View Full Version : JDM B18C Swap won't start up
Monetz
27-01-2014, 06:40 PM
hey guy i got a little problem with my eg B18c swap
first i took this engine out of my dc2 is still running working fine and than i replace new timing belt and toda flywheel, than drop this in my eg hook da wire up and than try to start it up the engine cranks healthy but won't start it up!!!!!!!!!! u guy have any idea what wrong????
mocchi
27-01-2014, 07:20 PM
any cel?
compression test?
test for sparks?
fuel primes?
EKVTIR-T
27-01-2014, 07:29 PM
PM mocchi
dorikin
27-01-2014, 07:30 PM
What ECU
Monetz
27-01-2014, 08:04 PM
any cel?
compression test?
test for sparks?
fuel primes?
haven't test compression test
Monetz
27-01-2014, 08:04 PM
what ecu
jdm p73
ECU-MAN
28-01-2014, 10:58 AM
does the ECU self test ?
how did you wire it up, convertion harness or replace ECU connectors ?
Monetz
28-01-2014, 09:37 PM
does the ECU self test ?
how did you wire it up, convertion harness or replace ECU connectors ?
got rywire obd1 to obd2 convertion harness and the ecu and engine is working fine before i took this off.
ECU-MAN
28-01-2014, 10:11 PM
does the ECU self test, will the MIL come on and go out when you put the key to POS II ?
Monetz
29-01-2014, 10:12 AM
does the ECU self test, will the MIL come on and go out when you put the key to POS II ?
YES they on
ECU-MAN
29-01-2014, 11:55 AM
specificly the Engine lamp does it come on and go out.
please answer that actual question
help us help you
Monetz
29-01-2014, 10:39 PM
specificly the Engine lamp does it come on and go out.
please answer that actual question
help us help you
sorry bro actually i'm doing dc2 dash conversion aswell by using dc2 fuse box dc2r under dash harness and i did wire this proper way don't really know how to rewire!! so cluster won't work yet
ECU-MAN
29-01-2014, 11:24 PM
I suspect your problem is in the dash wiring, you may have missed an important ground point.
richie6lt
31-01-2014, 04:26 PM
did u put the dc2r immobilizer in your eg ?
ECU-MAN
31-01-2014, 09:09 PM
if its true JDM it will not have the Immo module in the ECU and the dash wiring
Monetz
31-01-2014, 09:34 PM
did u put the dc2r immobilizer in your eg ?
nope i don't think this ecu have immobilizer
richie6lt
31-01-2014, 09:48 PM
Every obd-2 b series ecu has a immobilizer built in to it which matches the key , so you either have to use the same barrel and key to match the ecu, or, pull the immobilizer chip out of the ecu(which will cause and engine light), or, you can buy bypass chips, which deletes the ecu immobilizer and doesn't cause an engine light....
ECU-MAN
31-01-2014, 09:50 PM
Every obd-2 b series ecu has a immobilizer built in to it which matches the key , so you either have to use the same barrel and key to match the ecu, or, pull the immobilizer chip out of the ecu(which will cause and engine light), or, you can buy bypass chips, which deletes the ecu immobilizer and doesn't cause an engine light....
JDM DC2R does not have the Immobiliser, also you do not need the bypass module for this ECU, there is a simple bypass method that can be done.
AUDM ECU will have the Immobiliser.
Monetz
31-01-2014, 10:44 PM
Every obd-2 b series ecu has a immobilizer built in to it which matches the key , so you either have to use the same barrel and key to match the ecu, or, pull the immobilizer chip out of the ecu(which will cause and engine light), or, you can buy bypass chips, which deletes the ecu immobilizer and doesn't cause an engine light....
Thank you ECU-MAN JDM DC2R does not have the Immobiliser, also you do not need the bypass module for this ECU, there is a simple bypass method that can be done.
AUDM ECU will have the Immobiliser.
but i'm using AUDM barrel and key will i need Immobiliser in ecu?
ECU-MAN
01-02-2014, 08:12 AM
No
the Immobiliser in the ECU stops the injectors from firing, the immobiliser module in the cabin loom stops the engine from crancking, since you use JDM loom you wont have it.
do yourself a favour and open the ECU and check for that board to be 100% sure its not your problem. (IMMO-A0)
Monetz
03-02-2014, 10:27 AM
any cel?
compression test?
test for sparks?
fuel primes?
hey bro just got a compression tester kits of ebay
1cyl 121 psi
2cyl 119 psi
3cyl 110 psi
4cyl 120 psi
look like very lows compression, is this got anything to do when i replace new timing belt, toda flywheel and head valve rocket seal anything wrong?
mocchi
03-02-2014, 05:00 PM
very low yea but should start.
