524865_708572105827737_22135385_n.jpg

[infurNOS]

so does this mean you will neglect your accord :(

[YOanthony]

so does this mean you will neglect your accord :(

:p I hope not.

[Jasemas]

That red stringy thing hanging down from the mirror - don't remove it :P
It's good luck :P

I told you about putting cat out the front
Now go and get a car cover for her!!!!!

[YOanthony]

I told you about putting cat out the front
Now go and get a car cover for her!!!!!

We will see. The time won't be for a while. :) I still need to get the Aerodeck registered.

[EKVTIR-T]

so when youre in a hurry to go somewhere you can say dramatically

to the aerodeck!!





yes i kno that was dorky but aerodeck just sounds so cool

[YOanthony]

so when youre in a hurry to go somewhere you can say dramatically

to the aerodeck!!





yes i kno that was dorky but aerodeck just sounds so cool

Haha, yes. To the Aerodeck!!
Very nice. I will make sure I use it. :P

[Jasemas]

Aerodock
Come at me :P

[mooshie]

So cool, good work on that for a purchase!

[YOanthony]

So cool, good work on that for a purchase!

Thanks man. :D

[YOanthony]

http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/q71/s720x720/601641_709061869112094_29639796_n.jpg

BOTH POP-UP LIGHTS NOW WORK! :D Turns out the connector that controls them was just unplugged, so I plugged it back in and we're good to go! :)

I also cleaned up 95% of the leaves, dirt and cobwebs in the engine and it looks rather good. Both pop-up lights now work (which saves me money on buying a new light motor), there are a few... suspicious things I need to look into with the motor, but the main thing is that it runs. I also vacuumed the interior and it looks mint as **** ! the carpet came out beautiful, all the seats came out amazing and I'm really happy with it. :) Tomorrow after work I'll get into dusting and lubricating the dash.

[EKVTIR-T]

good to see it was something so simple to remedy

I assume you will repaint the rocket cover,it makes the whole engine room look tatty like that :(

[cbauto]

Subscribed

[YOanthony]

good to see it was something so simple to remedy

I assume you will repaint the rocket cover,it makes the whole engine room look tatty like that :(

I will be. :) My dad thinks I should do it like the red top engines, but I think a simple black will do nicely. :) I also want to silver up the "Honda Engine Co." and badge. I think it'll look nice.

What do you think, EKVTIR-T?

[EKVTIR-T]

personally wouldnt do it red as its not a type r engine

oem black will be good I agree

[YOanthony]

personally wouldnt do it red as its not a type r engine

oem black will be good I agree

Cool, easy as that. :) I wanted to go black as well, something simple, and it's OEM, so I imagine it will look great. :)

[NeedVtec]

While you're doing your rocker cover give your bonnet latch the same treatment

[YOanthony]

While you're doing your rocker cover give your bonnet latch the same treatment

Mmhmm, I intend to. :) It's very sticky too. If I wanted to give it easier movement, would that just be squirting some WD40 in there?

[Jasemas]

Or some grease

[YOanthony]

Or some grease

Thanks mang. :) I will try that.

[YOanthony]

Here's some more stuff I picked up today;

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/q77/s720x720/1476106_709663435718604_1492493918_n.jpg

Globes, some glue for some broken trim pieces (temporary until I source some parts - which will be near impossible :( ), radiator flush, oil flush, some cleaning products for the interior, some rust converter and some authentic Japanese Pocky from one of my regular customers. :3

[Jasemas]

Is it obvious that you work at repco :P hehe

[YOanthony]

So a small update. :) I've been spending a lot of time cleaning the interior and it has come up really mint! I have a few problems, but I think I'll be able to handle them. :)

I have a few pics here if you want to see:
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3109_zps6942e6b3.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3108_zps7ab5ec51.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3106_zps95bb7627.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3104_zpsd74439eb.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3100_zps94485682.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3099_zps8ff81837.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3088_zps0a983547.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3087_zpsee4c1c0f.jpg

Nothing special yet. Only done the vacuuming, and cleaned the dash, doors and center console. I still have to apply the lube :P

Here's some pictures of rust. Nothing major I guess. A bit worrying that they're both on parts that are very hard to replace (the door and hatch). But I'll drop them off to a body repairer as my body repair knowledge is... none.
The 1st and 2nd picture are of the same rust spot.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3073_zps9c640dda.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3075_zps0486932a.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3074_zps90949051.jpg

Apart from that, I replaced a couple globes and I've started thinking about paint colours. I wanted to stick with OEM colours, and I was thinking something light / bright so scratches won't show up as easily. I don't see the point of getting a brand new paint job of black if I'm only going to see scratches after the first trip. :/ Not to mention keeping it clean.

Here's a compiled list of the OEM colours: http://3geez.wiki-tv.com/Available_colors
I was thinking maybe Sonic Blue Metallic Clearcoat, B-33MZ? Here's what it looks like on a hatch:

http://3geez.wiki-tv.com/w/images/6/63/B-33mz.jpg

What do you guys think? My dad thinks I should repaint it the same colour as it is now as the interior of the doors, engine bay and other visible painted areas are already black. :/ But yeah. What do you guys think?

[cbauto]

Naiceeeee




Do what you want to do.

Deep down inside, your 1st brain thought.

1st thought is the best

[YOanthony]

Naiceeeee




Do what you want to do.

Deep down inside, your 1st brain thought.

1st thought is the best

Hmm, after thinking long and hard, I might try my luck and see what a cutting compound will do for it. :)
As much as I hate owning a dark coloured car (and I REALLY do) I think I might keep the stock colours. :) Black and gold will be fine.

Besides, I was searching a while ago and found this ;) It's the first black-gold combo'd Aerodeck I like! :D

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/91000161_zps044ce8b3.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/34149603_zps2c23be89.jpg

[YOanthony]

Been busy lately. Too many excuses to be honest. I did however finish cleaning the interior. Just need to clean the glass, give it another vacuum, polish the plastics and give it a once over with some shine and it'll be looking extremely mint. :D I also managed to recover some random trim pieces and find homes for them, which is awesome as it saves me having to find them second hand :P

So today I kicked things into gear. I put it up on jack stands, drained the old fuel out (as requested by my dad), changed the oil, the oil filter, the leads, the plugs, the battery, all the fuses in the engine bay, general cleaning as I went through, and the fuse index sticker ontop of the fuse cover was peeling, so I cleaned both surfaces and glued it back on.

out of all this, the only picture I managed to take was one of the old spark plugs.
LOL. Sorry. I didn't think the other stuff was too important to take a photo.
I'll also provide a picture of before and after of the jdm fuse box index sticker. I managed to find a picture of the engine bay and zoom in, then take one of the work I did and put them next to each other. Very happy I could salvage it, cause I doubt I'd get my hands on another one. :P

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1505098_715112805173667_1280238245_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/q71/s720x720/1488109_715146155170332_645976422_n.jpg

[YOanthony]

I raided a local wreckyard a couple days ago. There was only an old CA5 hatch there. I grabbed multiple screws, the oil cap, the remaining switches (demister, headlights and dimmer) as well as a dash mat (to suit blue interior - I'll dye it or something to suit mine), fuse box lid (no sticker), heater hose and the exhaust manifold cover (which turned out not to fit). I also got some parkers. One of them was in bad condition (as in faded) and I thought it would be alright but when I got home they looked terrible. I'll just save them as spares and buy some JDM ones after I pass inspection.

Here's a picture of the stuff I bought :
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/1517540_718449058173375_1097290280_n_zps44cc3550.j pg

I also put the car up on 4 jack stands so I could get a better look at everything. It all looks okay, brakes will need replacing, calipers need a respray. There is however some damage to the chassis where it looks like someone has tried to jack it up from there. Here's a picture. My dad seems to think we can drop it off to someone and it'll be as simple as welding an L piece there. Unfortunately, this is a MUST fix before inspection, otherwise it will not pass.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/1511159_718449004840047_1652400437_n_zps1b035942.j pg

And the brakes :
front - http://tinyurl.com/pbwh52o
rear - http://tinyurl.com/otb53by

Apart from that I've dropped the coolant, found a few replacement bolts for rusted ones, I've managed to take off the bumper, pull apart the thermostat housing. So yeah, moving a long slowly. Still a bit of work to do.

[YOanthony]

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/1511159_718449004840047_1652400437_n_zps1b035942.j pg


I called up Regency to make sure I could fix this and still pass. They said as long as I got an engineers certificate I will be fine.
So I called up a chassis repair and body shop to get a quote and I was quoted $1,000 +GST WITH an engineers certificate.

So I'm happy and progress can continue on the Aerodeck :D

[YOanthony]

Old owner of the Aerodeck finally sent through the books and paper work ! :D I now have the original jdm owners manual as well as rego papers from 02-11 and service receipts from 02-11. All the stuff I thought might break (axles, alt., brake master cylinder) have already been replaced within the last 20,000-30,000kms :D

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t1/p180x540/1901231_731547026863578_1337880337_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1/p180x540/1897841_731546990196915_296587484_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/t1/p180x540/1656097_731546966863584_34167657_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1/p180x540/1689097_731546933530254_656638370_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1/p180x540/1506013_731546903530257_337610219_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t1/p180x540/1623691_731546886863592_1133266890_n.jpg

[mooshie]

Where did you get the quote for the chassis repair? I'm guessing that's $5 for the weld and $995 for the engineering! Unfortunately so expensive in SA

[YOanthony]

Where did you get the quote for the chassis repair? I'm guessing that's $5 for the weld and $995 for the engineering! Unfortunately so expensive in SA

My dad knew someone in chassis repair so I sent some photos to him and he gave me that price. : o I got his direct number though, I might ask my dad what company he was from tomorrow.

Unfortunately yes, very expensive. But I'm willing to put the money into the car if he can get me passed Regency :)

[mooshie]

What inspection to you have to go through? I went for ID on the 4door and cos the car was missing a compliance plate they sent me for a roadworthy (not tier 3) passed the roadworthy with a bent rear subframe from the hit in the side. It's a pretty obvious bend but no cracks and the alignment can still be done to within specs.

For the ID, they don't get under the car or anything, simply check numbers and if the car is obviously defectable they'll refer you for a tier 3 same as the police would on the side of the road.

If you have a compliance plate, the car has been previously registered in Australia and it looks stock then I don't see why you need to spend the cash fixing up that crack.

[YOanthony]

What inspection to you have to go through? I went for ID on the 4door and cos the car was missing a compliance plate they sent me for a roadworthy (not tier 3) passed the roadworthy with a bent rear subframe from the hit in the side. It's a pretty obvious bend but no cracks and the alignment can still be done to within specs.

For the ID, they don't get under the car or anything, simply check numbers and if the car is obviously defectable they'll refer you for a tier 3 same as the police would on the side of the road.

If you have a compliance plate, the car has been previously registered in Australia and it looks stock then I don't see why you need to spend the cash fixing up that crack.

It has been previously registered, looks stock and has a QLD compliance plate. I would prefer to fix it just in case they do get under to have a look. That, and it is an opportunity for rust to get in and eat away the cars floor. I'll pay the money, get it fixed and do it right. :) I don't wanna waste my time organising insurance, a day pass and driving all the way down only to lose the money for the inspection, insurance and rego because of an obvious crack.

Also, if I take it down and do pass with the crack. I think I'd get lazy and never pay the $1,000 to get it fixed ahahahh

[mooshie]

ID check is free though... It won't cost you anything and then if you pass you just go around and register it at the ServiceSA place around the corner.. Rego is only $40 for a day too. Virtually nothing to lose and $1000 to gain.

Fair call on the doing it right bit but you're paying for the engineering certificate not the fix. I had a similar crack welded up once and it cost $100.

Not trying to convince you, just saying there is other options. I'd get it welded but not bother with the cert.

[infurNOS]

ID check is free though... It won't cost you anything and then if you pass you just go around and register it at the ServiceSA place around the corner.. Rego is only $40 for a day too. Virtually nothing to lose and $1000 to gain.

Fair call on the doing it right bit but you're paying for the engineering certificate not the fix. I had a similar crack welded up once and it cost $100.

Not trying to convince you, just saying there is other options. I'd get it welded but not bother with the cert.

This ^

[hondapop]

I was having another look at that "crack" in the chassis rail, it's not actually a crack, it's just where the sections of the hat section (technical name for this sort of channel 'cause it's a square U shape with flanges to attach to a flat section to form a box section) have separated at an overlap. What I would do is lift the carpet out and drill some 12-13mm holes above where it's been pushed up (40mm apart). You'll probably see the line of spot welds along the "brim" of the hat as a guide, and then just work your way along with a piece of 12mm steel rod and a hammer till you've driven the channel back down into place. A tack weld if necessary is all that will be needed. This front and rear channels (hat section) aren't probably even spot welded together, just along the "brim". They're only intended to stiffen the floor pan to prevent it "plonking" up and down with movement of the car. Take it from me, I used to work in car assembly.

[YOanthony]

ID check is free though... It won't cost you anything and then if you pass you just go around and register it at the ServiceSA place around the corner.. Rego is only $40 for a day too. Virtually nothing to lose and $1000 to gain.

Fair call on the doing it right bit but you're paying for the engineering certificate not the fix. I had a similar crack welded up once and it cost $100.

Not trying to convince you, just saying there is other options. I'd get it welded but not bother with the cert.

Yeah I understand. :) Thanks for your advice, Mark. I still plan on doing it the correct way. Although it's bent, so it can't be welded back. The guy said he might even have to replace the chassis rail.

I called Regency and they quoted me $60. They said for a general inspection. And that was after I told him that the car was from QLD, had compliance plates, had previous rego papers, etc.
Doesn't matter. I'll do it correctly. I know myself and I just won't do it otherwise. :P

[YOanthony]

I was having another look at that "crack" in the chassis rail, it's not actually a crack, it's just where the sections of the hat section (technical name for this sort of channel 'cause it's a square U shape with flanges to attach to a flat section to form a box section) have separated at an overlap. What I would do is lift the carpet out and drill some 12-13mm holes above where it's been pushed up (40mm apart). You'll probably see the line of spot welds along the "brim" of the hat as a guide, and then just work your way along with a piece of 12mm steel rod and a hammer till you've driven the channel back down into place. A tack weld if necessary is all that will be needed. This front and rear channels (hat section) aren't probably even spot welded together, just along the "brim". They're only intended to stiffen the floor pan to prevent it "plonking" up and down with movement of the car. Take it from me, I used to work in car assembly.

yeah I understand but what if the inspection centre has a look (for any reason at all or I get defected in the future and they see it and ask for an engineers report for the tac welding ?

I dunno. I would prefer to have it done 100% correctly, regardless of how much it's going to cost. For peace of mind at least.

I really appreciate your help but I think I will go down the 100% correct with engineers report path. Regardless of the cost. This is a car I'll have for a long time. I wanna do everything 100% quality the first time round.

[YOanthony]

Also Mark, the person I got the quote from was John at S.A. Chassis & Suspension Services. He was recommended to my dad from a guy at his work that imports American cars and gets stuff done frequently.

[YOanthony]

So I had seen this parking pole on eBay 2 days ago and it was "Auction Only". So I spent the last 2 days keeping a good eye on it and it had one bid when I saw it which was $150.00US (and shipping was $40.00US) so at the last 2 minutes I bid $153.50US and won! :D Very VERY happy with this purchase. Although no one on my facebook seems to agree or understand :P It's the whole set too (wiring, pole, button and the led works as well as the pole). I think it will look great on the Aerodeck. :) a very nice addition!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t31/p180x540/1891395_734558636562417_499514543_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31/p180x540/131378_734558643229083_1706082487_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31/p180x540/1602053_734558723229075_857552179_o.jpg

I also have my eyes on something EXTREMELY rare. Perhaps even the rarest 3G option in the entire catalogue.
I'll be updating this space soon with more info. ;)

[Jasemas]

Oi i am happy with this 'pole' purchase thank you :P

[mooshie]

Lol, those poles are so hard to get! Mine cost over $4k! Got a free DA6 with it though.

[YOanthony]

Lol, those poles are so hard to get! Mine cost over $4k! Got a free DA6 with it though.

Haha you're not kidding. I was looking through forums and couldn't see any records of them being sold as a complete set, only in pieces and they were much more expensive than what I bought it for. :)

I read $4k and I was shocked!! :P haha

[hondapop]

Holy crap!!?? There was one of those poles on the Auto GA2 City I sold a few years ago (got $2400 for the car which I thought was fantastic). Should'a taken the pole out and advertised it on US ebay.
Just as a side note, while I was looking for some info for my DA9 I came across this site for manuals (it mentions the 86-89 Aerodecks) http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual.html

[YOanthony]

Holy crap!!?? There was one of those poles on the Auto GA2 City I sold a few years ago (got $2400 for the car which I thought was fantastic). Should'a taken the pole out and advertised it on US ebay.
Just as a side note, while I was looking for some info for my DA9 I came across this site for manuals (it mentions the 86-89 Aerodecks) http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual.html

Haha yeah these poles are getting rarer and rarer these days, especially for pre-90 cars as they're more sought after.
Thanks for that website. I had visited the main page a few times in the past but somehow never made my way to the shop manuals. :) Good find and thank you. These will keep me entertained reading tonight. :D

[EKVTIR-T]

dat rare expensive pole

nice find

[hondapop]

When I first got the GA2 and saw the switch with "Pole" written on it, I thought "what the hell is this for? Pole? wassat?. Pushed it and could here a whirring noise, then this thing with a light on the end comes up from the front bumper.

[YOanthony]

dat rare expensive pole

nice find

Thank you :)


When I first got the GA2 and saw the switch with "Pole" written on it, I thought "what the hell is this for? Pole? wassat?. Pushed it and could here a whirring noise, then this thing with a light on the end comes up from the front bumper.

LOL that would of been a shock. I've never had one of these before. I'm excited to install it. :)

[EKVTIR-T]

when you see a hot chick walking

you know what to do

[Renaissance_x]

Love the parking pole.

[YOanthony]

when you see a hot chick walking

you know what to do

Winky eye mod ? ;) ;) ;)


Love the parking pole.

Thanks man :)

[Jasemas]

when you see a hot chick walking

you know what to do

lol so rep worthy

[Grayfox]

This reminds me of my old CA Accord.

Polar White Sedan.
The A20A4 engine.
It was all bullet proof.

[YOanthony]

This reminds me of my old CA Accord.

Polar White Sedan.
The A20A4 engine.
It was all bullet proof.
Yep. This is the 3dr wagon version of the CA Accord. :) Everything from the dash to the front bumper is an exact copy. :) The doors however were lengthened to provide more room and the obvious difference with the gull wing hatch on the rear. :)

I learned the other night (from reading :P Not from trying it) that if you take the head rest out of the front seat, move them all the way forward and recline the seat it turns into a single bed - that's how much room there is. :)

[hondapop]

I had a CA hatch for quite a few years, still think it was one of the best balanced and handling stockers that Honda has made.

[Grayfox]

I was a P plater when i had my Accord.

Cost me $3000 and being a P plater to got the P Plate Abuse given to it.
Was delivering pizzas and was on the final delivery and heading back so instead of slowing down for the speed humps i kept going at the speed limit, would have gotten some air as the landing was a hard assed bang, car just on working
22 year old suspension and it handled the impact like it was nothing.

Dont drive like that no more as i am over that phase of driving like a loon on public roads.

[YOanthony]

I had a CA hatch for quite a few years, still think it was one of the best balanced and handling stockers that Honda has made.
Yep. They're definitely a cool car. I haven't driven the Aerodeck yet (only in the driveway) but when I do I can't wait to see how it handles. :) It only weighs 1000kg too. So I'm excited to see what some strut bars and sway bars can do. :) (If I have luck sourcing them of course)



I was a P plater when i had my Accord.

Cost me $3000 and being a P plater to got the P Plate Abuse given to it.
Was delivering pizzas and was on the final delivery and heading back so instead of slowing down for the speed humps i kept going at the speed limit, would have gotten some air as the landing was a hard assed bang, car just on working
22 year old suspension and it handled the impact like it was nothing.

Dont drive like that no more as i am over that phase of driving like a loon on public roads.
Wow. That's not bad for such an old car. :)

[hondapop]

The first Honda I bought was CA sedan with the B20A DOHC 160hp engine (Vigour model in Japan but also sold in Europe as an Accord 2.0Si) that had hit a lamp post on the left front. Having repaired other cars by the cable around another post (shhhh!) and driving smartly backward method, I thought I could straighten the chassis on this one out. Fat chance! Didn't move a much more than a couple of mm.

A source for parts for yours as an alternative to Japan could be NZ. Hondas were popular imports in the 90's when the NZ Govt scrapped local car assembly and opened it up to used imports. Yours might even have been brought over from there, I saw a guy just a few months ago with a Gen3 Prelude at our local supermarket, it had the single cam engine in it.

[YOanthony]

The first Honda I bought was CA sedan with the B20A DOHC 160hp engine (Vigour model in Japan but also sold in Europe as an Accord 2.0Si) that had hit a lamp post on the left front. Having repaired other cars by the cable around another post (shhhh!) and driving smartly backward method, I thought I could straighten the chassis on this one out. Fat chance! Didn't move a much more than a couple of mm.
I was considering doing this for my CD Accord as the radiator support and a lot of the front has been severely bent by previous owners. My dad talked me out of it and said it wouldn't do anything.


A source for parts for yours as an alternative to Japan could be NZ. Hondas were popular imports in the 90's when the NZ Govt scrapped local car assembly and opened it up to used imports. Yours might even have been brought over from there, I saw a guy just a few months ago with a Gen3 Prelude at our local supermarket, it had the single cam engine in it.
Yeah, I have a found a few people who deal in JDM options in NZ and unfortunately they have never seen an Aerodeck in their country. (Which makes sense considering the Aerodeck was only ever sold in Europe and Japan). Unfortunately I have no friends in Japan, but I have come into contact with another Aerodeck owner who lives in Europe and he has agreed to help me look for parts, although he says chances are slim to find a wrecked Aerodeck. He hasn't seen on in months now. :/

[hondapop]

Yes the radiator supports are a weak point, unlike the side rails. I've straightened not too badly bent front frames with a 2mtr length of chain bolted to a handy bolt and wrapped around the head of a 14lb mallet. Because the h/light frames are so light they do buckle up badly. Whenever I go to Boss Wreckers in Brisbane, there's usually at least one Honda that's had that front panel cut off it.

I did fix up a CB Aerodeck (built in the US, imported by HondaAU) that had a bit of bonnet and front bumper damage, couldn't find another bumper anywhere (although it looked like the AUD version it was longer (stuck out more) and had different bump strip mouldings and indicators), so I managed to straighten most of the damage with a hot air gun and repaired the splits with aluminium plate riveted in and fibreglass.

When I had my CA hatch (carburetted)there were quite a few around, always was after a PGM-EFI model, but were either too far away, or was beaten to them. Haven't seen any CA's for quite a few years. Just a thought, your doors are probably the same as the hatchback, watch for rust in the roof above the "B" pillar, quite common on the H/backs.

[YOanthony]

Hey guys, here's a bit of an update.

I managed to scrape the crust off around the thermostat housing and put a new thermostat in.
I've bought replacement front pads and discs as well as ordered some rear drums and shoes earlier today.
I also bought some black caliper paint. I plan on painting the side of the discs and also the hats of the discs and drums so they don't rust.
Today my parking pole came in which I'm most pleased about. :) Pole, wiring, button and mount. I also made a short video of how it works.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hF2iAj1I--s

Apart from that nothing else has changed. I did do some minor cleaning around the block and thermostat area (getting a lot of the gunge off) but unfortunately I have plenty more left.
I also found some more rust. However, I'm so close to getting it registered, I can taste it! :D

[Jasemas]

That's so ****in kewl

[YOanthony]

Over the last week I have been tackling the brakes and I'm pretty much there. Only have to bleed the brakes and replace a few screws I may have shredded. :P

So I replaced the old discs, pads, shoes and drums and surprisingly ATP (who supplies our brakes at Repco) managed to sort me out in less than 5 minutes with the correct part numbers and parts. :) So I got them home, I painted the drums black (to ensure they wouldn't rust like the old ones), I also painted the hats on the discs and the sides of the discs (so they wouldn't rust). As I took off the old parts I also took the time to wire wheel off all the rust on the dust covers for the pads and the calipers. I painted them afterwards to make sure they wouldn't rust again. I also took advantage of everything being off and sanded and painted the rear dust cover of the discs so it blended a little nicer. Here are some pics. :) oh! and I also put some de-squeak paste on the brake pad dust cover just to make sure ;)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1/1932254_746365292048418_471572734_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1/1621771_746365305381750_766541184_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t1/998145_746365365381744_1879390282_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t1/1656375_746365392048408_2135772543_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1/1798752_746365415381739_96251420_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1/1743617_746365442048403_1320446141_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1/1014111_746365458715068_697887199_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t1/1958425_746365498715064_722595638_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t1/1901414_746365512048396_659857615_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t1/1902998_746365532048394_705681493_n.jpg

There's honestly not a whole much left to do. I was talking to a couple of managers at work and they say the amount of work I'm putting in is unnecessary to get it passed inspection, but I think it's better to do the work while the car is off the road, on jack stands, as opposed to my excitement taking over and never getting around to these small details. :) My goal is end of march, but with uni starting up this coming week I feel it may be closer to end of april. :(

[Jasemas]

yeah baby1

[YOanthony]

been a somewhat big week. I've started uni again so I'm pretty ****ed most days.
but I did manage to get new tires this week (nothing special, just some cheapies to get me through till I can afford some watanabes), I bled the brakes and they're pretty on point now, I took the aero off the stands and it's now sitting on the tires, put the bumper and latch back on, and today I got out there and washed it. In 7 hours all I managed to do was wash it, clay bar it and polish the hood. Little to say I'm unhappy with my effort and wish I had more time. I still need to polish all other parts of the car as well as apply a wax. However, it was probably best I'd stopped as all my towels were dirty and need to be washed.