you need to check for fuel and spark now
EKVTIR-T
03-02-2014, 05:05 PM
those items wont change the compressions
wow its very low readings,seems like well worn engine
rings probably gone from hard life
dorikin
03-02-2014, 05:49 PM
if you're testing on a cold engine you're going to get very low readings like that
test spark, fuel
mocchi
03-02-2014, 05:57 PM
not that low dorikin. with good rings its only like 5psi less
Monetz
03-02-2014, 09:41 PM
if you're testing on a cold engine you're going to get very low readings like that
test spark, fuel
yes i testing this with cold engine + engine been sitting about 4-5 month since i been take this of dc2
those items wont change the compressions
wow its very low readings,seems like well worn engine
rings probably gone from hard life
engine only done 8x,xxx bro and i was testing on cold start plus my last worm this engine about 4-5 month or more!
very low yea but should start.
you need to check for fuel and spark now
the fuel is running great and spark only less than 2000kms old.
ECU-MAN
04-02-2014, 07:58 AM
Test for spark and fuel does not mean is fuel flowing in the rail and are your spark plugs new, it means, are the injectors firing and spraying fuel into the port, are you getting spark at the plug itself and in the correct firing order..
You should consider completing the wiring and wire up the cluster so you can see what the engine lamp is doing, putting the ECU into diagnostic mode may help you find the issue.
Monetz
08-02-2014, 05:45 PM
Test for spark and fuel does not mean is fuel flowing in the rail and are your spark plugs new, it means, are the injectors firing and spraying fuel into the port, are you getting spark at the plug itself and in the correct firing order..
You should consider completing the wiring and wire up the cluster so you can see what the engine lamp is doing, putting the ECU into diagnostic mode may help you find the issue.
the engine light and battery light come on when i turn the key on, is cranking but won't start
Monetz
09-02-2014, 01:25 AM
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/1832/ulbg.jpg
ECU-MAN
09-02-2014, 05:44 PM
does the engine light go out after 3 seconds ?
take a photo of the inside of your ECU for me and post it here
MRJDM
09-02-2014, 09:41 PM
The low compression may be due to fuel wash on the cylinder walls.( over cranking with no spark but injectors still firing fuel) Easy way to check this is oil seems.thinner than usuall or smelling like fuel.
Quick way to fix this problem is disconect injectors Remove spark plugs and add a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder this should seal the rings again. Put plugs back in and crank engine.
Most importantly find out why you have no spark if
you dont
Monetz
09-02-2014, 09:50 PM
yer when i start is gone for 3-4 second watch in video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpkxTNRIWOE&feature=youtu.be
http://youtu.be/HpkxTNRIWOE
http://imageshack.com/a/img690/5874/ffhm.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img823/3978/16a3.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img534/760/eh6b.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img543/6842/lkdo.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img32/4748/j16q.jpg
Monetz
09-02-2014, 10:04 PM
The low compression may be due to fuel wash on the cylinder walls.( over cranking with no spark but injectors still firing fuel) Easy way to check this is oil seems.thinner than usuall or smelling like fuel.
Quick way to fix this problem is disconect injectors Remove spark plugs and add a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder this should seal the rings again. Put plugs back in and crank engine.
Most importantly find out why you have no spark if
you dont
like try them later,i got low compression because i haven't been start this for 4 month plus with a cold test.
ECU-MAN
10-02-2014, 10:28 AM
take a photo of the inside of your ECU for me and post it here
Monetz
10-02-2014, 11:09 PM
http://imageshack.com/a/img36/1428/bv4w.jpg
ECU-MAN
11-02-2014, 07:49 AM
ok so there is no immobiliser
you need to test
1. fuel pressure
2. injector pulse
3. spark
Monetz
15-02-2014, 05:56 PM
ok so there is no immobiliser
you need to test
1. fuel pressure
2. injector pulse
3. spark
i check it still won't start up
1. fuel pressure working
2. injector pulse how to check it?
3. spark working
ECU-MAN
15-02-2014, 10:59 PM
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?68110-DIY-PGMFI-Diagnostics-Code-16-Fuel-Injectors
see Pulse Width Test or Duty Test
Monetz
15-02-2014, 11:25 PM
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?68110-DIY-PGMFI-Diagnostics-Code-16-Fuel-Injectors
see Pulse Width Test or Duty Test
i check today all 4 of them 10 ohms but check it again tomorrow
ECU-MAN
16-02-2014, 12:44 PM
The important test was Duty and Pusle Width test, Resistance test will not tell you why its not starting.
Monetz
16-02-2014, 03:40 PM
fu** finally i found the problem that can't start the car, that is because of i use dc2r steering column and
ign barrel key set from AUDM DC2R!!!!!!!!!! need to rewiring ign blown plug yellow/black/white to the fuse box THANK YOU FOR HELP EVERYONE.
GaryProtune
07-10-2016, 09:15 PM
So did you just send power to the yellow black and white wires?
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