The good news is, my bonnet is now pretty damn shiny! it looks amazing!
The bad news is, I started the car today. It seems to spike straight to 2,000-2,500rpm and just keep climbing and I really don't know why. It got to 3,000rpm in about 30 seconds and then I turned the car off. I turned the car back on to check if it would do it again, and it did. So I turned the car off and won't turn it on again just in case I'm causing damage somehow. Does anyone have any ideas ?

Also, here are photos of the bonnet. Need to do the roof soon too.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t1/10003364_753002661384681_888196673_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1/10001314_753018498049764_1806817184_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1/10011500_753018511383096_326958589_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/1521386_753018514716429_107058973_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t1/1904100_753018508049763_2051438998_n.jpg

I'm sorry my photos are so shitty. I had to take them with my phone as I broke my DSLR lens a few weeks back and haven't had the funds available to replace it. :/ Also, there's a little section on the front of the bonnet close to the driver's side. you can see it has not come up clear like the rest, I think it's too far gone to save it. It has a very leathery feel to it. anyway, that's all for now. I was hoping to have it booked into an exhaust shop and chassis repair shop by today, but hadn't had the time. I will finish cleaning it monday and perhaps book in too (as I'm working all weekend). I might drop the car off tuesday sometime which means in a week or two it will be registered. :) hooray!!!

[Jasemas]

Maybe you have a leak in your IACV/FITV valve?

[hondapop]

It's carbies Jas, so it probably doesn't have those. Look for splits/broken vacuum hoses (from what I remember of the carby A20A there's no end of them) have fun.

[hondapop]

Did you know that the last model CA (89) had a facelift including a return to fixed H/lites

http://img.favcars.com/honda/accord/photos_honda_accord_1989_1.jpg

[Jasemas]

It's carbies Jas, so it probably doesn't have those. Look for splits/broken vacuum hoses (from what I remember of the carby A20A there's no end of them) have fun.

Oh wow
That's new for me
Cheers :P

[YOanthony]

It's carbies Jas, so it probably doesn't have those. Look for splits/broken vacuum hoses (from what I remember of the carby A20A there's no end of them) have fun.
It may be that I've just left a hose off right ? I remember playing with some of the vacuum hoses earlier on in the peace, but I swear I put them all back on... I'll double check my work tonight. Thanks.


Did you know that the last model CA (89) had a facelift including a return to fixed H/lites

http://img.favcars.com/honda/accord/photos_honda_accord_1989_1.jpg

Actually, I did know this. And personally I think they're ugly ! I really prefer the pop-up headlights on these models. But I guess that's just me. :) I suppose Honda was trying to be innovative, and new by introducing these in preparation for the CB.

[hondapop]

The places the hoses most likely to split if you've pulled them off is right where the end of the pipe that they're pushed on to is. If they're originals, they all have numbers printed along the sides of the hoses. There should be a chart on the underside of the bonnet that shows them.

Don't know whether Honda still does this "last of model" facelift now but was standard practice in the 80's. I agree, not keen on it, it looks as though they had to lift the front of the bonnet and guards up to accommodate the fixed lights.

[Jasemas]

Pop up headlights were so 80's yo!
Retro

[YOanthony]

The places the hoses most likely to split if you've pulled them off is right where the end of the pipe that they're pushed on to is. If they're originals, they all have numbers printed along the sides of the hoses. There should be a chart on the underside of the bonnet that shows them.

Don't know whether Honda still does this "last of model" facelift now but was standard practice in the 80's. I agree, not keen on it, it looks as though they had to lift the front of the bonnet and guards up to accommodate the fixed lights.

Thanks for the info. I gave it a look earlier today and I couldn't find any splits (although I didn't exactly remember which ones I took off). I had a good look at most of them around the carbs and intake, but it was very hard to distinguish whether they were leaking.
I had another thought, that perhaps the butterfly that holds the acceleration wire could be stuck open ? Although I don't exactly see how this would make it accelerate... I've been at work all today and will be back again tomorrow and frankly I'm quite exhausted. So I apologise if I'm not making sense.

Oh? I didn't know that. I knew they did the facelift models after 2 years of having the original model released. But that's all.
Ya, I agree. Not a good luck for this type of vehicle. Pop-up ftw. :)

[Renaissance_x]

Pop ups for the win.

[YOanthony]

I have been working hard at uni lately and have had less and less time for the Aerodeck. But I temporarily fixed the idle problem. It was the cold start mechanism sticking shut, so I disabled it for now so I can register the vehicle and it seems to sit steady at about 600 - 700rpm :)

I also bought this parts book. Every single part number I could ever want + break downs of every component. It has already been worth the $50 I spent on it :)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t1.0-9/p180x540/10014600_759785884039692_442521117_n.jpg

https://scontent-b-hkg.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/t1.0-9/p180x540/10151232_759785900706357_540159349_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/p180x540/10014580_759785920706355_1351167206_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t1.0-9/p180x540/1509789_759785940706353_1142974562_n.jpg

https://scontent-b-hkg.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/p180x540/1920178_759785960706351_1713911875_n.jpg

I took the Aerodeck out for our first drive today too. Only around the block to test the brakes and to make sure it runs correctly. It is amazing, I am utterly and hopelessly in love with this car. It's smooth, the engine runs well, it's got a unique Japanese feel to it! It's just PERFECT! :D I cannot wait until I get it registered and use it as a daily!

I took advantage of it being out and took some photos!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t31.0-8/1932699_767656623252618_6360855629458651045_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31.0-8/1497959_767659489918998_8662443182226724335_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31.0-8/57450_767659573252323_6016602467902316035_o.jpg

https://scontent-a-hkg.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t31.0-8/1973314_767660596585554_3698337751333958084_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t31.0-8/10001272_767660966585517_1545694872209828266_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t31.0-8/10258392_767658759919071_8264195584285394681_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t31.0-8/1978486_767658483252432_3352928998480531502_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31.0-8/10257846_767659956585618_2987373172902427306_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31.0-8/10010407_767659156585698_781016011016830723_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/t31.0-8/1498049_767661046585509_7967652346408126266_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t31.0-8/10003588_767661973252083_4320927439885895017_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31.0-8/10259009_767661899918757_1111585673119220021_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t31.0-8/1890601_767662203252060_6321229958515663053_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31.0-8/10014871_767662139918733_4925618206041827039_o.jpg

I also took a short video of how the JDM digital climate control works. I couldn't find any videos of it online and found very few pictures of it so I thought I would post one. :) It's very cool!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvNOS4Zl2ng

I suppose that's all there is to update at the moment. :)

[hondapop]

That's a sexy bit of gear, does it actually cool? 'cause in a car of that age, most unusual. That book is a great find. Glad you found the idle problem, wonder if it's got similar carbs as the D15B's, might interchange if it needs a new one.
I just found the "H" monogrammed carpet mats that were in the JDM CA wreck I first bought, a Tan colour. Vacuumed them off today, will give them a clean tomorrow, just a minor bit of heel scuffing on the driver's side H, otherwise very good cond. Put them up for sale soon.

[Jasemas]

That's so ****ing kool man

[YOanthony]

That's a sexy bit of gear, does it actually cool? 'cause in a car of that age, most unusual. That book is a great find. Glad you found the idle problem, wonder if it's got similar carbs as the D15B's, might interchange if it needs a new one.
I just found the "H" monogrammed carpet mats that were in the JDM CA wreck I first bought, a Tan colour. Vacuumed them off today, will give them a clean tomorrow, just a minor bit of heel scuffing on the driver's side H, otherwise very good cond. Put them up for sale soon.
Yep, it all works as it should :) When I turn the temp up, it heats up, when I turn it down, it cools. I just need to get the aircon regassed :)
Mhm, I'm very happy with the book so far. :) It's helped to provide a good insight of certain jobs I've been doing as there is next to no information online about this engine :P

Oh nice, I've seen those carpets in pictures. :) If they were gray I would probably buy them from you :P Do you have any pictures? :) Post them, let's see!


That's so ****ing kool man
:D :D

[hondapop]

Oh nice, I've seen those carpets in pictures. :) If they were gray I would probably buy them from you :P Do you have any pictures? :) Post them, let's see!


:D :D

Weathers been a bit damp to give them a clean and get dry. Will be posting pics as soon as I can.

[Grayfox]

Does it have power steering?

If so watch out for the hose spilitting, mine split in the worst place of all.

Mine split in front of the exhaust manifold so there was smoke every where.

[YOanthony]

Does it have power steering?

If so watch out for the hose spilitting, mine split in the worst place of all.

Mine split in front of the exhaust manifold so there was smoke every where.
Okay, cheers for this info. :) I will check them when I get the car back.

[YOanthony]

After a lot of time on the phone today I found out that I cannot get insurance for this vehicle as it doesn't have a compliance 'exempt' sticker (something all imported vehicles needed to have). The reason it doesn't have one is because technically the Aero doesn't need one because it was made before 1989 which means it doesn't have to comply with the ADR (Australian Design Rules). BUT, South Australia overrides the rule with their own laws stating that cars made before 1985 don't need to comply. So I have to follow the SA law. Which means even though I don't need a sticker, apparently in SA I do... So insurance wont give me insurance for the car, but I can't drive the car without insurance. So after more time on the phone, I got an application for driving an unregistered vehicle which allows me to say "I'll be driving the vehicle from A, using roads 1, 2, 3 and 4 to get to B". It doesn't give me insurance for my car, or cover emergency crew levies in the case something happens... it just covers the other person's car.. which... was enough to get me to the chassis repair shop. :D So today I drove the Aero down to the chassis shop and the helpful owner said it should be done late next week or early the following the week. :) I must say, the drive was amazing. Very comfortable, I felt safe, I thoroughly enjoyed it. :D The shop owner's assistant also gave me a compliment and drooled for a little bit :D So win-win-win!

So after I get this done, I need to get a new muffler, and then it's off to our inspection agency for an ID check and a FULL roadworthy test (I am unhappy about this) to ensure my vehicle is up to standard with the ADRs so I can get that exempt sticker... :mad::mad: This is going to be a long and painful process... :( :(

[cbauto]

JDM > all

[Jasemas]

Ahh dan bro
Minor set backs for the big future of your baby
Make sure you recorded your kms so they don't go all happy and thrash your baby

[EKVTIR-T]

cant wait to see sum stance on this

[cbauto]

Pls

Don't stance.....

[YOanthony]

Ahh dan bro
Minor set backs for the big future of your baby
Make sure you recorded your kms so they don't go all happy and thrash your baby
haha I'm sure it'll be alright. These guys are actually some of the nicest guys I've met in SA. :) I'm sure it'll be fine.
but yes, a minor set back. :( Now I have to fix shit that doesn't work (like rear wiper, hazard lights, etc). But I suppose it's better I get it done now rather than put it off :P


cant wait to see sum stance on this


Pls

Don't stance.....
Actually guys, this is my plan:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1.0-9/1798863_739122262772721_1407184228_n.jpg

Watanabes. :3 http://otomoto.shop033.com/p/4158324/watanabe-f8f-type-16x70-35-wheel-black.html
Still deciding on brand of tire, but I want 195-50 :3

I'm pretty set on this since it looks so good on the above Aerodeck. :) Watanabes look so good on 80s era cars :D What do you guys think ?

[EKVTIR-T]

yessssssssssss x10000000

[Jasemas]

yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah bpoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooi

[mooshie]

Lol SA rego and roadworthy rules are ridiculous. The DA6 which has been regod in SA for 8 years before I got it and has a compliance plate needed a sticker which they sent in the mail as soon as we transferred ownership. No questions asked but a fairly obvious threat that if we don't put it on we will be in trouble. The DA5 however which I brought over last year, is a repaired vehicle with a new VIN, no compliance plate- they told me to put a piece of paper in the glovebox. Still no sticker or plate! Fkn joke.

Didn't have trouble getting 3rd party insurance on either of them though through Just Cars. Or were you trying to get comprehensive?

[YOanthony]

yessssssssssss x10000000


yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah bpoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooi
:D


Lol SA rego and roadworthy rules are ridiculous. The DA6 which has been regod in SA for 8 years before I got it and has a compliance plate needed a sticker which they sent in the mail as soon as we transferred ownership. No questions asked but a fairly obvious threat that if we don't put it on we will be in trouble. The DA5 however which I brought over last year, is a repaired vehicle with a new VIN, no compliance plate- they told me to put a piece of paper in the glovebox. Still no sticker or plate! Fkn joke.

Didn't have trouble getting 3rd party insurance on either of them though through Just Cars. Or were you trying to get comprehensive?
Yep, no disagreement from me. The Aero is perfectly fine according to NATIONAL law... God this state is stupid. I even noticed the difference in government workers. I called QLD Transport Department and the people who served me were extremely helpful, extremely friendly and one of them put me on hold for a few minutes and when she got back to me she couldn't stop apologising. I call ServiceSA and they pick up the phone like "what do you want?" -.-

Well, I got my mum to call RAA (as that's who we're with) to put the insurance in her name so that it would be cheaper. RAA said the only insurance they do for imports is full comprehensive. They said the insurance would be $516 per year (which aint too bad!) and they would insure for an agreed value of $6,000 I think it was ? But they said without the exempt sticker, they wouldn't touch the vehicle. Which was stupid!!!!! I could not get it through my head... NATIONAL laws say the car is fine, it has had an ADR check in the passed too! But STATE laws say it has to have a sticker. STUPID stupid laws.

[YOanthony]

Picked up a badge for the steering wheel. It'll sit where the 'H' badge is in this picture

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/p480x480/1510544_708476159170665_1539582704_n.jpg

So this is the new badge, the first picture is when it arrived and the second picture is of a quick clean up i did with some plastic polish and regular polish (but only by hand). Unfortunately it's quite tarnished and doesn't have a nice glossy film... it's more like leather. Any ideas on how to bring it back ?

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t1.0-9/p180x540/10250221_772822082736072_8058388236749758095_n.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/10011388_773323182685962_3972397342627949814_n_zps 95e671c6.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/10257806_773323149352632_5298236279453465569_n_zps 9a3d554a.jpg

[mooshie]

Oh. My. God.


That is so cool. Wish my car won car of the year

[YOanthony]

Oh. My. God.


That is so cool. Wish my car won car of the year
Thanks :D I knew I had to have it when I saw it!
Definitely a cool little extra :3

[YOanthony]

Hello guys it's been a while since I've given an update. Sorry about that. :/ I've started a new Facebook page I've been updating which made me a little slack to come back on OH. Here's the link if you want to check it out or give it a 'like': https://www.facebook.com/GaijinAerodeck
I've had a small change of direction since I last posted. I've found more rust which is a pain... and it's in the worst place of all, the hatch! I'm unsure as to whether it'll be repairable, but I am banking on the fact it will be. I plan to strip the car completely (engine, wiring, every nut, bolt and screw.. everything) and then get it completely resprayed. So pretty much starting with a straight, completely brand new paint and rust free car. :) I'm also looking at acquiring BNIB parts over second hand, however if I find something in second hand I'll generally pick it up regardless. Here's a list of what's been acquired since last time I updated.

BNIB Bosch Foglights $150USD w/o shipping:

https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10511321_818305028193775_4366584035352789880_n.jpg
https://scontent-b-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/66192_818305054860439_1900489185878373283_n.jpg?oh =62d274344d5024a77a1dbb73e1978bce&oe=54722787
https://scontent-b-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/1621839_818305078193770_2581199842484346504_n.jpg? oh=90e904fcbf79dafcafc2071a5df08a03&oe=545DF49D
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10563167_818305081527103_2956068058246959562_n.jpg ?oh=eefca3628e8fca8145cf2ae57f15f424&oe=545B8F79&__gda__=1415286693_12b11f40737d80798a597a723cff6be c
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10511250_818305021527109_6443843189579991371_n.jpg ?oh=65a56ece7ddcb9877303c8d44411f971&oe=547C3CF0&__gda__=1416352072_87a6532447d5d2bb78c6768bb79499e 5

Cool Aerodeck Brochure $10USD w/o shipping

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10501894_811089662248645_6397419433116153786_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10414879_811089672248644_8500618339139498755_n.jpg
https://scontent-b-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10524723_811089692248642_958288530783756657_n.jpg
https://scontent-b-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10478188_811089685581976_4488436865550599432_n.jpg ?oh=d0bdb26f49ff332dcdcb5fdd42499323&oe=546491A9
https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t1.0-9/10570379_811089878915290_3519367982720511920_n.jpg
https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10473068_811089875581957_7728456414212722154_n.jpg ?oh=c1d696568a2c4819330beb300ba87b4e&oe=5480980C

JDM PFM with chrome trim, button and control box $135 w/o shipping (I have PFM at the moment, however I am under the assumption they're seized, so I will just use the mirrors. It will be good to have a spare button and control box ... just in case)

https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t1.0-9/10553399_809691019055176_6902772286642436642_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10532368_809691029055175_8279706015547497844_n.jpg ?oh=56e867b1860e9f290a04f52984650e5b&oe=547E34B3&__gda__=1416159961_3a9838c1a9e41efdf3c574b04c0d55a 2
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10505577_809691045721840_5135113725740612583_n.jpg ?oh=20c8957a9cf97d993c1e40eea3589ac5&oe=546D6F33&__gda__=1415243403_97db41c7d2bbc133b56fc65fe9983eb 2
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/1969407_809691075721837_8315349127066747437_n.jpg

Accord brochure $9.60USD shipped

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/p417x417/10339560_808950869129191_362044925522363195_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10552531_808950862462525_8490759986963143616_n.jpg
https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10518975_808950885795856_7520384056787494237_n.jpg ?oh=108732df0eb07d436ac28921e44d00fa&oe=54792677

Replacement Aerodeck Manual $10USD w/o shipping (top old manual, bottom new manual)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10464206_806224716068473_6004353656710470858_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10336589_806224749401803_976379803614081980_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10410199_806224772735134_4487293475192378170_n.jpg ?oh=45c46eb2cab3ecbb4fc3f6ec586915f7&oe=54708D36&__gda__=1415753194_6d27ef830e86ca7230ad10b0d5d3275 6

[YOanthony]

Replacement driver's side tail light $10USD w/o shipping

https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/p180x540/10476505_806225259401752_8425409325942229779_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/p180x540/10518829_806225249401753_8764977070661195782_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/p180x540/10487420_806225256068419_7093505458479469699_n.jpg

BOSE speaker covers $50USD shipped
https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/q81/p180x540/10462951_799541766736768_5770588008258620513_n.jpg
https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/p180x540/10428656_799541773403434_7549827815197033355_n.jpg

BNIB Parking Pole $220 w/o shipping
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10346460_319664821545553_7246554341998185113_n.jpg


Here is the rust in the tailgate. I also found out why my rear wiper wasn't working... turns out for some reason (that I really cannot understand) they chopped the plug off at the motor ... so there's just 4 or 5 wires hanging about ... hmmm...

https://scontent-b-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/s720x720/10514643_808956442461967_8475139427713065117_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10494666_808956452461966_6236828254447644035_n.jpg ?oh=377825a2d3dbf782dc36db9ba5dbc192&oe=547E4164&__gda__=1415860717_1db9d0d849f8cdca5f521ecb8f3e8d7 6
https://scontent-b-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10380895_808956402461971_2399797809453445069_n.jpg ?oh=890c05234b5e528a5d1f4587dcb80da5&oe=5478A052
https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/q81/p180x540/10500424_808956475795297_3431374824405370662_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t1.0-9/q82/p180x540/10308551_808956489128629_4767783261928999611_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/s720x720/10525962_808956492461962_3832099694193494141_n.jpg

Repainted the rocker cover. This was before I had made the move to strip the car.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/p180x540/10473174_806869782670633_2768348965386468244_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/p480x480/10525380_806871149337163_7411386559067897502_n.jpg


I think that's about it. I am a little upset I won't be driving it anytime in the near future. However it will be well worth the wait to ensure all the rust is taken out and to start a fresh with awesome paint and some replaced parts. Pretty much I'm saying the paranoia will be removed of something falling off, of snapping, or breaking or rusting to pieces, etc etc.

Oh, I guess I should say this. I'm still unsure as to whether I'll do all this work and this register it, or register it and then do the work. I have a few things left on my check list to complete before it goes to get register. I guess it will depend on how I want to spend the money when I get to that point in time.

[Jasemas]

Holy **** man thats alot of collected parts
You sneaky man hahahah
By the way did you ever get the chassis fixed

[YOanthony]

Holy **** man thats alot of collected parts
You sneaky man hahahah
By the way did you ever get the chassis fixed

Actually ...

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/1488687_718448934840054_315463713_n_zps3032db1b.jp g

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/1511159_718449004840047_1652400437_n_zps1b035942.j pg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/10371987_805820462769567_201264277644726145_n_zps1 1ebae3c.jpg

Yes, I did. :)

[Jasemas]

Hell yeah man
While they were at it
Should of resprayed the whole under car

Oops
Should not of said that
Now you're gonna be paranoid about rust under there :P

[Grayfox]

This car makes me sad.

It reminds me of my 1987 CA accord Si sedan.

I miss her and her polar white body.
Yes, i still remember the color name of the car, NH512 that was the color code which i also remember.
I also had the master starter key.

[mooshie]

How much was the chassis fix if you don't mind me asking?

[Jasemas]

If im not mistaken was over $500

[YOanthony]

Hell yeah man
While they were at it
Should of resprayed the whole under car

Oops
Should not of said that
Now you're gonna be paranoid about rust under there :P
Yeah they should of. Oh well :)


This car makes me sad.

It reminds me of my 1987 CA accord Si sedan.

I miss her and her polar white body.
Yes, i still remember the color name of the car, NH512 that was the color code which i also remember.
I also had the master starter key.
Time to invest in another ?


How much was the chassis fix if you don't mind me asking?


If im not mistaken was over $500

Actually, it was $1,100 with an engineer's report. The work is top quality stuff. And the bloke had it done quite quickly.
I am not fussed about how much it cost. It gives me confidence that he did it right the first time.

[Grayfox]

Time to invest in another ?.

Not with the 11L/100km fuel economy and my $480/month repayments for my FK2

I still have the CAs master key which has a lot of sentimental value.

Dont know what my next car will be.

May not be a honda since they no longer offer manual on their cars unless you go to the povo spec.

[YOanthony]

These arrived in the mail today.

https://scontent-a-hkg.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/10584040_832076686816609_2793634082070750677_n.jpg ?oh=849d91906a3162ac8c3fdcdb6dbd2dfe&oe=5475237A

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/10644942_832076693483275_7088282216715294309_n.jpg ?oh=8ca1682375c580546f25a820897a11bb&oe=5461C231&__gda__=1416713839_3217d093634caaa3b4e03f8b31abc43 c

1x headlight washer button
1x air refiner button
2x washer nozzles from an EF

These set me back $200USD shipped. Not a bad deal I think considering no one parts out JUST the jets.

I currently have a friend in the UK who has gone and crashed one of his Aerodecks which had headlight washers so after he gets through with his insurance, he said he'd be keen to sell his washer bottle to me (which will have the spout for the headlight washers). However it's broken, so hopefully some small repairs can be made to fix it up.

I was also looking at twin pot front calipers on eBay and unfortunately there's only one seller, and he's asking like $165USD w/o shipping. So expensive. I was hoping to take them for $100 :/ I messaged him and he won't budge.

[YOanthony]

Hey, long time !
I've been in Europe ! But I'm back. Money is being poured into the Aerodeck now. My parents are looking for a new house (to build) and there just won't be enough room for 7 cars so my dad and I are (almost) being forced to sell one each. :/ So the purple Accord will go and I'll keep the Aero. However I have a year and a half before I need to sell the purple one.

As for the Aerodeck, today I got out and fixed up all the minor issues I was worried about before Regency. I fixed my hazard button - which turned out to be a blown fuse.. fml. I only replaced them quite recently too. I may have a short.
I also went to a wrecker and picked up an ED/EF hatch rear wiper loom. The old owner had cut the plug off mine. I got the loom (which mind you, had the original plug which was the same as the Aerodeck and 2 plugs for the rear demister) and soldered it to where the old loom had been cut and plugged it in. I had to extend one of the demister plugs so I soldered that and it all fit. The reason I got one with a demister is because the ones on the Aerodeck went missing when they cut the original male plug off. And that fixed the last problem too which was the demister not working. A great day with only $5 spent in total for the loom !

Now with everything up to my satisfaction I just need to replace the rusted muffler and I'll be good to go to Regency. Muffler is booked for 13/03 and Regency will be booked for 20/03. All going to plan I'll have it registered in 2 weeks and have it for the next SAHC meet and cruise !

I'm EXTREMELY excited ! I finally get to drive my dream car everyday and everywhere !!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/11038737_942273875790891_4256839697468119288_n.jpg ?oh=f6071ab35abe70c360740d369ea82b11&oe=5587876C&__gda__=1433485268_d05d79c7fb49f483be9e01eeeaeffec 2


Here's a vid on my Facebook page if you'd like to see the brilliance of interchangeable parts and a moment of clarity when my dad said to check the fuses.
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=940025966021680

[YOanthony]

Yesterday after a solid charge I started it up and it fired up after the first crank. It was like music to my ears. Idled beautiful at about 700-900rpm. (Here's a video of it living ! https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=940601615964115)
However there was quite a bit of smoke coming out of the extractors (of which I can only assume is oil). It burnt like it and smelled like it. I'm not worried as I started it again today and nothing came out. It must have burned off yesterday which is good :3

I also had a friend come over today and we tackled another problem (which I didn't really remember I had until yesterday). The problem was that out of the 3 washer nozzles on the car, only half of one was working. There was a blockage in the rear hose (luckily quite easy to get to and fix), the driver side nozzle wasn't even attached to anything and the passenger side was just blocked. I went to Repco and got some hose and a T piece and connected the front ones up. That's all working now. Quite beautifully I must say, however I think there's a leak as there was a puddle of water under the car after I'd finished playing. It makes me nervous but I'm hoping I'll get away with it through Regency and be able to fix it afterwards.
Although the rear squirts as well, there's a leak too. I had a small trim piece taken off around the area of the hatch and when I was squirting the rear nozzle, water was flowing out of this trim piece down the body on the interior. Some landed in the seats. I'm going to stuff a rag in there and keep my fingers crossed.

It may seem like I'm doing things dodgy (which I am) however it's time to get this registered. Believe me - I'll be fixing these issues. Immediately too. But for now, the inspection will give me a good indication as to whether there's anything I've missed or still need to do. I don't want to say I'm confident, but it's look promising and I'm very excited. :)

[Jasemas]

Maybe thats why the rear hatch has rusted through
because of that hose problem
Good stuff man!

[hondapop]

The rear window washers were/are the greatest roof and hatch door rust causes invented. I'm not looking forward to ever taking the head lining or rear trim out of my CRX. Not just because of the leaks from their hoses but from through their mounting holes.

2nd only to sunroofs.

[YOanthony]

Maybe thats why the rear hatch has rusted through
because of that hose problem
Good stuff man!


The rear window washers were/are the greatest roof and hatch door rust causes invented. I'm not looking forward to ever taking the head lining or rear trim out of my CRX. Not just because of the leaks from their hoses but from through their mounting holes.

2nd only to sunroofs.

Thanks for the votes of confidence <3 hahahaha

No no it's fine. My plan is to completely restore this car. I heard you can strip a car down to just the metal and have the chassis dipped in some sort of chemical that repels rust. You bet your ass I'll be getting it done so I no long have to worry about any rust issues.
I only keep my fingers crossed that it hasn't gotten to the point of no return :(

[hondapop]

Thanks for the votes of confidence <3 hahahaha

No no it's fine. My plan is to completely restore this car. I heard you can strip a car down to just the metal and have the chassis dipped in some sort of chemical that repels rust. You bet your ass I'll be getting it done so I no long have to worry about any rust issues.
I only keep my fingers crossed that it hasn't gotten to the point of no return :(

Worst that can happen is you'll have a nice clean colander for your lettuce.

[YOanthony]

Worst that can happen is you'll have a nice clean colander for your lettuce.

LOL
A fancy $800 Japanese colander too. I'll be the coolest kid on the block for sure !

[YOanthony]

Hey guys ! I bought a day permit to take the car down to get a muffler replaced today. It was awesome to drive it again. I'm so addicted. I'm completely head over heels !

Anyway, the muffler + labour only cost $100 which is awesome as I was originally quoted $200-$300.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/10428591_945280515490227_1450752679617678664_n_zps kha9lazq.jpg

The lad who did it told me he got this off a WRX. It's quiet as all hell but I'm sure it'll pass the inspection with no problem !

I do have an oil leak though. Quite a bit of smoke coming from the extractors... I'm struggling to get the shield off as it has a sensor or something attached. I can't figure out how to take it off, but I'll tackle it again this weekend.
I thought it was leftover oil or maybe I spilled some but it would have burned off by now as I start car everyday. It smells a lot too. I'm starting to think it may not pass. Even on short drives (10 mins or so) there is a bit of smoke coming out from the bonnet. Any ideas ?


Unrelated - taken this morning before getting to the exhaust shop :)

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/10420753_945204512164494_5167195306696931995_n_zps nvzcartw.jpg

I took some HD photos too but I haven't gone through and edited them yet. I'll post them up soon. :) They turned out pretty decent. The Aerodeck is quite photogenic.

That's all for now.

[hondapop]

Check the valve cover gasket along it's front edge, oil will run down onto the exhaust manifold from there. On your engine there will be a TDC sensor bolted on in front of the distributor. Both of those can leak ("O" rings) but normally will run down the end of the engine, not so much onto the exhaust. Probably have to remove the valve cover and if the gasket doesn't break or have splits/cracks in it, you will have to clean it and the head where it contacts, of oil/old sealant and reseal with gasket silicone. Getting a new gasket for that engine may be hard. There are also 4 flat gaskets that seal the spark plug tubes that will need looking at as well and resealing.

[hondapop]

The sensor you mentioned is a O2 (oxygen) sensor and IIRC it passes through a hole in the heat shield and is virtually impossible to get a spanner or deep socket on without removing the manifold itself, which just increases the difficulty of loosening it because being off the engine, there's nothing to lever against.

Just to relieve your mind, the oil leak isn't behind there, it'll be from above (as said above)

[YOanthony]

Check the valve cover gasket along it's front edge, oil will run down onto the exhaust manifold from there. On your engine there will be a TDC sensor bolted on in front of the distributor. Both of those can leak ("O" rings) but normally will run down the end of the engine, not so much onto the exhaust. Probably have to remove the valve cover and if the gasket doesn't break or have splits/cracks in it, you will have to clean it and the head where it contacts, of oil/old sealant and reseal with gasket silicone. Getting a new gasket for that engine may be hard. There are also 4 flat gaskets that seal the spark plug tubes that will need looking at as well and resealing.


The sensor you mentioned is a O2 (oxygen) sensor and IIRC it passes through a hole in the heat shield and is virtually impossible to get a spanner or deep socket on without removing the manifold itself, which just increases the difficulty of loosening it because being off the engine, there's nothing to lever against.

Just to relieve your mind, the oil leak isn't behind there, it'll be from above (as said above)

Thanks for the info. I have removed the valve cover before to try and get a new gasket for the valve cover and new seals for the spark plug tubes. I took it to a Honda dealer and even managed to find an Aerodeck parts book which gave them the part number. They did a nationwide search as well as sending the number back to their head office in Japan but the search returned nothing. So I used some sealant on the gasket and had to reuse the gasket unfortunately.

Thanks for the info on the sensor. I should have taken a video of the smoke yesterday and where it was coming from - my mistake. It definitely looked like it was originating from behind the shield. It's a shame I can't even get behind there to have a look just to satisfy my curiosity.
I do see moisture built up on the passenger side of the engine (I guess you'd say it's below/near the cams).

I'll see if I can't play around with it tonight. The sensor has a cord attached to it and you're right about the angle. It's a complete bitch however I'll give it a go with an open-ended spanner. I was just unsure as to whether it came out like that.

Honestly thanks again for the info. Engines are a bit foreign to me and I haven't really had any experience playing around with them before. This dual carby setup looks like a nightmare compared to the F22B1 I have in my other Accord too !

[hondapop]

There is definitely nowhere behind the manifold for oil to leak from, it will be coming from that cam-cover gasket, running down onto the manifold itself while the engine is standing, then creating smoke when you start up and it gets hot. The only thing you can do is use sealer, but, you'll need to wash every bit of old oil off it and the head surface for it to stick and reseal. I'm also guessing that the gasket has cracks and breaks in it. This is where it can get tricky. It's probably hardened and will break if you try to prise it out, but that may be your only recourse. You would then have to clean out the groove it fits into and the gasket itself of oil, then put sealer into the groove and press the gasket pieces back in, making sure the sealer gets between the broken ends. Then reapply the sealer to both faces before replacing the cover, gon'na be a bit messy.

I wouldn't try to get that sensor out without removing the engine or the radiator etc, because at this age and length of time it'll be stuck real tight. Haven't had any experience with the dual carb setups on these, but the dual choke single setups had an absolute plethora of small hoses (21 IIRC) and pipes attached for the anti-pollution system. PGM-FI is much simpler in that regard, although the type fitted back in the mid '80's had a lot also because they still used vacuum controls.

[hondapop]

A thought occurred to me Anthony, the B18A, B20A shared the same basic "architecture" as the B20A6 in the '88-91 B4 AUDM Preludes. It's gasket/s may fit. The engines aren't able to be interchanged because of external differences in alternator etc mountings.

As a last resort, try the B18A1 gasket. The cover is the same style, worth a try.

[YOanthony]

There is definitely nowhere behind the manifold for oil to leak from, it will be coming from that cam-cover gasket, running down onto the manifold itself while the engine is standing, then creating smoke when you start up and it gets hot. The only thing you can do is use sealer, but, you'll need to wash every bit of old oil off it and the head surface for it to stick and reseal. I'm also guessing that the gasket has cracks and breaks in it. This is where it can get tricky. It's probably hardened and will break if you try to prise it out, but that may be your only recourse. You would then have to clean out the groove it fits into and the gasket itself of oil, then put sealer into the groove and press the gasket pieces back in, making sure the sealer gets between the broken ends. Then reapply the sealer to both faces before replacing the cover, gon'na be a bit messy.

I wouldn't try to get that sensor out without removing the engine or the radiator etc, because at this age and length of time it'll be stuck real tight. Haven't had any experience with the dual carb setups on these, but the dual choke single setups had an absolute plethora of small hoses (21 IIRC) and pipes attached for the anti-pollution system. PGM-FI is much simpler in that regard, although the type fitted back in the mid '80's had a lot also because they still used vacuum controls.


A thought occurred to me Anthony, the B18A, B20A shared the same basic "architecture" as the B20A6 in the '88-91 B4 AUDM Preludes. It's gasket/s may fit. The engines aren't able to be interchanged because of external differences in alternator etc mountings.

As a last resort, try the B18A1 gasket. The cover is the same style, worth a try.

Thanks for the info once again. I'll let you know how it goes after work.
I've forgotten the layout of the B18A gasket but the B20A6 and B18A1 are good places to start. I'll see if I can't find one at a local shop (Repco, Autobahn, SCA, etc) as the ones online may take too long to arrive. Unfortunately for inspections they require down payment before you book... ugh. I wanted to book today but don't want arrive and have the car smelling like burnt oil and smoke seeping from the bonnet. Hmm... tough decision but I might get through the weekend and book on Monday. It's probably the safer option at this point as inspections are (or at least last time I went) $180.

[YOanthony]

Here are a couple HD photos I promised the other day. The Aero looks beautiful. I'm excited to start driving it daily and modifying it heavily.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3595editsmall_zpsrvavucdk.png

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3588editsmall_zpsjqahnd2v.png

[YOanthony]

A thought occurred to me Anthony, the B18A, B20A shared the same basic "architecture" as the B20A6 in the '88-91 B4 AUDM Preludes. It's gasket/s may fit. The engines aren't able to be interchanged because of external differences in alternator etc mountings.

As a last resort, try the B18A1 gasket. The cover is the same style, worth a try.

So. You sir, are a lifesaver :D
I bought a B20A6 gasket (which - thankfully came with the spark plug tube seals also!) and it's a direct match !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/11072933_948465361838409_370438675_n_zps9jvxwaju.j pg

The previous one (pictured above with the GreyMaxx on it above the rocker cover) was hard, and tough, and stale. The new one slotted right in, was soft and awesome ! I put a thick bead of GreyMaxx on there - just to be safe.

... embarrassingly when I was undoing the bolts for the cover I found one (which coincidentally was the bolt above the cam gears - ie, where the leak was) that was almost completely loose. -.-" Major facepalm!!
I had a look through the cams and saw a lot of fresh oil that had run out of the rocker cover and down the block. I'm about 99.5% confident that was my issue. However changing over the gasket and seals was a good thing to do tonight anyway. There's a small oil build up in the spark plug tubes but I'm sure it'll burn off and there won't be anymore deposits now that I have new seals.

I'm so confident I'll book regency tomorrow for Friday. I hate how I have to pay for the inspection over the phone straight up -.- wish I could pay there.

Anyway, I also got some Sika and perma-glued down the back hatch trim. Left it over night with some weights on there and it seems good today. Woohooo ! The last two weeks with this car have been so lucky and so easy. I'm kinda worried.






More updates to come !
Thanks again hondapop ! You are the best !

Edit: You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to hondapop again

[Jasemas]

Woohoo man good work
Whered you get the new gasket from?
Noob thing to do to leave the bolts loose :P
Good luck with regency tomorrow
Imsure itll all go well!!!

[hondapop]

That's very good news. Now take your plugs out and get some paper towel or cloth, twist/roll it up so you can get it down the plug tubes and give them a wipe out. clean the oil off the plugs or get some new ones, probably needs some anyway. Oil down the tubes, sitting around the plugs will continually vaporise and could cause mis-firing. Wash the ends of the plug connectors with petrol or turps to get rid of oil contamination as well, let them dry thoroughly before reconnecting.

[YOanthony]

Woohoo man good work
Whered you get the new gasket from?
Noob thing to do to leave the bolts loose :P
Good luck with regency tomorrow
Imsure itll all go well!!!

Where else would I get it from ? :P Repcoooooo
Regency is not tomorrow. I tried to book it today for Friday but unfortunately they said it's " first come first serve ". ugh, so if it's busy I may not even get inspected (which means I'll be waiting $56). They also said they dunno what the car requires until I get down there. They couldn't tell me whether it would be an ID check, full inspection... anything. UGHHHH. Typical SA govt. bullshit.

I've taken Friday off work so I'll definitely be going down. I'm going to organise the day pass tonight / tomorrow / thursday night so I can just get up early and go!
Thanks for the confidence. The car really isn't that bad. I'll do some final cleanliness stuff tonight (wipe off all the oil, ensure all bolts and screws are in their correct places, etc) and then it's in fates hands ! How excitingly scary !



That's very good news. Now take your plugs out and get some paper towel or cloth, twist/roll it up so you can get it down the plug tubes and give them a wipe out. clean the oil off the plugs or get some new ones, probably needs some anyway. Oil down the tubes, sitting around the plugs will continually vaporise and could cause mis-firing. Wash the ends of the plug connectors with petrol or turps to get rid of oil contamination as well, let them dry thoroughly before reconnecting.

Okay, I'll do that tonight. The oil won't just burn up on its own ?
TY again ! You've been a troubleshooting GOD

[hondapop]

The oil in the plug tubes eventually will reduce down to a tar like substance, but you don't want that coating everything.

[YOanthony]

~~ Forgot to mention. I went to the inspection center on Friday. Got there nice and early at opening at 8am as asked by the two people I spoke to on the phone earlier last week. Both said I could come down and get it inspected. Then the lady at the desk told me I had to first go to get an ID inspection because it's from a different state and then go to vehicle standards to get a list of what is required (ADRs) to pass inspection - which would be sent out by post and I'll get it a week or two. However I told her I was feeling confident and asked if I could go for an inspection. She said yes but to come back after the ID inspection.

I did the ID check, I passed. I rolled up and the guy was like "this is a weird looking car" and I laughed and thanked him. Then he said "I don't like weird" bahahaha :P
Then I went to vehicle standards and found that I was one ADR short. It was for side intrusion panels or something. So I drove to an engineer and it turns out I have the ADR but just needed the paper to say I have it and it complies. This piece of paper cost $350. I was outraged, but happily took it and left for my inspection. I got there and the lady said "sorry, you can't book a same day inspection. You can wait but you'll be behind 2 other people. It's extremely unlikely you will get in today"
Furiously I was about to flip all the lids but my dad walked in and calmed me down. After the 3 hours of jumping through hoops, I waited for another 5 before calling it quits. Booked for Monday which cost me $272 + $43 for an unregistered day pass.

Went in Monday. The car's temp gauge rose to 3/4 about 5 mins before arriving there (did about 20-30 mins of granny driving). I got there and some guy in the carpark pointed out my car was pissing out water. I got out and to check and 750ml had pooled around the wheels. I let it cool down and bought some cold water from a shop across he road and poured it in. Took it through inspection an hour later and passed by the skin of my teeth. The guy doing it said I have a rear brake line that looks like it's about to burst, a lower ball joint about to break and my tires (not my wheels) were sticking 10mm out the guard. But he took it for a drive and said it was one of the better cars he'd driven through his inspection career. So he gave me my exemption sticker and I am now officially registered !!!!!

TLDR; Car overheated, still passed. Woo ! Officially registered !

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/10867161_952931958058416_1707249223_n_zpsmq7ygoc9. jpg

I did however encounter another overheat when I got home. I got out of the car and the overflow bottle was BOILING. AGGRESSIVELY. It was shaking and you could hear it ! It was HOT ! It started leaking out of the seals and dropped another 750ml ! Anybody got an idea ?
Thermostat was replaced bout 100kms ago, no visible splits in hoses, no milky residue in the oil. Going to replace it with coolant tomorrow and hope it helps us with troubleshooting (as there's only water in there now - which when taken out is BROWN)

[cbauto]

das ittt

[hondapop]

Did you bleed the system of air when you replaced the thermostat? You could have a big air lock (bubble) stopping the flow of coolant. The bleeder nipple is situated on top of the extension that the thermostat is at the end of, directly below the distributor. It faces back towards the firewall and is looks like a 12mm nut with a short "spout" where a stud would otherwise be. Unscrew it completely and clear the small passageway in it's seat with a piece of 1.5mm wire. Do the same to the bleeder, including the little hole in the side at it's tip. Water should come out of the hole it screws into. Screw the bleeder back in, but leave it loose a turn. Take off the radiator filler cap and fill it up. Start the engine and watch for water coming out of the bleeder, run the engine at about 1500 RPM until no more air is coming out (continuous water stream). Top up the radiator as you go if necessary. Shut the bleeder off while water is flowing out of it. Give your car some more road testing. If this doesn't cure the problem, I would say you've either got a blocked radiator or the water pipe across the back of the engine, or the pump isn't working. Take off the top hose at the radiator and run the engine to test the pump. Water should flow out very freely. Stop the engine before you empty all the water. If all OK and the problem continues, it's the radiator or that back pipe. Always use the correct anti-corrosive coolant once it's fixed after a flush out.

[YOanthony]

Did you bleed the system of air when you replaced the thermostat? You could have a big air lock (bubble) stopping the flow of coolant. The bleeder nipple is situated on top of the extension that the thermostat is at the end of, directly below the distributor. It faces back towards the firewall and is looks like a 12mm nut with a short "spout" where a stud would otherwise be. Unscrew it completely and clear the small passageway in it's seat with a piece of 1.5mm wire. Do the same to the bleeder, including the little hole in the side at it's tip. Water should come out of the hole it screws into. Screw the bleeder back in, but leave it loose a turn. Take off the radiator filler cap and fill it up. Start the engine and watch for water coming out of the bleeder, run the engine at about 1500 RPM until no more air is coming out (continuous water stream). Top up the radiator as you go if necessary. Shut the bleeder off while water is flowing out of it. Give your car some more road testing. If this doesn't cure the problem, I would say you've either got a blocked radiator or the water pipe across the back of the engine, or the pump isn't working. Take off the top hose at the radiator and run the engine to test the pump. Water should flow out very freely. Stop the engine before you empty all the water. If all OK and the problem continues, it's the radiator or that back pipe. Always use the correct anti-corrosive coolant once it's fixed after a flush out.

I did not bleed the air when I did the thermostat.

Last night I bled the nipple and as soon as I cracked it I heard air expel out for about 5-10 seconds. You could hear it. I cleaned the nipple and where you put them nipple (as you said). The nipple was blocked. I then put the nipple back on and ran the car for a few seconds and had a constant stream of water come out. I tightened the nipple and that's it !

I hope this is the cause of the problem. Do you think I will need to do it again or once should be enough ?
I'll hold off from replacing the coolant for now until I can determine whether this has fixed my problem. It's interesting that this issue has never happened before. I drove the car to the inspection agency and did the exact same route twice before and had no symptoms. It ran like a champ... through peak hour too !

Thank you for your help :)

[hondapop]

I did not bleed the air when I did the thermostat.

Last night I bled the nipple and as soon as I cracked it I heard air expel out for about 5-10 seconds. You could hear it. I cleaned the nipple and where you put them nipple (as you said). The nipple was blocked. I then put the nipple back on and ran the car for a few seconds and had a constant stream of water come out. I tightened the nipple and that's it !

I hope this is the cause of the problem. Do you think I will need to do it again or once should be enough ?
I'll hold off from replacing the coolant for now until I can determine whether this has fixed my problem. It's interesting that this issue has never happened before. I drove the car to the inspection agency and did the exact same route twice before and had no symptoms. It ran like a champ... through peak hour too !

Thank you for your help :)

Bleeding needs to be done after any emptying of the coolant from the system. What I omitted to mention is that the engine needs to be brought up to sufficient temperature that the thermostat opens, so that coolant is actually able to flow and move any air-lock up to the bleeder's position. While it's closed, there's minimal coolant movement. To make this easier for myself (not absolutely necessary), I made up a little tool out of a 1/4" drive deep 12mm socket, which I drilled a 6mm hole in, attached to a 1/4" drive screwdriver handle, so I could keep this in place on the nipple while doing this.

Don't replace the coolant with an anti-corrosive one until you've made sure that it's not overheating. See how it goes for the moment, you may have got the air-lock out with that release you heard. Seeing there was rusty water came out before though, it will still need a good flush through anyway. It's a bit of a drawn out process if the coolant's been allowed to become contaminated, requiring removal of the radiator and flushing it and the block independently to do a good job, but make sure the engine is cool when you do it. Never put cold coolant or water directly into a hot engine.

[Jasemas]

Did you install the thermostat the right way?
Did you use a Dayco one?

[YOanthony]

Bleeding needs to be done after any emptying of the coolant from the system. What I omitted to mention is that the engine needs to be brought up to sufficient temperature that the thermostat opens, so that coolant is actually able to flow and move any air-lock up to the bleeder's position. While it's closed, there's minimal coolant movement. To make this easier for myself (not absolutely necessary), I made up a little tool out of a 1/4" drive deep 12mm socket, which I drilled a 6mm hole in, attached to a 1/4" drive screwdriver handle, so I could keep this in place on the nipple while doing this.

Don't replace the coolant with an anti-corrosive one until you've made sure that it's not overheating. See how it goes for the moment, you may have got the air-lock out with that release you heard. Seeing there was rusty water came out before though, it will still need a good flush through anyway. It's a bit of a drawn out process if the coolant's been allowed to become contaminated, requiring removal of the radiator and flushing it and the block independently to do a good job, but make sure the engine is cool when you do it. Never put cold coolant or water directly into a hot engine.

Thanks for the info. Luckily the system was warm (not hot - not cold).
I have not replaced anything yet. I will wait until I know the problem is fixed. :) I took it for a short drive up a hill behind my house today. It performed well and did not overheat. I will make longer drives here and there and see how it goes :)
I have not before - but why is it bad to put cold coolant or water into a hot engine ?

Thank you again for your help :)



Did you install the thermostat the right way?
Did you use a Dayco one?

Yeah a Dayco one. I installed it correctly :)

[YOanthony]

I got insured today and so I took the car out for a quick spurt up a hill behind my house. Handled well. I didn't push the engine. Looks great and I'm extremely obsessed with this car !! Here are a few pictures !

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/11081629_953842874633991_1085595486_n_zpsy6bxsieq. jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/11004421_953842077967404_172310891_n_zpstwrbwyl7.j pg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/11051196_953842117967400_1026456447_n_zpst4i3tnpm. jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/11081638_953842187967393_239613739_n_zpsutnkq4yf.j pg

[Jasemas]

Putting coolant or cold water into the engine while its hot
will warp the head :(

[hondapop]

Putting coolant or cold water into the engine while its hot
will warp the head :(

Into an engine that is at boiling point will most likely crack either the head or the block because of the sudden local shrinkage of the metal contacted by the cold water.

[YOanthony]

Okay, thank you. I'll make a note not to do it.

Even with the air drained from the thermostat housing it has still had another meltdown. Not as serious as I caught it early. No water has boiled out but it has still become quite ferocious.
What should my next plan of action be ?

Pic for attention :3 I've posted this one specifically because both of the CD5s in this picture have been lowered 3-5 inches each yet the Aerodeck roof is almost in line with them.. I won't be dumping it, but imagine if it was... wow..
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/1798881_954787434539535_349761361597541892_n_zpsnk a805v9.jpg

[cbauto]

change head gasket or

K swap

[hondapop]

Your car being lower than anything that came after is no surprise, even the small cars these days need a double decker bus license to drive (or a periscope to see above the dash).

Your cooling problems are unfortunate, but not to be unexpected at it's age. Can be hard to discover exactly why sometimes. We'll start with checking for a leaking/blown head gasket. Check the oil on your dipstick and under the oil filler cap for a milky white or brown frothy/sludgy consistency after running. Take all the plugs out and check for water droplets on the plugs and while they're out, crank the engine over to see if you can detect any water mist blowing out, wipe around the spark plug tubes with your finger to check for moisture. With the engine cool (NEVER remove the filler cap when hot), remove the cap and start the engine, fill to just below the filler neck and watch for bubbles in the water or water being blown out the filler in gushes as the thermostat opens. Get a compression test, or/and a cooling system leak down test.

Most usual place for blockages otherwise is the radiator, old hoses and that metal tube across the back of the engine. It's all a matter of a process of elimination. As an educated guess, I suspect your radiators stuffed.

[YOanthony]

Your car being lower than anything that came after is no surprise, even the small cars these days need a double decker bus license to drive (or a periscope to see above the dash).

Your cooling problems are unfortunate, but not to be unexpected at it's age. Can be hard to discover exactly why sometimes. We'll start with checking for a leaking/blown head gasket. Check the oil on your dipstick and under the oil filler cap for a milky white or brown frothy/sludgy consistency after running. Take all the plugs out and check for water droplets on the plugs and while they're out, crank the engine over to see if you can detect any water mist blowing out, wipe around the spark plug tubes with your finger to check for moisture. With the engine cool (NEVER remove the filler cap when hot), remove the cap and start the engine, fill to just below the filler neck and watch for bubbles in the water or water being blown out the filler in gushes as the thermostat opens. Get a compression test, or/and a cooling system leak down test.

Most usual place for blockages otherwise is the radiator, old hoses and that metal tube across the back of the engine. It's all a matter of a process of elimination. As an educated guess, I suspect your radiators stuffed.

Hahaha thank you mate. I'll give it a check when I get home. I'm 98% sure it's a negative on the milky residue. I checked multiple times following the first time it overheated.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed it's a clogged radiator - in which case I'll need to track one down. I think the sedan/hatch should be the same.

[YOanthony]

I don't suppose any of you know what this little white cylinder is on the B18A ?

https://scontent-nrt.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/p180x540/11164804_965091050181838_478441163363855173_n.jpg? oh=64d6503dfacd6372e16e32abb3336bc5&oe=55D449C6

https://scontent-nrt.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/p180x540/11018825_965091076848502_5133960720509605451_n.jpg ?oh=9c4bc9a7f1d4e0f68ba0f21cff0a71be&oe=55D0E71B

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/p180x540/1012957_965091103515166_4913979258935107303_n.jpg? oh=9acfe3b372844f7413d3b3befa6bfb7d&oe=55A1F02D&__gda__=1440174175_8e0cfb5a6de62e8f2db119c024ea14c e

It started making this odd noise yesterday when I started the car. Like it has something in there spinning once I let off the accelerator. I haven't taken it off and I have no idea what it is... so I thought I'd come and consult the holy bible :P

Here's a video of it making noise.

https://www.facebook.com/GaijinAerodeck/videos/965090233515253/

Please help :(

All I did yesterday was change the coolant and bleed the nipple on the thermostat housing.

[hondapop]

Haven't a clue unfortunately. Being a carby engine, maybe something to do with the antipollution system, they're certainly complex with hoses going everywhere compared to the FI, and they were bad enough back then. Don't recall anything like that on the A20A carby engines. It has a vacuum hose (hose #31), what else is it connected to? Is there a diagram sticker on the underside of the bonnet? Probably need a translator to read it if there is, bound to be in Japanese.

[YOanthony]

Haven't a clue unfortunately. Being a carby engine, maybe something to do with the antipollution system, they're certainly complex with hoses going everywhere compared to the FI, and they were bad enough back then. Don't recall anything like that on the A20A carby engines. It has a vacuum hose (hose #31), what else is it connected to? Is there a diagram sticker on the underside of the bonnet? Probably need a translator to read it if there is, bound to be in Japanese.

I have a Japanese parts manual that I'm sure will break down that entire carby section. I'm honestly just thinking I'll take it off and see what's in there. You're probably right, it could be unimportant however I'll check it out and report back. :)

[hondapop]

A thought occurred, that noise you can hear when you let off of the accelerator could be a vacuum leak which would be at it's highest when coming down from revs. You may have bumped one of those little hoses with your spanner when doing the coolant bleed. Being old hoses, one may have split, particularly where pushed onto a fitting. Wish I could say, just rip them all off and block them up, but because there are so many sensors etc connected to them doing god knows what, that's not possible.

[YOanthony]

A thought occurred, that noise you can hear when you let off of the accelerator could be a vacuum leak which would be at it's highest when coming down from revs. You may have bumped one of those little hoses with your spanner when doing the coolant bleed. Being old hoses, one may have split, particularly where pushed onto a fitting. Wish I could say, just rip them all off and block them up, but because there are so many sensors etc connected to them doing god knows what, that's not possible.

I would not disagree with this theory. I'll double check them when I start it next.

[YOanthony]

I was getting an alarm installed today and took advantage of the time and put in this badge a friend from NZ sent me aaaaaaaaaaaages ago. Looks good. Might take it off again and try clear coating it. Definitely needs it but I'm apprehensive as to whether it'll work.

28056
28057

[YOanthony]

So here's my problem. :( Any ideas ?
Part number is: 17340-ph2-003
It's a sealed unit and listed as a Shot Air Valve Assembly.

28062
28063

[YOanthony]

Never found out what the white cylinder did or does. My dad suggest I put it back on the car and see if it works. It worked and the noise slowly disappeared. I was surprised. He said it was probably just the temperamental nature of carbys.
Anyway, I have also changed the atf. The at slips hard between 2-3 and 3-4.

I've been driving the car a bit too. Very long drive yesterday which was good. I took some photos around various places in Adelaide and I posted them below. Tell me what you think :) It got a lot of attention and I had lots of people staring and turning their heads. I had a few people even come up and chat to me about it while I was taking pictures. An amazing day!!

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3840editsmall_zpsersycctx.png

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3858editsmall_zpsbewbpau5.png

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3872editsmall_zpsxdth4k5k.png

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3879editsmall_zpsdqgdz6iu.png

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3891editsmall_zps0slstcd2.png

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3894editsmall_zpsmnnku9tx.png

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3912editsmall_zpsnxefbllj.png

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3914editsmall_zpsopysjvig.png

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3924editsmall_zpsuhhby2zg.png

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3940editsmall_zpsieiqqlzy.png

[hondapop]

Some nice pics mate, good to see you enjoying it. So, the ATF change cured the slipping when changing? Unfortunately it's the only thing you can do to a Honda auto, no adjustments, don't think there's even a filter can be changed, never seen one or where you could get to one. Makes you wonder why an aftermarket in-line one in the cooling lines to the radiator has never been available. Sometimes the fluid change can do wonders.

Does your trans have the "lock-up" feature that the B20a versions had? The torque converter has an internal clutch, I believe, that engages above certain road speeds to provide a solid connection through the trans.
I was looking on this page at the gear ratio differences between the B18a and B20a automatics and the smaller engine was higher ratio/lower speed in 2, 3 and 4th stages, but with the same ratio diff and 1st.
http://www.hondaoldies.de/Korbmacher-Archiv/Honda/Mittelklasse/Accord/3rd/tdacc3wg.htm

[YOanthony]

Some nice pics mate, good to see you enjoying it. So, the ATF change cured the slipping when changing? Unfortunately it's the only thing you can do to a Honda auto, no adjustments, don't think there's even a filter can be changed, never seen one or where you could get to one. Makes you wonder why an aftermarket in-line one in the cooling lines to the radiator has never been available. Sometimes the fluid change can do wonders.

Does your trans have the "lock-up" feature that the B20a versions had? The torque converter has an internal clutch, I believe, that engages above certain road speeds to provide a solid connection through the trans.
I was looking on this page at the gear ratio differences between the B18a and B20a automatics and the smaller engine was higher ratio/lower speed in 2, 3 and 4th stages, but with the same ratio diff and 1st.
http://www.hondaoldies.de/Korbmacher-Archiv/Honda/Mittelklasse/Accord/3rd/tdacc3wg.htm

Thanks :)
The ATF change cured a minimal amount however it's still slipping when changing from 2 to 3 and 3 to 4. 1 to 2 is cured. I figure I have two options. Spend a gazillion dollars taking it to an automatics place where they can diagnose and perhaps fix the problem or I can just swap it to manual. We'll see how I go, I'm unsure as to whether any transmissions will be interchangeable tho.

[hondapop]

The problem with these motors/boxes, is that they sit at a different angle to any of the others, (more forward lean than say a Teg B18a1),except maybe the A20a's that were the norm here. Don't know if the bell housings match or if their trannys would fit etc. Finding an A20a now would be almost as hard. About the only other option is a full transplant to something later, but that would also require an EFI update as well, custom made mounts, etc, etc.

I've still got this B20a auto, hasn't been driven for a good few years and I only got to drive it round my back yard so it never got out of 2nd. Was always impressed that there was no delay in shifting from drive to reverse from a stop. Had 150000K on it. Courier cost would be the worst part.

[YOanthony]

The problem with these motors/boxes, is that they sit at a different angle to any of the others, (more forward lean than say a Teg B18a1),except maybe the A20a's that were the norm here. Don't know if the bell housings match or if their trannys would fit etc. Finding an A20a now would be almost as hard. About the only other option is a full transplant to something later, but that would also require an EFI update as well, custom made mounts, etc, etc.

I've still got this B20a auto, hasn't been driven for a good few years and I only got to drive it round my back yard so it never got out of 2nd. Was always impressed that there was no delay in shifting from drive to reverse from a stop. Had 150000K on it. Courier cost would be the worst part.

Is it the JDM b20a ? Those are quite rare aren't they ? Hmm... I wonder how hard it would be to upgrade. Obviously a full fuel delivery system swap would be in order - which I've heard sucks so many dicks. :(

[hondapop]

The car it came out of was most likely a Euro sedan luxury model because it didn't have the "Vigor" name across the back in a garnish between the tail lights (saw one of those in a wrecker). They were introduced there in '87, although the Vigor with B20a was in Japan since that model's inception. It was reputedly an '86 model (build date plate was missing unfortunately). From what I read on that German website, the Euro's came with fixed H/lights, but the JDM's had the pop-ups. This one had the pop-ups but as I said, no Vigor garnish. Maybe an early trial shipment. It never ceases to amaze me the plethora of models and short run models with every engine/trans/trim variation produced by Honda. Other makers have tried and it's sent them broke, but not Honda. Came across a JDM CRX EF7? with ZC DOHC automatic the other day, most of the auto's seen here are twin carb.

Upgrading from carby to EFI is not something to take on lightly. Fuel system has a return line, not sure if the pump can be fitted into the tank, then there's the wiring and ECU.

[YOanthony]

The car it came out of was most likely a Euro sedan luxury model because it didn't have the "Vigor" name across the back in a garnish between the tail lights (saw one of those in a wrecker). They were introduced there in '87, although the Vigor with B20a was in Japan since that model's inception. It was reputedly an '86 model (build date plate was missing unfortunately). From what I read on that German website, the Euro's came with fixed H/lights, but the JDM's had the pop-ups. This one had the pop-ups but as I said, no Vigor garnish. Maybe an early trial shipment. It never ceases to amaze me the plethora of models and short run models with every engine/trans/trim variation produced by Honda. Other makers have tried and it's sent them broke, but not Honda. Came across a JDM CRX EF7? with ZC DOHC automatic the other day, most of the auto's seen here are twin carb.

Upgrading from carby to EFI is not something to take on lightly. Fuel system has a return line, not sure if the pump can be fitted into the tank, then there's the wiring and ECU.

Hm. Odd. All euro Aerodecks have pop-ups. I have seen a few sedans with pop-ups too, but you're right - primarily fixed.

That's really odd. Maybe you're right. Who knows. Without papers I guess it's a complete mystery. Haha

Yes, you're right. I've even been given information by a chap in NZ who has both the B18A and B20A (they got both pop-up and fixed funnily enough. But how could they not given their import laws) and he's actually swapped the b20 head onto the b18a. he said it was remarkable difference but obviously because of the fuel delivery system change it really wasn't worth it. Especially since I was in Australia where we got the bottom run of everything :(

My friend has built an amazing carby late 80s ed. He has inspired me to build the b18a into a beast. hard work, but hopefully it'll all begin with the manual swap.

[hondapop]

In that article I was referring to it said the fixed lights were standard in Japan and only some special editions such as the Accord Vigor and your Aerodeck got the pop-ups (nick-named "bedroom eyes")

It did also say that a manual transmission for the B20a could be ordered. A B18a1 trans may fit, but as I mentioned the angle the engines and trans sit at in the bay are different, the B18a1 is more upright. The architecture of the a1 and all other later B series engines is different to the early ones, The heads are not interchangeable, neither are the manifolds.

You could possibly do a carby conversion onto an a1 or better, a B18b or B20b.

[YOanthony]

In that article I was referring to it said the fixed lights were standard in Japan and only some special editions such as the Accord Vigor and your Aerodeck got the pop-ups (nick-named "bedroom eyes")

It did also say that a manual transmission for the B20a could be ordered. A B18a1 trans may fit, but as I mentioned the angle the engines and trans sit at in the bay are different, the B18a1 is more upright. The architecture of the a1 and all other later B series engines is different to the early ones, The heads are not interchangeable, neither are the manifolds.

You could possibly do a carby conversion onto an a1 or better, a B18b or B20b.

Ehhh I will try my best with the engine I have. I'm reluctant to do the fuel delivery system conversion. It's a big job and one that is no required at the moment. The car runs well and with some final tune ups it will run better and the mods can start flowing in. :)

Speaking of which I had a bunch of stickers recreated today - the original ACCORD AERODECK sticker for the back an a "Let's Lock Up" written in Japanese for the doors. They were originally on there but I can see they've been torn off. :'(

I got 3 ACCORD AERODECK stickers but I messed the first one up and put it on crooked. :( The second one (pictured) looks much neater and is only out by less than half a mm. The one on the door looks crooked but it's just the way I took the picture. :3

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/11101145_987637687921176_1480045053_n_zps1mdogmtf. jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/11291884_987637691254509_898414772_n_zpsfpachji5.j pg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/11292803_987637671254511_184062005_n_zpsnn3hfjn4.j pg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/11358797_987637657921179_1359692117_n_zpsmvoj2vrn. jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/11303710_987637667921178_703973251_n_zpscvniuytv.j pg

[Jasemas]

Oooooh yeah
Got tha chair sittin there mirin that work!

[YOanthony]

Heyo been a while. Here's some pics :)

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28498
28499

I also managed to pick these up :)
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Super rare JDM auto-cover fogights. Never seen them before ? Here's a video of the same ones but branded for the teg.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIWmgKeEMJw

[YOanthony]

And the biggest update !!! This came in yesterday !
28502

The JDM digi-dash. Quite possibly the hardest thing to get for this car. :D I managed to test it last night; check it out !!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2pDoK7t_p0

[Dxs]

s2k like

[hondapop]

Not my cup o' tea. Give me dials with needles everytime, have hated digital dash displays ever since the one in the XF Falcon I had. Nothing like the swing around the dial of the Tacho needle. If anything says high performance vehicle, that does. And when you're cruising down the highway @ 100-110Kph (mustn't say more, not allowed), you're not bothered by the constant 100,101,99,98,102,101,103 etc etc changing of the display. A nice coffee table (or bar top) conversation piece, but leave out of the car.

[YOanthony]

s2k like
Probs where the inspiration for the S2K cluster came from :)


Not my cup o' tea. Give me dials with needles everytime, have hated digital dash displays ever since the one in the XF Falcon I had. Nothing like the swing around the dial of the Tacho needle. If anything says high performance vehicle, that does. And when you're cruising down the highway @ 100-110Kph (mustn't say more, not allowed), you're not bothered by the constant 100,101,99,98,102,101,103 etc etc changing of the display. A nice coffee table (or bar top) conversation piece, but leave out of the car.
Blasphemy !!!!!
>:(

[YOanthony]

Hey so it's been a while. I got the dash in and working. It's amazing when I go out driving, however I get distracted easily as it's so awesome to watch. :3

Last week I ordered a new radiator off of eBay for $95 shipped. It's a copper core with plastic tanks and two row (as opposed to the older radiator which was only single row). I was going to get one through work but they wanted $400 or something ludacris for a single row. This was definitely the issue (or the major issue) for the overheating. You could scrape out gunk on your finger in the old one :/

28941

After throwing a few swear words around we eventually got it and I took it for a test drive. I drove it for 2 straight hours from Unley to Marion to Bridgewater and then to Lofty. The temp gauge didn't budge ! It was awesome. :) I know it's not fully hectic but we got it up to 130 on the freeway which I thought was an achievement given I'd never had it over 3 figures prior to this day :)

28942

28944

It's very dusty though as it's just been sitting. I've been doing little jobs on it throughout the week too. For some reason the digital climate control never worked properly after I did the digi-dash swap. It used to spew out hot air even if the climate control was off. When I put it on 18 it still came out hot... so I spent a couple of hours under the dash just looking at plugs and noticed I missed two - one of them being the plug for the heater core bypass or something. After I plugged it in everything was fixed. I'm so glad I didn't have to take off the dash again :P

28943

The power folding mirrors that came with the Aerodeck were seized and so a little while ago I bought new ones from someone in America. I tested them prior to yesterday and found I only needed to swap some plugs. I went to put them on only to find the mounting face that held them onto the door was different. I imagine it's because the sedan doors differ to the wagon. I pulled it apart and found I could use the body from the good mirrors that worked with the mounting face of the old mirror. So I got those hooked up and working too.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7La0WXy0yss

I've never had PFM before so I'm pretty happy to have them on. :) Everything is shaping up... I'd love my next buy to be Webers given all of the "accessory and aesthetic" mods are sorta done. (Apart from a spray and Watanabes) Stay tuned.

[hondapop]

Strange that the doors would be different between Accord 2 doors, especially at the front A pillar. May mean the windscreen is different too. I could understand the B pillar end being different because of the roof line being straighter. I know for instance the Gen1 Teg's whole body has no interchangeable panels with the Accord even though they are similar size. The chassis of course is Civic based. Honda must be one of the only makers to be able to have so many un-alike models and still make money.

[YOanthony]

Strange that the doors would be different between Accord 2 doors, especially at the front A pillar. May mean the windscreen is different too. I could understand the B pillar end being different because of the roof line being straighter. I know for instance the Gen1 Teg's whole body has no interchangeable panels with the Accord even though they are similar size. The chassis of course is Civic based. Honda must be one of the only makers to be able to have so many un-alike models and still make money.


Agreed. I thought the same about the doors. One night I was scrolling through Yahoo Japan Auctions when an Aerodeck door and Sedan door ad popped up next to each other and I saw the difference. I couldn't believe it. It kind of sucks as my door is rusted out a little bit near the mirrors. It means I'd need to find an entire door and have it shipped over if I ever want to replace it. What a hassle !
Wow really ? You're not wrong. I wish a lot of it was plug'n'play (even with earlier/later/different models) but I guess that would take the fun out of having something so unique ;)

[YOanthony]

Been a while... not sure where to start. Things were going well with the car last year. I bought a new radio which I thought matched the era of the car a lot more (plus it worked as opposed to the other shitty one !) This one was off Yahoo Japan Auctions... I had to buy an fm band extender to make it work with Australian frequencies and a new harness. Got it in eventually and it's pretty damn cool. It's got some wicked equilisers ! Pioneer Model MEH-P9000CD

30069

30070

Continued to the drive the car for another 3 months and even chucked it on the rollers for shits and giggles !

30071


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zg6fMB7PZE8

It kept going for a bit longer. I drove it daily in stop start traffic for 2-3 hours a day with no worries for another month or so.

30072

I honestly couldn't get enough of the car and then my grandpa brought around an Easter gift (Easter of 2016). Genuine Minilites... 15x7 +25 all round with 215/65. Pretty wicked gift... my vision was always Watanabes and I think these will do just right !

30073

I went get some new tyres and ended up with Potenza RE003, 195/60 but they still looked like balloons. The guy chucked 195/50 but I guess with the 4x4 height my mind played tricks and I didn't think it looked quite right. The wheels themselves sit out about 1"-1.5".

30074

Then the week after the trans decided to spit the dummy and I was forced to garage the Aerodeck.
As you guys know the engine was in pretty bad shape anyway... I was actually surprised it made it as far as it did.

It had been almost a year since I last drove it and it'd been killing me ever since. Well... the wait is over. Street Level Tuning, some local lads here in Adelaide who specalise in building proper street Hondas are going to help me bring the Aerodeck back to life. Manual transmission, new engine, and... our friends below: 45 DCOE Webers.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/_20_zps7gstnjkh.png

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/_20%202_zpss7k4q1n1.png

These Webers set me back $500 for the pair from someone off Gumtree. We bought a donor Integra with a manual B18A1 we'll be using for the swap.

It's quite literally nothing special but it has super good internals. It also means I don't need to go through vehicle inspection when changing the engine number for registration as it's the same capacity and fuel management system as it was originally registered as.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/17006342_10154571755787672_11657813_n_zpsbubglyss. jpg

The boys cleaned up the Webers while we sent the engine off to the machine shop. Check out this before and after !

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/17571738_10154652004332672_1470953078_o_zpszmcfqh6 v.jpg

Here are a couple more pictures of this porn.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/17495669_10154652004422672_1133322261_n_zpswc1xjtd 3.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/17549005_10154654022027672_1410963435_o_zpsedvi8k1 g.jpg

New pistons look pretty damn sexy too.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/17457984_10154654197342672_7378789269197025612_n_z pskfvcmtew.jpg

Then the engine came back from the machine shop. Wowzers !!!

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/17554844_1472660319418908_2010974563_n_zpstdqjtwqn .jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/17619189_1472712752746998_161620633_n_zpsxxok1zlo. jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/17671382_1472660149418925_1853216916_n_zpssa4qqfqk .jpg

The head too.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/17619787_1472660239418916_1884071729_n_zpswovjxcar .jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/17555136_1472712642747009_143754133_n_zpsckvyomvc. jpg

We're getting so damn close to go time. I took the car down last week (scary drive... note to self: old cars don't like sitting for so long and then suddenly be driven)
However, I love the 80s appeal this car is now taking. The use of neutral colours, and I love the wheels... I knew I would, but the test fit made me weary.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3889_zpshtwv24wk.png

SLT got the rocker cover painted too... wrinkle black... so ****ing nice.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3893_zps6hjqa5lp.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3894_zpsi3akynrr.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/IMG_3892_zps2rspc7hb.jpg

We started taking the engine out and cleaning the bay too. Lots and lots of little rust spots became apparent after all of the gunge was gone. Cause for a respray, nothing special. Maybe a satin black just to cover the rust spots and provide a clean, simple look.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/17855630_1498828570141414_8706467029871417491_o_zp sa4zxdggq.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/17834029_1498828546808083_8128535852223927159_o_zp s8fxds4ci.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f144/Anton2436/17758590_1498828526808085_2388943963544939120_o_zp spb6q7jyd.jpg

There's more rust but for the sake of being sexy I won't include them.

This is all I can update on now. Sorry I've been silent. There's so much more to come ! I don't want to spoil any surprises, so sit tight and subscribe because you're about to see some serious shit !

[Jasemas]

Yoooo

[RenzokukenJ]

Yo Anthony

Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk

[YOanthony]

Yoooo


Yo Anthony

Yooooo guys :cool:

[Dxs]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6FYbO-W0-c

[hondapop]

'Nuff of the yo yo'ing already, making me feel queasy watching the page bounce up and down. So, a B18a1 eh. Investigate the possibility of B18B2 pistons to see if they have a higher crown. The compression ratio was raised on that later version.

[YOanthony]

Hi. Been a while. Looks like this forum is dead. Have an update, anyway.

https://www.3geez.com/forum/attachments/newbie-introductions/8262d1494238958-calabek-1987-accord-aerodeck-lxr-s-18386550_1518956504789289_531947903_n-jpg

https://www.3geez.com/forum/attachments/newbie-introductions/8235d1493367467-calabek-1987-accord-aerodeck-lxr-s-18197330_10154744214242672_1036386127_n-jpg

https://www.3geez.com/forum/attachments/newbie-introductions/8249d1493888553-calabek-1987-accord-aerodeck-lxr-s-img_4511-jpg

https://www.3geez.com/forum/attachments/newbie-introductions/8250d1493888658-calabek-1987-accord-aerodeck-lxr-s-img_4503-jpg

https://www.3geez.com/forum/attachments/newbie-introductions/8291d1495443049-calabek-1987-accord-aerodeck-lxr-s-img_5250-jpg

https://www.3geez.com/forum/attachments/newbie-introductions/8981d1534253409-calabek-1987-accord-aerodeck-lxr-s-img_8979-jpg

https://www.3geez.com/forum/attachments/newbie-introductions/8982d1534253449-calabek-1987-accord-aerodeck-lxr-s-img_8920-jpg

https://www.3geez.com/forum/attachments/newbie-introductions/8983d1534253617-calabek-1987-accord-aerodeck-lxr-s-img_8970-jpg

https://www.3geez.com/forum/attachments/newbie-introductions/8988d1534417678-calabek-1987-accord-aerodeck-lxr-s-39278382_2038923059465293_5348935747699212288_o-jpg

https://www.3geez.com/forum/attachments/newbie-introductions/9011d1535457893-calabek-1987-accord-aerodeck-lxr-s-40164264_2057856574238608_5787642179966992384_o-jpg


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v20l1KFvmAI

I won't include the pics, but we stripped the roof and bonnet and have begun repainting it.

Almost on the road. Woohoo!

[mlracing]

Nice, can definitely get around the carb setup !

[Richard B]

What a project! Hadn't seen this thread before.

[Renaissance_x]

damn!